How to build a basement staircase inside a house. How to make a staircase to the basement for entrance from the street. What should be a comfortable staircase to the cellar?

The basement in the house is used for a variety of purposes: for storing food, jams and pickles for the winter, as well as unnecessary things. Often, cottage owners make a separate ground floor in the basement, equip there not only rooms for storing supplies, but also a laundry room, a sauna, a billiard room, Gym etc. The beautifully decorated room on the first floor is completely different from the gloomy basement room. The staircase plays an important role in such a room. Beautiful and stylish, it will add additional charm to the room.
A staircase to the garage basement is also needed. Thanks to it, the garage can be used not only for a car, but also for storing various items needed in the household. To make using the basement comfortable, you need to take care of a convenient and safe staircase to the basement.
Depending on the material from which it is made, we can distinguish:

1. Wooden structures;
2. Metal;
3. Concrete option;
4. A combination of metal and wood trim.

Technical requirements for the stairs to the basement

In order for the design to be convenient and safe, it must meet several technological requirements:

1. The minimum width should be 40 cm, and the most best option for comfortable movement – ​​from 60 cm and wider. The wider it is, the easier it is to move and carry bulky objects.
2. It is advisable to make the slope angle no more than 45 degrees. Of course, for the stairs to the basement a slope of up to 75 degrees is acceptable, but with a strong slope it will be impossible to go down to the basement and go up even with a very light load in your hands.
3. To make the structure comfortable to move, you need to make the riser height around 20 cm, and the tread - 30-35 cm. However, such dimensions can reduce the usable area of ​​the cellar, so you need to select the best option based on the size of the cellar.
4. The ladder must be very strong, because heavy loads will have to be lowered into the basement, possibly even with an assistant.
5. When designing, you need to take into account increased level humidity in the basement. That's why metal structure need to be treated with primer and enamel to prevent corrosion. And wooden structures must be treated with antibacterial agents and drying oil, which will protect the wood from rotting and prevent the proliferation of pests.

Types of Basement Stairs

Depending on the design, the following types are distinguished:

1. A one-flight staircase is the simplest option that you can install with your own hands.
2. Straight in one march with an intermediate platform. This option allows you to make the structure less steep and more comfortable for dragging heavy objects. In addition, it is quite compact and convenient for small basements.
3. The two-flight design with an intermediate platform is very convenient for carrying loads, but takes up a lot of space:
4. The spiral staircase to the basement is very convenient and takes up little space, but you must move along it very carefully, and carrying loads is almost impossible.

Inspection before use

The staircase must be inspected before use. Her appearance can tell a lot: a strong and reliable ladder will be free of burrs, chips, cracks, and traces of rust. If any defects are discovered during the initial inspection, they must be eliminated before starting active operation.
When using for the first time, it is advisable to go down into the basement without a load to check the reliability of the structure. If it is strong enough and can easily withstand the weight of a person, you can safely use it for its intended purpose in the future.

Use of basement stairs and methods of working with them

Such structures are used both in houses and in garages and cellars. A basement staircase will help you go down to the basement of a house or garage and move various things there for storage. Depending on the purpose, the type of structure is chosen. So the staircase to the basement from the house should not only be safe, but also environmentally friendly, and also match the interior of the house. Stairs to the cellar and basement The garage must, first of all, be strong, safe and convenient for carrying heavy and bulky objects.
If any defects appear during use, they must be corrected in a timely manner. If you use a metal staircase to the basement, then it must be protected from corrosion, and if rust is detected, it should be treated with special means. If steps on a wooden structure break, they must be repaired immediately, as broken parts can cause injury to a person. If fungus, mold, or insect pests are detected, you can treat wooden structure special antibacterial substances and drying oil.
At correct operation and good care, the stairs to the basement will last a long time and will help turn the basement into a useful part of the house or garage.

Video: Stairs to the basement

The staircase is an important element of the basement or cellar, because it is along it that descent and ascent are carried out, and often these actions have to be performed not with empty handed. Therefore, a well-made and correctly installed staircase should not only be comfortable, but also guarantee the safety of the people using it. In the article we will look at several options on how to make a staircase to the cellar with your own hands.

