Types of fires and what they are intended for. Long-burning taiga fire “Nodya”. Safe night fire

No camping trip would be complete without a fire, whether for warmth, for cooking, or simply to create a special atmosphere. If you have never lit a fire before, then this process may seem a little complicated to you. However, the key to success lies in the use suitable materials and understanding the purpose of the fire, so that you can make a fire in the most suitable way for you.

Steps

Preparing to make a fire

Prepare ignition material. To effectively start a fire, you will need ignition material - fine flammable material, which is the easiest to ignite. The material used must be dry, so it is best to take it with you from home rather than look for it locally in the forest. For ignition you can take various materials, for example, any of the following:

sawdust;
crumpled paper;
cardboard;
paraffin;
cotton fiber;
ready-made purchased material for ignition.

Collect brushwood. In order for the fire to flare up and not go out, you will need to supplement the lighting material with brushwood. Brushwood is a larger combustible material, but not as large as firewood, so the flame transfers well to it. Look around your camp site for small twigs and branches.
- Choose twigs and branches with a diameter of about 3-13 mm or about the thickness of a pencil.
- As with lighting material, the brushwood must be dry. If there are damp areas on the branches you collected, cut them off with a pocketknife.
Collect firewood. For a fire that needs to burn for a long time, large pieces of wood, or firewood, are needed. Branches with a diameter of 3 to 13 cm in diameter or larger logs, chopped into smaller pieces with an ax, can be used as firewood.
- You should not use live trees for firewood, otherwise you will harm the environment. Use dead and fallen branches and trees as firewood.
- Suitable firewood should break easily. This will indicate that they are dry enough to use in the fire.
- The firewood should not be too large, as it will be more difficult for it to start the fire.
- If you are unsure whether the firewood you find is the right size for your fire, compare the wood to your wrist or forearm. They should be approximately the same size.
Take a lighter or matches. When all the materials for the fire are prepared, you will need to light the flame. Therefore, it is very important not to forget to take with you something suitable for this purpose. Regular matches will suffice, but you may find it more convenient to use a lighter.

Add brushwood and wood to the fire as needed. While the fire is burning, you can continue to throw brushwood into it to keep the fire going. If the fire doesn't burn as hot as you would like, you can add wood to it to help it burn hotter. Start with one log. Add additional logs only if the fire does not gain enough power after the first log.
- A hut-type fire is well suited for cooking, as it does not burn for very long, but maintains a stable combustion.

"Well" type fire

Place the brushwood in a small pyramid on top of the fire starter material. In order for a “well” type fire to flare up, it is necessary to create a pyramidal structure inside it. Place fire starter material in the center of the fireplace and stack the brushwood on top of it in a pyramid. You should definitely start with small brushwood and then lay down the larger brushwood as a second layer.
- Your pyramid structure does not need to be as large as a pyramid fire pit. Two layers of brushwood will be enough for her.
Cover the pyramid with a square of four logs. First, take the two largest logs and place them parallel to each other on opposite sides of the pyramid. Then take two smaller logs and place them on the remaining two sides, forming a square. The last two smaller logs should lie on top of the first two larger ones.
- The resulting square will have two openings at the base. One of the openings should be located on the windward side so that the wind can supply oxygen to the fire when you light the fire.
Continue laying the “well”. On top of the square of four logs, begin stacking smaller pieces of wood in the same manner. The goal is to build something similar to a well around the original pyramid.
- The process of laying firewood for a fire in this case is similar to the process of laying logs when building a wooden log house.
Cover the “well” with thin, light brushwood. When the “well” itself is ready, take thin light brushwood and place it on top of the flooring. Then take matches or a lighter and light a fire from below.
- To get the best results, it is best to light the fire from several sides at once.
- Continue adding brushwood to the fire until the walls of the “well” light up.
- A well-type fire provides a longer burn, so it is ideal for warming up near it long time.

Putting out the fire

Think about putting out the fire in advance. You are solely responsible for the fire you build, and the burning process often takes longer than you would like. To avoid leaving behind dangerous embers and to do everything correctly, you must have sufficient time at your disposal. It will take about 20 minutes to extinguish the fire, during which you can make sure that the coals are completely extinguished. When you spray the coals with water, you want to make sure that the water reaches as many of them as possible. Therefore, you need to stir the coals as you irrigate them. Be sure to reach the coals at the base of the fire pit so they don't smolder in the depths.
It is wise to take several fire sources with you on a hike. If matches or a regular lighter become damp, they will be useless. An electric lighter is a completely reliable source of fire, since it is enough to turn it over and tap it on the palm of your hand to get rid of any water that has got into it. You can also look for waterproof matches or flint in travel stores.
If you are camping at a tent camp, check the rules that apply there. In some cases, there may be certain restrictions on the construction of fires. It is in your own interests not to break the established rules.
Do not burn synthetic waste in a fire; take it with you for subsequent disposal.
Leave behind the area in better condition than it was before you. If you use an old fireplace, be sure to clear away any ashes and any surrounding debris when you leave. If you made a fire in a previously untouched place, scatter the stones of the hearth, refresh the vegetation on it and try not to leave any traces behind.

Warnings

Do not leave the fire unattended. Flames can get out of control very quickly.
Always keep a full bucket of water near the fire in case of emergency.
Do not try to contain the flame by hand. You'll just get burned.
Fire can attract curious animals. Despite the fact that the animals are unlikely to dare to approach him openly, they can watch what is happening from a hiding place. Don't leave food items out in the open, you won't realize how creative raccoons and bears can be. It is better to hang food on a tree high above the ground.

