What material is best to build a terrace from? Choosing flooring for a terrace: a comparative review of the best materials. Basic information about building materials

Construction of a house, regardless of what time of year it will be built, requires careful selection of materials.

One more important factor The search for suitable wood also depends on the climate of the area in which the house will be located.

Taking into account all the required characteristics of the material, as well as the personal preferences of the owners (regarding the width of the beam or log, colorful structure), you should find suitable option. That is why a brief description of each type of wood will help answer the question: what kind of wood is best to build a house from?

Pine houses

Habitual wooden houses, built from pine, have long come into use. And the reason here, perhaps, lies in certain customs that the people have adopted since time immemorial.

In addition, this material has a low price category.

The density of pine is sufficient to ensure living in a truly warm and reliable house. But it is worth remembering that all coniferous trees can succumb to blueing due to the appearance of various harmful fungi. In particular, this can be avoided if, before construction, reliable protection of the wood from various harmful effects is ensured.

It is also necessary to remember that if this ailment does appear, the problem can be solved locally and there should be no reason for concern. By treating wood with special compounds, you can completely eliminate blue stains and bring it back to its original, normal appearance. In addition, these compositions will not affect humans in any way. But if the owner still does not want to carry out the treatment in the presence of the family, you can take a short vacation and go on a trip at this time.

The most important is the ubiquity of pine, which has become a significant indicator of its price category. A large number of companies offer to purchase this material at a discount or initially at a low cost.

But it is worth remembering that the construction process from pine is optimal in winter period. Thus, any problems with the appearance of fungus will be nipped in the bud - this is a significant advantage of the material.

Spruce houses

Spruce also belongs to the coniferous species and therefore its qualities differ slightly from the pine discussed above. But there are also some other properties.

For example, the looseness of the material is slightly higher, and this is worth remembering when starting construction. However, a large number of modern processing compounds will also make it possible to reliably protect it from fungus. But the most interesting thing is that houses made of spruce are somewhat warmer than pine buildings. The fact is that the material itself, due to its “looseness,” allows external cold to pass through much worse in winter, and is also “reluctant” to give off coolness in the summer.

The cost of spruce is slightly higher. And the difference will become noticeable only if the structure being built has a really large area. For small houses the difference will be almost imperceptible.

Susceptibility to fungal diseases and bluing is as common among spruces as it is among pines. But there is a panacea for this - an antiseptic. And besides, the level of diseases among this tree species in conditions high humidity, as well as various additional factors below. And if the problem with the appearance of sapwood paint frightens the buyer, then it is worth giving preference to this particular material.

Construction, as in the case of using pine, is best carried out in winter, but using exclusively high-quality dried materials.

Larch house

This material occupies a special place among all tree species that are selected for construction.

First of all, it is worth noting the insignificant sapwood, which, when removed, allows you to simplify the task as much as possible with the possibility of blue discoloration. She will simply be absent.

The heat that larch provides in a house is slightly higher than that of spruce and significantly higher than that of pine. That is why this wood is recommended for use in areas with frequent frosts. It will allow you to maintain comfort and warmth in the owner’s home even in extreme cold.

Another advantage of this type of wood is its high resistance to water. Even if water constantly falls on the tree, it will not become wet and significantly absorb moisture.

But quite the opposite - it will only become harder. This feature allows the material to be used in areas with high precipitation and high humidity. Its positive properties will eliminate any problems for the long-term operation of the building.

In addition to the above characteristics, larch is also minimally susceptible to various pests. In particular, her additional processing special compounds are simply not required. That is why it is used in areas where there are a large number of different insects that can destroy the structure of the tree.

There will be no savings, since wood is quite expensive and not every buyer, unfortunately, can afford to use larch as the main building material for a house.

But if the customer wants to become the owner of a truly amazing structure, then the final amount will be fully recouped within for long years use.

In addition, larch is minimally susceptible to fire. That is why it is recommended to use it in areas with too high temperatures in summer, because... it is almost twice as fire resistant as pine logs and timber.

Larch also has a rather original wood pattern, which allows it to be used to build the most unusual and exclusive houses. The color can vary from light brown to dark, almost black, depending on the age of the tree.

We should also not forget about the beneficial qualities of wood, such as its beneficial effects on the human body. All residents of the houses noted a positive mood, increased tone and also improved blood circulation. According to the advice of doctors, it is best to live in such wooden houses for those buyers who, first of all, want to restore their level of health, improve their condition and, of course, raise healthy children.

Cedar houses

First of all, it should be noted that this material becomes the most the best option when building houses with a large area.

The fact is that the height of the trees is sufficient to select materials for the construction of a large structure.

Also particularly important is the variety of wood shades. In particular, it can be either a light yellow tone or an amber one with a pink tint. All this allows you to build your dream home, which will be both beautiful and reliable.

Due to the lightness of wood, it can also be used with foundations with a smaller overall structure and more simple construction. In particular, when considering small buildings, you can resort to using cheaper, but no less durable foundations.

Cedar also has a fairly soft wood structure, which allows it to be used in a variety of forms. Processing is easy, given the scope of cutting and giving unusual and even non-standard forms. In particular, decorating a cedar house with various transitions and other original additions will not be difficult. And even platbands can be cut out of cedar in a minimum period of time. This will allow you to create a building in a more folk style or choose a designer one modern direction high tech and fully follow the drawn up project during construction.

