Design and maintenance features of roof drainage. Features of different types of roof gutters. Gutter material

A system for collecting rainwater from the roof slopes and discharging it into a storm drain, or at least away from the foundation of the house, is mandatory, so it must be included in the future construction project being developed. Most often, the installation of gutters is carried out at the stage of creating sheathing for further roofing. However, there are roof structures that require fastening drainage systems after roofing works. In addition, other situations occur, for example, the need to replace dilapidated gutters and pipes with appropriate fasteners.

How to install gutters if the roof is already covered

So, we solve the problem - how to install gutters if the roof is already covered. And the solution is made easier by the fact that manufacturers of drainage systems, having provided different cases, in which it is necessary to mount a common structure, they are manufactured in different versions. They will be discussed below.

Varieties of modern drainage systems by material of manufacture

Not so long ago, the most popular and, perhaps, the only available material For the manufacture of drainage systems, galvanized steel was used, from which they are still produced today. But they are gradually being replaced by metal structures with a polymer coating, or made entirely of plastic. Such systems have a more respectable appearance and a long service life, significantly exceeding the durability of conventional galvanized options. Thanks to these qualities, “new generation” gutters quickly became in great demand among buyers.

Since consumers quite often have a question about which option is better - regular galvanized, metal, polymer-coated, or completely plastic, it’s worth a few words about their comparative characteristics. It should immediately be noted that everyone from materials from which Gutters are produced, there are advantages and disadvantages.

• A plastic drainage system can be called the most optimal option, since the material used for its manufacture is not afraid of temperature changes and is resistant to winter frosts and summer heat. In addition, plastic is not subject to corrosive processes, is inert to ultraviolet radiation and other external negative influences.

Plastic brackets for gutters have a wide mounting surface, so they fit tightly to the wind board and are held securely on it. However, plastic cannot be bent into the desired configuration, as metal brackets. Therefore, all design details must be precisely adjusted to the specific width of the frontal board and overhang.

The cost of a plastic drainage system exceeds the prices of structures made of other materials - this can be called their most significant disadvantage.

• with a polymer coating are somewhat cheaper than plastic and have long enough service life. The systems withstand external conditions well natural influences, look very elegant in appearance, practically not inferior in this parameter to polymer ones.

However, steel parts with a polymer protective coating are not particularly resistant to mechanical scratching. Well, damage to the polymer coating leads to the occurrence of corrosion processes, which means the duration of the structure’s functioning is reduced. It is quite easy to damage the coating even during installation work. Greater care is required when assembling and working with fasteners.

• Gutters made of galvanized steel sheet are among the most inexpensive options. Their appearance is not aesthetic enough. They can serve for quite a long time, but with deep scratches, corrosion can also quickly damage the howl bad deed.

The advantage of metal systems is that some of their parts can be much more easily adjusted to certain configurations, for example, by slightly bending the brackets in the right places, which cannot be done with plastic.

You can briefly recall the less popular materials from which gutters are made for buildings with a certain design solution- it can be copper and an alloy of titanium and zinc. The reliability, durability and appearance of such systems are beyond praise, but the price is clearly high. If such systems are chosen, then you can also select brackets for them that can be attached to the eaves of an already roofed roof.

In principle, support brackets can be selected for drainage systems made of any material. different designs, since they are sold not only complete with the main parts, but also separately. The main thing is that the holders match the shape and size of the gutter.

Find out how to produce by studying the instructions in a special article on our portal.

When do you have to install gutters after covering the roof?

Now we need to somewhat clarify the moments when circumstances may force us to install a drainage system after the roofing material has been laid on the roof slopes. So, there are several reasons for this installation:

• This process itself, in exactly this sequence, is provided for by the construction project. For example, if ventilation roofing system will be carried out through the perforated parts of the soffits installed under the roof overhang. Many experts consider this method of ventilation to be more effective, which is why they plan to attach the drainage gutter to the frontal (wind) board.
• Forced fastening of gutters along the eaves of a covered roof occurs if the house was purchased in unfinished form, and the former owner did not foresee their installation in advance.
• Very common reason when old system drainage system is completely outdated and has exhausted its service life - the gutters began to leak, and the metal holders rusted and did not perform their function properly.

• If the rafter system was used for, which, according to technology, should go out onto the eaves overhang. Therefore, in this option, there is no possibility of attaching the brackets for laying the gutters to the sheathing and they need to be attached to the wind board.

How drainage systems are installed along eaves overhangs

Types of brackets for attaching gutters

Brackets can be made of metal or plastic and vary in design. Choice the desired model will depend on the location and method of fixing the drainage system.

Brackets can be long, short and universal:

• Long hooks are most often used to secure under the roofing before it is laid on. These elements are fixed to the rafters, usually even before installing the open or continuous sheathing.
• Short brackets can be used to install a drainage system on a front board or on the wall of a building. This type of hooks is installed as before laying the roofing on rafter system, and after the roof is equipped. In addition to the front board or wall, sometimes this type of bracket is attached to the end surface of rafter legs or fillies. However, in this case, the reliability of the installation will be significantly lower, since the fastening screws or nails will enter the wood parallel to the grain.
• The universal version of the brackets is a collapsible design that can be used for installing drainage systems as before the flooring roofing material, and after this process. The ability to adjust the length allows you to use them both long and short.

Methods for securing gutters

First you need to understand the options for installing drainage systems with a roof covering installed. This will make it possible to decide which of them is applicable in each specific case.

So, there are four ways to secure brackets to elements of the rafter system:

• On the rafter legs, both on the end and on their upper or side sides.
• On the wind (frontal) board.
• Under the roof, on the bottom board of the sheathing or on plywood (opc) of continuous sheathing.
• On the edge of the roof covering.

The first method is to the rafters or sheathing

If the brackets are fixed before installing the roofing material, then they are most often fixed on the rafters or on the bottom board of the sheathing. In this case, supporting hooks with long legs that if necessary correct location gutters can be bent or left in direct form. In addition to them, universal brackets are sometimes used for the installation of drainage systems in this case.

Attaching hooks to sheathing boards (sheets)

If the roof covering has already been laid, for example if the old gutter system needs to be replaced, and the brackets are planned to be fixed in a similar way, then the bottom layer of roofing material will have to be removed. True, this is not always easy.

To do this, it will be necessary to unscrew the fasteners not only of the first, but also of the second row of coverage. Rigid roofing material must be removed carefully. This is especially important if the coating is not new, but has been in use for several years, otherwise the sheets can be easily damaged, which will lead to unnecessary costs. And not every material can be dismantled without breaking its integrity or without deformation, especially if it is secured with nails. So, problems are very likely, for example, with ordinary slate or ondulin.

In a situation where the roof is laid on a plywood base, you can try to carefully lift only the lower edge of the roofing material running along the eaves. Then, align the brackets to continuous sheathing and secure with self-tapping screws, screwing them into the rafters through the plywood covering. Next step bitumen shingles or the roofing material returns to its original position and is fixed to the surface using bitumen mastic.

