Knitted goat Vasilisa. Embroidery “Goat”: beautiful patterns and original ideas “Invisible” decrease4. Fold5

knitted goat Vasilisa

knitted goat Vasilisa

Legend:
VP - air loop
sc - single crochet
ss - connecting post
psn - half double crochet
dec - two sc with one top
dv. dec - three sc with one top
inc - two sc from one loop
dv. inc - from one loop three sc
PV - knitting turn

Necessary materials:

Yarn: Samara SPER ANGORA (60% mohair, 40% acrylic - 500m/100g - 40g = goat color
Acrylic - VICTORIA Sper baby 400m/100gr = pantaloons and bustier - pink
Acrylic - VICTORIA Sper baby 400m/100gr = boots and corset - red
Acrylic - 400m/100g = wasp, horns and hooves - gray
Yarn for hair (Crystal 490*2/100g or any other, for example, yarn for felting)
"Weed" = cape
Eyes - ready-made eyes (buttons),
Cilia
Fabric for a skirt and blouse (cambric, silk), lace for pantaloons
Wire for frame
Hook No. 1.25,

knitting needles No. 5 for cape

Vasilisa and her gentleman Filimon

Additional Information

"Invisible" decrease
4.

fold
5.

Description of knitting the goat Vasilisa

Head

7 ch, into the 2nd loop from the hook:
1 rub. = 5 sbn, dv. inc, 4 sc, inc = 14
2 r. = inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc = 20
3 r. = 1 sbn, inc, 4 sbn, (1 sbn, inc)*3 times, 4 sbn, (1 sbn, inc)*2 times = 26
4 rub. = 2 sc, approx. 6 sc. arr., 5 sbn. approx. 6 sc. inc, 3 sc = 30
5 rub. = (4 sc, inc)*6 times = 36
6 rub. = (5 sc, inc)*6 times = 42
7 rub. = 9 sbn, inc, 20 sbn, inc, 11 sbn = 44
8 rub.-17 rub. = 44
18 rub. = 8 sbn, inc, 6 sbn. arr., 13 sbn. dec, 6 sc, dec, 5 sc = 44
19 rub.-21 rub. = 44
22 rub. = 31 sc. behind the front wall 11 sc, 2 sc = 44
23 RUR - 24 RUR = 44
25 rub. = 44 + 1 offset loop
26 rub. = 31 sc. we connect the fold: 11 sc together with the back walls of the 22nd row, 2 sc = 44
27 rub. = 44
28 rub. = 1 sbn, inc, 2 sbn. inc, 18 sc, inc, 2 sc. inc, 17 sc = 48
29 rub. = 16 sbn, inc, 19 sbn, inc, 7 sbn, inc, 3 sbn = 51
30 rub. = 4 sbn, inc, 23 sbn, inc, 13 sbn, inc, 8 sbn = 54
31 rub. = 54
32 rub. = 5 sc. inc, 6 sc, dv. arr, 10 sc, door inc, 6 sc, inc, 23 sc = 60
33 rub.-38 rub. = 60
39 rub. = 50 sc, 3 ch, 3 skip loops (hole for frame neck - head, in the middle at the bottom of the head), 7 sc = 60
40 rub.-44 rub. = 60
45 rub. = 15 sc, 2 ch, 2 skip loops (hole for left horn), 12 sc. 2 ch, 2 skip loops (hole for right horn), 29 sc = 60
46 rub.-47 rub. = 60
48 rub. = (8 sc, dec)*6 times = 54
49 rub. = (7 sc, dec)*6 times = 48
50 rub. = (6 sc, dec)*6 times = 42
51 rub. = (5 sc, dec)*6 times = 36, fill the head
52 rub. = (4 sc, dec)*6 times = 30
53 rub. = (3 sc, dec)*6 times = 24
54 rub. = (2 sc, dec)*6 times = 18, add
55 rub. = (1 sc, dec)*6 times = 12
56 rub. = dec * 6 times = 6, pull, fasten the thread, break.

Ears, 2 parts

1 rub. = 5sc in KA
2 r. = 5 inc = 10
3 r. = (4 sc, inc)*2 times = 12
4 rub. = (3 sc, inc)*3 times = 15
5 rub. = (4 sc, inc)*3 times = 18
6 rub. = 17 sc, inc = 19
7 rub. = 18 sc, inc = 20
8 rub. = 19 sc, inc = 21
9 rub. = 20 sc, inc = 22
10 rub. = 21 sc, inc = 23
11 rub. = 22 sc, inc = 24
12 rub. = (7 sc, inc)*3 times = 27
13 rub. = (8 sc, inc)*3 times = 30
14 rub.-19 rub. = 30
20 rub. = dec, 28 sc = 29
21 rub. = dec, 27 sc = 28
22 rub. = dec. 26 sc = 27
23 rub. = 27
24 rub. = fold in half, knit 13 sc together.

