Technologies do not stand still. Humanity is constantly moving forward in its own development, inventing new or improving outdated technical developments, trying to simplify as much as possible or, in modern terms, “roboticize” work processes.

Who would have thought that in the 21st century there would be an alternative to even an ordinary shovel in the form of a motor drill.

Or, as it is often called, a gas drill is technical device, which allows you to drill holes without exerting significant effort required sizes. It's more modern replacement a shovel, thanks to which you can easily dig holes and perform various other work related to drilling soil or ice. Before you start using a motor drill, you should familiarize yourself with the features of its operation.

What position should the operator be in when working with a gas drill?

Effective operation of a motor drill can only be achieved if the operator takes correct position when using it. So, a person using a gas drill should firmly grasp the handle and bend his arms and legs slightly. At the same time, you should not strain them too much.

What could be the danger of using a motor drill at the beginning of work?

In case it is used earth drill, if there is a risk of backlash due to the device’s auger hitting a solid obstacle. To protect yourself from this type of reaction and reduce the risk of injury, you should carefully monitor the operation of the equipment and be prepared for such situations.

How to properly pull the cord from the starter?

It must be said right away that the cord does not need to be pulled out completely, because it may simply come off. Carefulness when pulling the starter cord is the main criterion that should be followed. Also, there is no need to suddenly release it and allow it to hit the motor drill.

How realistic is it and is it even possible to drill a hole equal to the entire length of the auger in one approach?

There's no point in doing this. It is worth understanding that the weight of the auger is quite large and when performing such an operation with its complete immersion, a situation may arise when you simply cannot lift it to the surface. You need to drill slowly, gradually immersing the auger into the soil, the depth should be approximately 30 cm, after which you need to lift it slightly to get rid of the earth accumulated on the auger. To eliminate the risk of injury, the entire auger should never be removed from the ground.

We tried to give answers only to the simplest and current issues, which can occur to anyone who wants to work with a gas drill. It should be noted that the market offers not only professional devices, but also household models that are optimally suited for use in private households. Owners of such motor drills should be sure to read the detailed instructions on their use, because many of them will be beginners in this matter.

Working with a motor drill using the example of HITACHI DA300E

A motor drill for support posts is a more effective alternative to its mechanical counterpart. Thanks to the presence of a drive and gearbox, which is responsible for transmitting torque to the cutting edge, electric tool This type makes it much faster to prepare holes in the ground for installing poles.

Overview of existing varieties

The market offers several types of drilling equipment, the difference between which lies in the principle of operation:

• mechanical;
• electrical;
• gasoline;
• hydraulic;
• mounted

Of the above options, the last drill requires the use of special equipment. equipment (for example, a tractor). The remaining models are operated manually, but with varying degrees of efficiency. Motorized versions are among the most popular. Moreover, a gas drill is the most popular tool in this group. The electric counterpart is slightly inferior to it.

The gasoline drill is driven by a two-, three-, or four-stroke drive. The first option is lighter, has relatively small dimensions and can be used at home. The 3-4-stroke analogue is a large unit that requires 2 people to operate. Gasoline drill in this option It is distinguished by high power, but its productivity is also much higher.

The considered versions have another difference - the type of gearbox. In particular, light drilling equipment is usually equipped with a coaxial gearbox; for heavy analogues, a worm gearbox is provided.

Depending on the design features gasoline drill can prepare holes with a depth of 2 to 5 m. Powerful versions are capable of drilling holes in soils of different structures: rocky, sandy and high-density soil.

Motor drill, which provides Electrical engine, is similar in design to the analogue discussed above, with the only exception being the type of drive mechanism. The basis of the device of a power tool is asynchronous motor with a squirrel cage type rotor. An undoubted plus that sets apart electric drill from a number of similar techniques, lies in the absence of a noise effect.

Gasoline devices are characterized by high power, which allows them to be used in difficult conditions and with large volumes of work.

