Cabbage are good neighbors in the garden. Vegetables: the best neighbors in the garden. Schemes of simultaneously sown plants

The issue of plant compatibility in gardens, orchards and flower beds has always interested people. When laying out a garden or planting plants in a vegetable garden, you must know how the plants will influence each other.

Vegetables

If you plant lettuce, spinach, radishes, cucumbers, tomatoes, beets, celery next to white cabbage, you can sleep peacefully - these plants will find mutual language. But parsley cannot be planted next to cabbage.

Carrots can easily tolerate the proximity of onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, garlic, and peas, but they will be at odds with dill.

Celery will favorably accept white cabbage, cucumber, tomato, beets, beans, spinach, but will begin to wither next to carrots and parsley.

Beets are not at all a capricious neighbor; they like cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, spinach, and cabbage. She is also ready to be friends with radishes, radishes, onions, garlic, carrots and celery.

Onions can be safely planted next to carrots, beets, radishes, spinach, cucumber and dill, but move legumes away from them.

Garlic prefers the company of cucumbers, tomatoes, carrots, and beets, but grows poorly next to legumes and white cabbage.

The tomato is happy with the proximity of radishes, beets, carrots, parsley, garlic, legumes, but is afraid of dill, kohlrabi and fennel.

Fruit and berry crops

Particular attention should be paid to crop compatibility when planting fruit and berry crops and grapes. After all, these crops must grow in the same place for years, or even decades. If their placement is unsuccessful, plants can oppress each other throughout their lives, or even die.

Examples of mutual influence of some fruit and berry crops:

Rose, viburnum, jasmine oppress apple and pear trees;

Apple and cherry trees get along well nearby;

They try to plant apple and cherry trees further away from each other: the fact is that the roots of these crops have a depressing effect on each other;

If apple and pear trees are placed near the nut, they may die over time;

There should be no raspberry, gooseberry or currant bushes between apple and pear trees;

Cherries and pears are incompatible with currants;

Place different varieties of pears nearby - this way they grow and bear fruit better;

Pollination improves and the yield of cherries increases if cherries grow next to them, which are good pollinators for cherries;

Cherries grow well next to grapes without oppressing them;

Currants grow well and are not damaged by diseases and pests if there are hops nearby;

Raspberry thickets destroy red currant plantations;

Never plant a new tree in the place of an old one; step back at least 1.5-2 meters; At the same time, plant pome trees (apple tree, pear) next to the uprooted stone fruit tree (cherry, sweet cherry, plum).

Aromatic herbs

Aromatic herbs whose leaves give off a large number of volatile substances, for many garden plants are good companions. Their volatile secretions have a beneficial effect on vegetables growing nearby: they make them healthier, and in some cases significantly affect the taste. For example, fragrant basil improves the taste of tomatoes, and dill improves the taste of cabbage.

The well-known dandelion emits large amounts of ethylene gas, which accelerates the ripening of fruits. Therefore, its neighborhood is favorable for apple trees and many vegetable crops. Most aromatic herbs - lavender, borage, sage, hyssop, parsley, dill, savory, marjoram, chamomile, crevel - work well on almost all vegetables. Planted along the edges of beds or plots, white nettle (dead nettle), valerian, and yarrow make vegetable plants healthier and disease resistant.

Dynamic plants are those that have a good effect on everyone and everything, supporting general tone: nettle, chamomile, valerian, dandelion, yarrow.

“Tyrants” who oppress all “neighbors” without exception: fennel and wormwood. Everything around fennel really suffers. Him - to the fence.

“Helpers” for everyone are lettuce and spinach. They release substances that enhance the activity of roots and plants and shade the soil. So everyone is fed!

All umbelliferous plants “quarrel” with each other, except carrots: parsley, celery, parsnips, lovage, dill, cilantro. It is better to plant these apart.

It is useful to plant marigolds around a bed of herbs: they will provide excellent protection against pests.

To get rid of wireworms (the larva of the click beetle), plant beans next to carrots. No matter what part of your plot you plant your favorite root vegetables on, carrots are never spoiled by this pest.

Let's think together why mixed plantings are needed? This is when different crops grow not in separate beds, but in adjacent rows or mixed together.

In nature, there are no large areas occupied by one species. In the meadow there is always a mixture of herbs, in the forest there are not only different types of trees, but also shrubs, grasses, and mosses. Even in a field where only one crop is planted after plowing, weeds grow. We, too, can create a vegetable garden in which plants coexist.