Horns, 2 parts

Chain 12 into a ring
1 rub.-5 rub. = 12 sc
6 rub. = dec, 10 sc = 11
7 rub. = 11
8 rub. = dec, 9 sc = 10
9 rub. = 10+1 offset loop
10 rub. = 10
11 rub. = dec. 8 sc = 9
12 rub. = 9
13 rub. = dec. 7 sc = 8
14 rub. = 8
15 rub. = dec. 6 sc = 7
16 rub. = 7
17 - kill 5 sc = 6
18 rub. = 6
19 - kill 4 sc = 5
20 rub. = dec. 3 sc = 4, tighten, fasten the thread, hide.

Legs and torso

Chain 20 into a ring
1 rub. = 5 rub. = 20 sc
6 rub. = 19 sc. inf = 21
7 rub. = 21
8 rub. = 20 sc, inc = 22
9 rub. = 21 sc, inc = 23
10 rub. = 22 sc, inc = 24
11 rub. = 23 sc, inc = 25
12 rub. = 24 sc, inc = 26
13 rub. = 26
14 rub. = 24 sc, dec = 25+1 offset loop
15 rub. = 10 sbn, inc, 10 sbn. 2 dec = 24
16 rub. = 22 sc, dec = 23 + 1 offset loop
17 rub. = 21 sc, dec = 22
18 rub. = 19 rub. = 22
20 rub. = 21 sc, inc = 23
21 rub. = 23
22 rub. = 10 sc, inc, 11 sc, inc = 25
23 rub. = 25. change the color of the thread to the color of the pantaloons
24 rub. = 12 sc, inc, 12 sc = 26
25 rub. = for back wall- 25 sbn, inc = 27
26 rub. = 30 rub. = 27
31 rub. = 14 sc, dec, 11 sc = 26, break the thread on the 1st leg.
On the 2nd leg
31 rub. = 14 sbn, dec, 6 sbn
Now we connect the legs, so we knit the next stitch into the 9th loop of the first leg:
on the 1st leg e-26 sc, on the 2nd leg - 5 sc before the marker, 10 sc after the marker.
Rearrange the marker, now the beginning of the row is here.

9.

