DIY stone mold. DIY silicone molds for artificial stone are a simple solution for complex finishing. Making stone from gypsum in the simplest way

You can view all stamps for concrete and plasters, new items and much more in our online store Cheap and cheerful.To go to the store, click on the image below.

Polyurethane w tamps for concrete , top concrete, gypsum plasters - this is new on the marketCIS countries, including Russia, Ukraine and Belarus . Concrete stamping technology these countries It’s just gaining momentum and many companies are asking unreasonably high prices for their products….
Our stamps for concreteand plasters Made from high-strength two-component Duramould polyurethane ET 45A made in England, calculated for stamping on both plaster and concrete plasters And have a service life at least 3-5 years.

for concrete and plaster
Click here

Application of our elastic polyurethane provides stampshigh qualityprinting on concrete, gypsum and cement plasters, adhesives and putties, both on vertical and horizontal surfaces!

The forms meet all the necessary requirements:

• resistance to alkaline solutions;
• resistance to abrasive wear;
• elasticity
• high tear resistance;
• unlimited number of work cycles

We have developed up to a dozen texture options for the proposed surfaces, but we are not going to stop there, stay tuned for new updates!!!

New

Professional polyurethane stamp"Catherine's Stone"for top concrete. Size 59 x 45 cm.

To view the full catalog of stamps
for concrete and plaster
Click here

The online store has moved

Decorative concrete technology

Decorative concrete technology is decorative finishing both vertical and horizontal surfaces indoors or outdoors with a concrete or adhesive mixture (containing plasticizers, such as Flex, Elastik), on which are printed with polyurethane stampsfor concrete and plastersprojections of stones, blocks or bricks, imitation natural stone or brick. Decorative stamped concrete is used to decorate the facades of houses (which is much cheaper than gluing natural stone or covering with bricks), bases, columns, stairs, fences, fireplaces, windows and doors. Options for stone relief, painting colors are selected according to the customer’s wishes, better paintability concrete mixture based white cement. More details about the technology of decorative finishing of concrete using stampingstamps for concrete and plastersread the pagesOh:
with your own hands.
and fireplaces with stamps for concrete and plaster.
with your own hands.

Top concrete technology

Top concrete - this is technology monolithic filling concrete surfaces with stamped on itstamps for concrete texture of stone or tile painted in any color. Such slabs have the appearance of antique pavement or European paving stones, while maintaining physical properties concrete (durability, strength, wear resistance). Use of impregnations deep penetration, no seams except deformation (which prevents water penetration and grass germination), on long years protects top concrete from destruction when it is possible to use concrete with increased loads.
This is written in detail on the following pages:
with your own hands.
acid dyes.

Stamping on plasters

Embossing, printing or stampingpolyurethane stamps for concrete and plastersused in the decorative finishing of indoor walls using gypsum plasters or putties. Decorative finishing of surfaces using the method of stamping on gypsum plaster in appearance is no different from gypsum decorative stone laid on the wall, but you don’t have to buy artificial stone and glue it to the wall, which means the cost of materials is reduced; final result will be the same, just achieved in a different way. AND gypsum plasters, and putties, and concrete or adhesive mixtures painted subsequently (or not painted, if you like the color of unpainted plaster or concrete) with water-soluble pigments using a spray, or with a brush, but the quality of painting will be worse, then they are opened with matte varnish, which strengthens the stone and prevents the colors from fading.
Read more about stamping on plasters on the page:
— decorative finishing of vertical surfaces.

Stamp for concrete and plaster “Sabina”.
Polyurethane stamp for plaster 30 x 30 cm.