All motorized household devices in terms of power level and, accordingly, performance, they produce similar results. However, a motor drill with a professional-class electric motor is noticeably inferior to the gasoline version. One of the main disadvantages of power tools is the need for mains power.

The advantages of electric drills include their noiselessness, since, unlike a gasoline engine, the electric drive is practically inaudible.

Depending on the power level, a motor drill is used to solve different problems:

• construction of fences (holes for posts);
• arrangement of a pile-type foundation;
• Creation outbuildings, technical holes intended purpose(laying communications);
• planting a vegetable garden (preparing holes for seedlings and plantings);
• arrangement of communication lines, street lighting systems and installation of support posts for power lines;
• construction of bridges, tunnels;
• geological research work.

Hydraulic equipment is a manual unit, but for industrial purposes, since a motor drill of this type works well in the construction of large-scale projects.

Key selection parameters

The main ones are two criteria, without which it is problematic to select a tool for earthworks any type (gasoline, electric drill, etc.):

1. Diameter of cutting blades/auger. This parameter should exceed the hole in the ground by 5 mm. The smaller the diameter, the correspondingly smaller the hole will be. This means that a motor drill should be purchased only after it has been decided what parameters characterize the object being built.
2. The depth of the tool, which corresponds to the installation depth of the pillars. The simplest drill has a limited length of the support rod. To increase its height, additional rods and elements for their fastening must be included in the package. The more parts included in the kit, the more expensive the drill will cost.

These criteria apply to any type of excavation tool. But there is also individual characteristics, which should be considered before purchasing a motor drill.

These include electrical parameters of the equipment: power, operating speed and number of modes. It should also be taken into account design features: engine type (gasoline, electric), its characteristics.

Choose a motor drill with an easy start system and shock absorption system. This will ensure comfort in work, as there will be no problems when starting in the cool season.

Another factor influencing the choice of such a tool is the soil structure. A more productive motor drill is suitable for any soil. And used in living conditions lightweight units are not able to cope with rocky and dense soil. Today, it is a common practice to use rented equipment, including a motor drill.

When choosing in such conditions, you must also rely on the volume of future work that is planned to be completed in one day, taking into account the rather impressive payment for this service.

Review of manufacturers, pricing question

Many countries are engaged in the production of such equipment: Italy, Japan, Germany, Sweden, China, Russia, as well as the USA. The choice of manufacturers is, accordingly, very wide: ADA, Carver, ECHO, Champion, Hitachi, Elitech, PATRIOT, Stihl, Caliber, etc.

STIHL (Russia). The devices are economical, practical and durable. Some models have a safety locking system. average cost– 15,000 rubles.

To navigate this diversity, you need to take into account not only the basic parameters of the motor drill, but also the quality of the equipment. You can ask your friends and try to find excerpts about the products you are interested in.

Some brands are known more than others due to the long-term existence of the manufacturer and the reliability of the tool: Hitachi, Stihl, ECHO, EFCO. Also, the electric tool Bison, Tornado and Fiskars Quikdrill have proven themselves well.

EFCO (Italy). Products are characterized increased strength, suitable for frequent use. The average price level is 29,000 rubles

You can purchase a high-quality product with average characteristics (blade diameter 20-30 cm, power 1.8-2.4 W) at a price of 9,000 to 16,000 rubles. A more productive gasoline drill will cost more (about 20,000 rubles).

The electric analogue costs a little more: on average from 15,000 to 40,000 rubles. Any mechanical analogue will cost significantly less (RUB 2,000-8,000). The most expensive equipment in this category is considered to be a hydraulic tool. It is offered at an average price of 30,000-35,000 rubles.

Nuances of operation

To connect an electric drill, you need an output to a three-phase power source. The gasoline analogue is operated without such restrictions, but it is important to ensure a sufficient amount of fuel. Typically, such units require a mixture of 92 gasoline and oil. During operation, it is necessary to monitor the fuel level in order to avoid running “idle”, which will affect the duration of operation.

