What kind of soil is needed for home flowers. How to prepare soil for lemon at home. Acidic and slightly acidic soils are preferred

Succulents will not be surprised by lack of water, but if natural conditions They compensate for the lack of moisture with morning dew and precipitation, and in the apartment - with spraying and watering. Moreover, spraying has higher value, since dry air is less tolerated by aloe than dry soil. It is regularly held in summer and spring in warm, clear weather.

A significant advantage of desert vegetation is that if you forget to water it, it won't even notice. Watering is carried out once every 10 days, with the onset of cold weather even less often - at the beginning and end of winter. Portions are regulated according to the principle “the hotter, the larger”.

With this plant you can save not only water, but also space: they fit perfectly in small pots. Despite this self-denial, succulents have a number of modest requirements for their maintenance.

1. Protection from direct sunlight. The flower will be very grateful to you if, instead of the scorching desert sun, there is a small shadow above its leaves.
2. Hibernation. All a tropical dweller needs for a good rest is dryness and coolness. Therefore, it is not watered in winter. Otherwise, the leaves continue to grow but do not receive enough daylight, stretch out and fade.
3. Loose soil “without luxury”. That is, without nitrogenous substances coming with humus and other fertilizers.
4. Application of fertilizers “at the tip of a knife.” It is necessary to enrich the substrate with organic and mineral substances with extreme caution, regardless of the composition of the soil for aloe.
5. Hardening and disease prevention. When attacked by pests, you need to prescribe the necessary “medicines” to treat them.
6. Smooth transition from winter to summer mode. The awakening of vegetation from hibernation should be gradual.
7. Spraying, especially on hot days. In the area where succulents live, be it a greenhouse or a windowsill, high humidity should be maintained.
8. Fresh air. The room must be ventilated, but drafts should not be allowed.
9. Moisturized inner surface flower pot. Drying it out can cause root death.
10. Regular medical check-up. Checks are carried out to timely identify deviations in flower development and take the necessary measures.

Preparing the soil for aloe

Nothing spoils the life of an evergreen succulent more than compacted soil or stagnant water. These two troubles make it very difficult for oxygen to reach the roots. Therefore, the soil must be airy: loose, water- and breathable. As a cultivator, the soil for aloe includes:

• river, coarse sand;
• gravel;
• brick chips;
• shell rock;
• perlite (volcanic rock).

You can determine what kind of land is needed for aloe based on the following: indicators:

• water-alkaline balance: neutral, slightly acidic;
• structure: loose, porous;
• composition: clay, turf, sand, humus.

If we look at the pot in cross-section, we will see a “cake” Bottom part which is filled with drainage, the middle one is filled with an earthen mixture, and the top is framed with gravel or coarse sand.

Regardless of the variety, the presence of turf or clay-turf soil in the soil mixture for growing crops is mandatory. The substrate consists mainly of the following components mixed in equal parts:

• clay-turf soil;
• leaf soil;
• sand.

The required soil composition for aloe is supplemented with neutral or slightly acidic peat and cultivators. Although this is not a universal formula, it is excellent for most types of crops.

The best dishes for planting are plastic or heavy terracotta. Unlike clay, it does not have pores, so the walls of such pots do not evaporate moisture, but retain it. When choosing dishes, be guided by the size of the roots - they should fit freely, at a distance of about 3 cm from the walls. The tightness of the “housing” can be determined by the ratio of the length of the leaves to the diameter of the container, ideally it is 2:1.

The best place for them is window sills on the south or east side; northern coldness has a negative effect on plants.

To maintain healing qualities, indoor pets need fresh air, provided it is warm. That is, opening the window for ventilation on a rainy November day is categorically not recommended. A portion of fresh air improves plant immunity, reducing the risk of infection and weakening. They are brought out of hibernation gradually, replacing watering with spraying. You can also place water next to the pot.

The flower is not picky when it comes to food: a weak solution of low-nitrogen fertilizer is quite enough for it. An excess of nitrogen leads to developmental anomalies such as delayed flowering and massive emergence of shoots.

