Bathroom faucets horizontal installation. Built-in wall

There is a huge selection of different wall-mounted mixers available. But they all differ only in design, technical specifications there are no fundamental differences. This greatly simplifies the installation process and makes it possible over time to replace old models with new ones without a lot of space. additional work. In the article we will look at examples for all occasions: repairing outdated communications for a new mixer, dismantling the old one and installing a new one.

The quality of water procedures depends not only on the correct installation, but also on the choice of installation location and the specific model of the mixer. If you already have an outlet for pipe sockets, then the location cannot be changed. This issue needs to be resolved at the stage of renovation of the premises. The choice of mixer should be approached carefully at any stage. To help with acceptance optimal solution, here is a brief comparison of the types of mixers and their performance characteristics.

Experienced plumbers recommend installing mixers with two valves in the middle price category. Such devices operate for many years without repairs, and the quality of water does not have any effect on the duration of operation. But the water in domestic homes is far from ideal.

Let's start with the simplest option: water sockets are made, the distance between them is standard 15 centimeters. Horizontally, the terminals are approximately at the same level. All small errors can be eliminated by adjusting the eccentrics.

Step 1. Check that the mixer is complete. All elements of the device, eccentrics and seals must be present.

Step 2. Turn off the water, remove the plugs from the sockets. Clean the threads and remove dirt. If plumbing has not been connected to the pipes before, it is advisable to flush them. To do this, place a container below to collect water, cover the sockets with a cloth to prevent a strong horizontal stream, and fully open the water supply tap. Strong pressure will remove all dirt and foreign objects. If this is not done, then while using the bathroom you will have to disassemble the faucet for cleaning.

Step 3. Wrap FUM tape around the eccentrics.

We strongly recommend using tape rather than traditional tow. It holds water perfectly for reliable sealing threaded connections do not need to be over-tightened. We have already mentioned above that silumin eccentrics react negatively to high forces. But the tape has one unpleasant property - it can only be used once. If you have not wound enough sealant, then you cannot rewind it onto the old one. It is completely removed and new material is used to seal it.

Applying plumbing paste to flax

To find out the approximate amount of tape to be wound, screw the eccentrics into the threads without a sealant. See if there is a large gap between them and if they wobble a lot. If the screwing is normal, then you need to wind 5–6 rows of tape; if the eccentrics are noticeably loose, then you will need 10–12 rows.

How to install eccentrics correctly? This is a very important point.

Important. Never install faucets with force; we have already said that silumin will certainly crack over time. Leaks will appear and repairs will have to be made. In addition, a cracked eccentric may break off completely, leaving part of the thread in the socket. It is very difficult to get it out of there. We will tell you how to do this below.

1. Remove the mixer, place a level on the two eccentrics and align them horizontally. Carefully turn both at once, making sure that the distance between them does not change.

   To control, constantly apply a mixer to the thread. When screwing in the eccentrics, you should always remember that the ends must be located in the same plane, otherwise the mixer will be at an angle to the wall, which will complicate installation. But this is not all the problems. In order to tightly press the rubber gaskets into the device in this position, great efforts have to be made, these forces will constantly act on the elements. We have already said that eccentrics react extremely negatively to long-term static loads, a fatigue effect appears, and the metal cracks. As a result, leaks and the inevitability of repairs.

2. Everything is normal - install the decorative protective caps and tighten the faucet.

   The nuts have a thin decorative coating, so as not to damage it with a wrench, use any spacers. Rubber gaskets are most often installed between the eccentrics and the mixer; there is no need to tighten them too much for several reasons. Firstly, the rubber may cut through, leaks will appear, and the gaskets will have to be changed. Secondly, gaskets serve not only to seal the connection, but also to compensate for thermal expansion. As a rule, when heated, the mixer increases in size more than the eccentrics; the rubber easily compensates for these differences. But if you compress it too much, then this function will not be performed, as a result of cracks and leaks.

Practical advice. There are often situations when the length of the threaded part of the eccentrics is so large that it cannot be covered with decorative caps, and a gap is visible between them and the wall. This is very ugly, don’t allow this to happen. Before installation, screw them on without a seal, replace the decorative caps and attach the faucet. If there is a problem, use a grinder to shorten the thread. This must be done carefully; cut the thread only at right angles to the axis. Be sure to straighten the first turn with a triangular file. To check, run the thread with a nut of the appropriate diameter and pitch. Ideally, the eccentrics should be pressed tightly against the wall with the mixer mounting nuts.

You can find other recommendations for leveling the mixer. Screw it to the eccentrics and place a level on the body. Next, turn one of the nuts with a wrench, due to the fact that the body is attached, both eccentrics will rotate through the lever at once. We do not recommend using this method. Why? Firstly, it will take a lot of force on the nut to turn two eccentrics at the same time. This cannot be done, we have already mentioned why. Secondly, this nut can cut through the rubber gasket; we also talked about the consequences. And thirdly, the thread with FUM tape cannot be unscrewed, it can only be tightened. Otherwise, leaks may occur.

Features of installing mixers on an open water supply system

Bathroom faucets can have a hidden or open supply of cold and hot water; the latter option exists in old houses and is almost never used at present.

In addition to aesthetic problems, external wiring has a very significant drawback: Condensation constantly accumulates on cold pipes, often so much that drops fall on the floor and furniture. Such phenomena do not decorate the bathroom; we do not recommend installing faucets on exposed wiring. If you have this option for utility networks, then you should not be lazy and hide the pipes.

There will be a lot of work, there will be a lot of noise and construction waste from gating walls, you will have to deal with plastering or other finishing works. But final result worth it.

Condensation will accumulate on open pipes

In terms of technology, installing a bathroom faucet on an open water supply system is no different from the one described above. The only note is to check the tightness of fixation of the pipeline sockets. They are fixed with dowels; often the length and diameter of the hardware are selected without taking into account the loads.

And one more piece of advice. You should not install heavy faucets in this way; plastic fittings are not designed for heavy loads.

How to replace a broken eccentric on a faucet

We have already mentioned several times that the quality of the eccentrics is far from desirable, and therefore the appearance of leaks due to cracks is quite common. The same problems can arise when replacing an old faucet; when unscrewing the old adapters, they crack.

How to minimize the likelihood of unpleasant situations occurring?

1. Do not use much force when unscrewing old eccentrics. Keep the key as close to the thread as possible, turn it strictly in a circle, and do not press to the sides.
2. With your free hand, press the eccentric, “recess” it into the thread. During screwing, the resistance force should gradually decrease. If this does not happen and with each revolution you need to apply increased effort, then tighten it a little and start unscrewing again. Make movements with the key from left to right, gradually increasing twisting.
3. If you are replacing the eccentrics because they are slightly cracked and leaking, then you need to be extra careful and not allow them to break off completely. Press the free end of the element against the thread, unscrew it very slowly, do not allow distortions.

Unfortunately, these recommendations do not always help to avoid breaking off the eccentrics; often the threaded part remains in the socket. It is quite difficult to unscrew it from there, but it is possible. The work is much easier to do if FUM tape, rather than tow, was used for sealing. When sealing threaded connections using tape, unlike tow, you do not need to tighten the eccentrics with great force. Accordingly, it is much easier to unscrew them. This is another argument in favor of using such a sealant.

There are two ways to unscrew the broken threaded part of the eccentric from the socket.

The first is using a hacksaw blade for metal.

Step 1. Using a hacksaw, carefully cut a groove into the broken thread. Do this very carefully, try to damage the threads in the socket as little as possible and never saw through it completely. If the groove damages the thread to its full depth, then there will definitely be leaks.

To make work easier, break off the end of the hacksaw blade without teeth. Make sure that when cutting, the teeth are facing towards you, and not vice versa.

Practical advice. The job will be much easier if you have a quality hacksaw. Never buy a blade that only has black teeth and the rest of the metal is white. By painting, manufacturers only imitate the hardening process; the hacksaw does not have the required hardness. The fact is that the canvas can be hardened by heating with an open flame or high-frequency currents. Both technologies are only possible when the entire blade is heated, and not just a narrow strip of teeth. It is impossible to heat a part of the web with high-frequency currents because physical laws. And when only the teeth are heated by a flame, it is impossible to withstand hardening conditions.

Step 2. Try using a screwdriver to pry up the broken piece of thread and loosen it a little. If that doesn’t work, cut a second groove nearby in the same way.

Step 3. Remove the sawn strip; it will have to be broken off. We have already said that it is forbidden to completely saw through the threads on a broken piece. Pry it with the tip of a screwdriver and try to bend it and remove it with a hammer. Silumin, from which the eccentrics are made, is a fragile metal and will be removed after several attempts.

Step 4. Using the tips of the pliers, unscrew the broken piece; it should come out easily. Clean the threads in the socket from residual sealant, check the condition, and run it with a new eccentric.

This method of removing a broken part is quite labor-intensive and unsafe - there is a high probability of damage to the threads in the socket.

Video - The eccentric is broken. How to get it out?

Step 1. Select any metal conical object with sharp edges, the width of the edges should be equal to internal diameter broken off threaded part of the eccentric. A large triangular file works great; if you don’t have one, you can use a grinder to cut such a device from a steel strip. By the way, it will always be useful to the home handyman.

Step 2. Insert the smaller tapered part into the hole and push it until the sharp edges rest against the body of the thread piece.

Step 3. Gently tap the back side with a hammer; the edges should make small indentations in the metal.

Step 4. With one hand, press on the free end of the device, and with the other, slowly begin to unscrew. You can use any suitable wrenches or pliers. The main thing is to move the thread from its place, after which it unscrews easily.

This method allows you to keep the socket thread intact; re-tightening the eccentric is not a problem. And you don’t have to worry about tightness, everything will be fine.

These types of devices can only be mounted on solid foundations. If the walls are finished with clapboard, plasterboard, panels, etc., then installing a mixer on them is impossible. Take this feature into account even at the stage of bathroom renovation. If you are doing a major renovation of old premises, then immediately recess the cold and hot water supply pipes. In this case, several conditions must be met.

1. The distance between water supply outlets is approximately 15 centimeters. This parameter is suitable for the vast majority of wall-mounted mixers, except for expensive exclusive options.

   Water socket

2. Fix sockets very securely to the walls. If you plan to install the mixer on a partition made of foam blocks, then take a set of measures to increase the fixation strength. The main disadvantage of foam concrete is its low strength, and the use of special dowels will not help in our case. It is advisable to make conical holes in the places where the sockets are fixed in the blocks with the top of the cone facing outwards, fill them with a cement-sand mixture with an increased amount of cement and install dowels in this material. To increase the strength of the fastening, the socket should be sealed with mortar around the entire perimeter.
3. When installing, consider the thickness finishing walls If you are planning ceramic tiles, then the thickness of the adhesive is approximately 0.5 cm, the same thickness of the tile. Consider these parameters when installing water sockets. After the final finishing of the walls, some should lie in the same plane as the ceramic tiles; do not recess them. The fact is that, if necessary, you can easily cut off a piece of thread of an eccentric that is too long; this is imperceptible and does not have any negative effect on the tightness of the connection. If the sockets are very far from the surface and the eccentric thread grips them only a few turns, then problems arise. Lengthen internal thread using a set of adapters is possible, although such manipulations will always be noticeable. True, reputable plumbing equipment stores have eccentrics with various length parameters, but not every master has the opportunity to visit such establishments. This is especially true for residents of villages and small towns.
4. Once the sockets are soldered to the pipes, immediately close their internal openings. It is better to use special plastic plugs; if they are not available, then use paper or pieces of fabric. Take all measures to ensure that no mortar or construction debris gets inside during construction work.
5. If possible, it is recommended to install special strips for sockets under the mixer. The strips increase the reliability of fixation, but they also have one drawback - you will have to widen the mounting hole.
6. Before slicing the walls, make markings on them. You need two vertical lines and one horizontal. Draw the lines of such length that they allow you to control the position of the sockets after cutting the holes. Apply even slats or rulers to them and fix the sockets along the axes.
7. When marking the position of water sockets, take into account the features of ceramic tiles. Tilers find it very difficult to cut corner holes in the ends of tiles and they often crack. Slightly shift the position of the sockets in one direction or another so that they come out in the center of the tiles. The holes in the center can be drilled with a crown without any problems, the finish is neat and beautiful.

Wall mounted mixer with shower

Video - How to install a bathroom faucet on the wall

Sometimes it seems that installing a faucet in the bathroom can only be done by professionals. Especially if this question was presented to an inexperienced owner. Everything looks complicated, incomprehensible, and this makes it even more frightening. But you can cope with this task yourself, just having a little understanding of the intricacies of the process.

We will tell you how not to make a mistake when choosing a mixer, what parameters to pay attention to when purchasing a device, and also provide step-by-step instructions for installing it.

We supplemented all stages of assembly and installation with detailed diagrams and visual photographs. For a better understanding of the process, video clips with instructions on how to install the crane are provided.

The need to install a faucet in the bathroom may arise due to various reasons– due to a full-scale repair, breakdown of an old familiar unit, or simply wanted to change a boring model.

If it's one of the two latest options, then dealing with the issue will be quite easy. The main thing is to calmly understand the device, installation features and the most common errors.

When installing a new faucet with a shower head on the wall, you need to focus on the convenience of the owner. The height of the watering can attachment depends on the individual needs of a particular person.

As for the variety of models, for a bathroom sink it is more advisable to choose not only nice option, but also convenient. You should pay attention so that during the process of washing your hands and washing your face, it is convenient to place your palms under the stream of water.

Here, the original low models with a small tap are an order of magnitude inferior - after all, it is completely inconvenient to perform daily hygiene procedures with such a tap. A mixer without a tap is also not the best option for a washbasin, but for bath procedures it may be just right.

Step-by-step installation of a mixer yourself

Having decided to install the faucet yourself, you must first buy it, then prepare the necessary tools and, having unpacked the box with the new faucet, you can begin the installation process.

But first, let's talk a little more about what it is used for the bathroom.

A traditional faucet typically consists of two valves that control the flow of hot and cold water into the mixing chamber. To ensure their operation, such parts as a lock washer, a special seal - oil seal, gaskets, axle box, coupling with guides, and a seat are used.

All this is in an already assembled state, which does not require additional attention when installing a new mixer.

Image gallery

Step 1. Checking the product contents

Having chosen the best option for your bathroom, you will have to consider the contents of the box - open all the bags and boxes that are in the packaging with the purchased model.

If this is a bath mixer, then in the bag you can find a shower head, a flexible hose for it and an additional fastening - a holder rod. It must be mounted on the wall, the side of the bathtub, or on the faucet body to hold the watering can.

Also a faucet with valves or a lever, which must be connected to the rest of the parts according to the instructions. The kit necessarily includes a set of sealing gaskets, nuts, decorative reflectors for the wall, adapter eccentric bushings and a spout for the tap.

Having considered all the components, it is not at all necessary to study from which spare parts they are assembled. It is enough to carefully screw everything on, following the instructions supplied by the manufacturer in the kit.

Step #2. Required tools for installation

Before starting installation, it is best to prepare all the tools and parts that may be useful:

• box with mixer and all its components;
• pliers, building level, tape measure, adjustable wrench, open-end wrenches;
• flax tow and Unipak/silicone paste or special sealing fum tape;
• soft cloth/small towel, paper napkins/toilet paper.

All of these components will be needed during the installation process. It would be good to use tools without teeth, but if there are none, then in order not to scratch the top coating of the devices and its parts, a cloth or towel should be placed on them.

This technique will help protect against external mechanical damage, which is especially important for home craftsmen installing a mixer for the first time.

It’s convenient to prepare all the tools for installation in advance, rather than having to constantly interrupt and go looking for the right part.

The paper will be useful to thoroughly wipe everything after installation and check if anything is leaking. If so, then you will have to disassemble everything and reassemble it, not forgetting to tightly screw each connection and put gaskets on each nut.

Step #3. Preparing the site for installing the crane

Before installing a mixer, do not ignore generally accepted standards. So, if the faucet is installed to simultaneously service a bathtub and washbasin, then, according to the standards, the installation height must be at least 1 m from the floor level.

Depending on the functions performed and location, the height will be different:

• 80 cm from floor level– for a mixer serving a bathtub;
• 20 cm from the side of the washbasin- For ;
• not lower than 120 cm from the floor- If .

Another point that requires attention is the installation location of the crane. Depending on it, the main installation process will differ. If this is simply replacing an old faucet with a new one, then first you need to remove the used one.

In case there is a need for repairs with a full replacement of the old ones water pipes new ones, you need to carefully consider where the plumbing will be installed in order to provide for the installation of water sockets in the appropriate places.

To install the fittings to which the mixer will be attached, you need to carefully calculate the distance between the cold and hot water pipes - exactly 15 cm. It is important that they are strictly horizontal to each other.

Also, the fittings should not be too long - they should end flush with the facing material bathroom or be a couple of mm smaller.

Having completed the work of removing the fittings, you can begin the standard installation of mixers.

Step #4. Mounting a faucet on a wall

The most important thing in installing faucets yourself is not to overtighten the nuts so that nothing bursts or breaks. After all, buying new parts for a new mixer is extremely unpleasant and annoying. Therefore, there is no need to rush and tighten everything tightly - it is better to twist it a little tighter later than to run to the plumbing store.

Vertical type faucets are typically installed directly on the wall, from which water pipes with cold and hot water. Ideally, the distance between water outlets should be at least 15 cm, but almost always a persistent discrepancy can be found here.

To correct this shortcoming, special adapter bushings - eccentrics - are designed. These are slightly curved parts with threads on both sides. It happens that the length of the eccentrics included with the mixer is not enough. In this case, you need to buy these longer spare parts separately.

The first step before starting installation is to turn off the taps on the pipes with hot and cold water using your hands or keys suitable size- it all depends on what kind of taps are in a particular room.

Then, after making sure that no water is flowing, you can remove the old faucet. To do this, you will need to use prepared tools, unscrewing the nuts and removing all the old parts one by one.

Having reached the water pipes, some craftsmen leave the old eccentrics without changing them. But, they definitely check the suitability for further use.

Remove the old faucet carefully so as not to damage it. facing tiles on the wall and the enamel of the bath itself

Before screwing in the eccentric bushings, you should carefully wrap a sealant - tow - around the threads. Then apply a thin layer of silicone or Unipak paste on it.

After screwing in these parts, you need to check their horizontal position relative to each other using a level and, and with a tape measure, check the distance between them. If everything is in order, then you can proceed with further assembly. Now we need to screw on the decorative reflective cups that cover the holes in the wall.

Afterwards, you can connect the mixer inlet pipes with eccentric bushings, using the union nuts supplied in the kit. Be sure to place a gasket under the nuts. After carefully tightening everything, connect the spout and a flexible shower hose, to which the watering can is screwed.

Now we need to check whether everything is installed properly and whether there are any leaks. You need to open the taps responsible for supplying water to the apartment and turn on the newly installed mixer.

It is better to check first with a small pressure, then increase the power of the jet until it stops. If everything is fine, then be sure to switch the water to the shower hose and check how this part of the system works.

Eccentrics come in different lengths. A short one can be replaced with a longer one, and a very long one can be shortened by cutting off the excess

If there are no leaks, you can congratulate yourself on your first independent one, and most importantly - correct installation. If there is a leak, then you have to carefully look at where exactly it is happening, then turn off the water again, remove everything that was installed, and carefully repeat the process again.

It is important to carefully inspect each gasket and nut - perhaps some fastening was over-tightened, which led to damage to one of the parts. The tow on the eccentrics will also have to be re-wound.

Step #5. Installation of a horizontal type mixer

Having figured out how to independently install a vertical type faucet in the bathroom, we will consider the option of horizontal installation. It differs from the previous one in that either bathtubs have special holes for the mixer.

Sometimes there are no such holes, but the width of the sides allows for this type of installation. This is where you have to work hard - cut holes for the faucet on the bathtub shelf yourself.

This work must be done very carefully so as not to damage the coating of the container. Home craftsmen have become adept at cutting holes not only in acrylic, but also in steel and cast iron bathtubs without damaging the enamel.

The main convenience of this type of mixer is that the location of the water pipes can be at any distance. This will not prevent you from installing the selected faucet model - it must be connected using flexible hoses or copper tubes.

The vertical type of faucet is most often installed separately on the sink in the bathroom - it is more convenient and aesthetically pleasing than using one faucet for the washbasin and bathtub (+)

Screwing it on horizontal mixer into special plumbing holes, it must be additionally secured with a pressure washer and gasket. Flexible hoses must first be threaded into the hole on which the faucet will be installed.

Now the hoses must be connected to water pipes with cold and hot water, using tow or special fum tape as a seal.

After these manipulations, all that remains is to check the quality of your work - open the taps that shut off the water supply to the apartment and turn on the mixer. If nothing is leaking anywhere, the faucet is installed correctly. Otherwise, you need to disassemble everything and do all the work again.

Before installation work It is necessary to shut off the water pipes so as not to flood the neighbors below. Self-installation will take a little time and will save on the service of a plumber.

Do you have experience replacing an old faucet or installing a new faucet? Or still have questions on the topic? Please share your opinion and leave comments. The contact form is located below.

Sooner or later, there always comes a time when apartment owners have to change plumbing fixtures that have expired or, in their opinion, are morally and technically outdated and do not meet increased requirements for functionality or even appearance. One of the questions that is most often asked is “which bathroom faucet with shower should I choose?”

This question is not as simple as it might initially seem. It was not difficult with this matter 20 ÷ 25 years ago - you go to the store, and, if you are lucky, you buy what is there, and you are already satisfied with it! But the modern range of plumbing devices offered to the consumer can even confuse - make right choice This is possible only if you understand at least a little about the structure, classification, materials of manufacture and other issues.

And the appearance of the crane, which is, of course, very important, still should not become the decisive selection criterion. Practice shows that low-quality products from dubious manufacturers are most often given the appearance that attracts increased attention.

If the new mixer is installed in place of the one being dismantled, then, of course, the possibilities for choosing models based on their location are not particularly wide. But in the case when a major remodeling of the bathroom interior is planned with the laying of new utilities and replacement of all plumbing equipment, the owners have “space” in terms of selection the most optimal sample.

1. Most common and the most commonly used option in a bathroom is a wall-mounted mixer with a connection to pipes hidden by decorative trim. If the pipes are not planned to be “retracted” into the wall, then the mixer can be mounted to vertically located open risers for supplying cold and hot water.

• “Classic”, the simplest type of connection - using ¾-inch union nuts using rubber (silicone) gaskets to horizontal pipes. For precise alignment of the axes of pipes and mixer and for the transition from ½ to ¾ ʺ, usually, eccentrics are used.

In order not to leave the installation connection points visible, decorative caps are pre-screwed onto the threads of the eccentrics. Further installation is to accurately set the center distance (shtikhmas) and carefully, without distortion, tighten the union nuts.

1 – protruding threaded part of the eccentric 3/4 ʺ.

3 – mixer union nut.

4 – sealing gasket.

In terms of ease of installation, such mixers have no equal, which is why they are probably the most common. In addition, models with a similar connection scheme are among the most inexpensive in price.

• If you want to bring something new to your bathroom interior, you can also purchase a wall-mounted faucet, the connection points of which are completely hidden from view by the mono-body of the device itself. The connection principle in this case does not change much, but the installation itself will require more effort, accuracy and intelligence, and mandatory adherence to the instructions developed by the manufacturer. But these “troubles” are very justified original look such devices.

• This option is quite expensive and difficult to install on your own, when on the wall there are only controls, a spout and a shower head with a hose, assembled according to the monoblock principle or spaced apart separate elements along the surface.

Such mixers are a set of parts and assemblies intended for external installation and for installation in the thickness of a wall structure. A rigid or flexible connection is provided from the water pipes to the control block and from it to the spout and shower. High-quality indoor units are protected by special housings that are not afraid of being embedded in mortars.

Such devices are very expensive, and to install them yourself requires considerable experience in plumbing, general construction, and decorative finishing work.

2. Next type installation of the mixer - on the bath itself. Of course, we are talking about either bathrooms that have specially designed mounting platforms with holes for this purpose, or acrylic or fiberglass ones, on which neat holes can be drilled for further installation. There are also several options available here.

• One of the most simple options– one hole is used, and the mixer itself is very similar to its “brothers”, which are installed in or on kitchen sinks.

The principle of installation and connection here is also not particularly different from faucets installed on sinks.

• Another option is a kind of “retro style”. Decorative pipes are installed in the installation holes of the bathroom, supplying hot and cold water, and the mixer itself is directly connected to them.

Of course, the stand pipes themselves are an integral part of the mixer set and are made in the same style. They often have very bizarre shapes, emphasizing the unusual nature of the ensemble being created. The connection to such faucets is carried out from below, under the bathtub, and most often flexible hoses are used for this.

• For bathrooms designed in modern style, the faucet controls, spout and shower can be located on a horizontal platform on the side of the bathroom.

Installing such devices should also not cause any particular difficulties for an owner who is familiar with the basics of plumbing technology. The kit is always accompanied by detailed instructions with an assembly drawing, such as, for example, shown in the figure:

Example of connecting a four-position mixer installed on a bathtub:

1 – mixing unit with a cartridge-type adjusting single-lever valve.

2 – faucet-switch flow “spout - shower”.

3 – cascade type spout.

4 – shower head, which is located in a special glass (item 5).

6 and 7 – flexible connection from the water supply network.

8 and 9 are flexible connections that connect the main components of the mixer.

Flexible hoses 6 to 9 are usually not included in the kit and must be purchased separately depending on the installation specifics. But these are just ordinary water hoses with ½ inch connectors. It is always possible to place the faucet elements on the bathtub in a convenient location at the desired distance from one another.

10 – flexible connection with an adapter for connecting a shower hose.

11 – retractable shower hose passed through a glass (item 5). When not in use it is hidden under the bathtub.

Installing such a mixer should not be difficult if you are careful and use high-quality components.

In some models, instead flexible connection hard is used between nodes. This will require selecting the mixer as accurately as possible to the existing holes in the bathtub, or increased care when marking if the slots for installation will be drilled independently.

Another variation when installing a faucet on a bathtub is that all controls are placed on one horizontal panel located on the side.

Due to the fact that such a design turns out to be quite massive, and the load falls on a localized area, very often such mixers have their own stands, which rest against the floor. A window is cut out on the side of the bathtub, in which the mixer is mounted; the acrylic or fiberglass wall itself does not experience any weight loads.

In addition, another possibility opens up for installing the mixer - not on the bath itself, but close to it, from the end or side. In this case, it will be easy to cover the structure itself with decorative finishing, for example, by mounting a box and covering it with ceramic tiles.

3. Following in line fashion trend To install the bathtub not in the “classic” place - against the wall, but in the center of the room (if there is enough space), designers have developed special models of faucets that are installed on the floor.

This is, of course, a rather rare case of application in everyday practice. The cost of such models is high; they require special water pipes hidden under the floor surface.

However, the demand for mixers of this type is still stable, and model series are represented by products in both a retro style (for example, as shown in the figure above) and innovative, modernist designs.

The main types of mixers are discussed. Now you should take a closer look at their components and components.

Differences between mixers by “controls”

Any mixer for a bathtub with a shower involves mixing water from cold and hot pipelines to the required temperature, as well as the ability to switch already mixed flow onto the spout or shower head.

Adjusting the supply of cold and hot water

Two-valve flow mixing system

Once upon a time, such a system was, in principle, the only one. AND although More modern approaches to mixing flows have appeared, and a similar scheme successfully competes with them. Moreover, it is precisely this that is used in all faucets made in retro style.

“Classics of the genre” - mixer with two valves

The standard layout is two taps with handwheels located to the left and right of the spout. Each valve regulates its own flow - cold or hot water, and the mixing itself takes place in a separate chamber of the plumbing fixture.

This scheme is characterized by its simplicity of design and is easy to repair. Setting the water temperature is not difficult in itself, but simultaneous control of both the flow intensity and the degree of heating is quite difficult. However, for systems with autonomous instantaneous water heaters(for example, geysers) it is recommended to use just such a scheme.

Axle-box taps are used as locking and adjustment mechanisms. Despite their external similarity and the same mounting thread for installation in the mixer, they can differ significantly.

Crane axle box with rubber gasket - plug

Crane axle boxes with a rubber gasket that blocks the flow of water. The rotation of the flywheel through a worm gear is converted into the translational movement of a rod with a valve placed at the end, on which there is a round rubber gasket. It may take several turns from fully opening to closing.

The advantages of such a faucet are simplicity of design, the ability to replace the gasket, and undemanding requirements for water purity. Among the disadvantages, there is a fairly rapid wear of the seal and the appearance of play in the mechanical transmission of rotation. There is one more feature that will be felt when high temperatures– imbalance of the set heating level. The fact is that the rubber disk, when heated strongly, changes its linear dimensions, thickens and increases radially, thereby violating the set clearance for the passage of water. It is possible that you will have to adjust the temperature several times during the washing process.

The device and principle of operation of a faucet with a ceramic valve is completely different. The valve itself consists of two plates tightly ground to another with “windows” cut into them. Rotation of the plates relative to each other leads to a change in the area of ​​the lumen or to its complete closure. The operating cycle of such a crane can be limited to one revolution, half or even a quarter.

Such taps are very convenient; they allow you to accurately set the intensity of the flow through them, which will not change with temperature changes. The disadvantage is increased sensitivity to water contamination - solid inclusions caught between the ceramic plates can very quickly lead to their wear and failure. If you decide to install such axle boxes, you should also think about a reliable filtration system. By the way, mechanical cleaning water will be useful for any type of faucets.

Replacing a failed axle box is an easy task for any owner. Their cost is also low - this largely determines the wide popularity of mixers of this design.

Find out which one to choose, and also familiarize yourself with the varieties and installation, from our new article.

Single lever control circuit

The most popular among consumers are mixers equipped with one lever for simultaneous regulation of both flow intensity and temperature.

“One-armed” faucets are very popular these days.

The lever moves in two planes, and the regulation and mixing of flows is carried out in a special cartridge.

This is what a replacement faucet cartridge usually looks like...

Inside the cartridge there are also two ceramic plates with windows. The operating principle is shown in the diagram below:

... and here is the principle of its operation

The cartridge lever is shown with a dotted line.

• In fragment “a”, the lever is lowered, and the plate associated with it completely blocks the flow of water from both the hot and cold supply.
• When the lever is raised in the central position (fragment “b”), windows open to allow water to enter the mixing chamber from both feeds, with the passage area being equal on the left and right. The lifting height of the lever will correspond to the opening width of the liquid ducts, that is, this is how the flow intensity is regulated
• Moving the lever to the left or right (fragment “c”) increases the free passage area for one of the feeds, respectively, reducing the opposite one, until it is completely closed. In this case, the total cross-section of the water flow does not change in principle. This is how the outlet water temperature is adjusted.

A slightly different scheme can also be used - the cartridge does not consist of ground-in plates, but is a hollow sphere with windows for water to enter into it, moving relative to the supply holes.

A high-quality cartridge can last quite a long time. When choosing, you should pay attention to what the valve itself is made of. There are products made not of ceramics, but with polymer plates, and, despite the assurances of manufacturers, their service life is much shorter. The cheapness of the product in this case does not in any way justify the need for frequent replacement.

The control lever does not have to be centrally located - there are many other design solutions

The layout of the mixer itself with one lever (joystick) can be very diverse. The developers offer models with top, front, and side levers, but the principle of operation does not change.

Faucets with built-in thermostat

If funds allow, you can purchase a mixer in which the water temperature is adjusted according to a thermostat circuit.

Typically, such devices have two flywheels equipped with a locking system. On one side, the flywheel sets the exact outlet water temperature - for this purpose, a corresponding scale is marked on it. On the other side of the mixer, a flow intensity regulator is structurally located - in different models it can change smoothly or stepwise.

The advantages of mixers of this type are obvious:

• Complete safety for the recipient is guaranteed water procedures. Even if there is very hot water in the water supply, in the boiler or at the outlet of the flow-through heater, there is no risk of scalding - from from The drain or shower head will supply water at a strictly verified, pre-set temperature.
• Water consumption becomes much more economical. The regulation device will produce the required output pressure, regardless of the pressure level in the pipes. In addition, such a mixer will also provide savings in terms of energy consumption for heating water - only the right amount will always be spent.
• Many of the models are equipped with safety devices that clearly and quick to respond for possible changes at the inlet - pressure drops or even interruption of supply.

There is only one drawback to such faucets - you need to be prepared to pay a fairly large sum for convenience.

The most modern are faucets equipped with electronics, which are responsible for the thermostatic control of the outgoing water, the pressure, and the switching of operating modes.

Such models can be equipped with touch controls and liquid crystal displays showing settings and current system parameters. Of course, the cost of such devices is very impressive.

Switching mechanism "spout - shower"

If you do not take into account the most “sophisticated” models, in which the electronics “manage” the switching of modes, then the mixer necessarily has one or another external control element, which has the task of redirecting the mixed flow of water from from pour into the shower and back.

The switching mechanism itself (it is often called “diverter”, the name “divertor” is also found) can be of several types. Some of them are shown in the figure:

Schematic diagrams for spout-shower switches

a – spool-type switch. The rotation of the lever to switch modes is transmitted by an eccentric shaft. This, in turn, moves the spool rod to its extreme positions, on both sides of which there are plugs with rubber seals. Thus, one tightly overlaps from the exits from mixer - either shower or spout.

The advantages of such a mechanism are simplicity, reliability, it is easy to sort it out yourself and replace worn parts.

The disadvantage is that the rubber gaskets wear out quite quickly, after which unwanted water bypass begins. In addition, there are cases of breakdown and jamming of the eccentric mechanism.

b – diver with a ball-shaped valve. The ball, connected to the flywheel axis, is surrounded by tightly fitting polymer gaskets. There is a channel in the body of the ball, which, depending on the position of the switch, connects the outlet from the mixing chamber either with the shower or with the spout.

The system is very simple and reliable. There is simply nothing to break in it, and its service life is limited only by the gradual wear of the plastic gaskets. But such divers are usually integrated into the body, and if they fail, they usually entail replacing the entire mixer.

c – cartridge type switch. The design is somewhat similar to the cartridge of a single-lever mixer - two ground-in ceramic plates with windows, the position of which determines the direction of water flow.

Such switches are famous for their very light, soft movement, duration of trouble-free use. The cartridge is placed in the mixer body, and if signs of plate wear appear, it is easy to replace it with a new one.

Switches have become extremely widespread exhaust principle actions.

Their body uses a poppet-type valve connected by a rod to a pull handle (button). “By default,” the valve, under the influence of a spring, is held in a position that cuts off the outlet to the shower, leaving a free path for water into the spout.

If you pull the button, the valve will change position, closing the spout and opening the shower hose into the connection pipe. The valve is held in this position by water pressure. If the pressure decreases or stops completely, the spring will return the valve plate to initial position, separation of the outlet into the spout. It is very convenient from the point of view that if someone who took water procedures forgot to switch the divewater, then there is no risk of getting a “water charge” by the collar from the shower head hanging on the wall.

Often the pressure in the water supply network is not enough to keep the switch in the “shower” position. Developers of mixers provide this possibility - the button can be fixed in an extended position by turning it around its axis to the left or right by 90 degrees.

Such switches are simple to install and inexpensive, but it is often difficult to find a replacement or repair kit for a specific mixer model if the device is integrated into its body.

Based on what was said about flow switches above, it is worth dwelling on one more feature of them. Look at the picture below. It would seem that there are three almost identical faucets on it. However, they differ radically in the location of the diver.

a – the switch is integrated into the body of the mixer. This scheme is considered the most reliable, since leaks are practically eliminated. Another advantage is the compactness of the entire device. The diver can be positioned as shown in the figure, or it can be placed on a stationary spout, which, in principle, is structurally part of the body.

The disadvantage of this scheme: if the switch fails, then repair is very difficult (unless, of course, it is a cartridge), and in some cases even not possible at all. Thus, the failure of one unit may lead to the replacement of the entire mixer.

b – the switch is a separate block, which is located between the mixer body and the movable spout. Advantages: high versatility, since the size of the thread usually makes such divers suitable for most models of this type. A mechanism failure is just a minor nuisance, since purchasing a switch and replacing it in this arrangement is a piece of cake.

The disadvantages are obvious. Firstly, an extra connecting node appears, that is, a vulnerable spot. Secondly, when using a shower, dynamic forces are transmitted through the hose to this interface of the body, switch and spout, which leads to its loosening and the appearance of leaks. And thirdly, the height of the entire mixer assembly seriously increases, which can be very inconvenient. Nevertheless, due to its high maintainability, the scheme is extremely popular.

c – this option is most likely a tribute to “vintage” rather than a rational approach. It is unlikely that it will be convenient to use a shower that is connected by a hose directly to a movable spout, and even so that the point of application of force forms a lever in relation to the axis of rotation of the “gander”. And how long will the seals last in this case? threaded connections between the body and the spout? As is clear even from the figure, if such a switch breaks down in any way, it will be necessary to look for a new spout. True, nothing will prevent the owner from switching to option “b”.

Spout design

Long swivel spouts are still at the peak of popularity. They are convenient because you can move location the stream falling from it, especially in those cases when you need to fill a bucket or basin with water, or if you are washing and rinsing clothes in the bathroom.

Once upon a time, during mass urban housing construction, the typical arrangement was one in which it was located at the end of the bathtub, slightly rising above the edge and blocking it. This is where the design of faucets with a long curved spout came from, which could be turned either for use in the bath or for washing.

Today, most owners prefer to install separate devices at each water point, but, nevertheless, this design shows enviable survivability.

When choosing such a mixer, it is necessary to take into account the length of the spout and its sector of rotation. The rotating unit is always a weak point, so you should pay special attention to its quality.

Faucets with a fixed short spout, which is essentially a continuation of the body, do not have such disadvantages. Yes, the stream is always directed to the same point, but for taking a bath this is quite enough. But the device itself is much more compact, lighter, and more reliable in operation.

Faucets with a short, fixed spout are more reliable

The design of fixed spouts can be very different - from retro style to the most unusual modern forms.

Spouts occupy a completely separate niche so-called "cascade" type. Water flows out of them like beautiful waterfall. At the same time, its consumption is significantly higher than when using conventional spouts.

It looks, of course, very original. How to evaluate the practicality of such a spout from the point of view everyday use– the question is, of course, controversial.

Design of shower head and connecting hose

Undoubtedly the most important elements The entire bathroom faucet set consists of a shower and a hose or pipe leading to it. Let's take a closer look at these accessories.

The simplest option is watering cans, which simply break the water flow into many thin streams and do not have any other functions. It is interesting that such showers are becoming less and less common - they are gradually being replaced by more modern multifunctional models.

Nevertheless, for many such a simple design is quite enough. And designers of manufacturing companies, to please consumers, produce ordinary watering cans in a wide variety of designs.

However, a discerning buyer will often prefer to choose a shower head with switchable operating modes. In the simplest models of this type there are two or three modes, for example, normal, soft with aeration flow, and hard massage jets.

Models are also available with significantly big amount available modes – the only question is how often they will be used in practice.

The material for making watering cans is plastic or metal. Polymer watering cans are cheaper, but are of lower quality and can crack if handled carelessly. On the other hand, it won’t be a shame to replace them from time to time. Metal watering cans are more durable, but also heavier, and if accidentally dropped on enameled surface baths can damage it.

The most important attribute is the hose connecting the watering can to the mixer (divewater).

Conventional inexpensive hoses in a spiral metal braid with a rubber or plastic tube inside are extremely short-lived. From constant use the braid begins to separate, the sharp edges rub against the pipe, and the hose can be safely thrown away. Another disadvantage of metal braiding is that it has an abrasive effect on the bathtub - acrylic models especially suffer from this.

Such hoses are gradually being replaced by silicone ones, which can have metallized, nylon, foil internal or external reinforcing braid. Such hoses last a very long time, look very attractive, and do not require special care– unlike metal, there are no traces of limescale on them. And if you really want to have a metallized surface, then it is better to choose a “herringbone” braid of a silicone hose - it looks beautiful and will not be demolished.

The length of the hose is very important. The choice should be made based on the actual size of the bathtub and the height of the people who will take water procedures. However, too long hoses will also become an inconvenience. It is considered optimal to be about 1.5 ÷ 1.6 meters.

As a rule, all hoses are completely standardized in terms of threaded connections to both the mixer and the shower head, so replacing them in case of wear is not difficult. By the way, the connection nodes are perhaps the most vulnerable places, as they are constantly subject to torsional load (this is especially true for the hose-watering can assembly). To avoid quick breakdowns, it is worth looking for a modern hose model that has a swivel installed - a plastic sliding bearing that allows the shower head to rotate 360° relative to the connecting fitting without any damage.

The optimal solution is a hose with a sliding bearing at the junction with the shower head.

When choosing, you should pay attention to the convenience of the shower head bracket. On some faucet models it is located directly on the body, on others it is included in the kit for placement on the wall. Often special racks are offered that allow you to install the shower at the desired height, while simultaneously adjusting its angle for comfortable procedures.

Such racks can included in the bath faucet kit or purchased separately.

Read the article and also how not to get confused in their diversity.

Standing somewhat apart are the faucet models that combine both a shower with a flexible hose and a stationary sprinkler.

It’s very convenient - you can always arrange a “tropical downpour” mode for yourself. Such models have an additional switch that redirects the flow either into a flexible hose or into a stationary pipe mounted on the wall.

Mixer material and outer coating

Whatever model was The mixer itself, the material it is made of is of utmost importance. Unfortunately, many people are illegible in this matter, for which they sometimes have to pay by purchasing a new device.

• Silumin - an alloy of aluminum and silicon additives, has only one advantage - low cost. Although it seems to be metal, it is extremely porous and fragile. Some parts made of silumin can be easily broken with the force of your fingers. In addition, silumin is not protected from oxygen corrosion, and its fragility and brittleness are constantly increasing.

At the same time, such mixers are actively and quite successfully “made up” to look like high-quality products, especially by manufacturers of our “great eastern neighbor”. But no matter how beautiful the device may look, refuse to buy a silumin mixer right away - it will not last long.

• Stainless steel products perform well in everyday practice. As a rule, they all have a high-quality chrome plated finish. There is only one drawback - the mixer is too massive.
• The best metals for any plumbing products are copper alloys. Brass or bronze faucets are not subject to corrosion, withstand the most severe temperature and mechanical loads, and do not have any negative chemical effect on water. And according to longevity they have no competitors at all. Naturally, all this will be fair if really high-quality metal is used.
• Ceramic materials can be used to manufacture individual mixer components. It looks very cool, especially if the bathroom is decorated in retro style. However, it should be remembered that ceramics are susceptible to impacts, and should be handled with extreme caution to prevent the surface from chipping or cracking.

• There are mixers in which a large number of The external parts of the case are made of high-strength ABC plastic. As a rule, these are modern models with thermostatic control. In the “classic” versions of mixers, leading manufacturers do not use polymers to make bodies.

So, it is best to purchase a faucet made of brass or bronze.

Hiding the noble color of bronze is simply unreasonable

• Bronze is usually not “hidden” behind any outer covering– its noble color itself is a decoration of the mixer. It can have a mirror polish, imitating even gold, or be matte, covered with patina.
• Brass faucets are usually coated with a decorative coating. It can be chrome-nickel plating - from mirror-shiny to matte, pure silver color or with an interesting tint filling under different kinds metals

• For lovers non-standard approach For bathroom interior design, models with a highly resistant, durable polymer colored enamel coating are offered.

• Bathtubs made from composites that imitate are popular. a natural stone- granite, marble, etc. You can match them with a faucet that has a similar appearance.

Faucets with a composite coating in a “stone look”

In a word, the choice in terms of the external design of mixers is quite wide. But even if you really like a certain model, you shouldn’t buy it recklessly right away - you need to take into account some other recommendations.

Useful tips for choosing a bathroom faucet

• First of all, if given the opportunity, you should purchase products from well-known brands.

Mixers from German companies “Grohe” usually do not raise any questions about the quality of workmanship. , "Hansa", "Hansgrohe", Danish "Damixa", Italian "Mamoli" and "Carlo Frattini Visentin", Russian "Aquatika", French "Herbeau" and " Jacob Delafon", Swedish "Gustavsberg", Finnish "Oras", Spanish "Teka", American "Ideal Standard" and "Supergrif", Swiss " Geberit»

If the name of the manufacturer does not mean anything, then it would be reasonable to give a search query on the Internet, and then carefully read the company’s website, and even better, read real, not far-fetched reviews about the product on the forums.

But if suddenly the name is clearly “masked” as a well-known brand, for example, you come across a mixer “Teko”, “Herbean”, “Mammoli” or “Grehe” - you should immediately say a decisive “no”. And you don’t need to listen to the seller’s assurances that these products are produced under license - no self-respecting manufacturer will allow their name to be distorted. This is an absolute fake no matter how shiny and beautiful it looks.

• Never buy such plumbing fixtures secondhand, from random sellers at the market - with a very high probability you will run into low-quality counterfeit goods.
• In any normal salon they are required to present documents confirming the authenticity of the product, put a mark on the date of sale from which it will begin to count guarantee period. This should not be neglected - a mixer can be quite expensive, and leading manufacturers provide good warranties for several years. He always pays increased attention to issues of quality and his own reputation, so if the device fails, you can count on a replacement based on a complaint or compensation for losses.
• Be sure to check the completeness of the delivery - everything must exactly correspond to the product passport.

Find out and also study the nuances from our new article.

We hope that the information provided in the article provided the reader with sufficient information on choosing a bathroom faucet. Choose from the catalogs a model that suits your tastes, desired functionality, bathroom design style and personal financial capabilities, and go to the salon to make a purchase.

Video: how to choose a bathroom faucet?

RUB 3,680

Basin mixer Lemark Luna LM4107C

Spout height 63 mm. Mixer type - single-jaw. Case material - brass. Type of eyeliner - flexible. Connection size- 1/2". Number of mounting holes - 1. . Purpose - for bath/shower. The spout shape is traditional. With an aerator. Covering - chrome. The shut-off valve is a ceramic cartridge. Spout length 141 mm. Dimensions 168x130x130 mm.