How to make your own spoon cutter from scrap materials. Additional required tool. Main types of incisors

Cutting tool

The quality of the tool largely depends on the grade of steel, proper hardening and sharpening.

In order not to be upset about a bad tool in the future, I advise you to pay attention and time to it from the very beginning. From work good tool you will enjoy: the chips will be easily separated, leaving a clean, burr-free cut. If you have the opportunity to check the quality, try pressing the file along the end of the blade. It leaves a mark on mild steel. If the file slips and does not cut in, the tool is not bad.

Practice has shown which grades of steel should be preferred when making tools. This is 65G spring steel, which is used in the production of a variety of springs and automobile springs. It is good not only for cranberries. Bearing steel ШХ15 holds edge sharpening well; it is used in semicircular chisels and cranberries. Steels 9ХС, 9ХФ are ductile and suitable for wide applications. They also use high-speed steels P18, P9, etc. I note, however, no matter what grade of steel you use, if it is produced incorrectly heat treatment, i.e. hardening and tempering, the tool may not be of the best quality. This requires conditions and experience. If you don't have one, contact a specialist or look at heat treatment reference books.

It is impossible to determine the grade of steel at home; this can only be done in a laboratory. I would like to give this advice: do not throw away files that have become unusable due to prolonged use, broken, worn out, but made of sufficiently strong steel and suitable in shape, files, hacksaw blades of different widths, taps, drills, scalpels, straight razors, springs, bearings. For small work soft wood Even the knitting needles of an old or broken umbrella and screwdrivers will come in handy. You can give all these things a second life, but in a new quality. I know many carvers who skillfully use scraps to create their tools.

In the store, purchase a set of needle files, which come with a universal handle with a collet clamp. It is convenient to use and compact to store. Use needle files to make cutting tools for small crafts. It is easy to make flat and oval chisels by shortening the file blade by 20–30 mm in order to reduce deflection when resting on the material. A miniature joint and knife will also not be superfluous. If you anneal a flat needle file on fire gas stove, it will be amenable to reforging, and from it you can make a cranberry spatula, a miniature spoon cutter.

I advise you to use linoleum burrs when working with soft wood. Although these tools become dull quickly due to the poor quality of the steel, they have necessary forms cutting blade and are suitable for contour carving and cutting out ornaments. You can also use those that have fallen into disrepair surgical instruments. They are made from suitable steel and are shaped close to the carver's requirements.

So, let's look at the types of cutting tools. It includes knives, jambs, flat and semicircular chisels, scratches, corners, cranberries, spoon cutters, and planes.

Knives

When in a conversation with colleagues you are interested in what kind of tool they use, first of all you ask about knives. The knife is like a natural extension of the carver's hand, an obedient executor of his plans. When I cut, there is a feeling that the arm, hand and blade are an inseparable whole, controlled by my consciousness.

I've seen craftsmen have a lot of different knives - everyone gets used to their own. There may be several of them - each carving technique has its own, but there is always a favorite, universal, and most convenient to use.

Photo 7. Knives

So I've been cutting for many years most their works homemade knife with a blade 4 cm long. It cuts excess weight material, creates a plastic form, cuts out large and small parts, applies ornaments, leaves a mark when final processing surfaces. Of course, I can’t do without other tools, but a considerable percentage of the work falls on this humble worker. It has been successfully tested in my work and with many of my students. Everyone who uses it confirms its versatility and convenience.

To make such a knife you will need a straight razor. A hacksaw blade will also come in handy suitable sizes or scalpel. The knife making process is simple. Let's consider it using the example of using a scalpel (Fig. 3.3, a).

Adjust the length of the handle according to your hand so that the back of your head rests in the center of your palm while working, and your thumb and index fingers clasp the handle at the beginning of the blade. I don't cover the handle of the knife with anything. Of course, it gets dirty quickly, but it slips less in your hand and absorbs the sweat of your palm better when you work a lot. The feeling of touching an unvarnished handle is more pleasant, it is not distracting, and in long-term and serious work, every little thing matters.

