Stairs to the basement under the stairs. DIY staircase to the cellar made of metal. Types of basement stairs

Many modern country houses are equipped with a basement, which can also be put to good use. For example, it is very convenient to store building materials, rarely used property, as well as pickles and other edibles.

An example of pouring a concrete staircase to a basement

If the basement is a utility room and not a living space, then the staircase can be very simple, for example, a metal spiral one. If the room is not intended to be used too often, then in this case an ordinary metal attachment or is fixed.

It is important to draw and calculate correctly required dimensions opening. The most common mistake is that many owners make calculations based on 2 hatch flaps at once, despite the fact that one of them will almost always be closed in the future.

Most correct calculation is carried out taking into account each flap separately, and the optimal dimensions for each of them are 150x120 cm. Flaps are best made from wood material or chipboard. This is the right decision even if the stairs to the basement country house constructed of metal or concrete.

Assembling the metal frame of the stairs to the basement

TO this advice must be treated with utmost care, since these materials (even after insulation) will weigh much less than most analogues, and therefore will open with less effort.

Types of basement stairs

One of the most common options is a fixed ladder to the basement. Their design is based on metal beams, welded together and having a reliable fastening both to the basement floor and to the ceiling or floor top floor.
Building such a staircase is quite simple; you can do it yourself, but it must be taken into account that such a design necessarily requires a hatch.

Hatch design for basement stairs

An extension ladder made of wood is also possible, but if in basement there is no heating system to maintain favorable conditions temperature regime, then it is better to refuse such a ladder.

The fact is that wood, even processed by special means and antiseptics, is susceptible to a number of negative factors, for example, the appearance of fungi or mold, as well as too rapid wear. Spiral staircases are not very common, but are gradually beginning to gain popularity. When choosing this option It is mandatory to install a hatch that will completely hide the structure.

It is best to build such staircases in large and spacious rooms so that you do not have to skimp on their dimensions, since it is still inconvenient to go down to the basement along a narrow spiral staircase, especially considering the fact that the upper steps are usually quite steep.

Choosing a material for a basement staircase

Regardless of the type of staircase, it is necessary to select the appropriate material for its construction. As already noted, wood is a less preferred option due to too rapid wear and susceptibility to negative impacts. environment, which may cause unsafe operation of the structure as a whole.

However, this does not mean that the use of wood should be completely abandoned due to the fact that there is the possibility of combining materials. For example, when installing a metal staircase, you can cover the steps with wood, which will make the operation process more convenient and comfortable, since it will be impossible to slip on such a covering.

In general, structures made of metal differ much more high level reliability. There is also the possibility of constructing stairs using concrete.

Design option for a metal staircase to the basement

On the one hand, this, of course, will require additional effort and time, and the structure itself will be heavier. On the other hand, such a staircase will be of very high quality, reliable and durable if you follow all the rules of construction technology.
Let us consider in detail each material separately for the construction of stairs to the basement:

1. Metal is the most common material, quite often used for the construction staircase structures. It represents the optimal combination of quality, reliability and price. The metal is well processed and changes its shape - all individual elements and parts of the device can be cut or securely fastened together using welding machine. With proper care and compliance with operating rules, such stairs can last for decades.

   

   Drawing with dimensions of the basement stairs

   For the construction of a metal structure, it is allowed to use metal beams whose thickness is at least 1 cm, and for fastening to them individual parts You can use metal corners. In order for your staircase to fit well into the room, and at the same time to be comfortable and safe during its use, you must first make a drawing calculating all the dimensions. The minimum requirements are compliance with standards, according to which the length of each structural element should not be more than 100 cm. At the same time, the steps of the stairs are at least 26-28 cm wide and 15-20 cm high. These are the so-called average indicators that you need to focus on when designing the frame. However, taking into account individual characteristics buildings, for example, if the staircase is too steep, these values ​​​​will not be suitable; they will need to be adjusted, adjusting them to the requirements imposed by the characteristics of the room and the structure itself.

   

   Various options for installing a basement staircase

2. Concrete stairs, as noted above, are the most expensive, but at the same time the most durable and reliable structure. Like all similar structures, it requires the installation of formwork on initial stage construction work. All elements of such stairs, including steps, are cast individually and fixed on special supports in the form of columns, or represent a single monolithic device. Before pouring concrete, the structure must be additionally strengthened with reinforcement, which will prevent the coating from cracking or other types of deformation. When creating a drawing and carrying out calculations, it is necessary to take into account the same parameters as for wooden structure, but the width of the steps can be slightly increased at will. Concrete can also act as a combination material used to pour staircase steps.

   

   An example of a basement concrete staircase

   It must be remembered that this type of material, despite its strength, also needs additional protection– it should be coated with special coloring agents or tiled.

