Iron staircase to the basement. How to make a staircase to the basement for entrance from the street. What you need to know when calculating a basement staircase

Peter Kravets

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A house with a basement or basement is a very good option for individual construction country cottages. Having subfloors provides many benefits to homeowners if they are constructed and finished correctly.

To enter the underground you need to select the stairs to the basement from the house optimal size, and make it structurally convenient for use and securely fixed.

The best option would be a direct design, single-flight, made of wood, concrete or metal. Wooden options Suitable for dry and warm basements. In order for the stairs to basement served for a long time, it must be correctly sized in terms of dimensions and a solid foundation must be made for it.

Calculation of dimensions

The typical width of a staircase to a basement in a residential private house is 0.9 meters. In the case of a basement, it is slightly increased to make it more convenient to carry products or things. The width of the step should be at least 0.3 m, and the height of the step should be about 20 cm.

Such parameters will be convenient for human movement and quite compact in conditions of limited space at home. The slope of the structure is usually within 45 degrees, but in underground rooms it is reduced to 30 degrees to facilitate the process of lifting the product upwards.

If difficulties arise with the calculations, you can find photos in open sources that contain typical drawings for calculating a staircase in the cellar or on the second floor. It doesn’t matter where the staircase leads in a private house, the principle of its calculation and installation is the same in all cases.

How to make the stairs to the basement correct and stable? Taking into account the height of the basement, calculate the approximate number of steps, for which the distance from the floors to the ceiling is divided by the height of one step. For example, with a basement height of 3 meters and a step of 0.2 meters, the result is 15 steps.

Then you need to find out the length of the base of the rise, for which the number of its steps is multiplied by the width of the step. For an example of the same parameters, it will be 4.5 meters. If the room is 5 meters long, then you can make a one-flight version of the stairs to the basement along the wall, since its base length is less than the size of the wall.

But in cases where space does not allow such a simple option, make the staircase from two flights and a small platform between them. It is also possible to arrange more complex type — spiral staircase to the basement with your own hands significantly saves space, but is inconvenient if you frequently move bulky things to the basement.

Construction of a concrete staircase

For the basement from brickwork, equipped on a solid foundation, the most convenient would be a staircase in ground floor made of concrete. It will last a long time without destruction, is resistant to moisture and stress.

A concrete structure can be made in two ways: monolithically with reinforcement of the structure, resting it on the floor, or with installed lower formwork, which will provide a small space under the steps. Both of these options can be made close to the wall, between the walls or in the middle of the room.

Construction will require: metal reinforcement, wire for strapping, concrete, crushed stone, water-impregnated plywood (18mm), boards (at least 30mm thick), polyethylene film, beams, screws, metal corners, level and screwdriver. If the design is carried out according to the option with formwork, then two additional metal channels (No. 8) and iron pipes for base strength.

Making the foundation

In the case where the floor in the basement - concrete screed of decent thickness, the foundation for the stairs to the basement is not made. It will be sufficient to check the evenness of the base with a level and eliminate defects when they are identified.

If the base is not reliable, the location of the staircase is marked on the floor for its subsequent strengthening. Removed upper layer floor by 0.5 meters, filled with crushed stone, compacted and filled with concrete mortar.

Frame assembly and formwork arrangement

As soon as the formwork is completed, a reinforcing frame is made. The rods are not welded together, but tied with wire. And for monolithic design they start from the bottom, moving upward. The bottom layer is the size of the base, the next one is shorter than the first by the width of the step, and so on until the very top. On the site between the floors, the reinforcement is laid in the form of a lattice.

Longitudinal reinforcement bars from a parallel layer of the lower formwork are fixed to the transverse reinforcement bars. Another additional reinforcing mesh 5*10*100 is laid on top of this structure, pieces of which are cut in place.

If the structure is adjacent to a wall on one side, then the ends of the reinforcement are driven into the wall for reliability. The finished frame completely follows the contour of the staircase, but is at least 3-5 cm smaller than the formwork on all surfaces. This scheme allows you to fill all elements with concrete, protecting them from corrosion.