New

The online store has moved

To view the full catalog of stamps
for concrete and plaster
Click here

Painting stamped surfaces

Painting vertical and horizontal stamped surfaces is largely creative process with individual color scheme each object, since each surface, thanks to the uniqueness of the relief and composition of the plaster, also acquires a unique color
with many shades of the same dye,

since plasters absorb paint differently, unevenly, which causes this effect.
You can make a dye for concrete or plasters with your own hands based on coloring pigments for water-based paints; despite its cheap cost, in action it shows itself no worse than the famous translucent Western water-based analogue Stone Essence , which is an environmentally friendly alternative to acid-based stains for concrete. You can also use the latter.
Read about painting stamped surfaces on the following pages:
Stamp for plaster - the article describes the painting of plasters based on gypsum binders.
Painting decorative concrete
Coloring concrete with acid dyes

To view the full catalog of stamps
for concrete and plaster
Click here

Stamp for concrete and plaster"Stone Flower", d Mold diameter 40 cm.

The online store has moved

Having purchased our polyurethane stamp for concrete , you can finish it off not only garden paths, entrance to the garage, terrace, blind areas near the house, and the floor on the balcony, porch (using top-concrete technology).
Decorative printed or stamped concreteusing concrete stampsfinishing and vertical concrete, brick surfaces: house facade, basement, stairs, fences, door and window openings, barbecues and fireplaces, bar counters (art concrete technology). It is also possible to create or decorate waterfalls, rocks, and various landscape objects that will be no different from natural ones, except that you won’t have to buy wild stone per kilogram.

View all stamps for concrete and plasters
in the online store
Cheap and cheerful

Stamping decorative concrete and plaster master class

stamps for decorative concrete

The online store has moved, information on payment and delivery can be found here

see also

I thought I wouldn’t write an article about making molds, since I didn’t plan to do this. But stone is not bought as often as we would like, so we decided to make molds for sale. And there is one good reason for this: people search the Internet for both stone and shapes. And if a person wants to make a stone himself, then he will buy them and make them, but he will buy them from others, so we did not miss such a source of additional income, especially since no one in our city sells molds. So, today we’ll talk about how to make a high-quality mold for artificial decorative stone with your own hands. We will do it using silicone compound as an example, there will be a lot of photographs and a lot useful information, which few people will tell you about.

Matrix production

If anyone doesn’t know what a matrix is, it’s the entire “structure” into which silicone or polyurethane is poured. For the matrix you will need a piece of laminated chipboard and bars about 2 by 2 cm. I found chipboard in the trash, someone will say “ugh,” but I’m not scared, I drove up in a car and loaded it into the trunk and that’s it, and it’s free. Instead of bars, I used parts from the cabinet (they were also lying around in the trash), they are varnished and are great for making a mold: the silicone will separate better from them.

I took a ready-made polyurethane mold as a basis, but decided to make the sides thicker, since silicone has several times less strength than polyurethane and can tear when bent.

Polyurethane mold

Gap 1 cm

I want you to pay attention to how to join the “bars”. You need to try to make sure that there are no gaps between them and the chipboard. If you are unable to do this due to lack of good materials, then when screwing the bars to the chipboard, the connection can be coated with ordinary silicone, otherwise the compound will leak out.

Joint without gaps

For production we will need:

1. Silicone compound;
2. Catalyst (comes with compound);
3. Lubrication.

Set of mold model =)

I used BC-M wax release agent. Instead, you can use regular Vaseline; before use, you need to warm it up a little and spread it over the master models with a brush, but more on that later.

So, there is formwork on which you need to glue the master models.

Formwork

The next step is gluing the tiles to the chipboard, but first I want to tell you how to prepare these same tiles.

Preparation of master models

Before making the mold, you need to think about how much area you want it to be and count the number of tiles. In my case, the form has an area of ​​0.25 square meters. meters in which there are 24 tiles. You need to choose the highest quality tiles for the mold: without “sinks” or pimples.

Bumps on the master model

The quality of the mold will depend on which master models are used and how they are secured. It is necessary to secure them, otherwise when pouring the compound they may move, as happened with us the first time.

As you can see, some sides are thick and others are thin. This is due to the fact that the tiles were not glued to the matrix

I also advise you to look at the back side of the tiles, because... it may be slightly curved.