So, let's begin. One of the most important points when laying a fire is the correct

choice of fuel. You should not cut down growing trees for firewood. This, firstly, harms nature, and, secondly, green branches produce more smoke than fire. Use dried branches and dead wood as fuel.
Try to collect birch or alder firewood, as well as firewood from resinous conifers (spruce, pine).
It is not advisable to use rowan, bird cherry, larch and aspen for a fire - they provide little heat.
If you are walking through an area where there are no trees, you can light a fire from peat, grass, or dung (dried dung).

Let's light a fire

The first step is to choose a place for the fire. At the halt, the area is cleared of dry grass and flammable debris. Take measures to prevent the fire from spreading to bushes and trees. If you are going to make a fire in the snow or wet soil– do not forget to prepare a platform for it from stones or logs.
When lighting a fire important point is the choice of kindling. The faster and more steadily the kindling ignites, the more likely it is that the fire will burn quickly.
Usually used for kindling the following types kindling:

Rotten things. Even in the rain, you can cut off the wet parts and there will be dry rot inside;
Down of plants and birds;
Pieces of bark;
Dried puffball mushrooms;
Lichens and ferns;
Chips and shavings of dry wood.
The kindling is piled up like a tent or between logs. Small branches are placed on it, and then larger branches.

Little tips

The most convenient way to light a fire is with matches. In order to protect matches from moisture before going on a trip, dip each match in paraffin or wax. After drying, it is convenient to carry such matches in a sleeve closed with a stopper.
Use a reflector to direct heat in the desired direction. It could be a piece of tin or something else non-flammable material. It will also help protect the fire from the wind.
It is safer to extinguish the fire at night, but the coals can be covered with ash. Then in the morning you can dig them out and fan the fire again.
A small fire is easier to build and maintain than a large one. Several small fires located around cold weather will give more heat than one large one.

Types of fires and their purpose

The design of the fire is selected depending on what is needed in this moment- warm up, cook food, dry clothes or shoes, spend the night. It should be remembered that a fire only warms the surfaces facing it, so it would be useful to take care of reflective walls. The reflective wall not only reflects heat, but also causes smoke to rise upward. With the help of such a wall, the heating of a shelter built for an overnight stay is improved.

A small fire is easier to build and maintain than a large one. Several small fires arranged in a circle will provide more warmth in cold weather than one large one. A larger fire is made for heating, and a smaller one for cooking.

Maintaining a fire requires less effort than starting a new one. Quite often the fire has to be extinguished at night. In this case, cover the coals with ash. In the morning they will still smolder, and you can easily fan the fire.

“Hut” type fire

Bonfire type Hut. Master class by the fire with foxtravel

The simplest and most common type of fire. This type of fire is good for both cooking and providing warmth and light to the camp. Increasingly thicker logs and sticks are placed obliquely on the kindling, and a hole is left between them on the wind side. The result will be something similar to a hut. This fire is very voracious and requires constant feeding with portions of firewood; it burns hot.

"Star" type fire

Star type fire. Master class by the fire with foxtravel

An economical type of fire that requires logs from solid wood. They are laid out in the shape of a star, and as they burn, they are moved towards the center. Good for maintaining a fire for a long time without constantly adding branches. Such a fire is indispensable at night: you just need to move the logs towards the center from time to time.

Bonfire "well"

Bonfire of the Well type. Master class by the fire with foxtravel

Logs stacked in a log house are the most common and simplest type of fire. Gives a low and wide flame. Indispensable if you need to cook food in a large bowl or dry wet clothes. Firewood in which is stacked like a log hut. In the “well” the fuel burns more slowly than in the “hut”; a lot of coals are formed, which create high temperature necessary for instant cooking food and drying clothes.

Nodya type fire. Master class by the fire with foxtravel

Used for overnight stays in cold weather. It is necessary to cut down 3 dead spruce logs with a diameter of about 30 cm, up to 3 m long, and trim them on one side along the entire length. Place two logs side by side, light a highly flammable material (thin dry twigs, birch bark) in the gap between them, then place the third log on top so that their hewn surfaces face one another. The node flares up slowly, but will burn all night and does not require adjustment. Although, if necessary, the heat can be slightly adjusted by spreading or moving the lower logs.

A node can also be made from two logs placed on top of each other. In this case, in order to prevent them from falling, it is necessary to drive a pair of stakes at both ends. It is more convenient to light a log using coals from a fire, scattering them evenly over the entire upper surface of the lower log.

Bonfire with reflector

Bonfire with reflector. Master class by the fire with foxtravel

On the leeward side, two stakes are driven in with an inclination of 70-80° and several raw tree stumps 1 m long are placed horizontally on top of them to a height of 0.7-1 m. The tent is placed 1-2 m from the fire.

Safe night fire

Safe night fire. Master class by the fire with foxtravel

This type of fire is designed to keep the fire burning all night with minimal risk of logs falling out. It can be constructed with a heat reflector mounted on one side of the fire. The logs should be laid in such a way that there is not a large gap for air between them, then the flame will be low, and two logs laid obliquely at the edges will prevent the fire from spreading.

Pyramid type fire

Pyramid type fire. Master class by the fire with foxtravel

Place two logs parallel to one another, and a row of logs across - this will be the base. Place smaller logs on top and so on until there are very small ones at the top, on which you place kindling and light a fire. The fire will gradually go down. This type of fire burns for a long time and can be used as a night fire.

Polynesian fire

Polynesian fire. Master class by the fire with foxtravel

Invisible and produces a lot of coals and ash. For such a fire, a hole is dug, its walls are lined with stones (or covered with clay), and a fire is lit at the bottom. If possible, a place for it should be chosen under an overhanging rock or a dense tree crown - in this case it will be invisible not only from the sides, but also from above. A fire does not require a lot of wood. To ensure that the wood in the fire burns well and does not smoke, you need to dig another hole nearby with a narrow channel to the fire for air access.