Rice. 3.3. Knives: A– universal from a scalpel; b– Bogorodsky; V– blade shapes; G– ways to hold a utility knife

Once the handle is ready, start sharpening the cutting edge. Grind both planes of the blade on an emery wheel while rotating the shaft onto the tool. When grinding near the edge of the blade, the sound will be higher. Learn to recognize it. In the future, when sharpening, this will help to accurately determine whether you are touching the edge of the rotating wheel. When lowering the canvas into water to cool, hold it there a little, allowing it to cool. By the time of sharpening, there should be a drop of water on the edge of the blade; when it boils and evaporates during the sharpening process, lower the blade into the water again. If you still fail to protect the blade from burning, grind off this area and sharpen again. After successful sharpening, make finishing touches on a diamond or fine-grained corundum wheel with the shaft rotating from the tool, then proceed to straightening on a felt or leather wheel lubricated with GOI paste.

Photo 8, 9. Two techniques for holding a knife

To check the degree of sharpness, make several cuts on wooden block soft rock along and across the grain. Carefully examine the cut surfaces. They should be clean, without grooves or burrs, with a slight shine. A sharp tool cuts in without any extra effort, leaving a pleasant feeling of overcoming. Sharpening and straightening of a knife can also be done on whetstones or whetstones. This method is acceptable, although it requires a lot of time, which is not always enough.

Having sharpened a knife, you must understand that in your hands you have not only a reliable assistant, but also a dangerous weapon. Beginners, forgetting about this, often injure their hands, especially the left. The blade enters the wood under significant force; in inexperienced hands it breaks off, hitting the hand or fingers. The cuts can be significant.

The utility knife is held in two ways (Fig. 3.3, d). In the first case - with the blade away from you. In this case, the edge of the knife at the moment of cutting is supported by the thumb of the left hand, which simultaneously holds the workpiece. The blade, moving forward, follows a radius. The second method is reminiscent of cutting potato peels, as housewives do - hold the knife with the blade towards you. You should learn to cut so that the blade, after cutting the chips, passes above the thumb right hand, otherwise, if it falls off the material, it may injure your hand. If you are left-handed, all actions, accordingly, change in this and all subsequent technologies for handling the tool.

To protect against injuries and calluses, sew or glue finger pads from leather and put them on your thumbs while working.

Remember: the goal of your first woodworking is not so much to create an artistic craft, but to acquire skills in handling a cutting tool and understanding wood as a material (its layering, varied hardness and other qualities).

For safety and to prevent dulling of the cutting edge during storage, make a rubber or leather safety case that you put on the blade after finishing work - it will be convenient to take the knife with you for work outside the workshop.

Leaving the principle of making a knife the same, the blade can be made in various shapes (Fig. 3.3, c).

If you are accustomed to a different design and shape of the cutting part of the knife, then I advise you to use the Bogorodsk knife with caution: it has a long cutting part of the blade, and if you are not used to it, you can injure your hand.

Over time, the carver accumulates knives of various shapes and sizes: shoemaker type, as well as with a long and narrow blade or with a long handle resting on the shoulder - for cutting plywood and thin boards. All of them are useful in certain processing processes - each in its place is sometimes simply irreplaceable.

Blunt knives

This is a type of flat chisel with a beveled cutting edge. Shoe jamb knives with a blade beveled at an angle of 30° are available for sale. They can be used, but the cutter often needs jambs with an angle of 50-70°. The chamfer is sharpened on both sides and on one side. Double-sided jambs are mainly required when carving flat reliefs.

In Fig. 3.4, and shows a small joint, convenient for working on initial stages training for cutting out simple geometric and contour patterns. It is made from a hacksaw blade 14–16 mm wide and 0.8 mm thick. Easily enters the wood, spreading the layer slightly, which allows you to avoid chipping small parts.

The small joint should be held in your fist while working (Fig. 3.4, c). Place your thumb on the back of the handle - this makes it easier to press and insert the blade into the mass of material. When cutting towards yourself, place the nose away from you and vice versa.

For larger elements geometric ornament the blade needs to be made wider, the size of the handle needs to be increased according to your hand. A metal blade with a width of 15–25 mm and a thickness of 2 mm is useful; the output of the blade from the handle is up to 100 mm, the chamfers are sharpened to 6–8 mm.