Of course, there will be unwanted “aliens” here too, but they won’t cause much harm. This is because a rich, diverse ecosystem will be in balance! How to do this? The answer is simple - use the mixed planting method. To do this, you need to know which plants are good neighbors and plan the area to ensure that different crops are as close as possible. They should not grow in large masses, but in adjacent rows or holes.

Better at the border

It has long been noticed that plants grow better at the border of different ecosystems: at the edge of a forest, on the shore of a reservoir, at the edge of a field. To recreate the border effect I use a spiral bed. On it, the border is twisted into a spiral and there is room for many microclimatic areas: the higher, the drier and warmer, there is a shady and sunny side. I usually plant aromatic plants in a spiral bed. Here is a variant of the plant sequence: sorrel, valerian, onions, peppermint, clary sage, oak sage, garden thyme, oregano, garden strawberry, sage, cumin, rosemary.

You can simply alternate rows, checking the crop compatibility table. However, we must remember that the influence of plants on each other depends on the conditions in which they grow. Sometimes in large numbers they oppress neighbors, and in moderate numbers they are helpers. In general, you will need a creative approach and your observations.

Culture compatibility

First of all, select a main crop (for example, tomatoes). Then choose a neighbor that has a beneficial effect on the main plant. In our case, it could be lettuce or spinach - they will produce a harvest before the tomatoes begin to bear fruit. Tall tomato plants will protect the greens from direct sunlight and create a more favorable microclimate for them. Lettuce can be sown again after harvesting. It is worth planting aromatic herbs nearby that repel pests. You just need to make sure that they don’t drown out the main culture.

Consider the timing of crop ripening. If you harvest one crop early, it is worth finding a replacement plant for it. You can't leave the ground bare. It is mulched and green manure is planted.

When choosing crops, you should pay attention to reducing competition between them. Plants with deep root systems will get along better with those with shallow roots; species with low nutritional requirements will not interfere with those who need a lot nutrients; tall, spreading crops will protect those that like light partial shade from the sun.

Only the neighbors' water needs should be similar.

Plants with deep root systems:
Eggplant, legumes (except peas), cabbage, leeks, carrots, parsnips, peppers, radishes, beets, celery root, tomatoes, pumpkin.

Plants with a shallow root system:
Lettuce, peas, potatoes, kohlrabi, watercress, corn, onions, cucumbers, parsley, leaf celery, radishes, melon, spinach.

Mixed plantings perform several functions: protecting plants from diseases and pests, increasing yield per unit area, protecting the soil from one-sided depletion, reducing the number of weeds. Fruits and vegetables growing in community with other species taste better: mint improves the taste of potatoes, parsley improves the taste of tomatoes.

If you choose the right plants, they will help each other and delight the owner. Exactly this efficient use your piece of land.

I have been using compaction of crops and joint planting in my garden for a long time. I sow carrots through the row with onions, plant beds with cabbage with savory, and potatoes with beans. And such nursery plants as calendula, marigolds and nasturtium grow throughout the garden.

Cauliflower in marigolds.

"Communal" for celery

I decided to compact the plantings of Brussels sprouts, broccoli and early cabbage by planting celery root between them. These cultures go well together. Cabbage stimulates the growth of celery, which drives white butterflies away from the cabbage.

At first everything went like clockwork: both cabbage and celery developed perfectly. But in the second half of summer, where Brussels sprouts and celery grew, I saw that the former was noticeably ahead of its neighbor in growth. Soon the top leaves of the cabbage closed, and my celery was in the lower tier, in dense shade.

I looked after this “communal” bed especially carefully. The cabbage was good, but the celery became “sad” day by day.

I realized that I had made a mistake - it was impossible to plant late-ripening crops nearby. And if you decided to do this, then you had to leave such a distance between them so that everyone had enough space and light. My celery was clearly not getting enough of this. It never formed powerful rhizomes; we had to be content with only greenery.

Celery planted together with early cabbage is another matter! Already in July, all the heads of cabbage were cut off, and the celery remained the rightful owner in the garden. The conclusion suggests itself: any plants first need to create optimal conditions for development, namely: adequate nutrition, watering, lighting. And then the crops planted nearby can remain friends for a long time.

Who is friends with whom?