32 rub. = 25 sc, (inc, 2 sc)*4 times, (2 sc, inc)*4 times, 3 sc = 60
33 rub. = 28 sbn, inc, (4 sbn, inc)*2 times, 4 sbn, (inc, 4 sbn)*2 times, inc. 6 sc = 66
34 rub. = 11 sbn, dec, 31 sbn, dec, 20 sbn = 64
35 rub. = 40 rub. = 64
41 rub. = 8 sbn, dec, 7 sbn, dec, 26 sbn, dec, 17 sbn = 61
42 rub. = 61
43 rub. = 12 sbn, dec, 47 sbn = 60
44 rub. = 47 rub. = 60
48 rub. = 31 sbn, (dec, 2 sbn)*3 times, dv. dec, (2 sc, dec)*3 times, 2 sc = 52
49 rub. = 14 sbn, inc, 17 sbn, (dec, 1 sbn)*6 times, dec = 46
50 rub. = 1 sbn, dec, 25 sbn, dec, 16 sbn = 44
51 rub. = twice
first 51 rub. = pink thread, behind the front wall = 44
second 51 rub. = goat color thread, behind the back wall = 44
Next we knit in goat color
52 rub. = 30 sbn, (dec, 2 sbn)*3 times, dec = 40
53 rub. = dec, 9 sb, inc, 9 sb, inc, 9 sb, dec, 7 sb = 40
54 rub. = 57 rub. = 40
58 rub. = -40+4 offset stitches, marker on side
59 rub. = 12 sbn, dec, 19 sbn, inc, 6 sbn = 40
60 rub. = 40
61 rub. = 12 sbn, dec, 19 sbn, inc, 6 sbn = 40
62 rub. = 40
63 rub. = 11 sbn, dec, 19 sbn, inc, 7 sbn = 40
64 rub. = 40
65 rub. = 2 sc, inc, 19 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc, 7 sc = 43
66 rub. = 43
67 rub. = 7 sbn, inc, 11 sbn, inc, 9 sbn, inc, 10 sbn, inc, 2 sbn = 47
68 rub. = 47, change color to pink (bustier)
69 rub. = pink - = 47
70 rub. = 5 sbn, (inc, 1 sbn) * 3 times, inc, 5 sbn. inc, (1 sc, inc)*3 times, 23 sc = 55
the underline should be in the middle of the chest
71 rub. = 5 sbn, (2 hdc, inc. hdc) * 3 times, 2 hdc, dec. sc, 1 sc, dec. sbn, 2 hdc, (approx. hdc, 2 hdc) * 3 times, 23 sbn = 59
72 rub. = 5 sbn, 14 hdc, 3 sbn. 14 hdc, 23 sc = 59+1 offset p.
73 rub. = 5 sc, 6 hdc, inc. hdc, 7 hdc, dv. dec, 7 psn, inc. hdc, 6 hdc, 8 sbn, 12 ss, 3 sbn = 59
74 rub. = 6 sbn, 12 hdc, 1 sbn, dec. sbn, 1 sbn, 12 sbn, 25 sbn = 58
75 rub. = 6 sbn, 12 sbn, 3 sbn, 12 sbn, 25 sbn = 58
76 rub. = 6 sbn, 12 sbn, 3 sbn, 12 sbn, 5 sbn, 20 ss = 58
77 rub. = 1ss, 6 sbn, 12 sbn, 3 sbn, 12 sbn, 24 sbn = 58
78 rub. = 1 sc, 2 ch, 2 skip loops (hole for arm frame), 4 sc, (2 hdc, dec. hdc) * 3 times, dv. ub. sbn, (dec. hdc, 2 hdc) * 3 times, 4 sbn, 2 ch, 2 skip loops (hole for arm frame), 18 sbn = 50
79 rub. = 7 sbn, (dec. hdc, 1 hdc) * 3 times, 2 sbn, (1 hdc, dec. hdc) * 3 times, 23 sbn = 44, change to the color of the goat
80 rub. = goat color - behind the back wall, = 44
81 rub. = 2 sbn, inc, 10 sbn, 2 dec, 10 sbn, inc, 16 sbn = 44
82 rub. = 44
83 rub. = 3 sbn, inc, 22 sbn, inc, 17 sbn = 46
84 rub. = 85 rub. = 46
The body can already be stuffed. The filling I have is synthetic fluff, it is very easily pierced by the wire of the frame.
we form the shoulders, d. decreases - the shoulder line, if the shoulders skew - do it required amount bias loops
86 rub. = 3 sc, double. dec, 9 sbn, dec, 9 sbn, dv. dec, 17 sc = 41
87 rub. = 2 sc, double dec, 17 sc, dv. dec, 16 sc = 37

10.

88 rub. = 1 sc, double dec, 15 sc, dv. dec, 15 sc = 33
89 rub. = dv. dec, 6 sc, dec. 6 sc, double dec, 6 sc, dec, 5 sc = 27
90 rub. = (7 sc, dec)*3 times = 24
91 rub. = 92 rub. = 24
93 rub. = (dec, 4 sc)*4 times = 20
94 rub. = 98 rub. = 20,
add filler.

If desired, we tighten the chest and sew (or knit) lace onto the pantaloons.
You can knit the body of the goat in one color, and knit the panties (or panties) and bustier (or bra) separately and wear them.

11.

Hands, 2 parts

Kopytse
10 ch, into the 2nd loop from the hook:
1 rub. = inc, 7 sbn, dv. inc, 8 sc = 20
2 r. = 20+1 p. offset
3 r. = (double dec, 3 sc, double inc, 3 sc)*2 times = 20
4 rub. = 20+1 p. offset
5 rub. = (double dec, 3 sc, double inc, 3 sc)*2 times = 20
6 rub. = 20
7 rub. = (double dec, 3 sc, double inc, 3 sc)*2 times = 20
8 rub. = 20
9 rub. = (dec, 3 sc)*4 times = 16, change to goat color

Hand
10 rub. = 16 rub. = 16
17 rub. = 7 sbn, inc, 8 sbn = 17
18 rub. = 21 rub. = 17
22 rub. = 14 sbn, 1 hdc, inc. hdc *2 times = 19
23 rub. = approx. hdc*2 times, 1 hdc, 11 sc. 5 hdc = 21
24 rub. = 5 hdc, 2 sc. 7ss, 2 sc, 5 hdc = 21+1 offset stitches
25 rub. = 5 hdc. 11 sc. 1 hd. ub. hdc *2 times = 19
26 rub. = dec. hdc *2 times, 1 hdc, 14 sc = 17
27 rub. = 32 rub. = 17
33 rub. = 11 sc, inc, 5 sc = 18
34 rub. = 37 rub. = 18
38 rub. = 3 sc, inc, 14 sc = 19
39 rub. = 41 rub. = 19, ss, fasten the thread, leave the end for sewing
12.

