GREAT ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CULINARY ARTS.

ALL RECIPES V.V. POKHLEBKINA

You are holding a unique book in your hands. She will become an indispensable adviser for anyone who wants to enrich their table with the most popular dishes, as well as learn how to cook not only according to the usual and boring recipes, but with the knowledge of cooking and even creatively.

The author of this wonderful book, William Vasilyevich Pokhlebkin, is no longer with us - he tragically died in March 2000. The murder of the writer was a real shock for the whole of Russia - after all, it is difficult to find a person who would not have heard about Pokhlebkin's wonderful culinary recipes or did not use his wise advice. Now gourmets have only his cookbooks left. This edition is an invaluable gift from the Master to admirers of his talent, because it contains all of his theoretical and practical culinary works.

Not everyone knows that V.V. Pokhlebkin is an international historian by profession and education, a specialist in the foreign policy of the countries of Central and Northern Europe. In 1949 he graduated from the Moscow State Institute of International Relations of the USSR Ministry of Foreign Affairs, in 1956-1961 he was the editor-in-chief of the international periodical Scandinavian Collection (Tartu, Estonia), since 1962 he collaborated with the Scandinavian magazine (London, Norwich), and in 1957-1967 For many years he worked as a senior lecturer at MGIMO and the Higher Diplomatic School of the USSR Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the historical and philological faculties of Moscow State University.

It would seem that history and cooking are incompatible things. However, a talented person is always talented in many ways, in any case, the colossal experience of Pokhlebkin as an international specialist formed the basis of his famous books on the national cuisines of the world.

Over the past three decades, V.V. Pokhlebkin remained an unsurpassed specialist in the theory, history and practice of culinary arts.

The book "Secrets of Good Cuisine", which opens our edition, was first published in 1979, in the "Eureka" series. This is a popular presentation of the main issues of the practice of culinary arts, where the technologies of all existing culinary processes, their significance and role in cooking are described in an accessible language for non-professionals. She introduces the reader to the world of culinary art, talking in a popular way about the meaning and features of the culinary craft.

The book immediately became an unusual phenomenon, as readers were already disillusioned with cookbooks that included descriptions of standard boring tricks and recipes. "Secrets of a good kitchen" turned the hackneyed idea of ​​​​cooking as an exclusively female occupation that does not require precise knowledge of theory. The book opens up the prospect for any literate person to learn how to work professionally, of course, with an interested and conscientious attitude to cook's work.

The book still enjoys unprecedented popularity, and not only in Russia. It has been translated into the national languages ​​of the republics, where they traditionally attached great importance to the preparation of delicious food and its quality. In 1982 it was published in Riga in Latvian, twice (1982 and 1987) it was published in Vilnius in Lithuanian, in 1990 in Moldavian in Chisinau. In total, this work has withstood thirteen editions in twenty years.

"Entertaining Cooking", continuing the "Secrets of Good Cooking", was released a little later, in 1983. Here Special attention given to the more prosaic, but extremely important handicraft side of cooking. The book tells about the types of hearths (furnaces, heating appliances), about the impact different types fire on the taste of products, on kitchen utensils and tools. "Entertaining Cooking" was also translated into Lithuanian, a total of six editions.

The books “Spices, flavors and food colors” and “All about spices and seasonings”, as the author believed, will help make our culinary world bright and colorful, full of taste and aroma. Note that the work of V.V. Pokhlebkin about spices gained international fame and was published five times in Leipzig in German.

The book "National Cuisines of Our Peoples" became just as popular, which included recipes national dishes peoples of Russia and the Near Abroad, indicating the original, historically established technologies for their preparation. It gives a fairly complete picture of the culinary skills of nations, ethnic groups, with their own, pronounced national cuisine.

This research was conducted for ten years both in the archives and in the field, in various regions. Perhaps that is why it aroused such serious interest among professional chefs In many foreign countries and was highly regarded by them as a practical cookbook. On the initiative of the author's foreign colleagues, the book was translated into Finnish, English, German, Croatian, Portuguese and Hungarian.

The sequel is the book "On Foreign Cuisines", which includes basic recipes for Chinese, Scottish and Finnish cuisine. The ethnographic approach taken by the author to the culinary heritage of nations helped to restore, restore the overall picture of culinary creativity, freeing it from unnecessary layers, and individual dishes from restaurant distortions made due to ignorance or ignorance.

No less interesting is the continuation of "My Kitchen" - "My Menu". Here V.V. Pokhlebkin shares his own cooking secrets. The book consists of a commented list of those dishes of world cuisine that the author especially loved and prepared for himself personally only at special, solemn moments.

The collection ends with Pokhlebkin's famous "Culinary Dictionary", written in the late 80s. This book is designed to answer all the current questions of both a professional and an amateur, including a range of international (French, Latin, Greek, German, Chinese and others) terms, concepts, dishes and methods of their preparation that have developed over the entire rich thousand-year history of world culinary practice. The dictionary creates a complete picture of the world culinary art, where Russian, Ukrainian, Tatar and other national dishes that are familiar to us occupy a worthy place. The dictionary gives brief description all the terms and products mentioned (and not mentioned) in the book and greatly facilitates the use of the publication.