The drill must be positioned strictly vertically; if deviations occur, it is removed. The engine drives the mechanism, and the gearbox transmits torque to the cutting edge. Typically, a motorized tool is equipped with an auger blade.

It is important to control the level of the edge, as dullness cutting edge leads to a decrease in unit performance. And this, in turn, is the main reason for the failure of such components as the clutch and gearbox. As a result, the electric or gasoline drill will not function. Power tools should only be stored in a dry place.

Unlike its mechanical counterpart, a motor drill can be equipped with a reverse function, which allows you to change the direction of rotation of the blades in the other direction. This is usually required when the unit has stalled.

Buying a motor drill gives you more opportunities: more fast work, the ability to cover a large area, the ability of this type of tool to drill difficult soils.

However, the cost of such equipment is quite high (9,000-40,000 rubles), so it is not always advisable to purchase a gasoline or electric version of the unit, since the return on investment in this case will be low.

Budget models

Equipment for intensive use on personal construction sites

Maxcut MC 62 in operation:

Professional equipment

My choice

DDE GD-52-200.

ADA Ground Drill-5.

Stihl BT 131

FAQ

It is forbidden:

Can:

(1 ratings, average: 5,00 out of 5)

Motor drills: review of 6 models for “ideal” holes

A motor drill (or gas drill) is a manual, autonomous auger drilling equipment. Designed for drilling holes in the ground or ice. Allows you to save time during mass preparation of wells for installation fence posts, laying the foundation, planting seedlings. In addition, the device is in demand in winter fishing conditions and in the process of scientific research activities.

The equipment differs in technical characteristics, layout of components and controls, and frame design. Thanks to this, even within the same class, you can choose the most convenient device.

Attempts by a sales consultant to clearly classify this tool by the type of surface being processed reveal incompetence and a desire to manipulate the buyer. There are some differences between the “ground” and “ice” models, but they are not as fundamental and significant as the difference in the augers and knives. In addition, the necessary equipment can be selected for any equipment.

Budget models

Inexpensive and maintainable equipment. Insufficiently convenient, powerful and reliable for large volumes of work, it will become ideal option for garden maintenance and garden territory own home; useful for winter fishing. The experience of independently setting up and operating a simple gas drill makes its use profitable and allows you to avoid mistakes when working with more powerful devices.

1. DDE GD-52-200 – from 7,426 rubles

Equipment based on a 2-stroke motor, with a prefabricated frame with handles for one operator.

Price and simplicity make the GD-52-200 popular among summer residents and ice fishing enthusiasts. Spare parts are sold everywhere, and new ones are always more reliable than those that were originally installed.

Flimsy plastic; vibration; partially hardened gear shaft; backlash in the starter coil fastening, due to which the cord is poorly wound and the flat spring can pop out. And these are not all the shortcomings that users are willing to put up with due to the favorable cost.

Keep in mind that the DDE GD-52-200 marking may contain devices that differ in the output characteristics of the gearbox. The seller may point out that 350 rpm is for drilling ice, and 300 is for soil. In fact, these values ​​are unimportant. Because the difference between them is small, and the manufacturer announced only restrictions on the diameter of the screw.

Video review of DDE GD-52-200 from the dealer:

2. Carver ag 52000 – from 8,040 rubles

A tool with a 2-stroke internal combustion engine and a coaxial spur gearbox, on a collapsible frame. Designed for one operator.

The advantages here are the price, a repairable engine and a universal gearbox shaft. He round sectionØ 20 mm – any equipment with a round mounting hole is suitable. There is convenient access to the control hole of the gearbox.

Other declared advantages require serious improvements: the “light and fast” starter has a weak spring; there is a minimum of lubrication in the “productive” gearbox; vibration is noticeably transmitted to the “ergonomic” handles; The fastening of the assembled frame to the gearbox becomes loose. We often saw broken plastic elements.

