How to reduce humidity in an apartment in summer. Methods of dealing with high air humidity in an apartment (house). Dampness in the apartment

Very often, an increase in air humidity is associated with poor ventilation. Plastic windows, now installed in many apartments and cottages, are airtight, which allows them to retain heat in the room and cut off street noise. However, if a high-quality ventilation system is not installed in the house, this tightness becomes unpleasant. by-effect: Air humidity gradually increases, especially when using the bathroom and kitchen. To solve the problem, you should take care of the installation autonomous system ventilation, ventilate common house equipment, or at least ventilate the premises more often.

"Weeping" Windows - the first sign that the level of ventilation of rooms is poor. Remember that typical communal metering system in such cases will not be enough.

The problem may lie not only in poor ventilation. Leaking pipes, poor foundation waterproofing, and a rotten roof can also lead to a significant increase in air humidity levels in the home. If this is the problem, install new system ventilation will not help get rid of it. In such cases, you need to take care first of all to eliminate the cause, not the effect.

How to quickly reduce indoor humidity

There are also additional ways fight against high humidity to apartments and cottages. A good option may be to use special chemicals. They absorb moisture, normalizing the microclimate in the rooms, and, as a rule, they cope with their task quite quickly.

Be very careful when using such tools, if you have children or animals!

Another a good option– installation of an air dryer. Such devices allow you to quickly reduce the humidity level to a given value. They are mobile, so you can move them from one room to another if necessary. To ensure that the dehumidifier works efficiently and helps you quickly and easily deal with the problem, pay attention Special attention his choice. The more spacious the room and the higher the air humidity, the more powerful the device should be. Otherwise, it simply will not be able to perform its functions.

Finally, if the rooms are cool, you can use autonomous heating devices to dehumidify the air. They raise the temperature and lower the humidity level, allowing you to create a comfortable microclimate. One way to gently reduce humidity is to use a “warm floor” system.

Dampness in rooms is fraught with an unpleasant odor, black spots and mold on the walls and in the corners. Moist, warm air is an incubator for bacteria and microscopic fungi, which cause various life-threatening diseases: tuberculosis, colds, bronchitis, pneumonia, bronchial asthma, skin inflammation and suppuration. Dampness must be removed from the room using various methods.

Isolation of the source of dampness

If dampness enters the wall from the soil in the form groundwater, the room is difficult and sometimes impossible to dry. A similar situation occurs when the foundation is poorly waterproofed. The way out would be drainage system installed on the territory adjacent to the building. If this is not possible, the wet wall is insulated by covering it with a layer of waterproof material:

• rolled bitumen;
• mastics;
• penetrating mixtures based on polyurethane resins.

The latter method is preferable. Under the layer of bitumen, the wall continues to dampen and collapse. Penetrating mixtures penetrate into the pores, making concrete and brick waterproof.

Damp basements

On the first floors there is an increased humidity appears due to flooding of basements premises . The housing office should deal with the elimination of pipe ruptures, but apartment owners lower floors They can also take part in improving the microclimate by carrying out additional waterproofing of floors:

• floor slabs are cleaned of dirt and loose layers of concrete;
• seal cracks;
• level and prime the surface with bitumen or any other moisture-repellent mastic.

The insulation should cover the floor and part of the walls, rising vertically on them by 10-20 cm.

Neutral sealants are easy to use:

• Penetron – mortar made of cement and quartz sand, which is suitable for waterproofing reinforced concrete and concrete surfaces.
• Waterplug is a product made from aluminate cement, sand and active chemical additives. It is applied for quick fix leaks in concrete, brick and stone surfaces.

Premises on the ground floors require additional heat sources. They could be:

• Sun rays;
• split systems;
• electric floor heating systems;
• household electric heaters.

Additional sources are used in spring and autumn, since humidity in basements increases sharply at this time of year. Heat quickly drives dampness out of the room.

Drying methods

The fight against dampness is successful when the root cause is eliminated. Air dehumidification will last a long time if you get rid of the source of the problem.

