Bouquet of candy lilies of the valley. MK. How to care for aspidistra, watering, propagation and treatment of the “iron lady Sail from aspidistra”

I present to you a very simple way to make a stylized lily of the valley branch. I am fond of sweet design, and I needed such branches to decorate bouquets and baskets of candy flowers. I don’t claim the proud name of LILY OF THE LILY, just a similar appearance. It's easy to do and looks wonderful!

To work with materials you will need:

• -artificial aspidistra (the one in a reel. Sold in floral accessories or packaging stores)
• -artificial bergrass (green plastic grass in the form of a bunch. I bought it at a flower shop in the artificial flower section)
• -toothpicks
• -beads of different diameters of the same color (from a sewing store)
• -Double-sided tape(I buy at a hardware store)
• -green tape (sold in stores with floral accessories)

The only tools that will be useful are scissors.

Let's get to work and cut off one blade of grass from a bunch of bergrass. You should pay attention to the fact that the blade of grass is bent along its length and has an angle. It is important. Then I’ll show you and tell you why.

Beads are snow-white (No. 0106) and have a diameter of 10, 6, 5, 4 mm. The size in mm is not important, the main thing is that the beads go in descending order. I advise you not to take more than 10 mm, since most likely such large beads will not be fixed on the blade of grass. Instead of 10 mm, 8 mm will do.

For one branch I take:

1 bead 10mm
2 beads 6mm
2 beads 5mm
3 beads 4mm

For convenience, pour beads of all sizes into a plate and then take them with your hands.

Here is an example of preparing a workplace.

We string the largest bead through the narrow edge of the blade of grass to the place where it will sit firmly and not move. There is a problem with this bead, because it itself has a large hole inside, and sometimes the bead does not want to stop in any place. In this case, you should flatten the blade of grass with your fingers in the place where the bead should stop, that is, smooth out the existing corner on the blade of grass. More often than not, there are no problems; I play it safe.

Further - easier. Smaller diameter beads have small holes inside, and they stop on the blade of grass where you point them. They stay spread-eagled and do not fall, but can be moved with your fingers. Here are 2 more beads strung...

Then 2 more, smaller in diameter..

And now EVERYONE is sitting on a branch! Make the distance between the beads at your own discretion, depending on who you like. I did more and less, it’s still beautiful!

Now we cut off the extra tail of the blade of grass with scissors, leaving a 2-3 cm margin. Set aside the cut end of the blade of grass and do not throw it away.

We cut this stock along the corner of the blade of grass to a bead.

And with the blade of the scissors we first twist one tendril, then the other, ALWAYS from the side of the convex corner of the blade of grass. It has been experimentally proven that from the side of the concave corner the antennae do not curl, but immediately come off!

It may be written in a complicated manner, but in reality everything is easy and you can see what’s what. It turns out to be a branch like this.

Let's start with the leaf. Lily of the valley has a wide and large leaf. But we don’t need it, because we are making a SIMILAR look, so we cut out from an artificial aspidistra a narrow leaf, pointed on both sides, the size of our twig from a large bead to a tail.

And glue it to a piece of double-sided tape measuring approximately 1cm in height and 2cm in length.

We also attach a twig, trying on where to cut off the excess.

Cutting off the unnecessary one with scissors bottom edge blades of grass, apply a toothpick to the edge of the tape and begin to twist all the parts together inside.

Again, it was experimentally established that the leaf at the bottom when cutting out the workpiece should be very narrowed, and be slightly wider than a blade of grass.

Then, after twisting the tape, it will be able to bend back, which is much more beautiful than a leaf stuck to a branch and standing upright (this happens when the leaf is too wide at the base).

In this photo, the perfect leaf is perfectly wrapped with tape. Next, we hide the white tape with a small piece of green tape, taping around the toothpick.

This is the final branch of a lily-of-the-valley-like flower.

It looks like a fairy tale!

Remember, we set aside the cut thin tails of the grass blades? We collect them in a bunch of 6-8 pieces, insert them into a large bead and, using hot glue, fix them inside the bead with a toothpick. We twist the ends and get sultan fountains for decoration! They will fit perfectly into the bouquet.