To reinforce the option with lower installed formwork, metal channels or pipes are placed along the entire span, resting against the base on one side, and welded to the ceiling on the other.

At the corners, the reinforcement mesh is bent at the edges, which will give reliability to the anchoring. The reinforcement is firmly attached, since it will be regularly walked on and subjected to various loads. The formwork boards, which will bear the weight of the entire concrete structure, as well as pressure during operation.

Straight flights of stairs are distinguished by the same size of steps, but for other types of boards you will have to cut them at the place where they are inserted.

A wooden stencil is made according to the size of one step, with which plywood sheets are cut out. If necessary, you can combine several of these sheets into a shield, replacing plywood with boards, but the edge will also have to be cut according to a stencil. In the under-staircase space, boards made of boards with smooth edges are reinforced with bars at an angle of 30 degrees. Such beams are installed in half-meter increments to ensure stability of the formwork and concrete layer.

All connections and joints of the formwork are fixed with self-tapping screws, leaving no gaps or cracks through which leakage can occur. concrete mortar. To prevent the wood from absorbing water, all panels are wrapped in polyethylene film. The formwork is secured with racks and spacers, on which the boards are laid in place under the step.

Pouring concrete

The prepared formwork is poured with concrete at one time so that cracks do not occur during several stages. The concrete is carefully leveled so that the surface is smooth. It must be pierced periodically during pouring so that excess air can escape, leading to the formation of voids in the material.

Concrete is poured from the bottom up, moving along the edges of the wooden formwork. The mass is equal to a trowel. In the places where the railings will be, wooden plugs are inserted, and metal corners are pressed in at the edges. After a day, the formwork can be removed and the surfaces covered with film to ensure even drying.

It is best to periodically spray the concrete with water. Once the surface has hardened, it is finally leveled using a trowel.

Finishing

Railings on the stairs to the basement are optional, but most often they are installed to make movement safe and convenient. As a rule, they are made from metal corners or metal profile pipes with a small cross-section, connected by welding. Once the railing is installed, the steps are sanded and can then be finished with planks or tiles.

Metal staircase to the basement

A descent to the basement made of metal is lighter than a concrete version, and it is much easier to work with. Quick installation, however, does not negate the long service life, since its treatment with anti-corrosion solutions extends the service life even in damp basements.

When assembling and installing a metal descent structure, you need steel angles, metal channels, reinforcement rods, a welding machine, an angle grinder, a level, a concrete mixture and steel sheets. It is worth taking care of high-quality boards for steps. Iron stairs are made exclusively from high-quality materials.

Installing the base

Determined bottom base designs. Dig a hole 1 * 0.4 meters with a depth of 0.5 m. The dug space is filled with crushed stone, leaving 15 cm to the top, where the bases of the stairs are stuck. The entire structure is poured with concrete.

You can fill it halfway with crushed stone, and then make a frame from reinforcement, leaving 2 rods protruding on the sides of the pit 0.25 m above the surface. After this, everything is filled with concrete to the very top.

Installation of stairs

Metal channels are screwed to the top of the ceiling at a distance of the width of the stairs, say 90 cm. The lower ends are installed on the base, concreted and welded to the reinforcement. If there are two flights and a platform, then the platform is welded first. To do this, the channels are connected according to the square pattern, but indented on three sides. These offsets secure the platform to the basement walls, welding the channels on the sides for the march. Steps are made from the corners and attached by welding to the channels from the inside.

Final finishing

The entire structure is ground using a grinder and coated with anti-corrosion mixtures. All steps are sheathed with iron and metal, with railings welded on the sides.

Wooden staircase

Wooden stairs are only suitable for basements. Otherwise, such a design cannot be used for a long time. But even with optimal humidity wooden elements must be treated with antiseptics against mold.

To make this type you will need wooden beams, boards, a screwdriver, a plane, anchors or dowels, self-tapping screws, a jigsaw and sandpaper.