For example, if a wall becomes damp due to defects in the pipes adjacent to it or as a result of careless use of water (flooding), then to eliminate humidity in the room it is enough to restore the integrity and tightness of the water distribution system.

How to maintain normal air humidity in an apartment?

Alpine windows

Apartments for upper floors Most often they become damp for external reasons. Humidity appears as a consequence of insufficient wall insulation, poor-quality processing of interpanel seams, poor roof waterproofing, low battery efficiency central heating.

Ventilation of apartments located on the fifth floors of Khrushchev-era buildings involves the entry of fresh air through cracks in the window frames, and then its removal through ventilation shafts. Most residents replace their old ones over time wooden frames on plastic double-glazed windows that prevent the flow of outside air. Also, ventilation on the top floors of five-story buildings does not work efficiently enough, since the lower levels “draw” the main air flow in the shafts. As a result, mold in the corners and water on the window sills have become commonplace in apartments located under the roof.

Alpine windows help solve the problem of insufficient ventilation of Khrushchev and other panel houses. Holes for these structures are punched in the outer walls. The valves supply fresh air, which passes through the room and is removed through the ventilation shaft, picking up moisture.

Construction of an alpine window

Alpine window - view from the room

Electric dryers

In rooms with poor ventilation, dampness appears even for ordinary household reasons. Daily drying of laundry, a large number of aquariums or plants, frequent cooking or showering can increase the water vapor content in the air to a concentration that is unacceptable for a living space.

For this reason, it is necessary to reconsider everyday life. Linen should be dried not in rooms, but on balconies, verandas, loggias, and attics. Hood installed above kitchen stove, will eliminate vapors rising from boiling pots and kettles. An electric heated towel rail for the bathroom will help combat moisture in this room.

The safest way to eliminate high air humidity in an apartment is not to do it yourself, but to purchase a special dehumidifier with automatic operation. This type of climate control technology successfully copes with the elimination of humidity in apartments, quickly regulating the air condition. Household dehumidifiers are economical and compact, operate silently, and are safe to use.

Household electric dehumidifier

The operating principle of the device is as follows:

• the fan is sucking in room air inside the device;
• it passes through the evaporator and is cooled below the dew point, while water vapor condenses and flows into the container;
• the air is passed through the condenser, heated and returned to the room.

It has a higher temperature than the original one, so it is not advisable to use the device in hot weather. In the warm season, another drying method is used - ventilation.

Ventilation

Ventilation in sunny, dry weather helps get rid of minor dampness and is a good prevention of its occurrence. Exist sanitary standards carrying out this procedure for various institutions, including preschool and educational institutions.

Residential rooms ventilate before going to bed and after waking up, opening window or windows for 10-30 minutes. In the bathroom (if it has a window), close the doors first to prevent dampness from spreading to other rooms. The apartment is ventilated after long periods of cooking, showering, and washing. If you are going to dry clothes in a room, the door should be tightly closed and the window should be opened.

Additional heating

Heating devices increase the temperature and dry the air at the same time. This function is performed by central heating batteries. If the power of the radiators is not enough, additional heat sources are installed. They will reduce the relative humidity. Water vapor will not leave the room without ventilation, but the dampness will become less noticeable.

The following heaters are used for heating with dehumidification:

• infrared;
• oil;
• convector;
• fan heaters.

Exist heating devices, which can actually remove moisture from the air by splitting it into oxygen and hydrogen atoms. In ordinary living conditions it is impossible to achieve such an effect, since a temperature above +2000 degrees Celsius will be required. It is typical for special carbide heating elements. In apartments, cottages and dachas such high temperatures are fire hazardous, so they can only be used in industrial environments.

Traditional methods

In the summer, wallpaper is removed from moldy walls and treated as follows:

• Dissolve 500 g of laundry soap in 5 liters of water.
• Boil, let cool.
• Apply the solution evenly to the wall using a brush.
• Let it dry.
• Repeat until the solution stops being absorbed.
• Another composition is prepared - 100 g of alum is diluted in 6 liters of water.
• Cover the wall once.

