Thuja danica disease treatment. How to care for thuja in the garden so that it is lush and green? For protection and treatment it is necessary

Thuja aphid

These are grey-brown small insects that live in colonies and look like silvery or white waxy dust. If such pests have reached your thuja, then its needles will begin to turn yellow and fall off.

Fighting methods

The same insecticidal agents as for false scale insects will help protect thuja and stop aphids. In addition, you can wash the affected areas with a soap solution, covering the ground so that the soap does not reach the roots of the thuja. Such procedures should be done regularly every 7-10 days.

These two diseases are somewhat similar, so the treatment is the same. So, against thuja aphids and thuja false scale insects, you can spray trees with the Fufanon insecticide. The dosage of the drug is 10 ml/10 l of water, the consumption of the working solution is up to 1.5 l/10 m². Spraying with Fufanon is carried out from May to June, re-treating in the summer in case of extensive pest infestation.

Aphids appear where there are ants. Check if there is an anthill on the site and if you have noticed a large concentration of ants somewhere? The fact is that there is a feeding connection between aphids and ants. Ants feed on the secretions of aphids and protect them from predatory insects, as well as unfavorable weather conditions (aphids move to anthills for the winter). If you destroy the ants, the aphids will also disappear. For these purposes, you can use the drug Anteater. The application rate is 1 ml/10 l of liquid, the consumption of the working solution is 10 l/5 m². The solution is applied to the soil in places where ants accumulate during the growing season.

Spider mite

This pest is especially dangerous for trees that grow in dry soil. By the end of summer, the amount of damage increases, since the tick can produce about six generations during this period.

You can recognize it by the fact that the thuja needles are entangled in cobwebs and covered with yellow spots, as a result, it crumbles.

How to fight?

At the first appearance of spider mites on your thuja, spray it with infusions of dandelion, garlic or colloidal sulfur. In case of large damage, acaricides will help. To prevent disease, you can spray the tree cold water. This will increase humidity and repel ticks.

moth

Small larvae (4 millimeters in size) of this moth gnaw tree branches. As a result, they turn brown and the shoots die.

Treatment

If you see traces of such larvae on your tree, you can prevent their further destructive effect by simply pruning. Treating thuja at the end of June with products (twice with an interval of eight days) that contain pyrethroids will also help stop moths. For example, Fumitox Anti-mite, Tornado Anti-mite, Moskitol Anti-mite.

Gray larch leaf roller

These dark caterpillars wrap thuja needles in a web, making cocoons. Pests are located in the middle of the cocoons. Thuja loses hers from this decorative look and may die over time.

Remedies for leaf roller

To prevent the appearance of the caterpillar, you need to spray with one of these drugs: Fufanon, Decis Profi, Actellik. The rate of the latter drug is 15-20 ml/10 l of liquid. The consumption of the working solution is 1 l/10 m². Spraying with Actellik is carried out in May - early June, repeated spraying - in the summer when the pest population is large.

Click beetles

These root pests look like thirteen millimeter black or brown beetles. At first they feed on thin roots and humus. When the larvae grow up, they begin to feed on thick roots. As a result, the tree weakens, its development stops, the needles dry out and fall off. This pest is especially common in low areas where there is moisture.

Removing the beetle

Drainage, soil deoxidation, and digging up the soil in the fall help prevent the spread of click beetles. You can also add diazonin preparations to the soil. For example, “Trap”, “Bazudin”, “Zemlin”.

Bark beetle

These small bugs gnaw holes in the tree bark and lay eggs. The hatched larvae make their way in the same way. The tree usually dies within a month.

Fighting the bark beetle

Unfortunately, we have not yet come up with a universal means of combating this pest. And since every summer outbreaks of new lesions of bark beetles are recorded, it is necessary preventive treatments Clipper.

Weakened thujas also need to be fed and treated with a growth regulator, the best of which for conifers is Zircon. It will help the trees endure stress and recover faster. Spraying of all trees with Zircon is carried out once in the middle of the growing season (June-July): 0.3 ml/3 l of water. Accordingly, the working fluid will need 3 l/100 m². You also need to use complex fertilizers marked “for conifers”. For example, Reasil (Reasil), Bona Forte.

Bottom line

Please note that timely detection of tree infestation will help you cure it faster and prevent pests from infecting other thujas. You should carefully and regularly examine them so as not to cause the disease. Having correctly identified the pest, you should immediately begin removing it using the methods described above.