Please note: no matter what anyone claims, a starter cord that stops coiling during the warranty period is a warranty case. And only replacing the spring permanently restores the functionality of the unit.

Video review of Carver ag 52000 from the user:

Equipment for intensive use on personal construction sites

The capabilities of equipment from this category allow you to equip the site and leave the tool on the farm; or sell at a profit upon completion of construction; or even cost-effective to rent out. The budget and expensive options presented below are characterized by decent build quality and reliability of power units.

3. ADA Ground Drill-5 – from 8,790 rubles

A gas drill based on a 2-stroke motor installed together with a spur gearbox on the platform of a prefabricated frame. For one operator.

11 kg assembled with auger and a reliable engine with a real 2.5 hp allow you to work without long breaks, including on loam. The open frame provides easy access to all elements of the device - for convenient maintenance. The balanced layout of power units reduces vibration levels, so carburetor settings are less likely to be lost and it is easier to work with a standard 200 mm auger.

Please note that the hole of a 20 mm gearbox shaft is 7 mm, and the most common keys start with 8.

ADA Ground Drill-5 operation on unplowed black soil:

4. Maxcut MC 62 – from 9,090 rubles

Unit with 3.6-horsepower 2-stroke engine. Built on a prefabricated frame. Can be used with a Ø 300mm auger.

The injection system is adjusted at the factory and if an aslo-gasoline mixture is used in the recommended proportion of 1:32, then no additional adjustment will be required during seasonal operation of the tool. A reliable gearbox with a Ø20 mm shaft is installed. The trigger is convenient for joint and independent work. Free access to the gearbox filler hole.

The weak point of the tool is the ignition key. I advise you to replace the “native” Maxcut MC 62 button with a more durable and sealed version. Or, before starting work, make sure that the ignition button wires are securely fixed. Because poor contact on flimsy terminals can cause problems with starting and stopping the engine.

Maxcut MC 62 in operation:

Professional equipment

The tool is expensive in all respects - in cost, in operation, in maintenance, in repair. But the profit it brings in intensive use, confidently covers all expenses.

5. Hitachi da 200e – from 20,300 rubles

Tool for one operator. Assembled on the basis of a 1.6-horsepower engine, mounted on a welded frame.

Weighs 8 kg, rotates a Ø 150 mm auger, demanding quality fuel mixture. The open frame provides easy access to the filler holes of the gearbox and gas tank, and to the air filter cover.

Of the minuses - high price tools and equipment. Options with screws from other manufacturers are not always acceptable: inexpensive ones will have to be modified in order to be fixed on the Hitachi inch shaft, and those that should fit without modification are more expensive than the original ones.

Please note: just a couple of years ago you could find on sale Hitachi petrol ice drills with a coaxial gearbox of “left” rotation. Today, “ground” tools, the auger of which rotates clockwise, are ubiquitous. But outwardly they are the same and are not equipped with augers.

work on the ground Hitachi da 200e:

6. ADA GrourdDrill 12 – from 33,990 rubles

Gasoline drill with a 4-stroke 5.5 hp engine, mounted on a prefabricated frame, requires 2 operators to operate.

Does not require preparation of the fuel mixture. After running-in, the service interval is 100 hours. The balanced design evenly distributes 23.5 kg of weight on each pair of handles, so it lowers without external efforts, and lifting it is not very difficult. The maximum permissible auger is Ø 400 mm, complete Ø 300 mm, torque on the gearbox shaft is 150 Nm.

The downside is that a fueled 4-stroke internal combustion engine cannot be turned over.

Keep in mind that the gear shaft here is 22 mm. And, in order not to complicate the work with backlashes of inch augers, it is best to use “original” equipment.

example of ADA GourdDrill 12 operation:

My choice

I am confident that each tool is good in its place. For light one-time work, simple and repairable is acceptable DDE GD-52-200.

From the standpoint of a self-builder, it is difficult to find a device with a better ratio of reliability and cost than ADA Ground Drill-5.

