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Starting profile for siding. How to properly install a siding starter bar. Why accessories are needed

An important role in the decoration of walls with siding is played by auxiliary elements, including siding strips that perform the function of fasteners, sealing, details to improve the appearance. Professionally, all this is called a profile.

Frame mounting technology

According to the technology for performing the work of installing the siding, it is required, first of all, to fix a special frame on which the sheets will be fixed. Fastening to the crate of the frame (see) is carried out using self-tapping screws and nails at a distance.

Many profiles are manufactured industrially, the main purpose is:

  • It is a tight joint sealing seams.
  • Edging finished areas to separate door and window openings.
  • In addition, such elements are used to align the junction line of wall and front siding sheets.

In practice, the following profile parts are used:

  • Profile for corners.
  • Siding j plank.
  • Profile for framing windows and doors.
  • Finishing element.

Description of profile elements for mounting siding sheets


You can choose the most suitable elements for use in each specific design. This is shown in detail in the video in this article.

Advice. When decorating the walls of the house with siding sheets with your own hands, it is important to choose the right profile materials.

The starting direction bar is a profile that is used for laying the first sheets:

  • It is mounted across the frame on a rigid base.
  • On a crate made of wooden bars, this can be a corner; on a frame made of galvanized steel rails marked CD, this is a UD metal profile.
  • The starting bar is usually made in a length of 3660 mm.

Advice. When choosing this element, you do not need to focus on color, since it is completely covered with finishing sheets.

Application of the finishing strip


It covers the edges of the sheets, this allows you to visually align the lines of the side joints, which helps to improve the appearance. Such a profile is installed across the frame and mounted on a rigid base, the installation method practically does not differ from fixing the starting element.

Finishing strip for metal siding or plastic

It has a length of 3360 mm.

For fixing, you can use screws or nails:

  • Self-tapping screws should not be tightened by 1-2 turns, and nails should not be screwed in by about 1 - 1.5 mm.
  • This is necessary to protect against climatic changes in order to allow the material to expand and contract with temperature fluctuations.

The installation instructions for siding sheets determine the use of a corner strip for finishing wall corners:

  • Manufacturers make this element 3055 mm long.

Note! The installation method is arbitrary and does not differ from fixing the finishing element.

  • The distance of the outer rail of the frame from the corner of the wall should be approximately 100 mm on one side and the other.

Finishing outer corner practically does not differ from the internal device.

jtrim-profile


The length of such a profile is 3660 mm, the method of fixation on the frame is arbitrary:

  • The element marked j - the chamfer is framed by cornices, balconies under the roof (see).
  • It is necessary to fix such an element with stainless steel screws.

Note. To close the recesses in the walls, which are window and door openings, a edging strip for siding is used, it is also called a "window profile".

Its length is 3050 mm. It is attached to the elements of the crate by an arbitrary method.

H - bar


To install it, you first need to mount a solid base from the profile. Fastening is made through 400 mm, which ensures reliability and durability.

Trim and hanging elements should be included in the accessories for siding:

  • They are used as decorative finishes. The profile marked "j" is used to emphasize the transition from one finish to another.

The drain strip for siding is mounted on the basement transition to the wall:

  • It also plays a decorative function as one of the interior elements.
  • A starting profile is mounted on top of it, and a metal element to form a solid foundation.
  • Data decorative elements are made with a length of 3660 mm.
  • Studying the technology of installing siding elements will greatly simplify the task of arranging the walls of the house when the work is done without the involvement of specialists.

The main criterion that sets the price


The cost of each building element depends on the material of manufacture, size and configuration:

  • Depending on the quality, the price increases further, so products from well-known manufacturers will be more expensive.
  • Profile quality requirements for companies that have established their brand on the market are higher. Visually, this is imperceptible, but it is positively manifested during the work.

The table shows the most common profile strips used as an addition to siding panels, as well as their standard sizes:

The indicated dimensions are standard values. They make the task much easier. correct calculation volume necessary materials for building walls.

What makes it possible to save cash. For more detailed information we invite you to watch the video in this article and understand the nuances in detail.

When performing siding finishing, you will definitely need special components. Some of them perform a decorative and protective role, and some, such as the plinth for the facade, are needed to fix the material or as guides.

In any case, it will not be possible to do without additional elements.

All manufacturers of this facing material, in addition to the siding itself, they produce a certain set of components designed for its installation.