A jamb with one-sided sharpening (Fig. 3.4, b) is useful for removing material, cutting out ornaments, and finishing three-dimensional surfaces. It can be used instead of a flat chisel: thanks to the angled cutting edge, it is easier to cut off excess. It’s easy to make it from a flat chisel, grinding off cutting edge at an angle of 60°. The width may vary, but 15–25 mm is most suitable.

You need to hold a large joint with two hands: the right one holds the handle, pressing the center of the palm into the back of the head and creating force in the direction of the intended cut, the left one covers the canvas from above, clasping it with all fingers.

Rice. 3.4. Blunt knives: A– double-sided ( 1 – heel; 2 - spout; 3 – shank; 4 – handle handle; 5 – back of the head); b– one-sided; V– ways to hold them: 6 – double-sided; 7 – one-sided

The thumb is also on top, touching the beginning of the handle. It is not advisable to keep it at the bottom, since it will touch the workpiece at the time of cutting. The left hand, holding the tool, restrains the forward movement of the jamb so as not to cut off excess. At the same time, if necessary, she bottom the hands at the wrist (I conventionally call them the “heel”), resting against the product itself, holds it.

If the workpiece is small in size and the cut is made from the edge, then the jamb is held with the left hand from below. To do this, place the canvas on left palm and cover it with your thumb. With the index finger of your left hand, simultaneously hold the tool at the moment of cutting and press the part against the stop. The method of holding flat and semicircular chisels is the same. This is convenient when processing products that are not secured with a clamp or other method - it is easy to change their position, the left hand is out of danger, since it does not fall under cutting tool(this is an important point and should be remembered constantly).

Over time, it is advisable for the carver to learn to work with his right and left hands. There are places where it is inconvenient to cut with the right, and that’s when the ability to operate with the same skill with the left comes in handy.

Flat chisels

Chisels with a flat, unbeveled cutting edge will always be needed in your work. They will be needed in a variety of widths - from 2 to 30–40 mm - depending on the work being performed and the size of the material. In small products, chisels with a narrow blade are used; the mass of wood is cut using the force of the hand. For the manufacture of large products, generalized parts, as well as cutting large masses, stock up on wider chisels. When working with them, you need both strong hand pressure on the chisel and a blow with a mallet. To make homemade chisels, use anything that is made of good steel and close in shape.

I offer one of the standard options for a flat chisel. Look carefully at its shape and dimensions in Fig. 3.5.

Rice. 3.5. Flat chisels: A– without sides ( 1 – cutting edge; 2 – chamfer; 3 - canvas; 4 – shank; 5 – emphasis; 6 – neck; 7 – heel; 8 – handle handle; 9 – back of the head; 10 – rubber nozzle); b– with side; V– sharpening methods ( 11–13 – correct: 11 – double chamfer; 12 – single chamfer, 13 – double-sided chamfer; 14 - incorrect)

Chisels industrial production Sometimes they are produced with plastic handles, but practice has shown that this is inconvenient - under the blow of a mallet, such handles produce unnecessary noise, do not absorb the sweat of the hands, and if the mallet is wooden, then it itself wears out faster. A more practical solution is to make the handle wooden without varnish.

Photo 10. Flat chisels. In the center there is a rubber tip from crutches, it protects the handle from being hit by a mallet, reducing noise, which is desirable in a home environment

Flat and other types of chisels produced by the industry are made with cone-shaped shanks, which is impractical. During operation, repeated blows with a mallet can cause a chisel with a conical shank to jump out of its handle. For homemade chisels, I recommend grinding the shank down to square section. Several shallow cuts are made on its ribs. The handle is given an octagonal shape by chamfering the corners of the block using a chisel and file. Don’t forget to make the handle narrower towards the stop and round the back of the head. Now pour glue into the hole or epoxy resin and firmly push the handle onto the shank until it stops.

When working with wide chisels, the force of the hand is often not enough for the chisel to enter the material. In such cases, carvers use a mallet, making single, double blows on the handle or a series of blows. This quickly wears out the back of the handle. And the sound when hitting the handle with a mallet is loud. To prevent this from happening, purchase several rubber tips for crutches at the pharmacy. They are sold in two or three sizes. Choose one whose diameter matches the thickness of the neck of the handle. For more commonly used chisels, put on a personal tip (Fig. 3.5, 10), and for rarely used ones, have two or three replacement ones, put on only when necessary. You can also purchase mallets made of thick rubber or stuff the end of a wooden mallet with leather.