Flowers can be made not only white. On the right are champagne colored beads.

And instead of aspidistra, plastic blades of unknown grass were used for the leaf artificial flower. And the largest bead here is only 8 mm! Looks good too.

They are so different, but all very beautiful! You can make a few things and put them in a vase, but I use these branches in bouquets.

Champagne-colored lilies of the valley are used in this competition entry...

And on the handle of this basket there are white ones.

And just like that inside the basket, in the bouquet itself.

I will be glad if my knowledge and experience is useful to someone! Thank you for your visit!

Tropical lands are considered the homeland of aspidistra East Asia. There, in the shade of cool forests, you can find large, wide leaves of the plant. They begin to sway if a snake crawls between them. Therefore, in its homeland the plant began to be called the “snake indicator”. IN indoor floriculture Aspidistra is considered the most unassuming flower that easily takes root in any room. But some rules for caring for the plant must be followed.

Description of the plant

Large leaves of aspidistra, from a botanical point of view, are not leaves of the plant. These are shoots. But the real leaves of aspidistra are very small, do not have a leaf blade or petiole and resemble scales. Their main task is to ensure shoot germination through the ground. Aspidistra flowers, as reviews indicate, appear at home very rarely. They are extremely unusual and do not correspond to ideas about colors. Inflorescences form on the roots, above the ground. Small flowers unattractive and even ugly.

Florists often use aspidistra for decoration. flower arrangements. To make a wide, smooth leaf look especially impressive, experts give it a variety of shapes. The easiest way to twist an aspidistra is to fold the leaf over, forming a large loop. The ends are fastened with a stapler.

Basic “indoor” types

The culture belongs to the large asparagus family. IN wild conditions there are about a hundred various types aspidistra. But in indoor floriculture, only a few varieties have become widespread, which are described in the table.

Table - Main “indoor” types of aspidistra and their characteristics

Aspidistra: what care is needed

Even a novice gardener can easily figure out how to care for aspidistra. The plant is completely unpretentious and is considered one of the easiest indoor flowers to care for. Aspidistra is able to grow even in conditions in which no flower can survive.

Aspidistra location and lighting

The plant prefers shade. Direct rays of the sun can destroy the iron lady. Therefore, it is recommended to place the flower away from windows. It can develop normally in the corridor, in large office hallways. Flower growers are advised to adhere to these recommendations for lighting and location.

• In the room. The flower will readily develop on northwestern or northeastern windows. Moreover, you don’t even have to place it on the windows, but place it in the back of the room.
• On the balcony. In summer, the plant can be moved to the balcony or taken out to the terrace. The flower quickly acclimatizes. But you need to choose a place for a green pet only in the shade.

If there are light spots on the leaves of the aspidistra, then such a plant needs sunlight. And the more such inclusions, the more light the flower requires.

Temperature

Special requirements for temperature conditions The Iron Lady does not present. It can even withstand temperatures down to +5°C. Experts advise adhering to the following rules:

• in winter - the suitable temperature for aspidistra is + 16°C;
• in summer - the flower does not like heat at all, so the most optimal conditions consider +20°С-+22°С.

Watering and moistening

Aspidistra does not need excessive moisture. Excessive humidity can destroy the flower. In the case of apidistra, it is better to underwater than to overwater. To ensure that growing aspidistra at home brings only joy, provide the plant with the following care.

• Watering frequency. In summer, the soil is moistened immediately after it dries, approximately once every four to five days. In winter, during cool periods, water the aspidistra two to three days after the soil has dried. On average this happens once a week.
• Spraying. Air humidity is completely unimportant. However, regular spraying will have a beneficial effect on the appearance of the flower. One spray per week is enough. But if the room is hot, you can increase the amount of humidification.
• Hygiene. Dust often accumulates on the leaves of the plant. This harms him and spoils his appearance. Therefore, it is recommended to wipe the sheet plates with a cotton pad soaked in plain water when they become dirty.