Collection of works by V.V. Pokhlebkina on culinary skills combines both purely practical material for studying culinary arts and various information on the history of culinary arts in Russia and other countries (Finland, Scotland, the Scandinavian countries, China), so the publication is of interest to the widest range of readers - from experienced chefs to young housewives.

William Vasilievich himself said that the purpose of his books is to help "acquire the skills to create such food, such food, without which our life would be boring, bleak, uninspired and at the same time devoid of something of our own, individual." Good luck to you!

SECRETS OF GOOD CUISINE

Chapter 1

GREAT ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CULINARY ARTS. ALL RECIPES V.V. POKHLEBKINA

You are holding a unique book in your hands. She will become an indispensable adviser for anyone who wants to enrich their table with the most popular dishes, as well as learn how to cook not only according to the usual and boring recipes, but with the knowledge of cooking and even creatively.

The author of this wonderful book, William Vasilyevich Pokhlebkin, is no longer with us - he tragically died in March 2000. The murder of the writer was a real shock for the whole of Russia - after all, it is difficult to find a person who would not have heard about Pokhlebkin's wonderful culinary recipes or did not use his wise advice. Now gourmets have only his cookbooks left. This edition is an invaluable gift from the Master to admirers of his talent, because it contains all of his theoretical and practical culinary works.

Not everyone knows that V.V. Pokhlebkin is an international historian by profession and education, a specialist in the foreign policy of the countries of Central and Northern Europe. In 1949 he graduated from the Moscow State Institute of International Relations of the USSR Ministry of Foreign Affairs, in 1956-1961 he was the editor-in-chief of the international periodical Scandinavian Collection (Tartu, Estonia), since 1962 he collaborated with the Scandinavian magazine (London, Norwich), and in 1957-1967 For many years he worked as a senior lecturer at MGIMO and the Higher Diplomatic School of the USSR Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the historical and philological faculties of Moscow State University.

It would seem that history and cooking are incompatible things. However, a talented person is always talented in many ways, in any case, the colossal experience of Pokhlebkin as an international specialist formed the basis of his famous books on the national cuisines of the world.

Over the past three decades, V.V. Pokhlebkin remained an unsurpassed specialist in the theory, history and practice of culinary arts.

The book "Secrets of Good Cuisine", which opens our edition, was first published in 1979, in the "Eureka" series. This is a popular presentation of the main issues of the practice of culinary arts, where the technologies of all existing culinary processes, their significance and role in cooking are described in an accessible language for non-professionals. She introduces the reader to the world of culinary art, talking in a popular way about the meaning and features of the culinary craft.

The book immediately became an unusual phenomenon, as readers were already disillusioned with cookbooks that included descriptions of standard boring tricks and recipes. "Secrets of a good kitchen" turned the hackneyed idea of ​​​​cooking as an exclusively female occupation that does not require precise knowledge of theory. The book opens up the prospect for any literate person to learn how to work professionally, of course, with an interested and conscientious attitude to cook's work.

The book still enjoys unprecedented popularity, and not only in Russia. It has been translated into the national languages ​​of the republics, where they traditionally attached great importance to the preparation of delicious food and its quality. In 1982 it was published in Riga in Latvian, twice (1982 and 1987) it was published in Vilnius in Lithuanian, in 1990 in Moldavian in Chisinau. In total, this work has withstood thirteen editions in twenty years.

"Entertaining Cooking", continuing the "Secrets of Good Cooking", was released a little later, in 1983. Here, special attention is paid to the more prosaic, but extremely important handicraft side of cooking. The book tells about the types of hearths (stoves, heating appliances), about the impact of different types of fire on the taste of food, about kitchen utensils and tools. "Entertaining Cooking" was also translated into Lithuanian, a total of six editions.

The books “Spices, flavors and food colors” and “All about spices and seasonings”, as the author believed, will help make our culinary world bright and colorful, full of taste and aroma. Note that the work of V.V. Pokhlebkin about spices gained international fame and was published five times in Leipzig in German.

The book “National Cuisines of Our Peoples” became just as popular, which included recipes for national dishes of the peoples of Russia and the Near Abroad, indicating the original, historically established technologies for their preparation. It gives a fairly complete picture of the culinary skills of nations, ethnic groups that have their own, pronounced national cuisine.

This research work was carried out for ten years both in the archives and in the field, in various regions. Perhaps that is why it aroused such serious interest among professional cooks in many foreign countries and was highly appreciated by them as a practical cookbook. On the initiative of the author's foreign colleagues, the book was translated into Finnish, English, German, Croatian, Portuguese and Hungarian.

GREAT ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CULINARY ARTS.

ALL RECIPES V.V. POKHLEBKINA

You are holding a unique book in your hands. She will become an indispensable adviser for anyone who wants to enrich their table with the most popular dishes, as well as learn how to cook not only according to the usual and boring recipes, but with the knowledge of cooking and even creatively.

The author of this wonderful book, William Vasilyevich Pokhlebkin, is no longer with us - he tragically died in March 2000. The murder of the writer was a real shock for the whole of Russia - after all, it is difficult to find a person who would not have heard about Pokhlebkin's wonderful culinary recipes or did not use his wise advice. Now gourmets have only his cookbooks left. This edition is an invaluable gift from the Master to admirers of his talent, because it contains all of his theoretical and practical culinary works.

