What to feed the tomatoes with, the fruits were poured. Why tomatoes don’t turn red in the greenhouse: what to do to make them ripen faster, what to do if the tomatoes don’t pour well. Severe lack of moisture in the soil

The fruiting time is August.

But we have to be in time. Lower air temperatures, diseases, pests and we may be left without a harvest.

And you can’t live without tomatoes; in one glass of tomato juice – half daily norm vitamin C and provitamin A, which actively support the immune system.

A LITTLE INTERESTING!

It turns out that the tomato for a long time was considered poisonous. American colonists believed this until 1820. And Colonel Robert Gibbon Johnson dispelled these misconceptions. He publicly ate a bucket of tomatoes on the steps of the courthouse in Salem, New Jersey. The crowd of two thousand who had gathered for the performance was amazed to discover that the retired military man was not at all going to die in terrible agony - and the tomato began to rapidly gain popularity.

And the tomato is naked, but well-fed. We pinch off the growing tip, leaving 2-3 leaves following the last cluster with ovaries. They serve to fill the lower brush. We also cut off all flower clusters above 5 and 6, since only August remains for fruiting. Now that almost all the leaves have been torn off, the tomato looks almost naked.

To speed up the filling and maturation of existing brushes, we must carry out two feedings during August with an interval of 2 weeks.

The first fertilizing is carried out with Gumi-Omi Tomato fertilizer (70 g per 10 liters of water, left until dissolved, about a day) and watered at the root, with this volume of solution covering 1 sq.m. planting tomatoes. The roots are well saturated with phosphorus, potassium, and microelements.

We carry out the second feeding two weeks later on the leaves, i.e. We spray with Bogaty - this is a complex feeding, rich in macro- and microelements. All substances that help fruits ripen faster will be available and easily digestible.

We collect brown and green fruits, which we put for ripening, and the remaining bunches of tomatoes will ripen faster in the absence of unnecessary competitors.

Myth or reality. Sometimes you look on the Internet, and there are so many ways they offer to speed up the filling and fruiting of tomatoes, you begin to doubt. And we decided to consult our professionals to see if this is really the case... Let's describe a couple of ways.

Method 1: Quick pour - pull the stem tight at the base(3-4 cm from the ground) with several turns of thin copper wire.

This method has one advantage - everything nutrients They enter the fruits faster, and due to photosynthesis, sugars, proteins, and fats are already formed there. The roots, in turn, do not feel well, they receive very little nutrition, because of this they do not grow and do not allow the plant itself to grow. (See the picture "Quick filling method")

Conclusion. This labor-intensive method will speed up the filling a little, but the plant will no longer grow. Not a particularly effective way.

It’s best to grab the stem at the bottom near the ground and pull it up (be careful not to pull it out!), as if tearing the roots, and you’ll get the same effect as described above.

Method 2. Accelerated maturation.

Let's figure out what maturation is. Each plant strives to leave behind offspring in the form of seeds. The plant is in a calm state, it has enough of everything, sits calmly in its place, and the fruits are slowly ripening. Try stressing a plant and see how quickly the situation changes. Stress should only be done after full formation fruits when continued plant growth is not required.

1. Spray the leaves with a solution of fertilizer Rich Vegetables, Berries, Greens. The leaves are saturated with moisture and nutrients.

2. We create stress for the plant. To do this, in the stem at a height of 10-12 cm from the soil, we make a 5-6 cm long incision, where we place a small stick or sliver, pushing the walls of the stem apart by 1-2 cm. The plant is a living organism, in a panic it begins to bear fruit faster, and the harvest is faster matures. But there is a big disadvantage - through the incision (slit) you can get an infection. Harmful bacteria enter the tomato conducting system. The conducting system is the vessels through which liquid with nutrients dissolved in it moves. Bacteria feed on carbohydrates, proteins, fats, and the plant begins to get sick. As soon as the incision is made, spray the wound with Fitosporin-M ReanimatoR or Fitosporin-M Golden autumn. It is advisable at this time to spray with natural phytobacteria without adding Gumi, since tomatoes should be aimed at ripening, and not at the growth and development of the plant.

A proven method of protecting against late blight and accelerating ripening.

In August, to avoid late blight and allow other fruits to grow, I pick tomatoes at milky ripeness. This is my term, and it means that the green tomatoes have become light, even, one might say, whitish. To prevent the tomatoes from rotting and ripen faster, I give them a hot bath. I immerse it in hot water at a temperature of 60 degrees for 2 minutes. If such tomatoes are placed on the windowsill next to untreated ones, then those washed in hot water will ripen a week earlier, and there will be no rot or late blight.