Curved backside decorative stone

If you neglect this and fill it in as it is, then the compound will flow into these cracks and you will then suffer from removing the finished form from the matrix, and then you will also have to trim the sides, and this is extra work.

Gluing master models

In order to glue the master models evenly and make all the sides the same, I decided to make markings directly on the chipboard.

Marking

Now you need to glue the tiles to the chipboard, for this we take a regular silicone sealant(the cheapest) and apply it to the edges of the tiles, as shown in the photo.

Apply silicone sealant

Glue it.

Gluing tiles

As you can see, the silicone has come out on the sides and needs to be removed. I scraped it off with a regular screwdriver. It turned out like this.

We do the same with the remaining tiles.

Our matrix is ​​ready!

Now you need to give the silicone time to dry. Then we take the lubricant and apply it to the surface in 2 layers with an interval of 1-2 minutes. Lubrication is needed so that the mold can be easily removed after drying.

As I wrote above, you can use regular Vaseline; before use, you need to warm it up so that it spreads better. I haven't tried this, but I've seen a few videos of it being used.

We wait until the lubricant dries a little. Then we set our matrix by level.

Filling with compound

Very frequently asked question: how to calculate the amount of silicone or polyurethane per matrix? This means we take the finished matrix with glued tiles and fill it with dry plaster. Then we pour the plaster into a container, put it on the scales and measure the weight. For example, you got 3 kilograms, it turns out that you will need the same amount of compound. Of course, this is not a very accurate method, but I don’t know any other way, if anyone knows, write in the comments.

From the article you will learn how to save on “stone” finishing by producing artificial stone at home.

About artificial finishing stone Almost everything has been said. Where to buy, how to choose, what is the difference. All that's left to do is take the money out of your pocket and buy it. However, in practice, its price turns out to be quite significant for an owner with average income, who compensates for the lack of funds with his work and love for the house.

In the article “Interior made from artificial stone, made by yourself,” we talked about how to prepare a mixture for decorative gypsum stone. In this article we will talk about how to make this finishing material for your own needs as cheaply as possible. The mixture for the production of decorative stone can be purchased ready-made or made on site by mixing the components. But where can I get the form?

The simplest answer is to buy. A variety of offers await you in specialized stores. The cost of one silicone mold with an area of ​​0.24 m2 starts from 1200 rubles. a piece. You can make the treasured mold yourself and this will provide the following advantages:

1. Savings on purchasing uniforms. You will only pay for raw materials, which is several times cheaper.
2. Individual design product. You will be able to choose a stone that suits you perfectly, rather than choosing from a wide but similar assortment. It is possible to produce with any design - letters, logos, monograms.
3. A skill for life. Having mastered the production of simple forms, you can develop this skill and apply it in other areas (cooking, sculpture).
4. Spin off. The molds, the production of which we will describe, are designed for 1000 pours. Such a product will last a long time and will allow you to produce many times more product than is necessary for your own needs.

What types of artificial stone are there?

The form (matrix) is plastic flat container with a bottom in the form of the required relief, divided into elements according to the design. The material for their manufacture is used depending on the raw materials with which they are supposed to be filled. Typically, three materials are used.

Silicone

Properties:

1. Very soft, elastic and durable.
2. It is prepared by mixing two components - a liquid solution based on silicon dioxide and an acid hardener in strict proportions.
3. Violation of proportions leads to a change in the properties of the material.
4. The technology involves removing air bubbles using a vacuum (vacuum machine).

Application area. There are several types of silicone. Liquider grades are used for theatrical makeup, medicine, jewelry, and highly detailed casting. Thicker ones - for molds for paraffin, concrete, plaster. Widely used in the food industry as baking, freezing, etc.

Polyurethane

Properties:

1. Elastic and durable, harder and more durable than silicone.
2. Resistant to chemicals.
3. The quality of texture transfer to the matrix is ​​not inferior to silicone.
4. It is prepared from two components in simple proportions. The first component is a modified polymer - polyol. It also contains dissolved additives and additives that have corrective properties in solid state. The second (hardener) is MDI (methyl diphenyl diisocyanate).
5. Forming and hardening take place at room conditions, air bubbles are removed by heating ( construction hairdryer) without vacuum.

