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How to make a cup out of wood with your own hands. DIY wooden mug. Large beer mug

Every year, thousands of plaques, or simply pallets, become unusable and end up on the fire or turn into wood chips.

However, few people think that, even broken in several places, it can last long years in the form of a shelf or coffee table. You just need to apply a little skill and imagination. Today we will tell you how, for example, to make a souvenir beer mug and a woodpile stand from a pallet.

For people who are passionate about creativity, it is usually not difficult to find suitable material. Old ones are quite suitable for making various interesting things. unnecessary furniture, dry wood in the garden or forest.

And it’s not difficult to find an old pallet. Wooden pallets lying around in abundance near various shopping facilities. Therefore, it is enough to select a good, clean copy and slightly disassemble it for ease of loading into the car. Everything you have good material for making interesting crafts.

BIG BEER MUG!

To simplify production, we decided to take larger sizes and make a beer mug 150x220 mm. This is largely due to its gift nature and subsequent life as interior decoration.

To make a mug we will need:

  • a piece of metal tensioning tape;
  • 15 planks, cut from a pallet;
  • paper tape or tape;
  • handle for a mug;
  • bottom of the mug;
  • twine;
  • glue.

STEP 1. Making planks

As mentioned earlier, there should be 15 strips. Their dimensions: width – 30 mm. length – 220 mm. Chamfering at an angle of 12 degrees on both sides. You can also refer to the schematic drawing we presented above

STEP 2. Trying on

Having made the strips, you need to try them on. To create a circle, just take a liter jar of paint (preferably empty). After determining the quantity, you need to connect them using tape or paper adhesive tape, leaving the ends free, as in the photo.

STEP 3. Sizing

Remove the resulting wooden mat from the can and place it on work surface with the adhesive tape facing down, coat all the strips together, including the outer ones, and before the glue hardens, put the structure back on the jar, tying it with twine.

STEP 4. Handle

While the glue dries, you need to make a handle. Note that the handle can be purchased ready-made or bent from iron, but you can also make it yourself. In our case, it turned out to be 200x80 mm in size. Cutting it out of a pallet is not difficult, but for

smoothing corners required grinding machine or active work sandpaper

STEP 5. Decoration.

This step is optional, but nice.

To decorate a dried workpiece, it is enough to pass two holes around its entire circumference at the level of the fastening future pen. A metal strip will pass through them, secured with short nails or screws that secure the handle to the mug. The main thing to consider when installing decorative rings is the tightness of the tape to the wood.

STEP 6. At the bottom

The last step in assembling the mug is installing the bottom. The bottom of the mug should fit into the workpiece quite tightly and, if desired, it can also be coated with a small amount of glue. Immediately after installation, the entire structure must be wrapped with twine again and left alone until completely dry. Once dry, remove the twine and grind down the edges to give it a presentable look.

BY THE WAY:

Woodpile rack made from pallets in 30 minutes!

To assemble the rack shown in the photo, you will need a pallet measuring 1200x1600 (1800). However, if you need to stack a small amount of logs, a standard pallet measuring 800x1200 will do. Actually, when making such a rack, it is enough to use the screws with which the pallet was twisted, but to give it additional strength, we recommend purchasing four mounting plates 2 mm thick and securing them with inside every corner.

Such a rack can be installed both outdoors and near the fireplace, filling the house with comfort and eliminating the need to leave the house for firewood.

It’s so nice to drink cool kvass from a wooden mug on a hot day or after a steam session in a bathhouse! I suggest you make it yourself.

You will need planks from hardwood wood: oak, birch, alder or other. Most importantly, do not try to make a mug from pine, otherwise your drink will be flavored with a resinous aroma and bitterness.

You will need to cut 12 boards 22 cm long and 3 cm thick. One side of the board should be shorter than the other in width to get a 12 degree bevel:

When the boards are sawn, sand them thoroughly.

Now take the tape and assemble the canvas, placing the boards next to each other with the inner short side up. Let's take some cylindrical template and coat the ends of the boards with PVA glue, and begin to assemble our mug:

Tie it tightly with ropes or an elastic band.

