Fumigator electrical circuit. Makeev Leonid Alexandrovich. Fumigator automobile (marching). Fumigator from the battery - connection diagram

Some time ago I went fishing in the peat lakes of the Sergiev Posad district of the Moscow region. The route was familiar, the plan too - arrival on Saturday evening, overnight in the car, and at three in the morning going out on the water by boat. However, that time the trip coincided with another wave of mosquitoes, the activity of which increased tenfold.

The ringing creatures filled the interior of the car instantly, and although the assault squad was quickly killed by a towel, they attacked again and again. Any opening of the door - to boil water for tea, wash your hands, and just breathe in the air, finally, infuriated.

But the most unpleasant thing began in the evening, because on a hot and humid July night it was impossible to sleep in a car without opening the windows, and even the tiniest and actually useless half-centimeter gap opened the way for mosquitoes. I met the morning bitten, sleepy, with a desire to burn everything around with napalm and dreams of a banal home plate fumigator - this penny device could make an overnight stay (and a "day" too) quite comfortable...

When I got home, I took on the issue of in-car mosquito control with a vengeance, both as a personal interest and as a columnist for the Gadgets section of Wheels.

And I was surprised to find that 12-volt car fumigators are a rarity on offline counters. They are few in number and expensive (!) even in Chinese online stores. Internet monitoring revealed several descriptions of home-made car fumigators, confirming the scarcity of factory devices, as well as numerous discussions on auto forums and blog sites where people share their own methods of fighting mosquitoes in a car with improvised means.

Actually, the first thing that comes to mind is a plate for a fumigator slightly heated on a lighter, a lit smoldering repellent coil or a candle. The methods are simple and effective - mosquitoes quickly leave the car. However, this is a temporary success: the battle has been won, not the war! It is still impossible to spend the night like this - through the windows ajar for ventilation, insects will quickly fly in again, attracted by the warmth of the breath, carbon dioxide and human scent.

A more technologically advanced and long-term option is to use an interior lighting lamp as a fumigator. If you remove the diffuser cover, then in ceiling lamp you can place a "fumitox" plate by bending it and stuffing it between the lamp and the body. The lamp power is most often 3-5 watts, and it heats the plate well, while being loyal to the battery, even if left overnight.

Such a life hack is very effective - we checked it - but obviously not for everyone. It will not help if you are afraid of breaking something by opening the lamp yourself, if the lamp is controlled by tricky electronics with a timer, and also if the lamp is LED, which does not provide the necessary heat.

as other alternatives the public in "Internet smoking rooms" voices either difficulties or nonsense. Like, for example, installing removable tinting nets on windows as mosquito nets or using a 220-volt home fumigator in conjunction with a 12/220 car inverter.

There are also pocket devices called ThermaCell, where a tiny flame of a gas flame burns inside and evaporates the repellent - but such gadgets are not cheap and require expensive original branded consumables - mini propane-butane cartridges (anti-mosquito plates fit standard ones).

Also available in pocket catalytic heaters, working on the principle of flameless combustion of gasoline, and some of them have the ability to install a standard "fumitox" plate. These devices are functional, but, we repeat, they are not cheap and require certain skills in handling them, since they are still designed for use on outdoors and not inside the car...

In the shops of spare parts and accessories for trucks, you can easily find specialized automobile fumigators, but, as a rule, they are all 24-volt, for a cargo onboard network. You can plug them into a 12-volt outlet, that's just for passenger car such devices are ineffective - the heater in them has a resistance of 120 ohms, which in a 12-volt network gives a power of a little more than 1 watt - this is not enough for the effective evaporation of the repellent from the plate.

But such a home-made fumigator was shown to us by one advanced car traveler - wires with a cigarette lighter plug are soldered to a 12-volt 5-watt light bulb; the lamp is used as a heater - a repellent plate is pressed against it with a rubber band, after which the structure is placed on a rubber mat on the floor of the car.

But the most efficient and easy to use, of course, is a factory-made 12-volt automobile fumigator. It is not easy to find it on sale due to the fact that not everyone needs such a gadget - why is it, say, a purely urban car owner? However, we, although not without difficulty, found the device, purchased and tested it.