Application area. Low hardness - decorative elements, buildings, medical equipment. Medium hardness - molds for plaster, concrete, resins, casings. High rigidity - furniture, car parts, rollers, technical gaskets and other industrial products. Widely used in factory environments.

Plastic

Rigid shapes with a thin wall, repeating the contours of the product. Insensitive to chemicals. They are made from polyurethane in the factory by hot casting and pressing using special equipment. Mainly used for production paving slabs by vibration shrinkage method. Out of competition.

So, a superficial review is enough to decide on the material of the future form. Plastic is eliminated due to the lack of factory equipment. We choose polyurethane for several reasons:

1. Universal application. The same polyurethane mold will allow casting from plaster and cement mortar.
2. Easy to prepare. Proportions of 1:1, 2:1 or 1.5:1 avoid errors, while silicone requires from 2% to 6% depending on conditions.
3. No vacuum treatment required.
4. The price is several times lower.

Dependence of the price of silicone and polyurethane on the brand and area of ​​application:

* - materials for industrial needs (except decorative) are sold in system lots from 40 to 400 kg

We make a matrix for decorative stone with our own hands

The whole procedure boils down to holding liquid material V in the required form until it hardens. In other words, we will create a form for the matrix. Polyurethane and silicone use the same operating principle.

What you will need:

1. An even flat table measuring at least 1x1 m, standing in indoors at room temperature.
2. Smooth varnished (ideally laminated) plywood or chipboard the size of the future form plus its own thickness (of plywood) on each edge. The 50 mm sides are attached to the bottom and to each other with confirmations. In other words, you need a box for pouring into which the master model will stand.
3. Elements of the master model (stones, even and smooth on one side).
4. Universal PVA glue or superglue.
5. Construction hairdryer.

What is a master model and how to make it

This is the original relief from which the impression will be taken. And there are two options here.

Option one. Large individual elements. They can have a round natural or rectangular hewn shape - it doesn’t matter. The limits for reasonable thickness of the finished product range from 10–50 mm for gypsum and 10–30 mm for concrete and mortar. Do not forget that the finished tiles will have to be glued to the wall. The stone should be flat on one side. Anything is suitable for the form - from marl to granite.

Operating procedure:

1. We try on the stones on the form board. We lay them out so that there is at least 15–20 mm between them and between the stone and the wall.
2. We outline the stones with a marker.
3. We install the elements according to the markings, applying universal glue to the flat side.
4. The gaps between the board and jagged edges fill with acrylic sealant.

Attention! This must be done very carefully and remove any remaining glue and sealant from the mold.

The master model with large elements is ready.

Option two. Small elements grouped in unsystematic masonry. In terms of terms, this is called a “pile”. To get a cast in this form, we first need to create this form. This is painstaking work. Here you will need to make a small box according to the dimensions of the model with sides of 20 mm.

Operating procedure:

1. We select the elements of the pile - real strips of sandstone with natural edges.
2. We cut along the length on one side so that the width of the strip from the cut to the natural edge is from 20 to 30 mm.
3. We assemble the pile by gluing the strips together. The gaps between them should not exceed 5 mm.
4. When the box is filled, we place technical paraffin on the resulting relief and melt it with a construction hairdryer.
5. Heated paraffin flows through the cracks and fills bottom part master models. This is necessary so that liquid polyurethane does not fill this place. Then it will simply be impossible to get the model out of it.
6. After the paraffin has hardened, we disassemble the small box.
7. Carefully remove the model, transfer it to a large box (with 50 mm sides) and place it on glue.
8. We seal the gaps between the stones and the plane.

From this point on, the procedure is identical for both options.

1. We install the 50 mm sides on the confirmats using sealant.
2. Key moment. Lubricate the formwork and stone with a release agent - clean machine oil.