LET YOUR FIRE BURN BRIGHT AND HOT!

You, who have been living on this planet for a long time (at least 20 years, right?), know how to lace your shoes, set up a tent, and build a fire. And you already feel like gray-haired dinosaurs, having eaten more than one bag of salt in such matters. But then a mushroom picker grandfather will come out to your clearing, glance at you from under his bushy eyebrows, and immediately realize: greenhorns. No, not because they are beardless. He just looks at your fire. And that’s it – the diagnosis is ready.

Because exactly according to type of fire one can judge the experience of the tourist. You won't cook soup from a full carcass, will you? Or make it from a parquet block? Right, each job has its own specifications, skills, tools and materials? This also applies very much to the fire. If your friend tells you that he has been on all the campaigns of the century, and at the same time makes one “pioneer” fire for cooking, and for drying things, and for heating, without skimping on firewood, according to the principle “the louder, the more musical,” this means only one thing: your friend is, to put it mildly, an incorrigible dreamer.

After all bonfire is a tool. It is different in every case. And if you learn to make fires based on your needs and capabilities, this skill will be very useful in life, and maybe even save it. Because a properly built fire will meet the stated requirements and will do the work that is assigned to it. I invite you to consider with me the most famous and effective types bonfires

Rest fires

You walk through the forest for a long time, following the route and schedule. The place to spend the night is still far away, but your legs are buzzing and your stomach will soon learn to say how hungry it is. You, all covered in cobwebs, pine needles, or just wet from the recent rain, suddenly suddenly go around the last tree, and here is a clearing where you can rest. Hooray! Down with the backpack. The organisms, suffering to sit by the fire, rushed like elk into the forest to collect twigs and branches. Halt.

Bonfire "Shalash"

If you're just going to relax burning flame, you will be quite satisfied with a “hut” type fire. It is done simply - smaller branches, and any dry plant dust is folded into a pile on the ground; above it, thicker branches and branches are placed in such a way that the upper ends converge at one point, while the lower ones are on the ground, and the middle rests on the inner pile for kindling. Such a fire produces a large and fast flame. You can warm up next to it. But it also burns out very quickly.

Hunter's Hearth

If you want to refresh yourself with sandwiches at a rest stop, then you don’t need to stuff them into yourself dry - make tea. And it’s better to boil a kettle on a fire, which we call “ hunter's hearth" We place 2 not very thick logs in parallel at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. And between them are small branches and kindling, which we light. It is very convenient to place a kettle or pot on the logs, and now you have aromatic tea that will quickly restore strength and lift your spirits.

We rested, chewed, and were on our way. Many more interesting things await you along the way, which you will discuss in the camp, when setting up tents, preparing dinner and evening gatherings around the fire. After all, here you will already build a professional fire, like experienced tourists, with all the subtleties and conventions. For example, as “kitchen”.

Cooking fires

Kitchen fire

Breed kitchen fire you start with a “hut” fire, only larger. When the fire is already well lit, place 2 dry logs in parallel on both sides of it with a distance of 10 cm from each other at one end and 20 cm at the other. It is convenient to place teapots and coffee pots on the narrow “wall”, and pots and pans on the wide one. This way you can cook several dishes at once, just like at home on a multi-burner stove. By tossing branches or raking coals, you can create different combustion temperatures: it’s like turning up the gas on a stove.

Bonfire "Trench"

But this variety bonfire very convenient in open areas in windy weather. For it, you dig a groove in the ground (see the length and width yourself) in such a way that you can hang camp boilers over it. It is recommended to dig a groove along the wind vector, with a slightly widened end towards it - this way your flame will always be “in good shape”. The walls of the trench will prevent the coals from disintegrating far, and you can regulate the bubbling in the pots by increasing or decreasing the height of the dishes above the fire.

Bonfire "Pit"

By the name you already understand that here you need to dig a hole. The bottom and lower row of walls will be properly lined with stones. This helps conserve heat, thus saving firewood, and options for using such bonfire– here you can not only boil water, but also bake, for example, potatoes in the ashes. Do you like potatoes baked in the fire? And a spit on spits installed above the pit will even help you bake fish or meat.

If on the way to your overnight stay you get caught in the rain or catch a cloud on a pass in the mountains (a common occurrence in the Carpathians), you will definitely need to dry your clothes and warm up so that your further journey is not overshadowed by a cold or in general. The following types of fires will help you with heat therapy.

Fires for heating and drying

Bonfire " "

Such bonfire very popular in the northern regions and taiga. They are usually used hunters And trappers. Meter pegs are driven into the ground in pairs. The first 2 with a distance of 10-30 cm between each other. The second pair is located in the same way, but at a distance of 1-2 meters, and maybe more, from the first. This depends on the length of the logs that you will use for the fire, by the way, as well as the distance inside a pair of pegs - on the thickness of these logs. These notorious logs need to be placed between the pegs in the form of a wall. Have you warmed up yet? That's not all! You set fire from below and create a clothes dryer for yourself. It burns for a long time, enough for everyone.

Reflector fire

In principle, technically, this is a symbiosis of the fires of Nodya and the Hunter’s Hearth, already known to you. Only Nodya is small, and acts as a reflective wall, reflecting the heat of the fire into the right side. The wall is located close to fire pit, and at an angle of 90° to the surface.

This reflective fire provides a lot of heat, which is very convenient for small companies. And being alone is simply an irreplaceable option for overnight stays in the forest. Make a second wall-reflector behind your back or behind your place of lying, and even with a small flame you will be very warm and cozy.

Bonfire "Pyramid"

The basis for this bonfire Two thick, dry logs are used, which are used here instead of the first row of firewood. On top of them, perpendicularly - in the form of lattice rods - thinner logs are placed quite tightly to each other. On them - perpendicular to the 2nd floor - lay out the third floor, etc. Rising in height, the walls gradually narrow, forming a kind of cone of square cross-section.