There is a way to eliminate dampness in a private home with stove heating. To do this, new bricks are heated and placed on fireproof stands near damp wall. The operation is repeated until the dampness disappears. Bricks stop absorbing moisture after 10-15 heating, then they are replaced with new ones. The old ones are used as fireproof stands. Hot bricks should not be left overnight to avoid fire. There should be no flammable objects near them. The method is not used in houses with wooden walls: made of timber, logs or boards.

Table salt absorbs moisture from the air well. To dry a room, place any open vessel with a substance in a damp corner. From time to time, damp salt is dried in an oven, crushed and used again as a desiccant. You can use others instead folk remedies: calcium chloride (they sprinkle it on roads in icy conditions), quicklime, charcoal.

Mold on the wall of a damp room is removed as follows:

• the surface is well dried;
• one part salicylic acid dissolve in 200 parts of alcohol and dilute with a small amount of water;
• Apply the mixture to mold spots.

Salicylic acid and alcohol will prevent the fungus from multiplying in the old place, but it may appear on another wall if measures are not taken to drain the entire living space.

The level of humidity in the house plays a vital role in shaping the microclimate, providing a healthy and comfortable atmosphere, or, conversely, promoting the development of pathogens, mold growth, the proliferation of dust mites, causing allergies, emergence unpleasant odors and discomfort. Increased level humidity of building structures, elements and materials, reduced or absent possibility for natural or forced drying leads to permanent or temporary accumulation of moisture in the thickness or on the surfaces of materials, which can increase their thermal conductivity, accelerate corrosion or biological destruction.
Insufficient level Humidity in the house also leads to discomfort in the internal atmosphere of the house.

Optimal level relative humidity Humidity in a house is considered to be between 30 and 50%. Relative humidity is determined by the ratio of the amount of water vapor in the air to its maximum possible content at a given temperature. The higher the air temperature, the more water vapor it can contain. The temperature at which the air cannot contain any additional water vapor is called the "dew point". Not high level relative humidity provides maximum comfort for humans, does not contribute to the development of potentially harmful microorganisms (dust mites) and ensures the safety of building structures and materials.

Signs of high humidity in the house.

Unpleasant odors. The intensity of odors in a room increases with increasing humidity. An increase in household odors may indicate an increase in humidity in the room atmosphere. A musty smell can signal the growth of mold, mildew, or rot.

Feeling damp. Indicates an increase in humidity and poor ventilation of the room.

Condensation, formation of frost and ice on cold surfaces. Condensation, frost, ice on cold surfaces indicate excess moisture in the room and the presence of insufficient insulation outer contour buildings and possible leaks of warm air through cracks.

Changes in color, texture and moisture content of material surfaces. Warping, swelling, deformation, cracking, blistering, crumbling, peeling, discoloration, darkening, the appearance of dark or colored spots or veins on the surfaces of materials may indicate increased humidity in the room. The growth of mold or mildew is accompanied by the appearance of spots of white, orange, green, brown, blue or black. Intensive reproduction of fungi begins at a relative humidity of 70%.

The formation of bubbles and paint cracks indicates capillary pressure of moisture in porous structures. The precipitation of salts and powdery substances on concrete surfaces is an indicator of the presence of moisture that has evaporated from the surface of the concrete. The formation of lamellar chips on the surface of concrete indicates the freezing of excess moisture in the thickness of the material.

Biological destruction of wood. Rot and decay wooden structures indicates the constant damaging effects of moisture, which creates optimal conditions for the growth and reproduction of wood-destroying microorganisms. At biological destruction the wood changes its color, becomes loose and soft, which can lead to damage to the integrity of wooden structures under load.

Wet pipes.“Sweating” cold pipes are a sign of high humidity in the house. Current cold water significantly cools the surfaces of pipes on which excess moisture condenses.

Hygrometer readings. If the relative humidity in your home exceeds 50%, it may indicate a moisture problem. Moreover, even a low level of humidity in the atmosphere of the house does not guarantee the absence of problems with excess humidity in structures or separate rooms(basements, attics, etc.).