And the original approach to operator safety, embodied in the design Stihl BT 131, makes even experienced professionals believe that this is precisely the element that other professional models lack.

FAQ

1. I want to buy an inexpensive Chinese motor auger and adapt to it a proven auger from a regular Soviet manual ice auger. How realistic is this idea?

The idea is not new and is quite feasible. However, it did not become widespread - upon detailed study it turns out that:

• It is impossible to drill because the gearbox shaft rotates clockwise, and the vast majority of old ice drills rotate counterclockwise;
• There is a high probability of breaking an unsuitable drill. The speed of the auger pipe wall thickness for gasoline equipment is no less than 5 mm, and for manual equipment no more than 3 mm.

2. Which one? maximum depth Can I drill with a hand motor drill?

The appropriate maximum is the one with which you are comfortable working. Based on these considerations, the standard length of the soil auger is 800 mm, the extension is 500 mm.

There are no theoretical limits, although the limit mentioned by some manufacturers is 3 meters. But removing even a 2-meter structure from the auger and extensions, each time after drilling by 15-20 cm, is difficult even for a physically strong operator. In addition, we cannot exclude the possibility of the drill jamming and the pin breaking at a depth from where the auger can only be dug out.

3. What can and cannot be done to prevent breakage of the pins holding the auger to the shaft?

It is forbidden:

• Use hardened elements instead of the “raw” ones intended for this purpose - because a sharp increase in load, which breaks the pin, will look for a weak point in the gearbox.
• Operate not at full throttle - in this mode you can only run in engines with air cooled. Constant operation “at half throttle” leads to clogging of the exhaust system and loss of engine power.

Can:

• Use an adapter with a damper spring - in those fractions of a second that the spring works to unwind, the operator has time to release the gas.

4. What are the differences between gas drills for soil and ice?

The real difference is only in the augers. All the seller's stories about the advantages of a design with “anti-freeze” controls or a primer that pumps fuel into the float chamber to make it easier to start the engine in the cold - marketing ploy, based on putting natural things in the right light.

The power auger will do its job underground, but an important part of the drilling job—making sure the operator and bystanders are not in danger—begins before the power auger touches the ground. This article is needed primarily so that, having rented a tool, you would remain in good health and return the equipment to in good condition and without traces of blood :)

During construction and repair work Tasks may arise related to the movement of goods around a room or territory and require the use of special equipment. The stacker rental section presents models of stackers for rent, as well as prices and rental conditions.

It may seem obvious, but safety is paramount to avoid injury, some of which can be serious. Drilling is fraught with dangers, and while manufacturers strive to produce tools that are as safe as possible, it is a good idea to learn operating standards and stay up to date with manufacturers' recommendations to keep yourself and others safe.

Sometimes it's easier to call

Knowing the area where work is being done is the first, or even zero, step before drilling begins. Danger may lurk just a few tens of centimeters below the surface, where communications may be laid. If you hit them, problems are guaranteed; this can result in monetary losses or, in the worst case, serious injuries. The most dangerous options are to touch a power line or gas pipeline, in which case you can get an electric shock, fire, burns and other troubles, even fatal. If you have the slightest doubt, it is better to call local networks and find out if this or that type of communications passes through your area. Once you have verified that there is no potential threat or have marked areas that cannot be drilled, you can begin drilling.

