How to make an oak mug. DIY wooden mug. Large beer mug
It is known for certain that there were no breweries in Rus', and the traditional drink of all Russians was mead. Beer that came from Germany began to be produced much later. They drank mead from wooden ladles - ducks and swans. When beer appeared, they began to focus on Western drinking culture, and that’s when they began to make wooden mugs.
The ideal vessel for beer tapers towards the top and holds at least half a liter of intoxicating drink. It is also necessary to learn how to pour it correctly - from a height of at least 3 cm from the edge of the vessel and certainly to the center. When pouring beer, you need to pause, wait until the foam thickens, and then add until it fills 3/4 of the mug.
Choose a mug made from good wood, for example oak. According to many experts, it is these trees that keep beer immaculately fresh, without changing its taste and color.
oak mug– an absolutely irreplaceable thing! In every similar institution of the ancient Russian people, she was always present. After visiting the steam room, they drank prepared kvass, special tea or herbal decoction from it. Such drinking, as is known, certainly increases medicinal properties bath procedure. Wooden mug is an ideal vessel in which to steam medicinal herbs. The infusion from the mug was poured onto hot stones or added to cosmetic or medicinal baths. Oak mugs on a wooden tray create a special atmosphere of warmth and comfort in the bathhouse, an absolute attribute of a feast for real men.
A wooden beer mug made of oak with a capacity of 0.5 or 1 l is an absolute attribute of a feast for real men. Beer mugs as a gift - great way to please your beloved husband, respected boss and simply good friend. A wooden beer mug as a gift to a man on his birthday guarantees a lot of positive emotions!
Also TM "BONPOS" produces oak beer sets for 3, 4 or 6 mugs with original oak trays.
Don't miss the opportunity to purchase oak mugs for sets in our online store. For your convenience we provide more than 25 distribution points in Moscow, St. Petersburg, Nizhny Novgorod , as well as with the possibility of delivery to any region of the Russian Federation by a number of different courier services.
Every true lover of the Russian bathhouse has a wooden jug with chilled kvass in the dressing room, and on its lid there is a wooden mug. But even in a city apartment it’s nice to sit and drink cold kvass on a hot day. And kvass, you understand, is drunk from a wooden mug. We can make such a mug ourselves.
Wooden mug
From boards hardwood 30 mm thick, saw 12 boards 220x31 mm (coniferous wood will not work: the drink in a mug will be flavored with bitterness and a resinous aroma). At an angle of 12 0 we cut off the longitudinal edges of each plank so that in sections we get a trapezoid as in the figure.
We polish the boards. We stretch two strips of adhesive tape parallel to the table on the table with the adhesive side up and lay the boards across with their narrow edges facing up, placing them next to each other. A canvas is formed.
We coat the touching edges of the boards with PVA glue, take some cylindrical object as a template and cover it with our canvas so that the touching edges of the boards stick tightly to each other (for this you need a cylinder of a suitable diameter).
We tighten it tightly around the circumference with ropes or elastic bands.
When the glue is completely dry, sand the outside and inside. Then we tighten them with metal rings.
Now we cut out the bottom from the board, coat its edges with glue and insert it into the mug.
We cut out the handle and glue it.
All sharp corners sand and round with sandpaper. The wooden mug is ready.
At home ancient Rus' already in the 10th century they used those made using cooperage technique mugs, jugs, glasses and bowls. Such jugs and jugs are still made almost unchanged in our time. Jugs for kvass, honey and beer are essentially big circles, holding about a liter of drink. They usually had spouts and hinged lids. From large jugs that did not have spouts, drinks were scooped out with special wooden scoops. The word jug is much older than the word mug. If the jug is necessarily a wooden cooper's vessel, then the mug can be metal, clay, etc. The exception is measuring mugs that have a sufficiently large capacity. Modern measuring cups have a capacity of 1 liter. There are 10 - 12 mugs per bucket.
Nowadays, glued mugs are also made, which at first glance are no different from cooper's mugs. They are made of individual rivets and secured with hoops. However, this is just an imitation. The frame of the mug is turned into lathe.