Manufacturing and installation of stringers

The step template is cut out from a piece of plywood or thin board. A template is applied to the side beam and traced, and this is repeated until the very end of the stringer. Using a jigsaw, cut off the excess according to the markings, and do the same with the second beam. All edges are rounded and carefully polished.

The staircase is one of the main elements of the basement design. Special requirements are placed on it: it must not only be durable, but also comfortable enough to climb and descend with a load. Therefore, a do-it-yourself staircase must be made in compliance with all safety rules. A correctly selected and securely fastened ladder will be used long years without requiring repair or replacement.

When building a basement, you need to think in advance about what building material the stairs will be made of. The complexity of manufacturing, financial costs, as well as the service life of the structure will depend on this.

The most popular materials are:

• Tree;
• Metal;
• Concrete.

Wood has a relatively low price, is easy to process, and installation of a wooden staircase does not take much time. If you treat the boards with a special antiseptic solution, the life of the structure will increase several times, since the wood will not be exposed to microorganisms.

A metal staircase can withstand heavy loads, and its service life is much longer than that of a wooden one. In the cellar you can install as finished staircase, and cook it yourself, after making it first. To avoid corrosion finished design need to be coated with primer or 3-4 layers oil paint or enamel.

Concrete stairs require considerable financial costs during manufacture, but their service life will be quite long. This design generally takes up a lot of space, so this option is not acceptable for small basements.

Why you need a bowstring for a staircase, as well as about its manufacture and installation, you will learn in our material:.

How to make a staircase to the cellar with your own hands from wood

In order for the design to be reliable and convenient, all the necessary calculations must be made correctly.

There are several points that must be taken into account when designing stairs. If this is not done, the stairs may turn out to be uncomfortable and it will not be safe to use.

Parameters to consider when designing:

1. Width. The optimal width of the staircase is a distance of 70-100 cm, but if the size of the cellar allows, then you can make a wider staircase.
2. Slope. It will be most convenient to go down the stairs, the slope of which does not exceed 45 degrees. It may take up more space than a structure with a steeper slope, but it will be much safer to go down.
3. Clearance. This term refers to the height from the steps to the ceiling. It should be at least 190 - 200 cm, so that even a tall person does not hit his head on the ceiling.
4. Height and width of the step. The width of the step can range from 25 to 30 centimeters, and the height should not be more than 22 centimeters.

After completing the calculations, you need to make a schematic drawing of the stairs, and then draw and cut the boards according to it. Next, you can begin assembling the structure.

You can also make an extension ladder from wood. This does not take much time and does not require any special calculations. You need to take two long boards and several crossbars and screw them to the boards with screws or nail them at regular intervals.

The disadvantage of the design is that such a ladder cannot be considered absolutely safe and it is strictly forbidden to go down it with a load.

Why is a metal staircase often installed in the cellar?

Basically, there is high humidity in basements, so wooden structures can quickly become unusable. Therefore, it is more advisable to equip the cellar with a metal or concrete staircase. Installation iron stairs, unlike concrete, does not take much time, especially if you use a ready-made frame. It can be installed in an already built cellar, while a concrete staircase is built simultaneously with the basement.

Advantages metal stairs:

Metal combines well with any building materials, so a brick or concrete basement can be equipped with a metal staircase.

What should be a comfortable staircase to the cellar?

The most ideal option for the cellar there will be a single-flight staircase with railings and a slight slope, which will be comfortable for even elderly people to descend.

Metal stairs should have grooved or hammer-coated treads. You can also attach an anti-slip rubber band to them.

Concrete steps can be completely covered with a non-slip rubber coating or laid with special tiles that do not slip even when high humidity.

All structural elements must be securely fastened. The heads of nails or screws are recessed deeply into the material so that they cannot accidentally get caught on them.

How to quickly make a staircase to the cellar with your own hands (video)

Making a staircase to the cellar with your own hands is not so difficult if you follow all the tips and recommendations for choosing building materials and making calculations. The service life and safety of the structure directly depends on the quality of installation, so everything must be done carefully and carefully.

