The best neighbor for beets. Vegetables in the beds are “friends”. Compatibility of crops in the garden. The ability of some plants to repel harmful insects

Proper placement of plants in beds affects their yield more than it seems. The fact that some crops grow better if they are planted together, while others, on the contrary, interfere with each other, was also noticed by the Indians who planted pumpkin, beans and corn together. Now many gardeners and summer residents know about the successful and unsuccessful juxtaposition of vegetables in their garden beds. The table of “friends” and “enemies” of each vegetable has been studied in detail and is available to everyone.

Successful garden neighbors

Planting vegetables together not only makes full use of the available land, but also has a positive effect on the growth and productivity of both plants. As a nice addition, such beds will look very nice from the outside. Smart planning of a vegetable garden and the interaction of plants in it combines many nuances that have been studied by both scientists and farmers from their own experience.

It is known that many plants secrete chemical compounds that can either promote the growth of neighbors or suppress it. In addition, they can provide each other with protection from the heat, providing shade, enriching the soil, inhibiting the growth of weeds that are dangerous to another type, or repelling pests. Each crop has its own list of useful and harmful companions in the garden.

Benefits of joint planting

Rules for joint planting of cultivated plants designed primarily to increase productivity. By following them, a person receives the following benefits:

Each plant has different neighbors, so you need to carefully consider the layout of your garden before you start mixed planting of vegetables in the beds. An example of a successful neighborhood: cucumber and corn, when the cereals protect the vegetable from the scorching sun and at the same time serve as a support for it. Corn is also good next to tomatoes, but it’s better not to plant tomatoes and cucumbers themselves - they require absolutely different quantities moisture and fresh air for optimal growth.

Vegetables can be planted not only next to others edible plants, but also with aromatic herbs or even flowers.

For example, basil improves the taste of tomatoes, and mint improves the taste of white cabbage. Almost all crops can be planted next to garlic and onions, because these fragrant plants emit a large number of phytoncides that have a good effect on many vegetables.

All plants need pollinators, and planting flowers next to vegetables will help attract them - they will not only be beneficial, but will also serve as decoration for the garden. In addition to them, herbs such as mint, lemon balm and marjoram will help attract pollinating insects. Earthworms also have a good effect on most crops - they loosen the soil, increasing the amount of oxygen available to plants. They like herbs such as chicory, valerian and green onions.

Universal neighbors that are useful for almost any vegetable are legumes.. Their roots are inhabited by nodule bacteria that process nitrogen from the air, which the beans can supply to nearby plants. The most nitrogen-rich soil remains after the end of their growth, so legumes also serve as a good precursor for crops that require this parameter, for example, pumpkin or cabbage.

Another plant that works well with many vegetables is spinach. It releases special substances that help plants better absorb beneficial elements from the garden bed. In addition, spinach leaves quickly grow and cover the ground, protecting it from drying out and preventing weeds from developing while the neighboring vegetables are still small and do not occupy the entire bed.

All cultures prefer different friends - it is necessary to take into account many factors in order to understand what to plant with what in the garden. The compatibility table for the most popular vegetables looks like this:

Pest protectors

Many plants repel or lure insects or animals that feed on vegetable crops. They can be combined in plantings with vulnerable plants or planted between rows for preventive purposes. If you do this correctly, you can significantly reduce the use of chemicals in your garden or eliminate them altogether. Different crops will help protect your garden from the following pests:

Warring vegetables

In addition to plant friends that strengthen and support each other in the garden, there are also very bad neighbors for some species that inhibit their growth and have a bad effect on the harvest. The consequences of planting such “enemies” together are often the attraction of pests, diseases, waterlogging due to which fungi develop, or even the complete cessation of growth of one of the crops. Enemies of the most common garden plants:

Rules for successful combination

In order to get a rich harvest, it is not enough to simply plant suitable crops nearby and protect them from enemy plants - many more factors must be taken into account. It is best to combine species that are favorable to each other, both horizontally and vertically, and also plant them at the right time so that vegetables grown too early do not ruin their neighbors.

Plants in a joint bed should first of all be combined in their preferences for temperature and amount of water. It is also worth considering the structure of their root system - you need to plant vegetables with different root depths nearby so that they do not intersect and there is no competition.

Another important parameter is the amount of nutrients the plant needs. The crop that needs them most is planted in the center of the planting, and less demanding crops are planted on the sides. You should never plant crops with the same height and width of leaves in one bed - one of them will definitely destroy the neighbor.

To properly grow vegetables, you need to know after which crops they can be planted.

Onions, for example, prefer cucumbers, legumes and early varieties of potatoes as predecessors, but do not like it when celery, radish or carrots grew in front of it in the garden. In both small and large crop rotations, you should not use plants of the same family twice in a row: this especially applies to beets, chard and spinach.

Vegetables grow faster in a greenhouse - this is also worth taking into account if you want to create joint plantings there. Before starting work, you need to carefully consider the layout of the beds - take into account the cardinal directions (some crops, such as cucumbers and tomatoes, are grown on the southern sunny side of greenhouses), find those plants that are suitable for the same humidity and temperature, and make sure that none of them didn't hurt anyone else.

Planting vegetables together is a very effective and useful way, which will help to grow a good harvest even under unfavorable conditions or in a small area. Using various tables, you can easily create your own combinations suitable plants and enjoy delicious and juicy vegetables from the garden every year.

Compatibility of vegetables in beds

There is a certain interaction between plants located nearby. Some of them are true friends and buddies, ready to help each other in every possible way, others remain neutral, and others tend to be at enmity with others. To use this influence to get a decent harvest and avoid annoying mistakes when planning your garden, you need to understand which crops can be planted side by side, and which proximity of vegetables in the beds is extremely undesirable.

What are mixed plantings?

If the garden area is small, but you want to get a variety of fruits, and more, circumstances suggest a way out: compacted crops or mixed plantings. This is a method of organic farming, when several plants are cultivated simultaneously in a garden bed. different cultures: vegetables, herbs, berries, flowers, planted taking into account the compatibility of plants, mixed together or according to a certain pattern.

Mixed plantings: benefit and beauty

The natural question is: is the topic of combined plantings relevant for owners of spacious plots? Every gardener, planning to populate his plot with “green friends” in the spring, dreams of getting the most out of each bed. At the same time, any experienced vegetable grower knows that to obtain a significant harvest, fertile land is needed, quality seeds, healthy seedlings, application effective fertilizers, competent care of plantings in the neighborhood.

However, few people take into account another significant circumstance: allelopathy. Don’t be intimidated by this scientific name for the phenomenon of the biochemical influence of some cultures on others or their mutual influence. Allelopathy is capable of providing mutually beneficial conditions for the coexistence of vegetables adjacent to the garden when planted together, but it can also serve as a factor suppressing the development of individual species.

Good neighborhood

The essence of the effect is that all parts of plants release biologically active substances into the environment (air, soil) - phytoncides, antibiotics and others. These compounds, depending on the type, can either be absorbed and have a beneficial effect on neighboring crops, or oppress their neighbors in the garden. Good selection green “roommates” allows you to harvest more from your garden and grow healthy, beautiful fruits with improved taste.