Before starting work, check yourself and the gas drill

1. To protect himself, the operator must wear protective equipment and follow the simplest dress code when working with a motor drill. Don't wear sandals; opt for work boots or at least sneakers.
2. Avoid wearing loose, loose clothes and watch your laces. If any of this gets into the auger, it won't be pleasant. To protect against flying dust and debris, wear safety glasses and gloves when the auger is running.
3. Read the instructions for the gas auger before starting. Even if you have a lot of experience with power drills, different manufacturers implement safety features differently, which vary from model to model.
4. After reading the instructions, carefully check the gas drill to see if any repairs or replacement of damaged parts are needed, or if anything broke off during transportation.
5. Make sure the kill switch buttons and wires are not damaged and are properly connected and functioning.
6. To make sure the throttle is working properly, start the engine and let it run for a few seconds before releasing the throttle. If everything is working normally, the engine will automatically return to idle.
7. Next, check the gearbox and tighten the bolts. Check the handles and body for cracks or other damage.
8. Poorly secured knives can lead to increased vibration of the gas drill and its wandering during operation, so before starting, check the fastening of the knives and, if necessary, tighten them. Don't get hurt by sharp edges! If you are installing knives on a gas drill for the first time, use the manufacturer's instructions.
9. If you are working with a gas auger that has a kickback reaction rod, be sure to attach it correctly. The bar is installed differently different manufacturers, so follow the instructions.
10. Finally, be sure to check your oil, fuel, or hydraulic fluid levels. After the engine warms up, it will be more difficult to replenish the fluid level, gasoline will ignite when it comes into contact with hot metal, and so on. Therefore, it is easier to do this before starting work.
11. If all the previous steps have been completed, then the operator’s safety is now in his own hands.

• When the tedious part of preparing yourself and the gas drill for work is over, you need to remember about those around you. Do not let anyone come closer than 3 meters when starting the gas drill.
• When the auger is running, position the auger perpendicular to the ground for better control and optimal results.
• Tip: For better control, vary the auger pressure depending on the soil. On soft soil, do not press too hard on the auger; on heavier soils, apply a little more power, but not so much that the rotation stops and the engine stalls.
• The main tip for working with a motor drill is to pull not with your back, but with your legs. It’s easy to strain your back when working with a gas drill, so put the load on your legs.
• When you have reached the desired depth, you should remove and stop the motor drill correctly. Since the auger rotates with high speed, never pull it completely out of the hole until the engine has stopped. Even an experienced operator may not be able to handle the gas drill in this case. When removing the gas drill, release the gas and allow the engine to stop. Only after a complete stop can you get the gas drill out of the hole.
• If the auger gets stuck in a tree root or hard soil, stop the engine and disconnect the auger. Rotate it counterclockwise to release it. Sometimes this requires an adjustable wrench. In the most extreme cases you will have to dig out the auger.
• If you are holding a gas drill in your hands for the first time in your life, take your time and do not press hard on the gas. By working at low speed you will master basic skills and understand the mechanics of the process. And don't get hurt in the process.

Blog of the site motobur.ru

07/22/2016

The most important thing to understand before starting work is that drilling with a motor drill is hard physical work. - a tool with a gasoline engine driving the drilling tool, but controlled physical strength person. The rotation of the drilling auger is carried out using a gasoline engine, and all other operations - setting the direction of drilling, lifting the soil to the surface, fixing the tool on work surface- are performed using the physical strength of the operator.

The drilling process is traumatic, so rely on your physical capabilities. To drill holes in clay with diameters of 250 mm and above, choose powerful motor drills for two operators or motor drills with universal control handles.

Do not believe the stories of “experts” who say that drilling with a motor drill is an easy job, do not expect any magic from a motor drill, it will not work completely for you. The hardest part of drilling is lifting the soil to the surface and keeping the drill from spinning back against the resistance of the soil. And all these operations are very difficult and are performed using human physical strength.

Working with a motorized drill. Checking the condition of the drilling tool.

1. – must not be worn out. The cutting edge of the cutting knife should always extend beyond the edge of the auger flange (spiral). Only if this condition is met, the cutting knife and drilling auger are considered ready for work. If the cutting blade is worn off and does not extend beyond the edge of the flange (see figure), then it is necessary to urgently replace the cutting blade, otherwise there is a risk of failure of the gearbox, clutch, and hydraulic pump.

Always check the condition of the cutting blade between drilling holes.

3. The flange (spiral) must be welded to the pipe in the required places, without cracks or strong deflections. If necessary, a damaged auger must be repaired or replaced.