Convenient staircase to the cellar (photo examples)

When building a house, attention to finishing the basement is usually given last. However, many have already appreciated undoubted advantages"minus the first" floor. In most cottages it has long ceased to be a gloomy, damp and cold room. That is why, in addition to methods of finishing floors and walls, many today are interested in how to make a staircase to the basement with their own hands.

The descent to the “minus first” floor can be beautiful

Features of the basement stairs

Aesthetics of a basement staircase - combined design

Today at country houses they equip an entire basement floor, where, in addition to the boiler room, a room for storing supplies and household preparations, a laundry room can be equipped, Gym, sauna and even a billiard room. Finished beautiful tiles or wood-clad walls create the impression of a full-fledged lived-in space, and the staircase to the basement matches overall design adds a certain charm to the atmosphere of the once gloomy room (in the top photo).

The situation with the stairs to the garage basement is somewhat different: here the beauty of the steps and railings is the last thing to think about, the most important thing is the reliability of the structure’s fastening and ensuring the most comfortable descent, since due to limited space the slope of the structure has to be made quite steep.

However, the equipment of the cellar in the garage also plays an important role: it can be used to store food supplies, as a pit for car repairs, and if it is possible to install light there, even a mini-workshop.

If the calculations are carried out correctly and competently, it is not difficult to make a device for descending into the basement, so many people prefer to install the structure with their own hands.

If space allows, even the stairs to the basement provide an opportunity to express designer fantasies: forged railings, graceful steps, easy descent will allow you to make it stylish detail interior (pictured on the right).

Types of stairs

Depending on the area of ​​the basement and personal preferences, the staircase to the cellar or basement can be:

• A simple one march is the most simple design, which almost anyone can install with their own hands (pictured below).

If the footage of the room is too small, it makes sense to think about a modern constructive solution– folding stairs to the basement. This lightweight design has 2 or 3 folds, and to secure it in the folded state, a cable is used, passed through the 3rd step from above. Such stairs to the basement are made with a hatch to which this cable is directly attached. To go down into the cellar, you need to lift the hatch cover, remove the rope, holding the structure tightly, and then carefully lower it to the floor. Such ladders are often used in garages, but handling them requires some skill.

Materials

The stairs to the basement can be made of the following materials: concrete, wood, metal (pictured). Stairs to a basement from a home are usually made of wood or metal, or a combination of metal frame and railings with wood trim. All designs of this kind are easy to make with your own hands. As for the stairs to the cellar or garage basement, the only thing possible variant for them - a metal frame, because decorative finishing with your own hands is impractical, and wood, due to high humidity and low temperatures will quickly become unusable. Above in the photo is a descent into the cellar with wooden steps: this is only possible if the garage is heated. You can make wooden treads if they are attached to metal frame and over time they can always be replaced.

Iron stairs will withstand the cold and dampness of the “dungeon”

It often happens that for some reason it is impossible to install a staircase to the ground floor inside the house. In this case, they usually build a staircase to the basement from the street. Optimal material in this case it will become concrete, and making the structure with your own hands will require certain skills.

How to do it?

The construction of such a staircase is carried out in several stages:

• Pour out the soil at a pre-calculated slope (to prevent the stairs from floating, it is necessary to withstand the embankment for at least several months);
• Calculation of the depth and height of steps;
• Marking steps on the wall using a marker;
• Waterproofing the soil with polyethylene;
• Reinforcement and frame formation;
• Formwork;
• Pouring the frame with concrete;
• Finishing and cladding.

It is also desirable that the street staircase to a closed basement be equipped with a canopy that protects from drafts and precipitation, and that the door be heavy and insulated, ensuring maximum tightness. The construction of such a structure can negatively affect thermal insulation, so entering the basement from the street is acceptable only for premises used for technical purposes.

Attention! When building an external concrete staircase with your own hands, it is advisable to make the top step above the level of the sidewalk: the resulting threshold will protect against water from entering the basement from the street.

Basement staircase: features of calculation and construction

If you can make a staircase to the cellar with your own hands quite quickly and literally from scrap materials (as in the photo below), then to go down to the basement inside the house you will have to try: an aesthetically well-designed design will be much more pleasing.

