DIY weed control tools. Garden tool for removing weeds. Combined glander or hoe

Gardeners spend a lot of time and effort fighting it, so it’s worth forking out the money to buy a quality weeding tool. Most often, one or two devices are used, while the rest are used only as needed. In the article you will find a description of the main tools that deserve to take a place in the shed of every summer resident.

Of course, all the most important work on the site is done using forks and shovels, which are traditionally used for cultivating the soil. However, for weeding areas, you will need more compact tools equipped with a relatively short handle.

1. Root remover. Root removers are best suited for removing long taproots from the soil (such as plantain, dandelion, thistle and sorrel). In its classic version, this weapon looks like a two-pronged fork with flat, wide teeth and a long gap between them. Another one, also very convenient model, consists of a long handle with a V-shaped blade attached to one end. Keep in mind: a root remover will help you remove from the soil most root, but unable to pull it out completely.
2. Crevice cleaner. This narrow tool with an “L”-shaped blade is used to remove weeds that have appeared in the cracks between the tiles used to pave garden paths, as well as those that have grown in other hard-to-reach places. Of course, the most ordinary garden knife is also quite suitable for this task, although you are unlikely to be able to deftly pull out the roots of weeds from the soil with its help.
3. Garden fork. A garden fork is a weeding tool that should be in the arsenal of every summer resident. It is simply irreplaceable in the fight against weeds with a developed root system (for example, blackberries, wild raspberries or buttercups). And if you choose a modification with teeth bent at 45 degrees, then you can also shallowly loosen the soil surface, simultaneously pulling out weeds that are loosely sitting in the ground. Important: when choosing a garden fork, pay attention to how comfortable it is for you to hold the tool in your hands.
4. Hoes. Hoes (or hoes) come in three main varieties: Dutch, straight, and hand. The blade of the Dutch hoe is slightly inclined towards the long handle. She is best at cutting the most upper layer soil, thereby cutting through the rhizomes of weeds. In a straight hoe with wide and high shoulders, the blade is attached to the handle at a right or almost right angle. This design allows you to destroy weeds using chopping movements. A hand hoe is, in fact, a smaller copy of a straight hoe and is designed for cultivating the soil around particularly delicate areas. cultivated plants.
5. Gardening gloves and mat. These two simple items make the tedious task of pulling weeds more comfortable. You can either sit or kneel on the mat. You can also find special knee pads on sale, great alternative mat when there is a need to move along paths and aisles. And rubberized gloves will not only reliably protect your hands from calluses, but will also ensure strong contact with the handle of the tool.
6. . I would like to note that not all summer residents consider this tool to be the most suitable for weeding work, but I like it primarily for its versatility. Most importantly, do not forget to sharpen the blade more often. Although the last piece of advice, of course, applies to all of the above tools. You can learn in detail about how to properly use a flat cutter to remove weeds from.

With the beginning spring season Garden owners have a lot of worries. The time has come to prepare the place for. Then, to obtain rich harvests, it is necessary to properly plant seedlings or seeds, and then carefully care for the plants during the summer.

For all these processes, certain tools are used, which can be purchased in specialized stores or made independently. Some of them are very unusual, and are the fruits of the creative approach of experienced gardeners to difficult work on the land. This publication will discuss how you can make non-standard, convenient and effective garden tools with your own hands to greatly facilitate the cultivation of the land.

As you know, almost all gardening tools are made of metal, so the work will require a number of tools and, of course, the ability to use them. If there are no problems with this issue, all that remains is to prepare them for work. For those who are just starting their journey in self-production metal products, it makes sense to present a list of the minimum required:

• Usually, every business owner of a private house has this device, since there is always a lot of work on the site for which it is needed.
• Before starting welding metal parts It is necessary to clean their edges, and after the work, remove slag residues. For these processes, hard steel brushes are used, which can be hand-held or in the form of attachments to a drill or grinder.
• A slag hammer will be needed to remove slag deposits from the seam.
• Chisels, stamps and a hammer are used for branding seams and cutting out defective areas, as well as removing frozen metal splashes.
• Templates, ruler, square, scriber, tape measure, as well as other measuring instruments are used in assembly operations, when preparing parts of a future structure for welding.
• A grinder with metal wheels will be needed for cutting parts. It is also needed for final finishing - cleaning seams, sharpening cutting planes.
• Personal protection kit. This welding mask, gloves and a welder's suit, instead of which clothing made of dense natural fabric can be used.
• Metal table or trestles for welding work.

Welding operations require some experience

Purchasing a machine does not make its owner a welder. You have to get your hands dirty, starting with the simplest seams. And you have to be prepared for the fact that things won’t work out right away; it requires patience, diligence, and perseverance. – read in a special publication on our portal.

If these tools are available and you have enough experience in welding, it’s time to choose a product for manufacturing. You can find or develop a drawing of a future device yourself, to the best of your abilities.

Some useful ideas This is exactly what will be suggested below. You can take them as a basis and, if desired, improve them according to your own understanding.

Non-standard garden tools available for self-production

Today, manufacturers of gardening equipment, taking into account hard labour for soil cultivation, have developed and offer the consumer a considerable number of different devices that not only dig up, but also loosen the soil, while simultaneously removing weeds. Such tools can significantly reduce the time for preparing beds and protect your back from excessive stress.

Some of these “small mechanization” tools can be made independently, saving a decent amount.

Miracle shovel

This tool has appeared in commercials of garden tool manufacturers relatively recently. And at the same time, many craftsmen have been using such a device for many years, having made it themselves. And, I must say, only praising its effectiveness and convenience.