They may differ slightly from each other in profile, color, size, and even have different names, but at the same time they are all designed to perform the same tasks:

  • Protection of the "weak" places of the facade from moisture and other atmospheric influences;
  • Design of facade nodes;
  • Fixing panels.

Plinth or starting bar for basement siding is the element with which the wall decoration begins. It is installed along a horizontal line marked 40 mm above the bottom edge of the trim.

Subsequently, the lower edge of the panel is inserted into the starting fastener. The upper edge of the cladding is attached to the crate or wall. Below we will take a closer look at how to install the plinth bar with your own hands.

Note!
The cladding completely hides starting bar, so it is not necessary to match the color of the panels.

I must say that this part is used not only for the installation of siding. In particular, plinth strips for tiles and other facing materials are used.

Connecting and decorative accessories

As mentioned above, there are quite a few additional elements that are used for different purposes:

  • H-profile (connecting fastener)- for connecting panels to each other when increasing the length or when switching from one color to another.
  • Drain or hanging bar- used to protect the basement of the building and windows bends. Mounted at the junction of the plinth with the finish or at the top of the openings.
  • External and internal corner- accessories for connecting panels at the intersection of planes.
  • J-bevel (wind panel) used in the finishing of roof eaves.
  • Trim and near-window panels are applied at finishing of door and window openings.
  • – is installed before the installation of the last panel, masking its perforated or trimmed edge.

Note!
From configuration and availability additional elements, depends on the price of the facing material.

Hence it follows that necessary set components largely depends on in which area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building the siding is used. For example, for the kitchen wind bar not needed, but platbands will come in handy, while for a completely different set of parts.

From mounting base plate further lining depends, therefore this process special attention needs to be paid.

So, the instructions for mounting the starting bar are as follows:

  • First of all, it is necessary to find the lower point of the future lining, after which it is necessary to set aside 40 mm from it upwards.
  • Then, using the building level, a horizontal line is drawn along the perimeter of the facade. If the siding is attached to the crate, it is necessary to make marks on the vertical profiles.
  • Next, the part with the upper edge is applied to the line or markup and fixed with self-tapping screws to load-bearing structure or wall through perforation holes.
  • When mounting the “start”, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 5-6 mm between the ends of the fasteners, this will allow them to expand freely with temperature changes. Otherwise, a wave effect can be obtained on the lining. The same distance should be left between fasteners and frame elements.

Note!
Self-tapping screws and nails should not be hammered from the edge, but into the middle of an oblong hole.
In this case, the fasteners should not be very tight so that the part can move along the wall, within the mounting hole.

In the photo - installation finishing bar

For mounting vinyl, acrylic or metal siding various profiled guide rails are used. The developers of a particular collection always attach a document to the packaging with panels, where instructions for installing and using certain components are printed.

Profiled planks for siding

Each of the guide profiled strips has its own special shape and serves a specific purpose in the installation of siding. All profiles are different in size, so the price for them is different.

Below, in the description, the sizes that are most often found in all manufacturers will be indicated.

starting bar

  • The starting profile for siding usually has a length of 3660 mm and is used for mounting the first panel. Considering the fact that starting bar siding is installed across the crate, then a rigid base is substituted under it.
    Yes, on wooden crate it can be a perforated corner or rail, on a galvanized CD crate - a UD profile, and for a branded ventilated facade subsystem, such a base is provided by the manufacturer.
  • It is noteworthy that when installing siding with your own hands, the color of the starting bar does not matter at all. The fact is that it is completely covered by the panel and is not visible on the cladding. Such a profile is rigidly attached to the base with nails (only on wood) or self-tapping screws.

  • When installing the very last panel, a siding finisher is used to clamp the edge of the cut sheet.
    Such a profile, like the starting one, is also attached across the crate, therefore, it requires a toughening of the base. For rigidity when installing this bar, the same methods are used as for start profile.
  • The length that a siding finish usually has is 3660 mm. Such a profile is attached arbitrarily, that is, the self-tapping screw does not screw in 1-2 turns, and the nail does not reach 1-1.5 mm. This allows the material to withstand any drops. outdoor temperature, freely expanding and contracting imperceptibly to the eye.

Inner and outer corner


  • The length of the strip for mounting the inner corner of the siding, like the outer one, is 3050 mm. Mounting is optional. Conditions for batten profiles are similar to the outer corner.

J-trim bar and J-bevel

  • J-trim profile is used at the end of the cladding space, that is, it is installed at protruding structures on the wall, and also if the siding ends on one plane without transition to another. The length of such a bar is 3660 mm. Mounting is optional.

