Liquid primer for cars. Which primer is best for cars? Primer with phosphating effect

Car primer is necessary operation which is performed before painting. Car primer performs several functions, namely:

• improved adhesion to the paintwork of the machine;
• corrosion protection;
• resistance to atmospheric factors;
• protection from external mechanical influences;
• neutralization of chemically aggressive factors;
• leveling the surface before painting.

There are very many on the market today wide choose similar funds from different manufacturers. Depending on which of the above factors is determining, as well as on the specifics specific task we can choose which auto primer is best.

In order for the choice to be competent and informed, it is worth becoming better acquainted with the types of automotive soils on the market, and with the characteristics and features of each of them.

Classification

Car primer can be classified according to various signs. According to purpose, composition and mode of action, it is divided into the following types:

• acrylic primer;
• epoxy primer;

It is obvious that these materials differ in their composition. Each of them has its own specific application and features, which we will consider below.

Depending on how many components are present in the mixture, soils are divided into 2 groups:

• one-component;
• two-component.

A one-component composition, as the name suggests, consists of one component. It does not require preliminary preparation. Single-component products are ready for immediate use.

A two-component primer for cars contains, respectively, 2 components - it must be prepared before use. A hardener and, if necessary, a solvent are added to the composition.

Each of these types has its own advantages. Which one to choose depends on the specifics of the task at hand.

Based on the type of container, primer mixtures are also divided into 2 types:

• in metal cans;
• in cans.

The first option is, as a rule, two-component mixtures that require preliminary preparation. They usually have a high viscosity and are applied by brush, roller or air gun.

The second option is applied using the aerosol method - these are single-component substances, ready for use without prior preparation.

The choice of container depends on the amount of work you plan. An aerosol is better suited for treating local areas. For larger scales you will need soil in metal cans. No matter how much they talk about the convenience of aerosol cans, they are not able to provide high performance over large areas.

Acrylic primer for car

The acrylic group of automotive primers is the most widely used. This is the most versatile variety, and any master will tell you that with its help you can perform the widest possible type of work.

Acrylic primers are used for all types of surfaces:

• become;
• plastic;
• chrome surfaces;
• galvanized surfaces;
• light alloys;
• paint coating;
• putty.

If we talk about the problems that this type of soil solves, we can name the following factors:

• surface leveling;
• filling scratches and chips;
• improved adhesion;
• anti-corrosion protection.

Experts talk about the following properties of the acrylic group of primers:

• heat resistance;
• moisture resistance;
• durability;
• resistance against exposure to atmospheric factors.

After preparing the mixture, it must be applied within 1 hour - after this time it begins to lose its properties. To the question of how long it takes for the acrylic composition to dry, the answer is simple - not for long (from 3 to 8 hours at 20 0 C).

Epoxy primer for car

Based soils epoxy resins belong to the anti-corrosion protection group. This type protects the surface of the car in a physical way, creating durable coating in the form of a thin film.

The materials in this group serve the following purposes:

• anti-corrosion protection of the machine;
• preparing the surface for painting;
• improving adhesion;
• protection from external mechanical factors;
• filling micro-irregularities.

This composition can be applied to various groups metals, as well as polyester putty. It has excellent properties that make it a highly effective protective agent:

• heat resistance;
• non-hygroscopic;
• resistance to external mechanical damage;
• uniform drying;
• high adhesion.

Especially among the advantages of the epoxy composition, experts emphasize the high environmental friendliness provided by natural ingredients, friendly to the environment and the human body.

A significant disadvantage of such materials is the long drying time. You will need more than 12 hours for the primer to dry. The use of high-temperature drying methods is contraindicated - the layers dry unevenly, and wrinkles and bubbles appear on the surface.

Acid primer for cars

Acidic materials for priming cars are a product that provides chemical protection from exposure to moisture and salts, thereby preventing the development of corrosion.

You should know that acid mixtures are a means for primary priming. They are not suitable for subsequent painting. Secondary primer is applied to the acid layer. The application of polyester putties and epoxy primers is contraindicated - they neutralize the effect of the reactive layer.

It is suitable for processing the following types materials:

• ferrous metals;
• galvanized steel;
• chrome steel;
• aluminum

The acid composition is applied very thin layer, forming protective covering, which has the following properties:

• hygroscopicity;
• temperature resistance;
• resistance to moisture and salts;
• durability;
• resistance to atmospheric influences.

After application, it must be sanded if necessary. For this you can use manual method and sandpaper or a power tool with abrasive wheels.

