Basement siding under stone installation instructions. Instructions for installing façade panels (basement siding). Installation of Wandstein facade panels

Without decorative finishing facade, the house will not look complete. The easiest way to give even an old building a neat look is to cover it with vinyl panels. As for finishing the base, installation basement siding Doing it yourself will not be a problem even for an inexperienced builder.

Siding installation stages

Without a starting strip, the siding will “walk” in windy weather, and the cut edges of the panels without a J-profile will look very sloppy. It is quite possible to do without an internal corner by using one or two J-profiles.

You can also make the cast yourself from a strip of painted steel. But it’s better not to give up on external corners - by choosing contrasting elements, you can achieve a very original effect.

For ease of working with panels, it is better to prepare the tools in advance:

• self-tapping screws and nails with a wide head - for fixing siding and sheathing;
• hammer, screwdriver, screwdriver and hammer drill (if you need to work with a concrete foundation);
• metal scissors and cutter knife;
• circular saw or hacksaw with fine teeth;
• folding ruler, tape measure and square;
• level, line and plumb line.

It would be nice to get a punch - for making holes in the cut panel. If necessary, longitudinal holes can even be drilled with a drill with a narrow drill bit.

Surface preparation and insulation of the base

Since siding refers to ventilated facades, you can use any insulation - from mineral wool to the foam. The main thing is to follow the rule of increasing vapor permeability from inside the building to the outside, so as not to create greenhouse effect. Well, it’s good to isolate the hygroscopic insulation from moisture from the outside.

Before laying insulation wooden surfaces treated with an antiseptic. If the house is on a columnar or screw foundation, first it is packed around the perimeter of the base wooden frame, and insulation is attached to it. It is important to leave about 5 cm of gap between the bottom plank of the frame and the blind area - for possible seasonal heaving of the soil.

The puncture sites are sealed with foam.

Do-it-yourself lathing device for installing basement siding

An incorrect pitch of the sheathing will lead to the fact that it will not be possible to fix the panels in the center of the mounting holes, and the lock will be tightened.

The sheathing for siding can be either wooden or metal. In the first version everything wooden blocks need to be well soaked with antiseptic. Metallic profile you need to take a reinforced one - a profile for plasterboard in this case is not suitable even despite the greater weight square meter GCR compared to vinyl panels.

The racks of the sheathing must be verified by level or plumb. A distance of 30-40 cm is allowed between vertical slats; it is important to maintain strictly 46 cm between horizontal slats - this is due to the size of the panels themselves.

It is important to carefully study the instructions included with the siding and adhere to them. In case of discrepancies in the installation technology with the instructions, the warranty on the panel is automatically canceled.

Step-by-step instructions for laying siding panels

When the frame for the siding is ready, you can begin installing the siding itself:

1. The corner elements are attached first. After this, a horizontal line is marked along the entire perimeter for attaching the starting bar. You need to leave a small distance between the corners and the starting bar - about 6 mm. This is done to compensate for the thermal expansion of the plastic, which can be quite large on a hot sunny day.



2. A gap is also left at the junction of the two starting strips. This general rule installation of any siding elements.
3. It is important to remember that all siding elements are fastened with self-tapping screws, nails or staples in the center of the mounting holes; however, they cannot be driven in all the way. The panels must move - this will prevent a “wave” due to thermal expansion.



4. The first panel is always attached to the left corner. If the siding imitates masonry, you need to cut off its left edge. The siding is inserted into the corner with its even edge, and the bottom edge hooks onto launch pad. The evenness of the installation is checked by a level - if the first row is laid unevenly, all the others will also be laid crookedly and this cannot be corrected.



5. All subsequent panels are installed closely, simply inserted into the lock of the previous one. When installing the last panel in a row, it should be taken into account that its length should not be less than 20 cm. Otherwise, you need to cut the penultimate panel to the missing length.
6. If you are using flat siding, you can use special H-panels allowing the joint to be closed. When installing “overlapping”, it is better to lay the panels with the joint facing the sun - so in clear weather it will not be noticeable.





7. If the base is wide, the second row is mounted in the same way as the first. The final element of the basement siding is the flashing. It can be either metal or plastic. To decorate the corners, a triangular hole is cut out in the ebb required size, and the bend area after installation is filled with sealant. You can also use a special starting ebb, which is also a starting strip for the siding above it.

What else you need to know about siding

Basement siding is much stronger than wall siding, but also more expensive. Despite this, its thermal expansion is still quite high, especially for elements in the dark color scheme. You shouldn’t save money and buy cheap analogues from proven companies - faded vinyl on the sunny side will upset the owners in just a couple of years.

