home · Installation · DIY wooden beer mugs. DIY wooden beer mug – photo. Large beer mug

DIY wooden beer mugs. DIY wooden beer mug – photo. Large beer mug

Choose any round container the same size as you want your mug to be. Place the beams around it and connect them with adhesive tape. Leave the last section open, that is, do not complete the circle.

Now spread the resulting workpiece on flat surface and apply a little glue into the space between the beams. Roll the product again to form a circle. To secure the boards more tightly, use thick rope and a few hard objects that you have at hand, such as screwdrivers. Wrap the product tightly with a rope, tie solid objects to several ends to weigh it down. The main thing is to create pressure between the parts so that they touch tightly. Leave the product in this position to allow the glue to dry.

Now we need to make a handle for our mug. Approximate size 20 cm x 8 cm. It is best to make a sketch first. Transfer it to the handle blank and carefully cut it out. Sand the part using any grinding machine. When the glue dries, you can polish the surface of the mug itself. To give a more natural and original look, decorate the mug with stripes sheet metal small width. It is best to screw the part to the block at the base of the handle. You can also use decorative laces, rings, or cut a pattern on the surface. In general, the individuality of the mug will depend on the imagination of the master.

First, attach the handle to the main part of the mug. Do this using glue, liquid grapes, screws, etc. Then cut the bottom out of plywood or more hard material. It should be the right size, but you shouldn’t be too meticulous about its processing: no one is going to drink from a mug, which means it’s not necessary to ensure a reliable connection to the frame. Finished work polish.

How to make a beer mug from wood. DIY wooden beer mug. How to make a wooden beer mug without a lathe. Production wooden utensils has long been relegated to the category of exotic activities. And if previously in almost every village one could find a master of the art of turning, now only a few have such rare skills.

True, there are several methods for producing tableware without using a lathe. They are also widely used on an industrial scale.

In the meantime, let’s decide what materials and tools you will need to make your own beer mug without using a lathe.

1. Materials:
- trimmings natural wood or wooden board;
- safe wood glue, suitable for the production of food products;
- varnish for wood processing water based with durable waterproof coating or oil;
- glue for processing the inside of a mug, intended, among other things, for the production of tableware.

2. Tools:
- any of the available tools for sawing wood: a miter saw, a circular saw, a chainsaw, a jigsaw or a regular hand hacksaw for wood;
- belt sander;
- a drill with a cutter equal to the diameter of the mug;
- an angle grinder with a grinding disc designed for working with wood;
- clamps;
- sandpaper;
- cloth for removing excess glue;
- square ruler;
- pencil;
- a pair of patterns corresponding to the external and internal diameter mugs.

Step one: choosing material
The author used an old wall shelf that he got for free from a friend. Presumably it was made from Mahogany, so the output could be expected to have a rich and original wood texture.

He had to plane the oiled surface of the wood because it would prevent the parts from gluing together. Moreover, the origin of this oil is questionable for food purposes.

To work you will need a more or less solid board valuable breed tree. Wood scraps left over from previous work are also suitable. The main thing is that they are slightly larger than the final diameter of the beer mug.

Pay special attention to the degree of drying of the wood. In the production of such small products, this parameter is almost the key.

The wood should not be damp. It also should not be overdried, since in this case cracks will form on the surface.

Avoid areas with knots. They are very difficult to process and generally have completely different properties than the body of wood.

It would also be a good idea to pay attention to the smell of the material. Since you will be drinking beer from a mug, you would probably want to enjoy its aroma. Too strong a wood smell will overwhelm it.

Step two: Preliminary processing materials and parts manufacturing
All parts you make for gluing must be perfectly even and smooth. Therefore, carefully plan the boards and sand them using a belt sander.

The use of an angle grinder can cause indentations to appear on the surface, and this prevents normal gluing of parts.

The sides of the parts should be only slightly larger than the outer diameter of the beer mug. If you leave too much excess, you will have to spend a long time sanding the workpiece. Therefore, pay a little attention to the measurements.