A type of Pyramid can be called a fire, where the outer walls are like in the Pyramid, and the inside is a fire-hut. By alternating the number of floors of the walls with wet and, you can achieve long burning without adding firewood.

Bonfire "Star"

This fire requires 5-10 thick, dry logs. Do you remember how kids draw the sun? We make rays from logs, and the kindling itself will be our sun. As the firewood burns, it moves toward the center, providing warmth, light and a feeling of security for a long time.

This bonfire It’s also convenient when you don’t want to or don’t have anything to chop wood with - just find required quantity fallen young tree trunks birch trees or pine trees.

Taiga fire

Such a fire is indispensable when you need long-term warmth and there is a canopy over your head - maybe a rocky ledge, or you came across a hunting canopy on a hike, and there is slush and wetness all around. We separate the initial bonfire- yes, at least a hut. While we are waiting for coals, we prepare a long thick log, which we place near the coals along the canopy. We place thinner logs on it, star-shaped and on the leeward side. This fire is good because it burns for a long time without adding firewood and “distributes” the heat widely - over a large area.

Regardless of the type of fire you intend to build, you should ALWAYS adhere to the following rules:

The fire follows protect from strong wind;
The fire must be provided air access, otherwise it will burn poorly and smoke;
For heating it is better to dilute wide fire, and for cooking - a small cone-shaped one;
Never Do not leave unattended fire.

That, perhaps, is all the wisdom in kostrology for beginners. I hope this knowledge will help you feel much more confident in the difficult hiking life. And so that such extensive letter descriptions do not evaporate the romance in your souls, I will finally read you a poem Mikhail Treger about the fire.

BONFIRE

To light a fire
It's not enough to take out the matches,
To light a fire
It's not enough to take firewood,
A real fire is cunning
He hides his habits
How the crafty devil hides
Where the “fire-grass” burns.

To light a fire
I need cold, and I need evening,
This means that you need one
Who is cold and dark,
And the fire continues to argue,
Where there is nothing else to save,
Well, who will light it up?
It's basically the same.

Continents can be confused
Confusing division with multiplication
Life is fun, big lyceum
Everything will be fixed, but
Despite all alchemists
Don’t confuse decay with burning,
It will only show in the end
There is no room for improvement.

And now it’s definitely goodbye. Yes, and be healthy to me!

The article was prepared specifically for the 7th issue of the magazine .

I remember that in the bearded Soviet years, when I was still a teenager, I came across a book about tourism, in which there was a chapter devoted to setting up a bivouac. It listed all conceivable and inconceivable types of fires, ranging from the banal “hut” to exotic ones like “Polynesian”. Even then, their diversity caused me slight bewilderment: why bother with this whole vegetable garden, when it’s already burning quite well, just in a bunch?

Subsequently, having started to “pump up” my fishing and tourism experience, I became convinced in practice that only three types of fires are really in demand for our brother, while the rest are either listed in reference books for the sake of words, or are suitable for specific situations.

Which of them turned out to be useful and which were useless will be discussed in this article.

Classification of fires

But before we move on to the actual listing and description different types bonfires, it would be useful to mention where so many of them came from. As it turned out, this diversity is not without reason, and is explained by the fact that a person specifically wants to get from fire in specific conditions. If we simplify everything, it turns out that there are only three types of fires:

Fiery bonfires- those in which the combustion process proceeds as quickly as possible, which gives a good, bright flame. This is ensured by absolutely dry firewood (also -) and a special stacking of firewood, due to which there is an intensive air supply (mainly due to natural draft). The purpose of this type of fire is to illuminate the bivouac and cook food. In special cases, a fiery fire can be used as a signal fire. They are not suitable for long-term heating (for example, during an overnight stay), because they quickly burn out.
fires- those in which, on the contrary, the combustion process is slowed down or even represents smoldering. For this purpose, the air supply is limited - again using a special design; also for this purpose, firewood from those types of wood that produce hot, “long-lasting” coals is used. Such fires give little light, but heat (in the form infrared radiation) are distinguished in order. They dry clothes, cook food (including by roasting over coals), and use them for long-term heating.
Smoke fires- as the name suggests, they are designed to produce large volumes of smoke.

Depending on weather conditions, available firewood, and the current capabilities of the tourist, there are several ready-made options for each type of fire.

The Three Most Useful and Important Bonfires

These are the types of fires that my companions and I use constantly on our outings. Tested by time, hundreds of cubes of dead wood, and thousands of megajoules of thermal energy.

"Taiga"

Rice. 1. The simplest version of the fire: “taiga”. Firewood of different sizes is tightly stacked parallel to each other. Subsequently, as they burn, they can be tossed and slightly crossed in order to optimize the combustion process.

I believe that the evolutionary path of the genus homo began with him. Primitive- Having barely learned to burn brushwood (and, by the way, having ceased to be a monkey) - he burned precisely “taiga” fires in his caves. Why am I so sure of this? Yes, because information about this type of fire is embedded in the subconscious of each of us at the level of instincts, and is transmitted with genetic memory. The habit of stacking firewood more tightly parallel to each other appears in childhood, and is observed even in girls!

Rice. 2. Primitive hunters lit a “taiga” fire and are warming themselves.

I dare to note that in wood-burning stoves, before ignition, logs are laid out precisely according to the principle of a “taiga” fire, which once again confirms the fact that this fire is the most traditional and universal.

There are several varieties of this fire (“hunter’s hearth”, “Tunguska”, “cannon”, etc.). They will be discussed below.