• Standard or attached, which is made of wood or metal;
• marching type - it is recommended to install it already in finished form during the construction of a storage facility, but it is quite possible to carry out such a structure in an existing building.

Choosing a material for making stairs to the cellar of a house

• Tree. Due to the temperature characteristics of the cellar, this material requires special treatment. This will protect the wood from bacterial rot, damage by bugs and other insects, mosses, and lichens. It is recommended to consolidate the obtained result with a glazing agent, which forms protective film. When processing, Special attention should be given to the cuts and ends. This can significantly extend the life of a wooden staircase.
• Metal. When using new metal, you must first remove any traces of corrosion using an abrasive material. Then you should wipe it detergent and rinse clean water. It is recommended to paint the steps in 3-5 layers, here it will work as Oil paint, and enamel.
• Concrete. Despite the high strength characteristics concrete surfaces, they need protection. They can be coated with paint in a couple of layers or cladding steps floor tiles, only this option implies large financial costs. Linoleum or special self-adhesive mats are also suitable.

Advice: a structure that has been recently poured with concrete cannot be painted; it must be allowed to sit for at least a month.

Basic parameters of the stairs to the cellar

• Stair width, intended for a cellar, is permissible within 70-90 cm. But this parameter mainly depends on the layout of the room and if the area allows, then you can arrange the staircase with a wider flight.
• Staircase clearance in an existing cellar it is calculated from the lowest step to the upper barrier (floor beam). If a new basement is being built, then this parameter should be at least 1.9 m, but, of course, the higher the ceiling, the more convenient it is to go down into the room. In this case, the risk of hitting your head on the ceiling is minimal.
• Stair slope can range from 22 to 75°. Here, the lower the degree of inclination, the more usable area this structure occupies. A steeper slope (45-75°) is typical for attached options.

• Step width is in the range from 25 to 32 cm, a wider tread will create inconvenience when climbing. If the parameter is less than the minimum, then the descent will become extremely dangerous.
• Step height is within the range of 12-22 cm, but no more.

Stair step size calculations

Ratio of width and height of steps calculated based on the average step of a person, which is 60-64 cm. Here it is necessary to add the double height of the step with the width of the tread and equate it to the person’s step, then it is solved as a regular equation.

For example, the most convenient step height is 15 cm, then:

• 2ˣ15+x=60
• 30+x=60
• x=60-30
• x=30 cm (step width).

Or you can calculate based on the following parameter - the width of the step, which is 28 cm:

• 2x+28=64
• 2x=64-28
• 2x=36
• x=18 cm (step height)

Such calculations help determine the most optimal ratio of stage parameters.

• Draw a right angle on graph paper, observing the scale. Use a protractor to mark the desired angle (the slope of the stairs) and draw a line. Measure the resulting length with a regular ruler;
• draw an angle of 90° on the drawing, mark a point on the vertical line corresponding to the height of the ceiling, on the horizontal line - bottom edge stairs. If you connect these points, you get the hypotenuse, by calculating which you can get the length of the stairs. Such actions are performed using the Pythagorean theorem. To do this, you need to measure the height of the ceiling and the distance from the corner to the place where this structure ends. For example, one side is 2 m, the other is 1.5 m, then:
  • a² + b² = c²
  • 2² + 1.5² = s²
  • 4+2.25=s²
  • s²=6.25
  • c=2.5 m (length of the stairs).

The number of steps is calculated by dividing the length of the future structure by their height. If we take a 2.5 m staircase as a basis and divide it into optimal height- 0.13 cm, then you get 19.2 steps. Here it should immediately be noted that the last step is at the very bottom of the structure, so its installation is not carried out. If you receive such a fractional result, you can do the following:

• Make 18 steps at the desired height, and make the top or bottom “wrong”;
• evenly distribute the remaining centimeters over all steps;
• perform the last step in the form of a podium.

Ladders

Below are 4 of the most simple options ladders, which even a novice “builder” can implement.

Wooden staircase to the cellar

Option one

To make a structure 240 cm long, 60 cm wide and in increments of 30 cm you will need:

• for supports - 2 boards 10x15x240 cm;
• 7 crossbars - 5x10x80 cm;
• 28 wood screws 5x100 mm.