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From a 12 volt battery, the fumigator consumes a current of 0.43 amperes, which results in 5 watts. Actually, this is four times less than the side light on, so such a current with a working battery, and even in summer (because in winter, as you know, the fumigator is not in demand) will not harm the battery, even if you turn on the device in the car all night.

Turning on the gadget so that it works all night will have to be different, depending on the make and model of the car. For example, on many quite modern Skodas, the cigarette lighter is constantly connected to the battery, like on the old classic Zhiguli - everything is simple and most convenient here, the fumigator is turned on in the cigarette lighter as it is, without any extra actions.

Fumigatorautomotive(marching)

Sometimes it's easier to make your own than to buy or get it somewhere.

Get rid of mosquitoes in the car, tent (with extension), etc. Convenient for fishing, camping, etc. It is very useful for long hauls, especially among the Siberian swamps: you go out somewhere on the highway as needed, and then you go with a full cabin of midges. Fireproof, economical. Supply voltage 12 / 24 volts Power consumption - 4.5 watts. Plugs into cigarette lighter. Two options are offered.

General toonstructsAndI.

In order to simplify the design, an ordinary cheap fumigator without bells and whistles for 220 V with a ceramic heating plate and a carbon heating resistor was taken as the basis. Instead of ceramic, a duralumin plate of the same dimensions with a thickness of 2.5-5 mm is cut. On back wall fumigator, you can put a silicone suction cup for attaching to windshield.

Option 1th.

The simplest low-voltage fumigator.

The heating element is an imported wire resistor SQP 5 W - 5 watts, 36 ohms, in a ceramic case. Tight, no gapsqueezing out excess glue, glue it to the dural plate on a heat-resistant (120 degrees) silicone sealant. And that's it - the fumigator is ready.

It is connected to the battery with a plug from the cigarette lighter through a 0.5 A fuse. The temperature of the duralumin plate is about 120 * C at ambient temperature. air + 25 * C To operate from a 24 volt battery, the resistance of the resistor must be 150 ohms.

Option 2th.

A hole with an M3 thread is drilled in the dural plate, and an IC is attached to it from the reverse side approximately in the center, preferably with heat-conducting paste KTP 8. The diagram in fig. 2.

IS - LM 317 BT, in the TO 220 package - a voltage regulator connected according to the current regulator circuit. Serves as a heating element. R is a current-setting resistor with a power of 0.5 watts. The voltage across resistor R will ALWAYS be 1.25V. With a resistance of 3.6 ohms, the current through the IC will be 0.35A, allocated thermal power at 13 volts the supply will be about 4.5 watts. The temperature of the dural plate will be about 120 * C (at an air temperature of + 25 * C). D - 1N 4007 or any diode for a current of at least 1 A. It is installed to protect the IC from reverse polarity when connected. ATTENTION! When the polarity is reversed without a protective diode D, the IC chip burns out instantly. The resistor and diode are soldered directly to the IC pins. Hinged installation, arbitrary, but durable, so that nothing falls apart from shaking. When powered by 24 volts, the resistance of the resistor R should be doubled (7.5 ohms). Thermal power will remain the same - 4.3 watts. Instead of LM 317 BT, you can put LM 337 BT, but be careful: it has a different pinout and polarity of the supply voltage. The polarity of the diode D must also be changed.

Rice. 3 IC pinout

Recommendation. Because the volume of the tent and the interior of the car is small, the plate can be inserted into the fumigator not completely, but only half. Even a mosquito bites blood. Take care of yourself! Yekaterinburg, September, 2015 P.S. Made a few pieces on a personal request. One fisherman asked very much, offered good money: well, a man loves fishing in the lower reaches of the Ob. That was a long time ago. From personal experience. In the 89th I made a dozen for sale, but I couldn’t attach it, some kind of certificate was required. I am returning from a bike ride through the forest, a couple of demonstration product samples were lying around in my backpack. Summer, heat. I look, in the bushes of a car, all the doors are wide open and swaying measuredly. You understand, if with such physical activity close the door, you can suffocate, but if you open it... He knocked politely and offered his goods. Judging by the face of the young woman, she, in gratitude for getting rid of the midges, was ready to give herself to me, but I preferred to take it with money. Everything worked out well: time, place, situation. Well boiled. There was no bargaining, but all three were satisfied.

