Gas boiler protherm errors. Error codes and malfunctions of gas boilers Proterm Panther. ⚫ Malfunction of the outside temperature sensor

Malfunction of the Proterm Gepard boiler, worked for 2 years. Something clicked, blinked and the liquid crystal display went out. Doesn't respond to any buttons, including RESET. What could it be? The boiler is switched on through a stabilizer.

The control board is damaged. Power supply problem. I think the device has nothing to do with it. Most stabilizers (especially cheap ones) do not protect against voltage surges.

The Panther wall-mounted boiler is faulty, in Lately goes into error F28. Only the reset button helps. Then it works for a while and again F28, and turning off the power cannot be fixed, only by pressing the reset key. I disassembled the gas valve, cleaned it, lubricated it, but it didn’t help. Who can tell me what? The house is old, the wiring is two-wire, without grounding. Before this it worked for several years without any complaints. Last year, there were problems with
ignition, cleaned the gas valve, lubricated the electric. engine.

The problem is not with the valve, but with the ionization circuit (flame presence sensor). Problem with the first ignition. Remove the panel and look for an error when trying to ignite the boiler. Or call service. Maybe the valve is stuck, maybe the board. This mistake can only be made by specialists. Error F28 was corrected by removing the burner, cleaning the electrodes and removing them from the ramp. It helped in half the cases.

I carry out repairs myself gas boiler Proterm Lynx. I took off the cover, cleaned the combustion chamber, wiped the electrodes, I don’t know how to clean them, so I limited myself to this. I can’t say that there was a lot of garbage and soot there. It seems to me that the camera was almost clean, slightly dusty. The voltage dropped to 0.7V. The boiler is working properly, during this time there has not been a single shutdown.

In any case, the grounding problem needs to be solved.

Leopard wall-mounted boiler in operation. At some point it showed error f1. Today a specialist came and fixed it. The device started working, water appeared and the batteries began to heat up. Now I noticed that there is hot water, but the radiators are cold. The temperature is set to 60, but on the screen it jumps from 80 to 90. Through the reset, on. and off did not help. What kind of malfunction is this?

A Proterm Jaguar gas boiler has been installed. When communicating with specialists, it turned out that adjusting the temperature in the house by reducing the coolant flow is not good. Moreover, for a device where the return temperature is controlled and, with a clamped flow, it may not reach full capacity at all. That is, it is good if the coolant temperature decreases/increases and the flow rate is greater than the other way around: the temperature is higher and the flow rate decreases. Therefore, I decided to abandon thermal heads. I assume that the heating system will work better and more economically if I install or room thermostat Thermolink P or weather-compensated outdoor temperature sensor. Comfort and savings from a thermostat are possible by programming the temperature in the house depending on your lifestyle. A weather-compensated sensor will give you more
comfort rather than economy, since it will increase or decrease the temperature of the coolant in advance depending on the change in temperature outside, and not when it has already become cold or hot in the house. Therefore, at this stage I plan to add only the Thermolink R room thermostat to the heating system. Now the question is - where is the best place to place it?

In your case, controlling the boiler using the room thermostat will not be correct. I advise you to install an outdoor thermostat on the boiler and set the boiler to operate according to the heating curve depending on outside temperature. Warm floors are controlled by the controller you designate according to your heating curve depending on the outside temperature. Excess heat from radiators is cut off with thermal heads built into them. This will be the most
an acceptable option for your scheme. Regarding the variable flow in the consumer circuit. For this case, the boiler has a bypass, which is responsible for constant flow through the boiler when the flow through the circuits changes. The bypass changes the degree of its opening depending on the deterioration of the flow through the heating system, and not when the flow through the heat exchanger deteriorates. The flow through the heat exchanger will remain the same, or slightly lower
(influenced by the resistance of the bypass channel itself). This just keeps it from boiling. What else should we protect the boiler from? It doesn’t know about the heating system, it knows the supply temperature set to it and knows the flow and return temperatures, using them it determines what to do and how to modulate the flame with a gas valve.

We completed the installation, installation and connection of the Gepard 23 boiler. We set the temperature to 60, it gains 65, then slowly drops to 50. The batteries cool down during this time. The service technician said that the device would not work any other way. Is it possible to make sure that the boiler constantly maintains the same temperature, say plus or minus 2 degrees?

Switch to comfort mode, most likely the economy mode is set. You can also reduce the boiler power, burner blocking time and pump run-on in the menu.

A Protherm Panther 30 double-circuit turbocharged boiler is in operation. I bought a Protherm Termolink P programmer for it a long time ago, but did not install it because there were tests in the house. construction works. It's time to connect the programmer, but I couldn't find any information about connecting this particular programmer. Everywhere it says how to connect the Termolink S to the boiler, to the place in the terminal block where the wire bridge is made (i.e., we take out the bridge and insert the wires from the programmer). I tried to do this, but there was no reaction from the programmer; it did not turn on. Where should I connect the wires from the Termolink P programmer? There, next to the “bridge”, there are also EBUS+ and EBUS-, maybe this is the connection point (but why is the polarity indicated)?

In RT 24V we set the jumper (1 and 2 contacts), in 3 and 4 we screw the wires from Thermolink P, the polarity does not matter.

The Proterm Leopard wall-mounted boiler began to clap when ignited and the gas valve began to click loudly. What could be wrong? Maybe I need to call a technician? The boiler start-up pressure was adjusted in September. The clapping started with severe frosts. I checked the pipe and there is no ice inside.

The new Jaguar 24 jtv boiler does not want to start. The pump and fan turn on, the ignition electrodes are activated and the burner lights up for half a second. Then the flame goes out, the pump and fan continue to work and after some time the process repeats again. In this case, the boiler does not display an error. Has anyone encountered such a breakdown? Exit exhaust gases temporarily connected to the flue from the old appliance, air intake comes from
premises. I have the impression that the ionization electrode does not see the flame. But why then doesn’t it give an error?

In my case, the chimney was made incorrectly, and the exhaust gases were sucked back into the burner. The problem may be a faulty ground loop.

Gas boiler in operation Protherm Cheetah 23, installed it last spring. Only used it in summer hot water, the heating system was not filled. For the winter, I turned off the apparatus and water supply, and drained water from the boiler by opening a hot water tap. Now I tried to start the boiler, but it shows no pressure in the system. I start to turn the relief valve (blue bottom right), and water flows in a stream from under the plate heat exchanger. I removed the heat exchanger and it is intact. It feels like the gaskets are not holding, although they look intact. What could be the reason?

See the hydraulic unit next to it. Perhaps there is a crack in it.