Top dressing

It is necessary to pamper the aspidistra from time to time useful substances. This will have a beneficial effect on the foliage, add richness to the color and enhance the natural shine. However, overfertilization is very dangerous for the plant. Flower growers recommend feeding your green pet according to the following three rules.

1. Feeding frequency. Fertilize the plant during intensive growth. Crops with dark green shoots need feeding every two to three weeks. Aspidistras with variegated leaves are fertilized once every 30-45 days, otherwise they will lose their unique “coloring”.
2. Choice of fertilizers. Suitable for the iron lady mineral fertilizers, which are intended for decorative foliage flowers. Aspidistra will respond favorably to “Activin”, “Master-agro”, “Uniflor”.
3. Winter period. With the onset of hibernation, the plant stops feeding. It does not need fertilizer until the next growing season.

Transfer

Wondering how to care for aspidistra after purchase, many decide to start with a transplant. This is not entirely correct. The plant does not like such an event. Therefore, it is necessary to replant it only if the pot has become really small for the iron lady, and the roots have begun to grow through the drainage. To properly transplant aspidistra, follow these five guidelines.

1. Time. It is best to replant the plant in mid-spring. This time coincides with the beginning of the growing season, thanks to which the aspidistra will normally withstand the “moving”.
2. Age. Only young plants are replanted. Large aspidistras growing in large tubs are not recommended to be touched. They just remove the top layer of soil and add new soil.
3. Pot. For aspidistra, select a large and deep flowerpot. It is advisable that new pot was 4-5 cm larger in diameter than the old one. Such a flowerpot will allow the root system to develop normally and prevent frequent transplants.
4. Priming. Aspidistra is unpretentious to soil. A universal primer will suit her. She loves palm soil. And if you wish, you can prepare the earth mixture yourself by combining equal proportions turf soil, peat, humus and sand.
5. Drainage. Small bricks, pebbles or clay shards must be poured onto the bottom of the pot. Such a drainage system will allow the remaining water to be removed in a timely manner.

Aspidistra has delicate roots. That is why it is not recommended to replant it often. Flower growers advise carefully transferring the plant into a new pot without clearing the roots of the old soil. This will preserve the fragile root system as much as possible.

Aspidistra grows extremely slowly. Therefore, it should not be replanted every year. Typically, gardeners recommend transferring the plant to a new, larger pot every two to three years.

Aspidistra propagation methods

Flower growers prefer to propagate the plant during transplantation. This allows you to protect the crop from additional injuries. Aspidistra can be propagated by three methods. But most often they resort to only one thing - dividing the rhizome. And the rarest method of propagation is planting seeds. This is a long and complex method that is used only by experienced flower growers in an effort to obtain new varieties.

Rhizome

The simplest method. It is only permissible for a mature plant that is already five years old. The huge disadvantage of this method is hidden in the need to injure the roots of the aspidistra. But the plant does not tolerate this procedure quite well.
Reproduction of aspidistra by dividing the bush is carried out in four stages.

1. During transplantation, the rhizome is carefully shaken off the soil.
2. Using a sharp knife, cut the root in the selected place so that the new plant has at least five leaves.
3. The “wounds” are immediately covered wood ash to protect the root from rotting.
4. All formed plants are planted in separate pots and the soil is moistened.

A bush on which fewer than eight leaves have formed is strictly prohibited from dividing.

Leaf

Another simple method Aspidistra reproduction. With this method root system does not get injured, which is preferable for the iron lady. The leaf rooting process consists of the following five steps.

1. A strong, healthy leaf is carefully separated from the plant without affecting the petiole.
2. The leaf is dipped into a container of water. The jar is tightly closed.
3. The formed greenhouse is placed in a warm and bright place.
4. As soon as the first roots appear on the leaf, it can be planted in the ground.
5. The young plant is covered with a cap and waiting for another leaf to appear, indicating complete rooting of the aspidistra.

Diseases and main pests

The plant gets sick extremely rarely and is very rarely attacked by pests. Although serious errors in care can easily lead not only to deterioration appearance, but also to the death of the iron lady. Therefore, having noticed the first unpleasant symptoms, it is necessary to carefully review the care of the crop and immediately begin treatment. The methods are described in the table.