Not everyone knows that V.V. Pokhlebkin is an international historian by profession and education, a specialist in the foreign policy of the countries of Central and Northern Europe. In 1949 he graduated from the Moscow State Institute of International Relations of the USSR Ministry of Foreign Affairs, in 1956-1961 he was the editor-in-chief of the international periodical Scandinavian Collection (Tartu, Estonia), since 1962 he collaborated with the Scandinavian magazine (London, Norwich), and in 1957-1967 For many years he worked as a senior lecturer at MGIMO and the Higher Diplomatic School of the USSR Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the historical and philological faculties of Moscow State University.

It would seem that history and cooking are incompatible things. However, a talented person is always talented in many ways, in any case, the colossal experience of Pokhlebkin as an international specialist formed the basis of his famous books on the national cuisines of the world.

Over the past three decades, V.V. Pokhlebkin remained an unsurpassed specialist in the theory, history and practice of culinary arts.

The book "Secrets of Good Cuisine", which opens our edition, was first published in 1979, in the "Eureka" series. This is a popular presentation of the main issues of the practice of culinary arts, where the technologies of all existing culinary processes, their significance and role in cooking are described in an accessible language for non-professionals. She introduces the reader to the world of culinary art, talking in a popular way about the meaning and features of the culinary craft.

The book immediately became an unusual phenomenon, as readers were already disillusioned with cookbooks that included descriptions of standard boring tricks and recipes. "Secrets of a good kitchen" turned the hackneyed idea of ​​​​cooking as an exclusively female occupation that does not require precise knowledge of theory. The book opens up the prospect for any literate person to learn how to work professionally, of course, with an interested and conscientious attitude to cook's work.

The book still enjoys unprecedented popularity, and not only in Russia. It has been translated into the national languages ​​of the republics, where they traditionally attached great importance to the preparation of delicious food and its quality. In 1982 it was published in Riga in Latvian, twice (1982 and 1987) it was published in Vilnius in Lithuanian, in 1990 in Moldavian in Chisinau. In total, this work has withstood thirteen editions in twenty years.

"Entertaining Cooking", continuing the "Secrets of Good Cooking", was released a little later, in 1983. Here, special attention is paid to the more prosaic, but extremely important handicraft side of cooking. The book tells about the types of hearths (stoves, heating appliances), about the impact of different types of fire on the taste of food, about kitchen utensils and tools. "Entertaining Cooking" was also translated into Lithuanian, a total of six editions.

The books “Spices, flavors and food colors” and “All about spices and seasonings”, as the author believed, will help make our culinary world bright and colorful, full of taste and aroma. Note that the work of V.V. Pokhlebkin about spices gained international fame and was published five times in Leipzig in German.

The book “National Cuisines of Our Peoples” became just as popular, which included recipes for national dishes of the peoples of Russia and the Near Abroad, indicating the original, historically established technologies for their preparation. It gives a fairly complete picture of the culinary skills of nations, ethnic groups that have their own, pronounced national cuisine.

This research work was carried out for ten years both in the archives and in the field, in various regions. Perhaps that is why it aroused such serious interest among professional cooks in many foreign countries and was highly appreciated by them as a practical cookbook. On the initiative of the author's foreign colleagues, the book was translated into Finnish, English, German, Croatian, Portuguese and Hungarian.

The sequel is the book "On Foreign Cuisines", which includes basic recipes for Chinese, Scottish and Finnish cuisine. The ethnographic approach taken by the author to the culinary heritage of nations helped to restore, restore the overall picture of culinary creativity, freeing it from unnecessary layers, and individual dishes from restaurant distortions made due to ignorance or ignorance.

No less interesting is the continuation of "My Kitchen" - "My Menu". Here V.V. Pokhlebkin shares his own cooking secrets. The book consists of a commented list of those dishes of world cuisine that the author especially loved and prepared for himself personally only at special, solemn moments.

The collection ends with Pokhlebkin's famous "Culinary Dictionary", written in the late 80s. This book is designed to answer all the current questions of both a professional and an amateur, including a range of international (French, Latin, Greek, German, Chinese and others) terms, concepts, dishes and methods of their preparation that have developed over the entire rich thousand-year history of world culinary practice. The dictionary creates a complete picture of the world culinary art, where Russian, Ukrainian, Tatar and other national dishes that are familiar to us occupy a worthy place. "Dictionary" gives a brief description of all the terms and products mentioned (and not mentioned) in the book and greatly facilitates the use of the publication.

Collection of works by V.V. Pokhlebkina on culinary skills combines both purely practical material for studying culinary arts and various information on the history of culinary arts in Russia and other countries (Finland, Scotland, the Scandinavian countries, China), so the publication is of interest to the widest range of readers - from experienced chefs to young housewives.

William Vasilievich himself said that the purpose of his books is to help "acquire the skills to create such food, such food, without which our life would be boring, bleak, uninspired and at the same time devoid of something of our own, individual." Good luck to you!

SECRETS OF GOOD CUISINE

Chapter 1

Why do so many young people have no desire to cook food: not at work (being a cook), not at home, for themselves? The reasons put forward are different, but all of them, in essence, come down to one thing - to the unwillingness to do what, in fact, you have no idea about. For one, the kitchen is a very unprestigious occupation, for another - too prosaic, for the third - tedious and difficult, for the fourth - waste time, for the fifth - trifling, which has nothing to learn. But none of these five really knows what the art and mystery of cooking is, what laws govern cooking and what a real cook should be.