3. The main advantage of using wood as a combined material in the construction of basement stairs is the ease of processing. Using different saws, you can get any wooden part you need. A finished structure of this type must be coated with antifungal varnish and special antiseptics that reduce the consequences negative impact moisture and cold air.

It should be noted that the issue of choosing material for staircase construction must be taken as seriously as possible. Such important parameters as durability, price and complexity of construction will depend on it.

Design of a classic wooden staircase to the basement

It is important to remember that the ladder should not only be strong, but also comfortable. If you plan to use the basement as a cellar, then you need to take into account that you will most likely have to use it with busy hands and bulky objects in your hands, so the staircase must be both wide and at the same time ensure safe and easy descent and ascent along it .

When building a house, attention to finishing the basement is usually given last. However, many have already appreciated undoubted advantages"minus the first" floor. In most cottages it has long ceased to be a gloomy, damp and cold room. That is why, in addition to methods of finishing floors and walls, many today are interested in how to make a staircase to the basement with their own hands.

The descent to the “minus first” floor can be beautiful

Features of the basement stairs

Aesthetics of a basement staircase - combined design

Today at country houses equip the whole ground floor, where, in addition to the boiler room, a room for storing supplies and household preparations, a laundry room, Gym, sauna and even a billiard room. Finished beautiful tiles or wood-clad walls create the impression of a full-fledged lived-in space, and the staircase to the basement matches overall design adds a certain charm to the atmosphere of the once gloomy room (in the top photo).

The situation with the stairs to the garage basement is somewhat different: here the beauty of the steps and railings is the last thing to think about, the most important thing is the reliability of the structure’s fastening and ensuring the most comfortable descent, since due to limited space the slope of the structure has to be made quite steep.

However, the equipment of the cellar in the garage also plays an important role: it can be used to store food supplies, as a pit for car repairs, and if it is possible to install light there, even a mini-workshop.

If the calculations are carried out correctly and competently, it is not difficult to make a device for descending into the basement, so many people prefer to install the structure with their own hands.

If space allows, even a staircase to the basement gives you the opportunity to show your design imagination: forged railings, graceful steps, and easy descent will allow you to create it stylish detail interior (pictured on the right).

Types of stairs

Depending on the area of ​​the basement and personal preferences, the staircase to the cellar or basement can be:

• A simple one march is the most simple design, which almost anyone can install with their own hands (pictured below).

If the footage of the room is too small, it makes sense to think about a modern constructive solution– folding stairs to the basement. This lightweight design has 2 or 3 folds, and to secure it in the folded state, a cable is used, passed through the 3rd step from above. Such stairs to the basement are made with a hatch to which this cable is directly attached. To go down into the cellar, you need to lift the hatch cover, remove the rope, holding the structure tightly, and then carefully lower it to the floor. Such ladders are often used in garages, but handling them requires some skill.

Materials

The stairs to the basement can be made of the following materials: concrete, wood, metal (pictured). Stairs to the basement from a house are usually made of wood or metal, or a combination metal carcass and wood-trimmed railings. All designs of this kind are easy to make with your own hands. As for the stairs to the cellar or garage basement, the only thing possible variant for them - a metal frame, because decorative finishing with your own hands is impractical, and wood due to high humidity And low temperatures will quickly become unusable. Above in the photo is a descent into the cellar with wooden steps: this is only possible if the garage is heated. Wooden treads can be made if they are attached to a metal frame and can always be replaced over time.

Iron stairs will withstand the cold and dampness of the “dungeon”

It often happens that for some reason it is impossible to install a staircase to the ground floor inside the house. In this case, they usually build a staircase to the basement from the street. Optimal material in this case it will become concrete, and making the structure with your own hands will require certain skills.

How to do it?

The construction of such a staircase is carried out in several stages:

• Dumping the soil at a pre-calculated slope (to prevent the stairs from floating, it is necessary to withstand the embankment for at least several months);
• Calculation of the depth and height of steps;
• Marking steps on the wall using a marker;
• Waterproofing the soil with polyethylene;
• Reinforcement and frame formation;
• Formwork;
• Pouring the frame with concrete;
• Finishing and cladding.

It is also desirable that the street staircase to a closed basement be equipped with a canopy that protects from drafts and precipitation, and that the door be heavy and insulated, ensuring maximum tightness. The construction of such a structure can negatively affect thermal insulation, so entering the basement from the street is acceptable only for premises used for technical purposes.

Attention! When building an external concrete staircase with your own hands, it is advisable to make the top step above the level of the sidewalk: the resulting threshold will protect against water from entering the basement from the street.

Basement staircase: features of calculation and construction

If you can make a staircase to the cellar with your own hands quite quickly and literally from scrap materials (as in the photo below), then to go down to the basement inside the house you will have to try: an aesthetically well-designed design will be much more pleasing.