Cedar is just as useful for the residents of the house as larch. It allows you to bring your body back to normal and feel not only cheerful, but also do your favorite things and hobbies enthusiastically at any convenient time.

Oak houses

Oak is one of the most delightful materials for construction. He has a lot positive characteristics and besides this, it is one of the largest types of trees used for country house construction.

The peculiarity of oak is the difference in shades of wood depending on the distance from the core. For example, rings located closer to the core will be light yellow or beige, but those further away have a richer brown tint.

The top layer is insignificant and therefore can be easily removed if desired.

The fact is that the core is considered the strongest part of the tree.

And for oak this figure is several times higher than the outer “shell”.

By using trees only over 30 years old in construction, it is possible to obtain wood with a mysterious wide pattern. But it’s worth remembering that an oak house is an expensive pleasure. And in order to get all the desired qualities, you need to invest a fairly large amount of money.

Humidity has little effect on oak. AND this characteristic is quite comparable with the resistance of larch.

But the strength of oak significantly exceeds all other tree species. Oak may crack, but if treated correctly it will be practically unnoticeable. AND this process will occur evenly and accurately.

How to build a wooden house from rounded timber

It should be noted that oak itself is used in many construction industries and therefore finding suitable finishing materials and additional accessories made of oak will not be difficult. So, creating a great building with really good performance will be a piece of cake.

Oak is a centuries-old tree and houses made from it are noble: durable, not exposed to moisture, neat and most importantly very beautiful. By choosing the right shade of materials, you can create a simpler style or give preference to a more sophisticated project.

Linden houses

Although many buyers do not consider this option, as the main one, but linden houses are also quite common.

The fact is that this wood does not have special heat retention, in accordance with the indicators of other species. That is why it is most often used for the construction of baths or any other non-residential buildings.

But at the same time it has an amazing appearance. Houses made of linden are light, delicate in color and can lift your spirits with their exterior alone and allow you to reach new heights.

The cost of this material is low, and therefore a house can be built from it at a more reasonable cost than from oak or cedar.

It is worth remembering that linden requires special pre-treatment so that no insect pests subsequently become the main problem for the residents of the house. Linden also helps normalize sleep. People living in linden houses noted its beneficial effects.

And this factor, due to the great turmoil modern world can never be overlooked.

Linden houses are reliable and durable. They will differ from similar buildings made of other wood. But at the same time, they can truly be called unique and inimitable. They will bring something new and light, pleasant and useful into the life of the owner. This material has its own harmony and charges all residents with it.

Choosing suitable material To build a house, you should never buy the first wood you like. It is necessary to familiarize yourself with all the characteristics of the area in which the structure will be erected. And it is also quite important to choose the “right” material. For example, you need to remember both the beauty of the wood and its pattern. All this will allow you to accurately execute the drafted project and get a truly amazing result.

The veranda allows you to profitably expand usable space residential building. In a properly constructed and well-equipped extension, you can comfortably spend time both in the warm and cold seasons.

It is best to build the extension so that it covers the entrance door to main house. Therefore, you will not be able to build a veranda on any desired side of the already finished main building. Otherwise, the veranda will be separated from the main building and you will have to enter it from across the street.

The dimensions of the extension are selected individually. For a family of 3-6 people, a veranda measuring 3x4 m is enough. It is also important to consider general form from the street. For example, if you live in a large two- or even three-story house, and the veranda is very small, the overall architectural ensemble will turn out to be inharmonious. For compact houses, you can safely add verandas the width of the entire wall of the main building - it looks great.

Important note! Regardless of the chosen dimensions and the overall features of the extension, its construction must first be legalized. To do this, you must have a project on hand. You can find it in open sources or order it from a specialized company.

Take your project to your local architectural department. Department employees will study your project, make the necessary changes and issue a permit. Keep in mind that on average it takes about 2-3 months to review and approve a project, so the decision this issue It is most profitable to do it in winter, before the start of the construction season.

Construction site marking

We are starting to prepare our construction site.

First step. We remove about 150 mm of the top layer of soil from the perimeter of the future building and take it to the flower beds, vegetable garden or other place.

Second step. Align the resulting depression.

Third step. We carry out the markings. First, focusing on the project, we drive in metal or wooden pins at the corners of the site, then in the same way we drive in intermediate pegs every 1-1.5 m, and then we pull a rope between the pins. We will use it to guide us in the process of arranging the foundation.

Making the foundation

Most often, verandas are built on columnar or strip type foundations. The depth of the support is assumed to be equal to the depth of the foundation of the main house. It is strongly not recommended to connect the main support to the foundation of the extension, because these structures will have widely varying weights. Consequently, the degree of their shrinkage will also vary. To prevent a heavy house from dragging down a relatively light extension, the latter must be built on a separate foundation. To do this, leave approximately a 3-4 cm gap between the foundations.

Important point! When choosing the type of foundation, consider, first of all, the soil characteristics in your region and the total mass of the veranda. For the construction of heavy structures on heaving soils, monolithic ones are best suited. Lightweight structures, for example, made of wood, can be built on columnar supports.