When recruiting for a geographical expedition, young people were asked the question: do you know how to cook on your own? Many answered in the affirmative. And when they were asked to clarify what they can do, it turned out: boil water, boil vermicelli, fry sausages, heat canned food, cook soup from concentrates. And the most amazing thing is that none of them joked. They sincerely believed that this was the ability to cook. In confirmation, they referred to the fact that at home, in normal, non-camping conditions, they cook exclusively from ... ready-made semi-finished products. And from what else? This, of course, does not require any knowledge, much less talent. But the results of such preparation are mediocre and tasteless.

Fundamentals of Culinary Arts

Chapter:
V.V. Pokhlebkin " Cooking art and cook butts "
1st-1st page of the section

SECRETS OF GOOD CUISINE
Introduction

The first book in the culinary series "Cooking Art and Cooking Butts" includes works written in different time and for various reasons, but in the aggregate they turned out to be sufficient to characterize, build and teach the whole range of questions that inevitably arise and which any person who wants to become for himself personally or by virtue of his chosen profession must be able to solve - a competent, competent, knowledgeable culinary specialist.

The first part - "SECRETS OF GOOD CUISINE"- generally introduces the reader to the world of culinary art, popularly talks about the meaning and features of culinary work, and then acquaints him on a good professional level with the main technological conditions of cook work, with techniques, methods of cold and hot processing food products.

The second part - "ENTERTAINING COOKING"- continues the reader's acquaintance with the culinary craft, drawing attention to the more prosaic, but extremely important, indispensable artisan side of cooking. She talks about the types of hearths (various stoves, heating appliances), the effect of different types of fire on the taste of food, kitchen utensils, tools, etc. In other words, here we are talking about what everyone, coming to the kitchen, sees first of all and what is a prerequisite for cooking, but is usually not the responsibility of the cook, but his assistants - support staff in the kitchen, or the chef's team . This is usually where they start teaching. cooking those who decide to do it. After all, this is logical: first I will show you how your workplace, how and for what - certain appliances (utensils), tools (knives, tongs, skimmers, graters, beaters, etc.) are used, and only then I will tell about the products and only then will I allow them to the stove and, maybe , I'll show you some of the secrets of cooking. But that's about a year old in ... five or six.

Such was the traditional method of teaching cooking for centuries, and, in the sense of consistency, it was adopted after the revolution, in the Soviet state system training, where only the draconian training period adopted in tsarist Russia, - from six (maximum) years to two years (maximum) and six months (minimum).

However, the accepted principle itself - from the simplest and most visible to the most complex and wise - true in any science, turned out to be unacceptable, reactionary in teaching culinary skills, which is not a pure science, but at the same time a craft, an art, and compositional creativity, and besides It turns out to be truly possible under the condition of possessing great theoretical knowledge and practical experience. With the individual, "piece" education of masters through strict selection, it was possible to prepare only a few by the old method of training. good craftsmen. But on the other hand, hundreds and thousands of potential culinary specialists went to the dump, to the "garbage".

Not everyone, even those who really wanted to become a great cook, had the patience to take out the kitchen bucket and clean the burnt pans for two or three years, getting slapped on the back of the head for this, and not to learn, being in the kitchen every day, how to cook a simple soup! People who tried to independently skip the prescribed steps of education were ruthlessly expelled.

And this was the main reason why any talented, independently thinking and skillful people did not go to culinary technical schools and schools, or, having come, they did not linger in them. They frightened off the very first days, weeks, months of inert, unpromising training.

If the teachers themselves, or the master chefs, could not tell anything about the essence of the culinary art, then its ultimate goal could be, in the eyes of any person, either the possibility of easy money, the acquisition of wealth without much difficulty, through systematic theft, or simply cooking , cooking.

As a result, the Soviet system of culinary education degenerated into a mass replication of standard cooks and into the training of a small group of more efficient and sharper "chefs" for restaurants, the main aspect of whose culinary activity was the systematic theft of valuable gastronomic products. There was simply no time or space left for creative activity at the stove, and no preconditions were created through culinary-literate, scientific training.

That is why the very change in the order of presentation of culinary material by the author was met with sharp hostility in the administrative and professional environment. It took a four-year struggle to publish The Secrets of Good Cuisine, which began education not from its boring, but from its most important and essential side. But on the other hand, “Entertaining Cooking” quite easily followed her, appreciated by readers, where already in in the usual way as if the traditional order of training was repeated: it was first about the primary processing of products, then about cold, then about hot and, finally, about special processing - various media, additional, auxiliary coatings, etc. etc.

In a word, a situation was finally reached when the reader saw before him the whole diverse picture of the culinary craft in its entirety and at the same time already understood the meaning of all processes, he himself understood well what was the main, essential, what was additional, secondary in all culinary production.

Only after that it was possible to proceed to the presentation of material about certain types of products and certain types of dishes (snacks, pickles, salads, fish, meat, vegetables and dishes from them). Only when a person knows and owns the general principles of culinary technology, he can treat with great understanding the application of these principles to different types of food raw materials. He will clearly see that in most cases it is ultimately decisive for the processing of any product. correct application principles of technological processing. In this case, significant culinary errors do not occur. At the same time, a trained, culinary literate person will notice that in relation to individual products, such processing features are adopted that are aimed at improving the taste of the dish prepared from them, and without which this improvement will not happen.