How to plant aloe correctly

Planting aloe is done in several ways. You can choose the most convenient one. So, if you want to get one or two small flowers, use cuttings; if you want a dozen, replant the “babies” (although you still need to wait for them), and sowing is suitable for global propagation. Let's consider all the methods in more detail.

Cuttings. An express planting method by rooting one or another part of the trunk. It is advisable to carry out the procedure in a room greenhouse so that the air is moist. You can raise the temperature to a favorable level of 30˚C using a spray bottle.

Drainage (slag, large shards) and sand are placed in the dish, slightly moistened and the leaf cuttings are pressed at a slight angle. Sand can be mixed with peat, or you can use an earthen mixture for succulents. After cutting the cuttings, 2-3 hours should pass for them to be covered with a thin film.

Sowing. A reliable but labor-intensive way to grow an entire flowering meadow. Sowing is carried out in a warm and humid greenhouse with heating and fluorescent lamps. The seeds are placed in a mixture prepared as follows recipe:

1. Take 1 part well-rotted leaf soil and ½ part of washed river sand.
2. 1-2 weeks before sowing, sterilize the sand in a water bath for half an hour.
3. Soak the pots or bowls for several hours, dry them, and pour the mixture into them.
4. Spread the seeds, press lightly and sprinkle thin layer sand.
5. Moisten the dishes by dipping them 1/3 of the way into a tray of water. As soon as the water gets wet upper layer, place the pot in the greenhouse. This way, the soil will be moistened evenly, and the seeds will not float to the surface.

Greet seedlings that sprouted on days 2-3 with a fine spray bottle. Plant them after true leaves form.

Relocation of "children". A healthy mother plant is usually surrounded by small shoots - “babies”. They can be transplanted at your discretion individually or as a whole bunch. The “babies” are carefully removed, along with the roots. Whole shoots can be transplanted immediately into the ground, those that are damaged can be transplanted 3-4 days after they have dried out.

Knowing what kind of soil aloe needs, how and where to plant it, spray it and water it, a desert flower can be grown with almost no effort. The main thing is to take into account its “prickly” nature and the difficulties of city life.

Dracaena is an unpretentious indoor plant that even a novice gardener can care for. An important point is a flower transplant. Normal growth and healthy appearance of the plant depends entirely on what soil is chosen. Dracaena requires a special nutritional composition.

Description of the plant

One of the most popular indoor plants can be safely called dracaena. In appearance, the flower is very similar to a palm tree. However, they are not related. Dracaena belongs to the genus Ruscus and is represented by a huge number of varieties that differ from each other in the shape and color of the leaves, and the height of the trunk. The flower comes from hot African lands.

An evergreen plant usually has a smooth and straight trunk, long leaves and pointed ends. The huge demand for dracaenas is due not only to the peculiar appearance, but also unpretentious in care. Therefore, they are used in the design of apartments, offices and offices.

The optimal air temperature for the comfortable existence of a flower is 15-20° C. Ideally, it should not be exposed to direct Sun rays. Some varieties do not tolerate drafts. Special attention should be given to planned transplants. Experts recommend using special soil for dracaenas for this purpose. Which one will be better? The plant “loves” soil, the composition of which is enriched with substances beneficial to it.

Choosing land for dracaena

The substrate for transplanting a false palm tree must have a slightly acidic reaction and a set of certain useful components. Therefore, most gardeners prefer to buy ready-made soil suitable for palm trees. Without applying special effort you can try to do it yourself suitable soil for dracaenas

Store-bought soil mixtures contain the following substances:

• vermiculite;
• mid peat;
• sand;
• vermicompost;
• compost.

Enriched soil allows the plant to receive necessary substances for growth and attractive appearance.

What kind of soil does dracaena “like”?

Experienced flower growers can make the soil for transplanting a false palm tree themselves. Most often, a mixture of turf and leaf soil, sand and humus (in a 1:1 ratio) is used for this. Experts also warn that it is highly undesirable to use clay for growing “false palm trees”.

There is also controversy regarding peat. Some gardeners claim that this component absorbs moisture very quickly and practically does not give it back. Dracaenas “love” wet soil. Therefore, if peat is present in the soil mixture, the plant will have to be watered somewhat more often.

Soil for dracaena (the composition of the finished mixture varies depending on the manufacturer) must necessarily have a coarse fibrous structure to ensure timely development and normal growth of the plant.