Claw tightening

Enter - t. 1 - red. in the middle of the palm, row 7
Output - t. 2 - yellow, in the middle back side, 2-3 row
13.

14.

Boots, 2 parts

Heel
1 rub. = 6 sc in KA
2 r. = inc* 6 times = 12
3 r. = (2 sc, inc)*4 times = 16
4 rub. = behind the back wall - 16
5 rub. = 9 rub. = 16, ss, this is the heel height, may vary.

Front of the boot
1 rub. = 6sc in KA
2 r. = inc*6 times = 12
3 r. = (3 inc, 3 sc)*2 times = 18
4 rub. = ((1 sc, inc)*3 times, 3 sc)*2 times = 24
5 rub. = -((2 sbn, inc)*3 times, 3 sbn)*2 times = 30
6 rub. = behind the back wall - 30, cut out the insole to fit the sole
7 rub. = 30
further increases on the heel, decreases on the toe
8 rub. = 6 sbn, inc, 2 sbn, inc, 20 sbn = 32
9 rub. = 7 sbn, inc, 2 sbn, inc, 21 sbn = 34
10 rub. = 7 sbn, inc, 2 sbn, inc, 2 sbn, (dec, 1 sbn)*2 times, 2 sbn, (1 sbn, dec)*2 times, 5 sbn = 30
11 rub. = 20 sc, 5 dec = 25
attach the heel
12 rub. = 7 sbn, 6 sbn together with heel, 7 sbn, dec, 1 sbn. dec = 23
13 rub. = on the front - 7 sc. on the heel - 3 sc. approx. 2 sbn, inc, 3 sbn, on the front - 7 sbn, dv. dec = 27
14 rub. = dec, 9 sc. inc, 2 sc. approx. 9 sc, dec, 1 sc = 27
15 rub. = 27
16 rub. = 25 sc. dec = 26
17 rub. = 6 sc, dec. 11 sc. ub. 5 sc = 24
18 rub. = 24
19 rub. = 12 sc. ub. 10 sc = 23
20 rub. = dec, 21 sc = 22
21 rub. = 24 rub. = 22
25 rub. = 1 sbn, inc, 10 sbn, inc, 9 sbn = 24
26 rub. = 24, ss, fasten the thread, hide
15.

These are the finished boots
16.

Head pulls

Eyes
input - neck, output - t. 1 (blue) 32 r., where door. incoming; input - t. 2 (blue) 36 rows, 18 loops from the marker, output - t. 3 (blue) row 36, 27 loops from the marker; input - t. 4 (blue) row 32, where door. in, output - neck
17.

Nose

18.

Mouth
input - neck, output - t. 1-3 r. down from the beginning of knitting; input - t. 2-3 r. down from the beginning of knitting, the conclusion is the neck. Between t.1 and t.2 5-6 loops
19.

Assembly

Frame
Frame length = (loop in the sole of the boot + height of the goat from the floor to the top of the head + length of the horns) * 2 times.
For hands = hoof loop + shoulder width + two arm lengths.

Let's start assembling
Boot frame see photo
20.

For the heel, you can use a wine cork, cutting off the desired height and making a vertical hole for the wire with an awl or corkscrew.
For the sole - cardboard or plastic.
We fasten the wires coming from the front of the boot and from the heel together with adhesive tape. The heel wire is approximately equal to the height of the boot. We stuff boots.
Next, we insert the wire coming from the boot into the bottom of the leg (where we started knitting the leg), lower the leg 2-3 rows into the boot and sew it on, then: leg, butt, chest, neck, head, horns.
The second wire is the same
21.

We pierce the wire for the arms through the holes for the arms, bend the loops at the ends, put handles on the wires, stuff them, and sew them on. You can make, if desired, a button, cotter pin or thread fastening
22.