In addition to the positive manifestation of allelopathy, there are many more benefits that encourage the organization of joint plantings on the site, even if there is enough space on it for separate cultivation.

Isolated neighborhood

Advantages of mixed plantings

It is worth noting that combining vegetables in the garden is not the latest trend in garden farming technology. Since ancient times, the American Indians have known a successful trio: peas, corn, pumpkin. The classic community of plants has successfully migrated to the present day and is successfully used by many vegetable growers: peas enrich the soil with nitrogen, corn serves as its support, pumpkin, covering the ground, fights weeds.

Classic trio

Organizing joint plantings is a more promising and exciting activity than cultivating monocultures on separate sites. However, the approach to planning “communal” beds must be responsible. It is not enough to know what vegetables and other crops can be planted nearby; you need to be prepared to make observations and analyze the results of the neighborhood. But people who have decided to experiment and have harvested more than one harvest from combined plantings note many advantages of this approach:

• The available land area is used more rationally, and more is harvested from it than when planted with a monoculture.
• Vegetables in the garden have good appearance, are healthy or get sick less.
• The need for crops to water is reduced.
• There is no need for frequent thorough weeding of the beds.
• Reduced time for preparatory work garden work.
• There is an opportunity to reduce or eliminate the use mineral fertilizers, due to nitrogen fixation by legumes.
• Unilateral soil depletion and “fatigue” are prevented, and the need for crop rotation gradually disappears.
• The rejection of pesticides is becoming a reality, as many plants attract beneficial insects and birds that destroy pests. There are also flowers and herbs that repel harmful insects and rodents.
• The harvest is obtained throughout the season if other crops are sown on the area vacated after the early ones.
• It is possible to create a unique microclimate in the garden bed, using tall, stable plants as curtains to protect delicate neighbors from winds and direct sun.

Cabbage, marigolds, calendula - a wonderful neighborhood

Rules for the formation of combined plantings

Experience and observations accumulated by gardeners indicate that, in addition to the listed advantages, mixed cultivation even affects the taste of vegetables. In particular, herbs such as basil, celery, monarda, and parsley improve the taste of tomatoes. Bush beans can make radishes more savory. A cucumber planted next to a sunflower will delight you with especially sweet, crunchy greens.

These tomatoes are especially tasty

Choose the right combination vegetables with each other in the garden and realizing all the benefits of growing plants in a mixed type is possible only if certain rules are followed. When planning the organization of a “communal” garden bed, you must:

1. Consider the climate in the region.
2. Study the specific features of your own plot and focus on them: is the garden in the sun or in the shade, is it protected from the winds, what are the agrotechnical characteristics of the soil, is there a possibility of watering.
3. Orient the beds in such a way that tall specimens do not shade light-loving neighbors and, on the contrary, shade those for whom the hot sun is harmful.
4. Combine plants with different growing seasons. Early vegetables and greens (onions, radishes, Chinese cabbage, lettuce) in mixed plantings should be planted with crops with a long ripening period (cucumbers, zucchini, eggplants, beets, tomatoes).
5. Decide whether the food area will be sufficient for all the “tenants” of the garden bed. This depends on the development of their root system. Plants with deep, strong roots should be placed adjacent to crops with shallow root systems.

Scheme of a small bed with combined plantings

As a rule, three crops are grown in a mixed bed: the previous early one, the main one and the partner plant. With sufficient knowledge and experience in gardening, you will draw up schemes for combined plantings yourself. If you don’t rely on your own experience, use ready-made planting patterns and special tables from the examples below.

Compatibility table

Compatibility of crops in one bed

Now we should dwell on the compatibility of some common crops with other plants in a common garden bed and figure out which proximity is beneficial for them, which is acceptable, and which is harmful.

Onion and the best neighbors for it

It’s hard to imagine a Russian’s diet without onions; every summer resident hopes to stock them for the whole winter. It is interesting to find out how he behaves in a mixed bed, whether he makes his neighbors cry.

It is reliably known that onions are not only useful for humans - they are an excellent companion for many other crops, diligently protecting them from diseases and pests. Thanks to this, plants placed nearby develop well and produce increased yields. But a gardener aimed at obtaining a solid harvest is also interested in which neighborhood is favorable for the onion itself.

We can immediately say that this vegetable will be comfortable in the company of salads, radishes, tomatoes, parsley, beets, cucumbers, and strawberries. And you should keep it away from grapes, legumes, and sage.

Comfortable neighborhood

Many vegetable growers who are mastering the technique of growing vegetables together are wondering whether it is possible to plant onions and garlic in the same bed, because they are so similar: they have the same sowing time, requirements for soil, lighting, and agricultural technology. However, these crops are from common family- their similarity is also manifested in the presence of common pests and diseases, from which they cannot protect each other.

Onions and garlic have superficial root systems, which means they can compete in terms of nutrition and moisture. There are more disadvantages in such a neighborhood than advantages, and planting them mixed on small area not worth it. IN as a last resort, you can divide the “living space” in half between them. But the best option would be to plant onions and carrots in the same bed - this combination has become a classic in the practice of growing vegetables together.

Carrots and onions are friendly

Carrots and the ideal growing environment

Carrots and onions are the perfect duet. They not only coexist peacefully - their position is active in relation to each other’s pests. Carrots will safely scare away onion fly, and the carrot fly will not even come close to the area where the onion protector stands side by side with the tasty root vegetable. The simplest example of such a bed: a central row of onions along its length and two rows of carrots on the sides.

Classic neighborhood

However, it is worth noting that these crops have different watering requirements. When the bulbs are full and begin to ripen, the onions do not need water, it is even harmful to it, and at this time just give the carrots a drink. If the climate in the region is such that vegetables cannot be grown without watering, you have to either leave the onions only as a protector, or say goodbye to part of the carrot harvest, trying to protect the ripening onions from rot.

A way out of the described situation could be to grow perennial onions or onions for greens together with carrots. Or you should find out what else can be planted in the same bed with carrots and implement the idea. Having studied the table above, you can make sure that carrots are good next to radishes, peas, lettuce, tomatoes, spinach, and garlic. Its proximity to parsley, celery, and dill is undesirable.

Carrots are comfortable next to radishes

By the way, many are surprised that the delicate sprigs of self-sowing dill should be removed from the carrot bed. But everything is natural: these plants from the same family compete for water and food. In addition, both of them (like all umbrella species) are attractive to the carrot fly. Therefore, it is not advisable to leave cute dill bushes among carrot crops. Moreover, it is unacceptable to deliberately plant carrots and dill in the same bed - this is an unfortunate juxtaposition.

The result of a bad neighborhood

Garlic and other plants in one bed

Garlic is a wonderful plant that endows the space around it with phytoncides that bring health. This is a natural fungicide that works well in the fight against fungal infections. Most of garlic’s neighbors like this quality: in its environment, potatoes can cope with late blight, carrots will not be damaged by carrot flies and psyllids, and strawberries will not be attacked by harmful insects.

Garlic - a natural healer

So you can plant a lot of vegetables, herbs, and flowers in the garden next to garlic. It likes carrots, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, and especially favors celery. And they are the best neighbors for garlic itself. Many flowers feel great in the presence of a fragrant vegetable. Of those with whom garlic is friends in the garden in particular, we can name roses and bulbous flowers: tulips, gladioli, daffodils.