Those who want to add originality to their home by using facade panels and additional elements of contrasting colors must be prepared for the fact that they will have to take into account the difference in thermal expansion during installation. So, dark parts “walk” more than light ones, it is better to leave a larger temperature gap between them.

Another unpleasant moment when installing siding is that the slots are located in such a way that it is quite difficult to achieve uniform vertical sheathing. To do this, before attaching each subsequent siding panel, it is better to try it on and, if necessary, drill additional horizontal holes if the factory ones do not fit on the racks.

Little tricks for houses with uneven grounds

Often the blind area on an uneven area around a house on a columnar or pile foundation is not leveled. Because of this, the base turns out to be oblique. It is important to level the top line of the plinth by cutting bottom edge panels.

In the case of a beveled bottom edge, the starting strip is replaced with a J-profile, into which the panel is inserted. If a second row is required, it is already installed in a standard way, since the top edge of the bottom row is set horizontally in level.

To make it easier to lay siding on a slanted base, where the height of one panel is not enough, but there are too many two panels, you can cheat. The starting bar is attached to the top and aligned horizontally. In this case, the panels are laid bottom to top and from right to left. For a non-specialist, there is no difference in appearance, but you can significantly save on materials, because you don’t have to trim both rows of panels.

The video shows the process of cladding the plinth wooden house siding, as well as instructions for “dummies” on how to construct an outflow using improvised means.

Wandstein facade panels are an innovative development of 2011. Strong and durable - they are indispensable for cladding ground floor Your house.

At the same time, a unique design conveying beauty and grace natural stone, will allow you to decorate the entire facade of the house, as well as emphasize its individual architectural elements(balconies, arches, gazebos, fences).

Wandstein external corners are ideal for framing windows, doors, and other entrance groups. Especially beautiful combination with facade system Holzblock.

New optimal size panels, ClickSchloss locking technology, ZugFest production technology will ensure fast and reliable connection of panels, as well as constant appearance throughout the entire service life.

The system includes a panel in two architectural solutions"TUF" and "SKOL", fasteners and mounting angle profile, starting profile, j-profile, low tide.

Installation rules

2. Be sure to take into account changes in panel size due to temperature changes. Position the panel to compensate for these deformations as much as possible. Maintain the necessary expansion joints, do not press on the locks of the previous row when laying the panel to avoid warping. The panels need to be easily secured with locks, without pressure, while at the same time ensuring their secure fixation.

3. Please note that if installation is planned to be carried out at low temperatures, it is better to store the panel in warm room, since the flexibility of the material increases.

4. Wandstein facade panels should be used for finishing vertical surfaces.

6. Before starting work, it is necessary to ensure that the flat surface walls. Installation on metal or wood sheathing is recommended.

7. Make sure that nails or other fasteners penetrate the surface at least 11 mm.

8. For registration internal corners J-profiles are used. Before installing them, you need to cover the corner with rolled waterproofing.

9. To design external corners, Wandstein external corner profiles are used, which are installed on their own mounting profile. When tiling corners around doorways It may be necessary to install Wandstein spacers under the mounting profile.

Installation of Wandstein facade panels

External corner cladding Wandstein

Framing internal corners

Particular attention should be paid to the design of internal corners. To do this, two j-profiles are installed. The first j-profile is fixed strictly vertically with self-tapping screws on metal sheathing, in the center of the hole, with a gap of 1 mm. Then, the plinth panel is snapped inside the j-profile.

Low tide installation

Product care

Holzplast siding does not require maintenance. Unless, after a certain amount of time, it can be washed using regular garden hose. If the dirt cannot be removed with a stream of water, you can attach a soft brush with a long handle, used for car washing, to the end of a garden hose. To remove contaminants that cannot be washed off with water, use a solution - one part of a cationic detergent(for example, Tide) plus 2/3 parts trisodium phosphate (for example, Soilax) plus 4 liters of water. To remove mold, replace one liter of water in the above solution with one liter of 5% sodium hydrochloride (such as Clorox). To remove particularly stubborn stains, abrasive cleaning powders (for example, Comet or Ajax) can be used without damaging the siding. Cleaning solutions should only be left on the siding surface for a few minutes before being rinsed off with water.

Fasteners FineBir basement siding is attached to the sheathing with self-tapping screws or stainless steel nails. The length of the leg must be such that it penetrates into the sheathing (base) material to a depth of at least 3 cm. The diameter of the leg is 3 mm, the diameter of the cap is 9 mm.