Regardless of what type of structure is chosen, the following nuances must be taken into account when calculating and installing the stairs:

1. When choosing materials for a staircase, you should be guided by the parameters of temperature and humidity in the basement: wood is not suitable for a cellar, and even metal when constructing external staircase You will have to frequently treat it with your own hands to prevent corrosion.
2. Width flight of stairs should not change - solely for safety reasons.
3. The optimal width of the march is 80-100 cm, but for screw structures and turning platforms - at least a meter.
4. The width of the platforms and flights must match!
5. The optimal length of the platform is 1.5 meters (less than two steps).
6. The most convenient number of steps in a flight is from 3 to 18, and it is advisable to install an odd number.
7. The permissible limits for the slope of the stairs are 26-45 degrees.
8. The most convenient step width is 20-25 cm.

Handrails are a must! The safest height for them is 90-100 cm, the width between the posts is 15 cm.

If possible, the stairs to the basement or cellar should be well protected from children, especially if they are metal and have a steep slope. It is advisable to fence it off with a securely closing door or a not too noticeable and heavy hatch. In addition to the design and

The cellar, comfortable for both descent and ascent, is technically simple. Such basement elements are small in size and do not require much labor. The main objective of the design is reliability and safety. What is the manufacturing technology, and how does the choice of material affect design features stairs, read this article.

Types of basement stairs

Design Features

1. Attached. This design is characterized by two points of support: the ceiling and the floor of the cellar. She takes limited area under the entrance hatch, which is favorable for small cellars in area.

It is recommended to securely fasten such a ladder both on the floor and at the top, near the hatch - the entrance to the basement. If it is located along one of the walls, there is the option of additional intermediate fastening to the wall on one side and installing handrails on the other. The angle of inclination of the stairs must correspond to maximum operational safety.

2. Marching. The most common option for cellars with large area. As a rule, such stairs consist of one flight. There can also be two-march ones, when the marches are located perpendicular or parallel to each other and are connected by a platform.

This design provides for a smaller angle of inclination to the cellar floor and the creation of optimal steps for placing a person’s foot. Depending on the location, railings are installed on one or both sides.

3. Screw. If it is not possible to construct the first 2 types, construct a vertical spiral staircase. It is placed in the center of the cellar with steps arranged in a circle around the central support post. Having won in rational use area of ​​the cellar, it is not very convenient to go down and up such stairs with a load in your hands due to cramped conditions.

Material used

1. Industrial wood. A material that can be easily processed and does not require special skills and knowledge. Any staircase can be made from this material: an extension, a marching staircase or a spiral staircase. Even if there is no home workshop for wood processing, there are various woodworking enterprises that will manufacture and process workpieces according to drawings.

At home, you only need to assemble the parts in finished design and its consolidation. The main disadvantage of wood is the need for protection from dampness, rotting and microorganisms. The service life of wooden stairs is inferior to concrete and metal ones.

2. Metal. The durability of metal products significantly exceeds wooden ones. That is why extension, marching and spiral staircases are often made from metal. Sometimes they are combined: the frame is made of metal, and the treads are made of wood. Frame - by welding from individual elements. For these jobs it is necessary to have appropriate welding skills.

Upon completion, all surfaces are treated with anti-corrosion compounds in at least 3 layers, after first cleaning them from traces of rust and cleaning the welding seams from slag. After the coating has completely dried, the wooden parts are installed and secured.

3. Concrete. One of the most labor-intensive processes in constructing a staircase to a cellar. It is done before the cellar is covered, which provides certain convenience in performing formwork, reinforcement and concrete work.

A concrete product without a reinforcement frame is fragile and fragile. Therefore, for the manufacture of concrete steps, it is recommended to install a reinforcement frame, which will give the concrete additional reliability during operation. And painting surfaces will give a more attractive look.

The period for full strength gain of concrete is 28 days. Before this period has expired, it is not recommended to treat the surface with any coatings, including paints.

Basic parameters of the stairs

The width of the stairs cannot be less than 70 cm, rational size– 90 cm. The width of the tread should range from 23 cm to 30 cm, thereby ensuring the normal position of the foot when lowering or ascending the gangway. The height of the step cannot be less than 15 cm. Optimal size height is considered to be 25 cm.

Traditionally, the angle of inclination to the floor surface is considered to be no more than 45 degrees (except spiral staircases). However, in practice the angle may be increased or ladders constructed. When arranging the angle of inclination, one must proceed from the convenience and safety of operation. The main condition is that the user’s leg must have support along the entire plane of the foot.

Stairs with more than three steps must be equipped with handrails to ensure safe movement along them.