As many years of practice have shown, a handle equipped with a rubber tip, in addition to allowing you to get rid of excess noise and preserve the back of your head, has another important quality - under single and serial blows, the cutting edge enters the mass of wood not sharply and hard (dry), but softly and to a shallow depth. A series of blows merges into one smooth movement, such as when using a jackhammer. The left hand, holding the chisel, regulates its direction, moving along the volume of the product, easily bypassing bulges and depressions, preventing excess from being cut off.

In wood carving, the principle “better under than over” is of no small importance. I hope that the rubber tip carving technique will help develop a feel for the material and allow for more precise processing.

When the handle is made, proceed to sharpening. With flat chisels, as with jambs, pay attention to the correct chamfering. They can be of various shapes.

In Fig. 3.5,11 shows a double chamfer. Its first, slightly concave section is made on the oval edge of the grinding wheel. Its length, if steel good quality, 2.5–3 times the thickness of the canvas. For weak metal, make the chamfers shorter, i.e., in two thicknesses. This will require more force to cut the material, but the edge will last longer. Sharpen the second section in the next step on the flat side of a sharpening wheel, a disk with a diamond mandrel or on fine-grained whetstones, and finish on a felt wheel or whetstone. A double chamfer is made more often on chisels used for precise work, without the impact of a mallet, which is performed mainly by hand.

Another option is a single chamfer, forming a flat surface from the heel to the cutting edge (Fig. 3.5, 12). Grind it down on the sides of the grinding wheel and finish it, as in the previous version. A single bevel can be slightly shorter and stiffer. This gives it greater reliability in cutting hard, transverse layers and knots that occur when you have to work with a blow with a mallet.

Sometimes a beginner, due to inexperience, fills up the chamfer (Fig. 3.5, 14), as a result of which it turns out without a heel (which is a stop when the cutter comes out of the wood mass). When inserting such a chisel into the workpiece, you have to raise the handle too high. This entails the need to overcome the excessive resistance of the material, with the danger of chipping off the excess.

After sharpening, try making several cuts on the block along and across the grain. A well-sharpened cutting edge easily enters the wood, leaving a pleasant, shiny, scratch-free cut.

Semicircular chisels

There is a great variety of semicircular chisels, varying in width, radius of curvature of the cross section of the blade and the shape of the cutting edge. Such chisels have a wide range of applications - from rough removal of a mass of material from large volumes to the creation of plastic images, cutting out ornaments, reliefs, small details and final finishing of the surface texture. In all cases, they easily remove chips, forming cuts on the wood surface of the same radius as the bend of the blade. To avoid scoring, they are inserted into the material so that one or both edges remain above the plane of the workpiece.

The cutting edge is usually sharpened from the outside. Depending on the purpose and for convenience, the thread can be straight, curved, concave and elongated. The latter is used in turning and staple carving.

Rice. 3.6. Semicircular chisel: A– design; b– width and radii of cutting edges ( 1 – sloping; 2 – average; 3 – cool); V– edge shapes ( 4 – straight; 5 – radius; 6 – concave; 7 – elongated)

There is another option for sharpening a semicircular chisel, when the cutting edge is chamfered from the side of the inner plane. Such a tool is necessary for expanding and cleaning bottlenecks in internal volumes, where it is not possible to hold a chisel at an angle to the plane. For example, a narrow neck of a vessel, a narrow opening in volume.

Photo 11. Radius chisels

You can buy it in stores a large number of various semicircular chisels. But, if possible, do not neglect the services of a competent craftsman or give yourself pleasure - try making them yourself.

It is not difficult to make a good chisel from a metal tap - you need to patiently remove the excess thickness from the end of the blade with sandpaper and sharpen the chamfer. Such a tool does not dull for a long time, even on dense wood it gives a clean cut.

Any tool should only be made of good steel, especially for a beginner, as this is the key to success, a guarantee that the amateur carver will not be disappointed in his hobby.