Consequently, against the general background, these details in the application of culinary techniques will be more noticeable, will be better remembered and practically assimilated, and most importantly, any student will easily understand that this or that new technique related to any product is additional, not basic. This extremely important and extremely significant circumstance is not taken into account by those compilers of cookbooks who themselves are not their authors, but compile from other people's books or, being only narrow practical cooks, trained and know only some isolated culinary process, because in modern large kitchens, chefs work like on a conveyor belt, they have some kind of narrow technique.

It is from here that cookbooks such as "Meat Dishes", "Vegetable Dishes", "Mushroom Dishes" and even "Potato Dishes" appear, which are simply worthless in practical terms, but simply harmful in scientific and culinary terms, because they they confuse the reader, create for him, instead of a whole and clear, a motley and vague picture of culinary processes, forcing him to think that a small detail, a private reception is more important than the main thing, hiding the essence from him and accustoming him to be a slave to the recipe, and not a free creator at the stove.

The only purpose of such books is to increase the volume of culinary literature, to force the reader to buy a dozen practically unnecessary books, instead of one efficient one. At the same time, it is very characteristic that in such books the main place is occupied by colorful, catchy illustrations, they contain a minimum of text, because those who compose them have nothing to say in essence, since the explanation of particulars specific to any specific product, such as meat or mushrooms, takes much less space than an explanation of the basic processes that apply to all products in general.

That is why these books are filled with hackneyed truths, repeat the same thing and, as a result, are openly charlatan in nature, because their main goal is far from being to teach people how to properly prepare tasty food.

The main thing: to make the reader fork out once again - that's what is put at the forefront. Another purpose of such books is to serve as a means of prestige for rich but uncultured buyers: books are bright, polished, it is pleasant to look at them, but, decorating expensive shelves, they are not intended to be opened in the kitchen.

Offering a variety and originality of the names of dishes, they cannot deviate one iota from the composition prescribed in advance by the chosen topic. The originality and originality of each dish is usually ensured by the use in different dishes and in culinary products of such insignificant additional components as spices, seasonings and some spices, designed to vary the taste, smell, texture of the same five or six basic foodstuffs, the same for everything. humanity: meat, fish, vegetables, fruits and mushrooms, plus used by absolutely everyone - grains (flour) either in the form of bread or cereals, or pasta.

It is spices and seasonings that make our culinary world bright and colorful, full of taste and aroma. That's why the book "Cookery" includes detailed work the author “All About Spices”, as well as the monograph “Seasonings”, which was published as a separate book, and a chapter-section specially written for this edition only on spices, flavorings and food colorings. - See pages: This part of the book gives professionals and especially home cooks the opportunity to acquire the knowledge that will help them become first-class craftsmen, complete their culinary education and broaden your general horizons. And most importantly - to acquire the skills to create such food, such food, without which our life would be boring, joyless, uninspired and at the same time devoid of something purely our own, individual.

WHAT IS THIS BOOK ABOUT AND WHY?

- What is food?
- Weird question! Everyone knows this!
- And yet?
- Well, what we eat. Food, in a word.
- What if it's wider? At least from the point of view of its place in our or common human life?
- ???
- You see. It's a difficult question. In any case, it's not that simple. And they, really, should not be neglected, should not be dismissed from him.

Food. We rarely use this short word. And even less often do we write it or see it written. It's painfully mundane. Some people even find it rude. But we still think about food often, more precisely, all our lives, although not every minute, but only when we get hungry. However, the property of human nature is such that we obey our brain more than our stomach. We even know how to disobey his orders. This is why we are sometimes embarrassed to talk about food and think about it more than it deserves. "Do not make a cult out of food!" - this slogan, ironically sounded on the lips of Ostap Bender, is taken quite seriously by most people.

For a long time, we had a fairly common belief that talking (writing, thinking, remembering) about food is pure philistinism. At the same time, it was forgotten that philistinism lies in how, on what occasion and what to say, and not in the very concept of “food”. After all, we must not forget that to eat means to live, means to work, means to build, create, think.

Food, if you look at it seriously, historically, is one of the most important conditions for human existence, perhaps the most important thing. Food is among the conditions of the material life of society, along with housing, clothing, geographical environment. It is also important that food is the result of a significant part of the labor that society expends.

And therefore, society should not be at all indifferent to what the result will be, what its quality is, where, in other words, the work of society will go. Moreover, food is a type of labor that goes directly to the reproduction of new labor.

If the labor, say, invested in the production of furniture, remains in this furniture, then the labor invested in the production of products and in the preparation of food from these products is immediately revived, reproduced in the new, sometimes even more powerful, better labor of the worker.

So food is not only our narrow personal matter, but also a public one. It is on the basis of this situation that in society such great attention given to healthy and rational nutrition. But on the other hand, that is why every conscious member of society should understand issues related to food.

Of course, one cannot overestimate the importance of food, as did some thinkers, even materialist philosophers who fought against reactionary idealistic philosophy. The Dutch philosopher Moleschott, for example, believed that "man is what he eats." This is, of course, an extreme exaggeration. But to a certain extent this position is true, it is only necessary to correctly understand and interpret it: in the sense that one should eat sensibly, correctly, and not in the sense that the one who eats poorly is stupid, and the one who eats luxuriously is smart. But this is precisely how Moleschotte's views were falsely vulgarized and distorted by his opponents, the idealists, although practice refuted their interpretation.