They call this invention a “miracle pitchfork” and a ripper-cultivator. But no matter what name is assigned to it, the main thing is that it greatly facilitates the gardener’s work.

There are several varieties of “miracle shovels”, differing from each other in their design. But they all work on the same principle. Therefore, you can choose the option that seems simpler to implement and convenient to use.

The first version of the “miracle shovel”

This is the most popular version of this tool. Him in finished form can be found in specialty stores or at gardening fairs. Before you start making such a model yourself, you should carefully consider its design and understand how it works.

The shovel consists of the following parts:

1. Working forks.
2. Front stop.
3. Back stop.
4. Front support forks.
5. Tuleyka for installation and fastening of the handle.
6. Cutting.
7. Lever mechanism.

The “Operation Manual” of this tool can be represented as follows:

• The ripper shovel is taken by the handle and placed on the soil on the front stop.
• Next, the working forks are stuck into the soil so that the back stop touches the ground.

• Then the handle of the shovel lowers down with a little force applied to itself. Thanks to this, the working forks will begin to move upward, lifting layers of soil.

• The forks located on the front stop, passing between the teeth of the working forks, will loosen the ground. In this case, the soil layer will not have to be turned over, so the fertile layer will not be disturbed.
• After this, the shovel is moved to the next area, and the operations are repeated.

This version of the shovel is designed for digging up soil on maximum depth, equal to the length of the working forks. Accordingly, the width of the processed strip will be equal to the width of the working forks. In the example shown, the length of the working fork teeth is 250 mm and their width is 430 mm.

This figure shows the “miracle shovel” in disassembled form, and the arrows also show the process of its assembly. This visual instructions will help you assemble any version of the “miracle shovel” design.

In order to make such a tool, you need to prepare the following material:

• To make working forks you will need:

— a piece of steel angle 20×20×4 mm or profile pipe 20×20 mm, length 460 mm;

- line segment round pipe½ inch, length 220÷250 mm - for making a tulika;

— two metal plates measuring 100×40×4 mm - for securing the torso to the frame of the front stop;

- six pieces of round steel (Ø 8 mm) or, which would be better, a square rod with a cross-section of 8 × 8 mm, length 240 mm.

• To make a stop frame with front forks, you will need to prepare the following parts:

— for support so-called skis, you will need two pieces of round pipe with an outer diameter of 10 mm and a length of 710 mm;

— the crossbar on which the working forks will be attached will require a piece of profile pipe with a length of 460 mm and a cross-sectional size of 20×20 mm;

— the second cross member, on which the teeth of the front forks will be welded, is made of a pipe with a diameter of 12 mm;

— a pipe 170 mm long and 12 mm in diameter to connect the frame with the supporting heel of the structure;

- for the supporting part you will need a corner with dimensions of 15 × 15 × 4 × 330 mm;

- six pieces of round rod 200 mm long, similar to those used for working forks.

- reliable wooden handle.

Work on the manufacture of a miracle shovel is carried out in the following order:

Illustration
	The first step is to mark and cut the parts for the shovel design using a grinder. It is best to prepare the elements of the working forks first, and then the support frame. Next, all parts will be prepared according to the drawing during installation work.
	First of all, the support frame and front forks are manufactured. In order to make forks, pipes are marked for holes, which should be located in increments of 65 mm. Blind holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled along the intended centers. Then pieces of reinforcement are installed in them, which will become the teeth of the front forks.
	Next, the “skis”, that is, the side parts of the support frame, are prepared for welding. One edge of these runners should have a slight bend for better sliding on the ground. In order for the pipe to maintain its given shape when using the tool, an incision is made on it, 100 mm away from one of the edges, thanks to which the pipe is given the necessary curvature. Then the cut is boiled, which will give rigidity to the parts. You can do without a cut by shaping the “skis” on a pipe bender.
	The next step is to make marks on the profile pipe for welding the “ears” - these are two metal plates measuring 300x20x4 mm. Holes are drilled in them for the hinge connection of the support frame with the working forks. Instead of plates, which are quite difficult to weld, you can use steel angles with holes of the required size.
	The distance between the “ears” should be 100 mm.
	The next step is to weld a back stop, consisting of a round pipe with a cross member made of a metal corner, to the profile pipe, on its other side, exactly in the middle at an angle of 120 degrees.
	Now that all the parts of the support frame are ready, they are assembled into a common structure by welding. It is very important to set the cross members of the frame at right angles to it, otherwise the shovel will not function well enough.
	Next, a tulle for the working forks is made; it must be welded exactly in the middle of the corner on which the teeth will be attached. The pipe can be narrowed on one side, giving it an oval shape, as the master did in this case, or the diameter can be left the same along the entire length. Stepping back 50 mm from the top edge of the torso, places are marked for fixing metal plates, in which holes are pre-drilled to create a hinge connection with the “ears” welded on the support frame. The teeth are welded to the angle later, after the fastening has been adjusted.
	When the vest is ready, it is tried on the supporting part of the shovel, temporarily screwed onto the bolts. In order for the lever mechanism to function without jamming, it is necessary to select bolts that are threaded only at the end.
	If everything works as it should, all that remains is to try on and weld the teeth to the corner of the working forks. They are placed in such a way that they are located between the teeth of the front forks and do not come into contact with them during work. The distance between the teeth of the working part of the shovel should also be 65 mm.
	But before welding the teeth onto the angle, they need to be prepared, since they must have a slight bend and pointed ends. There are two ways to sharpen the ends of square rods - by forging or by careful trimming and stripping. For forging, the metal will have to be heated red-hot, and then the ends must be formed on an anvil. the required form using a hammer. This is quite a skillful job; besides, not everyone has a special furnace for heating metal. Therefore, all that remains is to sharpen the ends of the teeth mechanically, that is, carefully cut off part of the metal on one side of the square, and then clean the cut points. You can contact a turner who will perform the work on a lathe.
	You can make a smooth bend at the ends of the teeth using a pipe bender, using one template. If this device is not available, then this work will have to be done using a vice and a hammer. However, it must be remembered that the bend on all teeth must be the same, so it may be better to carry out this process after welding the teeth onto the angle. The forks can also be bent with a hammer, placing their teeth on the template.
	As a result of the operations performed, a convenient, relatively light design is obtained. Moreover, the “miracle shovel” will only need to be brought to the place of work and taken away to the place of work upon completion. The rest of the time you won’t have to lift it, since it will move along the soil with the help of “skis” runners.

