home · Other · Installation of ceiling beams in the apartment. Decorative beams on the ceiling. The nuances of creating false beams

Installation of ceiling beams in the apartment. Decorative beams on the ceiling. The nuances of creating false beams

It's starting to come into fashion again. The functional need for such beams has disappeared, because the technology is long outdated, but this is what gives them a certain charm.

Wooden beams can be solid or hollow. They can be made from oak, ash and beech, as well as from cherry or pine needles.

Today's construction industry tools have reduced weight and added elegance and lightness to ceiling beams. Now their use is possible as in country houses, and in urban buildings.

Types of decorative beams

Scheme of decorative devices ceiling beams from MDF. They are often covered with veneer and may be accompanied by solid wood inserts.

Beams are divided according to their source material:

  1. MDF. Massive slabs consisting of pressed wood chips. MDF beams can be called economical. In addition, they are often covered with veneer and may be accompanied by solid wood inserts.
  2. Polyurethane. The most common type of beams due to their cheapness, low weight and large set design solutions. This type of foam plastic has excellent impact resistance and strength.
  3. Solid wood. Environmentally friendly, the most durable and durable type of beams. They are placed not only to achieve perfection in design. They are the ones who can perform their original function - carrier. Wooden beams can be solid or hollow. They can be made from oak, ash and beech, as well as from cherry or pine needles.

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Functional Application

Today, beams are often used only in the design field. Hence there are many options for their placement: on the ceiling, on the walls. They can be arranged in a certain order, creating a pattern or intersecting. Since the main function - support - has also lost its significance, the use of hollow materials is fully permitted. In addition, beams can hide unwanted ceiling defects and communication nodes. Visually, beams increase the height of the room.

Let's move on to general instructions for installation of decorative ceiling beams.

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Stages of installation of decorative beams

Ceiling beams made of polyurethane are the most common due to their low cost, low weight and a wide range of design solutions.

  • the first step is to mark the ceiling (the measured distance between the ceiling beams is transferred to the ceiling);
  • fastened wooden blocks which will serve as a frame (the sides should be adjacent to the marked lines);
  • the beam is selected the right size(if its length is not enough, then you need to attach several bars);
  • the beam is “slipped” onto the bars (the connection should be secured with self-tapping screws);
  • The joints can be masked using wax pencils or wooden overlays.

Do not forget that almost all manufacturers do not produce beams longer than 5 m; they will have to be joined. There are about 5 options for proper docking:

  1. Wrapping the joints with decorative rope.
  2. Sealing the seam with a large-section wooden ring.
  3. Connection using a wax pencil.
  4. Covering the holes between the joints with copper plates.
  5. Fastening the seams with decorative belts for forging.

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Preparation for installation

To install decorative ceiling beams we will need:

Layout of blanks for mounting decorative beams. The blanks serve as a frame.

  • roulette;
  • pencil;
  • miter box;
  • hacksaw;
  • assembly adhesive (liquid nails);
  • self-tapping screws;
  • dowels;
  • screwdriver;
  • drill;
  • wax pencil.

The first thing after purchasing a beam is to remove it from the packaging, put it in a secluded place and leave it for about a day. This is done so that the material “gets used” to the local microclimate of the room. Then the marking is done. If the dimensions do not meet the requirements, its length is adjusted using a tape measure, pencil, miter box and hacksaw. Remember that correction is suitable for all types of material except polyurethane.

After finishing preparatory work installation can begin.

Fastening products made of MDF or polyurethane is usually done liquid nails or assembly adhesive(if weight allows). And the connection of wooden (especially solid) blocks is done using self-tapping screws. Heavy beams should also be supported. This is done so that the entire structure does not sag. The length of the screws should be 4-5 cm longer than the beam. Drill in the center of the beam through holes so that the distance between them is about 0.5 m. Then we move the beam to the wall and make marks at the holes, and then use a drill to prepare the holes for installing the dowel. Then the beam is finally screwed to the ceiling. Each joint is painted over with a wax pencil to match the color of the block.

Let's return to the docking. More often than not, one bar simply won’t do. There are two ways to properly join the parts: using “scenery” or a tight fit. The first method is to simply hide the joint between the parts by installing some kind of overlay. The second method is simpler - if your block is made of MDF material or simply has a dark structure, then a small chamfer (a couple of millimeters) is removed along the edges. The distance between the beams should be minimal, they are fastened tightly, and if the connection remains noticeable, it is masked with a wax pencil.