Stages of work

• Place the support boards on a level surface horizontal surface. Measure 30 cm from their edges, place the first crossbar on top of them, carefully aligning the end connection.
• Fastening is done with two screws to each stringer, the consumption of hardware is as follows - 4 screws per 1 cross member.
• The installation of subsequent stages is carried out in the same way. Measuring the appropriate distance from the previous cross member.

Second option

To make a 2-meter staircase, the width of the flight of which is 80 cm, and the height of the steps is 22 cm, you need:

• 2 boards 10x15x200;
• 6 boards 6x20x80;
• 12 bars 5x5x15;
• 60 nails 4x100 or wood screws 5x100.

This structure is planned to be installed with a slope of 30°; this parameter is very important to take into account when assembling it.

Stages of work

• To the supports of the future staircase, you first need to fasten the bars onto which the steps will be mounted in the future. To do this, measure 26 cm from the top and attach a support at an angle of 60°. Why this particular slope was chosen - when the ladder is installed in its place, maintaining a slope of 30 degrees, the steps will take a horizontal position.
• The bars are fastened with 2 nails or self-tapping screws; for greater reliability, you can use one more hardware. The points for subsequent supports are measured in increments of 26 cm. Thus, the remaining support bars are also fastened.
• The next step is installing the steps. When attaching them, the ends are aligned from the back, since the protrusion should be on the front side of the stairs. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws (nails) at three points.

Metal staircase to the cellar

A staircase made of pipes is installed quite quickly and easily; here the elements can be fastened using a welding machine or using inverter equipment for home use.

First option

So, for example, to construct a structure 2.2 m long, with a flight width of 70 cm and a pitch of 25 cm, the following material is required:

• pipes with a diameter of 50-60 mm;
• for crossbars - 7 rolled metal products of 70 cm each with a round cross-section of 25-30 mm.

Stages of work

• 25 cm are measured from the top of the pipes and the first step is fastened with a butt seam, then the remaining crossbars are installed with the same step. As can be seen from this “guide”, no difficulties will arise when implementing the structures.

Second option

Next manufacturing method iron stairs the cellar is a frame, where the steps can be made of corrugated metal or wood.

It is made from a 50x100 mm channel and a 50x50 mm angle.

Stages of work

• First, you should prepare some support for the step from the corners. Where one side is the width of the tread, the other is the height of the riser.
• The angle between them should correspond to the angle of inclination of the stairs relative to the floor. So, if it is 45°, then between metal elements the slope is the same.
• The number of blanks depends on the number of steps, for example, if you plan to perform 7 steps, then you will need 14 fragments.
• Place the channel on the edge and mark the point where the first stage will be located, and weld the workpiece. Between each subsequent such elements the angle must be 90°.
• After the support posts are installed, they need to be strengthened. To do this, a steel corner is welded to the protruding fragments of the supports and at the points of their connection to the channel, thereby forming a frame.
• The staircase frame is ready, now you can start finishing the flight; corrugated sheet or lumber can be used as an overlay. This design allows you to close the space of the riser.

How to make a staircase to a cellar from concrete

Undoubtedly, a concrete staircase for this type of room is an ideal option. It is not afraid of corrosion; over time it will not bend or begin to creak. Installation of a finished concrete staircase, which can be standard or made according to an individual sketch, is carried out during the construction phase of the building.

But, if you want to make it yourself, then you need to prepare for significant costs and a labor-intensive process.

Advice: this requires careful calculations of the components: cement, sand, lumber. In addition, special attention should be paid to the parameters of the structure itself: the size of the steps, the height of the stairs, its slope, etc. After all, the structure is monolithic, so it will be impossible to make any changes or amendments.

Stages of work

Formwork

• First, the so-called “deck” is completed - the lowest part of the structure. For this, it is recommended to use a solid sheet of FSF plywood (waterproof grade), with a thickness of at least 18mm. Her bottom part it is necessary to strengthen it with the help of supports, because it bears the entire load: additionally installed elements and, of course, a considerable mass of concrete mortar. Here you can use 100x100 mm bars or 50x150 mm boards.