You can find leaf soil for planting indoor plants in parks and squares. It is best to collect it under maple and birch trees. For dracaenas, you need to take only the top layer of soil with fallen leaves. The soil is piled up and soaked nitrogen fertilizers. After 1-2 years, the soil for dracaenas will be ready for use.

Turf soil can be found in meadows where cereal crops and clover. Small plates of soil need to be laid on top of each other and watered with slurry and water. In 2 years it will be ready for planting dracaenas and other indoor flowers.

Features of transplanting dracaena

What kind of soil is needed for dracaena when first transplanting? In this case, preference should be given to a purchased substrate that has a slightly acidic reaction. It is almost impossible to adjust this indicator when using a soil mixture prepared independently.

By moving the plant to " new house“It’s better to do it in early spring. During this period, dracaenas wake up from hibernation and begin to actively grow. The pot should be a few centimeters larger in diameter than the previous one. If the pot is too large, water will be retained in it, which will lead to the death of the flower.

It is imperative to make drainage from small pebbles, small pebbles, crushed expanded clay or shards. This will prevent the accumulation of water in the lower part of the pot and protect the roots of the plant from the development of putrefactive processes.

What to do with old land?

When removing dracaena from a pot, there is no need to shake off the old substrate. The flower, together with a lump of earth, is transplanted into new soil.

For dracaenas, it is better to choose stable pots made of clay or ceramics. It is mandatory to have perforated holes at the bottom of the container.

When transplanting dracaena, less than half of the soil is poured into the pot, then the trunk itself is placed in the center and the remaining soil mixture is filled on the sides. If the plant has damaged roots, they should be carefully trimmed. After transplanting, the flower needs to be watered using a small amount of fertilizer. This will help the plant adapt faster.

Many gardeners advise replanting dracaena every 2-3 years. During this time, the flower takes all the nutrients from the soil. It is easy to determine the need to change the plant’s habitat based on its condition. When a flower no longer has enough minerals, the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry, and new ones grow very slowly.

When choosing soil for dracaenas, you should definitely pay attention to its composition. Mandatory components are substances such as vermicompost, sapropel and mid-peat. The first component is the waste product of earthworms. Eliminates pathogens in the soil.

Sapropel is an organic sediment formed at the bottom of reservoirs as a result of the decomposition of microorganisms of plant and animal origin. The structure of the middle peat allows it to retain moisture and prevent drying out of the root system.

After transplanting into new soil, you need to water the dracaena 2-3 times a week. The leaves must be sprayed with a sprayer. For a speedy recovery, it is recommended to fertilize the flower with preparations such as Zircon and Epin.

Properly selected soil for dracaena is the key to beautiful and healthy plant, one of the most important conditions for plant growth. The soil for dracaena should be light, dry quickly after watering and provide good air access to the roots of the plant.

Among flower growers, there are two most ideal soil compositions for growing dracaena:

1. An earthen mixture consisting of the following components: 1 part turf soil, 1 part humus and 1 part sand.
2. Substrate from equal parts turf, leaf soil, humus, peat and sand.

But the peat included in the soil cannot provide a good microclimate in the pot, since it absorbs water well and releases it back very poorly. Therefore, when growing dracaena, soils containing peat should be avoided.

If you do not have the opportunity to purchase special soil for dracaena, then you can easily prepare it at home. For those who live in a private house with a vegetable garden, or for those who have a summer house, preparing the soil is very easy: for this you can take fertile soil and add coarse sand to it. The main thing is not to use clay soil for this.

When replanting dracaena, do not forget that the pot with the plant must have very good drainage. The height of the drainage layer should be 1/10 of the height of the pot. For drainage, you can use small expanded clay, shards from pots or small crushed stone. Don't forget the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot.

Although, as already mentioned, the basis of plant nutrition is carbon dioxide, water and light, some plant substances necessary for normal existence are obtained from the soil. This is her first and main role. However, soil is not only a source of nutrition, but also a home for indoor plants.

A significant part of a houseplant - the root - is entirely underground. It is he who sucks out the substances necessary for the plant from the soil, but can only do this in conditions that are comfortable for him (for different plants they are somewhat different): at a certain humidity, acidity and even mechanical composition.