Sources of high humidity in the house.

1. Interstitial moisture. Porous Construction Materials, such as wood, concrete and others contain a certain amount of moisture located in the structure of the material. Moisture from materials can suitable conditions(lack vapor barriers, an increase in the temperature of the material, the presence of a difference in water vapor pressure) begin to evaporate into the internal atmosphere of the house, increasing the humidity level. The volume of seasonal evaporation from building materials can reach from 3 to 8 liters of water per day. In internal environment In a newly built or renovated house, wet building materials evaporate on average up to 5 liters of water per day.

1. Trunk moisture. Moisture can enter the house in the form of rain, snow or groundwater, water supply and sewerage leaks, storage tanks for water, seeping through leaks in moisture-proofing media (roofing, walls, waterproofing, pipes, shut-off fittings, containers).

1. Capillary moisture. Capillary moisture enters the house through microscopic communicating pores of materials such as concrete, brick, wood from the external humid environment in the absence of waterproofing layers or layers that break the capillaries. Even the presence of a foundation slab is not an obstacle to moisture entering the house from the ground, if under the slab there is no layer of waterproofing and a granular mineral layer (coarse sand, crushed stone, gravel) that breaks the soil capillary network. The amount of moisture entering a house when the foundation waterproofing is damaged can be quite significant - up to 50 liters of water per day.

1. Moisture vapor transfer through porous materials. Due to pressure differences, water vapor can penetrate porous materials such as cellular concrete or tree. Both excess vapor transfer during outside-in steam transfer, for example, in hot and humid climates, and insufficient or blocked inside-out steam transfer can contribute to an increase in humidity. Significant moistening of building structures occurs when moisture evaporates from the uninsulated soil under the house, especially in the absence of sufficient ventilation of the underground space.

1. Moisture transfer with air flow. Air flows through cracks in building structures, on unsealed sections of media, around communications passing through walls and ceilings or open openings, windows or doors are capable of transferring saturated water vapor from the street. Up to 98% of all moisture enters the house with air flows. All other paths account for no more than 2% of the volume of moisture in the house. An uncontrolled influx of cold winter air containing a reduced amount of moisture can lead to the opposite effect: drying out the air in the room. Insufficient or absent exhaust ventilation helps increase the humidity level in the house. Moisture transfer with ventilation air flows allows you to quickly and effectively reduce the level of humidity in the house.

1. The human factor in the formation of moisture inside the house. A person himself evaporates a sufficient amount of moisture into the internal environment of a living space through breathing and sweating. A family of 3-4 people evaporates up to 200 ml of moisture per hour (4.8 liters in 24 hours). A lot of moisture is formed during economic, household and hygienic activities. At wet cleaning evaporates up to 150 ml of moisture from square meter area. Cooking food for a family of 3-4 people during the day (breakfast, lunch and dinner) and washing dishes leads to the evaporation of up to 3 liters of moisture. Cooking with gas increases the amount of moisture by another 1 liter. Drying clothes indoors results in the evaporation of 4 to 6 liters of moisture. In addition to increasing the humidity in the house, drying clothes indoors causes residues to evaporate. detergents and an increase in villus in the air, which can lead to the provocation of allergic diseases. When taking a shower, 100 ml of moisture evaporates every 5 minutes. An increase in humidity in the house is caused by cooking in dishes without lids, a significant number of live plants in pots, open aquariums, and the use of air humidifiers.

From inside or outside? Capillary test. To determine the external or internal source of the formation of excess humidity and dampness on the walls or floor, a capillary test is performed:

1. Find an area of ​​damp wall or floor.
2. Dry it thoroughly using wipes and a hair dryer.
3. Cover the area to be examined with a sheet of vapor-proof plastic or film.
4. Carefully adhere the material to the surface with waterproof plumbing tape.
5. After 2-3 days, examine the sheet of plastic and the surface of the wall or floor underneath it. If moisture appears under the leaf, this means the capillary origin of the incoming moisture through building construction. If moisture condenses on the outer surface of the plastic, the source of increased humidity is located indoors. If moisture is detected both under the leaf and on the leaf, this may mean that there are two ways of moisture entering at the same time.