“An animal is satiated, a person eats, an intelligent person knows how to eat,” said another well-known physiologist, Brillat-Savarin. And that's right. “Be able to eat”, “be able to eat”, oddly enough, few people know how. And yet it is necessary for everyone. "Knowing how to eat" does not mean owning cutlery or not eating with your hands. “To be able to eat” means to eat properly, not necessarily exquisitely and plentifully (this is also wrong), but moderately, satisfyingly and at a certain time.

Since food is, figuratively speaking, the fuel on which our body works, then understanding this “fuel”, knowing about it is not philistine, but competent, modern, scientifically important for each of us, and especially for a young person.

But why exactly for the young?

Yes, simply because by the end of life it will be too late to take care of it. Although this usually happens most often: when a person can no longer eat both, and the other, and the third, when it turns out that almost half of the food is harmful to him, he suddenly begins to become intensely interested in nutrition. But then this already has a purely academic, and by no means practical, interest for him. He has to talk more about food than use it.

Reasoning is one thing. Really understanding food is another thing. To be able to cook it, and even according to all the rules, is the third. Usually this “third” turns out to be, unfortunately, a “secret with seven seals” for many who would not mind tasting delicious meals. Moreover, the inability to cook, or to turn raw foods into tasty and healthy food, creates a lot of different everyday, everyday problems, which, precisely because they at first seem to us small, insignificant, do not noteworthy, gradually or sometimes suddenly turn into large, sometimes insoluble problems that break our way of life, "exploding" family relationships interfering normal operation, rest, study. More than half of the divorces occur in families where the wife could not home cooking food. Almost 65 percent of the young husbands surveyed, listing the virtues of an ideal wife, named the ability to cook food well among the first. These facts speak for themselves.

But does everyone have to cook when there is catering?

Need to. And how!

Of course, our catering network grew every day until 1985, and although in 1980 about 20 million seats were created in the country in restaurants, cafes, canteens, tea houses, buffets, still only 120 could dine outside the home during the day. million people, but the remaining 140-150 million still ate at home.

Despite the fact that after 1991 the situation in the country changed radically - both socially and demographically (the population of Russia decreased to 145 million), but in terms of the situation on the "food front" it not only did not improve, but became even more tense, because the quality of food in public catering has deteriorated and the price has risen sharply, and besides, the former system of canteens has practically collapsed. True, in major cities- Moscow, St. Petersburg - numerous points of "fast food" of the standard Western type have appeared, but they absolutely cannot provide constant normal food. These are typically temporary establishments designed for episodic satisfaction of hunger. Eating there all the time is both expensive, and harmful, and disgusting. Monotonous food does not give pleasure, it becomes boring.

So there is simply no need to break our home, it is irrational, pointless, and premature. He will still serve us. In addition, there are always and will be many more such situations in life in which no public catering will help out and when the ability to quickly, correctly and tasty cook food for yourself and your loved ones turns out to be a boon, valuable acquisition, "treasure" on the path of life.

"In a healthy body healthy mind!" - said the ancient Greeks and Romans. This means, translated into modern language that our mood, our productivity are directly dependent on proper nutrition and rest. It's not about the amount of food, but about the ability to use it correctly. A young man who has grown fat too early or a girl who has grown too fat is not only candidates for early disability, but also a burden to themselves. And this is the result of most often improper nutrition since childhood.

Therefore, home eating is not only important, but also not such an easy task. It inevitably requires certain knowledge, skills, significant culture in order to be at the height of the requirements that modern life puts forward.

But in order for these tasks to be solved properly high level, knowledge is needed that is scientifically substantiated, proven by historical experience, rational and accurate. Otherwise, a not so rare paradoxical situation is created that a young specialist, armed with modern technical knowledge, versed in the most complex issues of his narrow profession, turns out to be an inveterate ignoramus in everyday life, listening to any nonsense uttered by old women or acquaintances on nutrition and education. And, even worse, sometimes blindly follows various newfangled rumors and advice about a dry diet, vegetarianism, a raw food diet, etc.

Having no solid knowledge in this area and not being able to critically understand, such a young man follows any new “theory” and changes them according to fashion, like clothes. The results are often deplorable, but they are not discovered immediately, but after many years, when it is too late to correct something in spoiled health.

That is why the task of this book is to give the basics of knowledge about nutrition and cooking at the modern level, and most importantly, to instill a taste for such knowledge, to see something important, new in them, to make you look at the kitchen, as well as at the profession of a cook or confectioner with different eyes.

There are almost no recipes in this book - it is by no means a cookbook, not a cookbook. Its goal is to teach cooking, not by memorizing recipes, but based on the specific possibilities at every moment. And one more goal - to teach to create at the stove, to find joy and pleasure in it.

Anyone who carefully and seriously read this book will be able to learn how to skillfully, truly cook delicious food for themselves, their family, their friends under any conditions, in any environment, with any composition of products.

The purpose of this book is, first of all, to teach to understand how to cook, how to make food, to teach not to get lost in front of any food raw materials, in front of any kitchen hearth and tool, in front of any cooking conditions on fire and without it, with water and without water, with oil and without oil, with utensils and without any utensils at all...