I came across this problem. There is a new Prtotherm Lynx boiler (installation in a new building). A pump is installed in the DHW circuit, which circulates water so as not to wait until it heats up and reaches the bathroom. If you turn on this pump, the boiler does not heat the second circuit (radiators, heated floor). When you turn it off, it immediately starts heating up. Has anyone encountered a similar problem? What could be the reason?

This is called hot water heating priority. When there is water flow through the flow sensor, the DHW heating works and the heating circuit does not work. You need to remove the pump.

How to combine the wall-mounted boiler Proterm Panther 25 KTO and the B200Z boiler? Are any required additional sensors for the boiler or can it be determined by the return? If required, which one? The device was converted to propane, and the valve was adjusted using a homemade u-pressure gauge. Now the question is about the hot water supply.

When working with an NTS sensor, the boiler constantly monitors the temperature in the boiler. Upon reaching certain temperature it begins to modulate the burner to prevent clocking, and with a mechanical sensor the boiler heats the boiler until the thermostat turns it off or goes into overheating and clocking is possible.

The Leopard 24 BTV/BOV boiler was put into operation. I set the pressure to 1.1, the temperature is set to 65. It turns on at 53, turns off at 68. During this time the pressure rises to 1.9. Then it drops to 1.1 It looks like the pressure is jumping.

Pump the compensator (Expansion tank) to 0.8-0.9 atm. air when water is drained from the boiler.

There is a problem with the protherm Jaguar 24 boiler. It has been in operation for 3 months, it operates for heating in economy mode. A problem has arisen: when the temperature drops to the point when the device should turn on, it does not turn on. The turbine operates, ignition occurs, the flame lights up for 2-5 seconds and goes out. 1 minute passes, he tries to light the flame again and goes out again. It doesn't give any errors. After a few hours, ignition still occurs and again
it works fine for a while. What could be the reason for this behavior of the device?

Check phase zero, the boiler has polarity, and make a ground to the boiler. Install the stabilizer. Also try cleaning the ignition and ionization electrodes.

Malfunction of the Protherm Leopard 24BTV17 boiler. For maintenance and repair gas equipment I decided to call specialists. It all started with a heat exchanger clogged with scale. They came and took it off. Cleaned the heat exchanger with hydrochloric acid. They did it poorly, because... After 2 days, water almost stopped flowing into the hot water supply again. I called again, but this time they did not flush the heat exchanger, but simply tightened the gas pressure regulator. The DHW sensor started to work and they left. The F1 error was triggered several times. But after a couple of days, the water in the hot water supply stopped flowing altogether. I removed the heat exchanger myself and checked it. Neither water nor air passed through the hot water pipes. Washed citric acid for 8 hours, then neutralized with a solution baking soda. Water flows well. But, the F1 error appears several times a day. It occurs periodically when the burner is ignited:
First, the first clicks are triggered, the flame lights up with a weak fire, then less audible clicks are triggered over a longer period of time. The flame goes out and error F1 comes on. How can this be fixed? At night we have to check and restart the boiler. I don’t want to let these service technicians near the boiler anymore. Maybe I need to reset the gas regulator?

I did some maintenance on my Jaguar boiler, which was heating on full power due to the fact that the boiler was still heating, although it was only in heating mode. IN service center They said that the boiler temperature sensor for the new line of boilers is now different (Vailant) and the old ones that worked with boilers of previous models are no longer suitable. I unhooked the sensor, the boiler stopped heating at full power. The pipe for the indirect heating boiler is now cold. Today they brought a new sensor, but have not tested it yet. And one more thing: I set the desired temperature, for example 50 degrees, the boiler heats up the temperature to 55 degrees and turns off. Then, judging by the display, the temperature can drop to 25 degrees. Then the device turns on again and warms up to 50-55 degrees in a maximum of 2 minutes and turns off again. Temperature at warm floors costs about 35 degrees. Is this normal at all?

This is fine. The coolant manages to cool down during the “blocking of the heating request” time (adjustable from 2 to 60 minutes and also depends on the set supply temperature). If it turns on again and warms up the temperature, this is already bad. Either the boiler power is too high or the coolant circulation is difficult.

The Proterm Lynx gas boiler is in operation, calibrated. It has been working for about three years. A few months ago a breakdown appeared - the burner did not ignite the first time, even with hot water or heating. It looks something like this: I open hot water, the boiler starts. Ignition occurs and the burner immediately goes out. In this case, the boiler continues to operate as usual, the turbine and pump are working, the DHW indicator is blinking, the indicator
the flame goes out, but the gas supply, judging by the meter, continues. If you turn off the water and wait until the turbine stops, the next start usually goes well. If you do not turn off the water, then the boiler will re-ignite the burner after a while and work normally. In all this, it does not show any errors. The voltage is normal (there is a stabilizer, according to the multimeter 225 volts), there is grounding, I tried changing the phasing. When a problem arose, I opened the combustion chamber, everything was clean there.

Do Protherm Gepard single-circuit boilers have a function for continuous operation of the circulation pump (regardless of heating or standby)?

When the gas on the burner is burning, the pump is always running. The question is how long does the pump run after reaching RH? desired temperature and turning off the gas supply (heating agent) to the burner. The pump should not stop immediately, otherwise, due to the thermal inertia of the copper heat exchanger, the boiler may overheat at high ambient temperatures, which is why all boilers have a pump post-circulation mode. Consider the Panther and
Cheetah version 19. You can make the pump work constantly by changing the settings. These boilers have parameter d.01 (Heating pump run-on). Range from 2 to 60 min. Well, consider that if you set it to 60 minutes, it turns out that the pump will work constantly. because the burner will turn on 100% before this pump run-down time has passed. Even at the minimum set temperature, i.e. even at the beginning and end heating season. And the post-rundown countdown begins each time after reaching the specified set temperature and the burner goes out again. There is also parameter d.18 (Pump operating mode). There are three settings: 0, 1 and 2. If you select setting 2 and if your device is in the “Winter” mode, the pump will work continuously without stopping. If the setting is 0, then the pump runs while the burner is on plus the selected post-circulation time. Here are two ways to set the pump to constant operation. Of course, the second method is more rational. The pump just keeps running.

We installed and connected the Panther 25 kTV boiler. The first winter everything was fine, the boiler worked for heating and turned off for rest. This winter, when the external pump is turned off, the boiler works the same, but if you turn on the circulation pump, the boiler works constantly, it can work for a day or two, but does not turn off. The return is warm, as expected. Warm floors and radiators on the second floor. What's happened? I don’t like that the device works constantly, doesn’t turn off during breaks and consumes more gas.