Stages and nuances of staircase construction

The wooden staircase is made in 2 versions: simple attached or marching:

1. Simple option. On 2 bars of the same size with a thickness of at least 50 mm and a width of at least 100 mm, mark the location of future crossbars (no more than 30 cm between them), which act as steps.

After marking, cuts are made, a selection is made, and wooden crossbars made from 50x50 mm slats are secured. The slats can be fastened with both self-tapping screws and nails. The top and bottom of the stairs are sawed down so that the support is along the entire cut plane, which will provide additional stability.

The bowstring is a side element of the staircase, inside of which the steps are located. They are mounted in specially prepared grooves. Kosour – load-bearing element stairs, when the steps are located on top on a specially made comb to match the width of the steps.

The design of marching wooden stairs requires a special calculation of the number of steps, depending on the angle of inclination of the stairs and the height of the cellar from floor to ceiling. Such ladders are highly reliable and safe and are not afraid of mechanical loads.

The marching version of the staircase is installed along the wall, the side beam is attached to the wall, and handrails are installed on the free side for safety.

The upper part of the stringer or bowstring rests on the platform of the entrance to the cellar, the lower part - on the floor with mandatory fastening with anchor bolts.

For stairs, it is better to choose hardwood that has increased strength and wear resistance with mandatory treatment with antiseptics and special solutions against fungus and mold.

Metal stairs

An extension ladder is the most easy option manufacturing, structurally not much different from wood. You can use a round and profile pipe with a transverse device made of rolled metal: angle, fittings. The advantage of this design is ease of manufacture and multi-purpose use.

Completely different requirements and manufacturing technology for marching gear stationary structure. As side beams, a channel of at least No. 10, a profile pipe of 100x50 mm or an I-beam No. 12 are used. It must be understood that an I-beam has an undeniable advantage in rigidity, the level of which exceeds the profile pipe and channel.

From a corner of no less than 35x35 mm, parts for fastening steps of 2 standard sizes are made: for the width of the step and the height of the tread. Simple calculations of the number of steps are made, taking into account the angle of inclination of the entire structure, and 2 identical beams are constructed using welding. These works do not have to be done in the cellar, it is better in an open space.

Prefabricated structures are installed at the location required, observing the angle of inclination, horizontality of future steps and the distance between the beams. To impart sufficient rigidity to the structure, a corner is welded in the areas of the future plane of the steps, the beam structure is fixed to the floor and at the top, forming a rigid, stationary structure.

Wood can be used as steps, sheet metal, thickened reinforcement or concrete plates factory or own production. Each type of step requires reliable fastening: wooden - with bolts with sub-thaw, metal - by welding, concrete - with special anchors.

Upon completion of the frame assembly metal surfaces are cleaned of dirt, rust, slag deposits and coated with anti-corrosion compounds.

The presented video shows the technology for manufacturing a metal staircase to a cellar from a profile pipe by welding:

Concrete staircase for cellar

All technological process, which is carried out before the installation of the ceiling of the cellar, consists of several component stages: installation of formwork, production of a reinforcement frame, concreting. Let's look at them in more detail:

1. Installation of formwork. Formwork is the shape of a future staircase to hold concrete until it fully sets and gains strength. It is made from waterproof plywood (bottom) and boards (sides). To prevent the structure from sagging under the weight of reinforcement and concrete, the bottom is reinforced with racks made of wooden blocks and metal telescopic racks, adjustable in height.

The sides are fastened to the tread board using self-tapping screws. In addition, the sides are pulled together with wire to prevent the structure from “blowing” from the pressure of concrete. After it hardens, the wire remains in the structure of the steps.

2. Reinforcement cage. To make the frame, it is necessary to use reinforcement with a diameter of at least 12 mm. A mesh with a cell size of 100x100 mm is made from it both at the “bottom” and for each step separately. For the outer longitudinal guides that form the basis of the frame, it is preferable to use reinforcement with a diameter of 16 mm. The individual reinforcing elements are connected to each other using welding or binding wire.

The frame in the formwork must “lie” so that its concrete coverage is at least 25 mm both from below and from above. All welding joints are treated with an anti-corrosion agent before laying concrete.

For the subsequent installation of handrails, protruding edges of vertically installed reinforcement are provided at least 50 mm from the future surface of the step.

3. Laying concrete. The quality of the staircase design depends on the quality of its installation. The concrete must be well laid without sagging or internal cavities. It is better to create a structure in one array at a time.

Since the staircase structure is equal in size, it is necessary to prevent concrete from flowing out from the upper steps to the lower ones. To do this, before laying the concrete mixture, the connection of the lower step with the upper tread is “sealed” with freshly prepared sand mortar. This nuance will prevent concrete from flowing from top to bottom and forming “saggings”.