Attention! Lubrication with a release agent is carried out several times until the pores of the stone are filled. Otherwise, liquid polyurethane will take up space in the pores and this can lead to rapid wear of the mold and complications during operation.

1. We set the form level in planes.
2. We prepare the polyurethane mixture in strict accordance with the instructions.
3. Fill the formwork with the composition. It is allowed to lay an alkali-resistant mesh to strengthen the bottom of the flexible matrix.
4. After the time specified in the instructions, we disassemble the box and carefully separate the frozen silicone from the master model. We remove the sagging.

Despite the obvious simplicity of the technology, it also requires skill. To begin with, we recommend practicing simple forms small size - sawn bricks, tiles, ready-made decorative rock.

Vitaly Dolbinov, rmnt.ru

Cladding material has always played a leading role in shaping the overall aesthetic perception of building facades, design solution interiors of civil and residential premises.

Among different materials Special attention paid to facing tiles made of natural stone. The extraction and processing of natural raw materials from marble, granite, quartz and other volcanic rocks is reflected in the high cost of cladding. Silicone forms For artificial stone solve this problem.

Artificial stone is made using silicone or wooden molds

Cheaper artificial stone that imitates the structure natural mineral, can be manufactured as industrially, and at home. To produce homemade tiles, matrices made of silicone, polyurethane and wood are used.

Artificial stone is a material obtained by pouring liquid gypsum or cement mortar into a special formwork (matrix). After a certain time, the finished frozen tile is removed from the matrix. How should a mold for artificial stone be made with your own hands?

Molds for the production of artificial stone must be durable structures. Matrices must have abrasive resistance and immunity to aggressive chemicals as part of binder mixtures.

Cells for pouring are made in such a way that they have clear separation boundaries between themselves and along the perimeter of the formwork. The depth of the poured mortar must correspond to the desired thickness of the tile.

After pouring, all excess solution is removed using wide spatula. If possible, the entire poured surface is covered with corrugated glass. This is done in order to obtain a relief back surface of the cladding. Such tiles are most reliably and firmly glued to vertical planes.

Decorative stone is usually cast with a thickness of no more than 10 mm.

Making a matrix for decorative stone

Do-it-yourself molds for artificial stone come in three types:

• silicone matrices;
• polyurethane molds;
• wooden formwork.

Comparative characteristics of species

Silicone matrices

Silicone is a universal synthetic material obtained by dissolving quartz powder in nitric acid. Silicone is non-toxic and resistant to alkalis and acids. Products made from it are elastic, durable and durable in use.

A mold for artificial stone made of silicone can be purchased at a construction supermarket. Products may not always meet the buyer's tastes. Along with these products, in the store you can purchase a set of chemical reagents for making your own stone mold.

You can learn how to make a silicone mold for the production of artificial stone from numerous sources of information. We will give an example of manufacturing a silicone matrix to obtain artificial facing stone.

To begin with, buy ready-made facing tiles from natural or artificial material. Then they make box formwork from wooden planks or chipboard sheets and MDF.

The area of ​​the bottom of the formwork is calculated so as to place the maximum number of tiles with gaps between them and the formwork of at least 10 - 15 mm in size.

The entire internal surface of the formwork and tiles is covered with release agent. If this product is not available, then use mineral machine oil.

Under no circumstances should waste oils or other chemicals be used. Such lubrication can lead to defects inner surface matrices.

Work order

Following strictly according to the instructions, liquid silicone is mixed with a hardener in certain proportions. The molding mixture is poured into the prepared formwork.

Despite some advice that the finished matrix can be removed from the formwork within 8 hours after pouring, we recommend doing this after 24 hours.

The sample mold for making artificial stone should be removed with caution. Sudden movements can damage the matrix structure.

There are recommendations on how to make a silicone mixture yourself using liquid glass. Without basic knowledge of chemistry and experience in creating chemical compounds This type of work is not worth taking on. As a result of wasted effort, you can end up with low quality material.

All initial components and dyes for silicone are purchased from the retail chain.