Video: Installation of a drainage system with edge dismantling of tile roofing

In order not to dismantle the roofing, you can try using another option for installing brackets on the rafters. It consists of attaching hooks to the side of the timber. For this purpose, brackets with a bent, deployed in horizontal plane mounting platform - an example is shown in the figure above.

It should be remembered that such installation is only possible if the rafter legs have sufficient big size in cross section, for example, 120×50 or 150×50 mm. In addition, it is necessary to take into account that the hooks must be secured so that the roof covering hangs over the gutter, covering ½ or ⅓ of its width, otherwise an overflow of water may occur during heavy rain.

Therefore, if you choose the option of fixing the brackets on the side of the rafters, you first need to do a fitting, which will show whether this method of installation is possible.

The second method is to attach the brackets to the front board

The easiest way to install the brackets is on the wind (frontal) board, and this can be done using various fasteners.

The front board is fixed on the end sides of the rafter legs, and in various designs may be wide or narrow. The choice of bracket type will depend on this parameter.

For installation drainage system on front board fit:

• Long brackets, if the frontal board has big enough width. Such holders are made of metal and have a leg the same width as the hook. On the leg there is also a mounting platform with holes through which the brackets are attached to the front board.

• Short brackets are designed for fastening them to the frontal board, the wall of the building, as well as to the end side of the rafters. As already stated, last option undesirable, the reliability of fixation will be questionable due to the location of the fasteners parallel to the wood fibers.

Plastic short hooks most often have a wide base in the mounting area, so they will firmly hold the gutters.

In addition to conventional brackets, you can find adjustable versions on sale. Their convenience lies in the fact that they have a special device that allows you to set the slope of the hook relative to the base to which they are attached. Sometimes this function cannot be avoided, for example, when installing a drainage system on an inclined wind board or on the crown of a log house.

Another option for attaching gutters to the front board using short hooks is a whole system consisting of a metal guide profile and special holder brackets. First, a guide is fixed to the wind board, which is immediately given the required slope. Then brackets are put on the side of the profile and moved along the guide, spaced at the required distance. There is no need to fix such brackets, since they are tightly installed in the profile - this is one of the advantages of this fastening system. In addition, when installing it, you will not have to measure the location of each hook according to its height - you will only need to align the profile with the required slope in level and securely fix it through the holes specially provided in it.

However, such a system can be installed if the roof overhang has a suitable width.

When installing individual brackets, first a horizontal line is marked on the wind board with a slope of three to five millimeters for each linear meter of the gutter towards the drain funnel. Then you need to retreat from the end edge of the front board from 50 to 100 mm - this will be the installation location for the first bracket.

Next, the entire line is marked so that there is a distance of no more than 600 mm between the hooks (systems from some manufacturers allow a larger step - this is specified in the installation instructions). In the area where the drain funnel is installed, the holders are fixed at a distance of no more than 50 mm from it.

After making such markings, you can proceed to attaching the brackets to the front board.

The third method is to attach the brackets directly to the edge of the roofing.

This method is applicable for installing a drainage system along the eaves of a roof covered with almost any toughroofing material. Fastening of hook holders is carried out using special clamps (clamps), which secure the brackets along the edge of the roof.

There are different types of clamps, some will need to be carefully drilled to secure them through holes in the roofing material, departing from its edge at least 50 mm. Others have a design that does not require drilling into the roof, as they are clamped along its edge. This option is fixed with a screw, which, similar to a clamp, clamps the edge of the roof.

If the brackets will be fixed to the wave covering, then this must be done exactly at the lower or upper point of the wave. It is recommended to place rubber pads under the metal fastening tabs of the clamp, both on the top and on the bottom side roofing material, so the load on it will become slightly lower and the compression will be softer.

For this method of installing a drain, both metal and plastic brackets are suitable. Ordinary long metal hooks can be remade yourself by bending them as needed, drilling holes in them and cutting threads. Plastic ones must be purchased ready-made.

Since in this option the entire load from the drainage system will fall on the edge of the roofing, it is necessary, if possible, to choose a kit that is lightweight.

The fourth method is with an additional long bracket

In this option, an additional metal L-shaped bracket is used to attach short holders for gutters. Its long part is fixed on the side of the rafter leg, and on the short curved shelf there is a mounting platform for fixing a short plastic holder.

This fastening method sometimes becomes the only way to fix the brackets with a previously laid roofing without damaging its surface. For example, if the roofing material on the overhang protrudes 120÷150 mm beyond the line of the ends of the rafters, and there is no desire to fix the brackets to the edge of the roof or the coating does not provide such an opportunity.

There are other ways to install a drainage system with a previously covered roof:

• So, if it is necessary to arrange a drainage system that already has covered slopes, the brackets can be fixed directly to the wall surface, carefully taking measurements and markings.
• Hooks are sometimes attached to a securely installed soffit if it is the appropriate width. In this case, the hook brackets are fixed to metal L-shaped profiles screwed to the surface of the soffit, similar to the picture shown above.
• If there is no frontal board, or the soffit is too narrow, then the option of driving special metal pins into the wall is chosen; they can be straight or L-shaped. The end of the pin driven into the wall must have a sharp end. If the wall is concrete or brick, then first a hole of the appropriate diameter is drilled in it, into which a pin is embedded. To do this, the hole is filled concrete mortar, after which a pin is driven into it. In this case, before proceeding with the installation of gutters, you must wait until the solution has completely hardened.

If you plan to lay the gutter on pins driven into the wall, then their installation must also be marked so that the required slope towards the funnel is ensured drainpipe.

• Pull-up pendant mount not so popular compared to the options described above, but sometimes you can’t do without such a design. This bracket has special bends, one of which picks up the front side of the gutter, and the second is put on the rear edge of its wall. In addition, the holder contains a sleeve with internal thread, through her, and also top part gutter walls, a fastening element is screwed into the wall or frontal board.

This type of fastening can be used to fix the drain both on the front board and on the ends of the rafter legs.

If such fastenings are chosen, then the gutter must be covered on top with a protective mesh, which will prevent large debris from entering it. Otherwise, fallen leaves may linger on the bridges, collecting dust and dirt that flows down with water with roof, and over time a plug forms in the gutter. To prevent water from overflowing due to accumulated dirt, a protective mesh is needed.

By the way, you can note that such an element of the system will not be superfluous in any drain.

Parameters of gutters and the angle of their installation

Having chosen the type of brackets and the method of securing the gutter system, before going to the store to buy it, you need to decide on the size of the gutter. It must correspond to the slope and parameters of the roof slope, otherwise water will overflow over its edge during heavy rain.

In addition, you need to decide on the cross-section of the pipes into which storm water will flow from the gutter, since if you purchase a pipe of insufficiently large diameter, it may not cope with the flows, and the water will flow over the edge of the gutters - onto the walls and under the foundation.