The manufacturer of this “miracle shovel” honestly admits that, having made it in the fall, he tried to dig up wet soil, and nothing worked. It turned out that the earth got stuck between the teeth, and the runners moved heavily along the wet ground.

Therefore, given its errors, you should not experiment with the tool immediately after the snow melts. This tool digs up dry soil perfectly, even if it is already “indecently” overgrown with grass. The working forks pick up and pull out the weeds, and the front forks free them from the soil. But in order to remove the grass from the dug up bed, you still have to bend down.

Prices for miracle shovels

Miracle shovel

Second option

In addition to this model, there are other models of “miracle shovels”. For example, for older people who like to tinker in the garden, there is an option developed by the Altai craftsman V. Popenko.

This design has a comfortable high U-shaped handle, which allows you to work without bending over. And if necessary, you can lean on such a handle by sticking the teeth into the ground.

The disadvantage of this version of the “miracle shovel” is the lack of good loosening of the soil. Therefore, you additionally have to break up the clods and grind them using a rake.

Third option

Another design that can rather be called an improved fork for digging up soil. But it will also make the work easier - due to the special support pedal installed on the handle. When the forks are driven into the soil, the pedal helps to apply the correct force of the leg. And after the pedal rests on the ground, it becomes a fulcrum for applying force through a lever-handle pivotally connected to it. This makes it much easier to lift the soil being dug up.

A similar version of the tool can be purchased ready-made. But it’s easy to do otherwise - purchase high-quality forks, and then improve them by adding a support pedal, pivotally connected to a clamp attached to the handle.

The illustration above not only clearly shows the design of the pedal, but also gives the dimensions of all the parts needed to make the instrument.

Cultivator "Tornado"

The Tornado cultivator has become very popular among gardeners. It is actively advertised in television and online stores. Indeed, the device is quite convenient and relatively compact. But not every Russian summer resident can afford to purchase this instrument. That’s why it’s worth trying your hand at making it.

The “Tornado” design is simpler than the “miracle shovel” and works on the principle of a corkscrew mounted on a convenient stand with a horizontal handle-bar.

If you decide to make a cultivator yourself, in order to simplify the task, you can use industrially produced forks as a basis, which have a very affordable price. The main thing is to choose a high-quality version when purchasing this tool. Today there are many products on the market, the metal of which will not withstand alteration manipulations - steel does not stand up to any criticism.

“Tornado” can be made immediately to suit your height, or you can make the handle adjustable. There can be many options here. For example, a collet clamp with a threaded coupling (but this is quite difficult to do on your own). Or a series of holes in the retractable part of the rack - this option is shown in the illustration below.

The “crab”, that is, the working part of the factory tool, is made by forging, so the teeth are resistant to bending. And if it is possible to manufacture this part of the cultivator using the same technology, then it is better to choose this option. To do this, you will need to heat the workpieces and use a hammer to give them the desired shape and direction. It must be said right away that not every master can do this process.

As you can see in the drawings and photos, the “crab” teeth have arched bends, are attached to the base in one direction, and in the finished product they form an oval or round internal space.

The teeth are welded so that they form a kind of square around the stand. That is, each of them is fixed not pointwise, but along the entire fold line of the part, which forms one side of the square. To begin with, you can weld a square steel plate 5÷6 mm thick to the lower end of the post pipe, and then weld the teeth to the sides of this square - it seems easier this way. Thanks to the continuous penetration of the teeth, the “crab” can withstand high loads during tool operation.

The “crab” teeth are narrowed, making them easy to drive into the soil and not deformed. But there is no special need to sharpen them - they will cope with the task anyway. The height of the “crab” can be from 180 to 200 mm. Accordingly, loosening of the soil occurs to the same depth.

“Tornado” is often called a root remover, because when digging and loosening the soil, weeds are simultaneously removed from it along with their root system.

The principle of operation of the cultivator is to install the “crab” perpendicularly to the soil surface, then rotate the tool 60 degrees while simultaneously pressing down. Therefore, an important point is the shape and length of the handle, since it should work as a convenient and effective lever.

Prices for the Tornado cultivator

Other tools for tillage Tornado

Models available with in different forms handles, so even when making your own, you can choose best option. So, the handle is made straight with a slight bend toward itself, 750 mm long. Or, as already mentioned and shown above in the drawing, you can use the handlebar from an old bicycle as a handle.

In a word, skilled craftsman I am quite capable of making this tool as convenient as possible for myself.