Attention! We have harvested the tomatoes and before putting them in for ripening, we spray them with Anti-Rot. Spray 1 kg of tomatoes with one click on the sprayer, turn it over and spray it with one click. Then we dry it slightly and calmly put it in the place of ripening. It has been proven that such an event allows you to preserve tomatoes for a week longer than those not treated with Anti-Rot.

Hello, dear garden lovers.

My readers often ask me questions about growing tomatoes in the comments. They are worried about such things as: “leaves curl,” “flowers fall,” etc., which further affects the formation of plants, inflorescences, the number of fruits set, and therefore the quality and quantity of the harvest.

In this article I will answer the most FAQ readers and will give you practical advice for growing tomatoes on site or in a greenhouse.

Question 1: The upper leaves of tomatoes constantly curl, but the plant itself is powerful, has thick stems, juicy, large green leaves.

Answer: In this case experienced gardeners They say this: “The plant fattens” - that means everything goes into greenery - vegetative mass. Such tomatoes will not produce a harvest. As a rule, they form a weak flower raceme, and the number of flowers on it is small. The cause of this problem is usually excessive watering and too large doses of nitrogen and organic fertilizers. A similar phenomenon can also be caused by a lack of light for plants. Most often, all these moments are present together.

What to do?

First of all, you need to stop watering these plants for 8 to 10 days.
If your tomatoes are grown in a greenhouse, then during the day the temperature should be increased to 25 - 26 degrees, and at night the temperature should be brought closer to 22 - 24 degrees.
It is necessary to properly pollinate tomato flowers by manually shaking the flower brushes from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m., in warm weather.
Apply root feeding to delay growth: you need to take 3 tablespoons of superphosphate per 10 liters of water. The consumption of this fertilizer is 1 liter for each bush.

Question 2: My tomatoes in the greenhouse have leaves pointing up under acute angle. They do not curl during the day or at night, and small fruits and flowers often fall off.

Answer: Here the reason most likely lies in dry soil, high temperature in the greenhouse, low light and poor ventilation. "The plants are suffocating."

What to do?

Water the plants urgently!
Organize regular ventilation in the greenhouse and reduce its temperature. Under normal conditions it is normal developing plants upper leaves in daytime should curl slightly and straighten at night. There should be a lot of flowers in the flower brush, the flowers should not fall off, they should be large, their color should be bright yellow. These signs indicate that the plant has everything it needs for normal growth: nutrition, light, etc. The harvest from such bushes will be wonderful.

Question 3: I grow tomatoes and can’t understand why the first cluster of my tomatoes produces excellent large fruits, but the second and third clusters grow very slowly?

Answer:

In this case, you need to remove the fruits from the first cluster as early as possible, while still brown, without waiting for redness. These fruits will ripen quickly on a windowsill illuminated by the sun.
Immediately after removing the fruit from the first cluster, you need to thoroughly water the soil.
There is no need to trim leaves and shoots, and the temperature in the greenhouse should be reduced to 16 - 17 degrees by opening windows and doors, especially at night. In such conditions, the crop quickly forms on subsequent clusters and ripens at an earlier date.

Always remember that tomatoes are the most light-loving crop. Therefore the main advice on growing tomatoes: “Provide adequate lighting for your green pets!” and they will thank you with juicy and sweet fruits.

Summer weather is not always pleasing to gardeners; summer is often too short for tomatoes to ripen. In order to enjoy the tomato harvest as soon as possible and have time to collect them before the onset of cold nights that inhibit growth, you should know the best way to water the tomatoes so that they plump up.

Methods to help tomatoes ripen faster.

There is no miracle recipe that can make fruits turn red in an instant. A set of measures will be required that short time will help in this matter:

cutting off excess tops below the level of unripe fruits;
stopping all kinds of fertilizing;
A film cover should be placed at night to avoid dew getting on the fruit, which leads to.

Is it possible to water tomatoes when they turn red?

If you do not water vegetables and fruits, then it will be very difficult for the plant to obtain moisture from the soil, which means that the fruits will not fill well. This rule does not apply to tomatoes, because they need liquid until the green tomatoes are poured. Until this time, fluid intake should be plentiful, but rare - about once a week.

Once green tomatoes are ready to start turning red, watering should be stopped, since excess moisture delays ripening and can lead to rotting of the bushes.

How to water tomatoes to ripen?

If you don’t know what to do and what to water the tomatoes with so that they turn red faster, then the old proven method will come to the rescue. Only watering in this case will be only on the fruits and green mass, and not at the roots as we are used to.

This is very simple to do - 40 drops of iodine are poured and dissolved into 10 liters of water, which are designed to spray one and a half linear meters of plantings. Treatment is carried out with this solution using a spray bottle.