Thus, this is not a cookery textbook at all, designed for standard conditions. This is not a cookbook either, because there will be no strictly defined recipes that limit opportunities and initiative with their grams. It is rather a guide to the basic technological techniques and secrets of the kitchen, a good adviser, helping to understand the meaning of the main cooking methods.

This book is like a key to culinary "magic", a key that opens only the first, but the most important, central, most cherished "door" to the culinary art. True, this key does not lend itself to everyone, and in order to turn it, one must make certain efforts ...

But more on that in the next

GREAT ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CULINARY ARTS

V. V. Pokhlebkin

World fame Pokhlebkin brought a passion that has become a matter of life - the study of culinary arts. Peru, a scientist and writer, owns more than 50 books, their total circulation worldwide is approaching one hundred million copies.

Among the most famous works Pokhlebkina can be called "Culinary Dictionary", "History of the most important foodstuffs". His encyclopedic knowledge is evidenced by the "Dictionary of International Symbols and Emblems", "The History of Vodka", "The Great Pseudonym", "The State System of Iceland", several volumes " foreign policy Rus', Russia, USSR for 1000 years". In 1993, William Pokhlebkin became the winner of the Lange Ceretto Prize, awarded by an international jury of culinary experts in England, France, Germany and Italy for books on the history of food.
Content:

All about spices
The book is about spices. The reader will learn about their origin, about the fascinating history of the search for spices.
The author gives a classification of spicy plants, introduces the properties, quality, meaning, application, norms and rules of use certain types spices, gives examples of their combination with food and with each other.
The book will teach you how to properly use commercially available spices, introduce you to the spicy plants of our country.
The appendix to the book are recipes for cooking dishes with spices.

Entertaining cooking
In the book of V.V. Pokhlebkin, an internationally recognized specialist in the history, theory and practice of culinary arts, tells about unusual ways cooking and the amazing properties of famous products, about a convenient device home cooking and the hearth for cooking, about the essence of the processes occurring during the preparation of dishes. Use the advice of a famous culinary specialist and you will get real pleasure in cooking and new taste sensations from familiar dishes!

History of vodka
"History of vodka" is not an entertaining "history of drunkenness". Where did vodka first appear? This issue acquired state significance when the West suddenly came out with a denial of Russia's priority. A study by V.V. Pokhlebkin convincingly proves: “Only vodka from Russia is real Russian vodka!”
Kashi

My kitchen and my menu
The world-famous culinary specialist V. V. Pokhlebkin invites readers to get acquainted with the principles of cooking and recipes for original soups, meat and fish dishes, side dishes for them and unique desserts created by the author himself impromptu, without following a specific, prescribed technology.

National cuisines of our peoples
The book of the famous culinary author V. V. Pokhlebkin will acquaint readers with the history of the national cuisines of the peoples of our country, with a detailed description, features, technological methods of each of them. The main content is recipes for cooking national dishes.

Secrets of good cuisine
This book is not a collection of recipes, but a fascinating story about a profession that everyone should own. Readers will learn about various types cooking, big and small secrets of the culinary arts, will find practical advice. All this will help young families not only cook tasty and fast, but also enjoy this process.

Tea
Tea has long been celebrated as a healing drink. It stimulates the vital activity of the body, eliminates fatigue, enhances efficiency. In this book you will find answers to all your questions about tea - the oldest and most widespread drink on earth.

NATIONAL CUISINES OF OUR PEOPLES

HOW TO USE THE RECIPES

Russian and Soviet cuisines, Ukrainian cuisine, Belarusian cuisine, Moldavian cuisine
A collection of individual recipes for national dishes, no matter how many there may be, does not, however, give a complete picture of a particular cuisine until its technological features are summarized. After all, the main differences between national cuisines are not in what or from what they cook, but in how, in what way they cook, with what methods, at what time, at what temperature, in what environment, in what utensils. It is these details, these technological "little things" that are the main ones for the formation of the taste, texture and aroma of the dish. That is why it is extremely important, when reading the recipes of national dishes, to pay the main attention to the description of the preparation of products and the technology of their preparation, to the special national methods and techniques of culinary processing, which are often more important conditions for success than the composition of the products.

Each chapter of the section consists of an introductory part, briefly outlining the history and general features of a particular national cuisine, and of recipes, which in most cases are preceded by an introductory word about the specifics of cooking any group of dishes as a whole. When it comes to a cuisine that is little known to the general public or insufficiently studied, it is usually given more attention in the introductory part, where its historical, ethnographic and technological features are analyzed in detail. In the same place, where it is told about the well-known, researched cuisine, the main attention is paid to the generalization of its features and complex characteristics. Finally, where the main characteristics of the dishes are stated in the introductory word, as, for example, in the chapter "Russian and Soviet Cuisine", the introductory part is devoted to national cuisine in general, a description of the process of historical development of this cuisine.

Dishes in the recipe part are grouped according to the principle of serving to the table: first, second, dessert. But within each group they are subdivided according to the types of products: meat, fish, flour, etc. This arrangement helps to better navigate the material of the book. In addition, to facilitate the use of the book, it is provided with an alphabetical subject index.