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Thuja is a beautiful ornamental plant. It gained popularity due to the fact that it can be trimmed to create beautiful shapes from foliage. However, any disease of the thuja can instantly destroy everything that the gardener has made of it. Although this tree small size quite unpretentious to the owner's care, as well as to planting, there are many pests that are always in a hurry to feast on beautiful plant. The most popular thuja diseases, as well as methods of combating them and prevention will be discussed here.

So, the most common disease not only in the tree in question, but also in many others, is brown shoots. In early spring, when the young shoots of the tree are just beginning to appear, they acquire a brownish tint. This means that your thuja has earned itself. Such shoots should be removed immediately so that the disease does not spread. For prevention, ordinary limestone is used; it is dug into the root system. In addition, the drug "Fundazol", diluted in a concentration of 0.2 percent, helps a lot. They should spray the tree every two weeks until October. However, if you managed to remove the shoots and get rid of the disease, then this operation is not at all necessary.

The next common disease of thuja is called false scale. It consists in the fact that small yellow ulcers form on the trunk of the plant, which will grow if certain treatment is not started. Karbofos, Actellik or Rogor help here. It should be noted that these same drugs are used when aphids attack your thuja. These are small insects of gray or Brown. As their colony grows, they become covered in a silvery, wax-like dust. As a result of an aphid attack, the foliage of the plant turns yellow and subsequently falls off.

Another thuja disease manifests itself in the fact that the top of the tree begins to turn yellow, the foliage begins to fall off, and the plant gradually dies. At the same time, you do not observe any ulcers on the trunk or blanching of the shoots. In addition, the aphids did not attack your thuja. Sometimes this happens and this is the result poor care. The fact is that it performs several functions. One of them is to deliver a variety of nutrients from underground into the trunk and crown of the plant. If the thuja dies - this function broken. This can happen for two reasons. In the first case, the thuja disease manifests itself due to the fact that its root system has begun to rot. This happens when they rise high and supply a certain amount of moisture. The owner, naturally, does not even suspect this and additionally waters the plant. The root system rots due to excess moisture. In the second case, the disease occurs due to fungal disease, which was described at the beginning of the article. And the methods of dealing with it are appropriate.

Thuja danica is more often exposed various diseases, since it is the one that is most popular among other species of this plant. Despite the fact that it is a hardy tree, fungi and pests can lead to its death. Therefore, you should not delay treatment if the disease has already overtaken you. And ideally, it is better to carry out prevention.

If in the fall you notice that the color of the needles of your favorite thuja has changed, becoming paler, yellowish, gray or even brown, then you need to understand the reasons that caused these changes. After all, if the cause is a disease, then in the spring the thuja can radically change its appearance not in better side or even die. Severe winters and winters with constant temperature changes, frequent thaws and little rainfall can be disastrous for weakened plants, especially if they are weakened due to some kind of disease.

When yellowing is normal

If the needles dry out “inside” the thuja, then most likely this is a seasonal phenomenon, which is a variant of the norm. Coniferous trees and shrubs, just like deciduous ones, change their needles over time. Old needles die, opening access to the crown of light and air. Old branches are most often located inside the crown, on branches extending from the trunk and on the trunk itself. Dried branches are not touched in the fall, but in the spring they carefully clean the thuja using canvas gloves by hand or even using a Karcher. We still recommend cleaning thujas manually, since any active mechanical impact on the crown of a coniferous plant can lead to microtraumas, and these, in turn, can become an open gate for all kinds of infections.

Some types of thuja, for example the western thuja and the folded thuja, change the overall color of the crown closer to winter from bright green to yellow-green or even brownish-green. There are varieties of thuja that do not change their color or change it barely noticeably. This is Thuja Smaragd, Brabant (a type of Western Thuja). Emeralds, as a rule, do not change their color at all, remaining bright green throughout the winter.

In the spring, with the beginning of the growing season, when the soil thaws and the first juices begin to flow, the needles acquire their previous color and become bright green again. In winter, many conifers change their color, for example, almost all types of pines. By spring they become pale and yellowish. With the start of sap flow, they “come to life” and turn green. This is a protective reaction of conifers to possible damage from the active spring sun. Sunburn is sometimes also detrimental to coniferous plants, as well as harsh snowless winters. Therefore, for newly planted conifers, we recommend arranging shelters for the winter to avoid sunburn in the spring.

Severe frosts can also cause the thuja to turn yellow. In thirty-degree frosts and winters with little snow, frost cracks can form on the stems; the needles on the side of these branches turn yellow and die. Unfortunately, not a single plant is immune from frost damage (unless, of course, you arrange shelter every winter, and not just the year immediately after planting).