To determine the diameter, you need to decide in advance how many drainage pipes will be installed on one roof slope. There are certain standards in this regard. So, if the length of the eaves of the slope is up to 12 meters, then it will be enough to install one funnel with a vertical drain pipe. For longer cornices, from 12 to 24 meters, you will have to install two pipes - at the corners of the building.

So, in order to determine the size of the elements of the drainage system, it is necessary to determine the catchment area. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the corner of the eaves to the middle of the gable side of the house - this parameter is indicated in the above diagram by the letter Y, as well as the length of the eaves line - X, and then find their product, which will determine the drainage area of ​​one roof slope.

As you can see in the drawing, a gutter up to 12 meters in size has a slope in one direction, at the bottom of which the drainpipe is mounted.

If the length of the slope is more than 12 meters, then it is necessary to find the middle of the cornice and two gutters from it, sloping towards the corners of the building, where the gutters are installed.

Gutter slope gutters should be 3÷5 mm for each linear meter of gutter length.

Now it’s worth figuring out what sizes of gutter and drain pipe you need to choose, taking into account the calculated catchment area.

If the catchment area is known, then to determine the dimensions of the elements of the drainage system, you can use the following table, which indicates the necessary basic parameters and provides other options for the location of the drainage system with one drain pipe.

Drain pipe location	Dimensions of the main elements of the drainage system
	Gutter -75 mm, drain pipe 63 mm	Gutter -100 mm, drain pipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 110 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 63 mm	Gutter -150 mm, drain pipe 110 mm
	The size of the catchment area, m²
	95	148	240	205	165	370
	48	74	120	100	82	180
	42	50	95	80	65	145

Other elements of the drainage system

Now, having understood the principles and methods of installing a drainage system, and how to correctly calculate the dimensions of the gutter and pipe, it is worth considering the functions of the remaining structural elements.

So, in addition to drainpipes, gutters and brackets for them, the drainage system consists of the following parts, each of which plays its own important role in the design:

• A plastic retainer with a rubber or polymer gasket used to seal the joints of individual gutters. Typically, these parts will be necessary in two-pipe drainage systems or if the pipe is planned to be placed in the middle of the length of the wall, and the gutters are installed at an angle to it on both sides.
• The corner element is used in systems where the pipe is not located at the corner of the building, but on its front side, that is, the gutter turns around the corner of the house.
• The plug is a semicircular or square cover, depending on the shape of the gutter, installed on its two sides at the ends.
• A drain or outlet funnel is connected to the drain gutter on one or both sides, depending on the chosen installation scheme. The lower part of the funnel is hermetically connected to the vertical drain pipe.
• An elbow is a part designed to create bends on a drainpipe. If the wall is flat, then an elbow can be installed to move the pipe away from its surface and at the bottom to drain water away from the base of the house. If the gutter and drainpipe are located along the edge of the overhang, which has big enough width, due to which it is located far from the wall, and the lower part of the pipe fits vertically into it, then the elbows may not be used at all.
• Brackets for fixing the drainpipe to the wall. These elements are made in the form of steel clamps in which the pipe is fixed.
• Fasteners - these can be self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. They are selected depending on the material of the surface on which the gutter and drainpipe holders will be attached.

• Holder brackets for gutters are installed at a distance of 500÷800 mm from each other. Therefore, you need to measure the length of the cornice and select the optimal installation step.
• Clamp brackets for holding drainpipes are fixed on or into the wall with a pitch of 1200÷1500 mm.
• The number of drain funnels is calculated taking into account the selected scheme. There can be two or one of them installed on each slope.
• Self-tapping screws are consumable parts, and they need to be purchased with a reserve, taking into account the fact that at least two pieces must be planned for each bracket. A good owner will always find a use for the surplus.

• For each of the joints of the individual parts of the gutter, special rubber connectors and roofing sealant must be provided. It is also used to seal end caps.

Installation of a drainage system

Tools required for work

A few words need to be said about the tools that will be required to install the drain. It is necessary to correctly understand that the set of tools may vary depending on what material the drainage structure is made of - metal or plastic. So, for work you will need:

• Hacksaw for metal or wood. The latter, in principle, is also suitable for cutting plastic, but the edge will not be very neat and will have to be cleaned.
• Shears for cutting sheet metal.
• Hammer and (or) – for fastening structural parts
• Hammer for drilling holes in brick or concrete wall for installing clamp brackets for the drainpipe (if this installation method is chosen).
• Pliers will be necessary for metal structures.
• A rubber hammer (mallet) will be required when installing the plugs.
• Building level, metal corner, tape measure and pencil, long cord - for marking operations.
• Reliable step ladder or scaffolding– for convenience of work and ensuring its safety.

In this same section, you should immediately clarify why it is recommended to cut elements of drainage systems using a hacksaw or metal scissors, and in no case with a grinder (grinder). The durability of drainage systems, both metal and plastic, directly depends on this circumstance.

When making a cut with a grinder, the metal or plastic becomes very hot. This leads to burnout of the anti-corrosion layer in the cut area of ​​the metal and melting of the plastic, which reduces the resistance of the material to external influences. For example, polymer protective layer, applied to a metal pipe or gutter, can begin to peel off at a distance of even up to 50 mm around the cut, which will make the metal practically defenseless against moisture.

That is why it is best to listen to the recommendations of the masters and cut the parts drains only with those tools that are indicated above.

We believe that everything necessary for installing a drainage system has already been prepared. You can proceed to consideration of installation work.

Sequence of installation work - step by step

So, if the roofing pie is already installed, the most widespread An option for fixing the drain is to fix short holders on the wind board. Moreover, it should be noted that many roofers consider the short version of hooks to be more reliable than long brackets. In addition, they have several other advantages:

• There is no need to bend the short holders, as they are already ready for installation.
• If it is necessary to repair the gutter, this type of bracket is easier to remove, since you do not have to resort to dismantling part of the roofing. Therefore, you can do the work yourself without calling in the experts.
• The cost of short holders is slightly lower than the price of long brackets.