In order for the soil to fulfill its first and main function, it is important that it is not depleted. Therefore, plants have to be replanted from time to time or compensate for the lack of nutrients with the help of fertilizers. What is easier for you: to feed the plants once every 7-10 days or to replant them once every year or two? Probably the second one.

In addition, for both roles of soil it is necessary that it have normal structure and acidity. This is also important so that the plant can absorb the necessary chemical elements without labor, and simply by providing the plant with its usual habitat.

Structural soil, that is, soil with pronounced lumps, is better for plants, since it is able to protect deep layers from drying out, and dry lumps on the surface (unlike structureless soil) do not form a dense, fused crust that squeezes plants and prevents seedlings from sprouting. If a crust has formed, it must be destroyed.

Most indoor plants need soil mixtures with a neutral reaction, but not all.

Acidic and slightly acidic soils are preferred by:

And also almost all cacti (pH from 4.5 to 6.0).

* - with the exception of platycerium cultivated on bark.

A slightly alkaline reaction is desirable (pH about 7.0):

Gardenia - Ophiopogon

Calceolaria - Chlorophytum (pH up to 7.5)

Campanula equifolia groom" and "bride"

Don't be scared by this "complex chemistry"! You need to know these lists in order to choose the most suitable soil when purchasing it. The acidity of the soil must be indicated on the label.

Buy ready-made earth mixtures desirable for several reasons. Firstly, experts compiled them specifically for indoor plants, which are more delicate and finicky than open ground plants. Chemical composition soil taken from a garden or forest does not coincide with that needed by your flowers, and the microflora traditional for a given area (i.e., soil microorganisms) can be destructive for them due to the lack of immunity.

Soil taken from an urban garden can be extremely contaminated with heavy metals and other toxic substances that are harmful to plants. The soil from the field may be saline. Forest soil usually has increased acidity. Soil from the unknown garden plot may be infected with fungus or viruses. In other words, by purchasing a ready-made soil mixture, you will get rid of unnecessary risk and a lot of problems. Ease of use, sterility, the presence of an additional supply of minerals, saving time - all this is worth the modest money you spend on it.

If you decide to buy a ready-made mixture, all you have to do is monitor the humidity and changes in its quality:

Under the influence of watering, it may become salty (then it will have to be changed earlier);

It may form a dense crust (it needs to be loosened);

In any case, it will deplete over time. However, for several months after replanting, you can safely forget about fertilizing and fertilizing even those plants that love them very much.

Goriginal oneshmixtures for indoor plants.

On sale you can find the so-called “single garden mixture”, special “universal earthen mixtures” for different groups plants, peat-mineral mixtures (they are best used for rooting cuttings and growing seedlings), artificial substrates. In the store you can get advice from sellers about which mixture is suitable for what, in as a last resort, the packaging will indicate basic properties such as acidity and approximate composition. IN Lately Instructions increasingly contain lists of plants for which a given soil mixture is intended.

Sometimes the soil mixture is prepared for narrower groups of plants, for example; mixtures "Palm" or "Begonia". They can differ in both acidity and mechanical structure, degree of “lightness”, friability, as well as the presence of special additives such as pine bark, charcoal or bone meal. Some of the listed earth mixtures are very similar in composition, but are produced by different manufacturing companies.

Specialized mixtures are better than universal ones because they better take into account the individual soil requirements of plants. However, some plants are completely undemanding to soil; any “universal” soil mixture will suit them - this feature will be noted in the individual characteristics of the plants.

As a rule, earth mixtures are sold in bags of 2 kg, somewhat less often - 5 kg. Almost all are additionally fortified with nutrients.