Tape base

A strip-type foundation is optimally suited for the further construction of a veranda on it from building blocks or bricks. The thickness of the base, as already noted, is maintained equal to the thickness of the foundation of the house. If this is a new building, keep the thickness at 70-80 cm.

First step. We dig a trench around the perimeter of the walls of the extension.

Second step. We level the bottom and walls of the trench using wooden boards or panels to the height of the future concrete support.

Third step. We successively fill the bottom of the trench with a 10-centimeter layer of sand and the same layer of crushed stone, making sure to compact each ball of backfill.

Fourth step. We lay a reinforcing mesh of 10-12 mm bars. The recommended mesh size is 10x10 cm. This way the base will be as strong as possible.

Fifth step. We pour concrete prepared from a portion of cement, three portions of sand, 4-5 portions of crushed stone and water.

Carefully level the fill and leave it to dry and gain strength for 3-4 weeks. In hot weather, we pour concrete every day to prevent it from cracking.

Columnar base

Perfect for a veranda made of timber or polycarbonate. It is recommended to make holes for posts with a depth of 80-110 cm. If the veranda is small (up to about 3x4 m), it will be enough to install supports in the corners. However professional builders It is recommended to install intermediate posts for any size veranda. We maintain the distance between supports within 0.8-1 m.

First step. We dig holes in the places where the pillars will be poured. The most convenient way to do this is with a drill.

Second step. We fill the bottom of each depression with a 15-20 cm layer of sand. Additionally, it is recommended to pour approximately 10 cm of crushed stone. We compact each layer.

Third step. Pour the concrete to the ground level and let it harden.

Fourth step. Ready concrete supports coat with bitumen.

Fifth step. We fill the gaps between the ground and the supports with sand.

Sixth step. We erect the above-ground part of the pillars from brick. We make the height equal to the height of the foundation of the main house.

Making a subfloor

The floor can be wooden or concrete. For example, in frame veranda made of wooden beams, a wooden floor would be more appropriate. Concrete pouring will best fit into a brick extension.

We make a wooden subfloor like this:

• We fix the beam of the lower trim on the foundation. We use suitable fasteners, for example, anchors. To connect the beams directly, we first make samples at the places of their joints and additionally fasten them with galvanized nails;
• We attach wooden logs to the bottom trim. We keep the step at 50 cm - this way the floor will definitely not fall through. We use the connection option described above;
• fill the space between the joists with expanded clay;
• We make the flooring from unedged boards or plywood about 50 mm thick. We attach the flooring elements to the joists with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

We make a concrete screed like this:

• fill the base with a 10-centimeter layer of sand;
• pour a layer on top;
• lay the reinforcing mesh. For the floor of the veranda, a mesh of rods with a diameter of 6-8 mm with cells of 25x25 cm is sufficient;
• pour concrete.

Important! The screed should be as even as possible. We carry out the work with mandatory use level.

Building a wooden veranda

Basic properties of the material

Wood is one of the most popular and ancient building materials. Even after the appearance on the market of all kinds of blocks and other low-cost and easy-to-arrange elements, wood practically did not lose ground.

Almost anyone can handle the construction of a simple frame wooden veranda. You just need to properly mount the frame posts and cover them with shields, clapboard or other suitable material.

The undeniable advantages of wood are its environmental friendliness, beautiful appearance and relatively low weight. The latter property allows you to abandon the construction of expensive and difficult to construct foundations.

The main disadvantage of a wooden veranda is its fire hazard - installing a barbecue in such an extension or in the immediate vicinity of it is a very important undertaking that requires taking into account many nuances and details. Therefore, it is better to move the source of fire somewhere further outside the wooden veranda.

Another significant disadvantage of wood is its poor tolerance to high humidity, which is why the material requires serious pre-treatment with special ones. Without such preparation, the wood will rot very quickly.

Construction order

To build the frame we use wooden beams High Quality section 100x100 mm. We already have the bottom trim and subfloor, so we continue to work, adhering to the instructions below.

First step. We cut grooves in the beam of the lower trim for installing vertical supports. We maintain a half-meter step.

Second step. Install vertical racks. To fasten the frame elements we use staples and screws or nails.

Important! The roof of our veranda, as noted, will be sloping. Therefore, we make the vertical beam installed at the bottom point of the slope 50 cm below the opposite posts.

Third step. We mount the beam of the upper trim. On higher racks no questions will arise - we perform the connections in exactly the same way as in the previous stages.

When installing the strapping of lower supports, we do the following: first we connect the pillars longitudinally with a strapping beam, and then we fix the transverse crossbars connecting the high and low posts at the height of the low posts. We fasten the crossbars to the high posts using pre-created samples and nails.

Fourth step. Upper harness ready. The resulting slope will allow us to lay the rafters for the roof. Additionally, we nail a girder near the roof slope. To fasten the beam to all supports, we use anchor bolts. For greater reliability, it is recommended to fasten the strapping beams with transverse boards or beams, if possible and necessary (we focus on the weight of the future roofing material). We will attach racks and struts to them for greater strength of the rafter system.

Fifth step. We install in increments of 50 cm. For this we use a wooden beam with a section of 100x200 mm. We connect structural elements using any of the previously discussed methods.