It is not recommended to install two pumps in one line, unless through a hydraulic arrow. Over time, the boiler pump will fail, unless the parameters of the pumps are the same, otherwise one will overpower the other. It doesn't turn off for me either. The system contains 150 liters of water (an old pipe system without registers), which also works at a minimum. This is better for the boiler than clocking. The logic of boilers is to heat the coolant faster. Let's say the setting is 55. It heats up to 50 quickly and 5 degrees at minimum, and these 5 degrees are very difficult to heat up at minimum. Therefore, it turns out that it works constantly. You can raise the minimum wage, but in my case this will lead to overheating due to hot water.

Malfunction wall-mounted boiler Proterm Cheetah. The heating was turned on. We installed a room thermostat. We only come to the house on weekends. What is the best boiler temperature to set? If we set it to 50, then it takes longer to heat up to a certain temperature and stays in working condition longer. If we set it to 60, then it heats up faster, but also turns on less often. Which optimal temperature set the boiler so that there is
saving gas and was not to the detriment of the device.

The system has a wall-mounted Protherm pantera 30 ktv. Drips from the three-way valve. The pressure in the system drops, the boiler shuts down. By feeding we bring the pressure to 1.2 atmospheres - it starts working. Is it necessary to replace the valve or can I simply disassemble, clean, and reassemble it myself?

I heard that Proterm Panther 25 KTO is the only flow-through boiler with the ability to circulate water. The benefits of the COMFORT function when connecting DHW circulation can be improved by simply adding a circulation pump to the circulation pipe (no need for an additional 3-way valve, sensor and tank). Therefore, the boiler serves as a source of instant DHW supply, continuously maintaining hot water in the circulation circuit at a temperature of 400 C. Hot water flows instantly even when a distant DHW tap is opened (up to 20 meters from the boiler). Did you mean connecting to the BKN circuit, for example, through a heated towel rail, or does this model have its own connection diagram (simply adding a central heating unit)? I'm going to buy and install this BKN Gorenje device.

That's right.

A Gepard 23 mov boiler was installed and has been in operation for one year. At the beginning of the work there were no questions. After six months, when heating is started, when the temperature rises from 60 to 70 degrees, such a loud noise appears in the boiler, as if it is boiling small amount water in the kettle. The noise lasts literally 20 seconds, and as long as the heating is on, everything is fine. I have my thermostat set up. The boiler worked, turned off and again
When the heating starts, noise starts, as described above. What need to do? The service center said that the heat exchangers are not cleaned. I think that's the issue.

If the heat exchanger is clogged, then there will be problems when the boiler is operating for hot water. This also happens when the step-by-step gas valve is set incorrectly. It is configured from the installer menu; in any case, competent specialists are needed.

The house warmed up, gas consumption dropped to 0.5 cubic meters per hour. (is this normal consumption?) The fan began to work without any extraneous noise. The boiler, I must say, works very quietly, which came as a surprise. The boiler operates through a convector. I bought batteries for the convector. And now, quite by accident, I saw that the boiler is not afraid of a power outage, because after the power supply is restored, it turns on itself and continues to work as before the outage. Neither during purchase, nor during installation, nor in the instructions was anything mentioned about this. I checked the air in the batteries, as expected, there is no air in the system. But here’s the question: the battery next to the boiler warms up better than the other 6 in the rooms. The batteries heat up evenly, but if you hold the pipe at the inlet and outlet of the battery, you can feel the difference in temperature. This is fine? After stopping the device, the supply pipe and return pipe very quickly become the same temperature. And so on until the boiler is turned on. Now in all rooms the temperature is 22 degrees, the boiler is set to 50. If the temperature outside drops, you will have to increase the temperature on the boiler manually. I wanted to know whether weather-compensated automation or a room programmer is better? What else do you recommend? Do you still need to call specialists to adjust the minimum gas pressure or not?

There is no need to configure anything on your device. I adjust when the water flow is very weak. I just lower the minimum setting (provided the flow sensor is clean).

If you encounter problems when operating a gas boiler, a self-diagnosis system will help you. The built-in controller detects problems in the operation of equipment components and displays an error code for the Proterm Cheetah boiler on the display. Decoding the code indicates where to look for a fault and how to repair the device yourself.

Design of Protherm Gepard equipment

The series is represented by dual-circuit and single-circuit boilers. The first ones service hot water supply (DHW) and heating systems. Equipped with a built-in water heater from 30 to 60 liters. Wall-mounted units are suitable for apartments and private houses.

Single-circuit units "" include boilers indirect heating. The combustion chambers in both designs can be open or closed. If you have a chimney shaft, choose a model with an atmospheric burner that takes air from the room. If the building does not have a chimney, a turbocharged burner with gas exhaust through a coaxial chimney is suitable.

Error codes

If you did not find answers to your questions in your instructions, we have listed all the malfunctions of Protherm Gepard boilers in the table. You will learn how to carry out repairs yourself.

Error F01 (F10/F11)- Malfunction of the temperature sensor heating system.

This situation means that the temperature sensor of the heating system is damaged or the permissible temperature is too high.

The temperature sensor circuit in the heating circuit is damaged - This malfunction can occur if the connection between the temperature sensor and the control board is broken, or the temperature is below the nominal value.

Five seconds after the failure is detected, the Protherm Panther gas boiler will resume operating functions if the problem occurred accidentally. You need to check that there is no moisture on the sensor connector and the control board connector. If there is no moisture, you need to change the temperature sensor.

Short circuit of the heating circuit temperature sensor - This problem can occur when the contacts of the temperature sensor are short-circuited or the coolant temperature value is higher than recommended. First you need to measure the sensor resistance.

If the resistance parameters differ from the standard ones, it is necessary to replace the temperature sensor. If installing a new sensor does not produce results, repair the board.

Error F12/F13- The temperature sensor for hot water supply does not work correctly.

This code indicates that the temperature sensor in the DHW circuit is damaged or the permissible temperature has risen.

The main factors contributing to the occurrence of this problem: the hot water temperature sensor is broken. No contact between electronic board and a DHW temperature sensor. The control board has failed.

When temperature sensor hot water supply is operational and is in reliable contact with the electronic control board, but when the device detects an error, then, apparently, the control board is damaged.

Error F20- The Proterm Panther boiler is overheated. The device is blocked.

The overheating safety thermostat is triggered - The temperature sensor and overheating thermostat are in most cases located on the outlet pipe of the primary heat exchanger. The main goal The thermostat is designed to protect the appliance from excessive temperature increases. A malfunction may appear due to problems in the thermostat, temperature sensor, or if the main circulation circuit is malfunctioning.

The temperature sensor is faulty - The electronic board receives an incorrect signal or there is a broken contact between the electronic board and the sensor.

The overheating thermostat has failed - If it is working properly, but there is actual overheating of the coolant, then there may be a disruption in the circulation of the coolant in the heating circuit. The main heat exchanger or the main circuit filter is clogged (a low level of circulation causes an increased heating temperature of the liquid).