Any installation work, including the installation of a drainage system, begins with marking the surface where the brackets for the gutters should be fixed. To make it easier, it is recommended to first draw up a drainage plan. In this case, we will consider a system with one funnel and a drainpipe.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	Marking begins by determining the installation point of the first bracket, which will be fixed at the top of the slope. It should be located at a distance of 50÷100 mm from the edge of the wind board. Next, a nail is driven into this point so that a cord can be tied to it. After this, using a tape measure, you need to measure the distance from the top edge of the front board to the driven nail. The same distance is determined and marked on the other side of the wind board, where the drainpipe is planned to be installed. Using a cord, you need to beat off a perfectly horizontal line along the entire frontal board. To make the task easier, you can take tinted paint cord. A cord tied to a nail is stretched along the length of the wind board to a mark made on the opposite side.
	Next, focusing on the drawn horizontal line, you need to mark off the slope line using the same colored cord. In order to determine the specific value of the slope, which should be 4÷5 mm per linear meter of the cornice, you need to determine its exact length of the slope. For example, it is seven meters. This means that at the end of the frontal board the inclined line will drop from the horizontal by 28÷35 mm. At the end point of the line, the found value is measured from the horizontal, the second end of the cord is pressed against it, and an inclined line is drawn. The marking can be done a little differently. Having found the desired point, the bracket is immediately fixed in it, and the cord is already tied to it. The remaining actions are carried out in the same way as in the first markup option. The next step is to mark the location of the brackets on a flat horizontal line, and from it a projection is made onto an inclined line. The installation step of the holders is chosen arbitrarily, but it should not exceed 600 mm (unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer).
	The next step is to fix two brackets at the two extreme points of the marking, between which a cord is pulled, which will help secure the intermediate holders exactly along the intended line. Thus, the crosshairs of the projection from a horizontal line to an inclined one, as well as the stretched cord, will indicate the exact point of attachment for fixing the hooks.
	Next, the intermediate brackets are fixed. For each of them you need to prepare two or three self-tapping screws. Their number may be greater - it is recommended to use all the holes provided by the manufacturer to secure the bracket. The intermediate brackets are installed and screwed so that they come into contact with the cord in the same parts as the outer holders.
	After the holders are screwed to the wind board, the cord must be removed and once again checked that the hooks are installed correctly. The edge of the roof should hang over the gutter by ⅓ of its width - this way the water will fall directly into the gutter without overflowing its edge.
	Next, you need to check the distance between the roofing and the edge of the bracket. To do this, you can put a batten on the roof and lower it from the overhang to the edge of the hook, the distance between them should be 30÷40 mm. This parameter is important because if the edge of the bracket is lowered, water flowing from the roof will overflow over its edge, and if it is raised higher, then in the spring, snow sliding off the covering will form a plug in the gutter groove. In this case it is convenient metal version bracket, since if necessary, it can be slightly bent or, conversely, raised.
	The next step, according to a pre-drawn diagram, is to mark the hole on the gutter for installing the funnel and drainpipe. The hole size must match the diameter of the drain pipe. Then, along the marked lines, using a hacksaw for metal, two cuts are made at a certain angle, so that they converge at one point, as shown in the illustration.
	Next, the holes need to be adjusted - rolled to the diameter of the pipe. This operation is performed using pliers.
	The edges of the hole are slightly curved outward - this will create a better seal when installed in the pipe hole. You need to work with pliers very carefully, trying to damage the protective and decorative coating of the metal as little as possible.
	The next operation is to attach a funnel to the hole in the gutter and hook it with the folded edge. The other edge of the funnel has “ears” that need to be bent inside the gutter. This is done in such a way that when installing the gutter into the brackets, the bend is located on the side of the wall and is bent away from it. This way, you will get the most reliable connection between two parts - the gutter and the funnel. Here it is necessary to clarify that in some drainage systems, a special latch is provided on the funnels, with which it is fixed to the gutter. This modification of this element makes installation simpler, but the cost of systems with latches is also higher.
	The next step is cutting the seals for the side plug of the gutter with a fixed funnel. The seal can be made of rubber or polymers; in any case, it must be sufficiently plastic, bend easily and take the shape of a semicircle of the plug. Seals can come complete with the drainage system or they can be purchased separately in the same stores that sell gutters.
	Next, the seal must be placed in the grooves along the edge of the plug that will be adjacent to the gutter. When laying it, you need to make sure that there are no gaps between the rubber and metal. First, one plug is prepared, since in the case under consideration the second side of this gutter will be joined to another segment going around the corner.
	The plug is then installed on the end of the gutter. Since the joint must be completely sealed, the plug with a seal installed in it can be quite difficult to put on the metal edge. In this case, a mallet will come to the rescue; you need to gently tap the plug with it. outside, along the bottom contour. Then it will fit tightly into place.
	Instead of rubber sealant, you can use roofing sealant, which is applied to the edge of the gutter before installing the cap. Then, another layer must be applied after combining them on the inside of the gutter, at the junction of these two elements.
	It must be said that for greater reliability, some craftsmen use both components for sealing, that is, they first install the seal, and then additionally apply a layer of roofing sealant from the inside of the gutter. While the sealant has not lost its plasticity, it is leveled with a finger dipped in a soap solution. Such a seal will not be visible from the outside and will not spoil the appearance of the drain.
	The next step is to install the gutters into the brackets attached to the wind board. Due to the fact that each section of the gutter has a standard length of 3000 mm, you need to calculate in advance how many such elements will be required for the entire cornice. To avoid cutting the gutter with the funnel and cap installed, it should be installed first. Having installed the gutter in the brackets, you need to gently press it so that the outer bend of the holder goes under the folded edge of the gutter. Exist different variants drains are shaped, but they are installed in brackets and snap into place almost identically.
	At the junction of two sections of gutters when they are installed in brackets, a clamp is installed under the joint, which has a rubber gasket and a special one that snaps into place. outer edge gutters, lock. Each subsequent gutter, when installed from the side of the funnel, is inserted inside the previously installed one - this will ensure free flow of water.
	The latch is wound on back wall joint and put on top of its edge. From the outer edge of the gutter it is snapped into place with a special clamp. To increase reliability, the inside of the gutter joint is covered with the same roofing sealant. Sealant is applied thin layer, and then smoothed with a finger, since it should not create obstacles to the flow of water.
	This illustration shows two ways to join two pieces of gutters or corner element system, if provided for by the project. The first of them is described above - this is a latch. And the second is the rivets that secure the clamp to the back and front walls of the gutters. However, to install them, you will have to prepare special tool. If a riveter is on the list of household tools, it will significantly speed up and simplify any installation work involving thin metal. The last section of the gutter is most often shorter than the rest and is much easier to install, but before installing it, a plug is also installed on its outer end - in the same way as shown above.
	You can strengthen the fastening of the gutter using a metal strip, which is attached with a self-tapping screw with a wide head or a rivet to the front edge of the gutter, on its inner side. The second edge of the strip is fixed on the roofing or on the wind board. In the second case, the strip will have to be bent a little. Metal strips can be cut from the remains of a gutter or pipe. Such strengthening of the system will help it withstand high snow load and spring ice. In addition to such braces, additionally, between the brackets for holding the gutters, hooks are screwed onto the wind board, hooked only to the rear edge. These elements will remove part of the load not only from the support brackets, but also from the braces.
	Now you can proceed to installing the vertical part of the drain. The first step is to install an elbow into the funnel installed on the gutter, which will determine the location of the vertical pipe relative to the wall. Usually you have to mount this element in order to bring the pipe closer to the wall for easier fixing. So, the pipe should be located at a distance of 60÷70 mm from the wall, since a standard clamp holder is designed for approximately this parameter.
	The elbow is placed on the end of the funnel, and then the distance between it and the second elbow is measured, which determines the vertical direction of the drainpipe. This is done in order to prepare a piece of pipe that will connect the two elbows. To the resulting value you need to add 35÷40 mm on each side, which are necessary for joining the elements.
	Next, the segment is put on top of the elbow installed on the funnel, and the second elbow of the structure is put on its other side. If you install the parts in this order, you can avoid leakage of the system at the junctions of these elements. The principle is simple - any part located above must fit inside the lower one.
	The next step is to determine the length of the vertical pipe, taking into account the fact that another elbow will be attached to its lower end, which will set the direction of the water flow passing through the drain. However, it is also necessary to take into account that 80 mm of the resulting size will be used to join the flat section of the drain with the knees. Another point that needs to be taken into account is that the standard length of the pipe, as well as the gutter, is 3000 mm, and the wall quite often exceeds this parameter. In this case, the pipe has to be assembled from two, and sometimes from three sections.
	Now you need to mark and install brackets for the vertical pipe into the wall or secure it to it. They are installed in increments of 1200÷1800 mm, however, if the vertical pipe consists of several sections, then their joints also need to be strengthened with clamps.
	However, the clamps are not mounted on the joint itself, but 100 mm below it. The vertical pipe is installed to the wall only after clamps have been secured to it, so that after connecting the individual sections, the drainage can be immediately fixed in the brackets.
	When assembling the pipe, its upper edge is put on the lower end of the elbow installed in the upper part. Then, the bottom edge of the upper section of pipe is inserted into the next section. In order for one section of the pipe to easily fit into another, it is recommended to narrow it slightly through bends, which can be made using pliers. You need to work carefully, trying not to damage the coating. Naturally, this manipulation can only be performed if the drainage system is made of metal. The plastic will immediately crack if you try to bend it in this way.
	To complete the installation of the pipe, the lower elbow is put on its lower edge and fixed with a bracket. This element is usually located at a height of 150÷300 mm from the blind area. If a drainage system is planned to be installed or has already been installed under the drainage pipe, or storm drain, then the distance between it and the blind area can be reduced to 100 mm. And often the pipe completely enters the storm drain.