Sixth step. We cover the frame. For internal lining The lining is perfect, for the outside - siding or other material. We lay layers of hydro- and thermal insulation between the external and internal cladding materials. We attach the film to the frame. The position of the insulation is fixed by transverse slats. The finishing material is also attached to them. When covering, do not forget to leave openings for windows and doors.

Prices for various types of timber

Brick verandas

Basic information about building materials

Brick is excellent for constructing permanent verandas. A building made from this material will be cool in the summer and, provided the insulation is properly insulated, warm in the winter. Brickwork durable, fireproof and easy to maintain.

The main disadvantage of a brick building is its heavy weight. Such structures are built exclusively on , which does not have the best effect on the total cost of construction.

The procedure for constructing a veranda

The foundation is ready and waterproofed, the screed is poured, the base is level and does not require any additional preparatory measures. Let's start laying out the walls.

Pre-select suitable look masonry The most simple options, perfect for self-building a veranda, are the following:

• spoon masonry. The final wall thickness will be 120 mm;
• bonded masonry. Wall thickness – 250 mm;
• chain laying. Allows you to obtain walls with a thickness of 380 mm.

First step. We attach a mooring cord to two opposite ends of the foundation with a tie. It should run along the edge of the base.

Second step. We place the corner bricks along the cord, and then fill the space between them in accordance with the chosen masonry method. For fastening building elements We use standard cement mortar.

Third step. We check the evenness of the first row and similarly lay out the walls to the required height, not forgetting to leave openings for doors and windows.

Important! will be inclined, so we make the wall at the bottom of the slope, as well as the side walls adjacent to it, a row lower compared to the wall supporting the top of the roof.

Having laid out the last row walls, we are installing an armored belt. To do this, we fix formwork about 70 mm high on each wall along the upper surface of the walls, place anchor bolts in the corners, lay reinforcing bars and pour concrete.

Let the concrete harden and then attach it to anchor bolts strapping made of wooden beams with a cross-section of 10x10 cm. The further procedure for arranging the rafter system remains similar to the situation with

If the veranda is planned to be used throughout the year, the walls can be laid in two rows, filling the gap between the rows thermal insulation material. For single masonry, insulation, moisture insulation and interior finishing are carried out by analogy with wooden veranda. Exterior decoration is at your discretion. You can simply carefully unstitch the seams and call it a day.

Prices for construction and facing bricks

Construction and facing bricks

Making a veranda roof

And the rafters are installed. All that remains is to make the sheathing, install the insulating layers and lay the finishing roofing material.

The lathing can be solid (for rolled materials) and sparse (for sheet roofing). We make a continuous sheathing from OSB boards. To do this, we attach them to the rafters with a 1-centimeter gap. We fasten the sparse sheathing beams at a pitch recommended by the manufacturer of the selected roofing material. On average, it is 30-35 cm. To attach the sheathing to the rafters, we use galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

We fill the cells between the sheathing beams with mineral wool for thermal insulation. We lay it on top waterproofing film and attach it to the sheathing using a stapler with staples. In case of arrangement continuous sheathing, we fix the thermal insulation from the inside of the room. We secure the insulation boards using transverse slats, nailing them to the sheathing.

Finally, all that remains is to mount. It is better that it matches the roof covering of the main house. For the rest, we focus on our preferences and available budget.

Finishing the floor

If the subfloor is wooden, we lay insulation in the space between them and fill the joists with flooring made of edged boards. We paint and varnish the boards.

You can also install a boardwalk on top of the concrete screed, similar to the previous method, or lay another material of your choice, for example, linoleum.

Finally, all that remains is the doors, furnishing at your discretion and connecting lighting if necessary. We won't pull the wiring. It is enough to remove the extension cord from the house and turn on the necessary lighting fixtures.

Good luck!

Video - DIY veranda

Open terraces and areas in the garden are usually finished natural stone, concrete or ceramic slabs. A worthy alternative Similar coverings are provided by everyone’s favorite wooden floorings, which are pleasant to walk on barefoot.

. Among the tree species traditionally used for external works– finishing of terraces, garden areas, decking around swimming pools, etc., distinguish between soft (coniferous) and hard (deciduous) wood species. Deciduous species are classified according to their structure into diffuse-vascular and ring-vascular. All disseminated-vascular species have both hardwood and softwood, but all ring-vascular species have hardwood.

In terms of stability tree species are conventionally divided into classes to weather influences. The lower the class, the higher the strength of the wood. The tropical rocks bangkirai and garapu, known for their strength, can be classified as classes 1-2. The service life of these materials is on average 25-30 years climatic conditions Western Europe. When classifying, the properties of untreated wood are taken into account, since with special impregnation and appropriate care, the service life of the material increases significantly.

A worthy alternative to tropical exotics are well-known European species: white acacia (class 1-2), oak (class 2) and larch (class 3), which are widely used in creating garden furniture, construction of terraces and garden paths. When treated with protective impregnations and oils, laid on stone or gravel (to prevent contact with the ground) and carefully maintained, a deck made of wood of these species can last twice as long. Of the soft coniferous species, only pseudo hemlock and larch do not require treatment. Spruce and pine can correspond to classes 1-2 only after special impregnation.

§ Finishing the terrace with soft woods: pine, thermoel, larch, fir.

Typically, softwoods include evergreens. coniferous trees, but not only (softwood also includes birch, aspen, alder, linden, etc.). Their wood is cheaper than hardwoods. Next, let's look at some types of softwood.