The strength of load-bearing roof systems must be given Special attention, since the protection of the building from bad weather depends on it. Mistakes made when attaching rafters to beams can lead to big troubles, including repairing the roof or even dismantling it and creating a new frame. Rafter beams are irreplaceable part the entire roof structure. They are made of wood and metal; reinforced concrete rafter beams are also available for sale.

When developing a roofing project and when creating it, many factors that create loads on rafter structures are taken into account, among them:

  • weight of the covering and other elements of the roofing “pie”;
  • wind force;
  • the greatest possible thickness of snow on the roof;
  • the presence of equipment and other loads on the frame.

The main elements of the roof structure that bear the most loads include:

  • rafter system or truss;
  • composite beams.

Of course, the quality of the material from which the above materials are made is of great importance, but no less important is the strength and reliability of the connection of the roof elements to each other.

I-beams

I-beam wooden beams- This construction material, which is used for the construction of buildings according to frame technology, as well as for the installation of floors. They do not have the disadvantages inherent in wood, and due to the presence of an I-section, high strength characteristics are achieved. The joining of I-beams is done using carpentry tools.

Methods for attaching rafters to walls

Today, the main options for installing rafters and attaching them to the walls of houses are as follows:


Rafter Fasteners

For assembly truss structure use wooden elements And hardware. Wooden fasteners include: bars; triangles; dowels, etc.

Metal fasteners include nails, bolts, angle iron, screws, studs, clamps, staples, special rafter devices called skids or sliders, and more.

WB beam fasteners are used when installing load-bearing beams for wooden structures when building wooden houses. Its advantage is that it does not require cutting into the beam, and fastening is done using nails, screws or anchor bolts.

Methods for attaching rafters to the Mauerlat

The most common way of attaching rafters at the bottom is to connect them to the Mauerlat (read: ""). Despite its popularity, not every builder will be able to perform such work efficiently, and this cannot but affect the strength and reliability of the roof.

Before attaching the rafters to the mauerlat beams, a special cutout is made at the bottom of the rafter leg. It is impossible to install rafters without this, since at the slightest load the flat edge of the beam will slide off the surface of the beam. As for the notch in the Mauerlat, whether to make it or not depends on the material it is made of.


In case of using hard wood hardwood, experts recommend making a cut in the beam - it, together with the slot made in the rafter leg, will create a persistent lock. When the Mauerlat is made of coniferous wood, it is not advisable to make slits, as they will lead to a weakening of the structure. The condition of the roof in different weather conditions depends on the way in which the beams are attached to the mauerlat (read also: " ").

Connection between beam and rafter leg

The roof of the house, under the influence of loads on it, tends to move apart and down. To prevent this, various Constructive decisions, preventing the movement of roof frame elements.

This is how cutting out recesses in the rafter legs was invented, which can be done using connections such as:

  • tooth with one stop;
  • tooth with a spike and stop;

Attaching the rafters to the mauerlat, watch the video:


A notch with one tooth is used when the roof has a large slope angle. This means that the rafters are attached to the floor beams at an angle greater than 35 degrees. A tooth with a spike is cut out in the leg, and a nest is created in the beam for the spike to enter. In this case, the depth of the notch cannot be more than 1/3 or 1/4 of the beam thickness, otherwise the element will weaken. The cutting is carried out at a distance of 25 - 40 centimeters from the edge of the beam, then the possibility of chipping will be avoided. To prevent the connection from moving sideways, a single tooth must be created together with a tenon.

A notch with a double tooth is performed for flat roofs, when the angle between the connection elements does not exceed 35 degrees, it is performed in one of the following ways:

  • two spikes;
  • stop without tenon;
  • emphasis complemented by a spike;
  • connection like a lock with two spikes and other options.

The mortise depth is usually the same for both teeth. But in some cases, the first tooth supplemented with a tenon is cut into 1/3 of the thickness of the beam, and the second - 1/2.

When creating roofs, this method of arranging rafters is encountered when the rafter legs and wooden ceiling beams are connected, but it is rarely used. In this case, a stop tooth is cut in the leg so that one of its planes rests on the flat edge of the beam, and the other plane rests on a cut made with a depth of 1/3 of the thickness of the beam. For reliability, in addition to cutting, they perform additional connection using clamps, bolts, wire loops or strips of metal.

