We create our music center from old parts. Do-it-yourself music center from a car radio. Video instruction on how to connect the radio through the power supply

Surely every car enthusiast had the idea to use the car radio, in addition to the car interior, whether in the garage, in the country or in general in the space of his room.
Well, why not? After all, even the most standard car radio, the price of which is incomparable with the price of a music center, having normal output data and not the most famous manufacturer, is able to “rock” home speakers without loss in sound reproduction quality.
And if, in addition, the car radio has a multi-channel output, then by connecting all the provided acoustics to it, as a result, we get an almost full-fledged home theater, assembled by ourselves.

Choosing a car radio

Since by default we will use a device lying around to create a home-made one, then any car radio will suit us.
But this "any" must still have minimum set functions:

• At least two-channel output of 40W each;
• Tuner;
• CD/DVD/MP3 disc player;
• USB - a connector for reading information from a "flash drive".

In addition, you should pay attention to the sound card of the device itself. Some radio tape recorders can even surpass most modern music centers in terms of purity and sound quality.
And although due to the fact that the car radio does not have large and capacitive capacitors in its “arsenal”, due to which it loses in reproducing low frequencies to powerful stationary acoustic systems, it is definitely at its best in reproducing the high-frequency range. Also, a certain advantage of the car radio is the presence in it of a multi-stage equalizer separated by frequencies, while most of stationary music centers are equipped with only standard presets.

Building a home audio system

So, the essence of the issue is clear to us. The car radio with speakers (see) has long been lying nearby on the table and "asks to fight." Now, only we alone do not understand how we can “make friends” of 12-volt equipment with a 220-volt variable network?
I must tell you that this task has several solutions, which are contained in the instructions below on how to connect the car radio from the 220 network.

Method one: connecting through a homemade step-down transformer

This method is the most complex and time consuming. Although the level of modern electronic engineering and allows us to completely abandon it, we, due to the fact that we are considering all the ways on how to connect car radios to 220 V, we will still pay due attention to it.

Preparation

So, before connecting the car radio to the 220 network, we will have to create a step-down transformer up to 12 volts with our own hands.
Why do we need:

• A similar (see photo) transformer that converts the standard mains voltage to a lower one (in our case, 36 volts);
• insulating material;
• Wire of suitable section and length;
• Multimeter/voltmeter;
• A calculator, although the calculations are not at all complicated, you can get by with a piece of paper with a pen.

creation

In order to facilitate the task as much as possible and not to disassemble the transformer winding itself, we use free space magnetic circuit area. We wrap the free area of ​​​​the magnetic circuit insulating material and we wind a piece of wire of our choice of arbitrary length on it.
Let's say we got seven turns.
In order to calculate the number of turns needed to lower the voltage and the length of the wire, we need to do the following procedures:

• We assemble the transformer switching circuit, with the participation of a piece of wire wound on the magnetic wire and measure the output voltage;

• The multimeter gave a value of 2.9 volts. So for one turn secondary winding we have 0.41 volts. From this ratio, we obtain the number of turns required to output 12 volts: divide 12 by 0.41 and get 30 turns;
• We measure the length of the wire spent on the experimental seven turns, we get 126 centimeters. That is, one turn accounts for 18 centimeters (126 divided by 7), it follows that for 30 turns we need 540 centimeters of wire.
• Further, we wind all this “case” on the magnetic circuit, assemble the circuit and check our calculations with a multimeter.

For aesthetics and convenience, we attach an additional block to the bracket and attach conclusions to it.

Do not flatter yourself, in addition to the work done, we need to connect a diode bridge to the resulting device, to rectify the current and remove its ripple (diodes can be taken the most common - D226). Then connect with the load, in series with a choke with a large inductance (you can from tube receiver or from LDS 402 watts) and in parallel two capacitors K50-18 50 volts, 10000 microfarads each.
As a result, the whole scheme should look something like this:

Advice! All of the listed components can be found in a tube TV thrown into a landfill.

The diode bridge can be made from individual diodes ...

... so in the form monolithic construction(assemblies)…

… which is preferable due to its low cost and compactness. The only negative can be considered its complete non-repairability, since when one diode stops standing, you will have to change the entire monolith.

Connection

Next, we assemble the entire circuit, place the resulting structure in a case prepared in advance, connect the car radio with speakers and enjoy music with friends. At the same time, as if by chance, uttering the phrase “home-made music center” in a conversation with them)))

Method two: connecting via a stationary power supply

As we found out earlier, all car radios "eat" direct current and require 12 volts for their needs, no more - no less. Just these output parameters have stationary uninterruptible power supplies and various network adapters.