Base. To install FineBer basement siding, sheathing is used. It is placed horizontally, in increments of 44 cm. (Attention! For the series " Wild stone" - the distance between the lower edges of the first and second slats is 43.5 cm, between the remaining slats 44 cm. For the "Large Stone" and "Facing Brick" series - the distance between the lower edges of the first and second slats is 42 cm, between the remaining slats 44 cm. For the "Natural Stone" series - the distance between the lower edges of the first and second slats is 40.4 cm, between the remaining slats 42.4 cm. For the "Brick" and "Rock" series - the distance between the lower edges of the first and second slats is 41.6 cm , between the other slats 43.6 cm.) Separately, the sheathing bars are attached along the perimeter of door and window openings, at the corners, along the lower and upper edges of the cladding area. The sheathing is assembled from 40x40 mm bars, the wood moisture content is not more than 15-20%. Preliminary bars impregnated with fire protection. To make the cladding more rigid, additional horizontal slats are attached in the center between the main bars. All bars and laths of the sheathing must form a flat surface. Thermal insulation is placed between the bars.

Attaching basement siding. have perforated mounting holes. When fastening, the legs of nails or self-tapping screws must fall strictly into their center, enter perpendicular to the plane of the cladding without tilting or bending. The fastener head should not touch the surface of the material (leave a temperature gap of 1-1.5 mm, see Fig. 4). Each panel is attached at least at five points. When attaching J-profiles and internal corner elements, the spacing between fasteners does not exceed 25 cm.

Temperature gaps. Basement siding and components for it can change linear dimensions due to temperature changes. To avoid temperature deformations, during installation, provide gaps between the cladding elements (ends of panels and vertical profiles, strips). When installed in summer they are 5-6 mm, in winter - 9-10 mm. Westmet specialists do not recommend installing façade panels at temperatures below -10°C. If installation is performed with negative temperature, all cladding elements are first kept in a warm room for 10 hours. When installing vertical strips and profiles, the top fasteners are placed at the upper edge of the mounting hole, all other fasteners are placed in the center of the mounting holes (see Fig. 6). The listed requirements are met in order to compensate for the compression and expansion of the material during temperature changes and to prevent their deformation, warping, and cracking.

FineBir facade panels are installed horizontally, from the left edge of the wall to the right, as shown in Fig. 3.

Installation procedure

• starting bar;
• external corners, auxiliary components;
• ordinary panels.

Starting bar. Installed along the bottom edge of the cladding. When installed, it is located horizontally, at the same level along the entire perimeter of the building (installation lines must coincide at all corners). The bottom edge of the plank coincides with the bottom edge of the first batten of the sheathing. At the edges of the walls, 30 cm from each corner, the plank is interrupted by 30 mm to provide a temperature gap (see Fig. 1). The plank is fastened every 30 cm or more often.

Facing without starting strip. If the foundation line is uneven, starting bar not installed. Basement siding is attached to the sheathing, having previously been cut in place from below. To attach the bottom edge of the panels, pre-drill through their seams oval holes, similar in shape to factory perforation.

External and internal corners. The outer corner is attached to a vertical sheathing bar. The first fastener is made through the upper perforation hole so that the element “hangs” on it. Subsequent fasteners are placed in the center of the holes on both sides. The bottom edge of the corner element should not reach the starting strip by 5 mm. External corners are assembled along their length from several elements. They are connected to each other and fastened in the center of the perforations (Fig. 3.). Every corner element fastened at least at three points on each side (6 fasteners in total). They are not fixed rigidly to the sheathing; a gap is left between the head of the screw or nail and the surface of the corner so that it can move freely during thermal expansion.

The internal corner is universal; it is attached to the sheathing through perforation holes on the internal perpendicular joints of the walls. The facade panels are fixed in the grooves so as to obtain an even joint (see Fig. 5).

J-profile. Installed along the perimeter of window and door openings, along the upper edge of the cladding as a finishing element (Fig. 6, 7).

Installation of facade panels. The first row is placed on the starting bar. On back side basement siding - L-shaped locks, with the help of which they are connected to the strip. The first and last element in the row is cut at a right angle. When installing one row, the panels are assembled without securing them to mark the cutting line. They are made so that the last panel is no shorter than 30 cm. The cut pieces can be used as the beginning or end in the next rows (Fig. 2).

The left edge of the first panel in the row is placed at an outer corner. To do this, it is cut at a right angle. When fastening, the lower edge of the trimmed panel is inserted into the starting strip, the panel is moved to the corner, leaving a temperature gap. The next one is inserted into the starting strip and connected to the previous one with grooves, pushed in until it stops, as shown in Fig. 2, 3.