Fokina flat cutter

Another device that solves several problems is a flat cutter, invented by V.V. Fokin.

This simple tool can do the following:

• Effective removal of weeds from beds. Thanks to its compact size and ergonomic shape, this tool can easily pass between crop plants without causing damage to them.
• Loosening the beds can be done at different depths, since not only the side, but also the front part of the tool is working.
• Hilling up plants is also possible with this small tool.
• Forming beds and maintaining their shape throughout the season, and much more.

Find out about available options arrangement, from our new article on our portal.

To make a flat cutter, you will need a metal strip 3 mm thick, and all other required dimensional parameters are presented in the drawing. The edges of the plate must be well processed, cleared of irregularities and burrs. And in the upper part, drill two or three holes to secure the attachment to the handle. Then, the plate will need to be bent properly. In order for the metal to bend better, it must be heated, for example, using a blowtorch.

To give the metal strip the required shape, several successive bends are made. The order in which they are performed is shown in the illustration below.

After the metal has cooled, the edges of the working area of ​​the flat cutter must be properly sharpened on both sides.

After this, the flat cutter can be mounted on a wooden handle, the material for which can be purchased quite inexpensively at a hardware store. The block must be well planed, chamfered, cleared of burrs, and sanded with sandpaper. After this, holes are drilled to secure the tool itself, if the connection was planned to be screw-type. Many owners limit themselves to fixing the flat cutter to the handle with self-tapping screws.

The tool is very light in weight, so it is perfect for gardening for people of any age.

Prices for Fokina flat cutter

Fokina flat cutter

Using a flat cutter is also easy. To do this, the sharpened side of the plate is inserted into the ground to a depth of 40 mm and installed parallel to the surface. Then, with little effort, they begin to loosen or trim the root system of weeds.

At correct production and operation, the plate of the flat cutter, sharpened on both sides, is capable of self-sharpening. If the tool does become dull, you can periodically sharpen it with a grinder or file.

Devices for planting potatoes

For relax planting work craftsmen invented the most popular root vegetable special devices, so-called planters and markers. In addition to them, mechanized landing devices are also manufactured, but they are more suitable for large areas. Manual planters are suitable for any size garden and will greatly simplify and speed up the planting process.

The simplest marker device for quickly planting potatoes

Markers are intended for creating depressions in dug up soil for throwing potatoes into them. They can be single, double or triple.

The presence of two or three conical heads for creating holes not only speeds up the work, but also allows you to maintain the evenness of the planting rows. So, to plant a sufficiently large area of ​​the garden, the joint actions of only two people will be required. One forms the holes with a marker, and the second throws into them potato tubers and covers it with earth on top. The depressions themselves turn out to be small and neat, so you can fill them up by simply pushing the soil with your foot. Thus, there is no need to work with a shovel, digging and then filling wide furrows. As a result, the landing process is not accompanied by fatigue or even local back injury.

The device itself has a very simple design, which can easily be made at home. To do this, you will need a frame with a comfortable handle onto which conical markers are welded.

You can use parts of the back of an old one as a handle. metal bed or a pipe with a diameter of 15 mm, placing plastic hand grips on it.

For the lower horizontal crossbar, to which the cones will be attached by welding, it is suitable profile pipe, for example, 10x20 mm with a wall thickness of 2 mm.

The cones are welded onto the crossbar at a distance of 450 mm from each other. On the protruding edge of the crossbar with the same distance from the nearest marker, you can simply weld a reinforcement rod - it acts only as a guide in maintaining the evenness of the row relative to the intended line or already planted rows.

A more complex version of the planter

Another, more difficult to manufacture version of the planter involves simultaneously digging a hole and planting a tuber.

How to make this design will be discussed further in the instruction table:

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	To make this model of planter, you will need a piece of pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a length of 150÷200 mm. It is necessary to immediately mark the holes on both sides of the pipe. Their centers should be located exactly opposite each other. Two holes will be drilled along them.
	To make drilling the pipe easier, it is placed on a convenient stand. In this case, a piece of rail is used as it. It perfectly serves as not only a stand, but also an anvil. Before you start drilling, the holes are marked using a core, which will also make drilling in a semicircular surface easier. The holes are made at a distance of 10÷12 mm from the edge of the pipe and should have a diameter of 8÷10 mm, for bolts of the same size.
	To make the conical split part of the planter, you will need a small sheet of metal 1.5 mm thick. On the sheet, markings are made of two triangles with a cut off top. The size of one part is 190÷200 mm in height, the base of the triangle is 160 mm and the width of the upper cut is 30 mm. The second part has the same height, but its base should be 180 mm long and its cut should be 20 mm. The outlined parts must be carefully cut out using a grinder.
	The result is two triangles with a cut off top, from which it will be necessary to make a split cone. One side of this assembly will be stationary, and the other will be able to move in a hinged mount. To make the stationary part, a smaller part is used.
	To give the parts a semicircular shape, they must be bent. The work is best done on an anvil, but if there is none, a piece of rail again comes to the rescue. Giving the required shape is carried out with an ordinary hammer, which is used to knock out one or the other side of the part.
	While giving the parts the required bend, they are periodically fitted to the pipe.
	The part must be installed on the edge of the pipe and at the same time, its edges must be located at right angles to the cut of the pipe - this will result in a cone half converging towards the center. In order to achieve this installation of the part, you will have to trim the edges at the bottom of it. To do this, holding the part in the required position, areas for trimming are outlined.
	The part is cut along the marking lines using a grinder.
	This is the position the stationary part of the planter cone should be in, since the second, movable half should close with it as tightly as possible.
	Just like the first part of the cone, the second, movable half of it is made from the prepared plate. Then it is tried on and adjusted.
	However, more precise adjustments can be made only after the fixed part of the cone is attached to the pipe. Therefore, it is welded to the base - the pipe.
	The illustration clearly shows that the angles of the moving side of the cone fit onto the pipe. It is these that need to be gotten rid of, otherwise they will interfere with the opening of the planter.
	Before removing them, it is necessary to mark and then cut off the excess parts using a grinder. If the fixed side of the product is installed and welded onto the pipe wall, then the moving part should go around it, slightly facing it from the outside, since it will open.
	As a result of the work done, it should turn out approximately as shown in this illustration.
	The next step is to install the hinge assembly, with the help of which the moving part of the planter will open and close. To do this, you will need to prepare two plates - “ears”, made of metal 2.5 ÷ 3 mm thick. In these parts, a hole of the same diameter is drilled as in the holes made earlier in the walls of the pipe.
	To screw the “ears” to the pipe, bolts 8÷10 mm in diameter and 10÷15 mm in length are used. It is better to sharpen their heads immediately so that they protrude as little as possible from the surface of the pipe. The bolts are inserted from the inside of the pipe, pass through it and a hole drilled in the “eye,” and are tightened on top of it with washers and nuts.
	The “ears” will have to be bent a little, giving the mm shape of the walls of the opening part of the cone, since they will be welded exactly on them.
	Now the upper side of the “ears” can be secured with welding points to the walls of the movable part of the cone. When securing them, you may have to adjust the closure of the two halves.
	Next comes the manufacturing and welding of the planter handles. This will require a ½ inch diameter pipe and the length should be comfortable to work with. One edge of the pipe is cut at an angle, since it will be attached to the planter body. You can also choose the tilt yourself, but in this case the position of the handle relative to the body is at an angle of approximately 20 degrees.
	The second handle is welded in the middle of the opening side of the cone in its upper part. When you press this handle, it will be attracted to the pipe and open the cone. Therefore, it is placed at an angle of 35–40 degrees.
	If, when testing the planter, the handle welded to the pipe turns out to be not quite comfortable, its position can be adjusted.
	To do this, a cut is made on its inner side, along which the pipe is bent at an angle to its welded part and pulled closer to the planter body. Then the handle is boiled along the fold.
	The product is now being tested again. In this case, the technician discovered that the planter opened too wide, so it was necessary to include a limit bolt in the design. It will limit the opening width of the cone, so that the planted tuber or cup of seeds will be covered with soil on its own when the planter is pulled out of the ground.
	To do this, a nut is welded to the handle fixed on the movable side of the cone, into which the limiting bolt is screwed.
	Thus, when the handles are brought together, the bolt in the desired position will rest against the body pipe, preventing the planter cone from opening completely. By screwing this limiter in and out, you can adjust the width of the hole at the planting depth.
	A plate is welded to the back side of the pipe - a pedal, which is necessary to deepen the planter into the ground by transmitting the force of the leg. Since the pedal will bear a fairly high load, the plate must be strengthened by welding a jib to it from below - a piece of reinforcement, the second end of which is welded to the planter body.

This planter design is suitable not only for planting potatoes, but also for other plants that are planted in the form of bushes, seeds or bulbs. There are other options for similar devices, but they all work on the same principle.

Devices for manual harvesting of root crops

There are not only devices for planting potatoes, but also “mechanisms” for convenient and quick harvesting. Thus, using a manual digger, labor productivity can be almost doubled. This is due to the fact that, unlike a conventional shovel, the device grabs the soil not from one, but from both sides at once, easily bringing the tubers to the surface.

The digger has a not too complicated design, which can be assembled independently. In order to make such a tool, you will need to purchase a pair of ordinary forks. In addition to them, to form the handles you will need two pieces of pipe with a diameter of 27 mm, a wall thickness of 2 mm and a length of 720÷950 mm. And further - metal plate 5 mm thick, 50 mm wide and 330 mm long for the manufacture of a crossbar.

1. Fork teeth.
2. Crossbar.
3. “Ears” welded to the forks.
4. Bolt M10.
5. Potato digger handles.

The production of the tool is carried out in the following order:

• Wooden cuttings are extracted from the pitchforks.
• Under the crowns, in the middle part of the forks, two “ears” with a diameter of 11÷12 mm are welded at a distance of 55 mm. So that the crossbar fits freely between them.
• WITH bottom side crossbars, tubes with a diameter of 10.5 mm are welded along its short edges. A hinge bolt with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 70 mm will pass through them and the “ears” attached to the forks.
• Next, the tool handles are made. The ends of the pipes intended for them must be bent so that they are comfortable to hold in your hands. And then it is recommended to put pieces of hose on the bent ends. This will prevent your hands from slipping while working.
• And finally, the prepared handles, after adjusting their configuration, are welded into the fork crowns.

That's it, the design is ready for work. The digging forks are moved to the open position and placed above the potato bush. Next, stepping on the crossbar, drive the forks into the ground. After this, the handles are moved apart, that is, the forks are brought closer to each other, lifting the captured soil with all its contents upward. In this case, the teeth engage root system and bush tubers. The digger, along with the captured crop, is raised to the surface, the loose soil crumbles, leaving the potatoes clean. In the process of digging up potatoes with such a homemade digger, the tubers are minimally damaged, and the soil does not shift.