Error code F22- Means that the pressure inside the system is reduced.

Possible reasons why this malfunction appears: a decrease in water pressure in the heating system. Lack of contact between the pressure switch and the control board. Failure of the minimum pressure switch.

First of all, you must find out the pressure gauge readings. Most often, the problem can be eliminated using a make-up tap, which is designed to fill the heating system with liquid.

When the failure occurs again, there may be a fluid leak. The hydraulic pump, main heat exchanger, excess pressure relief valve, worn gaskets, make-up valve and other parts may be leaking. Leaks can be identified by inspecting hydraulic components and connections.

Code F24- The circulation pump is malfunctioning or there is an air lock in the heating system.

Error code F25- No traction.

For reliable and safe work gas unit, a draft must be created to remove exhaust gases so that they do not enter the living quarters. The exhaust of gases is controlled electronically, and if any problems arise, the traction sensor-relay will turn on and the device will stop working.

The main sources of lack of draft: insufficient diameter of the smoke exhaust duct, incorrect design, clogging, icing of the inner wall. Limiting the size of the outlet channel entails a lack of traction.

Excess maximum length chimney pipe It is necessary to carefully study the boiler installation instructions and check compliance with the mandatory requirements. A large length of the horizontal section of the chimney pipe can lead to a lack of necessary draft.

Failure of the traction sensor - When a vacuum is created in the supply tube, a weak click will be noticeable. There is no contact between the electronic board and the pressure switch-traction sensor, the presence of condensation, as well as incorrect connection of the tubes to the sensor-pneumatic relay.

There are problems with the fan operation - There is a blockage in the fan impeller. The fan shaft is not lubricated, and therefore it cannot develop the required speed. Lost contact between the fan and the board that controls the electronics.

Error code F28- Indicates that the ignition is not working. The fault signal comes from the flame control sensor. This part takes into account the presence of a flame and stops the functioning of the Protherm Panther wall-mounted boiler during incomplete combustion of the main burner or in the event of a gas supply failure.

The operation stops after three unsuccessful starts. To restore functions, you must hold down the Reset button.

Gas valve problem - The gas valve is controlled by an electronic board. This component is checked by determining the resistance and voltage. If it is determined that the values ​​differ from the standard parameters, the valve should be replaced with a functional one.

There is no gas flow into the unit - A valve is placed in the gas distribution circuit that closes the flow gas fuel. Therefore, a malfunction when the unit is turned on may occur due to a closed valve.

Incorrect contact or no signal from the ionization flame sensor.

The electronic board is damaged - When the ignition process proceeds correctly, but the boiler suddenly goes out, then most likely the control board does not recognize the flame. In this case, you need to check it.

Error F29- Problem with ignition.

This circumstance occurs if the ignition mechanism does not work or flame separation is observed.

It is necessary to check the connections between the ignition mechanism and the flame sensor, and also between the board and the gas valve. One of the factors in the attenuation of the burner flame may be weak draft.

I have a wall-mounted boiler Panther 25 KTO installed. Lately, the ignition error F28 has been showing up almost constantly. After resetting with the reset button, the device periodically turns on satisfactorily, but this happens sporadically. I removed the air plug a few days ago and it works much better. What's wrong?

When a traction error is displayed, be sure to open the safety covers. This will help draw air out of the room. After this, check the chimney pipe for the presence of ice and, if necessary, clean it. In the event of a combustion emergency, it is recommended to check whether gas is supplied to the room.

The boiler regularly shows error F10. Can't figure out what it signals?

This code indicates that the heating system temperature sensor is damaged. It probably needs to be replaced.

Why did the double-circuit gas boiler Protherm Panther 30 KTV not turn on? At the same time, it often shows error F20. What to do?

This malfunction can occur due to various problems with the thermostat, temperature sensor, and also due to disturbances in the operation of the main circulation circuit. Most likely, there is overheating of the liquid in the heat exchanger. If the temperature sensor and thermostat are OK, then the problem is in the control board. You must replace it.

Why is the device unable to start and showing error F22? The pressure is normal and there are no leaks observed. I try to turn off the power, but the problem does not go away. What is the cause of the problem?

This situation often occurs when the coolant pressure in the heating system decreases. In such a situation, it is necessary to check the pressure switch. Obviously this is where the problem lies.

The problem with the unit is as follows: the hot water supply is turned on at forty-five degrees. When you open the hot water tap, the burner device starts to burn and goes out almost immediately. This cycle happens all the time. Warm water flows from the mixer, but not hot, then cold. Error F20 appears repeatedly. For what reason did this happen?

This circumstance is a sign of overheating of the hot water coolant. It looks like the heat exchanger is very dirty, or the thermostat is not adjusted correctly.

We have the following problem. When igniting, the device displays error F29 (flame failure). If you restart it, it turns on, but as soon as the burner lights up, several clicks are heard, and after that an error is displayed. I replaced the ionization electrode, washed the flow sensor, removed the ground from the plug, but no result. Has anyone encountered this?

This problem occurs for three reasons. The flame control electrode has failed. Difficulties with gas supply. The electronics board is damaged.

The unit stopped working on its own and shows code F22. What to do?

Low water level in the device or damage to the pressure switch. First fill the system with water.

The gas appliance switches off with error message F25. Blowing and cleaning doesn't help. What should I do?

This situation indicates weak draft, and it is necessary to check the chimney duct. It is likely that the membrane is sticking. In another case, we advise you to contact specialists for a detailed inspection of the unit and further inspection.

The home operates a Proterm Panther 25 KTV gas boiler. Error F12 began to appear. The device itself works, the water temperature level is adjusted manually. When they installed it, they probably overheated, because they were starting auto mode temperature adjustment. An outdoor air temperature sensor was not installed. What is the reason?

The DHW temperature sensor may be damaged. Sometimes the electronic board is faulty.

The device performs its functions for approximately a few minutes, after which the burner goes out and error F25 appears. It lights up for no more than a minute, the burner turns on again, and the device performs its functions normally for another three to four minutes, and so on many times. This code, based on the operating manual, indicates that the draft sensor is triggered, although the chimney channel is clean and flue gases are removed well. Can anyone explain what is causing the problem?

In this case, the main reasons contributing to the lack of traction are: malfunction of the traction sensor pneumatic relay. There is no contact between the control board and the traction sensor. Condensation in the tubes, as well as improper connection of the tubes to the pneumatic relay. The fan is damaged. Presumably, he is unable to develop the necessary speed.

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Heating system control. Installation. Connection. Transfer to another type of gas. Adjustment devices and protection devices.

Peculiarities. Installation and installation. Automation components.

Technical specifications. Installation. Adjustment and checking. Maintenance.

Adjustment and protection. Installation and assembly. Pressure setting. Maintenance.