Function: hot
Purpose: universal. You can cook food, dry clothes and shoes, and warm up.
Breeding method: first, in the place where the fire is supposed to be lit, a seed is lit (which can be some kind of fast-burning flaming fire made from small branches and wood chips, for example, a “hut” (see below)), then logs are laid on it. As soon as they char and begin to smolder, consider that the process has begun.
Advantages: very good for cooking, and after achieving some skill in laying logs, the boiler can simply be placed on top - no devices like crossbars, hooks, etc. are needed. It heats well and has a low flame. Firewood consumption is quite tolerable.
Flaws: not detected. Although, some tourists may complain that periodically the firewood in the fire needs to be moved towards each other, as well as new ones must be added. In my opinion, if this is a disadvantage, it is only if a tourist suddenly decides to spend the night next to the “taiga” without a tent. But for me, for example, this circumstance did not interfere with my sleep at all (over the years of forays, I developed the habit of quickly waking up in the middle of the night, quickly stirring up the firewood, putting it on, and just as quickly falling asleep). In general, for spending the night there is another type of fire - nodya (see below).

“Hut”, also known as “cone”

Rice. 3. Bonfire “hut”. It flares up quickly and burns out just as quickly.

Bonfire with accelerated process combustion - is ensured due to the characteristic design, due to which good traction occurs.

Function: fiery.
Purpose: in demand when you need to quickly get a hot fire. In principle, it is universal - can be used for lighting, cooking and heating. But we mainly use it to light the previous fire.
Breeding method: The firewood is stacked in a “hut” - thin twigs and highly flammable material go into the very middle. Then - thicker branches, and so on. The thickest firewood will lie outside (and support the entire structure). It is set on fire from below - from the middle. If laid out correctly, one match is enough.
Advantages: flares up quickly and produces a lot of flame. It illuminates the surrounding area quite well.
Flaws: one of the most uneconomical fires in terms of wood consumption, which must be constantly added to it. Otherwise, it burns out pretty quickly.

“Nodya”, also known as “two logs”, “three logs”, etc.

Rice. 4. Classic “nodya” of three logs. Please note that the rear lower log (far left) is slightly larger in diameter than the others. This is an optional condition, however, it allows you to somewhat optimize the heat transfer in one direction (to the right).

In principle, this is the same “taiga” fire, only “evolved” towards ideal heating. It looks like a forest “heater”. Most traditional version- three-log.

There can also be one-, two-, and four-log (according to some sources, this is not the limit) fires, where the logs are held above each other thanks to four pegs driven close to the ends on both sides, or thanks to a stop that supports a stake driven into the top log .

Rice. 5. Double-log “node” - logs are fixed with pegs, for which it is best to use raw and thicker wood - in order to delay the moment of their burning. However, usually by the time the pegs cease to perform their function, the contacting surfaces of the logs have time to become flat.

For a double-log “node”, it is better to cut the logs on adjacent sides. This will make the combustion process more efficient; also in this case, the need for fixing the logs (in pegs or a stop) may disappear altogether (of course, if the lower log lies stably on the ground).

There is a variant of “nodya”, where a single log is used. First, it is split from the side - like a book, widening the gap with a pair of stakes. Then they place it vertically and ignite the seed inside. The fire, thanks to the draft, quickly rises through the crack. After some time - when inner surface coals are formed - the log is returned to a horizontal position and put in place.

Function: hot
Purpose: heating during the night.
Breeding method: the seed is placed between the logs and ignited. Another option is an additional fire, the coals of which are used instead of kindling.
Advantages:“nodya” is a powerful thing! It burns for a very long time (from 8 hours to a day and a half - depending on the thickness of the logs) and warms well the tourist sleeping next to it. The option with one log at the base can be lit in the snow without fear that the fire will fail.
Flaws: Before you light it, you’ll have to tinker, and no matter what kind of firewood will be suitable, only a long, thick piece of wood, with a diameter of at least 20-30 cm.

Special bonfires

These are, so to speak, “narrow-profile fires.” Designed for specific purposes, for example, for cooking.

"Hunter's Hearth"

Rice. 6. “The Hunter’s Hearth.”

The “taiga” variety differs from the usual version in that two good logs lie at the edges of the firewood stack. The result is a sort of “barbecue” on which you can put skewers, or place a pan on top.

Function: hot
Purpose: cooking.
Advantages: as mentioned above, the pot does not need to be suspended.
Flaws: in principle, this is not a drawback, because it can be eliminated in no time. The logs lying along the edges shield the side rays of heat - all of it goes up, so you won’t be able to sleep near this fire and warm yourself. Usually we do this - during the day we use the “hearth” in a standard configuration, and closer to night we place the already burnt-out side logs on top of the coals - with the smoldering side out, and place some more firewood on top. That is, we’ll convert the fire into a regular “taiga” one.

“Finnish candle”, also known as “Indian candle”, also known as “wooden primus stove”

Rice. 7. The essence of the simplest " Finnish candle».

There are several varieties of the “Finnish candle,” but in almost all of them their meaning boils down to creating a “combustion chamber” inside a short log and lighting a fire in it. To do this, the log is split into two or more parts, after which they are placed next to each other. First, the core of the chopped logs is lightly selected. You don’t have to choose, but then the gaps between them must be left sufficient for air flow. The fire is lit in the middle from above, usually with the help of wood chips, flammable liquid, or both at the same time.

Sometimes the log is not split, but cuts are made in it crosswise - about 3/4 of its length from above. But the people did not stop there, and developed the “ideal Finnish candle.” Its main difference from the others is engineering excellence, optimal performance and the most clear, directional flame.