Conclusion

Today on the market there are very big choice various means for priming a car. Each of them has its own characteristics, advantages, disadvantages and is responsible for performing a specific task.

Education: secondary specialized. Specialty: car mechanic. Professional diagnostics, repair, maintenance of passenger cars of foreign production 2000-2015. Extensive experience working with Japanese and German cars.

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Priming a car with your own hands is much easier than priming, because it is quite difficult to make smudges on the ground. priming is so simple that anyone can master it. To properly prime your car yourself, it is enough to familiarize yourself with the theory once.

It is best to prime the car in a relatively clean, well-ventilated area with a minimum of dust. If we are talking about local priming, then you should cover the parts that will not be primed with special paper (in as a last resort newspapers) and masking tape. Before applying primer, you should prepare a tool such as a primer sprayer in advance.

Primer Basics

After pasting the car, you can start diluting the soil. First of all, you need to mix it thoroughly to lift heavy components from the bottom of the jar, and then dilute it with a hardener (it is highly advisable to use only the original one) and a solvent (preferably the original one, but 646 is also possible). The proportions must be indicated on the can. It is better not to dilute by eye, but to use a special container where you can see the grams.

It is advisable to filter the finished mixture through a proprietary filter or ordinary gauze, folded 3-4 times. Usually it is enough to apply the primer in 2-3 layers. It is extremely important to maintain a drying time of 5-10 minutes between coats. Otherwise, the soil may boil, which is highly undesirable.

On a note

The choice of primer color has great importance. The paint should cover the primer so that it does not show through at different angles. The universal color is grey.

There are also primers in black, white, red and other colors. Using this palette you can mix primers and get the desired color. It is important to remember that the materials being mixed must be from the same company.

On a note

Before applying the primer, you must wipe the car with an antistatic cloth, then degrease it with anti-silicone or alcohol.

According to technology, the first layer needs to be filled normally. But, if the primer goes on the old paintwork, which in some places has been worn down to the old soil, then it is in these places that the new soil can be undermined. To prevent this, you need to spray the first layer and dry for about 10 minutes. The second and third layers can be poured, then let dry for 24 hours.

The soil can be treated either dry or with water. It should be remembered here that soils partially absorb water, which over time leads to metal corrosion, therefore, it is better to process dry. A special grinding machine can help with this. For metallic paint, the body should be sanded with R-600 and R-800 sandpaper, but for regular acrylic, R-400 and R-500 will be sufficient.

New parts need to be given extra attention, because they are covered with shipping primer (usually black). In order for the repair of the machine to be of high quality, the transport soil must be cleaned with R-240 sandpaper down to the metal. After this procedure, you can put 2-3 layers of soil.

After 10-15 minutes, you need to develop the primer with paint of a contrasting color. The next day you can start cleaning. During processing, development may show minor unevenness. In this case, you will need to re-prime the flaws or the entire part.

Do-it-yourself car priming is absolutely safe if you approach it correctly. The fact is that during any paintwork, including body priming, it is necessary to use personal protection(respirator, gloves, suit). Primer fumes are very harmful, so be careful about your health.

Preparing body parts for soil

Putty surfaces must be thoroughly dried before priming. Residual moisture will not be sealed by the primer as it is not sealed (except epoxy) but may be absorbed by it. If paint is applied to wet soil, craters may appear.

The primer should be applied only when the putty has been removed to such a state that its surface becomes smooth and uniform. Places where I stayed old paint, you also need to pay enough attention. They should be sanded with the same grain size.

The finished surface must be cleaned of dust. To do this, wipe it with a slightly damp cloth, after which it is immediately passed dry. This procedure must be performed immediately before degreasing, after which they immediately proceed to applying primer.

Degreasing before priming can be done with either a solvent or anti-silicone. First, they are carried out with a swab soaked in a degreaser, and then they are passed with a dry cloth. This sequence is necessary to ensure that no greasy film remains on the surface. A dry cloth must be constantly folded so that you can work with the clean side.

Grouting the primed body

Each stage of car painting has its own purpose. The primer is an intermediate layer between the paint and the metal. If the part is puttied, then the primer is placed on the putty. However, the primer layer itself needs to be sanded, since it initially has some bumpiness.

Grouting of the soil can be done either manually or by machine. You need to work with abrasives very carefully, since a thin layer of primer can be easily wiped off. If this happens, it is convenient to cover the wipes with epoxy primer in an aerosol can.