The concrete mixture must be laid in layers, starting from the bottom step. Compaction is best done using a surface vibrator. The top of the steps is leveled with a spatula or rule after compaction.

Strengthening of the “hardened” concrete mixture occurs within 28 days. Only after this is it recommended to dismantle the formwork and begin plastering or puttying work.

Concrete work is best carried out in the summer. Winter time requires additional costs for insulating the entire staircase structure to prevent freezing of water in the concrete solution.

The presented video shows an example of the installation of formwork, reinforcement cage and laying of concrete in a monolithic staircase structure:

Spiral staircase

Metal is used as a rod on which all steps are attached in a circle. round pipe. The support flanges of the fastening and the structure of the steps are welded to it.

The steps are made according to a special pattern from hardwood. A handrail must be installed along the steps to ensure safe descent and ascent.

Lack of experience in the construction of such structures is the main factor complicating self-production, since its construction requires clear mathematical calculations.

Safety basics when installing a cellar staircase

When using powered tools, you must use only serviceable tools: conductive cables, plugs, sockets and switches.

When working at height, you need to use durable ladders or stepladders with good fixation on the floor. The use of boxes, barrels and other improvised means for working at height is strictly prohibited.

In case of emergency situation which may cause injury, stop work immediately and take immediate corrective action to eliminate the cause.

Building a staircase to the basement yourself is not a difficult task (except for the screw one), but it requires careful study of the future design, appropriate calculations, and additional study of technology construction production. If you approach this process responsibly, the work will be done efficiently and will delight you for many years.

In order for a self-made staircase to the basement to be comfortable and last for decades, it is necessary to correctly make calculations and draw up a plan. But first you need to decide on the design and material.

The staircase leading to the basement, first of all, must be easy to use and reliable. Therefore, when choosing a design, you should take into account your skills in construction and design.

The design of the stairs to the basement is selected individually

The screw structure is the most complex, so a beginner should avoid this option. Only a professional can build it with his own hands. Otherwise, the product will be unstable and short-lived.

Plus, it may look no worse than those installed between floors

But the design of such a staircase is too complicated for beginners

The most simple option is a single-flight design. A marching staircase can only be installed if the length and width of the cellar is at least 4 m.

Though marching staircase and takes up more space, it is much more convenient to use than other options

If the basement of the house/garage is narrow and high, then a platform can be built in the central part of the span. If the entrance to the cellar is located from the street, the structure must be protected from weather conditions.

If you are looking for a compact and easy-to-assemble design, pay attention to modular stairs

You should also consider:

• how often will the basement be used?
• design;
• budget;
• possibility of lowering large objects;
• influence of external factors.

For a small wine cellar, this compact spiral staircase is also suitable

Material selection

The staircase can be built from different materials: wood, metal, concrete. The choice depends on budget, personal preferences, the design and size of the basement, as well as the skills of the craftsman. Stairs to the basement are:

• Wooden. The advantages of this material: lightness and accessibility. However, in order for a wood structure to last a long time, it must be protected with special compounds from insect pests, mold and mildew.

Wooden staircase also very aesthetic

In some cases it is appropriate to install a small platform and a second flight

• Metal. In order for the iron structure to last a long time, everything must be treated before installation. metal parts anti-corrosion compounds. Its installation is simple. It is best suited for the basement. The cost will be more expensive than wooden structure. After installation, it is recommended to cover with enamel/paint.

A metal staircase can have a relatively simple design

Or become a real decoration of the basement, thanks to the designer's imagination

• Concrete. TO positive aspects include: durability, reliability. When choosing concrete structure you need to be prepared for large financial costs. Please note that its construction will take quite a long time. Suitable only for large basements. Concrete stairs are recommended to be installed during the construction of the house/garage. As for wooden and metal structures, then they can be erected both at the construction stage and after repair and finishing work.

The process of constructing a concrete staircase is quite lengthy, but it will also last you longer than others.

Laying a concrete staircase to the basement during the construction of the house itself

Design

Any construction begins with the creation of sketches. When drawing up drawings of the stairs to the basement, you need to take into account the angle of permissible inclination. It is allowed to build at an angle of 45 degrees, but if conditions require, then you can deviate from the norms and make a steeper slope. The maximum number of steps on each flight is 18. Marches can be rotated relative to each other by 90/180 degrees.

Having a drawing of the future staircase in front of your eyes will allow you to identify some shortcomings even before construction begins

The width of the step should not be less than 0.7 m. The optimal width is 0.8-0.9 m. If the basement of the house is equipped for a sauna, billiard room or gym, the width of the span can be made larger for convenience. When designing, you should also take into account staircase clearance. If it is small, the slope needs to be steeper. This is necessary to ensure comfortable lifting. The width of the tread is 0.3 m, and the height of the riser is 0.2 m. In order to find out how many steps there will be, you need to measure the distance from the base of the basement to the ceiling. The resulting value is multiplied by the height of the step (riser). To find out what the length of the base of the structure is, you need to multiply the number of steps (previously calculated) by the width of the step (tread).