Carefully sand the mug inside and out when the glue is completely dry. We will tighten it with metal rings.

We cut out the bottom from the board so that it is flush, coat the end of the bottom with glue and insert it into the mug:

Let's cut out a handle (you can use it from pine, by the way) and glue it to the mug.

We sand all sharp parts and round them with sandpaper. You can treat the mug with linseed oil to make it beautiful warm shade. The main thing is not to use synthetic toxic compounds.

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The basis here is actually the master’s stainless traveling mug, so he decided to stylize it as wood. To do this, I took a pre-dried piece of wood (preferably the texture was beautiful) and turned a wooden glass on a lathe, into which I inserted my favorite metal mug.

Let's look at how the master made his mug? What exactly did he need for this?

Materials
1. wooden beam 10 inches (25.4 cm)
2. travel mug (stainless steel)
3. linseed oil
4. cotton fabric
5. wood glue or epoxy resin

Tools
1. wood lathe
2. set of chisels
3. brush
4. drill and 3 circular drills (to create a cavity in the workpiece)
5. sandpaper
6. hacksaw
7. ruler

The process of creating a wooden mug with your own hands
And so, the first thing, of course, is to find a suitable material, it is better if the pattern and texture of the wood is not uniform. Breeds suitable for this fruit trees(apple tree, cherry, bird cherry) their design is very beautiful and unique. You can also use “Cap”, the pattern of which is very similar to marble, but its wood is quite hard and difficult to process.

Then the workpiece must be dried under natural conditions. or in a special drying chamber(who has it) Attention! The wood must be absolutely dry before processing, but if it is not completely dried and wet, then it will simply crack and all your work will be a waste.

Many of you in school, during the Labor lessons, while studying in high school, studied a wood lathe and turned on it (rolling pins, balusters, candlesticks, door handles etc.) That is, they are familiar with the device and principle. But not everyone was allowed to turn (glasses and nesting dolls) on this machine, but those who were especially careful and attentive! Because during sloppy work on turning out the internal cavity, the workpiece often flew out, like a matryoshka doll, like a chisel)))

Next, the resulting beam needs to be marked using a ruler and a pencil in order to find the center by drawing 2 lines from corner to corner, the crosshairs will be the center. Centering must be strictly observed!!! A crooked marking is a potential blow to the forehead from a flying workpiece))) By the way, here on the site there are articles on making wood with your own hands

It is inserted into the guides and clamped.

The machine is turned on and the master begins to grind off the excess, giving the workpiece a cylindrical appearance.

Important point! On the left side, a “tenon” is machined, which will then be inserted into the clamping chuck and will hold the workpiece without 2 points of support.

Next, the internal cavity is drilled with drills; for this, the author uses 3 drills of different diameters, starting with the smallest one. Afterwards, the inside must be sanded using sandpaper placed on a stick - this is necessary for subsequent sharpening in order to ensure a smooth surface.

Use a chisel to sharpen inner part.

Periodically, the master applies the bottom of a metal mug so as not to wear off excess. Once again I stopped the machine to evaluate the work done.

The surface of the wooden glass is sanded using sandpaper.

And so, the inner part is sharpened and now the master uses a hacksaw to cut off the tenon.

Next, the master takes his stainless steel travel glass and covers it epoxy resin, you can also use glue that is not afraid of temperature effects. Attention! Do not use toxic types of glue like “Moment” because when you pour boiling water into the mug, the metal will heat up and this glue will begin to evaporate its chemical elements. Be careful!

The epoxy-coated surface is placed in a wooden glass.

Then you should wait until the adhesive dries, and then the master places the glass back into the clamping chuck lathe, this is necessary in order to level the bottom of the travel mug as much as possible.