Options for solving problems with excess humidity in the house.

Foundation and basement.

You can reduce the likelihood of moisture entering by capillary through the foundation in the following ways: drainage surface waters, lowering the groundwater level and waterproofing foundations and underground structures of the building.

The set of activities includes:

1. Installation of a system for collecting precipitation from the roof and discharging it to storm sewer. Preferred closed system drainpipes with the supply of precipitation directly to the storm sewer, without intermediate outflow of collected water onto the blind area or soil. At open system Drainage trays are installed on top of the blind area. If there is a system for collecting and draining precipitation from the roof, it must be regularly cleaned of leaves and other debris that can impede its operation.
2. Device ground slope away from the building. The minimum recommended slope width is 150 cm with a rise of 7 cm at the house, and the optimal width is 3 meters with a rise of 15 cm.
3. Wide waterproofing blind area around the building will help reduce watering of the soil adjacent to the foundation and basement. It is not necessary to arrange concrete blind area: you can use a more economical soft underground blind area made of waterproofing polymer-bitumen materials, hermetically connected by gluing or fusing to the surface waterproofing of the foundation.
4. Foundation waterproofing It is performed in the form of sticking or fusing polymer-bitumen waterproofing materials onto a concrete surface primed with a primer. Waterproofing is applied to all faces of the concrete surfaces of the foundation, and not just to the outside. You should not use roofing felt for waterproofing - its service life before cracking does not exceed 5-7 years. The installation of a vertical drainage membrane of the “Delta” type will help reduce the backwater of groundwater.
5. Device ring drainage around the foundation with water drainage lower along the terrain, or into drainage reservoirs or wells. It is recommended to triple at least two drainage rings - next to the foundation and next to the edge of the waterproofing area around the foundation.
6. When constructing a new building and laying the foundation and underground structures of basements, compacted cushions made of coarse sand, sand-gravel mixture or crushed stone(at least 10 cm thick) to reduce and break capillary pressure. Under the foundation slab, waterproofing material or expanded polystyrene slabs are laid, which have practically zero moisture permeability. All concrete structures, which will be located in the ground, are protected by several layers of waterproofing.
7. Installation protective plate-visor to protect against rain splashes and the penetration of insects along the entire perimeter of the foundation, covering the entire upper edge of the foundation, will significantly improve the waterproofing of walls from the foundation in addition to standard polymer-bitumen materials.
8. Do not store firewood on the blind area along the walls of the building - this impairs the ventilation of the foundation and walls, which can lead to increased moisture in the structures.

Underground.

During the construction of newly constructed buildings, it is better to avoid the construction of underground floors, as thermally and structurally irrational elements, replacing them with the construction of floors on the ground, or with a slab foundation. If you want to have an underground, or if there is an underground in an existing building, the following measures are carried out to control the moisture entering through the underground:

1. Soil insulation. The soil under the building within the foundation is covered with bitumen-polymer waterproofing material, thick PVC or butyl rubber film. The overlapping edges of the film are glued to the inner surface of the foundation. The sheets are glued together with an overlap of at least 15 cm. If there is a pile or pile-grillage foundation, the soil is covered without gluing the waterproofing to the piles. The waterproofing material in the underground is covered with a 10 cm layer of sand or a 5 cm thick screed to ensure its mechanical protection.
2. Adequate ventilation of the underground space. If there is no insulation of the soil under the building, vents with a total cross-section of at least 1/400 (requirements of the International Building Code - 1/150) of the underground area must be installed in the foundation. Vents should be located opposite each other to ensure cross ventilation and no further than 90 cm from internal corners foundation. The minimum cross-sectional area of ​​one vent is 0.05 m2 (for example, 20 by 25 cm). If you have properly insulated soil, you can avoid vents in the foundation.