Here is a list of the most commonly found soil mixtures on sale:

• Vermion primer - universal
• Soil "Flower" - universal for decorative flowering species
• Primer "Exotica" - universal
• Soil "Cypress" - for coniferous plants
• Soil "Citrus" - for citrus fruits
• Soil “For azaleas” - also suitable for growing camellias
• Soil “For begonia” - also suitable for peperomia, gloxinia, tradescantia and some others
• Soil "Begonia" - similar to the previous one
• Soil “For dracaena and yucca” - also suitable for agave, cordyline, palm, hibiscus
• Yucca soil - similar to the previous one
• Primer "Palm" - for palm trees different types(available in different packaging - 2 and 5 kg)
• Soil “For palm trees” - also suitable for dracaena, yucca, cordyline, hibiscus, etc., different packaging
• Soil “For roses” - also suitable for hibiscus, forcing carnations and chrysanthemums
• Soil “For violets” - also suitable for all plants of the Gesneriaceae family
• Soil “For Gloxinia” - also suitable for begonias
• Soil “For Araucaria” - also suitable for all conifers
• Soil “For gardenia” - also suitable for all plants of the Rubiaceae family
• Soil “For Dieffenbachia” - also suitable for any aroid
• Soil “For Jasmine” - also suitable for passionflower and many acanthaceae and kutraaceae
• Soil “For arrowroot” - also suitable for stromanta, calathea, ferns
• Soil "Fern" - for ferns (except for platycerium cultivated on bark)
• Soil “For peperomia” - also suitable for other plants of the pepper family
• Primer “For spathiphyllum” - suitable for all aroids
• Soil “For Tradescantia” - also suitable for dichorisandra, collision and other commelinaceae
• Soil “For orchids and bromeliads” - specialized
• Soil "Orchid" - specialized
• Soil “For mulberries” - any ficus
• Soil “For cyclamen” - also suitable for any primroses.

Some of the earth mixtures listed here are very similar in composition, but are produced by different manufacturers.

! The range of soils is constantly changing and may not coincide in different regions, in this case, the instructions on the package will come to your aid.

Replanting indoor plants.

A plant needs to be replanted when:

• The soil has become depleted and you don't want to bother with fertilizers. By the way, even if you do feed the plant regularly, sooner or later the soil will be depleted, and you will still have to replace it. IN open ground This phenomenon is combated using the principle of crop rotation - periodic replacement of vegetation in a particular area. IN room conditions soil degradation occurs faster, since its volume in the pot is small, and its ability to self-heal is extremely limited. That's why houseplants need to be replanted from time to time, even if external signs there is no such need. It is not advisable to leave even tub plants (which are transplanted much less frequently than others) in the same soil for more than three years. In such cases, only the soil changes; the container can remain the same. But if you are dealing with a species for which replanting as such is undesirable due to the fragility of its roots and it needs to be transshipped (you will read what this means below), then the volume of the container must be increased. The fact that it is time to replant a plant is often signaled by the cessation of its growth, which does not occur during the dormant period.
• The capacity has become small. All flowers grow, and sooner or later the container in which they were kept becomes too small for them in the literal physical sense. Only a few species (like aspidistra) do well in close quarters. When roots don't have enough space, they can't pull nutritional elements from soil to full force, and the soil is depleted faster. Due to excessive crowding, the roots intertwine the soil so that the earthen ball becomes too dense and water will bend around it without wetting the middle - a problem of lack of moisture will arise. In addition, the roots need to breathe, and air cannot flow freely into overly compacted soil. The fact that it’s time to replant a plant can sometimes be seen by its very size in comparison with the pot: the latter can simply get lost against the background of the green mass. Well, if the roots begin to crawl out to the surface or into the hole at the bottom of the pot due to cramped conditions, there is no way to delay the transplant! If the reason for replanting is the immediate tightness of a pot or other container, replanting and transshipment are equal, but the container must be changed.
• Sometimes there is a need for an emergency transplant, for example , If the earth is rotten(this will be signaled by the sour smell emanating from it and the sickly appearance of the plant) or salted from long-term use of hard water (in this case, white crystals form on the surface of the soil, and in ceramic pots, salt exudates can appear through their walls). Transshipment is excluded even for plants that do not tolerate transplantation well - you should choose the lesser of the two risks.
• If the plant has suffered from any infectious disease, its pathogens can remain in the soil and lead to re-infection as of this flower, and those nearby. Transshipment is undesirable, but possible - soil that cannot be replaced should be additionally treated with appropriate preparations (depending on the disease). The transplant should be done when the flower has already recovered from the illness (during it, replanting can be additional stress).
• If a freshly bought flower grows in peat, which happens in the vast majority of cases. Peat allows young plant It is better to take root, but does not satisfy the needs of an adult flower. Such a plant can be transferred, having only partially cleared the soil so that its share becomes relatively small - then the peat will begin to play the role of fertilizer.