Table - How to deal with diseases and main pests of aspidistra

If, following all the features of caring for an aspidistra in a pot, you notice a rapid yellowing of the leaves, and an equally rapid change in the shade of the flowers (if any), then most likely your pet has been struck by infectious chlorosis. Methods to combat this dangerous disease does not exist. In this case, it is necessary to destroy the plant before it infects other inhabitants of the indoor flower collection.

Reviews: “The one that shows the snakes”

And I broke off part of the rhizome with a leaf from a huge bush that grows in a tub in the workshop of the chemical plant where I work. So the aspidistra bloomed there! These types of balls, like seed pods, lie directly on the ground, small size and open up. They look like the seed pods of a thuja.
Well, I cut off three of these leaves with rhizomes. First I put it in water. They stood safely. But no growth of those small thick roots that were there was observed. Then she planted it in the ground. And it was last year, it seems at the end of summer! So until now these leaves have stood like preserved ones. They don’t die, but they don’t grow and there are no new leaves to be seen.

Xavier, https://iplants.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=5392

My aspidistra has been wintering outside in the ground, under covered material, for three years now.
Grows well, especially after division (four healthy plants.), but doesn’t bloom, although I didn’t look closely. A very hardy plant. I even feel sorry for leaving it in the yard, that’s how he wants to live!

@nn@, https://iplants.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=5392

Aspidistra has been living with us for about 60 years, the oldest indoor plant, in any case, in the photo from 50-52 it is there. I love her for her unpretentiousness and ability to grow in the darkest places of the apartment (currently on bookcase in the corner of the room farthest from the window, near the ceiling). And it gives some old-fashioned comfort.

Friday, http://www.sadiba.com.ua/forum/showthread.php?t=8718

I love this plant, I was looking for it for a long time, but it is now completely undeservedly forgotten. It's rare that a store even knows this name. Of course, I found it, purchased it, and proudly displayed it on the windowsill. When neighbors from the street came to the window to monitor my new clothes (I have the first floor), I explained this, they say, the one that shows snakes. The neighbors were offended and took it personally. And the granny from whom I bought aspidistra said that an infusion of the leaves helps with joint pain. Haven't checked yet. She also said that it can be planted in a flowerbed for the summer. I'll try this year.

Anfisa, http://www.sadiba.com.ua/forum/showthread.php?t=8718

The main feature of the proposed bouquet is the use of notebook sheets and ballpoint pens. This move helps to play up the everyday school life of both the student and the teacher.

If you decide to opt for hydrangea, then you should take into account that this plant quickly loses its appearance in the absence of water. Therefore, to preserve the freshness of the flower, you need to put test tubes with water on the stems. Such test tubes are easy to find in one of the florist stores.

1 Let's start preparing the necessary accessories for the bouquet. We take notebook sheets and twist them into little pieces. Then we screw them to the wire using tape. We do the same manipulations with ballpoint pens.

2 Aspidistra leaves curl as shown in the figure. To do this, you need to carefully dig a hole along main vein in the middle of the sheet. The length of the hole is 5-7 cm. The sheet is turned inside out and the curl is fastened with a stapler. You can also tear the sheet from its middle part to the end, and wrap each half separately.

If there is no natural aspidistra. instead, you can use aspidistr tape (it is an imitation natural leaf aspidistra).

3 Now let's start assembling the bouquet. We supplement the hydrangea branch with two or three salau branches.

4 We take one or two branches of alstroemiria and apply it in a spiral.

5 We do the same with scymia and with wrapped aspidistra leaves.

6 Now you need to add gerberas. In order for their stems to remain intact, they must be united with gerbera wire or anchor tape. Gerbera is located in the bouquet, located at the vertices of a regular triangle. In this case, two flowers are located next to each other, on the same straight line, and the third flower is located opposite them, at the apex of the triangle.

7 Now add the remaining leaves and flowers in the desired order.

8 We attach accessories, they can be distributed throughout the bouquet at your discretion. The wires on which ballpoint pens are wound can be inserted at any time, even after the bouquet is packed. After all, then it will be even clearer where the wires should be inserted in order for the ballpoint pens to have the most impressive look.

