home · electrical safety · Knapsack sprayer is not gaining momentum. Possible malfunctions of the sprayer and ways to eliminate them. Self-repair of elements and assemblies

Knapsack sprayer is not gaining momentum. Possible malfunctions of the sprayer and ways to eliminate them. Self-repair of elements and assemblies

Standard garden sprayers consist of tank, pump, hose and nozzle system different configuration for spraying herbicides and insecticides in the garden. Treatment chemicals under the pressure created by the pump, allows you to control the distance and density of the liquid spray so that the chemicals reach all difficult areas, for example, under the leaves. Over time, problems can arise with the sprayer, which, however, can often be resolved and the tool restored to good working order for further use.

leaks

If you notice any leaks from the hose, nozzle or connection valves, you must stop using the sprayer immediately and, if this function is available, apply only internal pressure with a safety valve, as dripping chemicals can injure nearby plants and animals. Or limit the flow of substances by other improvised means.

Each of the connections has an o-ring or gasket. Over time, these gaskets shift or crack. Once you have pinpointed the location of the leak and the deformed element, you need to decide whether you can simply fix the problem by putting it back in place or whether a replacement is required. Making these simple, but necessary action should fix the leak.

blockage

Tiny dirt particles clog nozzles and hoses over time, especially if the reservoir is not thoroughly cleaned after each use. If you find that spray is blocked, clogging is your sprayer's problem.

After removing the pressure with the safety valve, it is necessary to clean the problem area, for example, the nozzle, and let water pass through it. Using the standard garden hose and strong water pressure, you can solve this problem pretty quickly. But it's better to try to "blow" trouble spot or clean, for example, with a thin needle.

no pressure

Majority garden sprayers use a pump to create internal pressure. However, your sprayer may show poor head or just water flow rather than nozzle spray. Opening the tank and removing the pump assembly is the best course of action for exact definition Problems. Leaking water in the pump indicates either a damaged gasket or cracked pump components. Repairing and filling the crack or replacing worn parts should return the sprayer to normal use.

Problem Prevention

Garden sprayers stand the test of time if there is periodic Maintenance. Take some time to inspect your sprayer before the start of the season and you will be able to avoid many problems. Any dry gaskets found need to be lubricated, usually with petroleum jelly or special oils. However, each manufacturer's user guide will suggest specific lubrication needs. Drying out prevents cracking and leakage. You can also periodically replace some items if they become cracked or otherwise damaged due to winter storage. In addition, regularly flushing the sprayer of used chemicals prevents corrosion damage to internal components.

In the spring we bring equipment to household plot. Unfortunately, a situation often arises - the walk-behind tractor does not start. The owner must quickly determine the cause of the failure and fix the problem.

Starting petrol and diesel units

Motoblock is multifunctional tool. It is indispensable for household plots. Attachment allows you to perform land cultivation, grass mowing, snow removal, cargo transportation, planting and harvesting.

Equipment is equipped with gasoline or diesel engines. launch diesel walk-behind tractor And gasoline unit has differences. Therefore, it is necessary to analyze the reasons why the walk-behind tractor does not start for each specific type of engine.

Before starting the walk-behind tractor, the equipment is prepared. It is necessary to make sure that all the details are present, to make sure that the mechanisms are securely fastened.

Mechanisms often refuse to work after the winter. A long break causes a malfunction of the walk-behind tractor systems. Storage in a cold and damp room leads to the following breakdowns:

  1. Contact oxidation.
  2. Violation of wire insulation.
  3. Watering of fuel and oil.
  4. Clogged carburetor jets.

Before starting a new walk-behind tractor, all connections, clutch cable, reverse and gas are checked. The course of the cables should be smooth, effortless. Do not start the unit if there are clamps and twisting of the bundle threads.

During the first start, be sure to check the oil level in the crankcase. Lack of lubrication will damage the piston group. The crankshaft rotates up to 1400 rpm at idle. A couple of seconds is enough to form a scuff on the surface of the cylinder.

Old oil can cause engine failure. At the same time, the walk-behind tractor smokes exhaust gases white color. A complete oil change is required.

It should be borne in mind that the walk-behind tractor does not start well with insufficient oil. Watch this parameter before starting a carburetor and diesel walk-behind tractor. On some models, protection is set to a low level. The sensor blocks the start, and the unit stalls.

It should be remembered that each type of engine requires a certain brand of gasoline. For a two-stroke engine, fuel is prepared separately. The fuel mixture consists of gasoline and oil. The number of ingredients is maintained in a strict ratio.

Buy gasoline for walk-behind tractors at gas stations. The service life of the machines directly depends on the quality of the fuel. Do not start a walk-behind tractor on bad gasoline.

Repair of units and mechanisms

Starting a diesel walk-behind tractor after purchase can be difficult. This is because air is getting into the fuel system. If a long scroll (starter) fails to start, then air plugs should be released. To do this, open the diesel supply valve and unwind all connections along the fuel channels. The end point of the purge is the nozzles.