It is not recommended to dig up potatoes using a digger (as well as a regular shovel) if the soil is very moist. The cleaning process in such conditions will be significantly complicated by the excessive weight and inconvenience of the tool due to sticking soil.

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As can be seen from what has been said, if the owner wishes and has the tools, it is quite possible to make convenient equipment for gardening, planting and harvesting in a home workshop. This saves quite a lot of money. And especially if the master’s “stash” contains many of the materials necessary for the work.

Examples shown of diversity homemade remedies"small mechanization" gardening work is certainly not limited. If desired, you can find other useful devices, and maybe even come up with some kind of improvement yourself. We will be glad if anyone can share their experience on the pages of our portal.

In conclusion, an interesting video about another useful tool- cultivator. The fire will become a great assistant during the period of regular weeding of beds from weeds.

Video: Homemade manual cultivator for quick and effective weeding

Hello, dear blog readers. Summer is a busy time for summer residents. Watering plants, fertilizing, pest and disease control are required constantly, but these works are not comparable in difficulty and time consumption to removing weeds. Apply various ways combat them, but the most reliable one, which has a long-term effect, is mechanical. In order for the work not to be too tiring and to bring results, you need a reliable garden weed removal tool.

There is still a debate about whether it is necessary to weed the beds. Some assure and prove by their experience that best harvest obtained on unweeded beds. Others claim that after weeding, you can immediately notice how the vegetables grow. Whose side is the truth on?

Crops and shoots of greens and vegetables will quickly be drowned out by more powerful weeds. Weeding is a labor-intensive process; it is especially difficult to uproot plantain, clover, wheatgrass, and dandelion. The smallest particles of roots left in the ground cause a new plant to reproduce.

Therefore, many gardeners do not weed weeds, tearing them out of the ground by the roots, but simply cut them off. This is done constantly so that the height does not exceed 5 cm and, of course, so that they do not bloom and form seeds.

You can cut weeds above the ground with a scythe or trimmer. Mown weeds grow back quickly, so the operation must be repeated often. If you do not remove weeds, but leave them in the rows in the garden bed, the resulting layer of mulch will slow down the growth of weeds.

If the area is heavily overgrown with weeds with strong roots, use the following method. First trim the area with a trimmer, then go through it with a hoe. Finish the area with a flat cutter.

As you can see, it is impossible to definitively answer the question of whether to weed or not to weed. It all depends on the type of weed and their age. Weed removal should be approached individually in each case, choosing the right technology and a set of tools.

How to weed correctly

To make weeding easier, follow these proven recommendations:

1. Don't put off weed control. When they are young and not yet strong, you can remove them without applying special effort. If you wait for the weeds to flower and produce seeds, next year you will have more work: there will be even more of them.
2. In heavily overgrown areas, the fight against them should begin in the fall. When digging, use a pitchfork and do not turn over the layers of earth. Winter frosts destroy the root system of weeds.
3. Perennial weeds require a special approach. You should not pull them out of the ground by the roots: numerous fragments remain, on which growth points awaken, and the weed becomes denser. It is necessary to cut them below the growing point or mow down the part of the plant above the ground. In this case, the weed will not begin to branch, as is usually the case, but the growth of the cut stem will resume.
4. Start weeding the area even before the sown seeds emerge. useful plants. The problem is not to damage crops that have not yet sprouted. Sow them strictly in rows, mark the crops with pegs. Weeds begin to grow a little faster than cultivated plants. Do not wait for them to appear, but go through the weeding field between the marked rows, destroying the weed sprouts underground.

Weeding tool requirements

The right set of equipment will make the gardener’s work easier. To work on garden plot They use weeders, various hoes, and flat cutters. When choosing a tool, pay attention to the handle; it should be of sufficient length so that the worker does not bend over.

A tool whose handle can be easily grasped by the hand is convenient for use. What matters here is the thickness and the material from which it is made. The handle of the tool should fit comfortably in the person’s hand.

Wooden handles must be well sanded and free from burrs and knots, which will lead to calluses on the hands. The wood for handles is chosen from soft species, it is light in weight. Handles made of oak and beech are strong, but very heavy.

Working surface the tool should be at an angle that provides the greatest efficiency during operation and requires the least effort. It’s good when the design of a garden tool allows for changing the angle of the working tool. When buying a tool, be sure to hold it in your hands, try on the length of the handle, how comfortable it lies in your hand, check the angle of inclination of the working surface. Choose a tool whose angle of inclination can be changed.

When you make working tools for weeding with your own hands, the required angle of inclination can be set immediately by trying the tool on for yourself. You can make a simple modification that will allow you to adjust your inventory.

Homemade devices

From deteriorated garden tools and other available materials easy to do simple devices, which will facilitate weed control:

1. Weeder. It is easily made from a board 25-30 cm long and 8 cm wide. Treat the wood with a plane, round the corners lengthwise, and sand. Make sure that the instrument fits comfortably in your hand. In order not to bend over when working, you can rigidly attach a comfortable handle. Hammer some nails into the board. The weeder is useful for removing weeds that have not yet sprouted.
2. The ripper will be made from an old garden fork. The teeth are cut to 10 cm in length, straightened and sharpened. Insert a long handle so you can work without bending over.
3. A device for digging up weeds with roots can be made from a spade. The canvas is cut from the top on both sides, tapering downwards. This tool is convenient for cutting the rhizomes of bushes.
4. A hoe is necessary after each watering and rain to loosen the soil and at the same time cut down weeds. A lightweight hoe is useful for working in wet soil. For this purpose in work plane cut a rectangular hole. The earth will not stick, but will pass through it.
5. The hand cultivator is made of durable sheet metal. Cut 4 strips 15 cm long, 3 cm wide. They are bent at right angles and welded to the bar. A handle is attached to the reverse side and the working part is sharpened. This lightweight cultivator is used for weeding and loosening the soil, while simultaneously removing weeds.