• Next, a flange is installed, which, firstly, prevents the pouring from leaking out and, secondly, serves as a place for attaching the supports of future steps. These cross members form the final appearance of the staircase. The sides of the structure are also reinforced with boards, giving them the necessary rigidity.
• The lumber to form the steps themselves is attached to the stringers through the end parts of the structure, or reinforced metal corners can be used. The lower step requires more reliable fastening.

The main requirements for the construction of formwork are:

• For fastening, use only self-tapping screws, this will greatly simplify the subsequent dismantling of the structure;
• this structure must be very strong and stable so that no movement occurs when pouring the concrete mixture. During such work, deformation of the formwork is not allowed.

Reinforcement

• Metal rods add strength to a concrete structure. The preferred thickness, which is 10x12 mm, when bundled, the cells should have dimensions of 100x120 mm or 150x200 mm. The reinforcement is fastened together with wire; this work can be done manually or using a special hook.
• To prevent crumbling of the step edge during operation, it is necessary to strengthen this place with additional transverse reinforcement.

Concreting

• Before starting pouring, it is recommended to cover all joints of the structure with a thick sand-cement mortar. This will prevent the appearance of differences, thereby simplifying further finishing work.

• As a rule, when mixing the mortar, the following ratio of cement and sand is used: 5 parts of sand take 1 part of Portland cement M500, 3 parts of sand - 1 part of M300 cement, etc.
• First, the first 2 steps are poured and formed, carefully monitoring the filling of all voids in the frame. During installation, it is advisable to use some object that pierces the concrete mixture. In this way, the formed air cavities are removed, because they can subsequently negatively affect the strength characteristics of the finished staircase.
• At this stage concrete mixture must be subjected to vibration, then using a trowel or wide spatula the steps are given their final appearance. The remaining steps are performed in the same sequence of pouring-laying-vibrating.

Finished design

Just a few days after pouring, you can dismantle the frame. It happens in stages:

• First, the formwork of the steps is carefully removed;
• then the sidewalls are released;
• and only after two weeks is the “deck” of the structure removed. The finished monolithic product is sanded, plastered and puttied.

Of course, extension ladders for rooms such as a cellar or basement have advantages - minimal time and material costs, and they are also easy to remove or simply move.

But going up and down them, especially if you have a jar of cucumbers in one hand and a bag of potatoes in the other, is very inconvenient. In this situation, a dilemma will arise - to maintain balance or to conserve winter reserves.

What to build a staircase from and how to choose the best design option is, of course, up to the cellar owner to decide.

Stairs to the cellar photo

Stairs to the basement are among the main structures of a private house; their type and size are selected at the design stage. The criteria taken into account in the calculation are area, location of the entrance hatch or door, intensity and safety of cellar operation, aesthetics, need for carrying heavy objects, work budget and level of influence on steps and supports external factors. The construction time is affected by the material and varies from one shift to a month.

Types of basement stairs

Depending on the installation method, they are divided into stationary and attached; the second type has a smaller width and can be prefabricated. This option is suitable for rarely visited or limited space spaces, including garages. Stationary ones are installed in the basements of private houses; given the heavy loads, serious requirements are placed on them in terms of moisture and bioresistance, strength and safety. Aesthetics do not play a special role, an exception is made only for structures connecting wine cellars with the first floor.

Highlight:

1. Single-flight (straight) stairs with a slope of up to 75°, without turning platforms or with a bend. The advantages include the ease of calculation and construction on your own, the disadvantages are the need for a large area for placement: the less space it takes, the steeper the descent into the basement will be.

2. Multi-flight, with platforms, used in houses with large area or when arranging the entrance to industrial premises.

3. With winder steps, visually increasing the width of the cellar and occupying less space in comparison with rotary marching ones, but inferior to other types in convenience. When calculating them, complex requirements for steps are taken into account: the dimensions of the internal and external edges are limited to 10 and 40 cm, respectively, the height varies from 12 to 22, the protrusion of the edge should not exceed 4, for all their aesthetics they are rarely used in private houses, especially with limited width.