Approximate dimensions of the flight of stairs (may vary depending on the characteristics of the basement)

Concrete staircase manufacturing technology

There are two ways to build stairs to the basement. The first method involves making it yourself monolithic design with a mesh made of wire. The base of the structure must rest completely on the floor. The second method involves installing a lower auxiliary structure with your own hands, under which a niche is formed ( free space).

The process of making a concrete staircase is labor-intensive, but not as complicated as it might seem at first glance

To work you will need:

• level, fittings, fasteners (screws) and screwdriver;
• metal corners, film, wire;
• crushed stone and concrete mixture;
• moisture-resistant plywood (you should choose a sheet with a thickness of at least 18 mm);
• timber 100x100 mm and boards (their thickness should be at least 30 mm).

If the staircase has lower formwork, you will need iron pipes or two channels.

Construction of the foundation

It is needed if the foundation is not very reliable. To do this, dig a pit with your own hands, 0.5 m deep, and fill it with crushed stone. Then they fill it up concrete mixture.

Installation of lathing and formwork

After installing the formwork with your own hands, they proceed to assembling the frame.

Advice!Use tie wire.

When erecting a monolithic structure, first connect the first (bottom) row, the size of which should be equal to the size of the base. Next, the second layer is attached. It should be noted that the second row should be shorter by the height of the step. Then the grid is mounted on the intermediate platform. If the structure is adjacent to load-bearing wall, then the ends of the reinforcement are driven into it. The result is a frame that resembles the “silhouette” of a staircase to the basement of a house/garage, but is several centimeters smaller than the supporting structure over the entire surface. Manufacturing of monolithic concrete stairs If you are going to do the reinforcement with your own hands with the lower formwork, then metal channels/pipes are installed along the span. Their lower ends should rest against the base, and their upper ends against the ceiling. Then the edges of the reinforcement are bent. Next they begin to work with the boards. The template for one foot is made from wood. Then it is used to trim the edge of the plywood. For a structure with lower formwork, you should take the forms and attach them with timber (in the future it will need to be installed in increments of 0.5 m) at an angle of 30 degrees. The joints of the auxiliary structure are secured with self-tapping screws. To prevent the boards from absorbing moisture, the panels (forms) are covered with polyethylene and the formwork is secured.

Fill

Before pouring the frame with the created temporary structure, you need to prepare a solution.

Important!The entire structure must be poured at one time. Otherwise, cracks will appear.

In order for the steps to be as even as possible, during the pouring process they are leveled with a trowel. Then insert wooden blocks to the places where the railings will be attached. Filling is carried out from bottom to top. When the solution has set slightly, insert the corners along the edges of the steps. Pouring concrete stairs After 24 hours, the temporary form is dismantled. The structure is covered with polyethylene. Periodically it needs to be removed and the concrete moistened with water.

This is what a “raw” basement staircase looks like

After the concrete has completely dried, you can remove the formwork and think about finishing the stairs

Metal staircase

Before you start building a staircase to the basement with your own hands, you need to purchase:

• channels;
• crushed stone with cement mortar;
• anti-corrosion compounds.

In order for the stairs to the basement to be stable, it is necessary to make calculations and lay them out on paper .

Design options for a metal staircase to the basement

Based on the drawings, the channels are cut into segments required length. To create the frame of the steps, you need to weld the corners with cut pieces of channels. Next, all metal parts are treated with protective compounds. All that remains is to install the resulting structure. To do this, you should determine the location of the base under the stairs. A pit 0.5 m deep is dug in the selected area. Bottom part the structure is placed in a dug hole. They cover it with rubble. Then it is filled with concrete mixture.

The base of a metal staircase to the basement

Next you need to take a sheet of metal and cut steps from it. The resulting steps are welded to the frame of the structure. The structure is treated with anti-corrosion compounds. A DIY metal staircase to the basement of a house/garage will last for decades. Second option: making a metal staircase from pipes To do this, you will need pipes with a cross-section of 59-60 mm and crossbars with a diameter of 3 cm. Process: 1. Install pipes that will lead to the base of the basement. 2. Measure 20-25 cm from the upper end of the pipe and weld the steps (that is, solder the pipes to the crossbars). 3. Sanding machine remove all excesses/deficiencies. 4. The structure is processed protective composition. 5. Concrete.

Quite often, a profile pipe is chosen as the frame material

Wooden staircase Before you make a wooden staircase to the basement with your own hands, you need to decide whether heavy, large objects will be lifted/lowered.