I usually design the head first, then finish the assembly.
Head, decoration.
We glue the eyes.
We knit the eyelids (chain of ch required length in 2-3 threads of the main color followed by tinting or “shadow” colors) or embroider.
We glue the eyelashes (Vasilisa has ordinary women’s false eyelashes, you can make eyelashes yourself).
We embroider the nose.
Sew on the ears
23.

24.

Frame - insert the spine into the hole in the neck, bring it out into the holes for the horns, put the horns on the wire, add a little filler, sew on the horns.
Sew on the head.

Any hairstyle you like, Vasilisa has a braid around her head.

25.

Our goat is almost ready!

Cloth

At your discretion. If desired, clothes can be knitted.
Here the blouse and skirt are made of cambric.
Blouse - 2 fabrics cut according to the " bat", shoulder and side seams are sewn, boat neckline, worn over the head. Sleeve length according to your desire.
Skirt - a rectangular piece of fabric sewn with one seam, the length and width of the skirt according to your wishes. The top of the skirt (belt) is stitched with large stitches using strong thread. The skirt is put on the goat, the thread is tightened, and gathers are obtained.
Corset, cape and jacket connected
26.

Corset, hook, red yarn (like boots)
We dial 30 VP
1 rub. = 1 ch, 30 sc = 30, pv
2 r. = 6 rub. = 2 ch, 7 hdc, 16 hdc, 7 hdc = 30, pv
the number of rows may be different depending on the desired width (height) of the corset
We put the corset on the goat, lacing it in front.

27.

Cape, knitting needles, "grass"
Cast on 10 loops.
odd rows - remove the edge, *yarn over, knit 2 together* to the end of the row, knit 1
even rows - purl loops
Knit to the desired length.
You can crochet a cape, stole, or shawl.
We dress our young lady, if desired - earrings, beads, etc.
28.

Jacket, hook, red yarn (like boots)
Cast on 30 ch, knit in straight and reverse rows
1 rub. = 8 rub. = 1 ch, 30 sc
Next we divide into shelves and back
Left shelf

10 rub. = 1 ch, 11 sc = 11
11 rub. = 1 ch, dec, 9 sc = 10
12 rub. = 1 ch, 10 sc = 10
13 rub. = 1 ch, dec, 8 sc = 9
14 rub. = 1 ch, 9 sc = 9
15 rub. = 1 ch, dec, 7 sc = 8
16 rub. = 1 ch, 8 sc = 8
17 rub. = 1 ch, dec, 6 sc = 7
18 rub. = 1 ch, 7 sc = 7
19 rub. = 1 ch, dec, 5 sc = 6
20 rub. = 1 ch, 6 sc = 6
21 rub. = 1 ch, dec, 4 sc = 5
22 rub. = 1 ch, 5 sc = 5
23 rub. = 1 ch, 2 sc, 2 ss, break thread.
We pass 14 loops along the main fabric, fasten the thread to the 15th loop, and knit.

Right shelf
9 rub. = (1 ch, inc)*3 times, 2 sc = 11
10 rub. = 1 ch, 11 sc = 11
11 rub. = 1 ch, 8 sbn, dec, 1 sbn = 10
12 rub. = 1 ch, 10 sc = 10
13 rub. = 1 ch, 7 sbn, dec, 1 sbn = 9
14 rub. = 1 ch, 9 sc = 9
15 rub. = 1 ch, 6 sbn, dec, 1 sbn = 8
16 rub. = 1 ch, 8 sc = 8
17 rub. = 1 ch, 5 sbn, dec, 1 sbn = 7
18 rub. = 1 ch, 7 sc = 7
19 rub. = 1 ch, 4 sbn, dec, 1 sbn = 6
20 rub. = 1 ch, 6 sc = 6
21 rub. = 1 ch, 3 sbn, dec, 1 sbn = 5
22 rub. = 1 ch, 5 sc = 5
23 rub. = 1 ch, 3 ss, 2 sc, break thread

Back
On the skipped 14 loops
9 rub. = 22 rub. = 1 ch, 13 sc
Sew the shoulder seams
29.