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After starting, a malfunction appeared. It doesn’t want to turn on, it worked for two years, now the whole display lights up, just like when the boiler is turned on, when the self-diagnosis mode is in progress, then it clicks, turns off for miles and seconds and turns on the whole display again. It turned on once, but it gives error E10 water pressure, although the pressure in the system is 1.5 atm. Tell me, what could it be?

We installed and connected the Baxi Fourtech 24 F boiler. What is the pressure? cold water allowed at the entrance to the DHW device?

Bosch 6000 24 kW boiler, single-circuit with built-in three-way valve. The boiler sensor does not see it and gives an error. Tell me how to do it so that it doesn’t give an error and works normally for both the heating and the boiler?

If you turn off the DHW flow sensor, maybe it will be possible to reprogram it into a single-circuit device through menu L3?

We installed an Arderia esr 2.13 ffcd boiler. If my coolant pressure drops slightly by a couple of notches over 2-3 days, could the reason be a faulty three-way valve (there are no leaks from the radiators)?

The gas boiler Arderia 2.35 is in operation. Tell me about reducing power. I heard something about modulation, fan speed, etc. Is it really possible to reduce power?

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We installed and connected the Buderus Logano G234-WS-44 kW boiler, automatic Logomatic 4211. Heating is based on cylinders without hot water, and the jets for reduced gas were also replaced. We survived the winter, the cylinders were replaced, all without problems. Then in the spring, when the outside temperature was +16+18, the boiler began to turn off for a long time and when turned on, it began to display a burner error on the screen and the red button light on the front wall came on. We pressed the button, turned the power back on and everything worked. This happened several times, then the boiler was turned off completely for the summer, what could be the problem?

In the single-circuit Buderus 072, is the BKN coil circuit heated by the same heat exchanger as for heating or the same as on the 2-circuit one that is used for DHW?

Tell me, for Vaillant wall-mounted gas boilers, are there real/actual differences in better side in the new generation turboTEC plus VU/5-5 compared to /3-5?

There is a malfunction in the boiler, the green LED (power) is flashing, the instructions say that the thermal protection has tripped, the green indicator is flashing, even if nothing is connected to the board. How to fix? Checked everything SMD resistors and transistors, everything is fine.

In operation there is a double-circuit gas boiler Daewoo Gasboiler with an electronic panel. When the DHW is turned on, the heating heats up, the operating mode is summer. I removed the three-way valve, there is no dirt or wear. It seems that the board does not control the three-way valve. How to check?

The Electrolux Basic Xi ​​wall-mounted boiler has been installed and connected. A problem began that the boiler stopped seeing the flame and turned off the gas supply after 7-8 seconds. And after 3 attempts it gave error E1. How can I fix it?

Koreastar boiler malfunction. The heating works great hot water It runs intermittently, when you turn on the hot water tap, cold water comes out first, then boiling water. After a few seconds it’s cool, then boiling water again. What could be the problem?

The Ferroli Domiproject 24 boiler is malfunctioning - I set it to 60-70 degrees, it switches to minimum combustion, does not turn on, does not turn off. Restart is unstable. No pattern emerges. What to do?

In operation, a Junkers euroline gas boiler, when hot water is turned on, gas ignites, then goes out, and so on several times. If you turn it on while the heating is running, the water heating starts immediately. Tell me, please, what could be the problem?

Tell me about the adjustments of the gas boiler Navien Ace 16 turbo remote control v1.3. It is not possible to adjust the fan run-on. I set it to 30 seconds, but still 2 minutes. spins.

Malfunction of the Oasis ZRT18 boiler. The unit starts, the gas lights up, then goes out. It lights up again and then goes out (this happens three times). Then it lights up and works fine. It doesn't give any error. What is the reason?

Malfunction of the Senor Duval gas boiler - the water pressure sensor shows 0.0, the indicator flashes red, the hot water does not heat up, but the water pressure in the apartment is good. How to fix the problem?

In which place coaxial chimney should a steam trap be installed? Boiler wh1d c closed camera combustion, located at a distance of 1 m from the wall.

Problem starting the Westen Pulsar D boiler. Piezo ignition works, but there is no flame, error E01 after a crackling sound. I moved the fork around.

The Novella floor-standing gas boiler is blocked - the green lights on the panel are on and nothing else happens. How to fix?

An Ariston gas wall-mounted boiler has been installed and connected, which does not hold pressure at all: while cooling the heated water, the pressure drops to zero, although water is regularly filled. What about the pressure?

Error F1- Indicates that the ignition system is faulty. The ionization flame sensor that monitors ignition reports a problem. This part detects the presence of a flame and interrupts the operation of the gas boiler Protherm Bear during low combustion of the main gas burner device or when gas supply is interrupted.

Blocking occurs after 3 unsuccessful starts. To return to work, you must keep the reset key pressed.

Gas valve malfunction - Gas valve controlled electronically. Diagnostics of this part is carried out by measuring voltage and resistance. If the values ​​are found to be out of specification, it is recommended to replace the valve.

There is no gas supply to the system - A valve is installed in the gas distribution device that shuts off the gas flow. Consequently, a failure when starting the device may occur due to a closed tap.

Weak contact or no pulse from the flame control sensor.

The control board is faulty - If the ignition process is carried out without error, but the device still goes out instantly, then, apparently, the electronics cannot detect the flame. In this case, it needs to be tested.

Error code F2- The heating system temperature sensor is not working correctly.

This circumstance indicates that the temperature sensor of the heating system has broken down or the operating temperature has been exceeded.

Open circuit in temperature sensor heating water- This malfunction occurs when there is no contact between the temperature sensor and the electronics board, or the temperature reading is below normal.

5 seconds after the failure is detected, the Proterm Bear boiler should resume correct operation, if the failure occurred accidentally. You should make sure that there is no moisture on the temperature sensor connector and the electronic board connector. If there is no moisture, you need to change the sensor.

There is a short circuit in the temperature sensor of the heating system - This malfunction occurs when short circuit temperature sensor circuits or the liquid temperature indicator is higher than normal. Initially, it is recommended to measure the resistance of the temperature sensor.

If the resistance characteristics do not meet the required ones, the sensor must be replaced. If installing a working sensor does not bring desired result, replace the control board.

Error code F3- Boiler Bear KLOM is overheated. The device stops.

The overheating safety thermostat has turned on - The overheating thermostat, like the temperature sensor, is mainly located on the outlet pipe of the main heat exchanger. The functional task of the thermostat is to ensure the safety of the boiler unit from excessive temperature increases. An alarm occurs due to problems with the thermostat, temperature sensor, and also due to problems with the main circulation circuit.

Problems with the temperature sensor - The electronic board receives an incorrect signal or poor contact between the sensor and the control board.

