DIY round wooden tray. DIY natural wood tray. Necessary tools and materials for making a wooden tray

This material is for romantics who like to arrange surprises and would not mind having breakfast in bed or just having a snack while sitting on the soft sofa. We have already talked about how to use it, and now it’s time to make a serving tray - and this time from wood. We have selected the easiest ones for everyone available methods, so you won't need carpentry talent.

Master class No. 1. A tray from a photo frame in 1 evening

The easiest way to make a tray with your own hands is to convert an ordinary photo frame into it.

Buy or remove a wooden photo frame from the wall suitable size. It’s good if you find a frame with a strong bottom and reliable fastenings, then you won’t have to change the backing and you can update the decor of the tray according to your mood.

So let's get started. Remove the cardboard backing, remove any excess and put the glass back in place.

Now you need to decorate the cardboard from the photo frame as you like. You can glue or simply apply decor from various materials. It could be: bright fabric, a piece of wallpaper, postcards, yellowed pages, a herbarium, etc. In our master class, the backing is simply covered with fabric and glued with a glue gun. Instead, you can use PVA or any other glue. After the decor is ready, place the backing on the glass and secure it (scroll the photo to the right).

Now you need to screw on beautiful furniture handles of the appropriate size. You can screw them either on the side or on top of the frame. To do this you will need the actual handles, 4 screws, a drill with a small drill and, of course, a screwdriver. First you need to attach the handles to the frame, align them, then mark the holes with a pencil, drill them with a drill with a suitable drill bit and finally screw the handles onto the screws using a screwdriver as shown in the photo below.

Well, that's it, your serving tray is ready! Or... almost ready.

• For reliability and to add weight to our tray (so that it stands level on a soft surface), it is better to additionally strengthen it from below. To do this, you need to take plywood, place a frame on it, trace it along the contour and cut it out with a jigsaw. The resulting workpiece must be sanded along the edges and then painted in a suitable color (pre-primed). Once the plywood is dry, all you have to do is attach the plywood to the frame with small screws, nails, self-tapping screws, or a furniture stapler. This tray will withstand even the heaviest breakfast in bed.

Based on this master class, you can make beautiful trays with the most different decor. For example, you can make a serving tray like this with a slate bottom, on which you can write romantic notes with chalk.

• The substrate can be painted either with slate paint or covered with chalk wallpaper.

Here are other decor ideas for both the frame itself and the backing. As you can see, you can come up with the most different designs– in a vintage style like Provence or shabby chic, in classic style or in a modern way, using fabric, photographs, colored paper, wallpaper, pages from books (scroll the photo to the right).

This master class will also be useful for making interior trays for magazines or dressing tables, where candles and books, or jewelry, cosmetics and perfumes can find their place.

Master class No. 2. Tray from the kitchen door in 2 evenings

You can make a serving tray with your own hands not only from a photo frame, but also from an old door kitchen cabinet, chest of drawers, bedside tables and other furniture. This tray takes a little longer to make, but it will be much more reliable, practical, durable and will hold more breakfast goodies!

The procedure is as follows:

1. Remove all loops.
2. Remove the old coating with coarse sandpaper.
3. At this stage outer part If desired, the tray can be brushed with a wire brush to remove soft fibers from the wood.

• this technique will make the surface of the door even more “old” and rough, but, on the other hand, the effect of dilapidation in the shabby chic and Provence style can be achieved without it.

1. We clean the door and its back side, and fill the holes from the hinges with wood putty or polyester putty. We also sand the patches a little and clean the entire door again. In principle, this step is not necessary if the holes from the fasteners do not bother you.
2. Coat a clean, dry door with wood primer in 1-2 layers. Each layer must dry thoroughly.
3. Now you need to take the sandpaper again, but with a medium grit and walk it over the entire surface.

1. Again we wipe the door clean and dry, and then we begin to paint our future tray. Using a small brush (non-fading!), cover the surface with 1 layer of paint. And here it is necessary to note a couple of nuances:

• if you want to make a tray or, then the first layer of paint should be dark, and the second and third should be light;
• if you want to paint the bottom of the tray with slate paint as in this master class, then before applying dark green paint, glue the outline of the bottom masking tape(see photo above);
• If you don't have a brush, a clean cotton rag will do the job.