PAINTED PINE. The striking pine plank flooring is treated with a water-repellent brown stain and wax. Pine boards are impregnated with a special composition that protects against atmospheric influences. Relief surface with grooves and traces of knots gives the coating additional charm. Price from $12/sq. m (unprocessed) up to $50 / sq. m, depending on the type of wood, the degree of its processing (impregnation, painting), volume of purchase, etc.

TERMO-EL. Spruce wood, which has been heat-treated at temperatures up to 250 °C for 24-48 hours, is widely used as flooring for terraces. In this case, the cellulose is partially caramelized, and the wood acquires strength and water resistance. Its cost is from $28 to $60 per sq. m. meter.

SIBERIAN LARCH. High-quality and reliable material. The long growth and close proximity of the annual rings of Siberian larch contribute to the high density and strength of the wood, which does not require additional chemical treatment. Price from $15 to $52 per sq. m. m, depending on the type of wood.

WHITE FIR. Flooring from natural wood- an eternal classic of the genre. Water-repellent impregnation and brown wood care oil ensured the moisture resistance and impeccable appearance of the white fir relief board. The approximate price of edged untreated fir boards is $170-$200 / cubic meter. m.

§ Terrace made of hardwood: thali, garapa, thermo-ash, oak, bangkirai, bamboo.

Wood from broad-leaved trees is usually classified as a hard species, the wood of which is denser, and products made from it are stronger and more durable. Therefore, it is valued more than soft wood. Hardwood is usually used in its original untreated form.

TALI. Strong and durable, thali wood, a widespread African hardwood, is an ideal material for creating outdoor decking. Price decking boards of this tropical wood ranges from $85-$145/sq. m.

GARAPA. Light shades distinguish garapa from the darker representatives of the tropical forests. Garapa wood is very durable, heavy (its density is higher than oak wood), resistant to termites and rot. The end joining of terrace boards does not require a “groove and tongue” connection. Price – $60-$125 / sq. m.

THERMAL ASH. Beautiful, durable and weather-resistant material. main feature flooring made of thermally treated ash - a rubber sealing tape that protects the seams between the boards from debris and moisture. Price from $85 to $200 per sq. m. m, depending on the type, board size, processing.

OAK Solid and durable oak wood is quite suitable for both parquet flooring and an open terrace. Somewhat inferior in durability to well-known tropical species, it has an elegant appearance and resistance to weathering even without protective impregnation. Oak is cheaper than tropical wood (price ranges from $55-$145 / sq. m).

BANGKIRAI. An excellent solution for open areas. Durable and massive bangkirai wood is practically resistant to mechanical damage. Bangkirai is highly resistant to moisture and rotting due to its high content of essential oils. The flooring is made from hard and durable Bangkirai wood and is impregnated with anti-slip oil containing hard particles that give the boards a pleasant roughness. Price from $75 to $140 per sq. m. m, depending on the size and profile of the board.

BAMBOO. In many physical parameters, bamboo is superior to ash, oak, maple and many other European species. Bamboo is a grass, not a tree. However, due to its strength (strength class 2-3) it is widely used as terrace/ flooring and other outdoor works. Its cost is in the range of $40-$85 / sq. m. m.

§ Wood-polymer (plastic) composites – WPC.

Wood-polymer composites (resistance class 1), consisting of a mixture of wood fibers and artificial materials (polyethylene or polypropylene), are more resistant to atmospheric influences. They differ in their recipes (ratio of wood to artificial material), dimensions and partly surface structure - absolutely smooth, with wood texture, corrugated or with grooves on the outside. Profiles can vary in thickness, be hollow or solid. Choosing one or the other finishing material depends both on the load and on the distance to the supporting structure.

Terrace made of wood-plastic composite : Weather-resistant artificial flooring remains non-slip even in rain. The choice of composite decking boards is very wide. A large number of manufacturers, there are both relatively inexpensive/available offers ($30- $7 0 / sq. m), and more expensive (70$ -$140 / sq. m), branded materials – complete flooring systems.

An important advantage WPC decking is the absence of splinters, cracks and fiber twisting. In addition, they do not require such careful maintenance as natural coatings. However, under the influence sunlight Composite materials can fade, but they do not turn gray, but fade. Therefore, for artificial floorings, special means care, returning them to their original color.

Modern composite elements are available in a fairly wide color palette, which opens up incredible possibilities for their combinations, allowing you to create original decking for terraces and outdoor areas, decorated with various inserts and applications.

An example of creating an original application from WPC.

Problematic ends: cover or hide?

Composite boards with hollow profiles are usually equipped with special caps for finishing the ends. But what if the flooring has an irregular or rounded shape? Rough edge in this case, you can fill it with gravel or crushed stone. Although coverings made of wood-plastic boards are not afraid of moisture, it is better to choose a drier place to build a terrace to the house.

The ends of composite boards look unaesthetic and therefore need to be masked. Open semicircular sections can be covered with crushed stone.

Furniture and floor: color harmony. The light brown color of the WPC board matches perfectly with the elegant wicker sofa in a classic beige shade. Gray shades are always in fashion. The steel color of the wicker chair harmonizes well with the pearl shade of the composite board.