For making wooden mugs A massive block is glued together from triangular wooden prisms. After the glue has dried, a hollow mug frame is turned out of it on a lathe along with a groove for the bottom, which is inserted onto the glue. After grinding, each of the prisms takes on the shape of a cooper's stave. Metal or wooden hoops are stuffed onto the frame and a shaped handle with or without a shaped lid is attached using round inserted tenons (dowels).
This mug is similar to a cooper's mug, but it cannot be used for water and drinks, as the glue may melt from moisture. Cooperage utensils are not only completely harmless, but also help drinks acquire special properties that improve their quality.
For making mugs, jugs and other cooperage vessels use wood ash, oak, linden, birch, alder, aspen, maple and juniper. Dishes made from juniper are not only beautiful, but also useful. Its aroma is reminiscent of allspice. The aroma is so persistent that it lasts long years. It is also absorbed by drinks poured into juniper dishes. By moistening the wood, the aroma intensifies. It seems that it comes not from the mugs, but from the drinks themselves - kvass, beer, etc.
For staves of juniper vessels, dried juniper trunks are prepared. Juniper is a very light-loving plant. It does not like darkness, so finding its dead wood in the forest is not so difficult. Juniper trunks are thin and may not split as needed, but the wood can be processed well with a knife, chisels, planers, chisels and other tools. To save wood, juniper staves in the frame of the mug can be alternated with linden, alder or aspen.
The best milk mugs are made from wood cedar and spruce, as it poorly absorbs liquid. Special substances contained in cedar wood contribute to the good preservation of dairy products.
For jugs, mugs, cones and other cooperage vessels, the frames are made in the same way as for any cooperage utensils shaped like a truncated cone. The proportions, sizes, shape of handles and lids will be individual.
For decorative vessels, the handle can have the most unusual shape. For example, a handle decorated with saw-cut carvings gives an elegant look to a jug, mug or bowl beautiful view. Such dishes can decorate the interior of any kitchen.
For manufacturing krzhek with a hinged lid, in the upper part of the handle, as well as in the ears of the lid, a through coaxial hole is drilled. The diameter of the hole in the handle should be 1 - 1.5 mm smaller than in the ears of the lid. Then a round rod, carved from hard wood, when connecting the handle to the lid, will hold firmly in the ears of the lid, but rotate freely in the hole of the handle.
The handle is attached to the frame using sockets cut into the riveting and secured on top with hoops. If the rivets are thin, then instead of this method of fastening, another is used, in which the handle is cut out of a whole piece of wood along with the rivet. After assembly, the frame seems to organically connect with it. The drain spout for the jug and cone is also cut out together with the riveting from one piece of wood.
For making lagoon– original cooperage utensils, in addition to the usual rivets, two special rivets are needed. The body of the product tapers upward and has the shape of a truncated cone.
One of the rivets is cut out together with the side handle, and the other is cut out with an eye protruding above the frame. A tubular spout is attached to the second rive at an angle of 45 degrees. This stave can also be cut from a single blank, which is a section of the trunk with a knot of suitable sizes.
If the spout is made separately from the rivet, it can be turned on a lathe or cut with a knife from round timber. To do this, a through longitudinal hole is drilled in a round piece clamped in a vice. First they drill from one end, and then from the other. Ready wooden tube trimmed and trimmed with a knife to give it a cone shape. Then a hole is cut in the rivet into which the spout is inserted.
It is best to cut the lid for the lagoon from a whole wide board. But it can also be made from 2 - 3 planks connected to each other with dowels. On one side, the lid is connected on a hinge or swivel to a side handle, and on the other, with a small lid covering the spout. A hole is drilled in the lid into which the eye of the protruding rivet should fit. To pour a drink into a vessel, remove the large lid; to pour it, remove the small lid.