The finishing primer is sanded with 800 grit. This size is considered optimal for applying paint. If, as a result of grinding, the developing layer indicates defects, then they must be eliminated finishing putty, which will then have to be primed again, but this time spot-on. These places are then sanded again, and so on until the part is perfect.

Types of primers for car bodies

There are three main types of primers:

• acrylic;
• epoxy;
• acidic (phosphate, reactive).

Acrylic primer is used to fill small pores of putty and old layers of paint and form an adhesive layer for the base paint. One of the undesirable properties of this soil is hygroscopicity. The moisture accumulated by it contributes to metal corrosion, so acrylic must be dried well.

Epoxy primers form an airtight film, so they are often used as an insulating layer. It can be used for both steel parts and non-ferrous metal parts, as well as for galvanic coatings. This is an excellent waterproofing agent that has high adhesion.

Acidic soils react with metal, forming a film of oxides on it and penetrating into its structure. Such primers are classified as rust converters and are actively used to coat old bodies, where surface grinding does not guarantee complete elimination of corrosion in the pores. Metal protected by acid soil becomes much more resistant to corrosion.

Every car owner wants to protect the paintwork of their car from corrosion. Automotive primer is a reliable base, foundation for paint and protection of metal. On modern market auto products presented a large number of a variety of products: from cheap to expensive, popular and little-known brands. This means that choosing an auto primer is not an easy task, but it is a responsible one. Let's figure out what you need to know about this product and how to properly use its wonderful qualities?

Automotive primers refers to a whole series of compounds intended for application to the surface of the body. A high-quality product is always expensive, but it is better to opt for it in order to avoid an unsatisfactory result and re-painting. There are several types of primers:

• Sealants: protect against the solvent properties of paint, improve adhesion and make layers uniform.
• Epoxy waterproof resin-based primers: have a dense structure and protect against oxidation. Usually mixed with hardener and applied in 2-3 layers. No sanding required after application.
• Primers (leveling primers): quickly applied, easy to sand, perform adhesive and anti-corrosion functions.

Surface priming compositions differ in the presence of various components. Based on this, they can be divided into:

• Alcohol-based: dry very quickly, within an hour, used in places where conventional primers are impractical to work with.
• One-component: rarely used, as they do not contain a hardener, and therefore the drying process takes a long time.
• Two-component: thanks to additional components (cans of hardener), such primers dry within 24 hours, and therefore are used more and more often. There are two types: hard and soft. The former are more stable, but are more difficult to sand, while the latter are easier to process, but at the same time they shrink and therefore the paintwork deteriorates over time.

Primers are also distinguished by the method of protective effect on the metal. What types of primers are there in this regard? It is best to look for each of them using a special letter marking. The following categories are distinguished:

• with a phosphating effect;
• passivating;
• tread;
• with inert particles;
• rust modifier.

Primer with phosphating effect

The composition contains phosphoric acid, which, when combined with metal, forms sparingly soluble phosphates. The resulting layer, despite its thinness (only 8-12 microns), is durable and has good adhesion. The primer is capable of penetrating into metal to a depth of 0.05 microns. After applying the first layer, you can immediately apply the second. It is easy to understand which of the primers has phosphating properties; they are marked with the letters VL.

Passivating primers

These products make the surface impervious to moisture (that is, passive) due to the chromates of certain metals contained in their composition. Thanks to this property, no oxidation reaction will occur.

To protect the fenders and underbody of a car from corrosion, a lead-lead primer is often used. When choosing a composition, it is also best to focus on letter marking– GF.

Protective means

This primer protects the metal surface from negative impact environment. The potential of the metal dust contained in it is lower than that of the car body. Thus, in relation to the car, such a primer acts as a protector. Letter designation EP and E are classified as protective primers.

Compositions with inert particles

These primers mechanically protect the surface without interacting with other film-forming substances. These compounds are most often used during minor repairs body Their markings, for example, are FL-OZK, GF-21.

Rust modifier

Essentially, this primer is a converter of corrosion products. In cases where rust removal is impossible for some reason, the composition is applied directly to the damaged area of ​​the surface, interacting with it. Corrosion elements are converted by the modifier into durable protective film. The composition in cans can be applied by spraying or brushing in two layers. A prerequisite for quality work with such a primer - the air temperature is not lower than +15 C 0.

The car can be covered with primer at a car service center or yourself. However, before doing this, you should be concerned about choosing a quality product. It is best to purchase products from the same brand to avoid their negative influence on each other. Which company is preferable is a matter of taste, but before starting work you should carefully study the composition of the primer, its shelf life and compatibility with other products. Do not neglect to follow the instructions and be sure to thoroughly dry the layers.