So, methods for installing drainage systems after covering the roof were considered. Knowledge of the nuances of calculation and information about what fasteners are used for such structures, you can choose the best option. Such that to the maximum extent will suit the specifics of the roof structure, will suit the craftsman in terms of complexity of execution and financial capabilities.

• Bracket for gutter (hook). It is attached in several places to the bottom of the eaves or roof sheathing and holds the gutter.
• Gutter It is mounted on the above-mentioned brackets and serves to collect flowing water from the roofing material and then move it further along the drain. Gutters are semi-circular, semi-square and embossed.
• Gutter angles. There are internal and external. They guide gutters along the perimeter of roof slopes of a complex structure.
• Gutter plug. Closes the end of the gutter where the roof slope ends.
• Gutter connector. It connects the ends of the gutters together to continue the drainage.
• Gutter funnel. It is attached under the gutter in the place where water will flow from the gutter into the drain pipe.
• Funnel mesh. The mesh is placed in the funnel so that the funnel does not become clogged with leaves falling in autumn and, as a result, does not disrupt the functioning of the organized drainage system.
• A drain pipe. A vertical pipe through which water flows from a funnel.
• Drain elbow. A pipe bent at an angle is designed to allow the drainage system to bypass various protruding elements of the building's architecture.
• Connecting pipe. Connects two pipes or two drain elbows (the lower elbow must be directed downward in order to further attach the drain pipe to it).
• Clamp. Attaches to the wall and holds the pipe. There are two types: for brick and wooden walls.
• Drain. Very similar to the knee. Is the tip of the pipe in the drain.

Naturally, all this comes with self-tapping screws that secure the brackets and clamps of the roof drainage system. They always come complete with drainage elements.

According to the material, drainage systems are:

• Plastic. They insulate well from noise, are not subject to corrosion, are quite elastic, and are resistant to chemical exposure, but not very durable due to low strength. Another advantage plastic drain– ease of installation (even if you scratch the plastic, nothing bad will happen);
• Metal. Metal cannot be scratched; it will be visible and, as a result, unsightly. But metal drainage is a fire-resistant, destruction-resistant material. But there are also disadvantages: the metal is susceptible to corrosion and does not absorb noise well.

The installation of roof drains is an integral part of the construction of any building.

The drainage system is used to prevent rapid damage to the walls, foundation and other elements of the house.

Each building contains the main components: foundation, walls and roof. Over time, materials deteriorate, and this is due not only to the years, but also external factors: rain, snow and hail.

The drainage device is divided into 3 groups:

1. An organized system is a set of gutters, funnels and vertical pipes through which water flows into a sewer or well.
2. Disorganized system - lack of special structures. In this case, water simply drains from the roofs, thereby damaging the roof, walls and foundation.
3. The internal system provides for the outflow of water into the house.

Materials from which gutters are made

Before deciding what material the system will be made of, you need to pay attention to the roof.

Production and cost of gutters

The production of gutters is usually partially or fully automated. Drainage systems are manufactured from non-toxic, durable materials. At the same time, a lot of attention is paid to design: after all, the drain is an integral component of the exterior of the house. Thanks to the variety of colors, shapes of gutters and pipes, as well as various materials, drainage systems can satisfy any customer needs.

The cost of organized drainage depends mainly on two factors:

1. Brand. In addition to the brand, the products of each manufacturer differ in quality.
2. Material protective coating. The most expensive, but also the highest quality and most durable are drains made of metals, including aluminum, copper, steel and galvanized drains. The best option Copper is considered, since it is not afraid of corrosion and small scratches that are simply not noticeable on it. One of the cheapest, but not the most the worst material is PVC.

Before choosing a drainage system, you can consult with a specialist from a construction company or designer, since drainage is one of the main components of the appearance of a structure.

Roof drainage is a mandatory system when constructing buildings. Her main responsibility is to collect and remove rainwater away from the foundation. melt water flowing down the roof slopes. Typically, the drainage system begins to be assembled during the construction of the roof structure before the sheathing is assembled. Although situations often occur when the roof is already covered with roofing, but the drainage has not been assembled. As an example, you can replace an old drainage system with a new one.

Before moving on to the topic of the article, let’s consider what the elements of a drain are and what materials they are made from today.

What is a gutter

The system consists of two main elements:

1. Gutters (trays), which are mounted under the overhang of the eaves.
2. Pipes that are attached to the walls of a building in a vertical position.

Additionally, the composition includes:

Gutter material

More recently, the main raw material from which gutters were made was metal, or more precisely, galvanized sheet. Even earlier, gutters were made from ordinary steel sheet, which was painted. The latter gradually went out of circulation. Galvanization is still used today because the material has a presentable appearance, copes well with natural loads and has good technical characteristics.