If shutters, a canopy, or other additional elements, their fastening is carried out in the sheathing bars. Mounting holes similar to perforation holes are pre-drilled in the cladding.

For Fineber series "Stone"

For Fineber series "Stone Wild"

For Fineber series "Large Stone"

For Fineber series "Natural Stone"

For Fineber series "Brick"

IN construction industry facade panels have another name - basement siding. This is due to the fact that the panels serve to exterior finishing the basement of the building, the place where the wall adjoins the foundation. Installation plinth panels, like the installation of any other siding produced by our company, can be carried out not only with the help of builders, but also independently. If you do not want to deal with installation or wall covering, this can be done by qualified workers - professional installers of our dealers.

For those who decided to install basement panels and install siding themselves, on our website you can download detailed instructions. This manual is adapted specifically for the installation of Alta-Profile basement siding - this is a great advantage for choosing our products.

Using the proposed manual, you will have the opportunity to carry out the entire work process with valuable advice from professionals in this field. The recommendations contained in the instructions contain explanations for each stage of installation and installation of the panels. Following the instructions of specialists, you will quickly and skillfully carry out all the finishing activities of the building. You can download the instructions from the link below.

Installation instructions for siding and facade panels

Detailed information about the procedure and installation rules for all collections of vertical and horizontal siding from Alta Profile, as well as facade panels, soffits, platbands, slopes and corner elements.

Basic installation instructions

When installing panels, always move from left to right. Complete one wall before moving on to the second. Always start installation from the bottom of the wall.

Similar to any exterior vinyl building materials panels expand and contract with temperature changes. Therefore, during installation it is necessary to position the panels appropriately to compensate for thermal deformations. Be careful to press the panels onto the pins of the panels of the bottom row, as this will reduce the expansion joints, which can lead to warping of the panels. Additionally, when attaching panels, place the nails in the middle of the nail holes and leave space between the nail head and the panel, which will ensure additional features for thermal expansion of the panel.

Use aluminum or galvanized nails to fasten the panels, which will prevent the appearance of rusty stains on the panels. Nails must enter the mounting base strictly perpendicularly and in no case at an angle.

When storing panels in heated rooms, their flexibility increases, which makes installation easier when low temperatures(below 5°C). The panels should be stored on their edges, following the arrows on the packaging indicating the top and bottom positions.

The panel begins to shrink at temperatures below 7°C. If installing in cold weather, make sure you leave an additional 3mm gap for expansion of the panels.

The panels are intended for use in a horizontal position only and are not intended or warranted for installation on roofs or as floor coverings. However, it is permissible to use panels on attic roofs with a slope of 9/12 or more.

When installing, it is important that the surface to which the panels are attached is smooth, level and nailable (for example, you can use moisture-resistant plywood 11 mm thick); if the wall surface does not require direct hammering of nails into it, then first fix a wooden or metal one to the wall lathing.

The insulation used with the panels should not be foil or film; the manufacturer recommends using “breathable” insulation materials.

If there is a need to drive nails through the front surface of the panels, pre-drill a hole in an inconspicuous place, for example, at the joint between the tiles. This hole should be bigger size, than the core of a nail or screw, to provide thermal deformations, but less than the diameter of the head. The nail head can be coated with paint of a suitable color.

Do not install all corners at the same time to avoid the possibility of fitting and proper alignment of the panels. Do not install more than two corners at the same time.

Secure the sheathing to the wall surface. The sheathing can be made of wood or metal.

In warm climates where the ground does not freeze, you can anchor the sheathing into the ground.

In cold climates where the ground freezes, attach the sheathing to the house by hanging it at least 6 inches above ground level. The sheathing made in this way should be supported on the ground using pegs. The resulting space can be filled with soil during landscaping to give the house an aesthetically finished appearance.

Vertical sheathing elements should be spaced at intervals of no more than 91 cm, while the horizontal crossbars should be connected flush for installation of the panels.

To determine the position of the horizontal sheathing, measure 46 cm from the bottom of the house wall. In this case, the top row should fall under the top file of the panel, exactly in the part where the nail holes are located. The top edge can be finished with an inverted unequal channel (J-profile) or finishing strip. If the openings are more than 91 cm, then additional strapping is required for every 46 cm.

Set the starting profile along the pre-drawn chalk line. The profile should be located at a distance of 10 cm from the corner of the building, and an allowance for the width of the corner panel should also be taken into account. The starting profile is fastened with nails every 30 cm. The starting profile is installed evenly and strictly horizontally.