Connection of rafters at the roof ridge

Currently in the construction industry when creating rafter system There are 3 ways to connect rafters on a ridge:

  • butt connection;
  • installation on a ridge run;
  • overlapping fastening to the ridge girder.


To understand which option is preferable, you need to understand how they are performed.

Butt connection . Upper part The legs of the rafters are cut at an angle that is equal to the angle of inclination of the roof and rest it against another rafter leg, which is also trimmed only in the opposite direction. This work is carried out according to a pre-made template. In some cases, to ensure greater tension in the stop, trimming is performed during installation, with the cut being made through both bars, as a result of which the two planes fit tightly against one another. Then the rafters are connected to each other using long nails.

When this method is used, a metal or wooden plate is used for additional fastening - it is installed with bolts or nails are driven into the joint.


Installation on a ridge run . This method is in many ways similar to the previous method. The difference lies in the installation of the ridge beam. This type is reliable, but it cannot always be used, since it requires additional installation support beams and then the attic is not very convenient to use.

This option allows you to carry out the installation of each pair of rafter legs directly on site without preliminary work or the use of templates. The upper edge of the leg in this case rests against the ridge beam, and the lower edge rests against the mauerlat.

Overlap fastening to ridge purlin . The work is carried out similarly to the previous option, only the upper joint of the rafters is overlapped. They touch at the top not with their ends, but with their sides. Fastening elements are bolts or studs.

Repair of truss structure

A private house It can be used for decades and often a situation arises when it is necessary to repair elements of the rafter structure. Condition of the roof frame and roofing must be constantly monitored, since their destruction leads to big troubles. If defects are detected, emergency measures must be taken.

Problem: the end of the rafter began to rot , resting on the mauerlat. In such a situation, a log is placed on the floor of the attic; it must rest on several beams (the installation of the floor beams must be reliable). Place struts under the rafter leg being repaired so that they rest against the log. The distance between the extreme strut and the place of decay should exceed 20 centimeters. After the damaged section is removed by sawing, a pre-prepared liner is installed in its place.

Problem: wood rot was found in the middle of the rafter . In order to strengthen the truss structure, wooden overlays made of boards 50-60 millimeters thick are nailed on both sides of the damaged element. Nails for fastening are driven along their edges into the undamaged part of the rafters.


Problem: the power plate is damaged . When this is a small area, experts advise installing struts with a rafter leg attached to them using brackets. The struts are mounted with support on the undamaged part of the mauerlat. If the area of ​​damage to the Mauerlat is significant, then an overlay of boards is nailed to the rafter leg, which in turn is attached to a new Mauerlat, which is installed slightly lower than the damaged one. An additional Mauerlat is mounted into the wall using pins, and is carried out in accordance with the project.

Problem: a crack has appeared in the rafter leg , as a result of which the roof deflected. To carry out the repair, you need to prepare 2 boards, one of them will become a squeezing rack, and the second will be a support for it. The support board is attached perpendicular to the load-bearing beams of the attic floor. The squeezing rack is installed on a previously fixed support and brought under the deflection of the leg. Between the end of the squeezing stand and the support board, 2 wedges are driven in, one towards the other. They continue to be driven in until the deflection is eliminated. At the place where the crack is located, two boards are placed, the length of which is at least a meter longer than the size of the damaged area. They are secured with bolts. Then the wedges are knocked out and removed support board and a temporary stand.

Problem: reinforcement of the rafter system is required , because new roofing material heavier than before. To do this, increase the main section of the rafters, building it up with boards. What amount needs to be increased (but not more than 5 centimeters) is determined using calculations (read also: " "). The gasket and rafter are connected using nails.

In this part of the DIY plank frame series, I will talk about installing ceiling beams and permanent jibs. Since the span of the ceiling beams was too large, more than 6 meters), it became necessary to make another beam (ceiling and floor) - perpendicular to the others. So I will also consider correct device cross beams of the floor and ceiling.

Installing the ceiling and floor cross beam

In Figure 1 below, you can see that a partition is provided at the location of the beam. The cross beam in Figure 1 is shown in red.

I made the floor cross beam so that the floor joists would subsequently lay on it without cuts. As can be seen in Figure 3, the floor cross beam is made of several bars held together with self-tapping screws. The bars are 50x70 mm, 5 bars are taken, the total width of the floor cross beam is 250 mm, the height is 70 mm.