Sawing parts can be done with any tool, including a hand saw. Smooth edges are not so important here, although they will facilitate the grinding process.

So, prepare the parts in such quantity that they are enough to reach the height of the mug. Clean them of dust and move on to the next step.





Step three: gluing the workpiece
If you have carefully processed the material, there should be no problems with gluing.

Pay special attention to the choice of glue. Don't forget that you are working with utensils that come into contact with food.

A particularly harmful composition of the glue can easily lead to poisoning, so consult a specialist regarding the composition.

Also, the glue must have exceptional waterproof properties, since the mug will have to be washed constantly.

Apply glue to each of the parts and carefully distribute it over the surface of the wood. Gather the squares together and secure them securely with clamps.

Excess glue should come out without creating too thick seams. Remove them with a damp, lint-free cloth and leave the workpiece to dry completely at room temperature.

Using the described principle, make a blank for the mug handle.





Step four: making the inner cavity of the mug
You should have two patterns on hand that would correspond to the outer and inner diameter of the mug. Use cups and glasses as patterns to get a perfectly even circle.

Make markings on the workpiece as shown in the photo below.

Start cutting out the cavity. To do this, the author used an electric drill with a cutter of a suitable diameter.

Do not take a small cutter, because no matter how hard you try, you will not be able to process the walls evenly enough.

Before you start cutting out the cavity, securely fix the workpiece so that it does not have the opportunity to move to the side or vibrate, otherwise the whole job will go down the drain.

Make a hole, leaving a flat bottom, and start shaping the mug.









Step Five: Shape the Mug
The author assures that there are many ways to cope with this task. The whole point is to remove as much excess material as possible before finishing the mug with a belt sander.

He used a grinder with a sanding wheel suitable for working with wood.

Clamp the workpiece securely and do this initial rough sanding before moving on to the next step.



Step six: making a handle
Make a drawing of the handle on paper and transfer it to the workpiece. Cut the handle into the desired shape.







Step seven: final sanding
Initially, the author used a belt sander. This allowed him to achieve perfectly vertically even edges.

Remove the area of ​​the wood where the mug's handle will be located. It should be flat.

Use fine sandpaper until the surface is perfectly smooth to the touch.





Step Eight: Secure the Handle
The glued planes must be perfectly flat and fit tightly to each other.

Apply glue to the handle and carefully press it to the pre-designated location. If the pressure on the handle was sufficient, the handle will hold like reinforced concrete. This is what the author himself assures.





Step Nine: Finishing
The author treated the outside of the mug mineral oil. You can also use natural oils odorless or water-based varnish.

Mineral oil highlighted the color and texture of the wood, and the glue did an excellent job. Therefore, the experiment can be considered successful. Feel free to take it into service!










At home ancient Rus' already in the 10th century they used those made using cooperage technique mugs, jugs, glasses and bowls. Such jugs and jugs are still made almost unchanged in our time. Jugs for kvass, honey and beer are essentially big circles, holding about a liter of drink. They usually had spouts and hinged lids. From large jugs that did not have spouts, drinks were scooped out with special wooden scoops. The word jug is much older than the word mug. If the jug is necessarily a wooden cooper's vessel, then the mug can be metal, clay, etc. The exception is measuring mugs that have a sufficiently large capacity. Modern measuring cups have a capacity of 1 liter. There are 10 - 12 mugs per bucket.

Nowadays, glued mugs are also made, which at first glance are no different from cooper's mugs. They are made of individual rivets and secured with hoops. However, this is just an imitation. The frame of the mug is turned into lathe.

For making wooden mugs A massive block is glued together from triangular wooden prisms. After the glue has dried, a hollow mug frame is turned out of it on a lathe along with a groove for the bottom, which is inserted onto the glue. After grinding, each of the prisms takes on the shape of a cooper's stave. Metal or wooden hoops are stuffed onto the frame and a shaped handle with or without a shaped lid is attached using round inserted tenons (dowels).

This mug is similar to a cooper's mug, but it cannot be used for water and drinks, as the glue may melt from moisture. Cooperage utensils are not only completely harmless, but also help drinks acquire special properties that improve their quality.