  • J-bevel or siding windshield is used for narrow strips of the finished plane. So, a profile may be needed when facing cornices or a balcony with a roof.
    The length of such a chamfer is usually 3660 mm. Although it is intended to be installed in finishing profiles, it is better to fix it with stainless steel screws through the lining.

Peri-window and H profile


  • H profile or connecting strip for siding is used for joining panels along the length. Considering that the bar is installed along, additional horizontal profiles are mounted on the frame for it, 40-50 cm apart. Its length is 3050 mm and it is attached arbitrarily.

The initial stage of siding installation is the installation of accessories. First, it is more convenient to install vertical accessories (outer and inner corners, connecting H-profiles), as well as window and door framing, then horizontal accessories (starting strips), horizontal siding, filing of roof overhangs and.

Before installing siding, make sure all wall planes are level and straight. basis smooth walls can serve as metal or sheets of moisture-resistant plywood. If it is necessary to additionally insulate the walls of the house, a film is laid under the crate, which protects the insulation from moisture.

Installation of starting bars

Before installing the starter strip, you need to find the bottom point of the wall. Using a level, as well as chalk or pencil, you need to draw a perfectly horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the building, starting from any corner. After drawing the line, you must return to the same point from which you started.

Now you need to find the lowest point of the facade relative to the horizon.

To do this, measure the distances from the line you drew at the corners of the building to the bottom of the wall.

The point where the distance is the largest will be the starting point for mounting the starting strip.

Install the beacon 4.5 cm above the lowest point of the wall and draw another line in the same way around the entire facade of the building. Or you can measure the distance from the beacon to the line drawn at the bottom of the wall and mark the same distance along the perimeter of the building.

At the corners of the house, it is necessary to measure a distance equal to the width of the outer corner shelf, taking into account the gap for thermal contraction-expansion.

Align the top edge of the starting bar with the drawn line and attach to the crate with self-tapping screws.

When installing the rest of the starting strips, do not forget to indent the temperature gaps.

Installation of internal and external corners


Cut the outer corner to the required length minus 6 mm (compression-expansion gap).

Lower the lower edge of the outer corner by 4 mm (compression-expansion gap).

Install self-tapping screws into the top of the topmost perforation on both sides of the outside corner.

Install the remaining self-tapping screws in the center of the perforations at a distance of no more than 40 cm.

If it is necessary to vertically join the outer corners, it is most convenient to make an "overlap" joint.

In order for the connection to protect the facade of the house from wind and snow loads, the upper profile is installed on top of the lower one.

On the upper accessory, it is necessary to cut off the bar with perforations and leave only the outer decorative part.

Install the bottom outside corner first, then the top.

Note! The height of the cut off part of the corner must not be less than the required compression-expansion gap, and the overlap of the accessories must be equal to the temperature gap plus 2 centimeters.

It is most convenient to mark the joint on the ground or on a table. To do this, lay the two outer corners on top of each other with the required overlap (20 mm). The intersection is marked and both mounting strips of the upper accessory must be cut off according to the received marks.

The installation technology of the inner corner is similar to the installation of the outer one.


More a budget option mounting an outer corner or an inner corner - using two J-profiles instead of the corresponding accessory . The corner of the house in this case will be "typesetting".

Installation of H-profiles connecting


Consider in advance the location of the H-profiles on the facade of the house. In these places it will be necessary to install additional profiles. As a rule, the connecting H-profile is installed in the middle of the wall and / or they distinguish window and door openings.

It is advisable to use H-profiles on long blank walls. They also need to be installed at the junction of the house with any extension, which has seasonal fluctuations different from the house.

Since the H-profile belongs to vertical accessories, the same rules must be observed during its installation as for the installation of, for example, external and internal corners(the first fastener is installed in the upper part of the upper mounting hole, the rest are strictly in the middle).

Necessary gaps for compression-expansion in this case:

  • the upper part of the H-profile must be lower than the roof overhang by approx. 2 mm.
  • Bottom part H-profile - about 4 mm below the starting bar and VINYL-ON siding panels.

Remember to cut off the perforated strip and leave only the decorative part of the accessory.

If there is design features(for example, a protruding base) that interfere with the thermal expansion of the H-profile, it is necessary to leave a gap of 4-6 mm.

The vertical joining of H-profiles is carried out in exactly the same way as the joining of external and internal corners, i.e. necessary:

  • Make an overlap top profile to the bottom.
  • Cut off the perforated strip.
  • First install the lower profile, and then the upper one.

Note! The height of the cut off part of the profile must not be less than the required compression-expansion gap, and the overlap of the accessories must be equal to the temperature gap plus 2 centimeters.

Installation of window and door frames

Window and door openings in relation to the wall can be recessed deep or located on the same level with the wall.

The VINYL-ON product line, which you can buy at Stroymet’s roofing and siding sales offices, includes special accessories for finishing various types openings.

J-profiles, near-window profiles or special VINYL-ON j-platbands can be used to finish windows and doors.

There are two main ways to frame the decorative part of the openings - this is the so-called "overlap" and "corner" method.

Note! As with the “overlap” installation method, as well as with “corner” installation, the vertical profiles at the joints are wound under the upper horizontal, and the lower horizontal under the vertical ones.

The gap for compression-expansion in this case is in the upper part of the profiles framing the openings on the sides - 1-3 mm. At the bottom - 3-5 mm. The lower horizontal profile is shortened by 2-3 mm on each side to allow thermal contraction-expansion.

When installing profiles "at an angle" there is no need to cut off both the vertical and horizontal profile at an angle. In the upper mounting nodes, it is enough to cut the horizontal profile at an angle, and in the lower - vertical.

This principle is applied both when mounting j-profiles, and when mounting j-platbands and near-window profiles.

Finishing of openings with J-profile VINYL-ON

Finishing openings with a j-profile is carried out according to the following principles:

To finish the opening, you will need 4 pieces of J-profile.

The size of each of the profiles is calculated as "the length of the corresponding part of the opening plus two widths of the perpendicular profile."

For example, in the figure, the width of the window opening is 1200 mm, the width of the perpendicular profile is 77 mm. For the upper part of the window, you will need a profile with a length of 1200 + 77 + 77 = 1354 mm.

Since the framing of window and doorways performs not only aesthetic, but also protective function, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of water runoff. To do this, on a profile that is installed on the upper part of the opening, Stroymet installers recommend making cuts equal to the width of the perpendicular profile and bending the resulting “tongue” down.

The side profiles are installed in such a way that the cut-out “tongue” is inside them. To do this, you need to cut a piece of vinyl in the side profiles. Be sure to leave a small gap for compression-expansion. The vertically located profile should not rest against the upper horizontal one. In this case, 3-5 mm will be enough.

Note! This principle is also used when installing near-window profiles and when installing j-platbands.

Finishing of openings with VINYL-ON near-window profile

The VINYL-ON range of accessories for installing vinyl siding includes a “near-window profile” specially designed for finishing recessed openings. The width of the working panel of the profile is 215 mm, which allows you to finish fairly deep-seated windows and doors.

In general, the implementation methodology installation work when installing a near-window profile, it repeats the principles of working with a j-profile. The main difference lies in the installation technology of the sloping part of the profile.

On the inner sloping part of the window opening, install the finishing strips. Subsequently, they need to "bring" the sloping part of the near-window profile.

To preserve the possibility of thermal contraction-expansion of the near-window profile:

  • the working surface of the near-window profile (forming the slope of the opening) in horizontal profiles must be shorter than the width of the opening by the value of the temperature gap on each side.
    In this case, in the upper profile, it is necessary to cut a piece right size, and in the bottom you can leave the "tongue" and bend it to the slope of the opening.
  • the working surface of the vertical profile in the upper joint abuts against the horizontal profile. In the lower docking node, it is necessary to leave a gap for compression-expansion.

Finishing of openings with j-platband VINYL-ON

For framing windows and doors installed in the same plane with the wall, VINYL-ON offers a special accessory - j-platband.

The order of installation of j-platbands VINYL-ON is similar to the order of installation of near-window profiles. First, the upper and lower horizontal profiles are installed, and then the vertical side profiles.

Do not forget to leave gaps for thermal contraction-expansion.

Installation of finishing strips and fillets (cornice moldings)


Since the finishing strips are located directly under the eaves or soffit, they are installed almost simultaneously with the last panels. horizontal siding. However, the finish strip must be installed prior to installing the last panel of siding.

As a rule, the top panel of the siding needs to be trimmed. In this case, using a punch, make special "petals" in the panel adjacent to the finish strip, and slide the panel inside the finish strip.

If you plan to install VINYL-ON spotlights on the eaves of the house, it is more convenient to use the special accessory VINYL-ON - Galtel (cornice molding) for mounting the last siding panel.

The fillet is attached not to the wall, but to the eaves of the roof, so it can be fixed at a distance necessary for the “hook” of the siding panels.

Insert the siding panel with petals into the lock of the penultimate panel. top insert into the final profile and fasten the panel from the bottom up.

Fillet (cornice molding) VINYL-ON can also be placed simply on top of a facade finished with siding. In this case, on the last panel of the siding, it is necessary to make additional mounting holes with a puncher. Under the siding panel, if necessary, a leveling wooden plank is installed.

Panel fastened in the usual way. The fillet is installed on top of the panel and closes the mounting holes.

Installing accessories on the gable


As a receiving profile when finishing roof gables, a j-profile, Galtel (cornice molding) or an internal corner is used.

In general, the installation of j-profiles, fillets and internal corners on the gable of the roofs is carried out according to the rules for installing vertical accessories. If it is necessary to join two profiles, "overlap" the upper profile onto the lower one.

When joining two mounting profiles under the roof ridge, it is necessary to bring the front plate of the upper right profile inside the left one. To do this, you need to attach two profiles under the ridge and mark the docking point.

Cut the first profile along the marked line, in the second you need to remove only the bar with mounting holes without touching front part. During installation, you need to bring the front bar inside the first profile.

NOTE:

  • In the space under the eaves on the gables of the roofs, strong heating of the facade often occurs. In order to avoid heating j-profiles, indent 2-2.5 cm from the corner of the connection between the wall and the roof.
  • In the offices of Stroymet, in addition to Vinylon products, you can buy vinyl siding marks, .

Installing soffits and cornice boards

We remind you that the soffits must be installed before cutting and installing the panel of the last siding panel.

Device truss system V different houses may differ. It is important to understand that in order to ensure ventilation of the under-roof space the best option is open eaves overhang. Therefore, we recommend that you remove the old boards from the closed cornice overhang before carrying out work on the installation of spotlights and accessories.

In the middle of the cornice overhang, install an additional lath of the crate, into which you subsequently need to install fasteners

The receiving profiles, in which the spotlights will subsequently be mounted, must be installed parallel to each other.

To comply with this rule, you must first install the receiving profile on the eaves. Another receiving profile is installed at the required height directly on the wall of the house using a level.

To install the soffit into the receiving profiles, measure the distance between them (along the inside) and cut the panel 6-8 mm less than this size.

Lead the soffit into the receiving profile installed on the wall, and then into the profile installed on the cornice overhang.

The connection of soffits at the corners of the roof is usually done at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees.

Installation of horizontal siding

The easiest way to mount horizontal siding on a blank wall. But in this case, it is important to observe the following rules:

  • Snap the panels freely, without tightness, stop or special physical impact.
  • Be sure to leave room for thermal contraction and expansion of the panels.
  • Be sure to keep horizontal when installing panels. A slight distortion of one of them will lead to a distortion of the entire facade. To keep the panels horizontal, control this setting with a level after each row.

It is necessary to start the installation of siding panels from the corner of the house or from the doorway.

Slide the first panel into the mounting recess of the accessory. Hook the lock of the start bar with the lock of the panel and pull up until it clicks into place. But do not pull the panel up too much. remember, that installed panel must be able to move from side to side.

Panel fasteners start from the middle to the edges. Install the last fastener 10-15 cm from the end of the panel.

ATTENTION! It is forbidden to install horizontal siding to the stop in inner part vertical accessories.

The facade looks most aesthetically pleasing, on which the horizontal panels are interconnected using special accessory VINYL-ON (connecting H-profile).

If it is necessary to install overlapping panels, observe the following recommendations:

  • do not place panel joints under or above window openings.
  • after 2-3 rows of panels, change the location of the "overlap" on the wall.

In places of "overlapping" the panels must be trimmed as follows:


If there are any objects on the wall, always start the row of siding from the place where they are located. This will allow you to avoid an excessive number of siding panel joints.

As a rule, when framing window openings with horizontal siding, the siding panels under the window must be trimmed.

In order to mount the panel under the window, measure the width of the opening, add thermal contraction-expansion gaps to this size and cut a piece of the panel to the required depth. There will be enough clearance of 2-3 mm.


The fastening of the siding panel to the lower part of the frame of the window opening is carried out using the so-called. "petals" applied with a punch.

Attaching the siding panel to the top of the window and door frames follows the same principles.