Selecting a power supply

When choosing this device, you need to pay attention to the output current, it must be at least five amperes. It should be borne in mind that at maximum loads, the car radio can consume up to 10-15 amperes, but I repeat - only at maximum loads!
Of course, there are more on sale. powerful blocks food created specifically for these purposes, but their price is such that all the feasibility of creating a home-made speaker system comes to naught.

Connection

We cut off the standard connector of the car radio, which is designed to connect to the car, and strip the ends of the power wires to connect them to the network adapter or uninterruptible power supply. The speaker wiring can be left in the old connectors and the acoustic circuit can be assembled through standard “connections”.
In general, the connection diagram of the car radio is as follows:

Naturally, instead of a battery, we mean an uninterruptible power supply or a network adapter that produces the necessary stable 12 volts at the output. As you can see from the photo, the connection is nothing complicated: we connect the radio to in the usual way and enjoy nice music.

Method three: connecting via a power supply from a desktop computer

Since the topic of the article has already been fully disclosed and the meaning of the third method is already clear, let's get straight to the point.

Preparing the power supply for work

The advantage of this method is that it is not difficult to find an old and working computer power supply, and the demand for a used device is so low that it can be purchased at any radio market or computer workshop for next to nothing.
Although, in most cases, used power supplies from personal computers are in working condition, before connecting to the car radio, it must be checked, and if it is necessary to prepare for work:

• First, turn on the power supply and check its output voltages;
• Even if the power supply starts up, the output voltages are in order and its fan spins, it’s still worth opening its case, removing all the dust from there and inspecting the PCB contacts for poor soldering;

Attention! Before each opening of the power supply, it must be disconnected from the mains!

• Particular attention should be paid to the electrolytic capacitors of the current output rectifiers. If they have broken serifs or are swollen, they should be replaced.

Attention! High voltage electrolytic capacitors have a residual charge of electric current sufficient to receive a slight, very unpleasant electric shock.

Advice! Before starting the repair of the power supply with your own hands, it is necessary to discharge the high-voltage electrolytic capacitors of the output current rectifier by parallel connection to the capacitor terminals of a 100 or 200 kΩ resistor for a few seconds.

Well, at the end of the preparation of the computer power supply, for greater solidity, it can be painted from an aerosol can with spray paint (available in any car store) to match the color of the interior of the room or the entire speaker system.

Preparation for connecting the power supply type AT

Each computer power supply has several power harnesses with output connectors, where the black wire is negative or common, and the yellow wire is supplied with the 12 volts we need.

Since the AT format computer unit does not have a standby power supply “+5” or otherwise as “Standby” and an output voltage of 3.3 volts, then when it is turned on, its outputs are “+12V”, “+5V”, “-12V ”, “-5V” voltage appears immediately. Therefore, in the presence of an "a-tesh" power supply unit (AT), the right wires“bite off”, and the entire above acoustic circuit is connected to the power wires of the car radio.

Preparation for connecting an ATX power supply

In the case of an ATX power supply, some refinement is required. The fact is that this type of PSU (power supplies) is equipped with a standby current source with a voltage of +5 volts (Standby).
This standby current source works constantly when the PSU is connected to a 220 volt network and puts the entire system into "sleep" mode. Therefore, if you want the provided voltages “+12V”, “-12V”, “+5V”, “-5V” to appear on the output channels immediately after turning on the PSU. "+3.3V", you need to close its connector contacts by installing a jumper on the black and green wires.

Connecting to the car radio power supply

You probably already know that the car radio also has sleep and work modes, and as soon as the driver closes it by turning the ignition key electrical circuit, the radio will automatically switch from "sleep" mode to "active" mode.
It follows from this that if we connect the main wires of the car radio black - minus (Ground) and yellow - plus (Battery), to which the voltage of the car's on-board network is connected, to the corresponding terminals of the power supply, the car radio will not turn on, it will be in "sleep" mode. In order to eliminate this misunderstanding, we will have to find the red wire marked "ACC", which is connected to the ignition switch in the standard circuit, and connect it to the yellow wire of the car radio, after which the car radio will start immediately when voltage is applied to it.

This concludes the instruction on how to connect a car radio from the 220 network with your own hands. In conclusion, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that car radios with a remote control are very convenient for the “home” version.
Agree, in the car, the remote control is still mostly idle, and at home every time getting up and going to the radio to switch the track or to adjust the volume is somehow not very convenient. With the remote control, the process of listening to music will be much easier and more comfortable.