The overheating thermostat is faulty - If the component is operational, although actual overheating of the liquid is detected, then most likely there is a problem with the circulation of coolant in the heating circuit. Clogged main heat exchanger or heating circuit filter element (lack of circulation indicates high temperature coolant heating).

The circulation pump has failed or there is an air blockage in the heating system.

Error code F4- Malfunction of the hot water temperature sensor.

This circumstance indicates a failure of the temperature sensor of the DHW circuit or the required temperature has increased significantly.

Possible reasons that influence the formation of this problem: the hot water temperature sensor is damaged. There is no contact between the control board and the DHW temperature sensor. Damage to the electronic board.

If the DHW temperature sensor is in good condition and firmly connected to the electronic board, although at this moment the boiler displays an error, then the electronic control board is probably not working.

Error code F28- Problems related to ignition.

This is displayed when the ignition does not work or the burner flame fails.

Error F36- Lack of traction.

In order to ensure correct and uninterrupted operation of the boiler, it is necessary to organize a draft to remove flue gases to prevent them from entering the room. The exhaust of gases is controlled automatically, and if certain problems occur, the draft sensor turns on and the boiler stops working.

The main factors due to which there is no traction: the small size of the outlet channel, a design flaw, contamination with dirt, ice on the walls. A narrowing of the diameter of the chimney duct may cause a weakening of draft.

The flue pipes are too long. It is recommended that you carefully read the installation manual for the gas unit and follow all the necessary requirements. Too large a horizontal section of the smoke exhaust pipe may cause a lack of necessary draft.

The pressure switch-traction sensor is broken - If a vacuum occurs in the supply tube, a soft click will be heard. Loss of contact between the electronic board and the pressure switch-traction sensor, condensation in the tubes, as well as incorrect connection of the tubes to the pressure switch.

Fan operation is suspended - There is a blockage in the fan impeller. There is not enough lubricant on the fan shaft, so it does not generate the required speed. There is no contact between the fan and the control board.

Error F75- Is a sign of low pressure in the system.

The main factors that cause this problem are: low water pressure in the heating circuit. Lost contact between pressure sensor and electronic board. The pressure switch is faulty.

The first step is to check the pressure gauge readings. Very often, the problem can be eliminated by using a feed tap, which is installed to fill the system with coolant.

If the problem occurs again, there is most likely a water leak. May leak hydraulic pump, primary heat exchanger, relief valve, damaged seals and gaskets, make-up valve and other components. Leaks can be found by visually inspecting hydraulic units and components.

Gas in operation floor Proterm Bear 40 KLOM. In the last month, the F1 ignition error has been showing up almost around the clock. After restarting using the reset key, the boiler starts well from time to time, but this does not happen often. Just recently I removed the air intake plug and it began to function better. What problem is this?

If it shows a smoke exhaust error, you need to open the protective covers. This will facilitate the intake of air from the living space. Then inspect the chimney pipe for ice and, if necessary, clean it. If the failure is associated with a flame breaking off, you need to find out whether gas is flowing into the house.

Error code F2 is constantly on the boiler. Help me figure out what the problem is?

This code indicates a problem with the heating system temperature sensor. It may need to be changed.

Why did the Protherm Bear 30 KLOM floor-standing boiler stop turning on? Error F3 also comes on constantly. How to fix this?

This malfunction often occurs due to some problems in the thermostat, temperature sensor, and also due to malfunctions of the main circulation circuit. Apparently, the heat exchanger overheated. If the thermostat and temperature sensor are working properly, then the problem is with the electronic board. It will need to be replaced.

Why does the device not start and error F75 is displayed? Pressure is maintained normally and there are no leaks. I turn it off from the mains, but the problem does not go away. Help, how to fix it?

A fault code may be displayed when the water pressure in the heating circuit decreases. In case of such a malfunction, we recommend checking the pressure switch sensor. Most likely, the problem is there.

The malfunction of the device is as follows: the hot water supply is adjusted to a temperature of 45 degrees. If you open a hot water tap, the gas burner ignites and then goes out. This process occurs regularly. Either cold or warm water may come from the tap. Periodically shows error F3. What is the reason?

This failure indicates water boiling in the DHW circuit. Most likely, the heat exchanger is very dirty, and the thermostat is also incorrectly adjusted.

I have this problem. During ignition, the device shows an error code F28 (flame loss). When I reboot, it turns on normally, but as soon as the burner lights up, you can hear strange clicking noises, and then an error message appears. I replaced the ignition electrode, washed the flow sensor, turned the plug over, but the result was zero. What's happened?

This malfunction can occur in several cases. Damage to the flame control electrode. Incorrect gas supply. The electronic board is faulty.

The device itself has stopped working and displays code F75. What can be done?

Low coolant level in the device or defective pressure switch. First add water to the heating circuit.

The gas unit stops working with error code F36 displayed. Blowing and cleaning doesn't help. What could it be?

This situation indicates a lack of draft, and it is necessary to check the combustion product removal system. Presumably, the membrane may stick. In other cases, it is necessary to call the service department for a thorough inspection of the device and then follow it up.

In our house there is a gas boiler Bear 50 KLOM. An error with code F4 began to appear. The unit itself does the work; we regulate the temperature of the coolant manually. When it was being installed, it apparently overheated because the automatic temperature mode was turned on. We do not have an external air temperature sensor. What is causing this malfunction?

Presumably, the DHW temperature sensor is faulty. In some cases, the electronics board fails.

The boiler operates for approximately 4-5 minutes, then switches off gas-burner, and an error appears with code F36. It burns for no more than a minute, the burner device is turned on again for ignition, and the device works well for another 5-6 minutes, and so on in a circle. This failure, based on the operating instructions, means that the draft sensor is triggered, but the chimney channel is not clogged, and combustion products are discharged normally. I just can’t figure out what is causing the problem?

IN specific case, the main factors for the lack of traction can be: breakdown of the pneumatic relay-traction sensor. Lack of contact between the traction sensor-relay and the electronic board. There is condensation, as well as an incorrect connection of the tubes to the pressure switch. Incorrect fan operation. It probably runs at low speeds.

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Heating system control. Installation. Connection. Transfer to another type of gas. Adjustment devices and protection devices.

Peculiarities. Installation and installation. Automation components.

Technical specifications. Installation. Adjustment and checking. Maintenance.

Adjustment and protection. Installation and assembly. Pressure setting. Maintenance.

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After starting, a malfunction appeared. It doesn’t want to turn on, it worked for two years, now the whole display lights up, just like when the boiler is turned on, when the self-diagnosis mode is in progress, then it clicks, turns off for miles and seconds and turns on the whole display again. It turned on once, but it gives error E10 water pressure, although the pressure in the system is 1.5 atm. Tell me, what could it be?