Perhaps this exhausts the list of harmless reasons that cause a change in the color of thuja needles. Other reasons are not so harmless and require careful analysis, correct diagnosis and timely treatment. Let's try to describe them in more detail.

Improper planting of thuja

Often it is mistakes when planting plants that cause their weakening and subsequent death. If the needles begin to turn yellow, then it is necessary to exclude the most common reason- incorrect landing. Planting in poor sandy soil without installing automatic watering systems leads to the fact that moisture is not retained in the root layers of the soil, the thuja does not receive enough water and gradually dries out.

On the contrary, planting plants in clayey, highly moist soils often leads to the fact that the root collars of thujas are in water, the root systems do not receive enough oxygen, the roots do not develop, and even begin to rot.

The best conditions for planting thuja, as well as many ornamental plants- these are well-drained and fertile soils.
A common mistake when planting is deepening the root collars of plants. At the same time, the thuja does not die immediately, it for a long time resists disease, but eventually begins to turn yellow and dry out. As a rule, drying out begins three to four years after planting. A seemingly healthy tree or shrub gradually begins to change its color, individual branches dry out, and then the entire plant.

Planting too often also has an adverse effect on plant health. In pursuit of quick results, many plant thujas too close to each other, thereby depriving the crowns of normal air access. The crowns are not ventilated, and stagnation occurs.

Conifers do not like sudden changes in growing conditions and react to sudden insolation with a sudden yellowing of the needles. This often happens when plants are transplanted from shaded places to sunny ones or when plants around them are cut down, suddenly exposing the crown of the conifer to the sun. In spruce, for example, this not only changes the color to yellow and gray-green, but also often causes sunburn on the trunks. Thuja often reacts with a sharp change in color to straw-yellow, and they burn sharply.

Improper care

Care errors also often lead to tragic consequences. If you do not water the plants during dry periods, this threatens their death. If excess moisture is not removed during periods of prolonged rain or spring floods, the result may be the same.

Pine needle burns

Reagents used against ice and snow are very dangerous for conifers, including thujas. The burn appears at the ends of the shoots. The tips of the branches change color to brown. These are chemical burns that are difficult to treat. Adding excess quantity nitrogen fertilizers causes the same damage.

Thujas react poorly to the urine of dogs and cats. If dogs periodically “mark” plants, the needles in the lower part of the crown begin to turn black and dry out.

Micronutrient deficiency
A change in crown color due to a lack of microelements is called chlorosis. Chlorosis can occur due to a lack of iron, potassium, phosphorus, and nitrogen.

Diseases

A common cause of yellowing and drying out is brown and common schutte - a fungal disease that manifests itself in a large number of dead needles. The disease manifests itself in full force in the spring, immediately after the snow melts. Shoots die, entire branches may die. The affected needles adhere firmly to the plant and do not fall off for a long time, thereby greatly spoiling the appearance of the plant.

Thuja reacts negatively to insect damage. The roots are often damaged by wireworms, the needles are damaged by false scale insects, scale insects and leaf miners, the stems are damaged by bark beetles and weevils.

Thuja treatment

Therefore, the importance of timely diagnosis and TIMELY treatment cannot be overestimated.

If you notice a change in the color of the needles of plants, there is no need to wait for spring; contact a specialist immediately. Remember that under unfavorable circumstances (light winters, frequent thaws in winter, frequent transitions “through zero”) can lead to irreversible consequences for the plant if it already shows mild signs of the disease in the fall. Many fungal diseases develop when low temperatures in winter and in early spring, during frequent thaws. Call and we will help you!

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Fungicides against diseases Treatment of trees and shrubs against diseases may be required for both prevention and treatment purposes. If there is a nearby

Thuja is a wonderful plant that many gardeners strive to plant. It not only significantly decorates landscape plot, but also takes advantage of its easy care. But all thujas are subject to terrible attacks from diseases and pests, which can lead to the death of the plant. The topic of this article is Thuja diseases and their treatment. Photos will help you visualize the first signs of the disease and take decisive action in time.

Thuja diseases - how to protect it?

In order for the thuja to delight with its beauty and grandeur, it is necessary to protect it from various diseases. Today there are many known various diseases, most of which are transferred through other plants planted nearby. Let's look at which infections you should be most wary of.

The most common diseases are:

The most dangerous disease. Damages the root and then moves on upper layer plants. As a result, the thuja begins to wither, changes color to a gray tint, and the trunk below becomes soft. Plaque appears on the trunk, the roots begin to rot and become brittle.