Priming in a car service

A car workshop will provide the car owner with quick and high-quality results, but such work will not be cheap. The fact is that a professional who respects the client and his work applies several types of primer to the car body. At the beginning, a phosphating or acid composition is used to ensure the best adhesion. The first layer of primer is applied to a washed, degreased surface. It does not require subsequent polishing.

To avoid poisoning when working with chemical or phosphating compounds, it is necessary to ventilate the room well.

The second part of the work is applying 2-3 layers of two-component soft or hard primer. This product is best for hiding minor flaws and defects on the surface. The time interval between applying layers is 10-15 minutes. If the surface is flat, then usually use a primer that does not require sanding and, after it dries, begin painting the surface.

DIY priming

When doing the work yourself, be especially careful when choosing a primer. Which little-known manufacturing company and its products guarantee good quality, it’s hard to say, and therefore it’s better to focus on popular, well-proven brands. It is also worth noting that the primer copes well with small irregularities, but larger defects can be eliminated using putty.

Prepare the car surface thoroughly before priming. After reading the instructions, proceed to applying the composition. Let the layers dry well, and then, to level them, sand with sandpaper. different sizes grains Applying a leveler with a thicker consistency will help hide sanding imperfections. To avoid mixing of paint and primer, be sure to use auto sealant.

May 30th, 2016 Admin

Probably many of you, dear readers, have heard about such a technological operation as priming a car body. The point of this procedure is to apply an intermediate coating between the metal and the paint, thereby increasing the corrosion resistance of the car. Typically, it is done at the manufacturer's factory before the body goes to the paint shop.

However, in some cases, priming needs to be done in a car service center - for example, when repainting part of a car after an accident. It is unwise to neglect this procedure, since rust will soon appear on the newly painted area. It is equally important to choose the right primer and apply it so that it fits optimally on the surface. It is the last 2 points that often cause difficulties for car enthusiasts who need to prime. We will talk about what types of automotive primer there are and how to apply them in this article.

What is automotive primer?

Primer is a special substance that is intended to be applied to metal surface(hereinafter we mean auto primer), which has previously undergone special training.

Soils are classified by type, type and composition. If we talk about the first ones, then there are 3 of them:

• Epoxy primer for metal;
• Leveling, also known as primer;
• Primer-sealant.

The first type has good resistance to moisture due to its dense structure. As a rule, after drying such a primer does not need to be sanded, limiting itself to only eliminating drips with fine sandpaper. Often used as a primary primer.

The primer also has good anti-corrosion properties, and it also perfectly smooths out small pits due to its thick consistency, which is what it is mainly used for. Needs sanding.

Sealant is finishing primer. It promotes uniformity of previous layers and prevents paint from penetrating into the soil and corroding it.

Types of metal primers for cars

By type of soil it is classified into:

• Passivating primer - prevents the metal from corroding, forming a powerful protective layer. Highly effective, therefore applied to the underbody, fenders and sills;
• With inert particles - prevent moisture from entering the metal. Used for minor repairs;
• Protective primer - slows down rusting when the paint is damaged due to the content of substances that prevent corrosion;
• Phosphating primers - form a protective film due to penetration into the metal and subsequent reaction with the formation of sparingly soluble substances;
• Podifiers are applied directly to the rust and act on it, preventing it from spreading further.

The composition of the classification is as follows:

• One-component. Without a hardener, which is why it takes a long time to dry. As a result, it is almost never used;
• Two-component. With a hardener, it dries quite quickly (about 24 hours);
• Alcohol. Used if quick results on a small area (scratches, etc.) are important. Thanks to the alcohol in the composition, it dries in literally 1 hour.

How to apply primer to a car

The most common are 5 methods. These are dipping, brush painting, simple and electrospray, electrodeposition.

The first method is used exclusively in car factories, where there is a pool with a primer and all the necessary technological equipment.

The brush is strictly suitable for minor repairs, such as priming chips before painting.

The remaining 3 methods are widely used in car services for processing the entire body.

IMPORTANT: When priming, it is important to follow several rules.

• Firstly, strictly maintain the time interval so that the soil layer dries. The relevant information is always indicated in the instructions.
• Secondly, have several types of sanding paper of different grain sizes and a primer on hand.

The latter will be useful for eliminating irregularities if any appear. Thirdly, it is necessary to cover all surfaces where the primer should not fall with masking tape. You can remove it after the soil has dried.