4. Spiral staircases, relevant for small size entrance. This design includes a reliable support rod and comfortable steps with the same width; the safety of their operation is achieved by installing them along the edge of the railing opposite the central axis. The calculations are trusted to specialists; if you use the correct drawing or factory blanks, installation can be done by yourself. This variety is mainly represented by wooden or metal types; pouring concrete is extremely difficult.

A separate classification concerns the location; they can be adjacent to the walls or standing remotely. Depending on the method of fastening the steps, there are options on bolts, stringers, screwed to the central rod or poured into a single monolith with fixation to the base of the floor and the upper ceiling or to them with the addition of an adjacent vertical cellar wall. Marching stairs leading to the basement can be through, monolithic, with usable space underneath or without storage rooms and niches.

Depending on the material of the steps and supports, wooden, reinforced concrete, metal and combined types are distinguished. Pure wood systems are rarely installed due to high level humidity, which is typical even for a well-ventilated underground, they quickly become unusable. Dense materials have properties suitable for cellars. valuable species, used for finishing railings or laying steps.

In order to extend their service life, they must be treated with antiseptic compounds and moisture-resistant coatings and periodically inspected. TO important nuances Dry such parts outside, in a well-ventilated area.

Metal stairs are valued for their reliability and durability, when applied multi-layer anti-corrosion protection they will last more than one year. The minimum cross-section of the profile beams, pipes and angles used is 50 mm, the metal thickness should be above 0.7 mm, but in general they can be called economical. Another argument in their favor is the ease of installation: with minimal experience in welding, installation by hand takes 1-3 days, and when purchasing ready-made factory structures, it takes several hours. To ensure safety, their steps are made of corrugated (rather than smooth) strips of metal or wood; long marks are equipped with railings.

What to consider when drawing up a staircase drawing?

Severe demands are made in terms of safety and convenient movement; whenever possible, the systems are made wider and protected by railings. When calculating the most popular varieties (straight single-flight or L-shaped turning) and selecting a scheme, the following recommendations are taken into account:

• The slope does not exceed the range from 22 to 75°, for stationary structures the optimal upper limit is 45°: the lower it is, the safer.
• The amount of clearance is determined based on the distance from the floor beams (floor of the house) to the foundation: the higher this indicator is, the better, it directly affects the comfort of use.
• If the number of steps is more than 5, it is recommended to secure the stairs with railings.
• The width of the march depends on availability free space, the permissible minimum is 70 cm.
• The dimensions of the steps vary from 12 to 22 cm in height and from 25 to 35 in width. Their ratio is calculated based on the average human step of 60-62 cm.

Step-by-step construction of a monolithic concrete staircase with your own hands

It can be monolithic with a fully supported base in the floor or poured into a special formwork with a slope. The advantages of the first option include absolute reliability, the disadvantages include excessive load on bearing structures. Standard scheme action includes the following steps:

1. Drawing up a drawing taking into account the area and features of the basement, calculating the amount of materials, preparing tools.

2. Screwing the side slots to the walls (for adjacent systems) in order to subsequently secure the reinforced frame.

3. Check and, if necessary, strengthen the base. With sufficiently reliable concrete screed there is no need for a special foundation; the site is simply cleared of debris, checked for horizontal level deviations and for the presence of minor defects. When a future concrete staircase rests on a soil, clay or weak floor, it is weak upper layer is removed by half a meter, the resulting depression is filled with crushed stone and sand, compacted and filled with mortar.

4. Assembling formwork from moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of at least 20 mm or even boards with the construction of reliable supports. In areas adjacent to the walls, they are additionally fixed - using self-tapping screws or incompletely driven nails. Bottom side The future concrete staircase is supported by racks made of timber, installed in increments of 50 cm with an appropriate slope. The flange is attached last, the assembled formwork is carefully checked for deviations from the level and lightly lubricated with oil to simplify removal. The joints are sealed with DSP in a ratio of 1:3; if there is a high risk of concrete leakage, it is recommended to cover the inside with film.