If necessary, cut the bottom row panels to the required height with a circular saw using a fine-tooth blade set in the opposite direction. When cutting into the face of a panel, reverse the saw to minimize chipping.

If pruning is necessary lower parts panels, then the starting profile is not used. In this case, the panels are secured with nails through the front surface (driving at least 5 nails into 1 panel) in inconspicuous places, for example along the seam line. Driving nails through the face requires pre-drilling holes for the fasteners.

Cutting panels

Determine the number of panels needed to cover the wall. To do this, divide full length walls in centimeters (minus the width of the corner pieces used) by 102 cm. The final panel should not be shorter than 30 cm. It may be necessary to adjust the size of the first panels to accommodate the final panel. The panel can be cut in 20 cm steps anywhere on the panel, without allowing the seams to overlap, so that the mounted structure looks as natural as possible. Do not cut more than one end piece at a time, as adjustments may be required in subsequent rows.

Working from left to right, install the first corner of the brick or stone panel with the release approximately 3mm below the bottom edge of the starting profile. Slide the first panel to the left, resting it flush against the corner. Carefully install the first panel onto the support strip with the correct entry of the mounting pins, without reducing the expansion joints. Push the panel to the left until it stops 2 mm before the corner.

When installing panels brickwork align the horizontal mortar joint line with the corner.

Note. Stone-look panels have a random pattern; their mortar joints should not coincide with the corner.

Drive the nails evenly through the backing, making sure the nail heads just lightly touch the panel. Place the next panel into the starting profile and move it towards the first panel. Install the next rows by repeating steps 2, 3. To obtain natural look brick or stone masonry, offset each subsequent row by 20 cm.

Do not push panels from top to bottom on top of each other under any circumstances. Lower the panel smoothly down so that the panels are fastened naturally.

Installation can be made easier by slightly lifting right side panels. Check the fastening of all locking pins.

When installing stone-look or brick-look panels on corners or J-profiles, it may be necessary to adjust the mounting pins, stands and channels on the back side of the panels at a distance of up to 8 cm from the corner, or use a J-profile to better fit. J-profiles are made to match the color of the solution and are available with grooves of 19 mm and 28 mm. A size of 19 mm is best suited for “brick-like” panels, and 28 mm is best suited for “stone-like” panels.

The panels have posts in the form of mounting pins on the back of the panels. When installing the next rows of panels, do not press the panels by the posts. These stops prevent the panels from warping due to temperature changes.

When driving nails, remember that they should only lightly touch the panel, allowing it to move as the temperature fluctuates.

Thermal clearances

Remember, panels can expand and contract by up to 6mm. The average spacing of joints between tiles in a panel is approximately 13 mm. At temperatures around -1°C, position panels so that the tile joint between panels is approximately 16mm wide to allow for expansion in warm weather. At temperatures around 16°C the gap should be reduced to 13mm to allow for expansion and contraction with temperature fluctuations. At temperatures around 32°C, a gap of about 10mm should be provided to ensure compression in cold weather.

When adjusting cut parts of panels between windows or around openings, trimming is necessary for an allowance of 3 mm when installing around panels at low temperatures. The same clearance may be required when adjusting panels at vault toes, at roof corners, around junctions, and in other areas where sufficient panel movement is not possible.

Intersperse the initial sections of each next row panels with a step of 20 cm. In this case, the closing part in the row should not be shorter than 30 cm.

You can use J-channels to trim inside corners, or you can mark and cut panels to fit in a corner. It is recommended to level the corner before installing the panels with vinyl plastic or aluminum tape.

When finishing the wall, you may need to drive nails through the face. When driving nails through the face, drill a hole in an inconspicuous place, such as a mortar joint. This hole should be larger in diameter than the shank of the nail or screw to allow for thermal deformation, but smaller than the diameter of the head.

Installation of finishing board

The “brick” and “stone” finishing board is installed on top of the last top row of panels.

The trim bead can be heated and bent for installation on corners. Before heating, it is recommended to first make a triangular cut in the finishing board at the bend.

Notes

Where two corners overlap vertically, adjustments are required (during installation) to keep the corner or panel level. A vertical adjustment of 13 mm is possible.

Fitting panels between windows and around openings requires an allowance of approximately 3 mm for the expansion of the product.

Fastening objects to panels
Never attach reinforcement directly to the sheathing. When fastening rebar, first drill a hole larger than the diameter of the fastener to allow for expansion and contraction.

The reinforcement fasteners must penetrate the solid substrate underneath the panels.