Everyone knows that onions and carrots are the best friends in the garden. One crop repels pests from another and vice versa. After the carrots have sprouted, I plant onion seedlings into the gaps found.

Sweet couple.

I fill the same gaps in the beets with lettuce. The bed of early radishes can be sown with green manure. But it is more economical to sow radishes directly between the rows of carrots. Carrots grow slowly, the seedlings remain low for a long time and cannot in any way shade the fast-growing radish. This way I get double harvest from one garden bed. I sow the seeds of early ripening dill into peas: after a while its tendrils will catch on the dill stems.

I sow beans along the perimeter of the potato plot. At first it is a little stunted in growth, but after digging up the potatoes it develops beautifully and manages to ripen. I add onions to the tomatoes - I plant the sets between the bushes, but only on the greens. After all, tomatoes grow quickly and greatly shade their neighbors.

Otherwise, someone will definitely start harassing their neighbor. In general, everything is like with people. How can one not remember the old saying: “Friendship is friendship, but tobacco is apart!”

Vegetable beds or why do plants need satellites?

Gardeners have long noticed that plants growing nearby influence each other. They highlight in environment different substances that their neighbors “like” or “dislike.” For example, they feel good next to early cabbage and tomatoes, late cabbage and early potatoes, tomatoes and celery, beans and potatoes.

Potatoes and cabbage.

Heals the soil and helps all crops leaf mustard, marigolds, calendula, basil. I plant them along the edge of the beds, at the entrance to the greenhouses.

There is another big plus in mixed plantings. This is a flight of our imagination. Let's get rid of the stereotype that cabbage should sit in even rows! I plant plants randomly (at the corners of a triangle, the contour of a circle), around - nasturtium with marigolds. And the garden bed looks festive. And the smell of flowers scares away butterflies.

Eggplants and marigolds.

I add several phacelia flowers to the cucumbers - and they attract pollinating insects with their smell. So simply the plot turns into a piece of paradise - a place where you can rest your soul.

I place satellite plants in row-spacings or in nests among the main crop. Such mixed plantings create a favorable background, increase resistance to diseases and even affect taste qualities fruits With mixed plantings, soil fatigue does not occur, and the number of pests is significantly reduced, since the smell of their “food” is interrupted by the smell of other plants. In addition, such beds create an ideal refuge for predatory insects that feed on garden pests.

Romance of onions and melons

I have my own method, proven over the years, of growing several crops in one bed. For example, onions with melons and watermelons. The harvest is excellent! In a garden bed (2-2.2 m wide), usually in April - early May (on the waning Moon), I plant onion seedlings along the edge in two rows with a distance of 40-50 cm between them. I place the next two-row from the first at a distance of 90- 100 cm.

At home I sow watermelon and melon seeds for seedlings. Then I carefully transplant the seedlings into open ground, in the center of the bed with onions, at a distance of 70-90 cm from each other. To prevent stress and illness, I treat onions and melons with a microbiological preparation and infusion wood ash(200 g per 10 liters of water). I water using a drip irrigation system. In mid-summer I harvest the ripened bulbs. After the ovary appears on the vines of watermelons and melons, I leave only 2-3 fruits per bush. They will grow large and tasty. Using the same technology, I add melons to winter garlic.

Text: garden portalhttp://agraruu.net/

But not many people know about such an interesting and effective method increasing the yield by combining the plant with other crops. What is best to plant next to tomatoes? we will tell you in the article.

The mutual influence of plants has been known for a long time. In the works of ancient botanists - Theophrastus, Pliny the Elder - there are references to the importance of plant interaction.

For the first time, a clear definition of this was given in the 19th century by the botanist A. Decandolle. He believed that substances released by some plants could negatively affect others.

100 years ago, the famous physiologist G. Molisch, studying this phenomenon, proposed using the term “ allelopathy", which means "mutual harm" in Greek. By this definition he meant not only harmful, but also beneficial interactions in the plant world.

Positive influence on each other among different cultures most often due to physiological factors.

1. Growing plants with shallow and deep root systems allows for rational use of the soil. In other words, you can grow more in a small area.
2. In cases where crops of different heights are placed on one or adjacent beds, space and quantity are optimally distributed sunlight. The result is a denser vegetation cover. This shades and improves the soil.
3. The “neighborhood” of plants with different development rhythms is effective.
4. Another important factor- need for water. In one bed you need to combine crops with the same watering requirements.
5. Plants - “friends” can perfectly protect each other from.