Sleeve, 2 parts

Beginning of row - bottom of armhole
1 rub. = 1 ch, (2 sc, dec. sc)*2 times, 2 hdc, dec. hdc, 2 dc, dec. dn, 2dn, dec. hdc, 2 hdc, dec. sc, 2 sc, dec. sbn, 2 sbn = 23, ss, pt
2 r. = 1 ch, 5 sbn, 4 hdc, 5 dc, 4 hdc, 5 sbn = 23, ss, pt
3 r. = 1 ch, 3 sbn, 17 sbn, 3 sbn = 23, ss
From the 4th row we knit in circles
4 rub. = 7 rub. = 2 ch, 23 dc, ss
8 rub. = 2 ch, 1 dc, inc. dn, 21 dn = 24, ss
9 rub. = 2 ch, 2 dc, inc. dn, 21 dn = 25, ss
10 rub. = 2 ch, 2 dc, inc. dn, 22 dn = 26, ss
11 rub. = 2 ch, 26 hdc = 26, ss

Frill

According to the initial chain
1 rub. = 2 ch, 6 dc, 6 inc. s2n, 6 dv. approx. s3n, 6 approx. s2n, 6 sn = 60, PV
2 r. = 2 ch, (inc. dc, 1 dc) * 3 times, (inc. dc, 1 dc) * 5 times, 21 inc, d3n, (d2n, inc. d2n) * 5 times, (1 dc, inc. dc )*3 times = 90
3 r. = 2 ch, 90 hdc
Tie hdc on the front and neck
30.

Happiness and Peace to all of us!

Goats are unpretentious animals for home breeding. They can easily withstand extreme cold and get along well in the same area with birds. Goats can easily live in a furnished attic or entryway. But, if you have such an opportunity, it is better to do it quickly separate room for goats Building a shed with just your own hands is not difficult. Keeping goats this way will be the most correct.

You can quickly make a goat shed with your own hands

What should it look like?

The goat shed must meet the criteria established by breeders and farmers. These animals perfectly adapt to any climate and are not afraid large quantity sun or cold weather. But still, the barn should be dry and bright, because goats should not be in damp conditions.

The key to exceptionally successful and correct keeping of goats in all respects is well-thought-out ventilation and complete dryness. In a warm region, a goat can live even under an ordinary street shed. In a cold and even frosty winter, you can’t do without a highly insulated enclosure. The room for goats can be separate or shared with other pets. Minimum temperature, which should be for normal maintenance, is 8 degrees Celsius.

Remember that the goat and the little goats should have a separate erected stall - you will avoid various conflicts in the pen, and the kids will always have enough food.

A pen can be built quickly with your own hands if you know certain features. Everything can be done in just a couple of days. Building a barn is a fairly easy task, but what should its details be?

Goat shed drawing

Floor of the room

A barn for proper keeping of goats must be made with your own hands with high quality, so as not to create discomfort for the pets. Goats are capricious towards sleeping place. They prefer exclusively dry and slightly elevated places.

If you decide to make a barn with your own hands, you need to build a high-quality floor. When laying the floor, you will need to make a slope so that the liquid drains - this way the animals will be kept correctly. There should be bedding on top that will help the goat avoid even the slightest contact with factors that irritate it. Sawdust, leaves, shavings, and straw can be brought into the pen as bedding.

Stalls

When you make a barn with your own hands, keep in mind that the goats should be kept in a spacious room, since crowded conditions can affect milk yield.

The front erected wall of the stall is made in the form of a not very high door on stable and strong hinges. The height should be approximately a meter. If you want to increase comfort, you can make a manger on this wall with your own hands and give the goats hay so as not to go directly into the stall.

Goat stall layout

Nurseries and feeders

The very keeping of goats also means that you will make a barn with your own hands and a manger with feeders. Animals are quite picky, so they can easily sort through a whole haystack in search of a blade of grass they like. It is recommended to equip the pen with special feeders so as not to waste a lot of feed. In this case, the barn will look much cleaner, and the maintenance will be ideal, since the goats will not trample on their own food.

It is worth placing feeders and nurseries so that you can easily reach them.

Provide a drinking bowl - this is an ordinary bucket that you don’t just put in the pen, but hang it up so that it is easier and more convenient for the goat to drink from there.

Dimensions and diagram of a goat feeder

Manufacturing

All the criteria by which it is necessary to build a pen are clear, then everything is done step by step and quickly. To make a good pen, you should only use quality materials. detailed instructions to prepare the barn it looks like this:

We choose the space for the building itself.
Lay the foundation carefully to ensure the shed is stable and comfortable.
Build windows taking into account the main entrance, several windows only on the south and warm side. If the room is small in size, the window must be made on the side of the main door.
Install durable and strong wood decking and flooring.
The roof can be sloping or gable. The second method is the leader - you can store hay in a small attic. No additional insulation is required on the roof side. It is recommended to cover the shed with tiles or regular slate.
Install a small exhaust pipe that includes dampers. This detail is placed away from the goats’ permanent resting place.
The doors are made with double doors, but in such a way that they can be easily insulated in severe frosts.
Stalls are erected inside, the necessary mangers and feeders underneath are installed to store grain, hay and convenience.