5. Assembling the reinforced frame from the bottom layer of the base to the upper elements, connecting the joints with wire and fixing them to the walls in the case of building an adjacent structure. The assembled frame must be securely tied to the load-bearing systems (floor, vertical walls and underground floor slab) and not reach the inner edges of the formwork and the upper level by 3-5 cm. Whole sections are used for tying, with large step widths and on straight turns. staircases are laid ready metal grid. In order to enhance the reliability of anchoring, the corners of the reinforcement are bent.

6. Preparation and pouring of mortar with a strength grade of at least M200, leveling the surfaces of the steps with a trowel, providing standard care. If there is a risk of the temperature in the cellar of private houses dropping below +5°, the room should be heated with cannons. In systems with provided railings, the necessary points are closed with wooden plugs, removed after 48-60 hours, the edges of the steps are reinforced with corners.

7. Careful removal of the formwork frame - after 60-72 hours (less if concrete with hardening accelerators is used). After dismantling is completed, leave it alone for 2-3 weeks.

8. Grinding to harden and remove minor irregularities.

9. Installation of railings (if available).

10. Finishing and strengthening. Taking into account the risk of condensation accumulation in the underground concrete structures are considered the most reliable, but even they need protection. To extend the service life of stairs in a private house, it is recommended to tile, iron or treat them with modern compounds.

11. Arranging the understory space: covering walls, installing partitions with doors or vertical shelving, connecting lighting and sockets.

All open metal parts are treated with anti-corrosion mixtures, protruding or unnecessary elements are trimmed. Self-installed concrete structures can be tied to the base; this design is chosen when arranging the entrance to the cellar from the street. With this option, it is worth adding a small flat area to the scheme, located next to the door, as a kind of buffer.

Wooden and metal varieties are installed faster, most often in the form of attachments. If the size of the house's underground is limited, it is recommended to make the support posts yourself from new pipes with a cross-section of 5 cm and above, the steps - from corners or channels. Minimum thickness boards in combined types– 24 mm, individual elements are connected to each other using welding or stainless steel hardware, all surfaces and joints are processed protective compounds. Unlike concrete ones, it is easier to make changes to wooden or metal stairs, but it is advisable to eliminate any errors at the stage of creating the drawing.

In a house with a basement, the staircase is important element, without which it is difficult, and sometimes impossible, to do without. In order for it to become convenient and fit into the design of the structure, you need to think through the main issues with its manufacture.

For example, make an estimate, determine where the stairs to the basement from the house will be installed, the configuration of the product, dimensions and select materials.

When composing, consider the following values:

• size of the basement;
• probable dimensions of the staircase opening;
• frequency of product operation;
• will large-sized cargo be carried;
• where the main entrance to the staircase will be located - from the street or from inside the room;
• convenience and safety of movement;
• compliance with the interior decoration of the room when the entrance to the basement is located inside the house;
• features and complexity of the design;
• financial expenses.

Design of stairs to descend to the basement

In fact, there are not so many such types of products, since they must meet very stringent requirements that are associated with the characteristics of the premises. Any basement staircase has certain advantages.

By choosing the most important ones, you can understand which staircase device will suit you best.

1. Marching is the easiest to make, as it is straight without turns. Anyone who has at least a little knowledge of construction can do it with their own hands. But there is not always free space for such a design.

A simple calculation shows that if the height of the basement is 3 m, you will need to install 14 steps. Their maximum permissible size, which is considered convenient, is 200 mm. The latter is not taken into account in the calculation, since it coincides with the floor level of the house.

If the tread depth is 250 mm, total length the product will be equal to 3.5 m. Therefore, it can be installed in the basement, where the width or length is at least 4 m.

1. With an intermediate platform - when using an “L” or “P” - shaped structure. If you leave a straight march, the product will be even longer due to the additional platform and will not fit in the basement.
   By reducing the size, you will not have questions about how to build a basement staircase in small spaces. However, greater width due to the additional span is not always convenient.

Tip: To minimize the size of your basement stairs, use winder steps.

The advantage of such products:

• allows you to pause for rest when lifting and lowering bulky objects;
• slight slope.

Flaws:

• a large basement is required;
• Difficulties may arise with the required size or arrangement of the staircase opening.