In order for an internal combustion engine to start, a number of requirements must be met. Let's list them in order:

  1. Preparation fuel mixture.
  2. Fuel supply to the cylinder.
  3. mixture ignition.
  4. Release of the fulfilled gases.

Fulfillment of the listed conditions guarantees the start of any motor.

Difficulties during start-up indicate a malfunction of components and mechanisms. The success of the repair depends on the correct diagnosis. If defects are found, they repair the diesel walk-behind tractor. Service and minor repairs can be done on your own. You will need a set of keys, locksmith tools and skillful hands.

At the stage of preparing the fuel mixture, the following incidents are possible:

  • the air filter does not let air through;
  • the opening of the tank cover is clogged;
  • the fuel supply path is clogged;
  • the carburetor broke.

After a series of unsuccessful starts, it is useful to unscrew the candle. The working part can be filled with fuel. Dry the item. Next, we pump the cylinder through the hole. We twist the candle and let it go again.

If the spark plug is dry, it means that fuel is not entering the combustion chamber. Let's perform a series of actions in order to restore the supply system:

  • drain the old gasoline;
  • rinse the tank;
  • clean the filter from dirt;
  • blow out the fuel supply hose;
  • blow through the carburetor jets;
  • fill the tank with clean gasoline;
  • open the faucet;
  • clean the breathing channel in the lid.

Ignition system malfunctions

The engine will not start if there is a malfunction in the ignition system. Why is this happening? Sources of failure can be magneto, high voltage wire, cap and spark plug. External inspection checks the cleanliness of the parts of the ignition system. Dirt and moisture cause breakdown high voltage on the body. The absence of a spark occurs when the cap is in poor contact with the central electrode of the candle.

Weak spark indicates bad job spark plug. It is necessary to check the gap and condition of the electrodes. The gap is checked with a feeler gauge. Usually it is 0.8 mm. If necessary, remove the burnt metal parts and insulator. Spark plug replacement recommended.

Parts condition piston group affects the readiness of the motor as a whole. They work in difficult conditions. Under load, the rubbing surfaces heat up. The cylinder, piston and rings are responsible for an important indicator - compression. A low compression ratio in the cylinder will indicate replacement parts.

You should also check the intake and exhaust valves. They should fit snugly into the saddles. The muffler is the last point on the route of the exhaust gases. Combustion products are gradually deposited on the walls of the muffler, and the engine stalls. For a normal pass exhaust gases the walls should be periodically cleaned of soot.

Experts advise to adhere to all recommendations of the manufacturer. The unit must not be overloaded.

Fulfillment of all requirements will extend the life of the mechanisms.

Before starting work, the owner must read the instruction manual.


A cultivator is a technique that is often used by villagers, summer residents, and farmers. Despite his high quality, there are times when the equipment fails. What to do if this happens to your equipment? Today we will analyze one of these situations, namely, we will figure out what needs to be done if the cultivator does not start.

Reasons and their solution

It is worth noting that for the long life of your equipment, you first need to learn how to take care of it. After all, cultivators require constant attention, namely, they need regular diagnostics and timely oil changes. If these key rules are not followed, your unit can often fail and upset you with its malfunctions.

So, why the cultivator does not start:

  1. At the end of the work on the site, many owners leave the equipment without work with old fuel inside. Since after a few days the fuel releases condensate and precipitates, all this negatively affects the fuel system. The carburetor is even more exposed to this, which then will need to be cleaned. To avoid such problems, always empty the remaining fuel from the tank, or operate the cultivator until the gasoline runs out.
  2. If you left gasoline to winter in the unit, then first of all you will need to pour it out of fuel tank. Next, fill in new clean gasoline and leave the unit for a couple of hours. After the time has elapsed, top up the tank with a little more fuel. If after the operation the cultivator does not start, then it is worth looking for a problem in the electric ignition. And this is already very difficult, so we advise you to turn to specialists here.
  3. Any engine garden equipment in no case will it function without oil. So check for lube in your cultivator.

It was we who provided the basic recommendations on how to start the cultivator in the event of a malfunction. More detailed instructions Do-it-yourself cultivator repair instructions can be found in the unit's service manual. If you do not have technical skills and are poorly versed in the design of motor cultivators, then you should seek help from professionals. Specialists in a short time will be able to find out and eliminate the reason why the cultivator does not start.

A small overview of the gasoline sprayers available for sale in the Russian Federation (not sprayers with a thick pipe hitting 10 meters, namely sprayers hitting a maximum of 3 m, which is important for small (up to 5 m) trees and areas without pesticides affecting neighboring trees / wells/buildings.)

1) STIHL doesn't make them. I heard about the transition of a certain engineer from the German SOLO to STIHL and some plans, but the information is unconfirmed.