Important! Before installing structures, you need to check the room for humidity. If humidity levels are high, you should consider a ventilation system.

As for wood, you shouldn’t skimp on it. . Otherwise, the steps will begin to creak and sag during descent/ascent.

Cracked wood will not add any attractiveness or durability to your staircase.

So, now about its technology. Making a wooden staircase to the basement of a house with your own hands is as follows: 1. First you need to create a support (this can be either stringers or a bowstring) on ​​which the structure will rest. 2. Creation of transverse ribs. They will mark the edges of the steps. 3. Attach the cross boards to the frame. The result should be steps. If the boards are too wide, the protruding parts should be filed down. The steps are installed from bottom to top. 4. The stairs to the basement of the house/garage are ready. All that remains is to paint it or varnish it. Wooden staircase to the basement from scratch (2 parts) Part No. 1 Part No. 2

For the basement you need to choose a simple staircase convenient design with reliable fastening. The best option is a straight single-flight, made of concrete or metal, as well as wood if the basement is dry. In order for a DIY basement staircase to serve for a long time, it is very important to correctly calculate its parameters and prepare a solid foundation.

The width of the stairs in a private house is usually 90 cm. For the basement, it can be slightly increased to make it more convenient to carry boxes of vegetables or bags of potatoes. The optimal tread width is 30 cm, the riser height is about 20 cm. The slope of a conventional staircase is most often 45 degrees, but in the basement it can be reduced to 30 degrees, which will make it easier to climb with heavy objects.

Knowing the height of the basement, you can calculate the approximate number of steps. To do this, the distance from floor to ceiling is divided by the height of the riser. For example, if the height of the basement is 3 m, then dividing it by 20 cm gives the number of steps - 15. Now you need to find out the length of the base of the stairs: the number of steps is multiplied by the width of the tread.

IN in this example this will be 4.5 m. If the room is at least 5 meters long, you can safely install a single-flight staircase along the wall. Of course, not every basement has such dimensions, therefore, if the distance from the entrance to the wall is less than 5 m, the staircase should consist of two flights and a landing in the middle.

In the basement with strong brick walls and a solid foundation will be the most convenient concrete staircase. It is durable, not afraid of dampness, and does not become loose under loads.

There are 2 options for constructing concrete stairs.

1. The first involves the implementation of a monolithic reinforced structure, the base of which rests entirely on the floor.
2. The second option is to install lower formwork, which provides free space under the stairs.

In this case, both options can be performed close to the wall, between two walls or in the middle of the room.

For construction you will need:

• fittings;
• knitting wire;
• crushed stone;
• concrete mixture;
• waterproof plywood 18 mm thick;
• boards 30 mm thick;
• polyethylene film;
• timber 100x100 mm;
• self-tapping screws;
• screwdriver;
• metal corners;
• level.

If the structure has lower formwork, you will additionally need 2 No. 8 metal channels or iron pipes to strengthen the base.

Step 1. Making the foundation

If the floor in the basement is concrete screed large thickness, there is no need to make a foundation for the stairs; it is enough to check the base with a level and eliminate defects. When the base is not very reliable, an area adjacent to the structure is marked on the floor to strengthen the floor. Filming upper layer to a depth of 50 cm, covered with crushed stone, compacted and poured with concrete mixture on top.

Step 2. Assembling the reinforcing frame and installing the formwork

When the installation of the formwork is completed, the reinforcement cage is installed. It is not recommended to weld rods together; it is better to use binding wire. For a monolithic structure, first knit the bottom layer according to the size of the base, then attach the second one, which is shorter than the first by the width of the tread, and so on until the top. On the intermediate platform, the reinforcement is laid in the form of a horizontal grid.

If one side of the staircase is adjacent to the wall, the ends of the reinforcing bars are driven into the wall for tying. The finished frame should follow the contours of the stairs, but be 3-5 cm smaller than the formwork over the entire surface. This will completely cover metal elements concrete and protect them from corrosion. When reinforcing a structure with lower formwork, metal channels or pipes are installed along the entire span, the lower ends of which rest against the base, and the upper ends are welded to the ceiling.

A stencil is cut out of wood according to the size of one step and with its help the edge of a sheet of plywood is trimmed. If necessary, connect 2 or 3 sheets and attach them to the frame. Instead of plywood, you can take ordinary boards and knock them into a shield, the edge of which also needs to be cut according to a stencil. For a structure with an under-staircase space, take boards from boards with smooth edges and reinforce them with timber at an angle of 30 degrees. Beams must be installed every half meter so that the formwork can support the weight of the concrete.