The coming year promises changes for which each of us strives to prepare! The symbol of the goat in 2015 will become the most important attribute of the home, so to attract good luck and success, everyone needs to acquire their own “new idol”. Pretty goat strong sign and does not tolerate competition. This means that the family’s past patrons must disappear (at least for the coming year). Rats, bulls, tigers, bunnies, dragons, snakes and horses can temporarily “live” on shelves in a garage or clean basement.

When choosing gifts for friends or family, give preference traditional version. On the one hand, this may seem banal, but on the other hand, that’s what they are traditions for! The symbol of 2015 does not have to be in the form of a figurine, a calendar or a refrigerator magnet. A pillow, towel or tablecloth with this symbolism will be much more interesting! These can also be napkins, needle cases, various bags (for buttons, seeds) and even phone cases! A important feature the gift will be that it will be made with my own hands! Yes, yes, and it’s as easy as shelling pears!

You can decorate anything with embroidery, and the proposed patterns will help you with this! Our beautiful diagrams And original ideas for embroidery, goats will become an original basis for your New Year's gifts made with your own hands.

Bright New Year's embroidery can originally decorate almost any of your handmade gifts: a pincushion, a napkin, a soft New Year's toy, glasses case, mobile phone or on a mug, keychain. You can also decorate a tablecloth, curtains, or even a creative holiday card with this embroidery.

And such a cute goat will really appeal to lovers of everything unusual and a little funny. A T-shirt with the image of this funny goat can be given to both a child and an adult with a sense of humor. One thing is certain: such a thing will not gather dust on the far shelf of the wardrobe, but can become a talisman for the whole of 2015.

An embroidered image of the Goat, the mascot of 2015, is not only an excellent opportunity to realize your creative ideas, but also to cheer up a loved one. After all, it goes without saying that receiving a gift made with your own hands is much more pleasant than the most expensive store-bought item.

It’s a simple pattern, but the embroidery on it turns out bright and beautiful. Great option for beginners who want to realize their creative ideas by making original gift for the New Year 2015 to your family, friends or colleagues.

Would you like to give a gift to New Year 2015 sunny greetings from summer? Then embroider a mischievous goat with the pattern suggested below. Bright emotions are guaranteed for you and the recipient of the gift!

And also don’t forget about another mistress of the year, who will share this title along with the goat, and make it with your children

It is not difficult to make a machine for milking a goat with your own hands. It, like the one purchased in stores, will help you get a valuable and nutritious product - milk. The device facilitates the process, increases milk yield by 20-25%: animals do not experience discomfort and behave calmly, which reduces product losses. Of course, you can buy a ready-made device. But if you make it yourself, it will save your budget without sacrificing results.

This device facilitates the milking process and increases milk yield by 20-25%.

The device is used in 95% of cases by farmers in situations where goats are in enclosures. The device helps reduce the likelihood that animals will run out or knock over buckets of milk. Device functions:

immobilizing goats(no discomfort);
increasing the access area to the udder.

The quality and speed of work increase, losses are reduced, goats do not experience stress during the milking period, which has a positive effect on the health of the entire herd. It’s not difficult to make goat pens with your own hands; you can find them on the Internet. various schemes and drawings. It is also recommended to contact specialists to avoid errors and increase reliability. The peculiarity of the milking process with such a device is that the goat is on an elevated platform, and it is more convenient for the operator (milkmaid) to work. In addition, the device allows you to attract an animal - a container with mixed feed or treats is installed. Over time, the pets get used to it and climb onto the platform themselves.

Self-assembly

To make the farmer’s work easier, schemes have been developed that allow you to create a machine for convenient milking of a goat, which you can install yourself using the drawings. The manufacturing process is simple and easy to study, the assembled structure is reliable and durable.

Using the diagram, you can create a machine for milking goats that will work stably. All you need is beginner-level woodworking skills.

With minimal carpentry skills, such a machine can be easily made at home.

Required tools and materials:

inch board (it is better to choose timber) - size 50X50;
board 1 m long;
jigsaw

The diagram also takes into account the possibility of installing mechanical devices:

engine (not too powerful);
pump (with low pressure);
milking equipment;
can or other container for collecting fresh milk.