9 The bouquet must be fastened using technical cord or twine. The knot is tightened quite tightly, so the bouquet will hold well and will not fall apart.

10 The ends of the stems are trimmed with pruning shears; the stems should account for about 1/3 of the entire length of the bouquet.

11 Now let's do the packaging. Open the middle of the notebook and take two spreads. We glue them together so that the width of the gluing part does not exceed one and a half centimeters. In total, you will need to prepare two or three of these double sheets. The number of sheets depends on the size of the bouquet we receive.

We treat the leaves with leaf gloss.

12 Each sheet must be folded diagonally. All corners should be at the same distance. We make a cut in the middle of the complex sheets, so the packaging will better fit our bouquet. The incision should be about 5 cm long.

13 The sheets need to be attached to the bouquet, with their corners aligned with each other. We fasten the sheets with a stapler, so they will not diverge.

14 The resulting package must be tied technical tape, twine or tape. The ribbon should hold the packaging well on the bouquet.

15 If you have the desire, you can use separate sheet spreads to assemble a kind of skirt for your bouquet, which will hide the lower parts of the stems. But you can also leave them open, then the stems can stand steadily in a vase filled with water. One way or another, the packaging in which they wrap bottom part bouquet, you will need to remove it, because the paper should not get wet in water.

16 The resulting bouquet should be tied with a beautiful ribbon.

From Osinka

So:
1. Required: “chocolate-covered nut” candies, white corrugation, wire (mine is 1mm in diameter), wire cutters, tape, double-sided tape, “aspidistra leaf” tape, hot glue gun.
2. I glue the tail of the candy on one side to the body of the candy with hot glue. We leave two wires long (40 cm) and cut one into three parts. I make a loop at the ends of the wire. I wrap the candy onto the wire with double-sided tape (you can use plain tape or glue it with glue, but the corrugation then sticks to the double-sided tape and does not come off while you attach it). So I make five candies (two for long wires and three for short ones)

3. I cut the corrugation into one and a half divisions (extruded strips) 6 cm wide. I bend the strip inwards - the fold line will be the edge of the lily of the valley petals. I roll it into a tube and tuck the edge between the fold. The diameter of the tube should be less than that of a candy - so that the edge of the bud is narrowed . I glue the outside with hot glue (thin and neat, otherwise it’s bad to bend the corners later)

4. I insert the index fingers of both hands (on both sides) into the workpiece and, holding it from the outside with my thumbs, grab and stretch the middle to make the bud convex. Not too much, otherwise the candy will dangle inside. Insert the candy and form a bud. I secure it with double sided tape.

5. I wrap the leg with tape - approximately 5 cm, making sure that the free edge of the tape remains another 5 cm. We form the edge of the bud: we pinch the edge with two fingers and bend it outward. I try to stretch out the small folds on the fold of the corrugation - with my nails I straighten the tip of the tuck outwards, and the inner edges towards the center of the bud, pressing it against the candy - the corrugation stretches and no longer shrinks back and the shape of a petal remains. I make five petals.

6. Assemble the twig: bend the buds the way they hang in nature. We attach a bud on a short wire to the first long wire with the tail of the tape we left. And then we attach two more on a short wire. The last flower goes on a long wire. I do this so that the branch is not thick (if everything is done on a long wire), but I bend two long ones upward with pliers, cut them off if necessary, and I get a stable leg. I wrap it with tape. I forgot to take a photo of this moment, but I think it’s clear on the finished lily of the valley, it’s just that a leaf has been added there.

7. How to make the leaf - I cut two 30 cm pieces from the “aspidistra leaf” tape. I pasted double-sided tape onto one, laid a wire (so that the leaf held the desired shape) and glued the second piece on top. I cut it into the shape of a leaf.

8. For the bouquet, I collected 3 twigs, a leaf, and wrapped the stem with tape, and on top with a thin aspidistra ribbon. I tied a bow and glued on beads. Ready.