1. When the first coat of paint is completely dry, coat the door with the finishing paint, the lighter one.

• To make a “chalk” tray at this stage (or after it), you need to apply the actual chalk paint first in 1 layer, giving it time to dry, and then in the 2nd layer. After the 2nd layer has dried, we again seal the edges of the slate bottom with tape and begin painting the door with the finishing paint (you can do the opposite - first apply the finishing paint, wait until it dries, and only then apply the slate paint).

1. Now the surfaces of the tray need to be sanded with fine-grained sandpaper, exposing the layer in some places dark paint(again, if desired).
2. And finally, we attach the handles: we mark the attachment points for them and tighten the screws. Woo-ala, the breakfast-in-bed serving tray is ready!

By the way, if you painted the bottom with slate paint as in this master class, then the resulting tray can be used not only as a serving tray with messages, but also as a board for menus and household notes.

Here are other ideas for making beautiful DIY trays from old wooden doors (scroll through!).

Necessary materials:
A board or piece of shield made of soft wood;
Wire brush / drill attachment + drill or screwdriver;
Brush to remove dust from the surface
stain
Artistic acrylic in several colors
Bristle brushes, flute
Palette or container for mixing paints
Container with water for washing brushes
Sandpaper (60 or 80)
Acrylic primer for wooden surfaces(or acrylic varnish diluted with water 1:1)
Acrylic varnish for finishing coating
Handles (for example, for furniture) and screws/screws for fastening them

A few words about the basis. Ideally, I would choose a board with interesting edges. But in winter time It’s difficult to find a nice board, but construction stores have furniture panels and there is free cutting with purchase. The disadvantage of the shield is that it is spliced ​​from several bars and a single relief on the surface will not work. True, when painting, which will be discussed, this will not be noticeable on the finished product. However, if you cover the wood only with stain and refrain from painting, it will be visible. But this material is easily available at any time of the year. I chose a 30*2000 shield and sawed it right there into 4 pieces - 4 blanks for trays.
For the first stage we will need a brush / drill attachment + drill or screwdriver. At this stage, we will remove soft fibers from the wooden surface, revealing a natural relief. It’s cheaper to buy a brush and use it - but it’s quite time-consuming physical labor. You can buy an attachment for a drill or screwdriver; it works much more efficiently. When removing soft fibers, a lot of wood dust is produced, so I highly recommend not doing this indoors. It’s most convenient in the country: there, as a rule, there are no problems with electricity near the house and you can use a drill. In the city it is quite problematic to find electricity on the street, so I used a screwdriver. This is convenient, except that its battery charge is not enough to process the entire board and it has to be recharged. But the dusty part of the work can be done outside.
Both the brush and the nozzle need to work the same way - run along the grain, and not across it. Then the soft fibers will be thrown to the side, and the hard ones will remain in place. Exactly how much to rub is a matter of taste, I get to work quite diligently, as a result deep grooves are formed, the relief looks like old wood, as if the board had been left outside for several years.




This is what the board looks like after processing


Use sandpaper (or a sander - this is more effective) to sand the edges of the board, this will give it a more finished look and protect the user of the tray from scratches that could be caused by sharp corners boards:


At the end of this stage, be sure to clean the board from wood dust with an elastic brush, cleaning it out of all the recesses. I use a slightly damp brush to avoid breathing in dust.

Now you can start painting. There are many options here, but in general the order is followed: the first step is to set the lowest, main color. The first layer must be laid with high quality and all the recesses must be painted over, it is in them that it will be visible on the finished product. I use a dark stain called "Old Wood" dark color will shine through and create an antique effect wooden base. In addition, the stain spreads very well over the fibers and fills all the cavities on its own, so you don’t have to worry about unpainted areas. Through testing and after a number of bottles of stains went into the trash, I chose Liberon stains. The most important advantage of these stains is their uniform distribution over the surface, without streaks or bald spots. I've come across stains that roll off the surface instead of absorbing into it and end up with unsightly stains that give away the color (when a good stain looks like the wood was that exact shade from the very beginning). There are hybrids of stain and varnish on sale; you can also use this option, in which case you can skip the next step (applying primer). I apply the stain with a flute brush (a wide bristled flat brush).


Even if you use the best stain in the world, it is better not to allow streaks to ensure that the color will be applied evenly.


A distinctive feature of good quality stains is that they exhibit the texture of wood, that is, soft fibers of the fabric, due to better absorption, are colored more strongly and become darker than denser, harder fibers. At the first stage, we created a relief, which is very successfully emphasized when painted.