Scientific and technological progress does not stand still, and today the question of what to make a drain from means the possibility of choosing from several materials. To pure galvanization, galvanized metal is added, coated polymer composition, and purely plastic. Let's look at their pros and cons.

Plastic

The big advantage of plastic is that the material does not undergo corrosion processes when it comes into contact with water. Hence the long service life. Other advantages of a plastic drainage system include:

• Possibility of operation under almost any temperature conditions;
• one hundred percent inertness to ultraviolet radiation;
• presentable appearance, indicated by enormous possibilities in terms of color design;
• ease of construction.

The only thing they're afraid of plastic products- shock loads, under the influence of which they crack and become unusable.

About plastic brackets. It will not be possible to bend them and give the necessary shape to the fastening. In this regard, metal ones are better, they are easier to customize. Therefore, when installing plastic brackets, it is necessary to accurately install them on the frontal board, taking into account the landing site and the height of the roof overhang. True, today manufacturers offer adjustable products in which you can change the angle of inclination using a hinge joint. A good option that has proven that it is the most convenient in the category of plastic brackets.

Metal with polymer coating

In terms of their characteristics and service life, the products will not be inferior to plastic ones. But there is one serious drawback - the polymer layer itself. It is not strong enough and can easily be scratched or peeled off with a little force using a sharp tool. Therefore, it is important not to spoil the protective polymer coating when installing a roof drain.

There is no protective layer even in a tiny area, you get a defect through which metal sheet water begins to penetrate. The consequence is metal corrosion and reduced service life.

Other options

It should be noted that on the market you can find exclusive water drainage systems made from alloys of copper or aluminum, titanium and zinc. Firstly, the products are marked by long-term operation of the structure and increased reliability. Secondly, a design approach to solving the problem of decorating the facade of a house. But exclusive gutters are not cheap, so the general mass of consumers rarely purchase them.

Types of brackets

This fastener is available in three varieties on the market:

Methods for installing gutters

In this section we will not talk about how to properly install gutters. Here we denote the situations that arise during the construction of this system. The first situation is installation, when the rafters are installed, but the sheathing is not installed.

It's simple, correct option. The brackets are attached to the rafter legs, usually on top of the top plane, but it can be done from the side, from below, bending the devices to the required angle. Side fastening can be used if the rafter thickness is at least 50 mm and the width is at least 150 mm. Often the installation is carried out on the first sheathing element at the eaves, which is also considered the correct approach to the construction of a drain.

If the roofing material has already been laid on the roof and secured, then the methods for attaching the brackets are as follows::

Rules and stages of installation of a drainage system

Before installing the gutter, you need to prepare everything. A drainage system is purchased. What is included in it was described above. Now you need to decide on the quantity of each element.

The number of gutters is determined by the length of the slopes. They have a standard length of 3 m. For example, if the length of one slope along the eaves is 10 m, then you will have to buy 4 trays. The latter must be cut to the required size.

The number of vertical pipes depends on the height of the building, the distance of the drain to the ground and the length of the slopes. Here are the following positions: the distance from the ground to the end of the drain is 25 cm, the distance between the risers is 12 m. The standard length of one drain pipe is 3 m. For example, the height of the wall to the roof overhang is 4 m. We subtract the length of the drain pipe from this size and 25 cm to the ground. The resulting pipe riser length is 3.5 m.

Regarding the number of risers. The maximum distance between them is 12 m.

1. The length of the slope is 10 m; you can install one riser at one end and direct the gutters in its direction.
2. The length of the slope is more than 12 m, but not more than 24 m; two risers are installed at the edges of the roof, which means their total length is 7 m.
3. The length of the overhang is more than 24 m, three drainage risers are installed.

Regarding the remaining elements of the drainage system.

Dimensions of drainage system elements

Dimensional parameters of trays and pipes – important criterion, which determines the effective operation of the entire structure. Because the roof and the drain are united by one factor - water flowing along the roof. The larger its volume, the larger cross-section the elements should be selected. Incorrect selection leads to water overflowing over the edges, and these are the walls and foundation being poured.

There are certain standards that use the ratio of the area of ​​the roof slope and the diameters of pipes and trays. They are shown in the table.

Here it is necessary to understand that the selection of sizes of system elements depends only on the area from which water drains into them. For example, the length of the slope is 24 m, which means that 2 risers are installed along its edges. The total area of ​​the slope will have to be divided by “2”. It is this parameter that must be taken into account when selecting the dimensions of the tray and pipe.

Preparing tools

Before installing gutters, you need to prepare your tools. Depending on the choice: plastic or metal, the complete set of the tool arsenal depends.

So, you will need:

• hacksaw for metal;
• metal scissors;
• hammer drill for drilling walls for fastening risers;
• screwdriver
• long cord, tape measure, pencil;
• level, plumb;
• pliers;
• mallet, hammer;
• ladder.

It is prohibited to cut metal gutters with a grinder, so it was not included in the list of required tools. At high speed rotation of the cutting disc, cutting metal is accompanied by the release of high temperature. This leads to disruption of the protective zinc layer. This means that the cut site is an area that will quickly begin to corrode. Regarding plastic, where the grinder is cut, the material melts, losing its properties and parameters.

Installation sequence

Everything is ready, you can move on to installation work. The drain is a gravity-flow system, so it is important to correctly position the gutters at a certain angle. Its value is 3–5 mm per meter of length of the gutter structure. For understanding, let’s denote that one end of a tray 1 m long should be 3–5 mm lower than the other. For example, the length of the roof slope is 10 m, one edge of the gutter structure relative to the other should be 3–5 cm lower.

Based on this, marks are made at the corners of the slope, where the locations of the two outer brackets are determined. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the front board or nails are driven in, between which a strong cord is pulled. This will be the hook installation line.

How to do it correctly to accurately determine the installation locations of the two outer hooks.

1. The first top one is installed from the bottom edge of the roofing material at a distance of 4–5 cm.
2. The exact distance is measured from the nail driven into the designated point to the edge of the roofing material.
3. The resulting size is transferred to the other edge of the slope with the addition of a slope based on the length of the overhang.

Experienced craftsmen do not always use nails or screws to install the cord. They immediately attach the brackets, avoiding unnecessary operations. If both outer brackets are screwed to the supporting base, you can proceed to installing other hooks. It is important to install the latter so that they are oriented relative to the cord with the same parts as the first two installed devices.

There is one more point that must be taken into account when installing brackets. The result should be such that the edges of the roofing material overlap the gutter by a maximum of one third of its width. It is this arrangement that can guarantee that the flowing water will accurately enter the tray without overflowing.

So, the brackets are installed exactly level, you can remove the cord and proceed to laying the gutters.