Every year we go camping with my family.

Heard thatCanremakehomedeviceForscare awayinsectsSo,toHehave workedfromautomotivebattery.Tell,HowCanmodernizeordinaryfumigator.

I offer two options for finalizing the fumigator for 220 3 with a ceramic heating plate and a carbon heating resistor.

Option one

From the ceramic plate, originally installed in the device, I disconnected the heating element-wire resistor SQP 5 W - 5 W. resistance 36 Ohm.

I glued it with heat-resistant (120 degrees) silicone sealant to the duralumin plate (photo 1 2.5 mm thick (the same size as the ceramic one). I connected the wires (arbitrary length) coming from the car cigarette lighter plug to the resistor contacts (see Fig. 1 on page 11)

On a note
To run on battery power; 24 V resistor should be 150 ohms.

Option two

I drilled a hole with an MZ thread in the center of the duralumin plate and fixed the LM 317 VT microcircuit (IC heating element) in it with a heat-conducting compound (Fig. 2). A current-setting resistor (R) with a power of 0.5 W was connected to the latter. The voltage on it will always be 1.25 V. With a resistance of 3.60 m, the current through the IC will be 0.35 A, the thermal power released when powered by 13 V is 4.5 W, and the temperature of the duralumin plate is about 120 degrees. In order to protect the IP in case of incorrect polarity, after connecting, I installed a diode-D-1N 4007 (you can use any other for a current of at least 1 A).

Since the volume of the tent and the interior of the car is small; tablets can be inserted into the fumigator not completely, but only half.

A silicone suction cup can be glued to the back wall of the fumigator for attachment to the windshield.