After drying, the painted surface looks like this:


To be honest, every time I fight the temptation to varnish this beauty and not do anything else with it. But this is not sporting. Therefore, we continue and before the next stage (color application), I recommend covering the entire surface with an acrylate primer (from any company, most importantly suitable specifically for wooden surfaces). Because acrylic paints on water based, if you do not lay a layer of primer, the water will wash away the stain and the paint will turn dark, its brightness will disappear. The soil allows you to avoid this.




This is what happened - it could have been left in this form! What could be more beautiful than warmth? natural wood.






But let's continue! For the next layer we will need acrylic paint and bristle brushes, as well as sandpaper. The whole principle of painting is a cycle of actions “paint - skin”, these actions must be repeated until you like the result. By adding new shades that are close to the previous ones, the color can be made more complex and voluminous, achieving the feeling that the board has been painted several times over many years and the lower layers of paint are visible through the rubbed areas in the upper layers.

I advise you to choose a color for painting that is present in your interior as a primary or secondary color (depending on the background on which this element will subsequently be located). This color needs to be divided into two or three tones (the color present in the interior and two colors, lighter and darker in tone than the first), you can select and subsequently perform a couple of bright strokes. It is better to apply the most first light shade. Acrylic paint, although opaque, but in some places thin layer the paint will still show through. And a color laid over white or light paint will look brighter than the same color laid over a dark base. Thus, by applying a light shade first, we prepare the basis for a bright and rich second and subsequent layers. A little about acrylic paints: these are very easy to use water-based paints. They are odorless, dry within an hour, depending on the thickness of the layer, which allows you to work with them without interruptions. They have bright, rich shades in palettes different manufacturers, which can also be mixed with each other to obtain any shades. Thickened paint can be diluted with water. Brushes should be washed immediately after use under running water. If the paint dries on the brush, it will not wash off. You can choose acrylic paints from any manufacturer, but it is best to take art acrylic - it has dense consistency and applies well to the surface. Interior paints that can be tinted are also suitable. I do not recommend using cheap acrylic from office supply stores for children's creativity, it often comes across as slimy and rolls off the surface, making it completely impossible to work with. In my arsenal I have acrylic paints from Maimeri Acrilico and art acrylic from Ladoga and Gamma. The light blue shade is already in the Maimeri Acrilico palette, it suits me quite well, so I’ll start with it.


To work, I take a bristle brush with hard bristles. It is important not to wet the brush in water before work, otherwise the bristles will become soft and will follow any curve on the surface, when, as for me, it is important to preserve the darker, original color in the recesses of the relief. When painting a relief, hold the brush perpendicular to the stroke you are making (as in the photo); in this case, individual bristles will not fall into the recesses and, accordingly, paint them. The paint should be thick; if it is fresh, then there is definitely no need to dilute it with water. Squeeze out required amount paints on the palette, if necessary, mix several colors to obtain the desired shade. There should not be a lot of paint on the brush, it should be semi-dry. When applying paint, do not press hard on the brush; strokes should be made with light movements, lightly touching the bristles to the surface.
1st side of the board:




2nd side of the board:


Add acrylic colors as desired. We sand and paint as much as your soul and your taste require:


A few strokes of white:

After that I decide enough is enough. Finally, the board must be varnished - preferably acrylic too. They come in matte, semi-matte and glossy, and are sold both in art stores in small volumes and in hardware stores in liters. Acrylic varnishes do not change the shades of the base, also dry quickly and have no odor. I usually choose a matte or semi-matte polish.
After the varnish has dried, you will have to solve the most difficult question: which side will be the front. You can buy handles that can be easily screwed to the side of the board, and not through it, then you can turn the board over according to your mood. My version has a through mount, so it’s up to you to choose front side you have to think hard.

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What features should every tray have? Naturally, this is convenience and practicality. In other words, so that the food carried does not roll off it. The product provided in this article fully meets these requirements. The right color and material make the tray very beautiful and comfortable, so it fits into most modern styles.

To create a wooden tray, you don’t need to rack your brains over tools and materials; you can easily purchase everything you need at your nearest hardware store. Decide on the color of varnish and paint that will ideally match with. But you should understand that you need to avoid buying varnish with a very strong smell - this can harm your health.