By using suitable tools you can convert your car radio into a home music listening device. You need suitable hardware such as a power supply. And in a few steps, you can turn your car radio into an indoor listening device.

Instructions for creating a music center from a car radio

You need a power supply to create a music center. But it doesn't have to be new. If you have an old computer, unplug it and use it for your project.

1. To get started with your home stereo, locate the green and black wires on the block and place a piece of wire between them to act as a jumper.
2. On the car stereo, twist the red and yellow cables together.
3. Then connect the black ground wire on the stereo to the black wire on the connector.
4. The red and yellow wires of the stereo are connected to the yellow wire of the connector.
5. Then follow the usual instructions to connect stereo to your speakers.

While using a power source to power your car stereo at home is one way, you can do it even if you don't have a box.

1. You can connect the speakers to the radio using the gray and green wires.
2. You may need to use an optional speaker cable.
3. The next step is to connect the yellow and red wires on the stereo and add an extra speaker for stereo sound.
4. Connect the wires with solder or electrical tape to get a quality result.
5. You need a 12V power cord to be able to connect the device to the mains. You can easily purchase it at any hardware store.
6. Cut off the end of the power cord and connect the black wire to the white line around the red and yellow wires stereo.

Wiring diagram

Although most tape recorders have different amounts outputs and inputs, it is not difficult to find a method for connecting them to a 220-volt network when making a home audio system. Standard circuit diagram cable connection looks like this:

To power the system, a regular old PC power supply is used. Before connecting it to the system, you need to check that the device has enough power to get 5 amps.

Required connectors for connection:

ATX type power supplies must be connected via control connectors. They are on the 24 pin comb.

The image shows which wires need to be connected to the car radio.

The back of the device looks like this:

At various kinds radio, the location of the power supply, the number of sound outputs and other parameters may differ. Only do not change color codes cables.

Device testing

To check the music center, you must first download the audio file to a portable storage medium with a USB output. After that, turn on the music center in the voltage network. An indicator should light up to confirm that it is on.

Then insert the flash drive into the correct USB port. If all actions were performed correctly, then the speakers should play sound. If there is no sound, then turn up the volume or check the connection of all contacts.

So, I didn’t do the body completely, I just used part of the table, but made something like a casing with a backing of cardboard and colored tape.

I installed an 80 mm fan from a computer power supply there, bought 2 car switches with bulbs of different colors.

One turns on the power of the fan, and the other turns on the backlight of the color music, which I somehow recently collected.

The fan is connected through a simple transistor voltage regulator, which can be used to control the speed of rotation of the blades - after all, we do not always need all 100 percent of the revolutions. Its diagram is in the figure below:

The regulator is made by a canopy, right on the variable resistor itself. I screwed a piece of aluminum onto the transistor just in case. Although it practically does not heat up.

Why did you use cardboard? It is good because it is perfectly cut and takes any necessary shape, the switches are remarkably steel, cooling is provided.

Power supply - pulse, 12V 4A. Its power is enough to power the entire system.

And all this economy is connected to the network filter.

Total system costs:

Power supply 700 rubles - 12 volts 4 A
- Magintola 900 rubles, along with a power filter casing and all wiring.
- speakers - 2 sets of speakers Mystery MJ103BX ON 800 RUBLES - 1600 rubles with my discount of 1500 rubles.
- two switches with an indication of 12 volts - 45 rubles.
- fan regulator and transistor, adhesive tape, electrical tape and other consumables were already in stock.

In your version, you can use textolite, aluminum or plywood for the body (by placing the radio inside old column). Most importantly, I showed you the very principle of building such devices. The design of a home-made music center has been installed and pleases with its convenience and good work for many days now! Comrade was with you. redmoon.

Discuss the article HOW TO MAKE A MUSIC CENTER

car radio at home, do-it-yourself speakers

The idea of ​​creating a monoblock from a car radio and car acoustics arose because listening to music in a car is noisy, you can enjoy the sound quality only when the engine is off. I decided to remove these musical devices from the car, and when, on occasion, shelves from a chipboard wardrobe came to hand, I decided to make a monoblock for the house, because the music in the car sounded very good and these components should not stand idle in vain.

After reading articles about the creation of speakers (acoustic systems), and first of all, having found out the possibility of powering the radio from the PC power supply, I found out that it would be possible to power it and made a trial connection of the PC power supply, radio with one speaker. Everything is working.