Purchased tools

A gardener spends a lot of time and effort on removing weeds. It is important to have a set of quality weeding tools. Let's get acquainted with some of the most commonly used industrial devices:

1. A root remover is used to pull out long taproots, like those of sorrel, dandelion, and plantain. Classic version The device is a two-pronged fork. She has flat, wide teeth and a gap between them. Another version of the root remover has a V-shaped blade attached to a long handle. The tool will help remove most of the root, but will not pull it out completely.
2. A garden fork is indispensable for removing weeds that have a developed root system: raspberries, buttercups. A modification with teeth bent at 45° allows you to loosen the soil shallowly and remove weeds that are not firmly seated in the ground.
3. A hoe is a hybrid of a pick and a shovel. It is convenient to remove weeds, loosen rows, hill up, and work in hard-to-reach places. The working part is made of high-quality metal; the shape can be rectangular, triangular, trapezoidal. Handles are plastic or wooden.
4. The combined hoe consists of two tools: a glander and a rake. The working part has a steel blade at one end and several teeth at the other. This tool is convenient to work between closely growing plants, while simultaneously removing and collecting weeds.
5. The Fokina flat cutter is convenient to use for removing weeds, digging 2-3 cm into the ground. They work like a scythe, pulling along the surface underground.

Gardena tools

In 1977, the German-Swedish company Gardena received a patent for the unique Gardena Combisystem technology. Among all the garden tools offered, the system is extremely competitive. The combisystem allows you to use Garden devices with one handle, which is selected taking into account individual characteristics buyer.

As you can see, there are many tools and devices for removing weeds. Not all are presented in the article. Many craftsmen make their own tools; the industry also offers various gardening tools. It's not so much about what set of tools you have, but how competently you use them.

I wish you good luck in the hard work of a gardener. Share the link to the article with your colleagues and friends.

Goodbye, see you again.

Gardeners and gardeners know very well how tedious it is to fight weeds on the site. You cannot achieve a lasting effect by weeding them out with your own hands. The remnants of the roots quickly produce new shoots, and the recently removed weed again begins to rampage in the fertile soil. In such a situation, it comes to the rescue garden tools for removing weeds, which pulls out weeds along with the roots without damaging the surrounding soil. There are several types of weeding tools that are worth considering.

Its second name is sapa. This is the most common tool in a gardener’s arsenal. In addition to the fact that the hoe allows you to quickly weed the beds, it also loosens the soil, hills up and breaks up clods of earth. The working surface of the sapa has 3 shapes. It happens:

• rectangular;
• triangular;
• trapezoidal.

According to gardeners and gardeners, the most convenient to use is a trapezoidal hoe. It will help pull out even the most powerful weeds, such as burdock, along with the roots.

When choosing this tool for weeding, you need to look at what metal the working part is made of and how comfortable the equipment fits in your hand. The length of the handle should not be too short or, on the contrary, too long.

Weed rake

A weed rake is a special tool that can be used to remove weeds with very long and deep roots. The working part of the device is made of steel with long teeth that can penetrate well into the soil and thereby pull out roots. Then you just need to pull the rake out of the ground, and the weed will remain between the teeth.

Using a rake makes it very easy to keep your lawn tidy. Even a child can easily use them. There is nothing difficult in using the tool. The working part must be made of high-quality metal, otherwise it will quickly deform, bending under pressure during use.

Cultivator-root remover

With the help of this device for removing weeds with roots, you can easily clear your area of ​​weeds. It is convenient to use such a manual cultivator also in the presence of low, highly dense bushes that are prone to constant germination after removing the above-ground part. It can also cope with strong taproots.

The shape of the tool is well thought out, and therefore, when using it, it is very easy to pull out the weed. You can weed even such difficult areas as areas around trees.

V-shaped root remover

A device is used to extract weeds with a highly developed root system. Other equipment is not always capable of performing such a complex task. The only drawback is that the work takes a lot of time, since each weed must be removed separately. At the same time, all actions are easy to carry out, and you can cope with them even without the proper experience and dexterity.

If weeding the garden is needed in a small area, then a fork is perfect option. The curved shape of the tool, when pressed, helps to pull out the root of the plant with maximum force, so it can be easily removed. The device is suitable for plants with branched roots. At the same time as weeding, this garden tool also loosens the soil. The compact size of the fork and its efficiency have made this device for weeding beds especially in demand.

Fokina flat cutter

A tool for weeding beds, which is capable of efficiently and easily removing all small weeds. It penetrates well into the soil to a depth of 5 cm and efficiently pulls out all the weeds. Its use helps avoid tedious manual weeding of the garden. Stretch the working part of the flat cutter in the ground in the same way as a scythe and then use your hands to collect all the weeds pulled out in this way. Despite the simplicity of the device, it proved to be highly effective.

Homemade weed remover

To make a tool for weeding a garden with your own hands, you need to take a strong, unnecessary shovel and, by cutting off the metal on the sides, narrow the working blade. The edges are sharpened. The root remover obtained in this way penetrates perfectly into the soil and completely extracts even taproots.