Photo 12. The first way to hold an oval chisel

Photo 13. The second way to hold an oval chisel

Photo 14. The third way to hold an oval chisel is with both hands

Due to the fact that the blade of semicircular chisels is curved, when sharpening them you need to carefully ensure that the chamfer is sharpened evenly over the entire surface. To do this, touching the rotating abrasive wheel with the edge of the tool, tilt the latter from left to right and in the reverse order, without stopping along the entire edge, so that bald spots do not form. Burrs with inside remove surfaces using sandpaper on a stick of the required radius or fine-grained bars with a rounded edge. You can use felt and leather circles with GOI paste.

Rice. 3.7. A - tsarazik; b - corners and their varieties: 1 - spicy; 2 – radius; 3 - concave; V - Possible sizes of corners and walls

Sloping chisels are useful for finishing the surface treatment, giving it softness and smooth transitions. Sloping chisels cut shallowly, as if dressing the product in rhythmic, low-contrast scales.

During operation, a semicircular chisel is held in the same way as a flat one.

Tsaraziki

These are semicircular chisels with a small (1–3 mm) bending radius of the blade and high, 5–10 mm parallel sides (Fig. 3.7, a). Convenient for cutting deep grooves. Used in reliefs, contour and ornamental carvings.

Corners

Two flat chisels connected at an angle form a corner. Small size, with an angle of 20–50°, a side height of 5–8 mm, they are convenient for cutting contours, tracing grooves, and making geometric patterns. Large angles with an angle from 50 to 140° and high sides (10–30 mm) are used for deep cuts in large works, reliefs, and also when removing large masses of material. If a flat chisel or knife has to make two cuts, then the corner does this job in one movement - it cuts off both edges at once, forming an even groove. This simplifies and speeds up the carving process. I offer a drawing of a small corner and size options (Fig. 3.7, b, c).

In Fig. Figure 3.7, b shows the profile of a concave corner, with which you can, where necessary, make the walls of the grooves convex. This will give your ornament greater artistic expressiveness.

Photo 15. Different kinds corners

Carvers mainly use angles with a straight cutting edge, which is perpendicular to the axis of the blade, but some work is more convenient to perform with elongated or beveled angles. Sharpening occurs in the following order. Sharpen each surface as you did with a flat chisel. Grind the outer side of the corner with a rounded chamfer. When doing this, be careful: it is easy to burn or drain more than necessary; cool it in water more often. To remove burrs from the inside of a corner, prepare a stick with a sharp edge wrapped in sandpaper. Finish the edge of the planes with a diamond or on a felt wheel with GOI paste or on a whetstone. For correct sharpening corner will require some skill.

Klukarzy

To select complex ornaments, deep volumes, bas-reliefs, you will need flat, semicircular, corner chisels of various sizes with a short or long curved blade and neck, which allow you to process places that are difficult to reach for ordinary chisels. Cranberries are complex in shape, so they are difficult to manufacture, but they greatly facilitate the labor process and improve the quality of work. Replacing them with some other tool is not always possible.

Photo 16. Various types of cranberries

There are several types of cranberries.

Spoon cutters

These are knives with a curved blade (Fig. 3.9, a), which have been used since ancient times to cut containers for spoons, ladles, and bowls (bratin). Convenient when working with soft wood.

Sharpening spoon cutters and rings is not very convenient; this work requires a certain skill. The difficulty is that the cutting edge is located in a circle. Be careful when touching the grinding wheel, turn the edge evenly, achieve an even (same width) chamfer without bald spots. Finish the finishing with a touchstone, sandpaper on a pencil, a stick or a felt circle with GOI paste.

Rice. 3.8. Klukarzy: A– stepped; b– with a short cloth; V– with a long cloth; G– concave; d– application

Rice. 3.9. spoon cutter ( A), ring ( b), hooks ( V), small plows ( G)

Required set of cutting tools

We looked at the main types of cutting tools. Based on what is proposed, you will be able to gradually acquire or manufacture the tool that is necessary for your work. Some carvers, forgetting that there is a fairly wide assortment, make do with a primitive set (3-6 chisels) and are clearly robbing themselves. I won’t argue - to each his own, but practice has shown that a sufficient variety of tools facilitates and speeds up the process of creating a work, and improves the quality of work.