In addition, if cold weather is already setting in, green and brown fruits are picked and stacked in two rows mixed with ripe ones. Red tomatoes emit ethanol, which contributes to the “aging”, that is, redness, of nearby fruits.

The goal of every gardener is a rich harvest, but sometimes you have to deal with various problems, for example, flowers do not appear on cucumbers, zucchini does not sprout, or tomatoes do not turn red at all. Why do such problems arise and how to overcome them?

Ideally, tomatoes, after the ovary is formed, grow for about three weeks. At proper cultivation the fruits will ripen, gradually changing color from green to red. Naturally, in order for a vegetable to be saturated with all the necessary components and become as it should be, the gardener will need patience and, most importantly, care.

Tomatoes turn red poorly in a greenhouse: possible reasons

If fruits do not ripen in a greenhouse for a long time, this is a so-called pathology, which is not so easy to cope with.

There are a number of reasons that can contribute to slower growth and maturation:

The very first and most important fact is considered low temperature air. If the temperature is below 15 degrees or above 35, then the synthesis process is disrupted. The consequence is a lack of maturation and acquisition orange color. In this case, a yellowish rim appears on the stalks.
If tomatoes are exposed to ultraviolet rays, the tomatoes simply burn. Just such a problem can be detected by the presence yellow color stalks May have an effect on maturation harmful effects abrupt change temperature regime, insufficient or excessive illumination, as well as unstable humidity.
The natural coloring of tomatoes may be disrupted due to uneven distribution bushes. In other words, when seating is too close. Ideally, there should be at least 30 cm between tomato bushes, otherwise there may be no tomato at all, or they will be small in size and without color.
Even if small tomatoes do not grow, the problem may be with an excess of nitrogen fertilizer and a lack of potassium. Distinctive feature is the curved shape of the fruit, as well as the presence of a bronze tint on the foliage. With severe starvation of useful components, the foliage will begin to curl into tubes and turn brown.

Another option for a tomato not turning red is the variety, as some are not designed to ripen. To be more precise, on such bushes the stalk is initially yellow, and regardless of the time the tomato stays on the bush it will remain green, as a last resort, may turn yellow. Basically, exclusively hybrid varieties are uniformly colored.

Why are tomatoes not filling in the greenhouse?

If tomatoes do not ripen well in a greenhouse, provided that the above factors are not detected, then you should pay attention to the variety.

To get a rich harvest in greenhouse or greenhouse conditions you need to choose:

"Gilgal";
"Rose";
"Evpator";
"Orange".

What to do if tomatoes do not ripen in the greenhouse

The worst thing for any plant is the lack normal conditions so-called "residence". Even for small tomatoes to turn red, it will take a lot of effort to create the ideal atmosphere.

For optimal fruit growth, you should pay attention to:

Temperature level;
Humidity level;
Lighting;
Timely feeding;
Timely removal of sheets or pinching;
Presence of insects and their elimination.

Tomatoes in the greenhouse do not turn red - what to do in this case

If you find the reason why tomatoes do not ripen, you can try to eliminate them to achieve a positive effect.

To do this, you will need to do a number of actions that will lead to your goal:

To provide tomatoes large quantity In autumn, unnecessary leaves should be removed and the branches exposed to ultraviolet rays. If the stem is already tied, then simply move the garter, turning it in the desired direction.
Feeding fruits with iodine is considered a good option. It is because of the absence of this component that fruits are inhibited in development and ripening. Irrigation from iodine must be done correctly and for this purpose dilute 35 drops in 10 liters of water, after which it is carried out foliar feeding foliage.
To achieve a large and ripe harvest, remove the lower foliage down to the tassels.
Some gardeners increase the rate of fruit ripening by limiting the amount of nutrition entering the plant. In other words, having set aside a mark of 10 cm from the ground on the stem, you need to make a cut through it. A plate should be inserted there, through which the uniform and constant removal of beneficial components from the plant will be stopped. So the bush doesn't give away nutritional elements and will supply them with fruit.
Sometimes removing the lower tassels with already ripe fruits can give positive result for those located above.
In autumn it is worth spraying to prevent infections. To do this, you will need a garlic-based composition. The formation of dew is extremely dangerous for tomatoes, as it cools them and thereby slows down their growth and ripening.
There is an opinion that if you shock a plant, it will begin to ripen as quickly as possible. This is exactly what can be done if you feed the bush with alcohol. 0.5 ml of diluted alcohol is injected into the ovary of green tomatoes and within two weeks the fruit will be ready for consumption.
In the event of destruction of the greenhouse or the formation of openings in it through which cold enters, it is permissible to replant the plant, which will not affect the ripening process.