2) SOLO (Germany) makes 433H models (with a four-stroke Honda engine) for 38 thousand rubles. and 434 with a two-stroke SOLO engine for 25 thousand rubles. Honda's four-stroke single-cylinder engine, as you know, has no advantages in vibration or noise, except in economy and environmental friendliness, but it has more weight. Although you will not feel the smoke from the JASO FD two-stroke oil on a two-stroke engine either. Both sprayers with a capacity of 25l. As for me, a capacity of more than 15 liters for a sprayer is obviously redundant, since to strain and lift 35 kg (10 kg of a sprayer and 25 kg of liquid) is not to love oneself much. Therefore, models of 14-17 liters are better balanced, since they fit (with a one and a half margin) just a 10-12 liter bucket of solution. For example, all STIHL atomizers (with a thick pipe) also have only 10-14L capacity and this is reasonable, although there are Chinese brands on the market with 25L atomizers.

3) Twin brother sprayers Oleo-Mac SP126 and Efco IS 2026 from the Italian plant EMAK are equipped with two-stroke engines, capacities of 25 liters and ... have an exorbitant crisis price of 38 thousand rubles.

4) Chinese Champion SP226 (15l) and PatriotPT 888A (25l) have two-stroke engines, the price is about 11 thousand rubles, but: more often control the leakage of pesticides and gasoline ...

5) ELMOS EN-24 has a 25L tank, a four-stroke Honda engine, the price is about 25 thousand rubles. But: assembled in the Russian Federation (I won’t say about the assembly shop, but I couldn’t find their office in the Russian Federation), there is no information about the quality, about the engine too (either native, or a Chinese copy).

6) Shindaiwa ES726 (“Assembled in Japan”) has excellent two stroke engine Shindaiwa 230, 25l tank, sale price from 16 thousand rubles (and this is at a pre-crisis price of 25 thousand rubles), sellers even give a warranty card from Wald. But(!): Wald never delivered this model, he doesn't support it, he doesn't have spare parts for it. And if you can still look for spare parts for the engine (from the C230 lawn mower with the same engine), then you won’t be able to repair the pump. Why is SHINDAIWA maintainability critical? The fact is that ES726 were produced only until 2009, according to the seller, they were also brought to the Russian Federation until 2010 (!), the condition of rubber products and gaskets is questionable, the condition of the CPG and their corrosion also depended on the temperature and humidity of storage. Decide for yourself.

7) Purely Japanese ("Made in Japan", also Kioritz) ECHO SHR-150SI has an excellent two-stroke engine (with a separate "Made in Japan" label) with bypass valves and improved economy and environmental friendliness, an excellent ultra-light i-mode winding system (slightly pulled without any jerks and started), and you can start the engine even without removing the sprayer from your shoulders due to the cable extended forward, the dry weight is less than 6 kg (!), obviously hermetic interfaces, and a 15 liter tank is enough for 15-18 minutes of aerosol fogging.

8) But the new SHR-170SI, which replaced the ECHO SHR-150SI (from Kioritz, “Made in Japan”) at the end of 2014, is already from Yamabiko (moreover, it became “Assembled in Japan”, i.e. the tank and pump are possibly from China) a little tense. The engine seems to be the same (except that the power and noise are measured according to the new ISO, showing a little best numbers) is still Japanese “Made in Japan”, but:

The pump of the sprayer is outwardly different (Japanese or Chinese?), which is why the old tee and hose fitting are forced to look no longer to the side (as on the SHR-150SI), but under the lower right edge of a narrow Japanese (I personally do not welcome the contact of the hose with body);

The high-voltage wire at the candle received an incomprehensible bend;

The tank (where is it made?) has become a little larger (although it is still calibrated to 15l)¸but the filler filter of the tank was noticed in an annoying rattle (this was not the case in the SHR-150SI)

The price for real (not virtual) SHR-150SI and SHR-170SI is now the same (around 28 thousand rubles), so I would recommend taking a purebred Japanese SHR-150SI.

And one more thing: the design of all sprayers (except ECHO) is the same (almost all of them are made in China with different quality) and is associated with a dual control of the solution supply: the knob is responsible for the pressure, the lever is responsible for the revolutions. Unfortunately, the protruding lever will regularly touch and slow down. Therefore, the author of one of the video reports fixes it with a self-tapping screw. It will also not be possible to start the engine without the difficult removal of a heavy sprayer. But ECHO has a new combined control of only one sector of the gas from three positions (Idle, Start, Full throttle), which is more ergonomic, and the throttle cable is accessible even without removing the sprayer from the shoulders, and the i-mode system allows you to start the engine with just a slight pull .

Therefore, the Japanese ECHO would be considered the most advanced sprayer of all of the above.

Thanks for the review are accepted, and for dessert one video on new and old ECHOs: