Seedlings on the balcony - what you need to know to get a good harvest. Methods of hardening seedlings before planting When can seedlings be taken out?

We buy and make greenhouses to warm our seedlings and plants during cool periods in spring and autumn, because the climate is not the same! A greenhouse is a shelter to provide more comfortable conditions for plants. In cold times, due to the accumulation of heat from sun rays and longer cooling under cover is the main effect of insulation, apparently this is where the name comes from - greenhouse. But how can we determine when the time has come to FEARLESSLY and, most importantly, SAFELY take out our prepared plants for further more intensive development. This goal is pursued more than anything else. It’s no secret that crops in hotbeds and hothouses ripen somewhat earlier than in open ground.

I’ll tell you the pickup time right away. seedlings into a greenhouse, it is different for each greenhouse, and navigating by its neighbors can be very destructive and deceptive. It seems like it’s warming up, but on the second or third day bam and FROST. . Each gardener installs a greenhouse based on his own considerations - this is because each greenhouse has different sizes and different material shelters are two. This suggests the conclusion that even in identically designed greenhouses standing next to each other, but different sizes The time for seedlings to be removed will vary. In our area there is a massive removal seedlings in greenhouses occurs in mid-April. I am two to three weeks ahead of everyone else in removing seedlings; this requires some capital investments and adaptations. I’ve been preparing the greenhouse since the fall, making an internal insulation dome, plus gas heating at night, when the sun doesn’t shine and there’s no heat coming into the greenhouse, I take insurance just in case. Trust in God, and don’t make a mistake yourself! The automation works and heats the air in the greenhouse, and I go about my business without fear for the seedlings, I spent my money and continue to have freedom!

How do you know when it’s time for seedlings to move?

Estimated moving time seedlings to the greenhouse, this is March 15-25, everything comes from solar activity, and indeed it is at this time that the increase in spring sunlight that is so necessary and desired by everyone begins. Consequently, the greenhouse becomes quite warm and cozy. But not everything is so simple, you need to clarify the moment, that is, get confirmation from the sun and other weather factors that the risks of seedling death are minimal. You can, of course, choose the spring equinox as your starting point. Well, my volunteer assistant “control light” helps me in this matter. The method has been described so far only by me, and you can safely call it mine by right of first description and application.

"Test light" is a method of detecting changes in day and night temperatures in a greenhouse using plastic bottle capacity 0.6 liters. How does the “control light” behave? The essence of its work is not in the glow, of course, but in the cycles of freezing and thawing. Thermodynamics at the service of vegetable growing, however... I use the thermal inertia of water as an indicator of the average daily temperature. At night it freezes, and during the day, when the sun is already heating the greenhouse quite well, it thaws, while solar activity is low, the “control light” will be completely or partially frozen. As it warms and increases solar radiation, our bottle thaws faster and freezes slower. And when in the morning before the sun rises it does not have time to freeze, this is confirmation of the signal to begin planning the transfer seedlings in the greenhouse. Simple, clear and most importantly CONVENIENT! Doubts away!

Now an example, today is March 3, 2013 outside temperature minus 2 degrees, but the bottle in the greenhouse froze. Yesterday the temperature was minus 18-20 degrees Celsius, there was a sudden warming at night, but the bottle was FROZEN. This suggests that solar activity and average daily temperatures are still very weak and despite the thaw it is still very early to rejoice, it is better for the seedlings to stay warm and under lamps, if any.

What should you pay attention to when taking seedlings into the greenhouse?

You should not focus on the day of the week or the day of the month, this is incorrect from the very beginning. Moon calendar also bullshit. You can, of course, “guess”, but this will be a mistake, and next years the weather will punish you for neglect and haste. But you can already navigate quite well by solar activity, but if you look at the average temperatures for the ten-day period of March or April, then seedlings it will be much safer. The “control light” is already a more serious hint; it indicates the moment of creating a positive microclimate in the greenhouse. Next, the decision must be made by a thinking person.

So that after reading this article you don’t have a “porridge” in your head, I suggest you look at the climate diagrams that are kindly and freely presented to us all by the Yandex online service - Yandex - Weather. I worked on the diagrams a little and got this pretty clear picture.

Average daily temperatures in the Novosibirsk region from Yandex. Pay attention to the markers!

Daytime temperatures begin to rise in the second half of March, and night temperatures cross the zero mark only in May, and then not significantly. The greenhouse gives us the opportunity to use this period to grow vegetables and herbs. It happens quite often that in June we light up the stoves. Siberia, it forces you to be prudent in many plans.

The main purpose of hardening off seedlings is to prepare them for the conditions external environment. After all, young plants just planted in open ground will be actively affected by stronger UV radiation (ultraviolet), cold and gusty winds, and daily temperature fluctuations. And since replanting is already stressful for the plant, if it is not ready for the effects of the above factors, slower rooting and yellowing of the leaves are possible ( sunburn) and even the death of the plant. In order to best prepare the plant for the conditions that will await it after planting in open ground, it is recommended to harden the seedlings. There are several methods for this. Experts from the Union of Gardeners of Russia advise.

Specifics of the place

* Hardening off seedlings on a glazed balcony

You can harden seedlings on glazed loggias and balconies when the temperature there is 10°C higher than outside. Cold-resistant plants can begin to be hardened at a temperature of +5+7 °C (in the shade). At first, it is advisable to keep the seedlings out for just a few hours. Gradually, the time the seedlings stay on the balcony or loggia increases. Before planting, it is recommended to take the seedlings out onto the balcony for 3-4 days and not take them into the balcony again. warm room. Seedlings can also be left on the balcony overnight under certain conditions. For example, if the daytime air temperature outside does not fall below 14-15 °C, and the night temperature is more than 3-4 °C, you can leave the seedlings on the balcony around the clock. It is believed that hardening on a glazed balcony cannot fully prepare the plant for outdoor conditions. It is generally recommended to continue hardening outdoors.

• * Hardening on unglazed balconies

It’s still worth switching to it after hardening the seedlings on a glazed loggia or balcony.

* Hardening off seedlings in greenhouses

It is recommended to harden off seedlings grown in greenhouses 10-15 days before the intended planting in open ground. First, you need to open the frames slightly during the day for several hours. Gradually the frames should be opened more long time and then for the whole day. When frost-free periods occur, it is quite possible to leave the frames open overnight.

Cultural characteristics

The approach to hardening cold-resistant crops such as cabbage and heat-loving crops such as tomatoes and peppers should be different.

• Cabbage.

Hardening off cabbage seedlings can begin already in the germination phase. Immediately after their appearance, it is advisable, for example, to transfer the seedlings for a day to the balcony (for those living in the city) or to another cool room or greenhouse (for residents rural areas), and take it indoors by nightfall. To undergo hardening, such transfers must be carried out for 5 days.

Hardening off tomato seedlings

From mid-April, if the night temperature on your balcony does not drop below +12°C, you can begin to harden the seedlings. To do this, the boxes with seedlings must be taken out to a glazed balcony, where they can be left until planted in the ground. After a week, you can open the window in the balcony frame for 15-20 minutes, increasing the time the seedlings spend “in the fresh air” by 10-15 minutes every day. 3-4 days before planting, the seedlings should be left under open air for a full day. If you do not have the opportunity to take boxes of tomato seedlings to a glassed-in balcony, you can periodically open the window or window on which the containers stand. The main thing is that in the end the tomato seedlings are healthy before planting in the ground: dark green, with well-developed leaves and actively developing buds.

If you decide to turn your balcony into a mini-garden and grow seedlings on it, then this review will tell you what you need to pay close attention to. To achieve good results, you should know how to create optimal conditions for a particular crop, and carry out work in certain deadlines. Therefore, carefully read the recommendations outlined below to avoid problems in the process of growing seedlings.

Key Factors You Need to Know

Those who think that to grow seedlings it is enough to plant seeds in the ground and periodically water them, most often do not achieve good results. Yes, the process is not complicated, but it’s worth knowing a few important aspects, which influence final result, and then we will analyze them in more detail.

Balcony assessment

This is the first thing to do. Not all balconies are suitable for our purposes, and those that are suitable may have different features, due to which the process of growing seedlings on them will vary greatly.

First of all, you need to deal with bearing capacity designs. You can find out this aspect from the organization responsible for the operation of the building. They will tell you what load the structure is designed for, so you can decide how much weight can be placed on it.

Naturally, in addition to the data from the housing office, you should also inspect the balcony slab yourself for cracks and damage. Growing plants while endangering the safety of others is not a good idea.

The second factor to evaluate is the location of the structure. There are two main options here:

• Sunny side balconies. Excellent for growing most crops, the sun helps seedlings grow faster, especially at first, when the air temperature is still low and plant growth is slow;

• Balconies on the shaded side. Not the best option, since most crops need a lot of sun. In such cases, only a few can be grown shade-loving crops, which do not need an abundance of light.

To find out how much light a crop requires, just look at the information on the seed package. The optimal conditions for growing plants are most often described there.

Construction type - another important factor, affecting the cultivation of seedlings on the balcony. There are three main solutions here:

1. Unglazed option. The temperature on it is no different from the temperature outside, so at first you will have to carry the plants into the house at night. And this is everyday work, and not very easy if there are a lot of containers and they weigh significantly;

1. Glazed systems. More convenient option, where the temperature is slightly higher than outside. If it is not very cold outside, then there is no need to move the plants, but if there are frosts at night, then it is advisable to put the containers in the apartment so that the sprouts do not suffer from low temperatures;

1. Insulated structures. These could be balconies or loggias, where the air temperature is noticeably higher than outside. Most often, there is no need to remove plants at night; they already grow well, hardening along the way, since the temperature difference is still greater than in an apartment.

Features of planting different crops

Now let’s figure out when you can put seedlings on the balcony, what time frame the work is carried out and what should be taken into account. It is important to understand that seed germination must take place in the apartment, only then can the plants be moved.

As for different cultures, the table below will help you understand all the important aspects:

Illustration	Description
	Tomato seedlings can also be grown for open ground, and for greenhouses: In the first case, the planting time is March 15-25, it is better to use sprouted seeds, they sprout much faster than regular ones; For greenhouse options, the optimal period is from April 5 to April 15. Planting in the ground or greenhouse takes place after 50-60 days, it all depends on the variety. Information is always on the packaging. There is also data on what temperature is best to grow plants, most often it is 25-30 degrees.
	Pepper and eggplant seeds It is best to sow between March 5 and March 15. Before doing this, it is advisable to soak them for 3-4 days so that the sprouts hatch, this will speed up the process of germination from the soil. The optimal temperature for normal growth is 25-30 degrees. Regarding the timing of planting in open ground, greenhouses or pots big size, then this should be done approximately 55-60 days after the sprouts appear.
	Early white cabbage should be sown between 15 and 25 March. It is recommended to soak the seeds for a couple of days before sowing, this will help them germinate in just 3-5 days. Optimal temperature regime for plants it is 20-25 degrees. As for the timing of planting, this can be done as early as 45 days after the first shoots emerge from the soil.
	Cauliflower and all its other types are planted from March 25 to April 5. The seeds are germinated, this will speed up their growth. Sprouts begin to emerge 3-5 days after sowing, if this is a sprouted option. If you just sowed them, then expect germination no earlier than in 2 weeks. The optimal temperature for plant growth is 20-25 degrees. They can be planted approximately 45 days after germination.
	Onion seeds are sown in late February - early March. Pre-soaked seeds germinate in 7-10 days, and they need to be soaked several times, placing them in water at a temperature of 40 degrees. As for the air temperature, then optimal range is 20-25 degrees. The time for planting seedlings is approximately 60 days after germination.
	Cucumbers are sown from April 15 to April 25. This is one of the easiest crops to grow seedlings with your own hands. Simple instructions will help achieve the best result: the seeds are soaked for several hours in a solution of potassium permanganate. The optimum temperature is 22-25 degrees, the lighting should be good and the soil should be moderately moist. Melons and watermelons are grown in the same way. After the cotyledons have opened, the temperature can be lowered for 3-4 days to 18 degrees, this will prevent the sprouts from stretching.
	Flower seedlings for the balcony grown according to the recommendations on the packaging. Terms and conditions may vary; the photo shows the variety of crops that can be grown. Select specific options based on the light level and temperature on your balcony.

Never buy seeds in markets; in 90% of cases the quality will not stand up to criticism. It is better to go to specialized stores, where the price is much higher, but you can be sure that you are getting exactly what is shown on the package.

Conclusion

Grow planting material growing on the balcony is not difficult if you know all the requirements and create optimal conditions for plants. The video in this article will tell you Additional information on the topic, and if you have questions, write them in the comments.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

The fact is that I grow seedlings for sale. I trade on the market and have regular customers. See you various cultures, but I get my main income from tomatoes. Usually people are happy with the quality of my plants. My seedlings are strong, stocky, hardened. In the summer, at the same market I sell my vegetables: cucumbers, tomatoes, herbs... It happens that buyers recognize me and thank me. But sometimes, on the contrary, they express their dissatisfaction: they say that my seedlings are of no use.

This year one lady was especially indignant and said: “Come and see what has grown!” I wasn't afraid and went. As I expected, I saw not my own, but other people’s mistakes. I am writing not out of insult, but to warn other gardeners against similar mistakes.

My dissatisfied customer took the “Siberian early ripening” tomato variety from me. I have been growing it for several years and know that it does well in open ground. But she put him in a greenhouse and began to intensively “feed” him with manure. The bushes have grown huge, but there are very few fruits on them. But the main thing is not even that the plants were overfed. It was very hot in the greenhouse. The door is open only on one side, and opposite the entrance there is a viburnum growing. In such conditions there is practically no air movement. The temperature in the greenhouse rises above 35C, and this is detrimental to pollen. Pollination does not occur and fruits are not set. When I explained all this to her, my customer remembered that she had given five bushes to her neighbor in the garden. She planted them in the ground, and she had no problems with the harvest.

Death of tomato pollen from elevated temperatures in a greenhouse- a fairly common phenomenon. For this reason, more than 70% of the harvest can be lost!

Gardeners still fail to harvest some of the fruits due to elongated, weak seedlings. Such plants are not able to bear the load of the harvest, so they spend a lot of time getting stronger. I always feel sorry for the work of gardeners who care for their frail bushes and then collect single fruits from them.

CHOICE OF VARIETY. For our conditions Middle zone In Russia I select early varieties and hybrids. The best ones are those recommended for open ground. If you plant them in a greenhouse, they will grow well there too, but greenhouse varieties in the open air may not have time to produce a full harvest.

SOIL PREPARATION. I prepare the soil myself from a mixture of sand, humus and sawdust. I have been stocking up on components since the fall and storing them on the balcony. If you buy soil in a store, you can’t skimp on it. Poor soil costs less, but seedlings have to be fed frequently, which increases fertilizer costs.

I highly recommend adding some kind of leavening agent to purchased soil: moss, sawdust, sand or vermiculite. Homogeneous purchased soil quickly cakes or “sinters” from impurities that are in tap water. Even after settling, many undesirable substances remain in it and then accumulate in the soil.

In loose soil with large heterogeneous particles (moss, sawdust, humus) there is more air, a developed root system. When transplanted from a common box, it is slightly damaged, but thanks to the abundance of roots, it quickly recovers.

Sowing. Many people find it difficult to determine the timing of sowing. For myself, I long ago established a rule: I sow pepper - “he” - on February 23rd. I sow tomatoes - “she” - before or after March 8th. Early varieties work well within such time frames. One day I got sick and was able to sow tomatoes only on the twentieth of March. Before planting, the seedlings managed to gain strength.

Before sowing, I always treat the seeds in a phytosporin solution. After this, I dry them and sow them in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 5 cm. I cover them with film and keep them warm until germination, away from the window sills. I monitor the seedlings every day. When the first shoots appear, I place the box in the brightest place.

WATERING. I water it moderately, especially at first, while the seedlings are small and there is a high risk of blackleg disease. Works well against her Glyocladin(1 tablet per pot or 3-4 plants per box). For watering I use only melted snow or well water, which, unlike tap water does not contain impurities.

PICKING. For getting early harvest I grow two to three dozen bushes in separate cups. I plant the rest more spaciously in boxes with the same soil as for sowing. The distance between plants is at least 12 cm. With such sparse planting, large areas near the window are required, so additional shelves have to be installed on the balcony and windowsill.

FEEDING. On my fertile soil, fertilizing is practically not needed. But I try to water the seedlings as often as possible with an infusion of onion peels. It contains trace elements and protects against diseases. The seedlings from it have a healthy green color. Onion peel infusion is a very simple, affordable and effective remedy. I do this every day: onion skins from preparing homemade dishes, I pour boiling water (husks from 2-4 onions per liter jar). On the second day the infusion is ready. I recommend that gardeners use soft humic fertilizers (instructions included) and growth stimulants, for example, Bud. During hardening, and also 10 days after planting the seedlings in the ground, I give phosphorus fertilizers, they stimulate the growth of the root system.

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that an overdose of any drugs and fertilizers is unacceptable. Do everything according to the instructions, don’t rely on your memory, read it again. An overdose may have the opposite effect.

HARDENING. As the seedlings grow, I lower the temperature. To do this, I open the inner window frame in the room (you have to sacrifice your own comfort in order to obtain high-quality seedlings). I take the seedlings out onto the balcony very early: when it’s still cold outside, but on the glassed-in balcony it’s already +9..10°C. This prevents the plants from stretching. You should know that heat-loving crops do not grow at a temperature of +8°C, but this can be used if the seedlings are already overgrown to slow down their growth. Be sure to buy a thermometer to monitor your temperature. Sometimes it seems very cold on the loggia, but in fact it’s just what you need for seedlings. If it gets very cold outside, I open the door to the balcony - warm air from the room maintains the temperature on the balcony.

LANDING. Already on April 15 I planted my tomatoes in a glass greenhouse. There, between the plants, I place boxes with seedlings (for sale). It still happens until mid-May severe frosts, so I install arcs over the tomatoes and cover them with film or spunbond. During the day I remove the spunbond, and in the evening I secure it again with clothespins. If frosts are expected, then I always water the seedlings from a watering can at night.

I plant tomatoes in the ground on May 25th. I arrange them in ridges to make it easier to care for and cover them with spunbond from the cold. However, after hardening, the plants can already withstand slight return frosts.

CARE. As soon as the first clusters of flowers appear, you need to carefully monitor the temperature in greenhouses. Be sure to open opposite sides of the greenhouse to ensure ventilation. In hot weather, you need to water the entire surface of the soil with a watering can, since ventilation does not help, and when moisture evaporates, the air temperature decreases. If it is impossible to open the greenhouse every day, then in the spring, tighten the end sides with spunbond. Such a greenhouse “breathes” and the air inside it heats up less.

I give fertilizers once every 10-14 days, but I’m not keen on nitrogen. Judging by my experience, it is very suitable for feeding tomatoes. herbal infusion: best from nettle, quinoa, sweet clover, lupine, as well as meadow herbs. I cook it in a 200 liter barrel and add a bucket of ash from the stove. With this feeding, tomatoes do not fatten. I prepare the infusion of manure in this way: I place a full shovel of horse manure on a bucket of water. I insist for at least three days. I dilute: 1 ladle of infusion per 10 ladles of water.

Against late blight I use phytosporin. But I start spraying not in August (as many gardeners do), but with the blooming of the first cluster. I repeat it every 10-14 days. With such agricultural technology, I have stable harvests, which are enough for myself and for sale.

L.N. Nefedova, Nizhny Novgorod