We installed and connected the Baxi Fourtech 24 F boiler. What cold water pressure is allowed at the inlet to the DHW device?

Bosch 6000 24 kW boiler, single-circuit with built-in three-way valve. The boiler sensor does not see it and gives an error. Tell me how to do it so that it doesn’t give an error and works normally for both the heating and the boiler?

If you turn off the DHW flow sensor, maybe it will be possible to reprogram it into a single-circuit device through menu L3?

We installed an Arderia esr 2.13 ffcd boiler. If my coolant pressure drops slightly by a couple of notches over 2-3 days, could the reason be a faulty three-way valve (there are no leaks from the radiators)?

The gas boiler Arderia 2.35 is in operation. Tell me about reducing power. I heard something about modulation, fan speed, etc. Is it really possible to reduce power?

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We installed and connected the Buderus Logano G234-WS-44 kW boiler, automatic Logomatic 4211. Heating is based on cylinders without hot water, and the jets for reduced gas were also replaced. We survived the winter, the cylinders were replaced, all without problems. Then in the spring, when the outside temperature was +16+18, the boiler began to turn off for a long time and when turned on, it began to display a burner error on the screen and the red button light on the front wall came on. We pressed the button, turned the power back on and everything worked. This happened several times, then the boiler was turned off completely for the summer, what could be the problem?

In the single-circuit Buderus 072, is the BKN coil circuit heated by the same heat exchanger as for heating or the same as on the 2-circuit one that is used for DHW?

Tell me, for Vaillant wall-mounted gas boilers, are there real/actual differences for the better in the new generation turboTEC plus VU/5-5 compared to /3-5?

There is a malfunction in the boiler, the green LED (power) is flashing, the instructions say that the thermal protection has tripped, the green indicator is flashing, even if nothing is connected to the board. How to fix? I checked all SMD resistors and transistors, everything is fine.

In operation there is a double-circuit gas boiler Daewoo Gasboiler with an electronic panel. When the DHW is turned on, the heating heats up, the operating mode is summer. I removed the three-way valve, there is no dirt or wear. It seems that the board does not control the three-way valve. How to check?

The Electrolux Basic Xi ​​wall-mounted boiler has been installed and connected. A problem began that the boiler stopped seeing the flame and turned off the gas supply after 7-8 seconds. And after 3 attempts it gave error E1. How can I fix it?

Koreastar boiler malfunction. The heating works perfectly, the hot water comes intermittently, when you turn on the hot water tap, cold water comes out first, then boiling water. After a few seconds it’s cool, then boiling water again. What could be the problem?

The Ferroli Domiproject 24 boiler is malfunctioning - I set it to 60-70 degrees, it switches to minimum combustion, does not turn on, does not turn off. Restart is unstable. No pattern emerges. What to do?

In operation, a Junkers euroline gas boiler, when hot water is turned on, gas ignites, then goes out, and so on several times. If you turn it on while the heating is running, the water heating starts immediately. Tell me, please, what could be the problem?

Tell me about the adjustments of the gas boiler Navien Ace 16 turbo remote control v1.3. It is not possible to adjust the fan run-on. I set it to 30 seconds, but still 2 minutes. spins.

Malfunction of the Oasis ZRT18 boiler. The unit starts, the gas lights up, then goes out. It lights up again and then goes out (this happens three times). Then it lights up and works fine. It doesn't give any error. What is the reason?

Malfunction of the Senor Duval gas boiler - the water pressure sensor shows 0.0, the indicator flashes red, the hot water does not heat up, but the water pressure in the apartment is good. How to fix the problem?

Where should a condensate trap be installed in a coaxial chimney? The boiler wh1d with a closed combustion chamber is located at a distance of 1 m from the wall.

Problem starting the Westen Pulsar D boiler. Piezo ignition works, but there is no flame, error E01 after a crackling sound. I moved the fork around.

The Novella floor-standing gas boiler is blocked - the green lights on the panel are on and nothing else happens. How to fix?

An Ariston gas wall-mounted boiler has been installed and connected, which does not hold pressure at all: while cooling the heated water, the pressure drops to zero, although water is regularly filled. What about the pressure?

Questions for specialists regarding boiler malfunctions Proterm Panther

Question:

I have a Panther 24 KTV boiler. Seven years in work. There were no comments. Now a problem I don't understand has appeared. Operating pressure in the boiler 2.5 bar at a temperature of 60 degrees. After turning off the boiler and cooling it, the pressure shows 0.3 bar. The boiler does NOT turn on.

When adding water to 0.6-1.0 bar, the boiler turns on and works normally, until next shutdown. Also, a drip leak from the safety valve appeared, which did not happen before. Nine ten-section aluminum radiators are connected to the boiler. There are no leaks in the heating system. Verified. Tell me what to do?

Check the pressure in expansion tank, bring to 0.02 bar. Everything will return to normal.

Proterm 30 wall-mounted, 1st floor 95 sq.m., second floor 55 sq.m. + heated floor on the first floor. It worked fine for two months, when the temperature hit -25 and started showing error f33. I restarted, and a day later the error repeated. I restarted again and it seems to be working fine. What is this connected with?

This error indicates that your chimney has frostbite. In this situation, I need from you a photo of the chimney from the street side. Along the way, we simply made a mistake when installing the chimney. This error is very common among installers, make a hole in the wall, pull the pipe out into the street and you're done - there are still a bunch of conditions that must be met in order not to catch the F33 error.

The Protherm Panther is installed, the boiler is 6 years old, the problem is that the boiler does not turn off at all, it is constantly on, the temperature is set to 55 (it cannot even be set above 60), although according to the passport it is 80. What is the problem? It consumes a lot of gas, the boiler is 28 kW, according to the passport the consumption is no higher than 30 cubic meters, in fact, all 50. I called specialists, they cleaned everything, changed the membrane tank, ordered to install an additional one, everything was done, it costs two additional pumps, on the floor and the second floor of the battery, all in vain, they looked at the “brains”, they think that it might be the problem, but the result is again the same, the boiler is constantly working. What could be the reason? Changing brains is expensive. Yes, and the pressure began to constantly drop, once every two days you have to add water to 1.5-1.8 atmospheres, after two days it drops to 1-0.9.

To put it simply, your boiler is programmatically limited to a temperature of 60 degrees (in your words). Most likely, the same is true with the boiler power. In order for the boiler to operate at max. Efficiency needs to be correctly calculated for your load (in this case, the number of sections of heating radiators and heated floors) and the power that your boiler should produce (set programmatically) and, accordingly, to eliminate, if possible, heat loss in the house.