After reading about the design of speakers (columns), I went the easy way - without calculations, but made from what is available.
Speaker type - on-site design in the car (speakers on the rear shelf) - called a screen or shield - open design. The sound of this performance is the highest quality. I chose the type of ZYA (closed box) for execution - it’s easier to do.

The material of the walls is chipboard, MDF. plywood is not allowed, because they are flexible and will resonate. I used chipboard which I found for free. When designing your speakers, consider the more air in the box the better (softer bass) (but better calculated).

The shelf was marked in such a way that the maximum volume remained on the columns. I made a markup, used a jigsaw for sawing, then you can level the edge either with a sandpaper with your hands or a grinder with a petal circle. To connect the walls, it is better to use a furniture euro screw.

Be sure to make the fasteners of the walls solid, do not spare the screws so that the rigidity of the structure is at the proper level, so that with a large sound load on the walls they do not introduce their overtones.
After marking for the screws and drilling holes for them, assemble the entire monoblock structure with all the screws in order to make sure that the fasteners are correctly positioned before the main assembly. If everything is well assembled, proceed to the main assembly of the monoblock. To tighten the screws, I used a 4 mm hex screwdriver, which I sawed off with a grinder from a furniture key (straight section of the key). It is necessary to understand how the load is distributed inside the column from maximum to minimum: front - back - side - top - bottom walls. When assembling, we coat all joints silicone sealant(+gun for tube with sealant). According to the theory of a closed box, sound waves should remain inside the box, and not seep out through the cracks. So I assembled a monoblock with the exception of the bottom wall, through these holes I will insert the rest of the parts.

Screwed the speakers into place. At first I used the screws from the kit for the speakers, but then I began to tighten them with wood screws - they are better in this case.
I have the following arrangement of parts: speakers on the sides, each in a separate column, in the middle at the bottom of the radio, at the top behind the power supply. I sawed with a jigsaw for the first time, so it didn’t matter how it turned out.
The next step is to stiffen the corners. We glue with square or triangular glazing beads on PVA glue (I had something like Yaroslavl PVA_M - I did it well). It is clear that the tree must be dry, even and sanded.

We put the power supply before installing the radio (it is more convenient to screw the mount). Then the tape recorder.

In order for the power supply from the PC to work in our case, we need to start it. We put a jumper on the large connector (green with any black wire), a paper clip will do.

We take 12 V from any yellow wire. ground - any black. It is advisable to check with a multimeter. if you will no longer use this power supply for a PC, then it is better to choose 3 yellow wires and 3 black ones. checking if they are all the same. connect by increasing the cross section of the wire for power. cut the rest of the wires so they don't get in the way. I did not cut it, because perhaps the block will still be used in the PC. Solder all wire connections.

Further, it is advised to fill the volume of the column with a sound-permeable material without touching the diaphragm in order to reduce the sound velocity. waves, reduce the load on the walls. I filled it with synthetic winterizer, but when I checked the sound, I removed it, because the column became bright (a lot of HF and MF, LF became very small). Before laying the synthetic winterizer, I checked it without a bottom wall. Sound is rubbish! the whole monoblock stood on the floor (1 photo).

Then, having collected the bottom wall on the sealant, listening - again there are few low frequencies, better than with a synthetic winterizer, but not like it was in the 1st listening on the floor without a bottom. I will assume that the floor or table serves as the bottom wall with large area+ slots from the bottom play the role of a phase inverter (random). But definitely the sound turned out to be the best without the bottom wall on the floor. Those. after building a monoblock, you need to adjust the sound of the speakers to your desires (with or without a bottom wall).

Outcome. When I finished assembling, I realized how it was really necessary to do it.

1. no large holes are needed in the back wall. the fan of the unit blows from the inside out, so the heat from the radio will be removed. enough at the bottom under the radio 1st and in the middle of 2-4 holes of 30mm (they were there).
2. fasten the power supply slightly inward so that its rearmost point (button) does not protrude beyond the plane of the panel so that you can turn the box.
3. install the radio only after fixing the power supply.
4. use wood screws when fixing the speakers.

Costs: pva glue 2 * 23, spent on 11r, universal sealant 112 + device for it 85, rulers 150, euroscrew 50 pcs-50r, travel costs. the rest is yours or free.
Conclusions. The unit is fully functional, the sound is decent for these components. the box turned out to be heavy (about 30 kg), it is more convenient to carry it together. It is better to make calculated columns with normal speakers, but it is more expensive and more difficult. On the electrical side in this version, everything is simple.
For my speakers better column larger volume. you can make not a monoblock, but 2 large speakers and 1 source with power and appropriate connections for switching.
I will share my impressions after listening. Sincerely, EA

The development of digital electronics is noticeable not only in the rapid obsolescence of computer technology, but also in the rapid obsolescence of automotive electronics.

On the example of car radios, almost all available achievements of progress are built into this equipment, along with an improvement consumer properties their prices are also significantly reduced. The once unaffordable MP3 car radio is a car audio lover's dream, now it costs a little more than 1,000 rubles. This situation leads to the fact that quite efficient unnecessary devices appear on the farm. Somehow by the will of fate was for a long time 150 km from the big city. In inclement weather, I had to while away the time at the TV, which in our age of progress shows only two on-air channels, or rather two zombie channels. In the FM band, the cell phone received only one radio station with a wide repertoire densely mixed with gopstop songs. Here I remembered the old car radio taken out of the car. In view of the availability of free time, I decided to make a stationary homemade radio with the possibility of receiving the radio station "Mayak" in the medium wave range. Moreover, all additional parts in the form of a loudspeaker and a power supply were available, and the loop antenna remained after the manufacture of the detector receiver.

How to make a DIY radio housing

The case decided to be made from pieces - scraps OSB boards. The blanks were cut with an electric jigsaw.

1. The receiver will require six blanks:

- front panel frame for mounting a car radio with a size of 260mm × 95mm;

- front panel for speaker 260mm × 240mm;

– side wall, height 330mm, base 240mm, top part 260mm, two pieces are required;

– top cover 262mm × 260mm;

– bottom cover 230mm × 260mm.

External dimensions of the radio box are as follows: width 275mm, height 330mm, depth 260mm. blanks with front side polished emery skin.

2. The issue of the final finish of the receiver has not yet been resolved, therefore, for freedom of thought, I decided to assemble the case on PVA glue. We start the assembly from the base of the receiver, for this, in the place where the side walls are attached, with the help of self-tapping screws, we fasten two rails with a cross section of 25mm × 25mm with glue.

3. I glued the same bars at the attachment points of the side walls top cover, here I did not use self-tapping screws, the clamping force for gluing was carried out with clamps. Drying time for each adhesive is 24 hours.

4. I glued the side walls to the bottom and the lid. We press the walls to the rails with clamps. Be sure to check the diagonals of the box, the measurements should be the same. If, something is crooked, then it is better to fix everything at this stage.

5. After the gluing of the box dried, I glued the slats along the contour of the fastening of the future back cover, and also glued the slats at the installation sites front panels. I used clamps for fixing.

6. Carefully marked and sawed out on the radio mounting panel a cutout in the center of the upper part 178mm wide and 50mm deep.

7. Drilled a 113mm hole in the center of the loudspeaker panel for the speaker. As a speaker, you can use old serviceable, or other speakers. You can immediately drill the mounting holes. In this design, an unpaired speaker is installed, which remains from the design published.

8. Before installing the panels, we must grind their front part with sandpaper, then it will be more difficult to do this.

9. Glue the panels into the box. Dry all connections completely.

10. Sanded the box from the ends and from the side of the adhesive joints.

11. The box must be thoroughly cleaned of dust.

12. back wall cut out from a piece of ennobled fiberboard with dimensions of 320mm × 270mm. I drilled holes in the wall with a diameter of 10mm. The wall is attached to the body with four self-tapping screws.

13. The body of the receiver can be covered with parquet varnish, puttied and painted or glued with veneer.

Assembling the radio

1. I used a small-sized Chinese switching power supply as a power supply, but any will do power supply with an output of 12 volts and a load of 1.5-2 Amperes. Power supply placed on plastic panel attached to the wall of the box. The car radio power wires are stripped and connected to the power supply terminals.

2. Installed the speaker and the protective mesh panel.

2. I decided to make the antenna built-in. For the experiments, a frame was assembled from improvised materials. The diagonal size of the frame is 200mm, 16 turns of wire in enamel insulation were wound around the frame. By connecting the frame to the receiver and received the Mayak radio station on medium waves at a frequency of 549 kHz. Later, the frame was modified and made from a CD with the mirror layer removed. I want to note that several old car radios were tested, the Pioneer DEH-3700MP device completely refused to work on a CB with a frame and asked for a piece of wire 1-1.5 meters long.

3. I fixed the frame on the side wall of the radio box.

4. I fixed the car radio in the box with a bracket made of four links mounting tape. At one end, the bracket is fastened with a nut to the radio, and at the other end, the bracket is fastened with a screw to the bottom cover of the box.