For making mugs, jugs and other cooperage vessels use wood ash, oak, linden, birch, alder, aspen, maple and juniper. Dishes made from juniper are not only beautiful, but also useful. Its aroma is reminiscent of allspice. The aroma is so persistent that it lasts long years. It is also absorbed by drinks poured into juniper dishes. By moistening the wood, the aroma intensifies. It seems that it comes not from the mugs, but from the drinks themselves - kvass, beer, etc.

For staves of juniper vessels, dried juniper trunks are prepared. Juniper is a very light-loving plant. It does not like darkness, so finding its dead wood in the forest is not so difficult. Juniper trunks are thin and may not split as needed, but the wood can be processed well with a knife, chisels, planers, chisels and other tools. To save wood, juniper staves in the frame of the mug can be alternated with linden, alder or aspen.

The best milk mugs are made from wood cedar and spruce, as it poorly absorbs liquid. Special substances contained in cedar wood contribute to the good preservation of dairy products.

For jugs, mugs, cones and other cooperage vessels, the frames are made in the same way as for any cooperage utensils shaped like a truncated cone. The proportions, sizes, shape of handles and lids will be individual.

For decorative vessels, the handle can have the most unusual shape. For example, a handle decorated with saw-cut carvings gives an elegant look to a jug, mug or bowl beautiful view. Such dishes can decorate the interior of any kitchen.

For manufacturing krzhek with a hinged lid, in the upper part of the handle, as well as in the ears of the lid, a through coaxial hole is drilled. The diameter of the hole in the handle should be 1 - 1.5 mm smaller than in the ears of the lid. Then a round rod, carved from hard wood, when connecting the handle to the lid, will hold firmly in the ears of the lid, but rotate freely in the hole of the handle.

The handle is attached to the frame using sockets cut into the riveting and secured on top with hoops. If the rivets are thin, then instead of this method of fastening, another is used, in which the handle is cut out of a whole piece of wood along with the rivet. After assembly, the frame seems to organically connect with it. The drain spout for the jug and cone is also cut out together with the riveting from one piece of wood.

For making lagoon– original cooperage utensils, in addition to the usual rivets, two special rivets are needed. The body of the product tapers upward and has the shape of a truncated cone.

One of the rivets is cut out together with the side handle, and the other is cut out with an eye protruding above the frame. A tubular spout is attached to the second rive at an angle of 45 degrees. This stave can also be cut from a single blank, which is a section of the trunk with a knot of suitable sizes.

If the spout is made separately from the rivet, it can be turned on a lathe or cut with a knife from round timber. To do this, a through longitudinal hole is drilled in a round piece clamped in a vice. First they drill from one end, and then from the other. Ready wooden tube trimmed and trimmed with a knife to give it a cone shape. Then a hole is cut in the rivet into which the spout is inserted.

It is best to cut the lid for the lagoon from a whole wide board. But it can also be made from 2 - 3 planks connected to each other with dowels. On one side, the lid is connected on a hinge or swivel to a side handle, and on the other, with a small lid covering the spout. A hole is drilled in the lid into which the eye of the protruding rivet should fit. To pour a drink into a vessel, remove the large lid; to pour it, remove the small lid.

The original cooperage vessel, which is called a lagoon, uses parts from dissimilar cooperage vessels. The long tubular spout was borrowed from an ancient 13th-century milk milk, the handle-bracket is the same as that of a birch bark tub, the side handle is like that of a jug, and the rivet with an eye is like that of a bucket or tub. By closing the lid with a latch, the lagoons can be lifted using the handle-bracket and also, if necessary, carried.

Thanks to the long spout that is narrowed towards the end, the contents of the lagoon can be poured into dishes with a narrow neck and into small dishes. The presence of two handles (side and top) makes pouring drinks easier. The vessel is lifted by the top handle and tilted forward by the side handle. Four rectangular holes are cut into the handle. The lower holes are used to secure the handle to the lid. One of them should be slightly smaller than the other. To ensure that the handle rests against the lid and does not fall through, small hangers are cut out from both ends. The ends of the handle are inserted into the sockets of the lid and secured from below with a birch wedge, which is driven into the holes located below.