You should not replant plants during the periods of budding and flowering. (unless transplantation is due to urgent need): they may shed buds or flowers.

It is not advisable to replant weakened plants if their condition is not caused by soil conditions.

It is better to refrain from replanting in bad (stressful for the plant) weather conditions: in intense heat in summer, in autumn or spring frosts(if the heating is not working).

There are two types of transplantation: actually transfer, in which the roots of the plant are completely cleared of the soil, and transshipment, when the plant is moved to a new container along with a lump of earth. Plants with delicate and brittle roots that are easily damaged are usually handled.

Before transplanting, you should prepare in advance a container for the flower, i.e. a pot or tub.

During a “planned” transplant (that is, caused by plant growth), each new pot for small plants it should be 2-3 cm wider in diameter, and for large plants - up to 7 cm. Right size It is easy to pick up a ceramic pot by placing a plant in an old pot in it. The old pot should fit easily into the new one, and the gap between the edges should be about half a centimeter. IN too much big pot the plant will quickly grow green mass to the detriment of flowering, which is undesirable for ornamental flowering species, and in soil that is not used by roots, fungi can easily grow, which can cause disease. In addition, purely aesthetically too small plant Doesn't look very attractive in a big pot. IN pot too small the plant will grow more slowly, as it quickly uses up its supply of nutrients, and will soon begin to wither.

Try to choose the right ratio of the height and width of the container: species with short roots feel better in squat ones, species with a developed root system - in tall pots.

In container Necessarily there should be holes. Under no circumstances should you plant a plant in a pot without a hole: the moisture in it will stagnate, the soil will turn sour, and the roots will rot from the moisture accumulated below (in natural environment excess moisture seeps into the lower horizons). For the same purpose, it is advisable (and for some species, mandatory) to lay a drainage layer in the pot.

For drainage can be used various materials: fragments of ceramics, broken brick (the fragments should be small, but not so small that they clog the holes in the bottom of the pot), crushed stone, large pebbles, crumbled foam plastic (the latter is quite good for heat-loving plants, as an additional thermal insulation layer). However, it is best to use special drainage, which is sold both separately and sometimes in a set with ready-made soil mixtures: expanded clay or expanded vermiculite are offered as it, that is, substances that are also ameliorants (soil improvers). It is especially advisable to use them as drainage if your apartment is located near busy highways: expanded clay and vermiculite absorb heavy metals from the soil that enter it with gases.

The material from which the container is made is less important, but still ceramic pots preferable, since their walls allow air and moisture to pass through. Plastic or metal containers They do not have this ability, but they are stronger, easier to clean and often have a more attractive color. Glazed ceramic containers combine the positive aspects of both types, but are often more expensive.

Don't forget that pots, like the flowers themselves, can be an excellent decoration for a room. They can be selected (as well as painted or decorated) to match the tone of the furniture or walls, or, on the contrary, they can be turned into special color spots: the main thing is that they are in harmony with the rest of the interior. For aesthetic reasons, you can also use flowerpots. It's all about your taste here.

After the container has been prepared and a layer of drainage has been poured into it, proceed to replanting.

It's done like this:

• Water the flower you are about to replant well.
• Turn the container over, holding the plant by the stem, lightly hit the bottom with your hand (large pots can be hit with the side walls against the edge of the table) and remove the earthen ball.
• Gently tumble or wash away the soil.
• If a continuous “coat” of small roots has formed near the walls, it must also be removed, having previously been cut in several places.
• Carefully inspect the roots. Cut off rotten ones (pathogenic bacteria or fungi can accumulate on them). It is advisable to sprinkle cuts on large roots with crushed coal.
• If you decide to combine replanting with propagation, for species that reproduce by dividing the bush or rhizomes, cut the plant sharp knife or a razor. For divisions (the so-called daughter plants obtained as a result of division), you need to prepare the appropriate number of containers. Some species can be separated simply by hand.
• Pour a small amount of soil mixture into the pot and tamp it down over the soil and the bottom of the walls.
• Carefully straighten the roots, place the plant so that they are in the middle of the container, and begin filling the pot with the remaining soil mixture, gradually adding soil in small portions from different sides so that it bends the roots as little as possible. Near the edges of the pot, you can squeeze the soil with your fingers; between the roots, you can direct its flow with a peg. The roots should not be allowed to bend upward.
• When the soil mixture is completely filled (there should be a distance of 1 to 4 cm from the surface of the soil to the top edge of the pot, depending on the size of the container), it must be compacted, pressing it from above quite firmly, but carefully so as not to damage the plant. Be careful not to cover the root collar.
• Water the plant unless it is a succulent. The transplant is complete!

Cacti and other succulents should not be watered immediately or for some time after transplanting.

Do not be alarmed if the flower suddenly loses one or two lower leaves. This is natural for newly transplanted plants.

When transshipping, a plant removed from its previous “house” is simply lowered into a prepared pot with drainage and a layer of compressed soil, after which the remaining space is filled with soil mixture and the flower is watered.

Partial replacement of soil for indoor plants.

Some houseplants difficult and sometimes impossible transplant or transship. It is not easy to remove a whole tree or one and a half meter high prickly pear from a tub, and in offices large specimens are often grown in stationary concrete containers.

In these cases replanting is replaced by partial replacement of soil. To do this, earth is raked out along the edges of the tub or container. It is better to do this with your hands, first carefully, without touching the roots, loosening the top layer with a fork (or other convenient tool). In this way, you can remove about a quarter of the total volume of soil and replace it with new one.

Since not all the soil is renewed, it is advisable to do this a couple of times a year - in spring and autumn, and compensate for the lack of nutrients in depleted soil with the obligatory so-called basic fertilizer, in which the supply of nutrients is mixed with the soil. Of course, than less land will be replaced, the greater the concentration of fertilizers should be.

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Gardeners rarely think about the growing requirements of beets and what kind of soil they like. They often plant it without preliminary preparation soil and compliance temperature regime. It's not rational. Soil that meets all crop requirements increases the yield and quality of root crops several times.

Suitable soil types for beets in terms of mechanical composition, cultivated with organic matter loams and sandy loams. Such soils are easy to cultivate, evenly distribute and retain moisture in the root layer, are well aerated and retain heat.

Much worse the plant will develop aluminas. They do not warm up well and practically do not allow air and moisture to pass through. Water constantly stagnates on their surface, disrupting the already low aeration. The development of vegetables on such land is delayed, and yields drop.

Unsuitable for beets sandstones. They quickly warm up, process and allow moisture to pass through. But increased throughput leads to the leaching of minerals and microflora into the deep layers of the soil, the beets receive virtually no nutrition.

Suitable soil composition - loam or sandy loam

In addition to the mechanical composition of the earth, its acidity and alkalinity are taken into account. Optimal values ​​for beets are 6.0 -7.0 pH.

Too acidic soils with a pH value less than 6, and alkaline soils more than 7.0. A significant deviation in any direction leads to a decrease in yield, often to the death of the plant.

Acidic soil causes damage to the core rot and nutritional disturbances. Alkaline earth disrupts the absorption of many minerals and reduces the formation of chlorophyll. Plants form weak roots, take root poorly, and leaves often turn yellow.

The acidic environment makes mobile heavy metals - mercury and lead, which enter the ground from polluted environment. In neutral soil they are in a bound state, and in acidic soil capable of accumulating in plant tissues. Any vegetable crop grown on excessively sour earth, is potentially hazardous to health.

Soil type determination and preparation

Before preparing the soil determine its mechanical composition. For determining loam, you need to roll a small amount of soil in your palm. The earth is easily formed into a sausage, but is destroyed when deformed. When squeezed in hand sandy loam forms into a lump, but quickly disintegrates.

These types of soil do not need to be structured. It is enough to add mineral elements to nourish the vegetable during the growing season.

If, during digging, the earth forms large lumps and sticks to your feet and shovel, this is alumina. To increase fertility, coarse river sand is added to it at a rate of 20-40 kg per 1 m2. After sanding, the alumina is suitable for growing beets in the first year.