The original cooperage vessel, which is called a lagoon, uses parts from dissimilar cooperage vessels. The long tubular spout is borrowed from an ancient 13th-century milk milk, the handle-bracket is the same as that of a birch bark tub, the side handle is like that of a jug, and the rivet with an eye is like that of a bucket or tub. By closing the lid with a latch, the lagoons can be lifted using the handle-bracket and also, if necessary, carried.
Thanks to the long spout that is narrowed towards the end, the contents of the lagoon can be poured into dishes with a narrow neck and into small dishes. The presence of two handles (side and top) makes pouring drinks easier. The vessel is lifted by the top handle and tilted forward by the side handle. Four rectangular holes are cut into the handle. The lower holes are used to secure the handle to the lid. One of them should be slightly smaller than the other. To ensure that the handle rests against the lid and does not fall through, small hangers are cut out from both ends. The ends of the handle are inserted into the sockets of the lid and secured from below with a birch wedge, which is driven into the holes located below.
The edges of the other two rectangular holes in the handle, located above, should be level with the surface of the lid. A latch cut from a birch block is inserted into these holes. One end of the latch should fit into the eye of the rivet protruding above the frame. If the latch is pulled out of the eye, it will immediately open. To make it convenient to move the latch with your fingers, a semicircular cutout is made in its block.
Lagoons are usually made from spruce or fir. The wood of these trees light and is easy to process. The finished dishes were painted oil paints. Sometimes the hoops were not painted, but covered with drying oil. The slightly golden wood of the hoops stood out beautifully against the multi-colored background.
The vessel will be very elegant if you decorate it with carvings or burn drawings on it. Wood can be processed and blowtorch or a burner, etc.
Project: August 2004
This is one of the very first attempts to openly show the manufacturing technology of one of their products online. This had never happened in practice before. Memories of the events of that time today bring a smile. Firstly, a carpenter with a camera - it’s hard to imagine then, but with a computer and Internet access - it’s completely nonsense. Secondly, not everyone is able to share their “secrets” and best practices, both then and today.
Since then I have purchased a lot of different things. modern equipment, has developed many new technologies. AND oak mug today it would look a little different, and the manufacturing technology would most likely change. But in memory of the product of that time, I decided to save this master class and transfer it to the pages of the new site virtually unchanged, although on the Internet parts of the original text are found in the descriptions of many sites...
Well, the story itself began with one order. The then still young company "Arena" for its Arena Beer House decided to order tasting trays, in which customers would be presented with four different varieties beer. The variety you liked should be served in wooden beer mug. That's when I developed the mug together with wooden tray. Wooden mugs were made in small quantities, and the tray remained in sketches (although the manufacturing technology was also worked out).
Below, as promised - original description from the old site:
“It all started with a conversation about wine oak barrels and so on. This gave me the idea to do oak beer mug. I had never encountered making mugs before, so I decided to make them using my own technology. After looking through a dozen websites about beer, I made a discovery for myself: for 50 ml of vodka, a glass with a capacity of 50 ml is enough, but beer still has its own foam. That's why beer mug should also be the case for foam. The beer fills about 3/4 of the mug. Accordingly, for 0.5 liters of beer, the mug should have a volume of about 0.8 liters.
So, let's get down to business!
I don’t know what Papa Carlo made his mug from, I decided to use a time-tested material - oak. For the manufacture of mugs it is necessary to prepare eight oak blanks measuring 150x60x15mm and one 135x70x25mm for the handle. It is necessary to end the bars at an angle of 6°, since the mug will have a cone shape. Yes, I almost forgot to keep the beer from spilling out, you need to bottom it. The mug also has a two-layer oak bottom. Two blanks 130x130x3mm. The direction of the first texture is located across the texture of the second workpiece. For the mug you will also need a copper strip approximately 900×13×0.7mm.
If you have prepared everything and still have the desire to make an oak mug, then go ahead!
The body blank must be shaped into a trapezoid with base dimensions of 59mm and top dimensions of 48mm. The ends are beveled inward at an angle of 22.5° degrees. A special feature is that the ends are processed for a tongue-and-groove connection! After processing, the workpiece will look like this.