Rice. 3.10. Basic forms of cutting tools: A- knife; b– knife-jamb; V– flat chisel; G– chisel with sides; d– sloping chisel; e– medium chisel; g – steep chisel; h– stepped chisel; And– cranberry with a short blade; To– cranberry with a long cloth; l– reverse cranberry; m– tsarazik; n– corner; O– spoon cutter; P- ring; R– small plow

I am providing a short list of the tools most used by carvers in the production of decorative and sculptural works. I recommend purchasing those in bold first. This set will open up wide opportunities for beginners.

Knives with blade length 40 , 60 mm

Jambs 10 wide, 15 , 22 mm

Flat chisels width 2, 5, 12, 18 , 25 mm

semicircular sloping 6, 12 , 20 mm

average 6, 12 , 18, 25 mm

cool 12 , 18, 22 mm

Carrion 2.5 mm wide

Angles 30°, 50°, 90°

Flat cranberries 5.15 mm wide

semicircular medium 18 mm

steep 12, 20 mm

Once again I would like to remind you that you should purchase cutting tools made only from good steel, suitable shape and sizes, with comfortable handles. Monitor its condition, sharpen it before work, store it in a visible place, and protect the cutting edge from becoming dull. Remember that the cutting tool is not only your first assistant in carving, but also a highly dangerous item. Treat him attentively, carefully and even with respect - he will answer you in the same way.

I will slowly fill this section with my tool that I use for wood carving.

Mainly homemade instrument. Of course, there are also store-bought ones, but not many. Of course I would like to buy myself some cutters for carving and chisels PFEIL made in Switzerland, but our desires do not always coincide with our capabilities.

Chisel tip for Foredom drill.

Yes, and the DeWalt 788 jigsaw machine, which I talked about on previous pages, still occupies me no less than carving, but now, with the onset of cold weather, I decided that I will not cut out until spring, otherwise everything in the room will be clogged with dust and you will be tortured to clean. So for now I’ll cut some spoons and whatever else comes to mind. Moreover, they sent a tip for Foredom drills.

I tried using the original Foredom tip, but I didn’t like it. Well, firstly, the motor itself needs up to 5 thousand revolutions, but I have 18 and even with a pedal, it’s not convenient. And the main thing I didn’t like was that you have to practically poke into the wood for it to start working, and to be honest, it’s expensive.

And then they helped me buy this tip, it cost almost three times less than the original one and, most importantly, it starts working even from a light touch to the wood.

Let's look at the photo.

Of course, my hands immediately itched, and from the birch logs that my neighbor brought me from his dacha (he heats the stove with them), in about ten minutes I hollowed out just such a blank for a spoon. Of course, first sawing it on a jigsaw. He will also bring me birch for the handles of cutters and knives, and maybe he even says alder.

As you can see, this attachment comes with 5 blades, which is certainly not enough, but at first I think it’s enough. And it won’t be difficult to make the necessary ones; all you need is steel 2.5 mm thick.

Yes, of course, you can choose with your hands, but it’s the 21st century and just in a few minutes you can hollow out the food in a spoon from this birch Foredom nozzle this is very, very nice

Well, I’ll show you what came out of this wooden spoon blank.

To complete the picture, I’ll also give you a video of a joyful American demonstrating this woodpecker attachment for a foredome.

For linden or alder, of course, I would hardly use such a tip; it’s somehow more convenient to use my hands. But for hard rocks I highly, highly recommend it.

By the way, this tip works, well, it’s not quiet, but it’s not very loud either, the neighbors shouldn’t come running.

I liked cutting wooden spoons, so I decided to continue, but at the same time making my cutting work a little easier by making a spoon cutter. It seemed to me that we should not deviate from traditional solutions and quickly made myself two spoon cutters from u8. Well, from what was at hand.

This is what happened.

Classic spoon cutter with sharpening on both sides. The handle is quite powerful at first glance

Second spoon cutter made it like this. I made two specifically because I didn’t know which one was best, more convenient, to use.