At the joints, the formwork is secured with self-tapping screws, trying not to leave a single gap through which the solution can flow out. To prevent the boards from absorbing water from the solution, the boards must be upholstered plastic film. The formwork is secured with posts and beams and spacers, and then boards are secured in place of the risers.

Step 3. Filling the stairs

The finished formwork with frame is poured with concrete mixture. It must be prepared in such a way that the entire structure is poured at once, otherwise cracks may appear. When pouring the steps, the concrete is carefully leveled with a trowel so that the surface is as even as possible.

Wooden plugs are inserted into the places where the railings are attached. When the solution has hardened a little, metal corners are pressed along the edges of the steps. After a day, the formwork is removed, and the surface of the stairs is covered with film for more uniform drying. Concrete must be moistened with water periodically.

Step 4: Finishing

On basement stairs ah the railings are not mandatory element, but sometimes they are attached for safety and convenience. Most often they are made from metal corners or profile pipes small section, connecting by welding. After installing the railings, the steps are sanded; if desired, they can be faced with tiles or treated boards.

Video - Do-it-yourself staircase to the basement

Installation of metal stairs

A metal basement staircase is lighter than a concrete one and can be installed much faster. To extend its service life, it is treated with anti-corrosion compounds, because basements are usually characterized by high air humidity.

To assemble and install a metal staircase you will need:

• steel channels No. 10;
• reinforcing bars;
• steel corners 50x50 mm;
• welding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• building level;
• concrete mixture;
• sheet steel or boards for steps.

Step 1. Preparing the base

First, determine the location of the lower end of the structure. In this area, a hole of 100x40 cm and a depth of 50 cm is dug. The hole is filled with crushed stone and filled with concrete, not reaching the top 15 cm. The ends of the stairs will be installed in the resulting recess and filled with concrete.

You can do it this way: fill the hole halfway with crushed stone, install a frame of reinforcement with a cross-section of 1.2 cm on top. 2 rods should protrude from the sides of the hole 25 cm above the floor level. After this, the base is poured concrete mortar to the top.

Step 2. Installation of the stairs

2 channels are bolted to the upper ceiling at a distance of 90 cm. The lower ends are installed on the base, then concreted or welded to reinforcing rods. If the staircase consists of 2 flights and a landing, first cook the landing. To do this, connect the channel sections into a square, but leave protruding edges on three sides.

Using these protrusions, the platform is secured to the basement walls, and then channels for marches are welded on both sides. I form steps from the corners, welding them to the channels from the inside.

Step 3. Final finishing

The finished structure is ground with a grinder and coated anti-corrosion primer. The steps are sheathed with sheet iron or boards, and railings are welded to the side. At this point, the installation of the metal staircase is considered complete.

Video - How to calculate and build a staircase

Making a staircase from wood

It is advisable to install a wooden staircase only in a dry basement, otherwise such a structure will not last long. But even in a room with normal humidity everything wooden surfaces It is recommended to treat with an antiseptic solution against mold.

During the installation process you will need:

• wooden beams for stringers;
• boards 250x38mm;
• screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws;
• anchor dowels;
• jigsaw;
• plane;
• sanding machine or sandpaper.

Step 1. Manufacturing and installation of stringers

A step template is cut out of a thin board or piece of plywood. A template is applied to the side of the beam and traced with a pencil, then everything is repeated until the end of the stringer. Using a jigsaw, cut off all excess along the marking line, then process the second beam in the same way. The cut edges are slightly rounded with a plane, and then carefully sanded.

The finished stringers are installed at the desired angle so that the distance between them is equal to the width of the stairs. The ends of the stringers are screwed to the upper ceiling using bolts and anchor dowels. To fix the lower ends, take pieces of metal corners, drill holes in them on both sides, and then bolt them to the wood and to the floor. You can concrete 2 steel rods with a cross section of 12 mm at the foot of the stairs and put stringers on them.

Step 2. Making steps

For steps, boards are sawn into equal parts, the cuts are processed with a planer, and sanded on all sides. Then vertical elements - risers - are made in the same way. It is very important that all parts are the same size, which will avoid distortions of the span. If the staircase consists of two flights, in addition to the steps, you need to make an intermediate platform. The boards for the site are fitted very tightly, secured at the bottom in several places with bars.

Step 3. Assembling the structure

First, screw the ends of the stringers to the site with long bolts. Next, the lowest step is mounted: the riser is screwed in with self-tapping screws, and the board for the step is laid on top of it and secured. It is imperative to check the location of the tread relative to the horizontal. This is how the steps are installed to the very top.

For the railing, take a beam of 80x60 mm, cut it into pieces of 1 m, each section is polished or processed on a milling machine. The resulting racks are nailed at each step or every other step, and connected along the top with a wooden handrail. Finally, the entire structure is primed and covered with protective varnish or paint.