Having previously cut the bottom to the shape of an octagon (the size depends on the depth of the groove), you can begin assembling the mug.Once assembled, give the top edge of the mug a thinner shape and round it off. It is also necessary to round the corners at the bottom end of the mug.
Now you need to make a handle for the mug. You can choose any form. For convenience, the edges of the handle should be rounded as much as possible. It is necessary to make holes at the ends of the handle for further attachment to the body of the mug.
The next stage of making the mug is attaching the handle to the body. Here we had to use unusual technology. We encircle the mug with copper strips with a printed pattern. We secure the ends of the strips to one of the planes of the mug using screws threaded through oak dowels. This fastening allows you to securely fasten the copper and dowels to the body of the mug. Next, press the handle onto the dowels. This method makes the connection of the handle to the body of the mug reliable and invisible.
Every year, thousands of plaques, or simply pallets, become unusable and end up on the fire or turn into wood chips.
However, few people think that, even broken in several places, it can serve for many years as a shelf or coffee table. You just need to apply a little skill and imagination. Today we will tell you how, for example, to make a souvenir beer mug and a woodpile stand from a pallet.
For people who are passionate about creativity, it is usually not difficult to find suitable material. Old ones are quite suitable for making various interesting things. unnecessary furniture, dry wood in the garden or forest.
And it’s not difficult to find an old pallet. Wooden pallets lying around in abundance near various shopping facilities. Therefore, it is enough to select a good, clean copy and slightly disassemble it for ease of loading into the car. Everything you have good material for making interesting crafts.
BIG BEER MUG!
To simplify production, we decided to take larger sizes and make a beer mug 150x220 mm. This is largely due to its gift nature and subsequent life as interior decoration.
To make a mug we will need:
- a piece of metal tensioning tape;
- 15 planks, cut from a pallet;
- paper tape or tape;
- handle for a mug;
- bottom of the mug;
- twine;
- glue.
STEP 1. Making planks
As mentioned earlier, there should be 15 strips. Their dimensions: width – 30 mm. length – 220 mm. Chamfering at an angle of 12 degrees on both sides. You can also refer to the schematic drawing we presented above
STEP 2. Trying on
Having made the strips, you need to try them on. To create a circle, just take a liter jar of paint (preferably empty). After determining the quantity, you need to connect them using tape or paper adhesive tape, leaving the ends free, as in the photo.
STEP 3. Sizing
Remove the resulting wooden mat from the can and place it on work surface with the adhesive tape facing down, coat all the strips together, including the outer ones, and before the glue hardens, put the structure back on the jar, tying it with twine.
STEP 4. Handle
While the glue dries, you need to make a handle. Note that the handle can be purchased ready-made or bent from iron, but you can also make it yourself. In our case, it turned out to be 200x80 mm in size. Cutting it out of a pallet is not difficult, but for
smoothing corners required grinding machine or active work sandpaper
STEP 5. Decoration.
This step is optional, but nice.
To decorate a dried workpiece, it is enough to pass two holes around its entire circumference at the level of the fastening future pen. A metal strip will pass through them, secured with short nails or screws that secure the handle to the mug. The main thing that needs to be taken into account when installing decorative rings is the tightness of the tape to the wood
STEP 6. At the bottom
The last step in assembling the mug is installing the bottom. The bottom of the mug should fit into the workpiece quite tightly and, if desired, it can also be coated with a small amount of glue. Immediately after installation, the entire structure must be wrapped with twine again and left alone until completely dry. Once dry, remove the twine and grind down the edges to give it a presentable look.
BY THE WAY:
Woodpile rack made from pallets in 30 minutes!
To assemble the rack shown in the photo, you will need a pallet measuring 1200x1600 (1800). However, if you need to stack a small amount of logs, a standard pallet measuring 800x1200 will do. Actually, when making such a rack, it is enough to use the screws with which the pallet was twisted, but to give it additional strength, we recommend purchasing four mounting plates 2 mm thick and securing them with inside every corner.
Such a rack can be installed both outdoors and near the fireplace, filling the house with comfort and eliminating the need to leave the house for firewood.
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