Good partners of garlic

Despite its beneficial properties, the proximity of garlic is contraindicated in peas, lentils, beans, and peanuts. They cannot be placed not only in the same bed, but also near a plot planted with garlic, which has such an adverse effect on legumes that they stop developing normally and hardly bear fruit. It is also unacceptable to plant cabbage and perennial onions next to it. But for raspberries and strawberries, garlic will be the best companion.

For tulips, proximity to garlic is beneficial

Strawberries and suitable neighbors

When setting up a strawberry plantation, summer residents often think about what can be planted next to the strawberries in the same bed to protect the berries from pests and diseases. Inquisitive farmers have found a solution: garlic, a natural healer, copes with this task perfectly. The following pests are afraid of him:

• ants;
• strawberry weevil;
• nematodes;
• wireworm;
• spider mite

Garden strawberries (commonly known as strawberries)

Glorious protector sweet berries planted in a row in the rows of a strawberry bed and between holes with berry bushes. Strawberries (garden strawberries) reciprocate with garlic: the heads of garlic grow even larger and stronger than when planted in a separate “living space”. Everyone who practices growing strawberries and garlic in the same bed is sure that their proximity is very beneficial.

Bittersweet couple

To good companions for aromatic berries You can also include beans, onions, eggplants, radishes, spinach, parsley. The latter drives away slugs from ripening berries. But there are no crops with which strawberries would be poorly compatible: apparently, they are very friendly to their neighbors and are loved by all of them.

Strawberries' best neighbor is beans

It is known that different varieties of individual crops (for example, potatoes) can be at odds, not only when planted nearby, but even when storing the crop. Therefore, there are often disputes between garden owners on the topic: is it possible to plant different varieties of strawberries in the same bed or will this lead to civil strife or cross-pollination. There is no reason to be afraid of one or the other: the bushes are at enmity garden strawberries they just don't know how.

Cross-pollination occurs, but it will affect the appearance and quality of the berries only if strawberries are propagated by seeds. At vegetative propagation the grade will not be affected - the main thing is not to confuse which mother plant the rosette is separated from. For these reasons, it is worth planting varieties of garden strawberries, if in the same bed, then in separate groups.

Parsley will protect against slugs

Cucumbers in joint plantings

Pimpled, crispy greens - what could be better at the beginning of summer? And if you are already determined to grow vegetables together, you should know which neighbor of the cucumbers in the garden will be a faithful assistant to them, and which one will oppress them. Cucumbers are not picky, a good neighborhood is not a problem for them - in this regard, they are compatible with most vegetable crops. It is easier to list those plants with which cucumbers do not have a good relationship.

Corn curtains protect from the wind

The list is small:

• potato,
• radishes (specialist opinions differ here),
• tomatoes (a controversial issue),
• spices.

Dill is a wonderful partner of cucumbers

Much more than the neighborhood, the development of this vegetable is influenced by the microclimate and soil. Therefore, when deciding what to plant in a bed of cucumbers, more attention should be paid to the ability of companions to protect growing vines from the aggressive influence of the environment. For example, corn curtains will become excellent protection cucumber lashes from the winds, and the beans will supply them with nitrogen. There is one exception among herbs: dill goes well with cucumbers.

Another example of a pleasant neighborhood

Beets in a common garden

When deciding what to plant beets with, you should rely on scientific data and use common sense. The German scientist Hubmann, who studied plant compatibility for many years, concluded that plants such as beets, potatoes, tomatoes, bush beans, spinach can coexist perfectly, stimulating each other. Good neighbors for beets, in his opinion, are also onions, kohlrabi, lettuce, garlic, and strawberries.

Community of Root Vegetables

Regarding the incompatibility of beets with other vegetables, there is no consensus. Some vegetable growers, contrary to Hubmann, argue that this root crop does not grow well next to potatoes. However, many gardeners successfully grow it along the edges of potato ridges. Neither scientists nor practitioners have decided on the usefulness or harmfulness of the proximity of beets to corn, chard, and chives.

There is a version that the substances secreted by beet roots have antibiotic properties and have a healing effect on neighboring plants. Therefore, growing, for example, beets and carrots in the same bed will have a positive effect on both crops.

Joint cultivation of beets, onions, carrots

True, you will need to take care to maintain a sufficient interval between the rows, remembering that the powerful foliage of beets can greatly shade their companions. A good option for mixed growing of vegetables would be a bed with a row of onions planted in the center, a row of beets and a row of carrots along the edges.

Pumpkin in the vicinity of other crops

Pumpkin does not have any special preferences or dislike for vegetables growing nearby. However, it can be considered quite successful in its proximity to the previously mentioned corn, peas, as well as other legumes, radishes, and nasturtium. Sometimes gardeners, trying to make maximum use of the area compost heap, zucchini is planted on it together with pumpkin.

Friendship is friendship, but garden beds are better apart

But pumpkins and zucchini cannot be good neighbors in the same garden. As a result of cross-pollination, fruits grow in a shape and color unusual for both vegetables. Hybrids on zucchini grow round, and on pumpkins oblong. Their taste qualities also suffer. This is a clear example of an unsuccessful application of a mixed growing system, and it is not worth deciding on such an experiment.

This company is better for pumpkin

Tomatoes surrounded by neighbors

Some people consider tomatoes to be as individualistic as pumpkins. But, if you turn to the experience of Swiss, German and domestic gardeners, it is not difficult to see that cultivating tomatoes in the vicinity of other crops is quite possible. They go well with radishes, lettuce, carrots, celery, parsley, beets, and garlic. There is no doubt that you can plant these vegetables and herbs in the same bed with tomatoes.

Their mutual influence may be different. For example, the relationship between garlic and tomatoes is favorable for the latter: garlic protects them from spider mites and reduces the risk of late blight. And basil is considered the best companion for tomatoes, not only promoting the growth of the vegetable, but also improving its taste. By the way, other aromatic herbs have the same property: borage, lemon balm, marigold, mint.

The effect of nettles growing nearby on tomatoes is interesting: it increases the shelf life of tomatoes and improves the quality of tomato juice. As a rule, those who grow tomatoes and carrots in the same bed, the row of which is placed along the row of tomatoes, are satisfied with the results. But tomatoes have almost no enemies - only fennel can be considered an obvious antagonist, which is such in relation to almost all vegetables.

The proximity of eggplant to pepper is a joy

Bell peppers in the center of a mixed vegetable garden

It is impossible not to mention the possible neighbors of bell peppers in the garden. It has a good relationship with basil, eggplant, dill, spinach, and thyme. Marigolds, coriander, and onions can act as protectors of pepper from aphids, with which it gets along well. And a plant like okra can be planted next to fragile pepper bushes to shelter them from the wind.

The combination of tomatoes, peas, cabbage, beets, beans, and carrots is contraindicated for pepper. Neighborhood is extremely undesirable sibling- hot pepper. It will not interfere with the development and fruiting of the “Bulgarian”, but the result of cross-pollination will be loss of harvest, since Bell pepper can no longer be called such. You can decide what to plant next to the pepper in the same bed based on the lists of successful and unsuccessful neighbors.

Cabbage is the best neighbor for vegetables and herbs

There are many types of cabbage; they grow and bear fruit in different ways. But they have common problems with pests and diseases, so the problem of how to plant cabbage in one bed is solved almost the same for all varieties. Celery is an excellent partner for cabbage, gaining additional flavor and being stimulated to grow thanks to the influence of cabbage. In turn, it drives away white butterflies and cruciferous flea from the beds.

Neighborhood is beneficial for cabbage:

• different types of onions,
• salad,
• potatoes,
• aromatic herbs (sage, dill, chamomile),
• beans,
• garlic

Cabbage's Pleasant Neighbors

Cabbage and tomatoes do not get along in the same bed. Strawberries are also not in favor with the “garden lady.” But cabbage is still different from cabbage. By placing cauliflower next to its white cabbage sister, you can miss the calculations for the yield of colored heads: their set rate when adjacent to the white cabbage beauty is significantly reduced.

Potatoes and crops useful for them

Growing “second bread” in a mixed crop is beneficial: it suffers less and does not require crop rotation as much. Beans and spinach are good neighbors for potatoes in the garden. A remarkable result can be obtained if you plant bush beans in the spaces between the potato rows - they repel the malicious pest, Colorado potato beetle, enriches the soil with nitrogen. The harmful beetle is also repelled by tansy, marigold, coriander, and nasturtium.

Potatoes and beans in the garden

Potatoes also feel good in the company of radishes, corn, varieties of cabbage, and salads. The company of horseradish planted in the corners is favorable for him. potato field, but the proximity of sunflower and quinoa has a depressing effect. The combination of potatoes and celery is undesirable. There are conflicting opinions regarding the compatibility of potatoes and beets, peas and tomatoes.

You have gained some idea of ​​the benefits of joint planting of garden crops. If you are fascinated by this idea, do not stop: study the characteristics of the plants that you plan to cultivate, consult with experienced gardeners and specialists, and success will certainly come. Your favorite vegetable garden, sparkling with new colors, will delight you with its appearance and decent harvests.

Let's look at the sociable qualities of garden plants. What pests does the plant repel, what predators does it attract, what plants does it oppress and which, on the contrary, does it help to thrive, what plants help it, what contribution does the plant make to the creation of the soil, in a word, how does it behave in “society”.

Most of the information is folklore, some is scientifically explained. Some things were read from wonderful books, but corrected by my own experience. Calendula, for example, has a reputation for being a wonderful neighbor in plant groups, but in vain: corn, watermelon and melon do not care in close proximity to the allelopathic calendula. This is an experience that can be called bitter: how nice it would be to have beautiful, long-lasting and intensely flowering, frost-resistant, biomass-rich calendula everywhere in the garden. I wanted to, but I didn’t have to sue...

Let’s start compiling a “dossier” with vegetables, for which, basically, a garden is started. What can I say if in the “Dictionary of the Russian Language” S.I. Ozhegov's vegetable garden is directly defined as a plot of land under vegetables.

Watermelon

Watermelon is a good companion to potatoes and oatmeal. Corn and peas improve the growth and taste of watermelons. Sow thistle and pigweed promote the growth of watermelons.

Eggplant.

Ashiritsa helps eggplants grow healthy (in small quantities, of course). Beans repel the Colorado potato beetle. The space between the eggplants (quite extensive) can be successfully used for salad. It is beneficial to surround the eggplant with basil. Tarragon and thyme can help in the fight against fleas (in extreme cases, infusions).

Okra

Okra is a strong, tall plant, the stem is fibrous (okra is a type of jute), and okra bushes can be left in the garden bed in the winter, and in the spring, peas can be planted on the finished trellis. It is good to plant peppers, eggplants, melons, and cucumbers with okra.

Peas

Peas are an excellent companion for almost all vegetables (potatoes, tomatoes, carrots, turnips, radishes, cucumbers, corn, beans) and aromatic herbs. The exception is all kinds of bows and gladioli. Cabbage plants prevent rotting of pea roots. Lettuce, spinach and eggplant grow well in the shade of peas.

Melons

Potatoes inhibit the growth of melons and can even cause them to wilt. The close proximity of cucumbers is harmful to melons - they can cross-pollinate, and both will become bitter. Radishes and pigweed help melons grow.

Cabbage

Although different types of cabbage (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi) grow and develop differently, their problems and their behavior in phytocenoses are similar.

Cabbage butterflies are driven away from cabbages by celery, thyme, hyssop, and wormwood. The combination of other aromatic herbs (dill, chamomile, mint, sage), onions of various types (turnips, shallots, batun, chaivis, leeks), and beans is beneficial for cabbage. Cabbage is compatible with potatoes. This is some kind of mysticism, explained only by allelopathy (this time - “good”): I have simply never seen such tight, tasty and clean cabbage as planted between rows of potatoes after hilling.

Cabbage doesn't like strawberries and tomatoes. She herself oppresses the grapes. Cauliflower does not like the proximity of cucumbers and beets, as well as tall plants shading it.

Potato

Many plants can provide useful company to potatoes: beans, beets, corn, lettuce, radishes, coriander, nasturtium, flax, tansy, catnip, horseradish, ashiritsa. But potatoes have an affectionate “companion” - the Colorado potato beetle. Therefore, among the possible neighbors, we will single out those who can help the potato in this trouble.

Horseradish protects potatoes well from the Colorado potato beetle. But horseradish is extremely aggressive - its roots can stretch many meters in depth and breadth, and it can grow from any piece of root. There is no such organization of joint planting of potatoes and horseradish that would protect the garden from horseradish contamination.

Something similar can be said about tansy with catnip. They are also expansive (tend to expand the territory they occupy) and cannot be planted together with potatoes. But infusions of tansy and catnip can be successfully used against the beetle. The infusion of catnip contains the poison nepetactone, which is destructive to the larvae. The infusion of delphinium has the same property. By the time the Colorado potato beetle appears, delphinium and catnip do not have time to build up the required mass, and they must be prepared in advance for future use.

Legumes provide some protection against the beetle. You can simply throw pea and bean seeds into the hole when planting potatoes and then kind of forget about them. It’s more difficult with heat-loving beans. You can, for example, first plant only potatoes, during the first hilling, use the soil from one (preferably southern) side of the row, and stick a narrow strip of bean grains on the same side (by this time it will be warm enough for the beans). Let us remind you that the beans must be early, bush. After the second hilling, you can plant beans on the other side of the row. By the time the potatoes are dug, the beans (at least the ones planted in the first place) will have matured and will not interfere with harvesting.

Coriander, nasturtium, and flax repel the beetle (unfortunately, slightly). They can be sown on the south side of the row - at the same time they will cover the soil of the potato bushes and protect the roots from unwanted overheating. Marigolds are also unpleasant to the beetle, but they are allelopathic enough to be good company for potatoes. Since the beetle finds potatoes by smell, basil can confuse it.

To combat the beetle, you can use trap plants. If you have extra seedlings, you can plant eggplants - rarely, every 20 bushes. The beetles are attracted by this plant, which is more tasty for them, and it is easier to collect them here. Datura and belladonna (belladonna) are even more elegant in this role. Female beetles prefer to lay eggs on these nightshades, and the larvae literally find themselves in a trap: the leaves are deadly poisonous to them, and they are unable and unwilling to change the plant. True, creating these traps is a rather troublesome task: prepare seeds, sow them at the right time and in the right place (or even better, grow seedlings), and then protect yourself from self-seeding (and poisoning too).

If the garden is not flooded with pesticides, then birds - titmice, finches, robins, thrushes, nuthatches, and orioles - can provide significant assistance in the fight against the beetle.

Effective in the fight against beetles, an infusion of nut leaves. But the poison juglone contained in them is very persistent, unlike nepetactone or the curare-like poison of delphinium. Of course, if we “live together”, then we can water the garden with juglone. But then it’s even “better” to sprinkle DDT.

Another serious scourge for potatoes is late blight. A plant that can help potatoes fight late blight is garlic. Not only on its own, as a neighbor, but also as a source of raw materials for infusion.

Some plants, on the contrary, help late blight. The ability of potatoes to resist the disease is weakened by raspberries and, naturally, tomatoes growing nearby. Sunflowers, pumpkins, zucchini and cucumbers can be home to late blight, although they themselves do not suffer from it.

Potatoes promote the growth of cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, and onions. Apple trees and potatoes have a bad influence on each other: ripening apples inhibit the growth of potatoes, and the latter (in revenge, or what?) prevents the apple trees from absorbing phosphorus and nitrogen.

It is bad in the vicinity of turnip potatoes and pumpkin.

Sweet corn

Corn grows well with potatoes. And the beans simply feed the corn, a heavy eater, nitrogen. The sparse shadow cast by corn is favorable for watermelons, pumpkins, and cucumbers.

Of the weeds, wheatgrass is the most unpleasant to corn (and who likes it?). Wheatgrass makes nitrogen and potassium difficult for corn to access, even in well-fertilized soil.

Onion

Luka feels good in company with different types cabbages. He also loves onions, strawberries, tomatoes, lettuce, savory and (in small quantities) chamomile and petunia. Perennial onions (batun, chaivis) are good in circles near roses.

Onions are especially useful in the proximity of carrots and potatoes. A brilliant company - borage, sow thistle, nettle. Bad - peas, sage, beans, gladius. Onion borers do not like onions.

Carrot

Carrots go well with onions of all kinds, garlic, oatmeal, but dill and anise go poorly. Flowering (seed) carrots attract beneficial insects.

There is no need to plant carrots near an apple tree - both carrots and apples will taste bitter.

oat root

Oat root repels onion flies, so its seeds can be mixed with carrot seeds (also repellent onion flies) and sown in rows interspersed with onion ones.

Cucumber

Cucumbers go very well with corn. Corn protects cucumbers from bacterial wilt, and together they drive ants away.

The proximity of beans, peas, radishes, kohlrabi, cabbage, lettuce, celery, cauliflower, and sunflowers has a beneficial effect on cucumbers. You can sow a few radish seeds around a cucumber hole and forget about it. Let it grow and flourish, scare away harmful insects (cucumber beetles, for example), and attract beneficial ones.

Some weeds add energy to cucumbers: quinoa, pigweed, sow thistle, tansy. The proximity of tall plants that provide light shade is beneficial for cucumbers. Shchiritsa sacrificially lures caterpillars that gnaw at the roots.

Parsnip

An infusion of parsnip leaves and roots is an excellent spray against many insects. It is both a repellent and an insecticide (it can not only repel, but also kill insects). Parsnips themselves have almost no problems with pests and diseases.

Parsnips are frost-resistant and can overwinter in the soil. Blooming parsnips (in the second year) are attractive to beneficial insects. It is a good companion for radishes. Peas and other legumes help it grow.

Pepper.

Pepper feels good with basil - they provide mutual services to each other. The pepper gets along well with okra, which shelters the fragile pepper from the wind.

Onions, tansy, coriander, catnip, and marigolds can repel aphids from peppers. Nasturtium can be used as a trap.

It is advisable to avoid proximity to beans, which, like peppers, are affected by anthracnose (black soft spots appear on the fruits).

Tomatoes.

When creating companies with tomatoes, you need to keep in mind both potato (and tomato too) enemies: the Colorado potato beetle and late blight. The beetle, however, is not so scary. It rarely attacks tomatoes, in case of obvious provocation. To do this, you need, for example, to plant tomatoes next to potatoes - then the beetle will easily move from the drying potato tops to the tomatoes. Or you just need to be unlucky and when the potato tops are drying out, a steady wind blows from the tomatoes onto the potato beds.

Late blight is worse. When are they created ideal conditions for epiphytic late blight - it inevitably comes. Of course, something can be done, for example, a ventilated “bottom”. But more often you have to resort to spraying - garlic infusion or preparations containing copper ( copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride, oxychome).

When you mention copper oxychloride, the “rosehip incident” involuntarily comes to mind. In the century before last, a typo crept into one of the reference books - in the number characterizing the content of vitamin C in rose hips, the decimal point shifted to the right, and rose hips became 10 times “richer” in vitamin C! And off we go, from book to book... Everyone knows that lemon is more sour than rose hips, but (such is the power of the printed word!) “there is more vitamin C in rose hips than in lemon.”

Something similar happened with copper oxychloride. On chloroxide packages and in the literature of 10-20 years ago, it was always about 0.3-0.4% solutions, i.e. about 30-40 grams per bucket of water. Then, apparently, somewhere they mistakenly printed “30-40 grams per liter”, the recommended solution became 3-4%, and the corrected recipe ended up in packages.

The “rosehip incident” is harmless. Some people will prefer rose hips to lemon - and that’s good for their health. But a 10-fold increase in the concentration of a toxic solution is harmful to both plants and people.

But let's get back to tomatoes. They are compatible with carrots, parsley, onions, garlic, chaiwes, borage and many flowers, particularly cosmos. Garlic protects tomatoes from spider mites. Basil improves the growth and taste of tomatoes, increases their resistance to diseases, and repels hornworms. Stinging and dead nettles improve the taste and growth of tomatoes (you can make an infusion of nettle tops to feed tomatoes). Shchiritsa is useful in small quantities.

Tomato leaves contain solanine and an infusion of the leaves can be used to protect roses and gooseberries from black spot.

Tomato root secretions are harmful to apricots. Corn and tomatoes should not be planted next to each other.

Beet.

Beets grow well with onions, carrots, lettuce, radishes and any cabbage except cauliflower. It is not harmed by some shading, which can be provided, for example, by Brussels sprouts. Climbing beans and mustard are unpleasant neighbors for beets.

By spraying beets with mint or catnip infusions, you can rid them of flea beetles. The flea beetle, however, only brings “cosmetic” damage to beets. Worse with aphids. If colonies of aphids appear on beets, they can cause noticeable damage to them. Infusions of mint and catnip are suitable against aphids, but a decoction of rhubarb leaves or a garlic infusion is more effective. You need to especially carefully look after beets growing next to Brussels sprouts, which are adored by aphids.