And one more strict instruction from the author!!! Don't cover wooden surface stain and all kinds of varnishes (because they contain chemistry) The only thing that can be used to give a more noble look to wood is “linseed oil”, which the master successfully did without removing the mug from the machine. he took natural fabric moistened cotton (cotton) with oil and impregnated the wood at low machine speeds. Why does the master do this on a machine? Because you need to rub the product with oil for a long time and painfully (by hand), but on a machine everything is done quickly)

I've been thinking about making some of the lovely hardwood floorboards left over from my uncle's house, it was a shame to see one go to waste. excellent material. After watching a lot of videos on the Internet about how to make a mug out of wood, I decided to make big mug, but improved the idea a little. I also had a piece of deer antler, and I decided what would come out of it good pen for a mug.

This mug is suitable for anything - you can cosplay as a Viking and have it hanging on your belt, you can use it for butterbeer in a Harry Potter role-playing game, or just to impress your friends.

Step 1: Tools and Materials

Tools:

  • Circular machine
  • Fraser
  • Grinding machine
  • Hammer

Materials:

  • Hardwood Flooring Board
  • Wood glue
  • Small nails without heads
  • Polyurethane
  • Lots of rubber bands

Step 2: Cutting the floorboard





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The floorboard is covered with grooves, so first you need to make a regular rectangular floorboard. The easiest way is to cut off the tenon and groove on a circular saw, and then sand it so that there are no burrs left.

After this you have to decide how many edges you want to make. Let's say there are eight edges, we calculate the angle at which we will cut the board.

If you also decide to make an octagonal wooden beer mug, skip this paragraph. If you want to make more or fewer edges, check out the calculation I made. Since there are eight sides, we need to divide 360° (the number of degrees in a circle) by 8, which gives us 45°, then subtract 45° from 180° (the total number of degrees of all angles of the triangle) and divide the difference by 2 and get 67.5 ° (or 22.5° - depending on which side of the board you measure from).

After this, we place the board on the circular table at an angle of 22.5° (because at an angle of 67.5° it will be very inconvenient to saw the board on a machine).

Now you need to decide how tall the cup will be. I think 19 cm - optimal height. We cut eight pieces of board at the desired angle.

Step 3: Making the Bottom







My mug has a recessed bottom, I really like how you can see this recess if you lift the mug. I raised the bottom 19mm from the base, you need to choose which height you like best. Then use a table saw to make a slot on each of the eight pieces that is the same width as the thickness of the bottom you will be making. The slot depth is 6.4 mm.

Put all eight pieces together front side up and glue two strips of tape and connect the sides into a ring, make sure that the sides fit tightly together. Place the ring on paper and trace the inside with a pencil. Then draw another octagon around the octagon so that there is a distance of 6.4 mm between the sides of the two figures (the depth of the slot in the walls). Trace the outer perimeter on a piece of wood and saw out the bottom of the mug. Make sure that the edges of the bottom fit snugly into the slots on the sides of the mug; the elastic bands will help you assemble all the parts of the mug together.

Step 4: Glue the mug together



You might get a little dirty at this stage. The best way To glue a wooden mug with your own hands is to lay the sides on tape, apply glue between them and on the edge of the bottom. Then slowly twist the sides into a ring, gently tapping the bottom with a hammer so that it fits into the slots. When all sides are closed in a ring, you need to wind the elastic bands on the outside, the more, the better. Carefully remove excess glue that has come out inside and outside with a clean rag.

Step 5: Making the Edge

After the glue has dried, use a grinding machine to lightly sand the edges, walls and bottom edge, at the same time we get rid of possible glue residues. After this, use a milling cone to make a bevel from the outer edge of the walls to the inner ones. Some part of the surface of the walls should remain flat so that the edge of the mug is not sharp. Sand the edges of the bevel so that the transition from the edges of the beer mug to the inside walls is smooth.

The photo shows the mug before sanding the bevel. Also sand outer edge mugs to make it convenient to drink from.

Step 6: Making a Handle



First, we cut off a piece of the deer antler of the required height for the handle of the mug, and level the cuts with a grinding machine. Choose a place where you will attach the handle. To mount the handle, use the remaining trapezoidal pieces of the board from which the mug's edges were sawn off.

Drill a hole on the underside of the trapezoidal blocks to screw the handle to them, countersink these holes. Screw the horn to the blocks, adding a little wood glue between them. Drill small nail holes on the beveled sides of the blocks to fit into the wood of the mug.