Installation of longitudinal ceiling beams

After installing the ceiling cross beam, I installed the ceiling longitudinal beams.


Fig 4. Longitudinal beam of the ceiling

I made longitudinal beams from the same board, 50 mm thick and 150 mm wide. At the ends of the longitudinal beams resting on the external walls, I made a 50/50 cut under the top beam (visible in Figure 4). And those ends that lie on the cross beam were simply fastened together using a piece of board and attached metal corner To cross beam(slightly visible in Figure 5).


Fig 5. Extreme ceiling longitudinal beams attached to the beam

The distance between the longitudinal ceiling beams was made 1200 mm to match the size of the rolled thermal insulation. I positioned these beams in such a way that not a single beam would stand above the window opening; for this, the step had to be taken in some places a little less, and in some places a little more.

Important: if you are going to make a living floor above the ceiling, often walk on the ceiling, store some things in the attic, then with spans like mine of 4 meters and 150 mm thick boards, the step needs to be made smaller - 600 mm or added beams later.

I pulled the outer longitudinal beams of the ceiling with self-tapping screws to the side of the beam, so that they became in the same plane with the wall. Projection of beams beyond external wall provided for 300 mm, can be seen in Figure 6.


Fig. 6. Ceiling beams protrude 300 mm beyond the load-bearing wall

My ceiling beams also serve as a support for the rafters, which is why the 300 mm protrusion is made. To install rafters on them, a 50\50 mm block was placed on top of the ends of the beams with a distance of 50 mm from the edge (Figures 7 and 6).


Fig 7. Block for installing rafters

Design and installation of permanent jibs

At the same time, I made constant jibs on the walls, thus:

I applied a board 100 mm wide and 25 mm thick to the wall studs and outlined it with a pencil. Then he made cuts in the racks and cut out recesses in them with a chisel.


Fig. 8. Notches in racks for jibs

After which on polyurethane foam screwed the same board with self-tapping screws.


Fig. 9. Installation of permanent jibs


Fig. 10. Installation of permanent jibs

Here are the main points that I tried to take into account when locating and installing permanent jibs:

  • I tried to position the jibs so as to “grab” all the frame posts with them;
  • as a rule, he began to jib from the middle post to the corner with a rise to the corner (seen in Figure 11);
  • the beginning of the jib was raised from the bottom trim by approximately 500 mm;
  • on the wall with windows, the jib started from the corner with a rise to the window opening in order to additionally secure the stand forming the opening;
  • between the windows I placed the jibs randomly.


Figure 11. Frame posts with permanent jibs In the next article in the series Do-it-yourself frame made from boards. Assembly and installation of the rafter system, we will talk about the assembly and installation of the rafter system.

  • Many homeowners are looking to build their country houses on one's own. There comes a time when they are faced with the question of whether it is possible to build a roof with their own hands and how to do it. In any case, it is important to remember that this work is quite labor-intensive and requires a competent approach and strict adherence to a certain sequence.

    One of important stages erecting a roof is considered correct installation and fixing the murlat. This is a specific support that absorbs part of the force created by the roof structure.

    Installation

    To construct the murlat, wooden beams are used, which are laid in a plane parallel to the future ridge. They begin to install it during the construction of walls. For example, in the case brickwork you can do this:

    • closer to the top, approximately 4–6 rows below the edge, lay a thick wire at intervals of 1 m;
    • the wire is firmly fixed inside the masonry in the center;
    • the length of the free ends should be sufficient to subsequently wrap around and tie around the support beam without any problems;
    • after construction is completed, visible parts of the fasteners are hidden, for example, by applying a layer of plaster.

    On a note

    The Mauerlat is installed with a minimum distance from the edge of the walls. It must be more than 10 cm.

    To prevent rotting of the murlat beams, they are waterproofed by laying roll material roofing felt type.

    When arranging the Mauerlat along the perimeter of the walls, it is necessary to check not only the reliability of the fixation, but also the horizontalness of the support beam.

    Is a Mauerlat needed if there are beams?

    When hanging rafters rest on floor beams that are laid directly on the wall, then with such a device serious point forces arise that act on building construction. As a rule, a similar approach is practiced when constructing wooden house. In this case, this is justified, since due to the horizontal arrangement of the logs and beams used in the construction of the walls, the loads they experience are evenly distributed.