Installation of the grooved structure

In principle, you can start laying gutters from any side. It is recommended to start from the location of the downspouts. At this point, connections will be made between two systems: horizontal and vertical. The element connecting them is a funnel. Therefore, first the gutter is adjusted to the funnel and the place where the hole will be made in the tray is determined.

It is done with a hacksaw for metal. You just need to make an angle cut on both sides, taking into account the distance between the cuts, equal to the diameter of the pipe. It is recommended to process the cut edges so that there are no unevenness or burrs..

A plug is placed on the outer gutter. This can be done on an already installed structure. But it’s more convenient to do this before installation. The edge of the grooved part is inserted into the groove of the plug, where a rubber cuff is located inside, ensuring the tightness of the joint. Now the gutters can be laid alternately with the edges of each joint overlapping. The overlap size is 5–10 cm. Many manufacturers of plastic trays today offer connecting elements, which are gutters 25 cm long complete with rubber cuffs, like plugs. By inserting two gutters from different sides of the connecting device, you get a sealed joint.

Exactly the same designs are made for funnels. Using them, there is no need to cut holes in the gutters. The latter are simply connected by a funnel to each other. Simple and convenient.

Regarding the attachment of gutters to brackets. There are different fastening technologies. Two types are most often used:

• clamps with throwing the element through the gutter; previously they used ordinary wire;
• The clamps that hold the edges of the gutters together are flexible and hook-like.

Installation of drainage risers

The process can be described as follows: the risers are strictly aligned vertically and attached to the wall of the house with clamps. First, clamps are installed. From the center of the funnel pipe, you need to lower a vertical line along the wall with a plumb line. It is better to beat it on the wall surface. It is optimal to install fasteners of this type at the junction of two pipes, a pipe and a drain.

The first clamp is attached to the wall at a distance of 30–50 cm from the ground, taking into account the distance from the drain to the ground and the size of the drain pipe itself. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws into plastic dowels, so holes are made in the wall at the installation points, into which the latter are driven with a hammer.

Please note that the clamp should be located below any joint at a distance of approximately 10 cm.

The riser assembly itself involves installing pipes into clamps and connecting them together using sealant or special connecting pipe elements with rubber cuffs (double-sided couplings). In the first case, this is a socket connection, which is often used when assembling a sewerage system.

If the riser is located far from the wall, then it is connected to the funnel with two bends (elbows). Therefore, first, bends are installed on the funnel up to the wall, on which a vertical line is then drawn with its exact passage through the center of the section of the lower bend.

Sometimes two elbows do not connect to each other with pipes. The reason is the wide overhang of the roof. Between them you need to install a piece of pipe, which is cut from the pipe element of the riser. The distance between the branch pipes is measured, and 3–4 cm on each side is added to the obtained value. The allowances are the joining edges for fitting into the bends. Important - you need to correctly connect both outlets through the cut pipe to each other. First, the pipe section is put on the upper branch, that is, the elbow pipe should be inside it. Then the second elbow pipe is put on the second free end of the pipe section. The first one should be inside the second one. Both joints are treated with sealant.

Video instructions for DIY installation

Conclusion

So, we discussed the topic of how to properly install a drainage system. Manufacturing materials, elements and assembly technology were analyzed. Despite the apparent simplicity installation process, this is not an easy undertaking. It requires care and accuracy. The main thing is to accurately mark the location of the gutters. Because making a drain, that is, assembling it, is easier if the calculations and markings are done correctly.

Roof gutters are an important functional element of any roof. It is necessary to plan its installation, including the entire drainage system, at the design stage. The drainage system is quite complex because it consists of several elements, each of which performs its own function.

What is a drain and why is it so important to organize it correctly?

The roof is considered complete only after the gutters are installed. It performs very important functions:

1. Protection. This system drains water away from the walls and foundation of the building. In the absence of a drain high humidity due to water flowing from the roof, it causes destruction of the base, and this problem may appear after 5–10 years of operation of the house. And all due to the fact that water flowing from the roof penetrates the foundation into the soil, which is eroded.
2. Collecting water from the roof, both rain and melt. This water can be successfully used in the future for watering flowers and vegetable gardens. To collect, it is enough to direct the drainage gutter into a barrel or other container.
3. Home exterior decor. If you make a drainage system yourself, for example, from scrap materials, it can be made in the style of the exterior of the house, as well as in very unusual shapes.

The drain consists of:

• gutters - collects water from the roof slopes and directs it into pipes;

  The gutter collects water from the roof

• funnel or storm drain - is connecting element between the gutter and the pipe;

  Water enters the pipe through the drain funnel

• drainpipe - drains water into drainage system or water reservoir;

  A drainpipe drains water away from the walls

• corners and turns - allow you to mount a complete roof drainage system and bypass all protruding elements;
• plugs - installed in places where funnels are not provided, it is advisable to place them at the highest point of the system;

  Plugs are installed to prevent water from flowing out through a funnel.

• fastening elements.

All elements of the drainage system are required to be used

Types of drainage

The main purpose of a drain is to remove water from the walls and foundation. This means that such a system should be organized taking into account different features building, for example, the slope angle and roofing material.

By location

The drainage system of a building can be made in three options:

According to the material of manufacture

Gutters can be made from different materials:

1. Tree. To arrange a drainage system, you can use fir, larch and pine. Such a system will last about 10 years, but subject to proper care.
2. Galvanization. This material is popular because of its low cost. But it is very difficult to work with him. Therefore, if you want to make a drainage system yourself, you will first have to take care of purchasing special equipment. Service life is no more than 10 years, since the material is susceptible to corrosion.

   Galvanized drains rust quickly

3. Galvanized with polymer coating. Polymer coating significantly increases the service life of a galvanized drainage system, since it eliminates the shortcomings of the material.
4. Plastic. Material with a long service life, up to 25 years. The main advantages can be considered light weight, resistance to alkaline environment, availability. In addition, the plastic drain has noise-absorbing properties, which means the sound of rain will not irritate you. But the water in it must not be allowed to freeze, as this can lead to a pipe rupture.

   Plastic drainage is especially popular

5. Ceramics. The main advantage of a drainage system made from this material is its long service life. But experience with ceramics is required, so self-installation system can be difficult.
6. Concrete or cement. A type of ceramic drainage system that is cheaper and therefore more accessible. Among the disadvantages is the large weight, so concrete elements are used only as ground elements, for example, for constructing a trench.
7. Copper. The material is characterized by a long service life and low weight. But it is not available to everyone. The cost of such a drainage system may exceed the cost of the roof (unless, of course, similar material was used to cover the roof).

   Copper drainage is expensive, but will last more than a hundred years

8. Available materials. Plastic bottles are most often used, but this design can only be a temporary replacement for a full-fledged drainage system.

The choice of drainage based on this parameter depends on the roofing material and personal preferences.