It is done like this: the log is split into 4 logs, then on each of them we retreat 10 cm from the bottom, and along the sharp edge (where the core is) we make a transverse notch 3-5 cm deep. After this, you should hit the upper end of each log with a hatchet - Having retreated the same distance from the same edge, the core will chip, but not completely, but just before the notch. Now, if you put the logs together, you will get a “glass” with very thick walls, the internal cavity of which will be the “combustion chamber”. But it’s too early to light a fire—it’s necessary to create a channel for air to flow in. To do this, any two adjacent pieces are cut out along a transverse groove on the contacting surfaces - from the lower end of the selected core to the bark. When put together, they form that same channel. Now you can tie the entire structure with rope or wire.

Rice. 8. “The ideal Finnish candle” - appearance and a drawing.

The flame can be adjusted by covering the bottom “air” hole. There is also the possibility of reusable use of the “Finnish candle”: after cooking, we block the air supply and place something flat on the upper end, for example, an empty pot or a flat stone. You can simply turn the log over. The fire and smoldering inside stop within a few minutes, after which the “Finnish candle” is ready for the next use. And some tourists don’t bother and just extinguish it with water. Lighting a “wooden primus stove” before the next cooking session is not a problem at all if you have the right amount of kindling.

The only additional detail: it is better to keep the pot at some distance from the end of the log - in order to provide clearance for the draft to exit. This can be achieved by hanging it above the end, or by placing something under it, for example, several small stones.

Some tourists practice assembling a “Finnish candle” from three round logs placed together.

Rice. 9. Finnish candle made of three round logs.

Function: fiery.
Purpose: purely food preparation, and to some extent lighting. The three-log version is capable of some heating.
Advantages: directional flame. There is no need to hang the pot - it is simply placed on top. Single-log options - where all structural elements are fastened with wire, or are a continuation of the unsawed base of the log - have a very useful function - the ability to drag the fire from place to place in your hands.
Flaws: No matter what kind of firewood is suitable. All varieties of this fire require a saw, and it is also advisable to have lighter fluid on hand.

"Kamelyok"

This type of fire is used to quickly get boiling water and cook a small amount of food in places where good firewood is tight, but full of all sorts of garbage like brushwood, wood chips, etc. In fact, it replaces a folding stove-pinch.

Rice. 10. "Kamelyok" On the left are three cobblestones installed in the form of a hearth. On the right are the same ones, “loaded” with brushwood and with a pot placed on top.

This is no longer a fire, but actually a full-fledged hearth. The structure consists of three large stones, the shape of which more or less approaches a parallelepiped. It is also possible to lay out a “fireplace” from a larger number of smaller stones. The main condition is to create a combustion chamber with an open wall, the bottom of the pot acting as a roof.

Function: fiery.
Purpose: for tea and quick cooking.
Advantages: compact, very economical, invisible.
Flaws: requires three bricks, or a certain number of cobblestones.

"Smoke"

The purpose of this fire is to get a good smoke. Usually it is a medium-sized “hut” (it’s easier to light and it produces a lot of flame), covered with a decent layer of fresh branches on top evergreens(pine, spruce and other spruce branches). In the absence of these, you can also use branches deciduous trees, tall grass and so on.

The principle of operation is as follows: if necessary, the “hut” quickly ignites and the flame begins to burn everything piled on top, and it, in turn, smokes mercilessly.

Function: smoke
Purpose: usually used by seasoned tourists to scare away midges from the camp (for example, in cases where repellents are forgotten at home, and there are tons of mosquitoes). But keep in mind - there must be a lot, a lot of smoke, otherwise you will only make the little vampires laugh. This fire can be used to signal an airplane (the column of smoke will be visible from a distance of several kilometers). In particularly advanced cases, it is ignited to create a smoke screen - in order to mislead the most likely enemy (for example, in role-playing games).
Advantages: high-quality cloud of smoke.
Flaws: the need for an adequate amount of spruce branches in the vicinity.

"Cannon", aka "Tunguska"

Rice. 11. Bonfire “cannon”, also known as “Tunguska”.

In essence, it is a “taiga”, made up of long poles or logs, which rest with their burning end on a log lying across it. This is necessary - of course - for traction, and also so that the entire structure can stand on the snow and not fall down due to its melting. As it burns, the poles move.

Function: hot
Purpose: universal.
Advantages: as mentioned above, this fire can be built in deep snow (or on). The log also plays the role of a heat reflector to some extent.
Flaws: the need to periodically move burning logs. But keep in mind that at any moment a large piece can fall off from any of them and roll towards an unsuspecting tourist.

"Trench"

During hikes with a large number of participants, such a clever fire as a “trench” will be useful for preparing food “for the whole crowd.”

Rice. 12. Fire “trench”. The length of the dug hole corresponds to the length of all the pots available to tourists + a small space for air flow and laying firewood, the width is along the narrowest pot, the depth is about 20 centimeters.

Function: hot
Advantages: You can put several pots or pots on such a fire at once. In addition, it allows you to save wood.
Flaws: the need for a shovel.
Purpose: cooking large quantities of food.

"Useless" fires

Useless - from the point of view of an ordinary forest reveler, or an old-school fishing tourist - like our brother, who is used to simplifying everything. Although, in some special situations, they may come in handy.

"Polynesian"

Have you been to Tahiti? So we do too, so we don’t see any point in lighting this fire, except for fun.

Rice. 13. Polynesian fire.

It is a banal “taiga” fire, for some reason placed “on the butt” in a specially dug hole 30 centimeters deep. Thanks to this, it shines well and burns out faster.

Function: fiery.
Purpose: heating, drying clothes.
Advantages: They say that if the logs are not close to each other, but slightly apart, it illuminates the surrounding space very well.
Flaws: the need for a shovel.

“Well”, also known as “log house”

Rice. 14. Bonfire “well”.