Advice: the design must take into account the dimensions of the enclosure and be comfortable for the animal, so measurements must be taken carefully.

The scheme for creating the machine is simple: despite the many points, the work will not take much time. The only point that requires close attention is the assembly of the elements of the mechanism for fixing the animal’s head.

For convenience, diagrammatic drawings are presented, where:

D – legs (5X10X30 cm, 4 pcs. in total);
C – end (2.5x10x50 cm, 2 pcs. in total);
B - sidewall (2.5X10X120 cm, 2 pieces in total);
J – timber (5X5X50 cm, 2 pieces in total);
A - boards used to create flooring (2.5x18x120 cm, 3 pcs. in total).

Step-by-step machine installation diagram, Figures 1-4: creating legs and flooring.

Installation steps

The 2 legs should be connected to a strong, reliable base of the structure - an end that should pass through their tops (as shown in Figure 1).
Repeat the steps with the remaining 2 legs on the second side of the machine.
Next, you will need to connect the resulting parts to the sidewall, focusing on the upper end (Figures 2 and 3).
The next step is to install and secure the beams (2 pcs.). The distance from the edges should be 40 cm.
Adjust the base angles as needed (they should be 90°).
The next step is to secure the boards intended for flooring (Fig. 4).

Mandatory action - rounding all sharp corners and ribs (necessary to reduce the risk of injury).

The machine elements intended for assembling the stand and holding mechanism are shown in the diagrams:

E – racks (2.5X10X50, 2 pcs. in total);
G – parts (2.5X 10X50 cm, 4 pcs. in total);
F-fixing slats(2.5x10x120 cm, 2 pcs. in total).

Continued installation of the machine, Figures 5-8: attaching the stands to the legs and flooring.

The process of assembling the stand, as well as the holding mechanism, is carried out in several steps.

The corners of the stand are cut off - you need to draw a line from one corner at the top down 10 cm and to the left 5 cm and saw off (the dotted line in Figure 5).
Attach 2 parts to racks 1 and 2 - one of them is level with the upper ends, the second - at a distance of 10 cm from the lower ends. Then fasten the remaining 2 elements on the other side so that they are opposite the parts (Figure 6).
Create a hole at the fixing slats at a distance of half a meter from the bottom so that the animal’s head can pass through.
Additionally, this rail (1 in Figure 6) will need to cut a corner (top 10 cm, left 5 cm).
Next, install the fixing rail 2 in the center of the resulting structure in point 2 between the two parts and secure it - for immobility.
Fixing rail 1 is installed at a certain distance from fixing rail 2 - this creates a moving part that secures the position of the head. The lower part of the element will need to be attached with a bolt by drilling a hole (Figure 7).

The mount for installing the feeder depends on the chosen design. At the end of the work you need:

connect the base to the stand - Bottom part must rest on boards intended for flooring, fastening is done through racks (1 and 2), as well as a fixing rail 2;
attach the corner brackets (Figure 8).

The locking device is chosen as desired - a hook or a fastening cord.

Milking

The design of the machine allows you to securely fix the animal and completely express milk from the udder.

The animal is milked in the morning and in the evening - before and after feeding or walking on pasture. Using the machine involves leading the goat onto a plank platform along a ladder; the rail is fixed by the horns or neck with a pin. As a result, sudden movements are impossible.

The milking machine for goats allows you to express milk completely from the udder. A special feature of the process is that milking is carried out from any side convenient for the specialist.

Device Features

The milking system is vacuum, which provides pulsation. The process uses a light glass. Optimal value vacuum – 38 – 44 kPa. The pulsation rhythm is 70 - 90 pulses/minute. When milking is finished, the animals need to be processed - the udders must be washed. The device also needs sanitary cleaning: Goat milk is fattier than cow milk, which leads to rapid contamination of devices. Care is important for a dairy goat, since abscesses may appear on an untreated udder, bacteria will get into the milk and spoil the entire collected product.

Thus, manufacturing machines according to existing or specially developed drawings is not difficult. It is important to remember: we milk the animal twice a day - in the morning and in the evening. Using devices on a regular basis is effective when the population is more than 2-3 goats. Milk yield increases 2-3 times, regardless of the dairy breed available on the farm. The lactation period is 11 months, during which the indicator remains at the same level, which is beneficial if milk is part of the agricultural business.

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