    For brickwork or when using cellular blocks, undistributed pressure can be disastrous - in places where the floor beams are located, the walls begin to crumble at the edges. It is for this reason that the pressure should be dispersed. To do this, it is recommended to lay murlat on its comb, which is made from thick wooden beam. Thus, the positive answer to the question of whether a Mauerlat is needed for floor beams in such structures is beyond doubt.

    If the roof structure involves the connection of rafters and floors, then it is first necessary to ensure reliable fastening of the floor beams to the mauerlat. The latter will actually be assigned the unloading function.

    Fastening sequence

    After arranging the murlat, they proceed to laying and fastening the ceiling beams to the Mauerlat.

      • Parameters such as the cross-section of the structural beams and the installation pitch are calculated when designing a house based on the optimal cross-section and pitch of the rafters. For example, if the rafters are supposed to be made from boards 5 by 15 cm, then the distance between these elements is chosen equal to 0.6 m. This best option, especially since the width thermal insulation material also equals 0.6 m.

    How to secure

    After cutting into the murlat, the ceiling elements are secured to each other using nails, perforated steel corners for screws or self-tapping screws.

    To begin with, the beams are temporarily fixed. This is quite easy to do. Not far from their ends, a board is laid in the transverse direction, preferably even two, and nailed using nails. If you lay two boards side by side, then moving along the floor while installing the roof will be much easier.

    Temporary fixation increases the reliability of the main one, as it prevents the part from moving.

    Finally, watch how to attach beams to the mauerlat video:

In this part of the story about construction frame house We will look at the installation of floors in the house. How to build a ceiling with your own hands? Read carefully!

Floors can be different - interfloor, attic and, as in our case, attic.

Suitable for a single-level frame house wooden floor. Its construction is simple to implement and you do not need the help of any lifting mechanisms.

Materials:

  • logs or beams for ceiling beams (only coniferous wood is suitable, and the logs must be well dried for three to four months)

the required size of beams (made of timber) is indicated in the table:

  • edged tongue and groove boards (coniferous, 25-28 mm thick)
  • timber for racks (coniferous, section 100×80 cm)
  • fastening material (construction bracket, nails 2 times longer than the thickness of the ceiling board used)

Installation of ceiling beams

  1. At the ends of the beams, make a quarter cut along the entire width of the beam; the length of the cut should correspond to the width of the corresponding top beam connecting the frame of the house
  2. The selection must be made simultaneously on all beams, after which you can begin installing the beams
  3. It is best for you to install ceiling beams using the so-called “lighthouse” method. First, you install the outer beams in place, then the intermediate ones. Next, you should check the correctness of their installation using a building level.
  4. You can attach the beams to the timber connecting the frame of the house using metal or wooden spikes, long nails (at least 150 mm) or construction staples.

Note: for the installation of a ceiling, it is better to use beams that have a solid length - without joints, paired boards 50 mm thick can also be used as beams, fastened together using fastening materials having threaded connection(for example, bolts).

Installing supports for ceiling beams inside the house
The procedure for installing timber supports for ceiling beams must be thought out in advance, in accordance with the layout of the house (how your rooms, kitchen, etc. will be located).

This is necessary so that the supports for the ceiling beams can later be used to construct interior partitions.

Before installing the supports, you should make preliminary markings on the floor and lay the timber along it ( bottom base partitions). It is necessary to make grooves in the timber in advance for the joint with the support posts, in which a counter connecting groove must also be provided.
When the bottom beam is attached to the floor, you can install the supports (they must be the same length)
Fasten the timber support and the ceiling beam together on both sides using a construction staple.

Important! The design of the floor for installing partitions on its surface must be reliable. In the previous article we already looked at the construction of floors. So, the frequency of installation of supports under the logs and the logs themselves should correspond the smallest number their distance from each other (you determine the distance yourself, because the number of joists depends on the total area of ​​the house).

Attaching boards to ceiling beams

  • Attach the boards to the ceiling beams, starting from the wall of the house, so that it is convenient to insert the tongue of one board into the groove of another. Accordingly, the groove of the board should be located inside the house.
  • Attach the boards to the beams using nails (if the thickness of the board is 30 mm, then the length of the nail should be at least 60-70 mm).