The finished matrix is ​​removed from the formwork and turned over, cutting off excess sagging. Then they lay it on a previously prepared horizontal surface.

Various irregularities in the depth of the relief of the future stone facade are painted with dyes of different colors. Then paint the entire surface in those places where the tile facades will be filled with mortar.

The resulting artificial stone will have a painted surface that is as similar as possible to the natural material.

Polyurethane molds

Polyurethane is a two-component polymer. The original liquids are sold in two containers of equal volume. The attached instructions indicate in what proportions the components are mixed to obtain a matrix for decorative stone with the required flexibility.

The mold for artificial stone is made of gypsum and made soft. Polyurethane molds for tiles from cement mixture made more rigid. Products made from gypsum are very fragile, therefore, in order to safely remove the finished tiles, polyurethane molds are made very elastic. Detailed description Watch the process in this video:

The technology for producing polyurethane matrices is, in principle, no different from the method for producing silicone molds.

As practice has shown, polyurethane molds made at home can withstand up to 2000 pours.

Wooden formwork

The cheapest and simplest way to make molds for artificial stones with your own hands is to install wooden formwork.

On wooden tabletop or a sheet of chipboard or MDF is secured to a frame of vertical boards.

Inside, on the resulting plane, slats are fixed, which form cells the right size. The slats are the dividers between the tiles. In such a matrix, decorative stone is obtained with a flat facade surface.

Although it must be admitted that some craftsmen apply relief patterns in the wood of the matrix using carpentry tools. For more information about the process of making artificial stone, watch this video:

The main thing is not to forget about lubrication wooden formwork before each fill. Otherwise, you can ruin the next batch of decorative stone.

Making your own cladding will bring great satisfaction from the results obtained and, ultimately, save money.

Many of us consider artificial stone to be a new material, however, it has been known to people since time immemorial. Ordinary clay brick, cement, gypsum and lime mortar are varieties of artificial stone.

The popularity of this material began to grow after new polymer compositions and forms that allow it to be used for interior decoration and landscape design.

In particular, artificial stone can be used to make tiles for cladding walls and floors, steps and other elements of stairs.

It is used to make countertops, decorative stucco molding and sculptural compositions, borders and paving slabs.

In terms of strength and durability, some types of artificial stone are not inferior to natural stone, surpassing it in ease of processing and ease of finishing. This material can be made into very thin tiles, which reduces its weight and reduces cost. For natural stone, such a thickness is unattainable due to its high fragility.

Without giving in natural material By color scheme and the variety of surface textures, it is more profitable to use artificial stone for several reasons:

• it can be immediately made perfectly smooth, which eliminates expensive sawing, grinding and polishing operations;
• there is no need to transport it, since this material can be made with your own hands at the place of use;
• the amount of waste is minimal, since there are no losses for transportation and processing;
• except rectangular shape it can be made figured or shaped, which allows you to finish surfaces exactly in place without additional adjustment.

Types of artificial stone

When considering the question of what artificial stone is made from, it is not difficult to choose a technology acceptable for use at home.

Depending on the raw materials and methods of processing, artificial stone is divided into the following types:

— Ceramic (tiles) – the manufacturing process requires the creation high temperature for firing raw materials and turning them into a monolithic conglomerate.

— Plaster (cast). It can be done at home. The costs of raw materials and production are minimal, however, such a stone is only suitable for interior decoration, because it is not resistant to frost.

— Concrete molded. The cost of production is more expensive than gypsum, since the resource of molds for casting concrete is less. Suitable for self-made. Frost-resistant.

— Free-formed reinforced concrete. This artificial stone is made piece by piece, usually at the site of use (artificial cobblestones, boulders, slabs).

— Hot-curing polyester. According to its mechanical and decorative characteristics superior to some types of natural stone, but hardening of the synthetic compound occurs only in a vacuum at elevated temperatures. It is not suitable for home production.

— Cast acrylic stone cold hardening. Suitable for homemade. IN temperature range from +175 to 210 it is thermoplastic, therefore it allows additional molding after casting.