1. A spiral staircase to the basement is the most compact option. At the same time, it is not as convenient as previous products - the steps are high and very narrow, making it very difficult to carry large things along it. It is justified to use it only when there is an acute shortage of free space, and it should be used extremely rarely.

Material selection

An important stage of construction, on which the durability of the structure, convenience and safety of its operation depend.

There are several criteria to help you make the right decision:

1. High room humidity. Basements are most often not heated, which is why the dampness of the earth creates such an atmosphere. In addition, difficult ventilation also plays a detrimental role.
2. Location of the staircase entrance. From the street, the structure is constantly exposed to external atmospheric influences, therefore, the main requirement for the material is durability so that it can resist corrosion and aging, as well as mechanical damage.

The basement staircase, which leads to the first floor of the building, has slightly different requirements:

• beautiful appearance;
• compatibility with the interior.

1. Wood. You should not install a wooden structure in the basement, which is a cellar and where there is a high percentage of humidity. The material will quickly begin to deteriorate due to fungus and dampness.
   Treatment with various antiseptics will significantly increase its cost. But for residential or technical room This design is considered the best.
2. Concrete. The material easily resists destructive actions environment, so a structure made from it can be placed directly on the street. But it is also bulky and increases the load on the walls of the building. Most often, this option can be found not in residential buildings, and in the basements of industrial facilities and garages.

1. Metal. Perfect option for basement stairs when load-bearing elements are metal profile beams. They are easy to install, they are durable, moisture-resistant, the price is reasonable, and they do not pose any difficulties for self-installation.

Calculation

Below are instructions for calculating an L-shaped basement staircase. Let's place it along the walls to save space. This design makes it possible to effectively use the space underneath.

Drawing

Let's take as a basis the depth of the basement - 3 m, the width of the stairs - 900 mm. If the height of the steps is 170 mm, you need to make 18 of them.

Accordingly, you get two flights of 8 steps. 9 will coincide with the landing, 18 with the floor of the house. With a tread depth of 250 mm, the projection of the flights of stairs is 2 m.

This structure will occupy an area of ​​2.9 m x 2.9 m. Please note that in front of the 1st step you must leave space to enter it, so the size of the basement must be at least 3 m x 3.5 m.

Opening

After the 4th stage it will be 640 mm. With a floor thickness of 200 mm from the stairs, the distance will be 2150 mm, which is allowed.

But at the 5th stage it will reach 1980 mm, and a tall person can already hit his head on it. Therefore, there should be no more than four steps under the ceiling, with a total length of one meter.

The total length of the staircase opening will be 1900 mm, so for its installation you need an area with dimensions of 1900 mm x 900 mm.

Advice: by increasing the height of the steps and decreasing their depth, you can adjust the dimensions of the opening and stairs, but the design will not be so safe and convenient.

Creating a corner staircase from metal

1. Prepare a foundation pit by determining the location of its lower part. Then dig a hole with dimensions of 800 mm (depth) by 400 mm (length) and a width of just over 1 m.

1. Pour concrete into the pit, not reaching the edges by 150 mm. Place a reinforcing mesh made of Ø12 mm rods into the solution. From it, bring out 2 anchors with a height of 250 mm. The distance between them should be equal to the width of the stairs. Fill the pit completely concrete mortar– the foundation is ready.
2. Prepare three channels 140 mm wide. Weld them into a U-shaped structure, install a longer bar on top. Fix the free ends into the walls and fill with concrete.

This design eliminates the need for additional supports. If the walls in the basement are made of shell rock or other fragile material, leave holes in the places where the channels are attached and fill the space under them with brick or other durable materials.

1. Prepare metal stringers (4 pcs.) from a channel 140 mm wide and 2500 mm long. Weld the lower ends to the foundation anchors, the upper ends to landing. At the top flight: the lower ones - to the landing, the upper ones - to the ceiling.
2. Make steps from metal corner with a 50 mm flange according to predetermined dimensions and weld them to the channels. Make the seam with inside products. Also trim the excess ends of the corners.

1. At the last stage, finish the steps and flight of stairs wooden or metal overlays, which depends on the purpose of the basement and its microclimate.

Conclusion

We can confidently say that a metal staircase to the basement is the simplest and no less reliable option. In the video presented in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.