Glue the handle on the blocks to the mug and hammer nails into the holes. Using clamps, press the handle to the walls of the mug and wait until the glue dries.

Step 7: Finish Coat


To finish the mug, I suggest giving it a good coat of epoxy to seal the wood. I didn't have epoxy, so I used polyurethane. First I covered inner surface layer of polyurethane, then soaked a rag in it and applied an additional layer to each internal corner. The layer of polyurethane on the bottom is thicker than on the walls, so the bottom is better sealed.

Then I added a few more thin layers. I coated the outside of the mug with two layers of polyurethane. I hope you enjoyed the process as much as I did. If you have any questions, write in the comments or by email. Good night everybody.

PS. You can burn something on the sides or bottom, I'm waiting for your suggestions.

Project: August 2004

This is one of the very first attempts to openly show the manufacturing technology of one of their products online. This had never happened in practice before. Memories of the events of that time today bring a smile. Firstly, a carpenter with a camera - it’s hard to imagine then, but with a computer and Internet access - it’s completely nonsense. Secondly, not everyone is able to share their “secrets” and best practices, both then and today.

Since then I have purchased a lot of different things. modern equipment, has developed many new technologies. AND oak mug today it would look a little different, and the manufacturing technology would most likely change. But in memory of the product of that time, I decided to save this master class and transfer it to the pages of the new site virtually unchanged, although on the Internet parts of the original text are found in the descriptions of many sites...

Well, the story itself began with one order. The then still young company "Arena" for its Arena Beer House decided to order tasting trays, in which customers would be presented with four different varieties beer. The variety you liked should be served in wooden beer mug. That's when I developed the mug together with wooden tray. Wooden mugs were made in small quantities, and the tray remained in sketches (although the manufacturing technology was also worked out).

Below, as promised - original description from the old site:

“It all started with a conversation about wine oak barrels and so on. This gave me the idea to do oak beer mug. I had never encountered making mugs before, so I decided to make them using my own technology. After looking through a dozen websites about beer, I made a discovery for myself: for 50 ml of vodka, a glass with a capacity of 50 ml is enough, but beer still has its own foam. That's why beer mug should also be the case for foam. The beer fills about 3/4 of the mug. Accordingly, for 0.5 liters of beer, the mug should have a volume of about 0.8 liters.

So, let's get down to business!

I don’t know what Papa Carlo made his mug from, I decided to use a time-tested material - oak. For the manufacture of mugs it is necessary to prepare eight oak blanks measuring 150x60x15mm and one 135x70x25mm for the handle. It is necessary to end the bars at an angle of 6°, since the mug will have a cone shape. Yes, I almost forgot to keep the beer from spilling out, you need to bottom it. The mug also has a two-layer oak bottom. Two blanks 130x130x3mm. The direction of the first texture is located across the texture of the second workpiece. For the mug you will also need a copper strip approximately 900×13×0.7mm.

If you have prepared everything and still have the desire to make an oak mug, then go ahead!

The body blank must be shaped into a trapezoid with base dimensions of 59mm and top dimensions of 48mm. The ends are beveled inward at an angle of 22.5° degrees. A special feature is that the ends are processed for a tongue-and-groove connection! After processing, the workpiece will look like this.

Having previously cut the bottom to the shape of an octagon (the size depends on the depth of the groove), you can begin assembling the mug.Once assembled, give the top edge of the mug a thinner shape and round it off. It is also necessary to round the corners at the bottom end of the mug.

Now you need to make a handle for the mug. You can choose any form. For convenience, the edges of the handle should be rounded as much as possible. It is necessary to make holes at the ends of the handle for further attachment to the body of the mug.

The next stage of making the mug is attaching the handle to the body. Here we had to use unusual technology. We encircle the mug with copper strips with a printed pattern. We secure the ends of the strips to one of the planes of the mug using screws threaded through oak dowels. This fastening allows you to securely fasten the copper and dowels to the body of the mug. Next, press the handle onto the dowels. This method makes the connection of the handle to the body of the mug reliable and invisible.