The edges of the other two rectangular holes in the handle, located above, should be level with the surface of the lid. A latch cut from a birch block is inserted into these holes. One end of the latch should fit into the eye of the rivet protruding above the frame. If the latch is pulled out of the eye, it will immediately open. To make it convenient to move the latch with your fingers, a semicircular cutout is made in its block.

Lagoons are usually made from spruce or fir. The wood of these trees light and is easy to process. The finished dishes were painted oil paints. Sometimes the hoops were not painted, but covered with drying oil. The slightly golden wood of the hoops stood out beautifully against the multi-colored background.

The vessel will be very elegant if you decorate it with carvings or burn drawings on it. Wood can be processed and blowtorch or a burner, etc.

It is known for certain that there were no breweries in Rus', and the traditional drink of all Russians was mead. Beer that came from Germany began to be produced much later. They drank mead from wooden ladles - ducks and swans. When beer appeared, they began to focus on Western drinking culture, and that’s when they began to make wooden mugs.

The ideal vessel for beer tapers towards the top and holds at least half a liter of intoxicating drink. It is also necessary to learn how to pour it correctly - from a height of at least 3 cm from the edge of the vessel and certainly to the center. When pouring beer, you need to pause, wait until the foam thickens, and then add until it fills 3/4 of the mug.

Choose a mug made from good wood, for example oak. According to many experts, it is these trees that keep beer immaculately fresh, without changing its taste and color.

oak mug– an absolutely irreplaceable thing! In every similar institution of the ancient Russian people, she was always present. After visiting the steam room, they drank prepared kvass, special tea or herbal decoction from it. Such drinking, as is known, certainly increases medicinal properties bath procedure. Wooden mug is an ideal vessel in which to steam medicinal herbs. The infusion from the mug was poured onto hot stones or added to cosmetic or medicinal baths. Oak mugs on wooden tray create a special atmosphere of warmth and comfort in the bathhouse, an absolute attribute of a feast for real men.

A wooden beer mug made of oak with a capacity of 0.5 or 1 l is an absolute attribute of a feast for real men. Beer mugs as a gift - great way to please your beloved husband, respected boss and simply good friend. A wooden beer mug as a gift to a man on his birthday guarantees a lot of positive emotions!

Also TM "BONPOS" produces oak beer sets for 3, 4 or 6 mugs with original oak trays.

Don't miss the opportunity to purchase oak mugs for sets in our online store. For your convenience we provide more than 25 distribution points in Moscow, St. Petersburg, Nizhny Novgorod , as well as with the possibility of delivery to any region of the Russian Federation by a number of different courier services.

Every true lover of the Russian bathhouse has a wooden jug with chilled kvass in the dressing room, and on its lid there is a wooden mug. But even in a city apartment it’s nice to sit and drink cold kvass on a hot day. And kvass, you understand, is drunk from a wooden mug. We can make such a mug ourselves.

Wooden mug

From boards hardwood 30 mm thick, saw 12 boards 220x31 mm (coniferous wood will not work: the drink in a mug will be flavored with bitterness and a resinous aroma). At an angle of 12 0 we cut off the longitudinal edges of each plank so that in sections we get a trapezoid as in the figure.

We polish the boards. We stretch two strips of adhesive tape parallel to the table on the table with the adhesive side up and lay the boards across with their narrow edges facing up, placing them next to each other. A canvas is formed.

We coat the touching edges of the boards with PVA glue, take some cylindrical object as a template and cover it with our canvas so that the touching edges of the boards stick tightly to each other (for this you need a cylinder of a suitable diameter).

We tighten it tightly around the circumference with ropes or elastic bands.

When the glue is completely dry, sand the outside and inside. Then we tighten them with metal rings.

Now we cut out the bottom from the board, coat its edges with glue and insert it into the mug.

We cut out the handle and glue it.

All sharp corners sand and round with sandpaper. The wooden mug is ready.