The variety of color palettes of wood-polymer flooring makes it possible to achieve the optimal combination of furniture and flooring. Different surface textures (large or small grooves) significantly affect the shade of the coating. By combining elements with different textures, you can achieve interesting decorative effects.

↓ The Easy-Fix ​​system for decking consists of a rubber band and special fasteners that are attached to the sides and ends of the boards and snap into place when they are aligned. This method of fastening does not require drilling holes or using bolts and creates a continuous moisture-proof surface.

BASE FOR DECK. A wooden terrace requires a reliable foundation. Place on compacted gravel, which serves to drain rainwater. concrete plates, and then the beams of the supporting structure, on top of which the flooring boards are laid.

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There are different opinions regarding the choice of wood for building a terrace.

Pine

The cheapest and most popular option for constructing a terrace is to use it for face coverings and joists - pine wood.
Pine- the most common material for construction in central Russia, has a retail price of 130-200 euros per cubic meter. wood with natural moisture. The density of pine is about 400-470 kg/cub.m with a wood moisture content of about 10%. The natural color of freshly cut pine wood ranges from white to light brown depending on growing conditions. Pine wood in central Russia (growing area, for example, Moscow and the Moscow region) has a darker shade of freshly sawn wood, density is about 400-430 kg/cub.m. at 10% humidity. Over time, exposure to UV radiation causes a chemical reaction to oxidize the wood, causing it to fade to a dull brown hue. When exposed to atmospheric precipitation - rain and snow, untreated pine wood acquires a gray tint after just a year, small cracks appear on it, which increase in size over time. Water entering these cracks and freezing and thawing destroys the wood. The service life of pine in terrace flooring, in the absence of direct contact of wood with soil, is 10-12 years.
Under the influence of precipitation and UV radiation, untreated pine wood, which initially has a white-yellow color, gradually begins to turn gray, crack and crumble. The very fact of cracking spoils the appearance of wooden surfaces and worsens the structural properties of the product. If you remove 1-2 millimeters of the top layer, the tree will again take its original appearance. This phenomenon can be prevented by timely application of an antiseptic or paint coating.
Much more dangerous for pine wood is a fungus, the effect of which is manifested by “blueing.” The impact of fungus on wood occurs and progresses at high air humidity and temperature 10-25oC. The stillness of the surrounding air contributes to the appearance of blueness. Damp, freshly cut wood is more susceptible to blueing than dried wood. However, dry wood can also turn blue if the above conditions are present. Blue discoloration on wood is a precursor to rotting, and its presence indicates excessive moisture in the material. That is why industrial harvesting of pine wood in all regions of Russia is carried out mainly in winter.
The worst enemies wood are fungi, mold and bacteria. They not only spoil the appearance, but also destroy the fibers and also cause softening of the wood, causing irreparable damage. load-bearing structures. Professionals distinguish types of rot (the result of microorganisms affecting wood) by color (red, white, gray, yellow, green). Red rot affects coniferous wood, white and yellow rot affects oak and birch, green rot affects oak barrels, and wooden beams and ceilings of cellars. The most terrible enemy of wooden houses is the white house mushroom. In one month, he is able to “eat” a four-centimeter oak floor. Previously, in villages, a hut that was affected by this fungus was immediately burned to save all other buildings from infection. In general, rot, once it has already appeared, is very difficult to fight. Often only a radical method helps - cutting out the infected areas. If the rotting process has already begun, it can only be stopped by thoroughly drying and ventilating wooden structures. It’s better not to let this happen and prevent rot from occurring, as well as wood contamination, by the way. harmful insects. Therefore, the material must be stored correctly, the right design solutions must be chosen, and the wood must be treated with antiseptics and preservatives.
There are several ways to increase the service life of pine wood. The first method is widely used all over the world - surface treatment of wood with antiseptics.
A few words about antiseptics used for wood processing.

Antiseptic wood

Antiseptics- these are special chemical compositions, which have antimicrobial and fungicidal (antifungal) effects and allow you to extend the service life of wood. Modern antiseptics, used to protect wood from biological enemies, extend the service life of products by 20-30%.
Antiseptics the majority are carcinogenic substances, therefore an essential requirement for antiseptics is their safety for people and animals and environment. Antiseptic treatment wooden materials and products can be produced in a factory by impregnation in baths, under pressure or directly on the construction site during installation or finishing. Most effective way Wood protection with an antiseptic is treated in a factory.
In the case of using antiseptics and preservatives during finishing work, in order to achieve the maximum protective effect, all preservative treatment of wood should be carried out after planing, milling, drilling and stripping, but before assembling the wooden parts into the product.
Antiseptics can be divided into antiseptic primers, which serve for pre-treatment of wood and require the application of a top decorative protective coating (varnish, tinting composition, paint), and glazing (or tinting) compositions with antiseptic additives.
Glazing or tinting compounds with antiseptic additives change the color of the wood to a greater or lesser extent and very slightly change its texture. Many of these compounds have an extensive tinting base, but in general the colored compounds remain translucent, highlighting the natural beauty of the wood. At the same time, they reliably protect wood from adverse environmental factors. In general, tinted antiseptics provide more reliable protection from UV radiation than colorless ones.
The antiseptic applied to the wood is gradually washed away by rain, wiped off on the most used areas of the terrace, and in practice, pine terrace flooring loses its original appearance and requires periodic (once every 2-3 years) antiseptic treatment. The antiseptic applied to the wood is gradually washed away by rain and wiped off in the most exploited areas of the terrace and in practice, pine decking loses its original appearance and requires periodic (once every 2-3 years) antiseptic treatment.