4. For Flex-Coil Drilling Augers: The safety spring must not be damaged or compressed. The spring mounting screws are fully tightened.

5. Decide what kind of soil you will drill and install knives suitable for your type of soil.

6. Find out what is located underground at the drilling point. Perhaps there are communications there that you can damage. Or is there a layer construction waste which could cause you to be injured or your motor drill to fail.

Getting started with a motor drill.

The most dangerous thing when drilling is kickback which instantly occurs when the drilling auger collides with an obstacle in the ground. Always be prepared for a blowback. Always expect backlash. If you are not careful, there is a risk of injury. Be especially careful when drilling into rocky soil and clay.

Start the motor drill engine according to the instructions. Do not try to start drilling immediately after startup. Allow the engine to warm up for some time after starting the engine. To drill, stand firmly on the ground. Use shoes with non-slip soles. If drilling is carried out on a slippery surface, be especially careful. Hold the auger control handles firmly; a weak grip may result in injury. At the same time, the arms and legs should be relaxed and slightly bent to minimize the risk of injury.

Working with a motorized drill.

Remember that any motor drill is a heavy tool; the drill auger also has a lot of weight, especially if the flange diameter is more than 250 mm. Therefore, never try to drill a hole to the full depth of the auger in one go, otherwise you will not be able to lift the auger to the surface. Drill gradually, never try to drill to the full depth of the auger and clear the hole from the soil in one lift. Drilling a hole should be done by alternating drilling and clearing the hole from the ground. Go deep 30-40 cm (possibly less if you are working with heavy augers with a large flange diameter) and slightly lifting the drilling auger in the hole above the plane of contact of the cutting knives and the soil, free the auger from the mined-out soil. Do not remove the rotating auger completely from the hole, otherwise there is a risk of injury.

When drilling, especially in soft soil, never press too hard on the motor drill, otherwise the auger will almost instantly twist into the ground, like a screw into a tree, and it will be very difficult to lift the soil and the drilling auger to the surface. Resist the drill auger from entering the ground quickly. When drilling rocky and clay soil it is very important that cutting knives did not jam in the ground, in the plane of contact of the cutting knives and the ground.

Imagine and feel in the hole the place of contact between the cutting knives and the soil, and slightly raise the plane of the cutting knives above this surface so that the rotation speed of the drill auger does not drop and drilling is free. The cutting knives will slowly destroy the clay layer or stones, but the auger will not jam in the ground.

When drilling clay or rocky soil, always use knives, which are many times more durable than conventional knives. When drilling heavy, wet plastic clay, it very quickly sticks to the surface of the auger flange. The drilling speed drops sharply and the load on the drilling transmission increases. To make drilling easier, lubricate the surface of the flange with used machine oil. You can also try adding water to the hole.

If you choose a motor drill for drilling frozen soil, then pay special attention to the engine power and torque of the motor drill. When choosing a motor drill for frozen soil, the maximum possible diameter stated in technical specifications decreases by at least two times. When drilling into frozen soil, always use only cutting knives with carbide inserts. Before drilling, treat the entry point of the drilling auger with a crowbar to a depth of 30-40 cm to facilitate the start of drilling.

When drilling with extensions, first make a hole to the depth of the drill auger; we remind you that this must be done gradually, drilling to a depth of 30-40 cm. Clear the hole from the soil by lifting the auger to the surface. Remove waste soil from around the hole. After this, lower the auger back into the hole, attach the extension and continue gradual drilling as recommended above. Lift up top part auger to the surface so that the soil rises along the flange to the surface and collects around the hole. When using conventional tubular extensions to a depth of more than one and a half meters, remember that the wall of the hole may crumble into the hole, in which case you will not be able to lift the drill auger to the surface.

When drilling to a depth of more than two meters, we recommend using a tripod with a winch and. For drilling together with a tripod and auger extensions, motorized drills are designed that structurally allow the auger and auger extension to be lifted to a height of more than two meters.