Regardless of what type of structure is chosen, the following nuances must be taken into account when calculating and installing the stairs:

1. When choosing materials for a staircase, you should be guided by the parameters of temperature and humidity in the basement: wood is not suitable for a cellar, and when constructing an external staircase with your own hands, metal will often have to be treated to prevent corrosion.
2. Width flight of stairs should not change - solely for safety reasons.
3. The optimal width of the march is 80-100 cm, but for screw structures and turning platforms - at least a meter.
4. The width of the platforms and flights must match!
5. The optimal length of the platform is 1.5 meters (less than two steps).
6. The most convenient number of steps in a flight is from 3 to 18, and it is advisable to install an odd number.
7. The permissible limits for the slope of the stairs are 26-45 degrees.
8. The most convenient step width is 20-25 cm.

Handrails are a must! The safest height for them is 90-100 cm, the width between the posts is 15 cm.

If possible, the stairs to the basement or cellar should be well protected from children, especially if they are metal and have a steep slope. It is advisable to fence it off with a securely closing door or a not too noticeable and heavy hatch. In addition to the design and

If you are thinking about communication with the basement and cannot install an internal one because there is too little space for such a structure, then make an external staircase from concrete. This perfect solution, if the ground floor is used as a warehouse or technical room and is not used very often.

Such a project helps reduce heat loss in the house, because there is no direct connection between living rooms and an unheated basement. The street staircase can be made wider and longer, since there are no strict restrictions on the dimensions present when designing internal models.

If an entrance is provided through a hatch, then it must be made at a slight angle to the wall of the house and must be equipped with doors that will prevent moisture from entering the basement and freezing of the room.

As a rule, for the construction of external stairs to the basement as building material concrete is used.

How to make a concrete staircase to the basement from the street with your own hands

Simple concrete staircase into the basement from the street can be done with your own hands. To do this, you first need to pour the soil in the form of a ramp, with a slope close to the slope flight of stairs. It is better for the earthen base to lie there through the winter, and only then can construction begin. During this time, the soil will settle and will not deform in the future. If work is carried out on fresh soil, then it must be covered in layers and thoroughly compacted.

Calculation of concrete stairs

We take the height of the step as 16 cm, and the depth as 30 cm. The number of steps can be determined by dividing the total height of the staircase by the height of the step. In this case, the topmost step can be made a few centimeters higher than the level of the yard. The threshold created in this way will serve as an additional barrier to rainwater.

Using a tape measure and a level, you need to mark the contours of future steps on the wall and select the soil in accordance with this drawing.

Next, you need to lay a hydraulic barrier made of polyethylene film. It is necessary so that the concrete does not draw moisture from the soil, and so that after pouring the concrete milk does not absorb into the soil, thereby reducing the strength of the solution.

An integral stage of manufacturing is reinforcement. To do this, we insert reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm into the wall. The longitudinal rods can be secured with thick wire, as shown in the photo, or welded. Thus, we have a rigid sheathing that will serve as a frame for basement stairs.

Next, the formwork for the concrete staircase is installed. For its production it is used edged board or waterproof plywood. All elements are firmly fastened with self-tapping screws. Supports in the form of pegs are installed on the sides, which are necessary to ensure that the structure does not fall apart while pouring the solution. Before concreting the stairs, make sure once again that there are no cracks or leaks in the formwork.

1. Side elements of formwork (curbs). If the product is installed between two walls, they are not needed;
2. Formwork boards;
3. Support pegs;
4. Board for making steps with a canopy;
5. Concrete base.

The boards are installed with a slight slope. Bottom edge the second step should be 1–2 cm lower than the top of the first step, otherwise concrete may leak out.

After the formwork is ready, the stairs are poured with concrete. The following composition is considered optimal:

• 10 parts cement;
• 30 pieces of crushed stone (10 - 20 mm);
• 20 parts sand;
• 7 parts water.

The solution must be mixed very thoroughly, otherwise its strength will be significantly lower. If the mixture is too thick, add more water. But do not make it too liquid to avoid leakage from the formwork.