Heat-treated wood

Antiseptic treatment has been replaced by modern technology heat treatment wood, which made it possible to abandon antiseptics.
Due to high temperatures during heat treatment, hemicelluloses decompose in wood, which, against the background of low equilibrium humidity, eliminates the conditions for the emergence and proliferation of fungi and microorganisms. As a result of molecular changes in the structure of wood, primarily due to the depolymerization of cellulose and an increase in its crystallinity, wood is stabilized - its chemical resistance and stability of geometric dimensions increases. Thus, heat treatment leads to protection against deformation (including “swelling” and “drying”) when humidity and ambient temperature change.
Heat treatment gives ordinary wood unusual decorative properties, and the texture of the wood is effectively revealed. Moreover, the shade that wood acquires as a result of thermal treatment is caused not by tinting, but by changes in the wood itself under the influence of high temperatures, and the color of the wood is uniform throughout the entire cross-section. Depending on the specified heat treatment mode, you can achieve different colors of wood (from light beige and golden to dark brown).
The advantage of heat-treated pine wood is its environmental friendliness. The main disadvantages of heat-treated wood are its increased fragility, high price pine products - from 570 to 700 euros per cubic meter.
IN Lately Positive experience in heat treatment of wood species such as beech, birch, ash, and aspen has made it possible to use species that were previously considered applicable only for interior decoration - for the construction of terraces.

tropical wood

Tropical wood, such as ipe, masaranduba, teak, iroko, azobe, etc., is widely used for the construction of terraces. The use of wood from these species is justified. Iroko and teak wood have long been renowned for their durability due to the presence of specific oils that permeate the entire tree trunk, however, these oils are washed out over time, and teak and iroko wood structures require periodic treatment. The density of teak and iroko wood is 500-600 kg/cub.m. at a humidity of about 10-12%. Teak and iroko wood are widely used in shipbuilding for the construction of flooring on the decks of expensive yachts. Wood of the “ironwood” class, having a density of more than 1000 kg/cub.m. and according to the European wood classification it is very resistant. However, there are certain difficulties when working with wood high density. First of all, this is warping of dense wood in the terrace, caused by residual tension in the wood and uneven moisture content of the wood ( low humidity- on a surface, high humidity- inside).
The high-quality drying process for high-density wood takes more than a year, which modern conditions completely unprofitable. There have been cases when boards of tropical wood, packed in bundles and taken to the site within a week, became unusable due to “screw” or “saber” type deformation. But even when laid and pulled to the joists using self-tapping screws or special fasteners, it changed its geometry and required replacement. Separately, it is worth mentioning the cost of tropical wood. There are quite a few offers for the sale of tropical wood, but the cost ranges from 1400-2500 euros per cubic meter, taking into account waste, and it can be up to 70% (trimming the board to the blank, stitching, trimming to size) you can calculate the cost square meter boards.

Larch

Separately, it is necessary to note the use of larch wood for the construction of the terrace. The cost of larch wood is quite fixed on the domestic market and amounts to about 250 euros per cubic meter. wood The rather rigid price on the domestic market is determined by the stable price of larch wood exported to Europe. The rationale for using larch wood for the construction of terraces is presented in the article "About larch."

The essential properties of decking boards are: width, thickness, density, service life, profile.

Decking dimensions

Terrace boards come in different widths: from 90 to 150 mm.
The thickness of deck boards is usually standardized and has the following dimensions: 20, 27, 32, 44 mm.

In this article we will talk about how to add a terrace to a private house with your own hands. You will find out what material is suitable for this the best way, and how to use it correctly. We will also consider several options for terrace designs.

Every owner of a private house sooner or later thinks about erecting a gazebo or creating a terrace on their property. Indeed, it’s a luxury, having a plot of land, not to make yourself a place to relax on the street, so that you can hide from summer heat or autumn rain. However, the presence of a roof is not a prerequisite...

What is a terrace

A terrace is a special platform created on the ground or above the ground (terra - “earth”). Often the terrace is left open, which is very typical for climatic zones, where it is relatively warm and there is not much precipitation. Whereas in more severe conditions, this structure is equipped with a continuous fence that protects people from the wind, a roof or even glazing (although this will turn out to be a “veranda”). With the help of roofing and translucent structures, a space is created that is not afraid of rain and snow, wind and scorching sun.

Selecting a configuration and location

In general, the terrace as an additional structure has a huge variety of solutions. It could be:

• A building adjacent to the house (sometimes on a common foundation with the cottage).
• An entirely separate site (sometimes at a considerable distance from the home).

The terrace that is attached to the building can be located on the front facade and combined with the main porch, or built on one of the sides (for example, near a shady wall), up to the complete encircling of the cottage around the perimeter. Such options usually have their own separate passage from the house, sometimes their own separate porch - for access to the site.

Accordingly, there are absolutely no requirements or standards that would regulate the shape of the terrace - it can be rectangular and round, oval, curvilinear, multifaceted. Generally accepted building codes and regulations must be taken into account.