Regarding the pressure drop, if you drained and refilled water from the heating system, then for some time within 3-7 days it is normal that your pressure drops and you refill the system - this is most likely air coming out of the heating system through the Mayevsky taps (if you have them installed). Another reason may be more serious - a water leak in the heating system (the worst case is if it is in a warm floor).

It is checked by inspection, and the heated floor must be turned off for some time (turn off the taps on the comb through which you have the heated floor connected to the boiler) and see how the pressure in the system behaves. If the pressure stops falling, and when the heated floor is turned on, it starts to fall again, it means
leak in underfloor heating).

The problem is this: Proterm Panther 24 kW boiler with natural draft, error F1 comes on, resetting helps but not for long, although it can work for half a day. I changed the phasing (twisted the plug). There is no grounding on the boiler, maybe this is an ambush? And also, what options could there be to “treat” this error?

This error indicates the heating return sensor, 1.check the contacts on the sensor for oxidation; 2. Check the operation of the circulation pump.

Protherm Panther wall-mounted boiler 30 kW, in operation for 2 years, it suddenly became weak to heat the water in DHW mode, everything switches, the gas is on, the pressure is normal, you set it to 49-60 degrees, the output is 30-40 degrees, the temperature does not go to the heating, even in summer mode, the pump works, the gas pressure is normal, the three-way valve switches, the water pressure is as always, the service specialists throw up their hands, they say we need to test the boiler at their stand, but now it’s autumn (cold) although the heating system is working normally40 -75gr., I don’t know what the reason is (fiction), probably we need to install a separate boiler for hot water

Most likely you have a problem with the secondary heat exchanger.

Panther 30 KVT wall-mounted boiler. The burner does not gain full power.. We are using the third season, the first season worked with a bang (powerful flame, fast heating of the heating system, high-quality start-up after using hot water, although the network voltage was weak), in the second season the electricians replaced our substation, the voltage The network is stable and within normal limits, problems began with starting after using the mountains. water, reset the error, it will start. Tolerable.

But in the third winter, there were constant problems: after using water, it started on the 9th or 10th attempt, it crackled all over when igniting, and every minute something would fall off, sometimes at night you would spend an hour running it, twisting and disassembling it. If you remove all the covers, the flame will light up a little and go out. And if it doesn’t go out, then it burns weakly, but enough to keep you from freezing. Error codes according to classification - ignition errors.

For normal operation of the boiler you need a programmer, I checked it on myself.

Our protherm panter 24 kvt boiler turns off after using hot water and stops working for heating. Please tell me what could be the reason and how can I fix the problem?

Your three-way valve has failed, you need to remove it and clean it.

Protherm Panther wall-mounted boiler 30 kW, 2-pipe system, installed two months ago, often turns on and off at any temperature (40-70 degrees). The supply to the batteries is hot - the return is cold. Top part batteries 20 cm hot, bottom cold. The end batteries are completely cold.

When the boiler and batteries are vented and no hot water is used, the pump does not make noise. When using hot water, the pump begins to make noise (gurgling noise) as if air has entered it, and the batteries, even if they have been warmed up, begin to cool down, while the boiler begins to continuously turn on and off frequently, 3-4 times every 1 minute.

There is air in the system, you need to drain all the water from the system through the return valve, to completely drain the water from the system, unscrew the Mayevsky valve from any radiator, then through the return valve, start filling the system with water; as the system fills, bleed the air from the radiators until water comes out, then you close the drain valve and turn on the boiler and there are no problems, you probably filled the system through the make-up valve in the boiler, this can be done, but it is difficult to expel the air, and the boiler is excellent, I don’t have any such problems.

Question:

I have a Proterm Panther 24K boiler, which has an ABC 537 ignition unit. The boiler is working fine, but lately the F1 error has started to pop up randomly more and more often.

I disassembled the unit and found that there were no solders on input connectors. I soldered it and it became much better. But with proper ignition, a continuous breakdown occurs between the ignition electrodes, and sometimes a breakdown occurs, then a pause and again an uncertain spark (as if in bursts of pulses).

Most likely, after such an incident, an error appears. How to localize a fault if it happens once every 3-4 days.

The problem is scale in the heat exchangers, there is overheating and it turns off.

Adjusted high pressure gas to the burner, resulting in sudden overheating when the burner is operating at 100%. Either your heat leakage is high or the heat exchanger inside the pipe has a high coating and very low efficiency

Question:

Please tell me what kind of gas automatic equipment is installed on the protherm pantera boiler? SIT? What number?

As a rule, the SIT 845 SIGMA automation is installed on the Proterm Panther boiler.

At the dacha, the gas boiler Proterm Panther began to act up. Suddenly stops heating and drops the temperature to 20°. What could have happened to him?

There can be several reasons for this problem, ranging from the usual mechanical blockage and to serious breakdowns. It is necessary to carry out a complete diagnostic of the device.

After a sudden power outage, the Panther gas boiler began to respond poorly to the buttons and malfunction. When examining the board, I saw swollen capacitors. Can you repair this?

The board needs repair or replacement.

After a sudden blackout, the fuse of the gas boiler Proterm Panther-24 burned out, although the boiler was turned on through the stabilizer. After replacing the fuse, the boiler was re-plugged directly into the outlet - and the fuse burned out again. What is the problem?

Obviously, there was a voltage surge that was not detected by the stabilizer. It’s bad that the voltage in the network was not measured at the time of the breakdown. You should now see what condition the board is in, whether there are any charred areas. It is likely that the thyristor on the board has burned out.

Wall gas Protherm Panther 25 turns on only the 2nd time, after turning off it waits half an hour and starts again - regardless of the set temperature. The inside of the boiler is clean. What could be the problem?

The main problems to check are: poor gas supply, insufficient current and dirty ionization electrodes.

PROTHERM PANTERA 25 KTV errors do not appear, hot water is either warm or cold, secondary heat exchanger, hot boiler is on or off, what is the problem?

Most likely, the heat exchanger needs to be replaced.

Boiler Proterm Panther 2 years. Error F75 started appearing. With the heating system on the second floor closed, the boiler works. But now the same error occurs. We closed the heated floors on the first floor and it worked. Could this be because the boiler power was adjusted and reduced a year ago? The area of ​​the house is 145 sq. + heated floors, the boiler has 24.8 kW. Or is it something else?

Most likely the water pressure sensor is faulty. Or it was simply clogged with dirt from the heating system.

A protherm panther gas boiler is installed at home, which gives error F 28. How to fix this? Please tell me!

Error F28 (electronic ionization does not see the flame during ignition) This is usually either a faulty gas fitting or a dirty boiler.

Boiler Pantera 24 (12) WHO is showing error F.75, what does this mean?

Error F75 - repeated error of the pressure sensor; after starting the pump, no pressure surge was registered.

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