Between pouring individual steps, you should take a short break of 1–2 minutes. Then the concrete will be able to withstand the pressure of the next steps. To ensure better adhesion of concrete to walls, it is necessary to wet them.

Remember to constantly compact the solution to prevent voids from forming. Finally, level the surface of the steps. Now you can cover the stairs with PET film, which is necessary for the concrete to acquire the necessary strength, and wait for the structure to dry.

Finishing concrete stairs

When the solution is completely dry, you can proceed to lining the steps of the concrete staircase. For exterior products, porcelain tiles are the best cladding material. It does not slip, is highly durable and not too expensive.

Video: DIY concrete staircase

In a private house with a basement, the staircase to the basement is important element, without which it is impossible to do. But in order for it to be convenient and fit into the building design, it is necessary to think through the main issues related to the manufacture of the product. This is the only way to make an estimate and correctly determine the location, configuration, dimensions and select materials.

Basement staircase design - what you should pay attention to

When designing a basement staircase, the following parameters must be taken into account:

• dimensions of the basement;
• possible dimensions of the staircase opening;
• how often you plan to use the product;
• is it expected to carry large items;
• where is the entrance to the stairs located: indoors or outdoors;
• safety and ease of movement on stairs;
• compliance with the interior of the room, if the entrance to the basement is inside the house;
• complexity of the design and the necessary financial costs.

What kind of staircase should I build to go down to the basement?

There are not many types of stairs for the basement, because, as a rule, they are subject to very stringent requirements related to the characteristics of such premises. Each design has its own advantages. By choosing the most important ones, you determine what kind of device the staircase will be.

Marching design

The easiest to manufacture are straight stairs. Making such a structure with your own hands is not difficult. However, there is not always enough space for them.

Thus, a simple calculation of the stairs to the basement shows that with a room height of 3 meters, 14 steps are needed, the height of which is 20 cm (the maximum permissible size considered comfortable). The last, 15th step coincides in level with the floor of the house and is not taken into account. With a tread depth of 25 cm, total length the structure will be 3.5 meters. That is, it can be installed in a basement with a length or width of at least 4 meters.

Staircase with intermediate landing
If you leave a straight march, the product will become even longer (due to the platform) and is unlikely to fit in the basement, therefore, use a U or L-shaped design. It is not so long, which makes it possible to install in small room. But it has a larger width due to the additional span, which is not always convenient.

To minimize the size of the basement stairs, use winder steps. Clearly visible in the photo.

Advantages of the design with a platform:

• Provides an opportunity to rest when carrying bulky items;
• Slight slope of the flight of stairs;

Flaws:

• a sufficiently large basement area is required.
• Difficulties may arise with the installation of the hatch required size or stairwell.

Spiral staircase to basement

The most compact is the spiral staircase to the basement, but at the same time it is the least convenient: the steps are high and very narrow, and it is very difficult to carry large things. Use is justified only in cases of acute shortage of space and provided that the structure will be used extremely rarely.

Choosing material

It is very important to choose the right material for the stairs. There are several criteria that will help you make the right decision:

• High humidity. Since the basement is often not heated, the room becomes increased level humidity. Difficult ventilation also plays a detrimental role.
• Entrance location. External staircase with entrance from the street will be exposed external environment, therefore, the main requirement for the material will be durability - resistance to chemical processes (corrosion, aging) and mechanical damage.
  In turn, the stairs to the basement leading to the first floor of the house will have completely different requirements:
  1. pleasant appearance;
  2. combination with the interior;

Wooden staircase to the basement

If your basement is used as a cellar and has a high percentage of humidity, it is not advisable to build a wooden staircase. Because wood will quickly become unusable due to dampness and fungus. A necessary processing will significantly increase its cost.

If there are no such problems and the room is residential or technical, then a wooden structure will become the best option to connect floors.

Concrete staircase to basement

The concrete staircase to the basement resists the destructive influences of the environment well and can be placed outdoors. However, it is bulky and creates excessive load on the walls of the house. That's why this option usually used not in residential buildings, but in the basements of garages and industrial facilities.