Walls

1. The minimum recommended height of the foundation or plinth under the outer part of the wall should be 60 cm. If the height of the foundation is less, then it is necessary to protect the wall with a splash-reflecting canopy, or install walls overhanging the foundation with waterproofing of the lower edge. Also the lower 50 cm of external walls are made of mineral materials, or with finishing made from them, can be protected from moisture with a calmatizing hydrophobic impregnation.
2. The walls to which the roofs adjoin can be protected with a layer of waterproofing and covered with a wall metal profile.
3. The lower parts of the external walls should not be covered with tall plants and firewood should not be stored nearby, as this impairs air circulation and the natural drying of the walls. In addition, deposits, reflected from objects near the outer walls, can land on areas of the walls less protected from moisture.

Particular attention should be paid hydro-vapor barriers around windows and doors. Windows should be equipped with drip sills that prevent droplets from flowing down the lower surface of the sill toward the walls. Most windows and doors are now installed using polyurethane spray foam. Polyurethane foam with an open cell structure is not an obstacle to vapor transfer and moisture penetration.

Therefore, immediately after curing polyurethane foam should be covered with vapor barrier tape from the inside and waterproofing vapor-permeable tape from the outside. To seal gaps, you can use pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tapes - PSUL. It is better to additionally insulate the slopes around windows and doors to prevent them from cooling and the formation of condensation.

Exterior decoration and curtain facades on the walls.

The basic rule for constructing multilayer walls to prevent their overmoistening is formulated in paragraph 8.8 of SP 23-101-2004 “Design of thermal protection of buildings”: To ensure best performance in multi-layer building structures with warm side Layers of greater thermal conductivity and greater resistance to vapor permeation should be placed than the outer layers. This means that the materials exterior finishing should not interfere with natural vapor transfer through wall materials. This situation may arise with the outer coating of vapor-permeable wall materials, such as autoclaved aerated concrete, vapor-tight insulation, brickwork, plasters and paints, installation of suspended vapor-tight facades without ventilation of the gap between the walls and the facade.

Flat ledges on the walls, not equipped with protective canopies or slopes to drain water, ledges with a negative slope on the walls are a place for precipitation to collect, with subsequent moistening of the walls and the penetration of moisture into the house by capillaries. Uncleaned gutters result in overflowing water hitting the walls.

Internal vapor barrier of walls. The main purpose of internal vapor barrier is to reduce or prevent vapor transfer through vapor-permeable wall materials. The installation of proper vapor barrier is especially important for preserving the properties of porous, cellular and fibrous thermal insulation or structural thermal insulation wall materials. When thermal insulation materials are moistened, their thermal conductivity increases exponentially. The main mistake made when installing a vapor barrier is the lack of sealing of the joints of sheets of vapor barrier materials and their abutments to walls and structures. Be sure to seal any holes or punctures in the vapor barrier that may occur during construction. Vapor barrier material by itself is able to withstand only the diffusion transfer of moisture. However, as is known, 98% of moisture is transferred not by diffusion, but by air currents. In the presence of microgaps and cracks in joints and abutments, the effectiveness of vapor barrier is significantly reduced, and the risk of moisture in wall materials increases significantly. A continuous additional layer of vapor barrier plaster or paint on internal surfaces premises will reduce the risk of dampening the walls from internal sources of moisture.

Cold attics. The main sources of moisture in attics are penetration and air leaks from underlying rooms through leaks attic floor. To ensure normal humidity conditions the attic must be well ventilated through ventilation openings in the gables, dormer windows. It is recommended that at least half of the ventilation openings be 1 meter higher at the ridge in relation to the rest. IN hip roofs Ridge ventilation must be provided. To prevent condensation, all passing through cold attic ventilation and chimney pipes must be insulated. It is prohibited to vent the exhaust ventilation of premises into the attic space.

Warm attics. The main mistake when installing warm roofs is insufficient ventilation gap, lack of ridge ventilation and blind filing of overhangs, blocking under-roof ventilation. Existing ridge vents, roof vents and soffit perforations can become clogged with pollen, cobwebs and leaves, leading to poor ventilation in the under-roof space of warm roofs.