Taking these principles into account, we can determine list good neighbors for tomatoes. Best paired with them:

• carrot,
• cabbage,
• corn,
• radish,
• salad,
• beet,
• bush beans,
• spinach,
• celery,
• radish,
• asparagus,
• parsley,
• garlic,
• chives,
• basil,
• marigold,
• calendula.

As you can see, tomatoes have a lot of friends. So, garlic and radish will protect them from spider mite, onions from aphids and flea beetles, and marigolds and calendula in general from most pests. Tomatoes are sensitive to wind, so they will be protected between rows of tall crops such as corn or beans.

With combined sowings, tomatoes will feel great next to plants with a shallow and compact root system: carrots, radishes, beets, onions, garlic, and green crops.

Having learned about tomato preferences and learned how to combine tomatoes with different crops, gardening becomes more interesting. This practice develops ingenuity, observation, in a word, does not allow you to become sour.

Natalia Karpo, Russia, Rostov-on-Don, ©

In nature, everything is arranged in such a way that plants that grow nearby help each other. Or vice versa - they are fighting for a place in the sun. If you think that only weeds pose a danger to your garden, you are mistaken: nearby beds with “incompatible” plants can ruin the mood of any gardener.

Beans don't like having onions, peas, garlic, fennel or leeks next to them. Not best neighbors for beans and beets, kohlrabi or sunflower..

It is better not to sow potatoes next to tomatoes, peas, cucumbers, celery and pumpkin.

Tomatoes are against proximity to carrots, cauliflower, potatoes, fennel, beets and cucumbers.

Carrots go well with onions, garlic and leeks, as well as beans, peas, tomatoes and lettuce. . Potatoes and beets are also good neighbors, and radishes will not protest against “cohabitation” with cucumbers, cabbage, lettuce, tomatoes or peas.

Potatoes can coexist well with onions, cabbage, beans and corn, while cucumbers, onions and beans do well next to beets.

Lettuce can be safely sown next to radishes, strawberries or cucumbers, and beds with onions will do well near potatoes or carrots. Garlic grows better if tomatoes are grown next to it.

Cunning: garlic - best friend strawberries. With its aroma it repels strawberry pests. Plant garlic 40 cm from the strawberry bed. And if you plant garlic 60 cm from the tomatoes, the latter will not be attacked by rye, and the garlic itself will not be attacked by scab. Plant garlic next to potatoes, as it repels Colorado potato beetles!

Watercress grows well next to carrots, radishes, radishes and lettuce; it is undesirable for it to be adjacent to Asian salads and beets.

Bush beans feel great next to dill, cucumbers, cabbage, broccoli, kohlrabi, coriander, chard, radish, radishes, beets, calendula, celery, sunflowers, and tomatoes. You should not plant it next to peas, onions and green onions, chives and fennel.

Peas tolerate well proximity to fennel, nasturtium, calendula, coriander, carrots, radishes, radish, lettuce, celery and sunflower. Bad neighbors for it are bush beans, watercress, green and onion, chives and tomatoes.

For cucumbers, the proximity to many garden crops is favorable: beans, peas, basil, dill, fennel, white cabbage, kohlrabi, broccoli, coriander, marjoram, beets, lettuce, spinach, onions, sunflower and calendula. Bad neighbors for cucumbers are tomatoes, radishes, radishes, potatoes, and watercress.

Tomatoes grow well next to basil, beans, dill, watercress, green onions, carrots, radishes, radishes, lettuce, celery, chives, spinach, calendula and nasturtium. It is undesirable to be next to cucumbers, kohlrabi, fennel and sunflowers.

Kohlrabi grows well next to basil, beans, dill, cucumbers, coriander, carrots, parsley, radishes, radishes, beets, lettuce, celery, spinach, tomato, calendula and nasturtium. The proximity to watercress, turnips and onions is unfavorable for it.

Good neighbors for white cabbage and broccoli are peas, dill, cucumbers, carrots, chard, beets, celery, spinach, tomatoes, calendula and nasturtium. Do not plant cabbage next to watercress and onions.

Coriander grows well next to cucumbers, kohlrabi, broccoli, white cabbage, carrots, parsnips, lettuce and onions. Neighborhood with watercress, fennel and parsley has a negative impact on the state of the crop.