If it is necessary to install siding panels between closely spaced vertical accessories (for example, between two window openings or between a corner of a house and a doorway), the siding panel must be folded and inserted into the mounting recesses of the accessories.

To install horizontal siding on a roof gable, you need to prepare templates that follow the angle of the roof slope.

To do this, take two pieces of the panel. Install one segment on the wall sheathing, and the second parallel to the cornice overhang.

On the first piece of the panel, draw a line using the second piece as a ruler.

Cut the marked panel along the line. It is she who will be the template for all other panels.

In the case of roof finishing where the angle of inclination changes (for example, a mansard sloping roof), it is necessary to make a set of templates for each corner of the template.

In the future, the length of the panels installed using templates is adjusted each time depending on the width of the gable.

Be sure to leave a compression-expansion gap between the siding panel and the bottom of the mounting recess of the receiving accessory.

The installation of the last panel (under the roof ridge) is carried out through it work surface. This is the only place where fasteners can be installed in this way.

If a horizontal siding panel needs to be replaced, insert the curved end of the tool under the edge of the panel and grab the back edge of the lock with it. To open the lock, pull down and move the tool along the panel. The same procedure, but in the opposite direction, is carried out to re-fix the panel.

Installation of siding on walls adjacent to the roof


If you use roofing iron in your construction as a waterproofing, when installing the receiving profile, move it 2-2.5 cm away from the tin sheets heated in the sun.

Note:

  • When used as a finish roofing steel uncoated, reflective sun rays on the siding panel, which can lead to its heating over 55-60°C.
  • At Stroymet you can also buy modern roofing materials Russian and European manufacturers -,.

In this case, it is best to mount the siding without an overlap, using whole panels. If overlap cannot be dispensed with, it must be done “from the roof”. In this case, the snow will slide without clogging the gap.

For an unprepared person, a variety of materials for exterior finish available on modern market, may cause some confusion.

Such advantages often become decisive factors when choosing siding for house cladding. The only issue is the installation technology, which should be discussed in more detail.

If there is no experience finishing works, best solution siding becomes, which has a number of advantages over other types of finishes:

  • There is no need for "wet" work (plastering, etc.).
  • Restrictions due to weather or temperature conditions set by the employee himself according to his own feelings.
  • To install the material does not require any special skills, ease of installation provides an opportunity self-plating Houses.
  • The result of the work looks very impressive and lasts a very long time.

This article is step by step instructions on mounting for teapots.

Siding is a sheathing material used for exterior decoration of buildings. It has the shape of oblong narrow strips with a longitudinal relief applied to them, imitating various options wooden construction (most often) or, less often, masonry.

Strips (panels, lamellas) are equipped with special sides for fastening to a support on one side and for connecting to each other - on the other. The design allows you to collect canvases of any size from them.

Siding is assembled on site, which is convenient and practical. The panels are light in weight, so it is easy to lift and carry them. In principle, it is possible to work alone, but for large areas with long panels, an assistant is needed.

The birthplace of siding is Canada, where it was first produced.

The first samples were wooden, today there are different types material:

  • (PVC, acrylic, etc.)

The most common plastic (PVC) and metal types siding with the best performance or the most successful combination of quality and price.

In addition, there are many profile options:

  • Timberblock.
  • etc.

Mounting direction:

  • Horizontal.
  • siding.

Some types allow installation in both directions at the request of the owner.

Developers are constantly adding the lineup, so there can be no exhaustive list, the list always remains open.

Siding kit

In addition to panels capable of forming only planes, additional elements (additions) are produced that serve to decorate the joints of different canvases at an angle or in the same plane, for finishing window or door openings, etc.

TO standard types can be attributed:

  • Simple and complex angle (external and internal).
  • H-profile.
  • J-bar.
  • Starting bar.
  • Finish plank.
  • Platband.
  • Soffit.
  • Circumferential profile.

All additional elements are fully consistent with the main panels in terms of material type, color or type of protective coating.

Attention! Sometimes, as a decoration, extensions of a different, contrasting color are used, which gives the sheathing an elegant and original look.

The choice of crates - which is better, wood or metal?

Lathing is a system of planks arranged in a certain order perpendicular to the direction of the panels and serving as a support for them. As a material for the crate, it is customary to use wooden blocks or metal drywall guides.

Disputes about that have been heard from the very first days of using the skin. wooden planks have low thermal conductivity, while metal ones conduct heat very well and need to be insulated.