By the time autumn arrives, flower stalks may appear on tomato bushes, but during this period they are no longer required, and therefore it is worth removing them using pruning shears or pinching. This way, all the strength and nutritional components will remain in the stem and will be distributed to the ripening fruit.

Why tomatoes in a greenhouse don’t turn red (video)

If the tomatoes have stopped ripening, there is no need to panic, you just need to figure out the reason. There are varieties of tomatoes that simply need the help of a gardener in ripening. There are a lot of methods and each of them can help bring tomato fruits to perfect condition. It’s worth putting in the effort and patience and the greenhouse will be covered with a huge amount of red tomatoes. All of the listed methods of dealing with slow ripening, although strange, are useful, and therefore you should not neglect the advice that gardeners have been passing on to each other for years.

We'll talk about 8 simple ways speed up the reddening of tomatoes, available to absolutely everyone. The first 4 methods are mandatory, the rest are optional.

How to speed up the ripening of tomatoes

No. 1. Pick the first reddened fruit. After this, everyone else suddenly starts to turn red!

No. 2. Trim leaves to the first brush. On tomatoes, be sure to expose the stem to the first fruits so that the bush is well ventilated. It will be enough to leave a couple of leaves on top.

This is also the easiest way to protect tomatoes from late blight. It is from the lower leaves that touch the ground that this disease most often begins.

No. 3. Pin the crown after tying the tassels with fruits. This is done to ensure that all the nutrients go only to filling and ripening the tomatoes.

#4: Minimize watering a month before harvest. And if the climate allows, then stop watering altogether. With minimal watering, the fruits grow tasty and sugary, the sourness and wateriness completely disappear.

Important: on deep soils groundwater and in the hot, dry summer you can’t do without watering.

Also significantly improves the taste of tomatoes by spraying with soda: 1 teaspoon of baking soda per 1 liter of warm water. Spray once a week. Previously we wrote about.

№ 5 . Spray with iodine. After this simple procedure, the tomatoes turn red faster, receive additional nutrition and protection from late blight.

Tomatoes crack due to sudden changes in soil moisture

№6 . Spray with ash. To make tomatoes sweeter and ripen faster, they are fed with an ash solution: 1 cup of ash + 10 liters of water. There is no need to insist. Pour the ash into a bucket of water, stir well, and immediately pour it under the root. One plant will require approximately a liter of solution.

Important: you can feed tomatoes with ash only after preliminary watering. Otherwise, the roots will get burned, especially if the plants have not been watered for a long time.

If you practice complete failure from watering during the ripening of tomatoes, then you can sprinkle with ash leaves and fruits.

In this case, the dosage is reduced by 2 times ( half a glass of water per 10 liters of water). Mix thoroughly, strain and spray the tomatoes in the evening or on a cloudy day. This is also protection from viral diseases and late blight.

№7 . Pour potassium humate. Potassium humate is used for additional nutrition and to help tomatoes ripen faster.

Standard dosage: 10 grams of potassium humate per 200 liters of water. First, dilute the powder in 2 liters hot water, stir very well and leave for a couple of hours.

Then pour this working solution into a barrel and pour strictly under the root. Make sure that moisture does not get on the leaves, so as not to provoke the appearance of late blight.

You can water tomatoes with humate every 10 days.. This fertilizer will speed up the ripening of tomatoes, the fruits will significantly increase in size, and their taste will improve.

Potassium humate is a cheap and completely natural preparation. It contains a lot of potassium and a whole list of microelements that tomatoes need during the ripening period.

№8 . Add apples or bananas under a bush or in a box with picked green tomatoes. These fruits secrete special substances that promote rapid ripening of tomatoes. By the way, .

Another option is to put green tomatoes in a box mixed with leaves walnut . Walnut leaves They secrete special substances, thanks to which tomatoes in the apartment ripen quickly.

Water generously. Tomatoes do not like sudden changes in humidity. Do not let the soil dry out and then water it generously. This causes the fruit to crack. It is better to mulch the soil under the tomatoes with hay. Under mulch, moisture is retained much longer, the earth does not crack from the heat and does not become crusty.

There's also some in the hay special bacteria, which . During fruiting, it is better not to water tomatoes.

Feed with nitrogen. From the second half of summer, tomatoes cannot be fertilized with nitrogen in any form. Mullein, chicken droppings, green mass infusion, minerals nitrogen fertilizers do not apply.

Tomatoes will intensively grow green mass, not fruits. And such fertilizing also worsens the taste of the fruit. Even if your climate allows you to grow tomatoes until late autumn, still apply only potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

Previously we wrote that