How to properly dilute primer for car painting

The rules for diluting soil are quite simple. First you need to thoroughly stir what is in the jar to lift the sediment from the bottom and achieve a uniform consistency. And only then the hardener and solvent are added, and in the quantity strictly specified in the instructions. Finally, the finished soil must be filtered. It is better to have a full-fledged filter, but multi-layered gauze will also do.

If the primer is one-component, there will be no hardener. Otherwise, it is added first, and then the solvent.

All substances that you add to the primer must be suitable for it. At a minimum, this applies to the hardener. You can use solvent 647 instead of the standard one, but do so at your own risk.

Applying, drying and sanding the primer

You can’t just go ahead and apply a primer. First, the surface must be treated appropriately:

• Blow off all the dust (with a compressor, for example);
• Wipe with dust-collecting wipes;
• Apply anti-silicone to degrease.

Since the primer will most likely be applied by spraying (the pressure should be from 2 to 4 atm), it is better to set the torch in advance. When everything is ready, you can start priming:

• The primary primer is applied in a thin layer so that it adheres better to the metal;
• Wait the required time until it dries (this is indicated in the instructions);
• Proceed with the main priming, which is applied in 3 layers. It is important not to make the layer thick, otherwise it will take a long time to dry. A new layer can be applied when the old one becomes “matte”, usually this takes no more than 10 minutes.

Let the base primer dry and start looking for defects. If found, sand with a machine with a soft pad (when everything is dry) or sandpaper from P600 to P800 (if the coating is still wet/damp). Be careful not to overdo it – you can’t rub it to the metal! Apply putty to the corrected defect (a primer will come in handy here) and smooth it with the same sandpaper. Next, the sealant is applied, after it dries and if there are no defects, you can paint it.

Primer - pros and cons

Remember a simple truth - a high-quality primer cannot be cheap, and you cannot save money on it, because otherwise you will have to start all over again. The fact is that cheap primers noticeably shrink over time, and “depressions” appear on the body, which destroys the paintwork. Then corrosion appears, and the primer and painting will have to be done again.

However, if the priming is done correctly, you will get:

• Strong body resistance to rust;
• An excellent base for painting;
• A completely flat surface that is quite resistant to minor mechanical damage.

It should be noted that for self-priming you will need a protective suit, skills in working with spraying equipment, the equipment itself and an appropriately equipped room (with an exhaust hood, heating, etc.). If all this is missing, then the only way out is to contact specialists who will prime and paint your “swallow” in compliance with all standards.

In order to protect the car from corrosion, it needs to be primed. This means that simply painting the car will not be enough; special compounds are needed to achieve protection. It is also important to note that depending on the chemical composition of the primer, it can provide very different protection.

There is a barrier protection against corrosion, which is designed to keep the metal surface from water penetration. The main thing is that the paint adheres to the surface as best as possible. She, in turn, needs to be prepared as best as possible. This will determine whether microcracks appear on the coating and whether the adhesion will be strong.

If there is a small gap, it can also lead to corrosion. This process can begin to develop even in the smallest scratch. Especially if you get caught in the rain after this crack appears. There is also under-film corrosion, which penetrates under the coating, and this is how metal damage develops. And all because of one small crack.

If you prime your car, you can stop the corrosion process. The so-called passivation process.

Due to the fact that the composition includes phosphating substances, it is possible to obtain a coating by enameling that will protect the car from the corrosion process.

And all thanks to a variety of inhibitory pigments. How does primer work? It makes it possible to combine chemical exposure elements along with body metal.

There is also tread protection. This is made possible by the material to which the powder is added, which is resistant with enhanced corrosion properties. This is much more than the presence of such substances in the metal that needs to be protected.

Here are the additives that can be in the metal. We are talking about aluminum, zinc, and other metals that, unlike iron, do not rust. In this case, no one touches the protected material itself, they just cover it with a protective layer consisting of metal.

Each primer differs from the other in that they all have different degrees of corrosion protection. Also, each primer has its own area of ​​application. First, let's find out what to do when we decide to prime the car.

It all depends on what kind of solvent the primer has. Therefore, depending on this, two special types of primer are distinguished. Firstly, we are talking about organosoluble, and, secondly, about one that dissolves using ordinary water.

Let's consider another classification of soil:

• We prime an ordinary surface. In this case, there is no problem with roughness at all, so there is no difficulty in finding the ground to adhere to the surface.
• Now let's talk about problem areas. There is no roughness on them. We are talking about zinc, aluminum or copper coatings. This adhesion problem is due to the fact that a variety of chemical reactions take place on the metal surface.