Most often this disease is caused wet soil. To prevent its occurrence, the tree must be treated with fungicides. If, nevertheless, the disease has reached the thuja, then you need to get rid of it and change the soil. Because the disease can live in the ground for a long time.

2. Brown shoots. Appear in early spring. Characterized by yellowing of scales. As a result of the defeat, the shoot turns brown and then dies. For prevention, infected shoots must be removed. Afterwards the tree needs to be constantly fed. It is recommended to spray with foundationazole.

This disease can occur due to fusarium. In such a situation, you need to add a foundation solution to the root. You can also treat the plant with zircon. Wet roots can also cause disease. This phenomenon is most often observed due to standing groundwater.

The plant's needles fall off and darken. More often the disease attacks in the spring, but it can also all year round. Young thujas are most susceptible to the disease. For preventive purposes, bad branches should be removed. Affected trees should be treated with a copper-containing fungicide. Processing is carried out in May and throughout the summer.

If medications do not help cope with the disease, you can use foundationazole. They do not need to spray thuja; it is used to fight infection in the soil. Plants infected with Schutte must be treated with Topsin-M. Trees need to be sprayed in the spring, after the cessation of night frosts.

4. Thuja false scale. The main signs of the disease are yellow ulcers on the bark. Treatment must begin immediately. Otherwise, the disease can cover the entire trunk with spots and the tree will die.

To treat false scale insects, you need to use the following drugs: Rogor, Karbofos, Actellik, Antio. It is possible to carry out treatment traditional methods. For preventive purposes against disease, the trunk is wrapped in straw. The branches are treated with a soap solution.

Of course, all these diseases negatively affect the condition of the plant. To prevent infection, it is recommended to carefully monitor the quantity and quality of watering, fertilize the soil and avoid dangerous proximity. As for nutrition, it should be as appropriate as possible for thuja. You can add organic and mineral fertilizers, the only condition– do not use fresh manure and chicken droppings. These substances contain a large number of pests that negatively affect root system tree. Thuja can be attacked by insects, so specialists advise using special preparations.

Now you know everything about thuja diseases and their treatment. Photo on our website will help you have an idea of ​​the signs of the disease and detect it on your plant in time. We hope that our advice will help you protect thuja from death.

Tui - beautiful ornamental trees, which became so popular thanks to simple care and beautiful appearance. Beautifully trimmed can decorate any garden. But any disease can destroy the entire result obtained by the gardener as a result of his labors. The most dangerous diseases Western thuja (Smaragd) and their treatment:

Pests of coniferous trees: what you need to know?

Pests of conifers are no less dangerous enemies for thujas, since they can also quickly lead to the death of plants. The most famous pests today include:

• Arborvitae moth. The butterflies of this pest reach a size of only 5 mm and fly out in early May. It is easy to notice the pest: the leaves of the plant begin to turn brown, and the tops of the tree die off. To prevent the appearance and spread of butterflies on the site, it is necessary to treat the trees with preparations that contain pyrethroids (for example, Cypermethrin).
• Thuja aphid, which causes enormous damage to tree needles, which eventually disappears, reducing the decorativeness of plantings. The pest is dark brown in color and lives on the lower part of the shoots. The main control measures include spraying the plant with Karbofos. To be on the safe side, read all instructions on the medication package.

Do not forget that with any drugs you need to work only with gloves and, if necessary, a respirator. This will protect your health when using toxic products.

Proper care of thuja is the key to tree health

To minimize the risks of pests and diseases in your garden, you need to take proper care of your thujas. So, water the plant from once a week to once a month - it all depends on the weather and soil conditions, while young trees should be watered more often.

The basic rule is that the roots should not dry out, but there is no need to over-moisten the soil.

In the hot season, the ground under the tree is covered with peat, which will avoid moisture loss, but in the first few winters the soil is sprinkled with sawdust.

Don't forget to cover and protect the tree from sunburn, which can also lead to rot. For this, it is best to use kraft paper to wrap the barrel. From time to time, water the thuja from above, which will stimulate the growth of young shoots. In the spring, thuja needs to be fed, for which it is best to use.

Experts also advise using mineral and organic fertilizers(compost and ash) and vermicompost. In the first year after planting, it is better to dilute the fertilizer by half, which will minimize the risk of burns. IN spring time Every year it is necessary to carry out work such as pruning trees and removing diseased shoots. To stimulate the growth of branches and add splendor to the shoots, we shorten the shoots by 30% twice a year. With this care, a healthy thuja will grow on your site, and diseases and pests will avoid the garden.