Before using the recipes, it is advisable, of course, to familiarize yourself with the introductory part of the corresponding chapter and - necessarily - with an introductory word to a particular group of dishes. It should be noted that the introductory word sets out the basic principles, rules and techniques (methods) for preparing this type of dish, for example, cabbage soup, pancakes, pilaf, dumplings, etc., and then a whole nest of specific recipes is given (usually there are several) indicating food standards and cooking procedures. Only the bare minimum is left in the recipes. necessary information, the main attention is paid to the order of bookmarking products. At the same time, they indicate the type of dishes used in each case (if this is essential for the formation of the taste of the dish), the nature of the fire (weak, moderate, strong), and the duration of the preparation of the dish, both general and individual operations.

In a number of cases, especially when it comes to little-known dishes, the most detailed recipe is given, with a clear division of all operations. Sometimes housewives, having seen and not even read such a long recipe, consider it too complicated and look for shorter recipes. However, one should be wary of just too short recipes.

All recipes are designed, as a rule, for 4 servings. The number of products is given in two dimensions: in weight and volume - depending on what is more convenient for the hostess in each specific case(with the exception of recipes for some confectionery and flour products, where an exact weight ratio of all components is necessary).

Vegetables, as a rule, are given in pieces or shares of tubers, roots, bulbs or heads, and are usually of medium size.

Spices in most cases are indicated in unground form - in grains, buds, stamens, leaves. However, before laying in soups or main dishes, pepper grains and other whole spices are recommended to be crushed without turning them into powder at the same time. Most often, the minimum norm of spices, indispensable for preserving the national flavor of the dish, is indicated, which can be increased to taste.

As for salt, the amount of salt needed to give the dish a general taste is usually not indicated in recipes, since it depends solely on individual characteristics every person's taste. Precise indications of the salt rate are given only in those recipes where salt is necessary during the preparation of the dish and is associated with the specifics of individual dishes. Such specific indications for the dosage of salt are not related to creating the taste of the dish - it still needs to be added to taste. However, it should be remembered general rule that meat is best salted after it is cooked or fried at least half. All dishes from legumes (peas, lentils, beans, mung bean) are salted only after final readiness, best of all immediately before use.

Even those dishes in which the composition of the products does not dictate a strictly defined time for adding salt, it is still better to add salt only at the end of cooking. This is especially true for soups and stews. An exception to this rule is fish: when cooking raw fish put in already salted and boiling water or other medium, and when frying, salt before putting it in a pan.

In a number of recipes there are special instructions for a particular type of utensil for cooking. However, one should keep in mind some general principles. First, the dishes, which include acid environments (lemon juice, sour cabbage, tomatoes, sour milk, etc.), you need to cook in non-oxidizing dishes, i.e. in enamel, porcelain, faience, earthenware, glass. Soups are also best cooked in non-oxidizing dishes, regardless of the composition of the products. Fry food in fats and oils should be in a cauldron metal utensils with thick walls and bottom or in pans. It is best to bake, especially fish, mushroom and vegetable dishes, in non-oxidizing (enamelled) pans or in foil (as well as on foil, uncoated on top).

The type of hearth also has great importance For proper cooking national dishes. The Russian stove, the Transcaucasian and Central Asian tandoor or tyndyr (tanur, tonir), the Moldavian gratar, the Azerbaijani brazier make it possible to obtain dishes of different texture and taste from the same products (say, meat), since the dishes created by these types of hearths are different. temperature conditions and pressure is caused by far from the same physical, chemical and biochemical processes in products.

However, the use of such types of foci is possible only under certain conditions or in specialized institutions. Catering(national restaurants). In most cases, especially in urban areas, they use a European stove (wood, gas or electric) with two types of thermal conditions - a stove fire and an oven (oven). In this case, most often used stove fire. Given this circumstance, the book presents mainly such national dishes that can be cooked on the stove. The same dishes that are usually cooked in other types of hearths are recommended to be cooked in the oven, and in some cases it can be used as an open fire such as a barbecue or tandoor, in others - as a thermal atmosphere such as a Russian oven. To this end, in the first case, unprotected meat should be placed directly on the oven grate, as high as possible above the fire, and at the same time create an initial high temperature for a short time; in the second case, the products should be placed in tightly closed earthenware or cast-iron dishes with thick walls and placed on the lower stage of the oven closer to the fire, making it moderate at the same time and keeping the dish at this temperature for a long time. Finally, in urban conditions, even baking in ashes can be imitated by using food foil as a shell for food and placing foodstuffs (potatoes, vegetables, meat, fish) tightly wrapped in it into the oven. For languishing, you can use the “Parenka” electric pot-tihovarka of the Sverdlovsk NPO “Mashinostroitelny Zavod im. M.I. Kalinin, which imitates the heating of a Russian stove. Thus, with the right combination of different types of fire, dishes and modern kitchen equipment (pressure cooker, slow cooker, electric grill, manti-kaskan, water bath, steam bath and others) in urban conditions, you can cook over 90% of the national dishes of the peoples of Russia and the near abroad.

cold soups

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hot soups

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Main dishes

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Boiled meat dishes

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Offal dishes (baked)

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Grilled Meat Dishes

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Explosions to the roast

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Game

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Marinades for game

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Fish dishes

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Telnoe

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Fish baked and fried

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mushroom dishes

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Kashi

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Pancakes

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