At the same time, wooden parts have a common disease - they are subject to warping, deformation during shrinkage and decay. The metal profile does not create such problems; it is protected from corrosion by a layer of galvanizing.

Another problem with wooden bars is curvature. Picking a perfectly straight piece from a stack of timber is a difficult task, as wood is highly susceptible to warping or screwing. The metal profile is almost perfectly straight.

Thus, a metal profile seems to be a better option for creating a crate, but the cavity formed by it should be taken into account and filled in parallel with the installation of insulation.

Installation of the selected crate

Installation of the crate begins with the installation of extreme strips (if you plan to install vertical siding, then the upper and lower ones). They are attached to the wall in the corners, the position is checked by a plumb line. Then a cord is pulled between the extreme strips (at least two), which serves to check the position of the intermediate strips of the crate and ensure the plane.

Intermediate strips are installed with a step that allows you to tightly lay insulation boards between them. To ensure a plane, pieces of wood, plywood, etc. should be placed under them in the right places.(for wooden purlins) or adjust the height metal profile above the plane of the wall when using a direct (U-shaped) drywall hanger.

After installing the first layer of planks and carrying out intermediate operations, a counter-lattice is installed, which will directly serve as a support for the siding. It is installed perpendicular to the planks of the first layer (and, accordingly, to the siding panels), with a step that provides optimal fastening of the sheathing (40-60 cm, in some cases - 30-40 cm).

The control grill performs additional function providing a ventilation gap between the casing and the wall cake, which ensures the removal of steam a.

NOTE!

If it is not planned to install an external insulation, then it is mounted immediately carrier layer battens (perpendicular to siding panels).

Warming and waterproofing

During the installation of the crate, external wall insulation can be performed. As a heater, a material with a vapor permeability higher than that of the wall material is selected.. This moment is very important, otherwise water (condensate) will accumulate on the border of the two materials, which will sooner or later cause the destruction of the wall.

Therefore, the most preferred insulation will be slab mineral wool, which freely passes water vapor. To cut off the ingress of moisture from the outside, a layer of hydroprotection should be installed.. This is done at the stage of finishing the installation of the first layer of the crate and insulation.

A layer of a waterproof membrane is installed on top, a material that facilitates the removal of steam, but prevents the ingress of moisture from the outside. The counter-lattice is installed on top of the waterproofing layer.


Installation of the starting bar (J profiles)

The starting bar is the support for the bottom row of siding panels. To install it, you need to draw a horizontal line along the perimeter of the house, which is 40 mm above the intended bottom edge of the panels. Then the starting bar is applied with the upper edge to this line and fixed with self-tapping screws on the crate.

CAREFULLY!

Self-tapping screws should not be tightened tightly; a small gap should be left for the bar to move freely. The self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle of the elongated holes, so that during temperature shifts the part can move and compensate for dimensional changes without deformation of the skin plane. This rule applies to all siding elements.

The next bar is not fastened closely, but at a distance of 6 mm from the previous one to compensate for thermal expansion.

How is siding installed?

Siding panel start up bottom edge into the lock of the starting bar, snaps into it, and the upper edge is fixed with self-tapping screws on the crate. The following panels are attached in a similar way, the sheathing "grows" from the bottom up (or sideways if a vertical siding type is chosen).

Attention! In some cases, top-down installation is used. It is believed that this option is less successful due to the possibility of rainwater penetrating into the lining space, but in practice no problems have been found.

Installation of internal corner strips

The installation of the corners is carried out before the installation of the main panels, immediately after fixing the starting bar. The inner corner profile is fastened with the lower edge at the level of the starting bar, the density of the self-tapping screws is recommended to be 25-30 cm.

If the starting bar prevents you from positioning the profile on right place, from the corner profile, cut the nail strips to a length equal to the width of the starting profile plus the expansion gap.

If necessary, increase the corner strip, cut off the top nail strips by 30 mm and overlap the top one over the bottom one for proper water flow. The overlap is not more than 25 mm, so that the temperature gap is observed.

You can make a corner connection using a J-strip, which is cheaper than a corner one. This can be done with one plank, when it is tightly adjacent to the outer edge of the row of panels on one side, and the panels on the second side are installed in it.

The second option is to use two planks on each side of the corner, while there is a danger of water penetrating into the gap between the planks, since the absolute tightness of the connection cannot be achieved here, in addition, temperature gaps are necessary in any case.