By the way, some birds love aphids - sparrows, titmice, finches, nuthatches.

Celery.

Celery grows well with leeks, tomatoes, cabbage, and bush beans. Earthworms like to gather in the roots of celery: to encourage them, you can sow celery in a circle, creating a kind of home for the worms.

Celery loves shade. In it it grows more fragrant.

Soy.

Like all legumes, soybeans loosen and enrich the soil. Suppresses weeds. According to the observation (many years!) of Igor Shumara, soybean has the ability to “clean” the beds, comparable to chumiza, rye, and vetch. Grows well with many plants, particularly wheat.

Corn benefits greatly from company with soybeans. Soybeans repel corn bugs. Volatile substances released by soybean leaves stimulate the absorption of phosphorus by corn. And with the help of nodule bacteria, soybeans feed the corn with nitrogen.

Pumpkin.

Pumpkin grows well with corn. Radishes planted around the hole help the pumpkin fight pests. Nasturtium is also good in this role. Contribute to better growth pigweed, quinoa, sow thistle (naturally, not in debilitating quantities).

Joint plantingsvegetable, berry, green and ornamental crops at the dachas there is a garden bed x is not know-how, not innovation, but technology used over many centuries of traditional cultivation of vegetable crops. Examples of joint planting of vegetables in bedswere known to both the American Indians and the ancient Slavs. Modern agricultural technicians study the interaction of different crops within a separate industry -plant allelopathy. We are talking about beneficial or depressing mutual influence various plants, planted nearby. For small country farms themeco-cultivationof various vegetables and herbs is especially relevant, since the use of this planting method will allow using the available space more economically in terms of quantity and more efficiently in terms of quality.

Why is it important to properly combine vegetables in garden beds?

To obtain maximum yield on a minimum area, using the technology of combined beds, it is necessary to understand the basics of crop rotation, since even incorrect rotation of crops planted on the same piece of land in different years can either improve the result or negate all the efforts of the gardener. Since the gardener is primarily interested in the yield and health of the plantings, the right choice neighbour and in the garden bed allows you to solve both problems.

Understanding the secrets of combined cultivation vegetable x, green and decorative crops You can achieve not only a rich, healthy harvest, but also combine the useful with the beautiful: a garden bed can become a decoration for your garden, turning into a flower bed. When choosing neighboring crops, the following factors must be taken into account: Plants with similar maintenance conditions and care requirements are planted in one bed: lighting, humidity, acidity and soil structure, regime and composition of fertilizing. If the cultures coincide in most parameters, then the nuances can be taken into account by correctly drawing up a diagramjoint landing: plant a more moisture-loving plant in the center of the bed, where the soil moisture level is higher than at the edge. The same applies to sizes: the tallest specimens from a set of crops require planting in the center, the shortest ones - in the border, then everyone will have enough sunlight.

Compliance with crop rotation is an indispensable condition. Related crops belonging to the same family should not follow Friend after each other from season to season, since they draw from the soil the nutrients necessary for these particular plants (which means that the next season the “relative” will already be deprived of soil fertility) and pathogenic microorganisms accumulate over the season, causing harm to this particular family (and therefore , a “relative” is initially susceptible to a “family” disease). Plants with a powerful deep root system and short surface roots should be planted side by side in one bed so that these crops are adjacent and alternate: deep-shallow-deep. With such a planting, the roots of neighbors will not compete for underground space, each developing in its own direction.

Joint landingcultivation of different crops is possible not only within a spatial framework, when plants are simultaneously planted and ripen at the same time.

Joint planting within temporary boundaries allows you to harvest some vegetables, freeing up space for later neighbors to emerge and begin to develop.

Good example such a conveyor principlecombined planting in the garden bed, the width of which is 1 m, and the row spacing is 10 cm: Planting: lettuce (leaf) and radishes in one row - alternating every 10 cm; next row: watercress, kohlrabi cabbage alternates in a row with a head variety of lettuce, spinach is planted in three rows in a row, an early variety of potatoes, a couple more rows of spinach. Total 9 k ultur. Harvesting: spinach and watercress are harvested first (cut off the leaves and leave the roots); As they ripen, the radishes are pulled out and the lettuce leaves are removed after one; later, after harvesting the head lettuce, kohlrabi and potatoes remain until fully ripened.

Example of vertical combining compatible plants in one bed: The bed is located in an east-west direction. Along the northern border along the entire length there is a trellis support for tying up a climbing crop - beans. Rows: beans, after 0.2 m - low-growing tomatoes, after 0.2 m - carrots, after 0.2 m - onions, along the edge - a fragrant spice (for example, basil) or marigolds to protect against insects. Carrots, onions and beans are planted first, and a little later, when the beans catch on the trellis, the tomato seedlings are planted. Harvesting in this combination is almost simultaneous for all vegetable neighbors.

Advantages of mixed plantings

The advantages of planting vegetables, herbs and ornamental crops in common beds, taking into account their compatibility, include not only saving space, although it is this reason that often pushes gardeners to mixed cultivation.

By wisely using the characteristics of certain plants, you can protect your plantings from attacks by insect pests: marigolds, oregano, mint, and herbs drive away insects, protecting their neighbors in the garden. Onions and garlic can also become a reliable barrier. If you plant nasturtium next to vegetables, then the aphids will prefer the decorative crop without getting to the vegetables. The smell of rosemary will repel bean lovers, and thyme will help the cabbage resist insect attacks. As a result, the summer resident will have a harvest of vegetables and aromatic additives for tea in the fall. Many cultures are not just friendship t, and show a beneficial effect on each other’s development: tall sun-loving sunflowers and corn are excellent neighbors, since their roots develop on different depths, and create the necessary shade for short plants that prefer light shading: chard, spinach.

Early spinach greens will provide soil moisture and keep weeds at bay while beets and beans, potatoes or tomatoes emerge in the same area. And when the time comes to cut the spinach leaves, roots that are beneficial to the soil will remain in the ground, helping neighbors get food from the soil. These and others examples of joint planting of vegetables in the gardendemonstrate the benefits of growing different crops in a common area, if you know that what and why is it friendly, what can be planted side by side in one common bed . It is equally important to consider which plants do not tolerate each other.

What are they compatible with?

Cabbage

Cabbage crops usually suffer from pests, so onions and garlic are planted to protect against voracious caterpillars, and the aroma of mint, sage, rosemary and Bogorodskaya grass will help against butterflies. Snails do not like borage, and flea beetles avoid planting celery.

In addition to the defenders, cabbage there are simply friendly neighboring vegetables: potatoes, salads, cucumbers, beets.

Neighbors do not recommend carrots to go with cabbage (although with broccoli perhaps), beans, grapes, strawberries, and tomatoes are planted away from cabbage.

Tomatoes

It has been noticed that basil is not just best neighbor for tomatoes , it makes vegetables taste richer. Combines harmoniously with garlic, which protects against pests, leafy greens, radishes and radishes, beans, carrots, onions and beets. They are developing well tomatoes next to peppers , even in closed ground conditions - in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Dill and it is better to plant potatoes further away, but nettle - a malicious weed - is very useful for improving the taste of tomatoes.

cucumbers

There is experience when cucumbers are planted with corn, which helps cope with ants, becomes an additional support for tenacious cucumbers, corn leaves cover the neighbor from the hot sun.