How to make artificial stone with your own hands?

This requires two basic components: mold and casting mixture. Home technology production of artificial stone can be implemented as at the factory polyurethane form, and on homemade silicone. It all depends on the total footage of the finishing and the budget allocated for this work.

The polyurethane matrix is ​​quite expensive, but it allows you to make several hundred high-quality impressions. Silicone mold is more suitable for small-piece stone production and home sculptural crafts. Its resource usually does not exceed 20-30 castings.

For making your own silicone molds a set of natural stone or tiles is laid out on a horizontal, stable and flat surface, having previously covered it with polyethylene. After this, a frame is placed on it wooden slats or plastic. The height of its sides should be 1-2 centimeters higher than the height of the copied material.

Tile surface and inner part The sides are coated with solid oil or cyatim. You can take the cheapest silicone - acidic. It is squeezed out of the tube into the mold in a spiral, starting from the center to the sides until it is filled.

To prevent the formation of bubbles, the silicone is smoothed with a wide fluted brush. It needs to be dipped in solution detergent for dishes. Soap solution is not suitable here because it is alkaline and can ruin the acidic silicone. After filling, the surface of the future form is smoothed with a spatula, also moistened with detergent.

Dry molds for making artificial stone at room temperature in a ventilated area. The drying rate of the silicone composition is approximately 2 mm per day.

Molding mixtures

Gypsum artificial stone

The mixture for gypsum stone is prepared from gypsum grades G5 - G7. It is made in small portions, counting on simultaneous filling of no more than two forms, since the setting time of this binder does not exceed 10 minutes.

Mixture composition: gypsum, lemon acid to slow down hardening (0.3% of the weight of gypsum), water - 60-70% of the volume of gypsum. The pigment is taken at the rate of 2 to 6% of the weight of the gypsum. The dosage of the coloring substance is selected on test samples of castings.

concrete stone

You can make artificial stone inexpensively and with high quality with your own hands from concrete. Unlike construction, here the initial composition of the components is slightly different: take 3 parts of cement for 1 part sand. Pigment proportions (you need to use a resistant to alkaline environment!) are the same as for gypsum stone.

The addition of polymer additives reduces the brittleness of this material and increases its abrasion resistance.

Cold hardening acrylic stone

This material is made on the basis of acrylic resin and hardener. Recommended volume mineral filler to acrylic is 3:1. The amount of pigment is taken depending on the total weight of the filler (on average from 2 to 6%).

As an inexpensive filler, you can take gravel, stone chips or granite screenings. Before preparing the mixture, the filler is washed with dish gel, then calcined over a fire and rinsed with clean water.

The preparation process consists of three stages: first, the pigment is mixed with the filler. Then the acrylic resin is mixed with a hardener and a filler with pigment is added to it.

The time during which the acrylic mixture must be poured into the mold (from the moment the hardener is introduced into the resin) is no more than 20 minutes. The setting time of the mixture lasts from 30 to 40 minutes. The product requires 24 hours to completely harden.

If you are interested then the best materials They are made from concrete or acrylic. Concrete product It turns out heavier and does not allow you to create surfaces as varied in pattern as when using acrylic resin. However, low cost raw materials and the simplicity of the casting process partially compensate for this disadvantage.

Release agents

For different types artificial stone is used various compositions to separate the mold from the product.

For gypsum stone, the optimal solution is one consisting of artificial or natural wax in turpentine in a ratio of 1:7. To do this, add wax shavings in small portions, stirring, to turpentine heated in a water bath to +50 - +60 C.

For concrete stone use conventional greases (litol, emulsol, cyatim). Before pouring the acrylic composition, the mold is lubricated with a solution of stearin in styrene (proportion 1 to 10) or cyatim.

When using a homemade silicone matrix, it must be protected from deformation that occurs when the hardening gypsum stone and acrylic resin are heated. To do this, before pouring the working mixture, it must be placed in a tray with fine dry sand so that the thickness of its layer is from 2/3 to 3/4 of the height of the mold.

Useful video