Fumigator from the battery - connection diagram

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Diagram of my electric fumigator. So, in fact, this is an ordinary electric heater, only a low-power one. The measurements of the purchased sample show that the temperature of the metal plate is on average100 degrees Celsius(95-105 scatter on the surface). Given that the power is indicated on the case 3 Tue The device is the simplest, but I don’t remember exactly (I once took it apart). In a plastic box with a fused mains plug, a heater is placed (close to the plate) - a resistor, in size - half a watt, or a little more, but it seems to be imported, striped, from a number of special ones - in this case, a refractory type. There is also an indicator - LED (normal, red, AL307), I don’t remember how it is turned on, but this isIt doesn't matter... Since the dimensions of the rezyuka-heater are relatively small (for the output power), it heats up very strongly, which gives such high temperature with such a modest heater. And this is exactly what is needed to activate the plate with chamomile extract (of course, I don’t know what is actually there). When I decided to assemble my own, I decided to do it on simple summaries, with the same full power. But since the total power of the cuts, with a margin, is greater than the allocated power, and their total size is much larger than the imported cut, then general temperature heating will be lower. To raise it, it is necessary to isolate the heater from the external environment, except for the side on which the metal plate will be (on which the plate with the extract is placed). Then the temperature will rise (up to the established balance), because heat will only escape through the plate - and this is what is needed. Of course, in this case, the temperature will be higher than the permissible operating temperature for MLT resistors, and they will probably turn black over time, but this does not concern us, as well as a slight drop in resistance. The heater should work normally, because the heating current will be less than permissible, and the heating process will not take on an avalanche-like character (which can burn the rezyuk), the current itself will decrease slightly during heating, and the overheating will not be strong, although significant. I decided to put the indicator, and the simplest - 2 LEDs connected back-to-back, which provides, with minimal simplicity (two parts), also electrically ecological cleanliness circuits (symmetrical load in the AC network, in any direction). Among other things, this also ensures the safety of turning on the LEDs - they will not break through. I decided to turn on the indication at the middle point of the heater - the safest option, no matter where the phase is. I decided to wrap the heating resistors with a metal plate (on which the plate with the extract will lie). Of course, the cuts will need to be covered with some kind of heat-resistant insulation, because their coating will crumble over time from heating and this can cause a short circuit, but, in any case, I decided to play it safe and added two (fundamentally symmetrical) fuse. Of course, as low-precision as it should, I did not find it, but I used small carbon rezyuki (I turned out to be full of them - the old model, with ribbon leads, green ones ...). Of course, you can use any 0.125 Tue But if I had no doubts about the operation of the circuit, then there were doubts about the operation of the device as a whole. How successful will the heater itself turn out, will the temperature be enough ...Assembly. I found a suitable piece of one-sided textolite, contacts from a plug, picked up several resistors (according to power distribution, for a total resistance of the order16 kOhm), took the LEDs and checked all these components. I found metal (a battery wrapper"AA" ), crimped it several times, tk. it was deformed, but in the end it remained uneven... I chose a few pieces of asbestos. I designed and cut out the printed circuit board, turned the plug contacts (so that they fit securely on the board and soldered well to it), tinned the board, soldered the plug contacts (aligned them according to the sample), soldered the LEDs (it took a long time to choose the angle of inclination, for symmetry, as a result, one came off the legs, and I soldered it as best I could - but very successfully), soldered the resistors-heaters, and at the end - the resistors - fuses. For electrical insulation, I decided to use old pieces of adhesive tape (not important ...), suffered, placing the insulation between the leads, then wrapped it in one layer on top (of course, this somewhat worsened the thermal conductivity). I took the metal, made cuts for the leads, put a piece of insulation on the middle cut (so as not to short it to the leads of the LEDs), passed it under the heater (it worked out fine several times), bent the petals of the metal and the metal itself (neatly and symmetrically , because the heater is composite and is held only by soldering, and hangs on 4 conclusions, so as not to break the contacts ...), went around the heater from above and slightly compressed the metal so that it would move less away from the heater. The ends of the lower side of the metal were bent to the board, and therefore the heater not only hung over the board (on the leads), but also relied on it from one side. As a result, the heater was almost completely covered with metal (there were slots on the sides and on the side of the plug, and insulation was visible), but the metal did not fit tightly on top. I irradiated its petals (from the bottom) and the edge of the top , after which I soldered two leads that pulled both edges of the metal together (although not ideal). Filled the bottom (between the board and the metal plate of the heater) with asbestos for thermal insulation, and at the same time it isolated the metal plate from the board, and the heater itself no longer hung, but rather lay very hard on the asbestos. I irradiated the edges of the metal plate and soldered two horizontal whiskers (long leads), which should press the carrier with the extract, bent them to the size of the carrier. I checked the circuit with a tester and finished the assembly. It turned out not the most beautiful and reliable thing. Asbestos was not fastened by anything, the heater was held only by 4th conclusions - soldering, and when inserting the carrier, it was necessary to hold it so that it did not move again (did not loosen). The surface of the metal on which the carrier plate lay was uneven, although the whiskers were pressed very well, but they also had to be pressed sometimes ... The plug (due to the board) was not included in the recessed sockets. Although, in general, turning the device on and off was simple and safe. When tested, the device scored only 70degrees Celsius (but 100 ). Although mosquitoes died, but the effect was noticeably weaker. The asbestos was not ideal in this case, and the board from below got very hot - just these losses were not enough to reach the desired temperature. Since the board was just warm at the point where the hand touched, it could be said that excess heat was escaping through the bottom. To improve efficiency, I'm going to try some kind of insulating material (when I get my hands on it) instead of asbestos. Suitable material there are definitely some types of ceramics, and some types of glass, possibly also wood, as well as special and composite materials, in general, I don’t know exactly what, but you can find it. The problem is that you need layer - a few mm, and therefore the properties of body insulation should be the best. Of course, it will also be necessary to adjust the shape and size, process, grind, but this is already after ... In the meantime, I will leave this direction, summer has passed, mosquitoes from - flew (or will soon fly off) ... To improve the effect (as well as when using half-fried plates), you can drop a few drops of water on the plates, but after installation in the device, otherwise they will swell and you will not insert them normally. In this case (theoretically), the remains of substances, dissolving, are distributed over the entire plate and are more efficiently "radiated" when heated. In practice, if you put a few drops of water on a hot, old plate, then its aroma increases (or maybe it seems to me?). In short, I do not know exactly, but I assume a positive effect from the addition of water. In general, as I understand it, the assembly of such devices is more of a sporting interest than a necessity (although in the summer, when mosquitoes get ... you already think differently!), And it's easier to buy than to do it yourself. True, I don’t know how much it costs, and there’s no extra money either, but it’s like someone. I think it's easier to fix (and modify) bought, but burned, than to assemble a new one. So the choice is yours: there is money - it is better to buy and not suffer; there is a desire and interest - try to collect, I think these files will help you a little ...Mystery. I had an interesting case with my device. I included it in the adapter for the "euro", but it does not hold well there and almost does not contact. I carefully "fixed" it several times, and as a result, the contact appeared - the LEDs are on. Sometimes I see - it went out, I'll fix it ... And once I look - only one LED is on. If you look at my diagram, you will understand that this is impossible, because. if one is lit, then there is a contact, and the other half-cycle - for another LED - must also pass. Of course, I assumed that the other one was broken (although why would that be?) or simply faulty - a marriage. After all, the voltage of one half-cycle cannot drop dozens of times before the other ... - rekhodnik away), and both caught fire! And the brightness of each was like more than one - then. I examined the device - everything is holding up perfectly, i.e. the contact between the plug and the adapter was to blame. Apparently, I have witnessed the rare case when the oxides on the surface of the metal gave the effect of a semiconductor and rectify the mains voltage (this is real, because the load is low-power, and the current is relatively small). But once upon a time, such cases were used as the basis for various discoveries. Well, in your opinion, how else can you explain this?...Last revision 6.9.2004 by KSA-7G.