Installation of external corner strips

External corner strips are installed in a similar way, adjusted for the element's reverse geometry. The same method of overlapping, temperature gaps are required, etc. As a replacement for a complex corner, you can use two J-bars located at the corners close to each other.

For outside corners, a simpler design is possible - with a simple corner that is installed on top of the panels. In this case, the siding is installed first without a corner, so that the junction of the planes is the most accurate, after which a simple corner is screwed on top. Often this option is the most preferable, because it is simpler and for unprepared people, this option seems to be optimal.

How to lengthen siding strips

If it is necessary to end-join the panels, an H-profile or a simple overlap joint can be used. The size of the overlap is 25 cm, for its implementation it is necessary to cut off the nail strip from the top and part of the lock from the bottom from one panel to the length of the overlap and plus a temperature gap of 12 mm. Overlapping is best done at random - in each row of panels on different places so as not to weaken the entire canvas.

H-profile installation

Installation of the H-profile is carried out simultaneously with the installation corner strips(immediately after the start line). The same rules apply as for corner profiles - trimming nail strips for joints and mandatory temperature gaps. The use of the H-profile makes the longitudinal joining of panels more aesthetic, allows you to immediately cut to length right amount panels for this area.

Installation of ordinary siding panels

It starts immediately after the installation of the starting strip and the corner and H-profiles. Siding can be cut directly into desired length, not forgetting the need to leave temperature gaps, which for panels are 12 mm.

The starting bar has a lock, the same as the panels. The first lower strip is inserted into it until it is completely connected and fastened along the upper nail strip with self-tapping screws.

The usual rules for siding apply - the self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle of the oblong hole and loosely fixes the part, leaving room for free play. The next panel is attached in the same way. By itself, the process of creating a plane is simple and does not require special knowledge, except for those indicated.

Every 3 rows, a horizontal check is made and measures are taken to eliminate distortions if they are found.

Loose connections or other causes may interfere with correct position panels, causing slight distortion. If you do not make constant control, then by the end of the installation, the changes may become noticeable and the whole work will be spoiled. Therefore, periodic monitoring and correction of the accuracy of the location of the lamellas to the horizontal is necessary.

How to siding around windows and doorways

They are made in almost the same ways, the only difference is the presence of rain tides on window openings. The method of tying the opening depends on the depth of planting the block in the plane of the wall.

For the design of openings that are in the same plane with the wall, platbands are used. They have grooves for the end placement of the siding, so the installation of the trim is done before installing the main panels.

If the openings have a depth of up to 20 cm, then a J-bar is used. Its installation is made on top of the finished panels, on window frame around the perimeter it is necessary to fix the finishing bar.

For large depths of openings, sets of the same siding panels are used, cut off taking into account the temperature gap along the length of the slope and recruited according to the usual principle. A universal bar is installed along the perimeter of the window block, and on external joint The planes are mounted at a complex angle. In this case, it is also necessary to install extensions before mounting the main panels.

To finish the slopes on them, it is necessary to first install the crate, which is usually done during the construction of the main one, since the openings need to be insulated along with the plane of the walls. Regardless of the angle of the slope, the lathing of the openings is set perpendicular to the main one, and the angle is provided by the position of the finishing or universal strips.

Siding finish strip

The finishing bar forms the upper (final) edge of the last panel and fixes its position. installation is carried out almost simultaneously with the top panel. The plank is fastened strictly horizontally at the desired height, the nail plank on the last panel is cut off.

The panel with a cut edge, on which the locking profile remains, is inserted into the slot of the finishing bar and snaps into it. The shape of the profiles is such that the size of the required gap is observed, the lock securely fixes the panel in the plane of the leaf.

NOTE!

For correct installation the finishing strip and the last panel require an exact calculation made in advance, or the possibility of some level discrepancy if a separate pediment sheathing is planned.

Gable siding installation

Either in the same way as the facade, or using a vertical arrangement of siding panels in contrast to the main canvas. It will require a fairly accurate trim in length and at an angle.

A feature of the design is the need to provide a temperature gap in combination with trimming panels at an angle, at which errors are possible, so careful measurements will be required. It is recommended to start the installation from the back sides of the house, so that before moving to the front side there is some experience.

Useful video

In this video you will learn how to install siding:

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself siding installation is a simple and quite affordable procedure that you can do yourself. The main condition is the looseness of fastening parts and compliance with temperature gaps, all other subtleties are comprehended intuitively along the way. To successfully complete the work, you should abandon the haste and act deliberately, then the result will become the pride of the owner of the house.

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