The most ideal option when making stairs to the basement is considered to be used as load-bearing elements metal profile beams. Their advantages include ease of installation, durability, moisture resistance and the ability to install them yourself.

Calculation of the stairs to the basement - a compromise of size and convenience

Let's calculate the stairs to the basement from the house L-shape, which is located along the walls, thereby saving space. This design makes it possible to effectively use the space under the march.

Let's assume that the depth of the basement is 3 m, the width of the stairs is 90 cm. With a step height of 17 cm, 18 steps must be made. That is, the stairs will have 2 flights of 8 steps each. The ninth and eighteenth steps will coincide with the landing and the floor of the house, respectively. Taking the tread depth to be 25 cm, we can calculate that the projection of the flights of stairs onto the floor is 2 m.

The drawing shows a staircase with two flights located at an angle of 90° to each other, and an intermediate platform, the width of which is equal to the width of the staircase and is 0.9 m.

Thus, the structure will occupy an area measuring 2.9x2.9 m. Considering that there should be space in front of the first step to enter the staircase, the dimensions of the basement should be no less than 3x3.5 m.

Opening in the basement for the stairs

The opening in the basement for the stairs should be such that a person moving along it will not hit his head on the ceiling. With each step, when rising from the basement, the distance to the ceiling will decrease by 17 cm. Having overcome 4 steps, it will decrease by 64 cm. If the thickness of the ceiling is 20 cm, then at the fourth step the distance to the ceiling is 2.15 m, which quite acceptable. At the fifth stage, this value already decreases to 1.98 m, and a tall person can hit his head. That is, only four steps can be under the ceiling. Their total length is 1 m.

In this case, the staircase opening should have a length of 1.9 m. Therefore, to arrange the opening you will need an area measuring 1.9 x 0.9 m. By increasing the height of the steps and reducing their depth, you can adjust the dimensions of the stairs and the opening, but at the same time the staircase itself will become smaller comfortable and safe.

DIY corner staircase made of metal

Having finished the design, choosing a place and material for the product, you can begin making a metal staircase to the basement with your own hands.

The foundation for the stairs is the basis of the product

To make a foundation for a staircase, you need to determine the place where its lower end will be located. Having done this, we dig a hole 80 cm deep, 40 cm long and slightly wider than the width of the stairs (in this case 1 m).

It is necessary to pour concrete into the recess so that its level is 15 cm below the edges of the pit. Then a reinforcing mesh made of rods with a diameter of 1.2 cm is placed in the solution. 2 anchors should protrude from the mesh to a height of 25 cm. The distance between the rods should match the width of the stairs. The hole is then filled with concrete to the brim.

For the manufacture of landing With your own hands you will need 3 channels 14 cm wide. They are welded together to form a U-shaped structure with a longer top bar (shown in the photo). The free ends of the channels are fixed into the walls. The fastening points are filled with concrete.

This design is quite strong and allows you to do without additional supports.

If the walls are being built from an insufficiently strong material, for example, shell rock, then in the places where the channels will be attached, even at the construction stage, it is necessary to leave holes and fill the space under them with more durable materials(in the photo this is a brick).

Do-it-yourself flight of stairs on metal stringers

To make a flight of stairs with our own hands we will need metal stringers, which we will make from a channel 14 cm wide, the length of which can be calculated using the Pythagorean theorem. For this case, 4 pieces of 2.5 meters are needed.

The lower ends of the channels are welded to the anchors protruding from the foundation, the upper ends - to the frame of the landing. The lower ends of the channels of the second flight are also welded to the frame of the landing, and the upper ends are attached to the ceiling (the floor of the first floor).

Bottom flight of stairs Upper flight

The steps are made according to the calculated dimensions from metal corner with a side of 5 cm and welded to the channels.

Welding seams are best performed with inside structures, since these places will be uneven. The excess ends of the corners must be trimmed, as shown in the photo.

The final stage is finishing the flight of stairs and steps with metal or wooden overlays, depending on the purpose of the room and the microclimate in the basement.