Using different equipment to combat weeds, you will be able to restore order to your site much faster than with manual weeding. Also, the devices will help to completely remove weeds, without leaving their roots, which will soon sprout new shoots. All this indicates the need to acquire a weeding tool.

Working on a plot of land takes a lot of time and effort. To make their lives easier, summer residents use various instruments, which simplify many tasks on the ground. You can make a device for removing all weeds with roots yourself or buy a ready-made tool. All of them are quite easy to use and help make your work easier. Let's talk about the most common ones.

Its second name is sapa. It's something between a shovel and a pickaxe. Sapa is the main tool of gardeners - the most beloved, most widespread and universal. Using a hoe, they loosen the row spacing, hill up potato rows, clear virgin areas of weeds, and break up large lumps of earth. The hoe will help plant seedlings and plant various seeds. The working part of the hoe must be made of high-quality steel. This part is made in the shape of a triangle, rectangle or trapezoid (the latter is most convenient to use).

The handle for the hoe should be comfortable in height and thickness and made of wood.

Sapa (hoe) combined

This weed removal device consists of two tools - a glander and a rake. It looks like a rectangular blade made of steel. One side has a sharp edge (sometimes blunt), the other side has several teeth. The tool must be placed on a wooden holder of a convenient length. Using this tool, you can successfully simultaneously remove and collect weeds between rows of plants located close to each other. In addition, it can be used to clear and level the ground before planting. It will help make furrows, hill up plants, and loosen the soil.

Weed rake

This device helps to carefully pull out a weed plant with a long root from the ground using sharp steel teeth. The teeth stick deep into the ground, grasping the root. This can be done without much effort. Removing the root comes down to several movements:

• insert the tool into the ground where the weed grows;
• we capture it;
• pull it out;
• We remove the weed into a garbage container.

The procedure is clear, targeted and very effective. At the same time, cleanliness is maintained. This tool is convenient to use in flower beds and lawns to destroy weeds with deep roots (dandelions).

Cultivator-root remover

This garden puller will help get rid of the long, rod-shaped roots found in plantain, sorrel, and dandelion. In addition, with its help you can get rid of the roots of old thickened bushes, which can be equated to weeds. The tool looks like a two-pronged fork with flat, wide teeth and a gap between them.

The special arrangement and shape of the root remover teeth helps to do this job quickly and easily. In addition, the device helps to process the tree trunk circle fruit trees without harming the roots. The cultivator is easy to handle: it is easy to assemble and operate. The instructions for use will tell you how to assemble it.

V-shaped root remover

This is another option for a root remover. It has a V-shaped blade mounted on a long handle. It helps to easily get rid of weeds with well-branched fibrous roots. This happens quite simply. You use the V-shaped part of the tool to dig up the plant at the very base and remove it from the ground. Long taproots cannot be completely removed, but the bulk of the root will be pulled out. Typically, the root remover is made of high-quality steel.

Fork

Your weed control, anywhere, will not be complete without this tool. The tool looks like a curved metal nozzle, which significantly increases the strength of the handle. And this, in turn, allows you to easily cope with weeds that have deep and well-developed roots. Forks with teeth bent at an angle of 45 degrees can do shallow loosening, simultaneously removing weeds that are loosely sitting in the ground.

It should be added that the tool is easy to use, highly reliable, and does not take up much space. In addition, it is easy to use on small pieces of land and where weeds are difficult to reach.

Fokina flat cutter

This device is convenient to use against weeds small sizes. The flat cutter can be buried 2-3 cm into the ground. With its help, you can avoid the tedious plucking of small weeds. When working, it is pulled underground like a scythe, parallel to its surface.

You can make a tool for removing weeds yourself; for this you can use old, unusable equipment, as well as other available and easily accessible materials. Easy-to-use devices will greatly facilitate the fight against weeds.

Weeder

It can be made from a board about 30 cm long and up to 10 cm wide. The board should be processed with a plane, the corners should be rounded and sanded. Then you need to hammer several nails into the board. Determine the quantity yourself. These will be the teeth of the weeder. The thickness of the handle should be made so that it is comfortable to hold in your hands, and its length allows you not to bend over. The handle must be secured firmly.

The weeder is good to use to destroy weeds that have not yet risen.

Ripper

It can be made from old pitchforks. The teeth should be cut, leaving a length of 10 cm, straightened and sharpened. Then you need to insert a long handle so that you can work comfortably without bending over.

Hoe

It will always come in handy: both after rain and after watering. It is used to loosen the soil while cutting weeds. To work with wet soil, a lightweight hoe is more convenient. To do this, you need to cut a rectangular hole in the plane of the old hoe. The soil will pass through the hole, which means it will stick less to the working plane.

Hand cultivator

It is made from durable sheet metal. To make it, cut out 4 strips 15 cm long and 3 cm wide, as well as a base bar (any size). Then bend them at a right angle and weld them to the bar. The holder should be secured on the reverse side. The metal working part of the cultivator must be sharpened. You will get a lightweight cultivator that can be used to loosen the soil and remove weeds.

Root remover

A root weed remover can be made from a spade. Its canvas needs to be cut on both sides, starting from the top, and narrowed towards the bottom. This tool is very convenient for deep cutting the roots of bushes.

Success in the fight against weeds can only be achieved by applying comprehensive measures to destroy them. Special equipment can be of great help with this. Each device fulfills its purpose, so they should be selected individually, in accordance with the circumstances that have developed in your garden.