The main toxic substances used in fumigators:

pyrethrins- natural natural chemicals found in plants. They don't provide negative impact per person, and are not harmful even to children.
pyrethroids- a group of synthetic substances artificially created in industry in laboratories.

Most fumigators use the pyrethroid group of insecticides, as they are more effective and are designed specifically to kill flies and mosquitoes. Manufacturers reduce the percentage of content harmful substances, and achieve a balance of safety and effectiveness in insect control, but synthetic chemicals still have a harmful effect on human health.

Types and device

Mosquito fumigators have a simple working principle, and can protect people from mosquitoes and flies, both in a city apartment and in natural environment. The principle of operation of fumigators is to heat a chemical that is harmful to flying insects and evaporate it in the space of a room or in nature. In this case, a certain region is formed in which there are no blood-sucking insects. This is the most effective method struggle. Mosquitoes prefer to come together in a group, and prevent bites with topical repellant repellents.

Electric fumigators from mosquitoes

This is a device that consists of a plastic housing that contains a heating element used to heat a toxic chemical. The heating element is powered by a household electrical network.

Forms of insecticidal chemicals used in fumigators:

Liquid.
Lamellar.

The device itself depends on their shape.

Plate fumigators

They are equipped with a heating plate, on which a plate impregnated with an insecticidal solution is placed, which evaporates when heated. One plate is enough for 10 hours, so they need to be changed every night.

By appearance plates can determine its suitability for use. If it has lost color and become faded, this means that the poisonous chemical has completely evaporated.

Liquid fumigators from mosquitoes

They work with the use of liquid poisonous solutions, which also evaporate due to their heating. small capacity With liquid substance inserted into plastic case fumigator. A small porous wick protrudes from the container, which absorbs a liquid poisonous substance. The container is screwed from below into the body of the fumigator, which, when inserted into the socket, heats up, as a result of which the toxic substance evaporates and spreads throughout the room.

Liquid fumigators can free about 30 m 2 of an area from mosquitoes. One bottle of insecticidal liquid is designed for 30-40 days of work. heating plate usually made of ceramic or metal. More expensive fumigators use a ceramic heater to ensure that the plastic body does not melt when heated.

Liquid and plate mosquito fumigators are more safe devices, compared with pyrotechnic types, since they heat up less and have a lower concentration of a poisonous substance. If there are plates for the fumigator, but the device itself is not, or it is faulty, then you can set them on fire and use them by analogy with spiral fumigators. They will also smoke and repel mosquitoes.

Stationary devices operating from the socket are produced in different versions and color solutions, equipped LED indicators, swivel forks and other features.