Radishes and radishes repel bugs and improve the flavor of the fruit. Can plant next to onions with garlic. Compatibility of related plants - cucumbers and zucchini - not bad example of joint cultivation in one bed. Spinach, beans and beans, dill, celery and even beets - good neighbors in cucumber beds. Compatibility vegetable crops and weedsplants in the gardenmanifests itself in a combination of cucumbers and tansy, agaric, and quinoa. These weeds help the crop resist pests.

Cucumbers and tomatoes do not grow side by side, especially in greenhouses and hotbeds - their conditions are too different. Potatoes and spices are also planted away from each other.

Pumpkin

Some gardeners believe that a pumpkin cannot find a favorable neighborhood. They definitely don’t plant pumpkins next to zucchini - this is fraught with cross-pollination, with potatoes, peppers and eggplants and legumes. Possible joint plantings with radishes and nasturtium - these crops perform a protective function.

Carrot

Most best neighbor For carrots - onions, but perennial onions. The fact is that onions and carrots have a fundamental difference in watering needs: either the onions will rot or the carrots will not grow. Garlic, spinach, radishes, lettuce - the most popularexamples of beds with joint plantings carrots.

Dill is ruthlessly torn out from carrot beds: these plants, competitors for moisture and nutrition, have the same diseases. Carrots and parsley , not the best neighbor and celery.

Potato

When planting potatoes, many experienced gardeners throw a bean into the hole - the best partner of the crop, helping to get a more abundant harvest. Potatoes have many useful garden companions: beans, coriander, marigolds with nasturtium or tansy protect against the main pest - the Colorado potato beetle. Garlic planted between rows helps cope with late blight.

Potatoes' friends include radishes, salads, cabbage, eggplants, horseradish (if its distribution is controlled), calendula, and corn.

But quinoa inhibits the growth of potatoes; for the same reason, beets are not planted next to them. Raspberries and tomatoes can cause late blight. Zucchini, cucumbers, sorrel - examples of crop incompatibility

Beet

Having identified as neighbors to beets mint or catnip, the gardener saves himself from fighting aphids and fleas, the main pests of the vegetable. Proven neighbors for root vegetables are cabbage (white cabbage), carrots, onions, celery, carrots, strawberries are also suitable. But for a mutually beneficial neighborhood, all plants need to be provided with a place - the plantings should not be thickened.

Beet antagonists are potatoes, beans. Not recommended nearby plant mustard.

bell pepper

Basil is not just a neighbor. This is an active assistant for Bulgarian peppers , it promotes better growth and development of the plant. Onions are good for peppers, and beets are just a good neighbor. Not grown next to the peppers are carrots, peas, beans.

Onion

Perennial onions and carrots are an almost perfect examplecompatibility of plants in the garden. And onions grown for the sake of the bulb are incompatible with carrots, since moisture-loving carrots will ruin the neighbor or the onion harvest will leave the gardener without carrots, because they have different requirements for substrate moisture.

Onions are comfortable in the same bed with tomatoes, green crops, beets, and strawberries. But not with sage, radishes, beans, legumes, grapes, gladioli.

Garlic

Garlic is valued by gardeners for its beneficial nutritional qualities and for the vegetable’s contribution to pest control: it protects plantings from insects, caterpillars, slugs and even moles if a large area is planted with garlic. Garlic is friendly with radishes, salads, celery, strawberries, carrots. It protects potato plantings from late blight, and decorative plants - gladioli and roses - from aphids.

Among the enemies of garlic, we note leguminous plants.

Eggplant

Eggplant with beans - an ideal combination in the fight against the Colorado potato beetle. Creeping thyme protects eggplants from flea beetles. Included in one diagram planting with eggplants, onions, peppers, herbs. Incompatible with cucumbers and cabbage.

Other vegetables

Radish It is good to grow next to carrots, cabbage, turnips, beans, salads, tomatoes, and beans. But onions, cucumbers, and beets are not suitable for common planting with radishes.

Turnip can grow with peas, but does not develop surrounded by asparagus, next to mustard.

Salads are used in various combined beds. And spinach is recommended for compulsory boarding: agricultural technicians note it compatible with any plants in the gardenand benefit in enriching the dacha land.

Unfavorable neighborhood

List of plants that do not get along in close company other crops, small. The leader of this list is fennel, which requires individual planting.

More often the incompatibility is explained family ties crops (dill, coriander, parsley, the umbelliferous family, they compete and suffer from the same diseases).

When planning a general planting scheme, take into account the size of an adult plant, the characteristics of the root system, and the need for free space on a plot of land. If we neglect these factors, then even a neighborhood that is favorable in theory will only bring problems in practice.

By studying the influence of plants on each other, a gardener increases the efficiency of his work. The summer resident transforms the appearance of the plot every year, because knowledge of the basics of garden allelopathy and garden crops allows you to create unique flower beds that produce a rich harvest and give beauty and joy.

All gardeners are trying to get as much harvest as possible from their plot of land. Planting only one vegetable crop on it will not achieve a good result. Therefore, they try to plant the prepared land with different types of vegetables or berries. Mixed plantings help increase yields and eliminate the use of chemicals.

What is mixed planting

Mixed plantings involve placing vegetable crops on a small plot of land that have a beneficial effect on each other, taking into account their characteristics. When planting, be sure to follow the rules for arranging plants with each other, taking into account their height, size and ripening period. They should not suppress each other’s growth, but create a certain microclimate or be protection from sunlight or wind.

Advantages of mixed vegetable plantings

Growing several types of plants in one place reduces soil fatigue and makes it possible to abandon annual crop rotation. Planting in compliance with all compatibility rules will increase the yield several times by the end of the season.

The main advantages of mixed plantings:

1. proper placement of vegetable crops allows harvesting from early spring until the first frost;
2. The area of ​​land allocated for a vegetable garden is used more rationally, from 1 sq.m. you can get up to 20 kg of vegetables with the right combination;
3. vegetable crops feed on different elements contained in the soil, which helps to avoid unilateral depletion of the soil;
4. substances secreted by the roots of one plant influence the taste and size of the neighboring vegetable, stimulating or suppressing;
5. the mixture of odors emitted by leaves or fruits of different crops play a role chemicals, which repel pests or prevent them from finding the desired plant.

Conditions for mixed plantings

Mixed plantings are part of biodynamic farming, which means growing vegetables and berries only using natural forces, without resorting to chemicals and artificial fertilizers. To get as much harvest as possible from each piece of land, follow these tips when planting in a mixed way:

1. The width of the future bed should be 1 m. This is the optimal size for further convenient processing and sowing.
2. The main, long-ripening crop is planted in the central part of the bed. It could be tomatoes or cabbage. By the end of the season, its growth will increase significantly, and it will occupy the area of ​​​​the entire bed.
3. Something that ripens quickly is planted on the sides of the bed. Such friendly crops can be greens - spinach, radishes, green salad. They are compatible with almost all vegetables and stimulate their growth. While the main crop grows, the side crops will already be collected and space will be freed up.
4. Plants for lateral planting are chosen to be small and stunted, with a small root system.
5. To protect against pests in an organic way, herbs with a strong aroma are planted in the garden bed - sage, basil, coriander, lemon balm or mint. There should be a lot of them so that the spicy fumes can repel pests and attract beneficial insects.