Control of internal moisture sources.

A significant contribution to the increase in humidity can be made by open or hidden (in walls, ceilings, underground, ground) leaks water pipes and sewerage. You can determine the presence of a hidden water supply leak using a water flow meter, which will show water consumption when there is no consumption.

It is necessary to provide for drying clothes on outdoors, either in dryer. Open aquariums can be closed with a lid. A supply of firewood should be stored in the house for no more than 1-2 days. When a large number of people live in a small room, you can use a mechanical dehumidifier.

Conclusion.
You should think about controlling humidity in a house at the stage of its design, providing all the necessary structural barriers for the penetration of moisture into the house and its structures, both outside and inside. The layout of the house, the location of windows and doors, elements of natural and forced ventilation should facilitate effective air exchange and removal humid air.

A thoughtful analysis of the causes of high humidity in an already built house will help you make the right decision about possible ways solving problems with excess humidity.

The fight against high humidity in the house must begin as soon as possible. warning signs. To prevent the appearance specific smell in the home, damage to property by mold, deterioration of health, it is important to find the causes of dampness.

Proper waterproofing of the house

On initial stage construction, pay special attention to horizontal insulation of the foundation. Especially if there are prerequisites for increased moisture formation, high groundwater levels, the presence of reservoirs, and frequent precipitation.

If horizontal insulation is done only at the time of construction, then vertical waterproofing of the foundation can be done when the house is rebuilt. Principle of work: a trench is dug around the building, and the foundation walls are coated with a waterproofing compound. Depending on the materials used, waterproofing can be:

• Coating. It is carried out using liquid compositions based on bitumen and mastics.
• Rolled. The foundation is covered with insulating material on a paper or synthetic basis. The most common roofing material.
• Plastering. TO cement mortar the polymer component is mixed.

Insulation

In the autumn-winter period, high-quality external or internal insulation of the house will protect you from moisture coming from outside. Popular and cheap insulation foam, basalt fiber, mineral wool. Each has its own pros and cons.

Ventilation

In the event that major repairs are impossible for a number of reasons or it is established that the cause of dampness in the room is the slow release of humid air, correct and sufficient ventilation of the house or apartment will help eliminate or minimize the problem:

• Organize forced ventilation in the kitchen, bathroom, and toilet. It is more convenient when the built-in fans turn on automatically when the door is opened or the light is turned on.
• Mandatory tightness of plastic windows often causes a lack of ventilation. To remove moist air in the profile of a problematic window or doorway make additional small ventilation holes and install ventilators.
• Be sure to arrange regularly through ventilation all over the house!

Household dehumidifiers

This device is “ ambulance” for a damp house. The principle of operation of the dehumidifier is to condense excess moisture by cooling the incoming air flow. The condensate flows into a special tank, the air, devoid of excess moisture, is heated and returned to the room. Thanks to this, the house becomes drier in a very short time. In adsorption dehumidifiers, moisture is removed from the air by an adsorbent located in the device.

Features of choosing a dehumidifier:

• When choosing a dehumidifier for your home, consider the square footage of the room.
• Pay attention to the power, noise level during operation, and device design.
• Be careful when using appliances and do not dry out the air. Models with automatic operation are very convenient. The dehumidifier turns on itself if the moisture level is high and turns off when the required parameters are optimized.

Other ways to deal with dampness

To combat dampness:

• Try reducing air humidity using chemicals. Pour calcium chloride powder into small containers, 200 ml plastic cups will do, and place them in problem rooms.
• If only one wall is damp, most likely the reason is an incorrectly designed heating system. Connect an additional radiator to the “crying” wall.
• When eliminating dampness, do not forget to take measures to destroy mold and mildew.
• Use the hood when cooking.
• Household air conditioners help reduce air humidity.

The problem of high humidity is relevant even for individual panel rooms. How to remove humidity in an apartment so that it does not return, and your home becomes comfortable and safe again, you will learn from this article. There is no doubt that this problem needs to be solved as quickly as possible. After all, in such an environment, pathogenic mold develops, furniture and other things in the house deteriorate, and this is also not very beneficial for the structure itself.