Below are standard sizes tray, but you can choose the ones that suit you.

Wooden tray - tools and materials

There is a lot of work ahead, but don’t be afraid of it. By following our recommendations, you will definitely succeed! But first you need to prepare the following:

• jigsaw;
• electric drill;
• drill with a diameter of 2.5 cm;
• hacksaw with fine tooth pitch;
• hammer (where would we be without it?);
• roulette;
• massive scissors;
• a simple pencil;
• paint brush;
• a pair of rubber gloves and newspaper.

For a high-quality and reliable product, it is best to take hardwood. Red oak is ideal. Approximate thickness - 2.5 centimeters. In this case you will need:

• a pair of boards 9x32 cm;
• a pair of boards 6.5x56 cm;
• one board 32x61 cm.

Choose a varnish depending on the drying location. If the products will be dried on outdoors– you can take an oil-based varnish. Otherwise, opt for water-soluble varnish.

Manufacturing instructions

Initially, you need to make marks for future pens. There is nothing complicated here, just rely on the drawing.

Determine the middle on the board (9x32 cm), then step back to the left and right by 5 centimeters. You need to drill holes there. In our case, drills with a diameter of 2.5 cm play a very important role, since this will all affect the dimensions in the end. You need to drill only at right angles, avoiding uneven holes.

After you have drilled the holes, you need to bring them together with a simple pencil. Then go along these lines with a jigsaw, thus forming handles. Be sure to sand them down as they should be smooth.

Now that all the parts are ready, you can start connecting them. To do this, use 2 cm nails, glue and a hammer. After assembly, you also need to sand everything down, getting rid of any unevenness and roughness.

Only after this do we start painting - this is the simplest thing left for you to do. Prepare the surface, coat it with varnish and let dry. That's it, you have become the owner of a wooden tray with your own hands!

Many of us like to have a snack while sitting at the TV while watching something interesting film, but without a tray you can’t bring a lot of goodies at once, and the crumbs on the furniture and floor can cost you quite a bit from your better half)) It’s also convenient to bring breakfast to bed on a tray, waking up your loved one with the pleasant aroma of freshly brewed coffee. In general, the device is useful in home use.

Making a tray from wood is quite simple, for which you need to take boards from a pallet or wooden box, plan and sand them. Using wood glue and clamps, glue it into one whole board, and then make sides from poplar or aspen boards. The resulting surface is coated with polyurethane-based varnish, and the sides are painted with white paint.

So, let's look at what exactly is needed to make a tray?

Materials

1. boards from a pallet or wooden box
2. wood glue
3. screws
4. wood putty
5. polyurethane based varnish
6. White paint in a can

Tools

1. hacksaw
2. plane
3. grinder
4. screwdriver
5. brush
6. clamp
7. sandpaper
8. ruler
9. pencil
10 masking tape

Step-by-step instructions for making a tray from natural wood with your own hands.

As already mentioned above, the first step is to prepare the planks by disassembling the pallet or wooden box. Saw to the same size, process with a plane and sand.

Then the resulting blanks should be glued together into a single whole; this can be done using wood glue and clamps. The edges of each board are coated with glue and placed next to each other, when everything is assembled and coated, everything is tightened with clamps.

The boards should remain in this position until the glue dries completely, which is at least 24 hours, after which the clamps are slowly loosened and removed, and excess glue is removed from the surface using a chisel.

Then the surface is thoroughly sanded using grinder or regular sandpaper.

We remove all excess with a chisel and level it.

Then we carefully sand it with sandpaper so that there are no burrs left.

This box is twisted with clamps and remains in this position until the glue dries.

If you used self-tapping screws to assemble the structure, then the caps should be recessed in advance into the cavity of the wood by countersinking the holes, and then the screw heads should be filled with wood putty. This putty can be prepared independently, for which you will need carpenter glue and sawdust after sanding (fine ones) mixed with glue and brought to a homogeneous mass, it should turn out thick semolina)) and then we simply apply the prepared composition to the desired place and level it. No worse than the store-bought equivalent)

Excess glue is removed with a chisel and the surface is sanded with a grinding machine.

After which the tray must be painted and varnished, bottom part The master seals it with masking tape so that when applying paint from a spray can, no paint gets on it.

Painting work is best done in a well-ventilated area; if there is none, just go outside and paint. Don’t forget about basic protective equipment (respirator, gloves)