Sandstones practically do not form a lump when squeezed in the hand and quickly crumble. On this type of soil, beets are planted only after structuring, having achieved compacting and binding properties.

Add peat, humus, compost and clay flour at 20 kg per 1 m2. On initial stage processing, carrots, onions, strawberries are planted, and beets are planted after 1-2 years.

Fertilizer application

The soil for beets is prepared in the fall. The area under the garden bed is dug up to a depth of 30 cm, removing weed roots and debris.

Fertilizers are applied per 1 m2:

• ammonium sulfate 30 g;
• superphosphate 40 g;
• potassium sulfate 15 g;
• ammonium nitrate 20 g (in spring).

Beet sensitive to boron deficiency. Lack of the substance leads to chlorosis of the growing point, infertility, and the formation of hard tissue in root crops. Boron is added annually at 3 g per 1 m2.

To the beet bed fresh manure applied 1-2 years before planting under previous cultures. Manure greatly reduces plant productivity, stimulates the development of vegetative mass, and imparts an off-flavor to root crops.

How to regulate acidity

Acidic soil most often forms in damp, low-lying areas with constant stagnation. spring water. The composition of winter and spring precipitation plays a certain role.

If you dig into acidic soil, at a shallow depth you will notice light layer, similar to ash. Horsetail, pickleweed, plantain, sorrel and speedwell grow abundantly on it.

The abundance of plants: quinoa, coltsfoot, nettle, clover, chamomile, wheatgrass and bindweed indicate for neutral acidity levels.

The approximate level of soil acidity is shown tests for litmus paper . They can be purchased at garden centers with instructions for use.

The best substance to reduce soil acidity calcium carbonate. It is found in ground limestone, dolomite, cement dust, chalk, wood ash, bone meal or marl.

Approximate application rates ground limestone per 1 m2 different types soil (pH less than 4.5/ pH 4.6-6.0):

• sand 400/100 g;
• sandy loam 600/150 g;
• loamy 800/350 g;
• aluminas 1100/500 g.

Methods acidification alkaline soil depends on the deviation of indicators from 7.0 pH. If the acidity is reduced by 1-1.5 units, use per 1 m2: high-moor peat (10 kg) or fresh manure (10 kg); before winter, cover the surface of the earth with sphagnum moss, pine litter or sawdust.

Fast increase in acidity guarantees the introduction of mineral elements per 10 m2: colloidal sulfur 1 kg or ferrous sulfate 0.5 kg.

In the spring, the prepared area is harrowed and a bed is formed in a lighted place. In low-lying areas with close occurrence groundwater beets are grown on a ridged bed. Ridge height 30 cm, width up to 120 cm. The ridges are cut before sowing the seeds.

Beets develop well after tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, cabbage and peas. The crop should not be planted after potatoes, spinach, carrots, radishes and turnips.

What temperature is needed for beets?

Beet seeds are sown after the soil has warmed up. at a depth of 10 cm up to +8+10 degrees. Seeds are able to germinate at a minimum of +5+6 degrees. But landing in cold ground delays plant development and increases the risk of fungal diseases.

They also focus on the average performance of the latest spring frosts region. The seedlings are able to withstand short frosts down to -2 degrees, but after that they bolt. Therefore, seeds are sown only after a stable soil temperature of more than 10 degrees and air temperature of more than 15 degrees have been established.

When the air temperature drops below +1 degree in the evening after sowing the seeds, the bed is better cover.

For this purpose, covering materials are used: newspapers, cardboard or spandbond. Materials should not touch the seedlings. Plants can be left without light for up to 7 days.

Optimal temperature after germination and during root formation +15+18 degrees, and during the formation of root crops +20+25 degrees.

Even slight freezing of root vegetables at -1 makes them unsuitable for storage. This must be taken into account in the fall during the harvesting period.

Structuring and preparing the soil does not guarantee annual high yield beets. It is advisable to change the place where the vegetable is grown annually, returning it back only after 3-4 years. To do this, they draw up a plan for crop rotation of vegetables on the site, carefully harvesting and fertilizing it every year.