This type of fire is very popular among some tourists, but it has not caught on with us. The reason is the need to split wood lengthwise (required to ensure the stability of the structure). In my opinion, it’s easier to breed “taiga” and wait a bit than to waste time and energy splitting logs.

Function: fiery.
Purpose: cooking.
Advantages: thanks to the full vertical draft, it gives an excellent flame on which you can quickly boil tea or cook something. It also does not require hanging the pot - you can simply place it on top.
Flaws: does not function for long - until it burns out and collapses. After this, the “well” successfully evolves into a slightly scattered “taiga”. For this reason, if the appearance of the fire begins to raise suspicions, it is better not to place the pot on it, but to hang it.

"Reflector"

Rice. 15. “Reflector” fire.

It is to some extent a hybrid of a “taiga” fire (in the “hunter’s hearth” variation) and a node.

Function: hot
Purpose: heating during an overnight stay; you can cook food on the remains of this fire.
Advantages: They say it heats very well - due to the fact that heat is radiated only in one direction.
Flaws: complexity of the design (you have to tinker with constructing the reflector, and on top of everything else, you need to select special logs for it). Also, apparently, this fire requires periodic addition of firewood. Isn’t it easier then to “portray” a node?

"Star"

Attention! The most “useless” fire according to the Urochishche website!

Rice. 16. Bonfire “star”.

Several logs are placed in the shape of a star, and a flame is lit between them. As the logs burn out, they should be moved towards the center.

Function: fiery (sort of).
Purpose: Rumor has it that it’s good to cook on the “star”.
Advantages: even if there is, they are covered by the main disadvantage of the fire. However, one of them is worth noting - the “star” one is very economical in terms of log consumption.
Flaws: the main drawback is that the tourist needs to constantly monitor the entire structure and promptly push the logs, which - if dry - quickly burn out. Wouldn't it be easier to use more simple options? Another point is bulkiness: the logs stick out in all directions like cuttlefish and occupy a decent area. Our experience with this fire ended quite eloquently - after fiddling briefly with the “star” and tripping over it a couple of times, we reconfigured this “miracle of technical thought” into a regular “taiga” one, after which we didn’t blow our heads - and made some tea, and they cooked porridge with meat and warmed themselves to their heart's content.

“Dakota Hearth”, or simply “Dakota”

Rice. 17. “Dakota Hearth.”

According to the “official” legend, this type of fire was invented by North American Indians. My companions and I are inclined to believe that all this is disinformation and another attempt to hide the truth. And it was developed by the CIA, because the Dakota is an ideal spy fire.

Function: hot
Purpose: exclusively for cooking food. Well, you can still warm your hands.
Advantages: there is virtually no flame at all, no smoke - like from a stove (at first there is, then only a light trickle). The fire is very inconspicuous. It is also economical in terms of firewood. Essentially, it’s a stove located in the ground.
Flaws: To create this fire you will have to pretend to be a gopher and dig a decent hole. It also sometimes requires metal grill or several pieces of reinforcement. You won't get much warmth from the "Dakota". Let it be fueled by entertaining tourists, or by intelligence agents of the most likely enemy, who were thrown into the Siberian taiga for the purpose of espionage and sabotage. We will use the “taiga” or “fireplace” in the old fashioned way.

"Pyramid"

In essence, it’s a huge “hut.” It’s only good for pioneer rallies - when you need a powerful visual effect - to delight young “Indians”.

Function: fiery.
Purpose: as mentioned above - purely pyrotechnic.
Advantages: very bright lighting.
Flaws: very uneconomical in terms of firewood.

"Lattice"

Rice. 19. Bonfire “grid”.

It is somewhat reminiscent of a well, only without a central shaft, because in its design it is an ordinary stack, the thickness of the logs in which decreases with height. According to the instruction manual, it is ignited from above, after which the combustion zone gradually moves downwards.

Function: hot
Purpose: a bonfire for a crowd of people. Heating, drying clothes, you can also cook a bucket of soup on it.
Advantages: It gives off a lot of heat and the light is very good. And, judging by all estimates, it can be bred in deep snow or in a swamp. True, after the combustion zone reaches the bottom row of logs, it will still begin to collapse.
Flaws: like all similar fires, it is uneconomical.

Once in the forest, it doesn’t matter whether it’s hunting or a hiking trip, a person is faced with the need to start a fire. Depending on the season and need, there are several types of fires. There are very popular ones, for example, “hut”, and there are those that are very rarely bred - “Polynesian”.

Ignition rules

Before you start lighting a fire, you need to choose a place and make sure that the flame does not spread to vegetation. If it is winter or the ground is simply wet, then you need to prepare a base of stones or logs for the fire.

This is followed by the kindling stage, for which the following materials can be used:

tree bark;
rotten mushrooms, even if they are wet, the inside will always be dry;
dry wood chips;
fluff from both plants and birds is suitable;
puffball mushrooms, but only dried ones.

The kindling material is laid out in a tent or placed between the logs.

Types and purpose

Depending on the need, the type of fire is selected; it may be necessary to cook food or dry clothes. Don't forget that a fire can only warm or dry the objects facing it, so a reflector may be needed. In addition, the reflector will cause the smoke to rise upward. It is easier to maintain a fire in a fire than to start it again. It is better not to leave the fire at night, but sprinkle the coals with ash, then it will be easier to light the fire in the morning.

Types of fires and their purpose:

Fiery, that is, having a high temperature and requiring constant attention, these are “hut”, “Finnish candle” and “well”.
Heat lamps that do not require constant monitoring. Such a fire burns for a long time and allows you to dry clothes and quickly warm up. This is a taiga species and “Nodya”.
Signal or smoke. Used to give signals or to scare away annoying insects.