Undesirable neighborhood for vegetables

When different crops or varieties are grown in one area, an exchange occurs between them chemical compounds and the plant next door has a direct impact on the quality and quantity of the harvest. Before making a plan for planting vegetable and berry crops, figure out what placement should be avoided.

Cucumbers and tomatoes are not planted next to each other. Tomatoes require constant ventilation, and cucumbers require heat and high humidity.

Tomatoes are bad neighbors; they inhibit the growth of vegetables growing nearby. Does not provide negative influence such a neighborhood is only for garlic, beans, radishes and greens. Beans and vegetables such as carrots should not be placed next to cabbage; they inhibit the growth of each other. Place celery next to it and get a good harvest of both crops.

Sage and legumes should not be planted near the onion bed; they have an adverse effect on its growth and taste. For potatoes, cucumbers, celery and pumpkin are bad neighbors; close placement of tomatoes is also undesirable. You will not be able to get a good beet harvest if dill or potatoes are planted next to it.

Compatibility of vegetable crops in the garden

For each main vegetable crop, you can select a companion plant, interaction with which will stimulate growth, improve taste, providing both a biochemical and physical effect. Let's figure out how to choose the right companion plant and what combinations of vegetable crops attract beneficial insects.

What plants attract beneficial insects

Your garden plot must have conditions that attract beneficial insects. These include pollinating insects and insect predators. The latter fight pests, protecting vegetable crops from damage by them. Mixing smells different types vegetables and plants create a favorable environment for their habitat.

Especially beneficial insects are attracted to herbs. Predatory flies and wasps are attracted by the smell different varieties mint - catnip, peppermint. Hoverflies, which destroy aphids and soft-bodied insects, prefer flat, open flowers of vegetable crops and plants.

Marjoram, lemon balm, thyme, chamomile attract insects that pollinate their inflorescences and other flowering ovaries. Earthworms will be attracted to your beds by onion feathers, valerian and chicory roots.

Overseeding white clover under cabbage attracts predatory insects and spiders that eat caterpillars. In addition, it reduces the number of cabbage aphids and root flies. By planting cabbage next to celery, you can ensure the destruction of flea beetles, and proximity to aromatic herbs will scare away egg-laying cabbage butterflies.

Radishes in the same bed with cucumbers will protect against spider mites and leaf beetles, Not only useful plants attract pollinators to the garden. Do not rush to fight dandelions in the beds - thanks to their strong root system, they extract calcium from the depths of the earth, and their bright flowers Summons bees and other beneficial insects. The ethylene gas they produce promotes the rapid ripening of fruits and berries.

Good neighbors - vegetables in the garden

Legumes release nitrogen into the soil, which stimulates the growth of potatoes, radishes, and corn planted next to them.

Cucumbers and spinach good neighbors onions, thanks to them it grows well. Alternating rows of carrots and onions - classic combination, they repel pests from each other and grow without suppressing their neighbor.

Garlic and onions among strawberry tubers, although they will not affect the yield of the berries, will allow rational use of the area.

Parsley is the most common vegetable companion. They plant it on the sides of the bed next to tomatoes, strawberries, radishes, and lettuce.

Eggplants are famous for their compatibility with beans, peas, and basil. Zucchini accelerates its growth in the vicinity of mint, radishes and legumes.

Beets will give a good harvest, growing in the same bed with tomato seedlings and green salad.

Compatibility of vegetables and herbs on the site

Aromatic herbs, the leaves of which emit many volatile substances, excellent companions for many vegetables.

Onion growth increases significantly if it is surrounded by thyme or chamomile. In the company of marjoram, geranium or petunia, sweet peppers produce a good harvest. Tomatoes grow faster and have a richer taste if lily or leaf lettuces are planted next to them. Rosemary and sage are good neighbors for carrots and legumes.

Garlic is compatible with all vegetable crops; the substances secreted by its leaves help fight aphids and borers, and the ability to accumulate sulfur serves to prevent plant diseases.

The cabbage is surrounded with rosemary, thyme, and basil, which repel insect pests.

Spicy herbs in the garden not only have a beneficial effect on vegetable crops, but also give the beds an aesthetic appearance.

Mixed planting of vegetables in a greenhouse

Many types of crops should be grown in protected soil. Only in this way can you get the maximum result. Climate instability - extreme heat or frost - especially affects crop yields.

In a greenhouse you can grow seedlings, early greens, tomatoes, cucumbers or even watermelons. It also increases the period of harvesting vegetables - they will survive the first autumn frosts well.

How to draw up a scheme for planting plants in a greenhouse

All types of vegetables and plants can be grown in greenhouses. Mixed greenhouse plantings make it possible to achieve early harvest from several cultures at once. The quality and quantity of fruits will differ significantly from those grown in open ground during changeable weather.

Before filling the protected soil with vegetables, you should draw up a diagram in which you should clearly note:

1. crop planting schedule;
2. timing of replacing one with another;
3. Is it possible to supplement the beds with other plants or herbs?

When drawing up a diagram, take into account the location of the greenhouse relative to the sun: place peppers or tomatoes on the warm and sunny southern side. Cucumbers can be placed in the northern part.

Try to use every piece of land to make the operation of the greenhouse worth it.

Mixed greenhouse plantings are divided into spring and summer:

1. spring - for obtaining early greens and early ripening vegetables;
2. summer - for growing several types of crops throughout the season.

During the mixed planting period in the spring, spinach, parsley, dill, lettuce, radishes are planted - plants that will produce the first harvest within 30-45 days. The usual time for sowing them is mid-March.

In May, seedlings of tomatoes and cucumbers are planted, which were sown in advance in containers at the end of February or beginning of April. Until this moment, the previously planted vegetables and herbs will have already ripened and the planting space will be freed up.

During the summer mixed planting period, the principle of growing plants is slightly different. Basic vegetable crops need a central place to be placed so that they have room to grow without restrictions. Greens or tuberous vegetables are placed on the sides of such plantings using the compaction method.

What plants can be planted in one greenhouse?

Vegetable crops with similar requirements to the surrounding climate should be planted in one greenhouse. Cucumbers and tomatoes are not grown side by side, they need different conditions content. It is better to choose early neighbors for tomatoes. white cabbage, for cucumbers - celery, legumes or eggplants. Please note that shade-loving vegetables should be planted next to cucumbers; cucumber shoots can shade plants growing nearby.

Albina Kulabukhova, expert

Higher yields noted green beans when grown in greenhouse conditions. Place tomatoes or potatoes next to it, and this indicator will increase for both crops.

Some beds in greenhouses are separated from each other by polyethylene screens to provide each with an individual microclimate.

Video. Mixed plantings in greenhouses

Mixed planting is becoming increasingly popular among gardeners. Do you follow the rules of compatibility of vegetable crops when mixed planting on open ground or in a greenhouse? Does this affect the yield obtained at the end of the season? Share your experience of achieving maximum yield in the comments!