For green onions, proximity to basil, kohlrabi, broccoli, white cabbage, turnips, carrots, parsnips, parsley, calendula, celery, spinach, tomatoes and onions is favorable. Beans, peas, watercress, chard and beets are bad neighbors for green onions.

Chives, radishes, radishes, broccoli, cabbage, kohlrabi, watercress, peas, and beans are bad neighbors for onions.

Turnips grow well next to peas, dill, marjoram, chard, parsnip, radish, radishes, lettuce, celery, spinach and nasturtium. The proximity to tomatoes, kohlrabi and white cabbage is unfavorable for it.

The best neighbors for carrots are beans, peas, dill, watercress, onion and green onions, marjoram, chard, parsley, radish, lettuce, chives, spinach, tomatoes, sage and calendula. The neighborhood with beets is unfavorable.

Radishes and radishes grow well alongside watercress, chervil, nasturtium, chives, parsley, carrots, calendula, lettuce, spinach and tomatoes. It is not advisable to plant radishes and radishes next to cucumbers, basil and chard.

For beets, proximity to beans, dill, coriander, parsnips, lettuce, onions, zucchini, calendula and nasturtium is favorable.

The proximity to green onions, chard, parsley, chives, spinach and corn is unfavorable.

Parsley grows well next to carrots, radishes, radishes, onions and calendula. It is not advisable to grow parsley next to chervil, watercress, coriander and nasturtium.

Leaf and head salads They develop better next to beans, peas, dill, fennel, chervil, nasturtium, kohlrabi, white turnips, parsnips, radishes, radishes, calendula, chives, tomatoes, corn and onions. The proximity to parsley and celery is unfavorable.

Chives grow well next to kohlrabi, carrots, parsnips, celery, spinach, tomatoes, nasturtium and calendula. It is undesirable to be near beans, peas, watercress, broccoli, white cabbage, coriander and beets.

For celery, proximity to beans, kohlrabi, broccoli, white cabbage, turnips, green onions, parsnips, tomatoes and spinach is favorable. Celery should not be planted next to watercress, corn, lettuce or lettuce.

Spinach grows well next to beans, dill, kohlrabi, broccoli, cabbage, marjoram, radishes, radishes, lettuce, and tomatoes. The proximity to watercress, chard, and beets is unfavorable.

For zucchini, proximity to basil, beans, turnips, chard, radish, radishes, beets, onions, and nasturtium is favorable.

It is not advisable to plant zucchini next to cucumbers.

As a rule, in mixed crops, early-, mid- and late-ripening species and crops are combined, and the harvest is carried out sequentially, which frees up space for the development of the plants remaining in the bed. It is also possible to combine light-loving and shade-tolerant crops in compacted crops.

Along with traditional combinations garden crops you can try new ones. For example, plant along vegetable beds spice crops- dill, fennel, basil, essential oils which repel cabbage butterflies and carrot flies. You can prevent the invasion of nematodes in your garden by planting calendula along the beds, and get rid of aphids by planting nasturtium.

Growing onions and carrots together. These crops repel onion and carrot flies from the beds. For joint cultivation, onion sets and early varieties carrots, as well as winter onions and late varieties of carrots.

Below are other possible options for mixed crops.

• head lettuce and fennel;
• chicory and White cabbage late-ripening varieties;
• cabbage, leeks and fennel;
• lettuce and wintering onions;
• spinach, cabbage, tomato, bush beans and red beets;
• chard, carrots, cabbage and radishes;
• bush beans, tomato, cucumber, white cabbage, lettuce, celery and red beets;
• curly beans, tomato, cucumber and nas-turkey;
• fava beans, lettuce and kohlrabi;
• onions, carrots, endive lettuce, head lettuce, cucumber, dill and savory;
• leeks, bush beans, cauliflower and lettuce;
• tomato, celery, lettuce and white cabbage;
• carrots, leeks, peas, tomatoes, endive, chives, radishes and chard;
• red beets, bush beans, kohl rabi, lettuce, cucumber and peas;
• cabbage, potatoes, lettuce, celery, spinach, lettuce, leeks, and peas;
• cucumber, beans, peas, beans, celery, corn, beets, lettuce, white cabbage, fennel, dill, cumin and coriander;
• tomato, celery, parsley, lettuce, white cabbage and nasturtium;
• potatoes, cabbage, horseradish, peas, fava beans, caraway seeds and nasturtium.