Mobile mosquito repellents are new development for personal protection. You can carry them with you and turn them on when needed. They work from or gas cylinders. Such devices are equipped with convenient carabiners for fixing on a belt, backpack or clothes. Their principle of operation is similar to stationary fumigators, they also clean the air space from mosquitoes, form a special protective cloud that protects the person himself and the people around him.

Mosquito fumigators will help you sit quietly on the street in the evening, if not strong wind. Some models are equipped with miniature coolers to help quickly disperse toxic chemicals. The smells spreading from the fumigator have little effect on the person, and are practically not felt.

Pyrotechnic fumigators

Such models of mosquito exterminators are made in the form of a spiral of smoldering material impregnated with an insecticidal solution. When smoldering, the spiral forms smoke. Spiral devices should be used for pest control air environment on open space, Outdoors.

Using pyrotechnic fumigators is simple. It is necessary to install the spiral on a fireproof surface, set fire to it at one end. When burning begins, the flame must be blown out and the spiral will begin to smolder and smoke, forming an insecticidal cloud that has bad smell. Inhalation of poisonous smoke is not recommended, and the elderly and children are prohibited.

The released chemical substance is capable of destroying mosquitoes in an area of 20 m 2. If applied in indoors, then it protects people up to 8 hours from various flying insects. If in nature, it forms a protective cloud in which flies and mosquitoes quickly die. The use of the spiral external environment occurs with sufficient efficiency only in calm weather.

When using this tool, you must comply fire safety keeping away from combustible materials and liquids.

Advantages

Collective defense . Fumigators eliminate the need to use aerosols and ointments that require contact with the human body. Ointments are absorbed into the skin and enter the body, causing irritation and other negative health effects. Even portable fumigators powered by batteries protect people nearby.
Efficiency . Evaporation poisonous substance is the most optimal method of killing mosquitoes and flies. Vapors or smoke can reach any point where these flying pests live, before the bite of a person.
low cost . Such devices are budget option for many people. Liquids and plates for them also have a low price.
No discomfort . Chemical substances, evaporating into the air, do not interfere with rest and are not felt by a person, especially since flavorings may be included in their composition. The only exceptions are pyrotechnic spirals, since the smoke generated during smoldering has a pungent pungent odor.

Flaws

Short service life . Many Chinese fumigators are of poor quality. The plastic case during the operation of the device is very hot, and sometimes it can melt. Standalone devices, attached to the belt, are also heated and create discomfort. Therefore, it is recommended to purchase such devices only from reliable trusted manufacturers.
Periodic ventilation . Every two hours it is necessary to ventilate the room in which the fumigator works, since prolonged exposure to toxic substances on a person can cause health problems, and the detrimental effect on flies and mosquitoes is also reduced.
Application restrictions . It is forbidden to use fumigators near nursing or pregnant women, children. It is not recommended that they stay in a pickled room for a long time.
Time limit . It is forbidden to operate the fumigator for a long time at a high concentration of insecticide in the air, in order to avoid various allergic reactions, expressed in cough, migraine or fever. Sometimes even the help of a medical professional is required.

Visually check the housing for the quality of the joints. Get advice from the seller on quality heating element and plastic.
Check the quality certificate.
Familiarize yourself with the composition of the liquid. The concentration of the poisonous substance should not exceed 15%.
For forgetful people, it is recommended to purchase a fumigator with a timer.
If you plan to use both liquids and plates, then it is better to purchase devices that allow you to use these tools at the same time.
There are both complex toxic agents and individual ones, designed specifically for a particular type of insect.

Terms of use

Before connecting to the network, read the instructions.
Check the functionality of the socket.
It is forbidden to use the fumigator indoors. At night it is better to open the window.
Do not touch the body of the device with wet hands while it is in operation.
It is advisable to apply fumigators from mosquitoes a few hours before bedtime.
It is not recommended to turn on the device closer than 1.5 meters from the bed.
IN big room it is better to connect several devices, placing them evenly over the area.
Outdoors, pyrotechnic fumigators can be used in multiple locations for greater effectiveness.
If a person has an allergy, it is necessary to turn off the device, provide access fresh air and drinking water.
Keep liquid and plates away from children and food.