Video: review of drainage systems

How to calculate drainage correctly

A drainage system can perform its functions efficiently only if it is calculated correctly. At the design stage, it is necessary to determine the diameter and number of gutters, drainpipes, the number and location of installation of funnels. The calculation sequence is as follows:

1. Collection of initial data. To calculate, you need to know the height of the house (from the ground to eaves overhang), the length of the eaves (it is advisable to measure each eaves of the slopes separately), the distance from the ground to the drain, the area of ​​the roof (first find the area of ​​each slope separately, and then add up the resulting values).
2. Selection of pipe diameter and gutter width. This value depends on the roof area - the larger it is, the more water the drain will have to be diverted. For roofs up to 70 m2, the gutter width should be 9 cm, the pipe cross-section should be 7.5 cm, for slopes with a total area of ​​up to 140 m2 - 13 cm and 10 cm, respectively. These values ​​are relevant if the riser is located at the edge of the slope or in its center. In the second case, the first values ​​are relevant for roofs up to 110 m2, the second - up to 200 m2. If two risers are installed, then these parameters correspond to a roof of up to 140 m2 and up to 220 m2, respectively.

   Diameter drain pipe and the width of the gutter depend on the amount of rainfall and the roof area

3. Counting the number of gutters and corners. The calculation is carried out according to the formula: N gutters = L + 3.0 m, where: L is the total perimeter of the cornice. Taking into account the fact that on construction market Products are presented in a standard length of 3 m; you can easily calculate the required number of gutters. For example, the length of the slope is 5 m, there are 2 such slopes, which means the total perimeter is 10 m. The length of the gutters is 10 m + 3 m = 13 m, which means 13:3 = 5 pieces.

   Downpipes can be placed at the edge of the eaves or in its center

4. Counting the number of plugs, connectors and brackets. The number of plugs depends on the number of gutter systems - 2 plugs per completed gutter system. The number of connectors is calculated using the formula N connectors = N gutters -1. You also need to calculate the number of brackets. It depends on the installation step. The calculation formula is as follows: N brackets = (L gutter a-0.3)/i+1, where L gutter is the length of the gutter on the eaves for which the calculation is being made, i is the fastener installation step. The installation step depends on the material of the drain. For example, for metal products this parameter is 60 cm, and plastic - 50 cm.
5. Determining the number of funnels. It corresponds to the number of risers and pipes. They are determined by the formula N pipes = (H-0.25-Н lsh + L inserts)/L tr, where H is the distance from the eaves to the ground, N lsh is the height of the “swan neck” (an element for draining the pipe from the eaves to wall, consists of two elbows with different angles of inclination), L tr - the length of the drainpipe itself (3 or 4 m), L insert - the length of the insert into the “swan neck”.
6. Slope calculation. The optimal slope is 5 cm per meter of the system.

   The slope of the gutter must be sufficient for water to drain on its own.

Video: calculation and installation of plastic drainage

Features of organizing drainage from pitched and flat roofs

It is necessary to organize water drainage both from the slope and from the flat roof. But there are some features of the arrangement.

Drainage device from a pitched roof

The drainage system of a pitched roof consists of several elements. First of all, you need to properly organize the drainage of water from the roof. On pitched design There are three weak points that need special attention:

Flat roof drainage device

The problem with drainage from a flat roof is draining the water directly into the drain. To do this, funnels are mounted not on the eaves, but on the roof itself. Therefore, the only question is how to make water flow into these funnels. For this purpose, a ramp is arranged. In this case, the funnel is located at the lowest point of the roof, and the angle of inclination of the roof in its direction should be more than 3%. For the reliability of the drainage system, there must be several funnels, because they tend to get clogged.

A flat roof drain consists of a system of funnels

There are several types of funnels:

• models with flat lid suitable for roof terraces;
• models with mesh that prevent leaves and other debris from getting into the funnels;
• for insulated and non-insulated roofs.

There are two ways to drain water from a flat roof:

Video: internal drain funnels

In the absence of proper maintenance, the reliability of the drainage structure decreases over time. Therefore, it is so important to carry out periodic preventive inspections of the system, clean it in a timely manner and repair damage.

Care and protection

Features of care depend on the material used to manufacture the system:

1. Galvanization needs protection from corrosion. There are special compounds, the treatment of which will protect galvanized elements of the drainage system from rust and corrosion.
2. Painted gutters require periodic inspection and painting over chips and scratches.
3. Plastic elements of the system may be damaged, which means you need to immediately replace the missing part.

Fastening elements may also be damaged. Usually the reason is strong wind. If the brackets that hold the gutter are damaged, all the water from the roof will flow past it and onto the walls as the gutter tilts. That is why it is recommended to monitor the condition of fasteners and replace them if necessary.

Where to drain water from the roof

There are several options for where you can drain water from the roof:

1. In containers, for example, barrels or tanks. This option is chosen by owners of plots with greenhouses where drip irrigation is installed. If desired, a barrel for collecting rainwater can be decorated, which means making it creative decor personal plot.

   Storm drains do not carry water far enough from the foundation. Storm drains at home. Storm drains do not carry water far enough from the foundation.

2. Into the drainage system. It consists of connected pipes that direct water to a safe place, that is, away from the building. For example, into a well-equipped drainage pit.

   The drainage system will reliably protect the foundation of the house from destruction

3. Domestic waste system. In order to divert rainwater into the sewer system, you need to obtain a special permit.

Gutter cleaning

Full functioning of the drainage system is possible only if it is cleaned in a timely manner. It is better to do this twice a year. There are several ways:

What to do if the drain joints are leaking

Over time, water begins to seep through the joints of the gutters. This problem needs to be resolved as quickly as possible. It's easy to do:

1. If the drainage element is not damaged, then it can be dismantled, degreased and reinstalled using sealants.
2. A patch will also help eliminate the leak, provided that there is no damage to the drain. You can use metallic tape for this. Before applying the patch, the surface of the drain must be thoroughly cleaned and degreased. For the patch, you can use fiberglass, which is mounted on epoxy resin.
3. Replace the leaking unit. Sometimes the entire drainage system needs to be replaced. Most often this concerns metal products that have been damaged by corrosion.
4. Provide the desired angle. Perhaps the water simply stagnates in the gutter and begins to leak not only through the seams, but also through the sides of the gutter.

Sometimes you just need to clean out your gutters because debris is preventing water from flowing down the drain.

Video: how to clean a roof drain

How to close a drain for the winter

The first step in preparing your drain for winter is cleaning it. If you ignore this, the ice can cause pipes to collapse, as well as cause water to splash onto the ice in the gutter.

Heating the gutter will prevent icing

Helps prevent icing electrical cables heating

It is not necessary to close the gutters for the winter; it is enough to clear the gutters of snow in a timely manner.

The roof drainage system will perform protective function only on condition correct installation and calculation, as well as careful care and timely care. You should also not skimp on drainage parts, in particular brackets, connectors and other parts. And then not only will the drainage system not have to be repaired, but also the foundation and walls will not need to be repaired long time require major repairs.