I sharpened both of them, although I suffered with this sharpening for quite a long time, it is very inconvenient to sharpen such tricky shapes. But how did you adapt and what was the result? As a result, it turned out that cutting with these classic formalities is terribly inconvenient. The hand gets tired very quickly because the main force falls on the hand, which must both cut and turn. In general, I spat on these spoon cutters and reluctantly went to the store for cranberries.

I bought it from Oleg at the Stameskino store.

If anyone is interested, I will put a link specifically to the cranberries that were purchased. Unfortunately, it is not possible to install specific cranberries on this particular one, but you can familiarize yourself with the various profiles produced by the Swiss company Pfeil. The choice is very, very diverse and, of course, your eyes may run wild at first. But if you understand why you need a tool and don’t mind spending a lot of money. That without a doubt any chisel, chisel, knife Pfeil Probably worth the money.

There I also purchased a Pfeil joint “to try,” or rather not the joint itself, but a blank for it. I quickly made a handle and this is what happened.

Of course, I didn’t leave it long enough without testing and planed the spoon with this knife. Holds an edge very well. So I recommend it.

But of course there were some problems. So the cranberries were not sharpened correctly, as I understand it, they polished it and filled up the cutting edge; moreover, they also filled up the sharpening plane itself. But help us with our hands and a little patience. What's worse is that inner surface The cranberry chisel was poorly processed, and it was very inconvenient to get there, but a drill with an elastic band helped. In general, this Pfeil metal is quite difficult to sharpen. But it's worth it, because it holds an edge for a very long time. It cuts softly, which can’t be said about the high-speed cutters that I have the majority of.

The jamb knife is also not without sin, the triggers were simply ripped off on it on a sharpener and that was the end of it. But the problem is that the descents are made at different angles. I had to resharpen it.

In general, I was pleased with the purchase, firstly, I met Oleg, and secondly, I acquired a really good instrument.

So I bought myself Pfeil cranberries, though they didn’t have the size I needed, but they were close enough to what I needed.

For those interested, in the file archive section I have posted a book (with pictures) about cutting wooden spoons. Book on English language, but everything is clear from the pictures and drawings.

Bought files for jigsaw machine Dewalt DW788

Considering the excellent price of these files and their excellent cutting ability, I don’t see any competitors. There weren’t any Prokson files lying around, and if you compare the price/quality, then Prokson files belong in a landfill.

For those interested, here is the store address www.scrollsawbladespatterns.com/ultra_reverse.htm

To be continued.... As soon as I get ready.

What are wooden spoons made of?

What kind of wood is best to carve wooden utensils from? This important question worries all novice carvers. For cutting spoons best fit blanks made of hard, but not splintering wood hardwood– aspen, ash, maple, birch, elm, walnut, cherry or maple.

For beginner carvers It's better to use linden. This wood is softer and lighter, has a uniform density and is well planed in all directions. To gain experience and practice basic carving skills, this is the most suitable material. Among other things, linden products are not prone to warping and do not emit tannins.

Coniferous trees unsuitable for making spoons due to its high resin content and characteristic odor. Also avoid exotic tropical woods such as teak, which can be toxic.

You can use planks as a blank, or split the whole ridge deck into small logs. The first option is more practical, the second is more traditional. The orientation of the wood fibers in the workpiece determines the symmetry of the pattern of the spoon bowl as shown in the photo.

A set of basic tools

To make a wooden spoon with your own hands you will need minimum set simple tool:

1. Knife. For wood carving, it is better to use a Bogorodsk knife. Its double-sided sharpening makes it equally convenient to work both “pull” and “pull”, and the narrow nose makes it possible to cut wood along internal lines.
2. Spoon cutter (scraper). This is a chisel with a sharp bend, designed for scraping wood in recesses and working on the internal walls when carving dishes. An alternative to a spoon cutter can be a wide cranberry or a regular semicircular chisel.
3. Straight chisel– used for even cutting of solid wood from a workpiece.
4. Clamp– necessary for convenient fixation of a piece of wood.
5. File for roughing and sandpaper of various grits (320, 180 and 120 grit) for flawless sanding of the product.
6. Stichel– thin steel cutter, for creating decorative carving on the handle.

How to Carve a Spoon from Wood: Step-by-Step Guide

1. Using a template, transfer the top and side views onto a piece of wood. Please note that the orientation of the wood fibers is longitudinal, in this case the spoon will have maximum strength.