Why does dampness occur?

The problem of how to remove the smell of dampness in an apartment can arise for several reasons:

1. Miscalculations in the design and construction of a house.
2. A large amount of laundry that is dried after washing.
3. Poor ventilation and infrequent airing of rooms.
4. Low air temperature in winter.
5. Flooded basement. High humidity threatens mainly the first and second floors. If ventilation is poor, dampness threatens the floors above.
6. Use of cheap building materials. Low-quality suspended ceilings, inexpensive plastic windows, vinyl wallpapers- all this turns the room into a box where moisture accumulates.
7. Incorrect placement of large household appliances and furniture around the apartment, which as a result blocks exhaust openings and interferes with normal air circulation.

How does dampness and high humidity manifest themselves?

If such a problem has arisen and you are deciding what and how to remove dampness in the house, you have probably noticed the following manifestations of increased humidity:

1. Characteristic smell.
2. Condensation on some surfaces.
3. Fungal mold.

Important! Such signs can appear either individually or in combination. The more there are and the brighter they are, the more aggravated the problem of how to remove humidity from the apartment.

How to find out why the apartment is damp?

Before starting action, you still need to determine where the dampness is entering the house from. There are several ways to find out:

1. If you live in apartment building, walk around your neighbors. If they have the same problem, then it’s all about the structure of the house and its incorrect design. If only you, then your problem is easier to solve.
2. Take the glass and press it tightly against the wall. Leave it in this state overnight. If in the morning droplets of water form on the glass from the side of the wall, then moisture penetrates from the outside.

Important! If you think that you can ignore the humidity and it will go away on its own, then you are mistaken. She will remind you of herself with many diseases and a spoiled mood. Fungal mold promises headaches, respiratory problems - and this is not a complete list.

How to remove moisture in the house?

You already know how to determine the source of the problem. Now, using this knowledge, start getting rid of dampness. If the problem is external, then take care of insulating the building. What you need to pay attention to:

1. Insulation of the outer wall.
2. Sealing seams between panels if the house is panel.
3. Covering the walls with a thermal insulation layer inside the apartment.
4. Carrying out antifungal treatment of surfaces.

How to remove the smell of dampness in an apartment?

If high humidity is caused by internal reasons, then you should take the following measures to neutralize it:

1. pay attention to ventilation system: Check the rod and clean it.
2. Ventilate your home as often as possible. It is better to do this in dry sunny weather.
3. Inspect all radiators and pipes for leaks. If you find one, fix the problem.
4. Install an air conditioner. It dries the air and in this case can be useful to you.
5. Turn on the hood every time you cook.
6. Be careful when choosing indoor plants. Give preference to those that do not need frequent watering.
7. When renovating your apartment, give preference natural materials. They are able to absorb excess moisture.
8. Buy a dehumidifier. It gets rid of dampness quickly and efficiently. When purchasing, pay attention to the power of the device. If it is high, then the device does not necessarily operate around the clock. It is enough to turn it on twice a week.
9. You can install an additional heater in the apartment, but this is only relevant for the cold season or for cold houses. In a warm room, such a device will only cause harm.
10. You can purchase some specialized synthetic products, such as “Stop Moisture”. They absorb excess moisture and are an excellent absorbent substance.

How to remove humidity in the house - folk remedies

For those who are interested in how to remove excess moisture in an apartment using folk remedies, the following method will be useful:

1. Take containers. It's better to have beautiful ones, because there is a chance that they will be in your sight.
2. Pour salt and sugar into different containers.
3. Place around the perimeter of your apartment.
4. Change the contents of the containers from time to time.

Important! Salt and sugar perfectly absorb moisture. But this is not entirely practical or advisable. Eliminate the causes excess moisture and the problem will go away. The main thing is not to retreat and not to spare money on repairs if there is a need for them. After all, your health and the health of your family depends on it.