Hut

This is the most popular type of fire. Photos of such a fire pit can be seen in every family archive, as it helps to keep warm and is convenient for cooking. It is very easy to mix and burns quickly. However, the temperature of such a fire is very high, it burns out quickly, so it will require a lot of firewood to maintain it.

It is constructed very simply; the firewood is laid out like a hut. The “entrance” to the fire must be located on the windy side.

Star

Quite a popular type due to its versatility and ease of construction. Thick logs must be laid out in a star shape around the kindling material. As they burn through, the logs are moved closer to the center. Ideal for cooking and heating. It is better to choose a log from hardwood, birch, oak or maple.

The disadvantages of this type of fire include the fact that it is afraid of rain. It also requires fairly thick logs, which require a tool, saw or ax to obtain, but this is a very economical fire.

Fireplace

Ideal solution for night heating. To build a “fireplace” you will need 4 short logs. They are placed in a circle and a fire is lit inside. On one side you will need to make an inclined wall and drive in two pegs that tilt outward. Logs and logs are laid out on these stakes. As the lower logs burn out, the upper ones roll down, thus maintaining the fire for a long time. The disadvantages include the fact that you will need enough a large number of wood, and to build the structure - certain skills.

Pyramid or lattice

This type is suitable for almost all cases, you can warm up and spend the night near it, it gives off a lot of light.

The structure consists of logs laid in transverse layers in the shape of a pyramid. Ignition is carried out from above. The main advantage is long burning, but only if there are thick logs. Therefore, you will have to take blanks or tools into the forest.

With reflector

The main difference between this type of fire is that mainly a hill or stone is used as a reflector. Be sure to plant it on the leeward side. The reflector can be made from logs, preferably wet ones. This way you can dry the logs and direct the heat of the fire in the desired direction.

Suitable for night heating and can even be lit in a lean-to hut. You can light a fire near the tent, but safe distance.

Taiga

This type also includes the Tunguska fire, the “cannon” and the “hunter’s hearth”; they all have the same design. The burning duration can reach 8 hours.

On a thick log, which is called a subyurlok, 2-3 smaller ones are placed, slightly pushing them forward. Then they create something like a fan, with the wide part at the bottom. The hearth is located at the bottom; as it burns, the logs are moved closer to the hearth. Such a fire can be made even on ground covered with snow.

Nodya

What types of fires are still often used? “Nodya”, which can consist of 1 log or 2, 3 or even four. It is built on the ground if it is dry, but if the weather is wet or snowy, then it is necessary to lay transverse logs. Thick logs (about 30 cm in diameter) and long ones (2-3 meters) are placed at a distance of 10 centimeters, and a fire is lit between them. Small brushwood or dry leaves and branches are used for ignition. To prevent the logs from rolling down, it is recommended to drive stakes between them.

As soon as the logs begin to burn, another one is placed on them, a second one, and so on. Such a fire can burn for up to 36 hours, and several people can warm up around it. If necessary, you can build a screen.

Special types of fires

Special fires are called fires that are only a modification of the main structures, or are combined.

"Finnish candle". Such a fire involves the creation of a “chamber” where the combustion process will take place inside the log itself.

One option: the log is split into several parts, the core is scraped off and a groove is cut out small size at the bottom of the workpiece. Before lighting a fire inside the log, the structure is tied together with wire.

The second option is to make cross cuts in the workpiece, approximately ¾ of the entire length. This type of fire is ideal for cooking.

"Lazy Candle" This is actually a modification of the “Finnish candle”. 3 identical logs are selected and notches are made. The blanks are placed vertically and tightly to each other. The fire is lit from above.

"Kamelek". The perfect solution for places where it is difficult to find suitable logs. The fire must be surrounded on three sides with stones. Suitable for heating water and cooking food in small quantities.

"Trench". Such a fire will allow you to cook food for a large company. It can be lit in a field in windy weather. To do this, you will need to dig a ditch approximately 1 meter long, 30 centimeters deep, and approximately 500 centimeters wide. The bottom of the trench must be lined with stones, building something like a barbecue. Firewood is stacked on top.

Signal

Types of fires and their names used to give a distress signal:

Smoke. The main task of such a fire apparatus is to maximize the amount of smoke that can be noticeable even from an airplane. It is necessary to lay out the logs in the form of a hut, light a fire and cover it with branches of evergreens or, if they are absent, with long grass or leaves.
Pioneer. Known for their bright flames, they are built in the form of a tripod or triangle from long logs. All wood is installed vertically. This design always produces a high flame, but you will need to add grass and branches to create a lot of smoke.

A little exotic

Of course, many types of fires and their names with photos can be found on the Internet, but descriptions and images of Polynesian fires are rare. Such a fire pit is very rarely built on the territory of our country, since such a structure is of very little use.

For the construction, you will need to dig a hole with a depth of about 30 centimeters, and line the walls with stones. The logs are installed vertically below. Such a fire is practically invisible and is not afraid of rain. Such a fire burns for a long time and does not require much wood. To avoid a lot of smoke, they usually dig another hole nearby and connect both with a trench.

Lighting a fire without matches

It is not always possible to keep matches dry, and very often the lighter fails. In this case, you can use a magnifying glass or glasses, or the same camera lens, to start a fire. For ignition in such a situation, you should use dry crushed leaves, bark with resin, moss and even bird down.

To store matches on a long trip, you can use ziplock bags; these bags can hold the entire package of matches. You can use airtight containers or an ordinary jar.

You can use paraffin or wax to protect matches. In this case, you should cover not only the head, but also the wood. To cover the match, wax is melted in metal utensils. Best to use steam bath and do not overheat the paraffin, the water should be on the verge of boiling.

If the matches do get wet, you can even dry them on your own body, in the liver area or on the neck. You can wrap them in toilet paper which will quickly absorb moisture.