1. Having fixed the workpiece with a clamp, proceed to roughly forming the bowl. For these purposes, a spoon cutter is used, but you can limit yourself to an ordinary semicircular chisel or a wide cranberry. Wood is sampled in the direction of the grain. When deepening the bowl, do not forget that you need to leave a small allowance in thickness for finishing trimming and grinding.

Hollow out the bowl on the workpiece rectangular shape much more convenient, since the piece of wood is rigidly fixed and maintains a stable position.

1. When the recess is formed, you can begin cutting off the excess mass in the horizontal and vertical planes, following the top and side contours. To do this, it is most convenient to use a jigsaw or band saw, but if you wish, you can perform all the manipulations with a straight chisel or hacksaw.

1. Using a Bogorodsk knife, cut off the convex part of the spoon. Using a wide chisel, we give the bowl a perfectly even, rounded shape. Using a knife and chisel we work out the shape of the handle.

1. Using a spoon cutter, trim the bowl cleanly and carefully align its edges as shown in the picture.

1. Grinding is carried out in two or three passes, each time reducing the grain size of the abrasive.

Advice!

When in contact with water, even a perfectly sanded surface can begin to fluff. Raised pile does not spoil appearance spoons, but it feels unpleasant in the mouth. Therefore, if you plan to use the utensils you made yourself for their intended purpose, you can solve this problem using the old proven method. After grinding, the spoon is wetted and thoroughly dried, passing again with a fine-grained abrasive. This procedure is repeated two to three times.

Our version of making a spoon is a more adapted technique. It is designed to be used modern instrument, which, although it simplifies the work process, at the same time distances us from the centuries-old traditions of carving art.

The secrets of primordially Russian carving of a wooden spoon - watch in the presented video:

How to cover a wooden spoon for eating?

The final touch to creating a wooden spoon is its treatment with a finishing compound. And here, as a rule, many questions arise. If you are carving a decorative spoon, then everything is simple: you can paint it, apply any varnish coating or treat it with wax. With products that are planned to be used for their intended purpose, everything is more complicated. When choosing a composition for impregnation, it is important that it is practical and safe.

In the Russian tradition, wooden spoons were and continue to be used for processing. This impregnation is environmentally friendly, has antibacterial properties, emphasizes the texture of wood, and is easy to apply. But it will have to be updated periodically. At the same time, using raw material as finishing linseed oil, over time it may begin to impart an unpleasant rancid odor to food.

More practical solution is the use of special mineral oils for finishing wooden utensils. This impregnation gives the surface water-repellent properties, does not form a film - the pores remain open and the wood continues to breathe. Mineral oils do not affect the taste of food and are more durable.

About practicality and food safety finishing compounds We talked in detail in our .

All photos from the article

In the arsenal of any craftsman engaged in the manufacture of decorative objects, there will definitely be wood cutters for self made. These devices can be very different, and therefore it is advisable for beginners to become familiar with their main types, as well as study the features of choosing and caring for such an instrument.

Carving tools

General principles

Wood carving is a fairly popular technique for decorating various products.

As a rule, the process itself follows this scheme:

• First, a blank is made from wood, be it a flat board, a block or a figured blank.

Note! Sometimes with the help of . In this case, a fragment is selected whose shape has maximum decorative potential.

• Then a rough leveling of the surface of the workpiece is performed, during which all defects are removed from it.

• After this, the surface is processed with special cutters, with the help of which a part of the wood is selected. Due to this, a decorative relief is formed.
• After the actual carving is completed, finishing– grinding of cut areas, impregnation protective compounds, full or partial painting, varnishing, etc.

Most important tools In this process are wood carving cutters. In addition to the skill of the carver himself, it is from the quality and correct selection The cutter depends on how clean the ornament or plot image on the wood will be.

That is why below we will look at the main types of such tools and describe where and how they are used.

Main types of incisors

To create three-dimensional images, masters use the most different types wood cutters. In principle, if you have the skill, you can do without some of the products listed below, but to achieve the best result, it is better to collect as extensive a set as possible and use each device for its intended purpose.

The main types of cutters are presented in the table below:

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