In terms of height, it is made either taking into account the terrain (separate platforms) - there are options with the arrangement of platforms directly on the ground or slightly raised to ventilate the flooring from below. And the attached terrace is tied either to the level of the first floor, rarely - to the level of the second floor. The site itself can be flat or multi-level, it all depends on the conditions and design objectives, because any idea can be brought to life using lumber.

A separate topic is the presence of auxiliary and additional elements. There is also a huge field for experimentation and application. On a wooden terrace they do:

• Fencing.
• Roofing - partial or the entire area.
• A pergola, for example, made from pine slats.
• Built-in benches and tables made of timber/boards
• Barbecues and grills, flower boxes.
• Steps and stairs...

Material for making a wooden terrace

The main material for creating a terrace will, of course, be a board. It will be used to make flooring - which is the main element of the structure. Only a good grade 1 edged board will allow you to assemble a high-quality floor that is smooth and reliable, functional and beautiful. Oak or larch can be used as raw materials, but pine or spruce would be a worthy replacement for these species in terms of durability and price.

Important! You should not buy tongue-and-groove floorboards for making a terrace, since the lock will not allow water to drain properly from the flooring.

The thickness of the decking boards is determined by the spans they will span. In most cases, a thickness of 28-32 mm will be sufficient. As for the width of the lumber, you can use calibrated boards (say, 100 or 150 mm wide), or you can combine products with different widths in the flooring.

Note that the board for assembling a terrace can have a natural humidity of 19-22 percent, but it is better, of course, to work with dried material with a humidity level of about 15-18 percent.

To make fences, supports, roof rafter systems, you need a beam or timber. The cross-section of the material is selected depending on the configuration and predicted loads, and other technical indicators are similar to the requirements for the flooring board. Timber is often used for pillars square section 100X100 or 150X150. 50X50, 50X70, or 50X100 products are perfect for fencing; they are also made from blockhouse and imitation timber...

Roof rafters, if they are not part of the roof of the house, are assembled from boards 50X100 mm, 40X100 mm, its sheathing is again assembled from boards (usually a 25 mm wide edged shank is used) or bars. If as finishing coating planned use bitumen shingles, then you will have to make a continuous deck on the roof from moisture-resistant plywood or OSB-3 with a thickness of about 12 mm.

Sometimes, if the house is made of logs, then in order for the terrace to match the style, the fences and post-and-beam structure are made from elongated crowns with the installation of other elements from logs.

The basic procedure for building a terrace near a house is as follows.

Foundation + load-bearing base

If the foundation was not provided initially and was not poured along with the foundation of the house, then it will have to be done now. The most obvious in terms of practicality and the most economical option a columnar structure will be installed, which will be buried below the depth of soil freezing in winter. The approximate step between the pillars of one field is chosen in the range from 1.5 meters to 0.6 meters. On average they make about 1 meter.
A good option will be used screw piles. If desired, it is possible to build the pillars from blocks or bricks. You can also fill in the tape, but this will be a bit expensive for the terrace and tiring for the workers.

Whatever the foundation is, it must be tied up in the future. To do this, a powerful beam or double board is placed horizontally on top of the foundation (along the perimeter and in rows), which will work as support beams for the floor.

Between the frame beams and the foundation it is necessary to lay roofing felt or other insulating material, which will prevent water from the ground from rising to the wood. Sheet waterproofing is also needed in the area where the terrace frame meets the wall or foundation of the house.

Creating a deck

In order for the board to have sufficiently reliable support, the strapping beams are usually not enough. They are either supplemented with crossbars (I use perforated fasteners to create a T-shaped connection), or logs are laid on top of them in increments of 40-60 cm, onto which the boards will subsequently be attached.

When assembling the frame, it makes sense not to make it strictly horizontal, but to create an “imperceptible” slope to drain water in a given direction - about 1-2 centimeters per meter.

Edged decking boards are nailed to the joists using stainless steel knurled nails (or using screw nails), or anodized screws can also be used. Since tongue and groove materials are not used here, the fastening is usually done through, and the heads of the fasteners are then puttied or covered with plugs.

At each intersection of the board with the joist, you need to use at least two nails. In this case, you should not fasten the boards close to each other; it is better to leave a gap of about two to five millimeters between the edges of adjacent lumber - for possible expansion and drainage of rainwater.

Many homeowners choose to add style to their deck boards. To do this, they use a milling cutter or other suitable tool remove a small chamfer from the upper edges (between the front face and the edges). Using metal brushes, the front surfaces are aged.

Flooring boards (and all other lumber used) must be thoroughly coated/impregnated with an antiseptic before installation, and it would not be superfluous to treat the wood with fire retardant.

The final stage

In principle, having a wooden platform covered with a board, we can consider that this is already a terrace. Having a roof and fencing is not mandatory; everyone decides for themselves whether they need it. But some work still needs to be done with the flooring.

Among them we highlight the following:

• Covering the ends of the terrace using edged boards.
• Sanding/planing of decking.
• Applying an additional layer of antiseptic.
• Application of the final protective and decorative paint coating.

To ensure that the wooden terrace harmonizes with the house and, while remaining beautiful, does not cause problems with operation, choose lumber carefully. And when starting work, keep in mind that there are simply no minor details in the construction business.