The main thing is that you do not save on buying soil. After all, if it is anti-corrosion, then you should think about purchasing quality product, then there will be no problems with the coating. It will be reliable, which means your car will be protected. Often they use a primer in a can. It is easy to apply and costs very little. But often you come across a fake. If the product is from an excellent manufacturer, then you can buy it. It will be able to protect the car from corrosion. Unverified manufacturers usually sell counterfeits.

When wondering how to prime a car, let’s say that this can be done in the two most common ways. Firstly, it is done independently. But without skills you won't succeed. Because the result is important, and for this you need the ability to prime. Secondly, the opportunity to contact a service station. A specialist will prime your car there.

What is the purpose of using a primer? This way you can protect any metal from rust. And this is possible especially for iron, which is most susceptible to this problem. Since the soil is placed on top of the metal, access to the latter is interrupted. This means there is no corrosion.

What contributes to protection against corrosion? This special additive, which is represented by iron oxide. They can also add more to the primer chemical elements, which also stop corrosion, and besides, they decompose and remove existing rust themselves. In other words, it is transformed.

If this is the case, then this primer has special instructions stating that the solution can be applied directly to the rust. Otherwise it must be cleaned first.

There is no need for the primer to be protected from atmospheric influences, temperature changes, in other words, from rain and snow, hail and icing. Since the surface will still be painted later, which will protect it and the material from the adverse effects of the environment.

Can choose special material, we are talking about enamel and paint. They contain some kind of anti-corrosion elements. When the car is painted with them, you won’t have to worry about the vehicle.

But it is important to know whether you have primed your vehicle correctly. Then you can use your car for as long as possible. After all, the factory coating can be preserved for long years. True, it is important to perform the primer according to the right technology. Otherwise achieve desired result will be impossible.

There are several types of primer. We are talking about the priming method, about chemical composition, about other characteristics.

First, let's pay attention to the types of primer, which differ in the principle of their effect:

1. We are talking, firstly, about passivation. It oxidizes the surface where it was applied. Red lead is used. True, it is very toxic, so it is not currently used. When the bottom and wings of the car have been processed, a passive state occurs.
2. Secondly, we are talking about phosphating. Phosphoric acid is used. This creates a film that protects against adverse weather conditions. Its thickness reaches up to twelve micrometers. True, the layer has very high adhesive properties. The next layer is easily applied on top of it.
3. Thirdly, we are talking about protective primers. The composition consists of zinc powder, it is distinguished by the fact that it is able to restore the affected area of ​​​​the metal. In this case, the zinc is destroyed, but the metal of the body remains intact.
4. We are talking, fourthly, about modifying. It is applied to the area that has been affected by rust. There is no need to clean it up. In this case, the primer has a transformative property. She also carries protective function. It’s just important to follow technological processes so that the work goes smoothly. The ambient temperature should not exceed fifteen degrees Celsius. For high-quality priming, the primer is sprayed onto the metal.
5. Fifthly, we are talking about an insulating primer. This can form a protective layer that protects against moisture. The composition of the primer has very good adhesion, so it sticks to the metal perfectly.

Although all five types of primers have some differences, they all have the disadvantage that they do not have decorative functions. More importantly, they are not weather resistant. This means that the downside is that this primer needs to be coated with varnish or paint. And to protect the body from rust, you need to regularly apply mastic over it.

The type of composition of the primer is also different, let’s look at what kind of primer there is:

• We will talk about one-component ones, to which no hardener is added. Therefore, this primer takes a very long time to dry. That is why it is used very rarely.
• We will talk about two-component ones, which are more popular because they dry much faster.
• We will also say something about alcohol based ones; they generally dry out instantly. There are two types in this group. Firstly, we are talking about soft ones, which later spoil the coating due to shrinkage, and, secondly, about hard ones, which are difficult to sand, but last a long time. If using previous types of primer does not work, then this type is used. But the most popular is the second one.

Table. Optimal technical characteristics that the priming mass should have.

This type of primer is classified as paint and varnish materials, helping to protect the car from rust. This primer has two important features. Firstly, corrosion cannot damage the surface, and secondly, it is an excellent base for enamel, which will be applied over the primer.

Let's look at the basic rules for working with epoxy primer:

1. The coating must dry very well, but this takes time. Dry only correctly, as indicated in the instructions.
2. The thickness of the layer should not exceed twenty-three micrometers.
3. If the soil is too viscous, it is diluted with water to obtain a more liquid consistency.

Spray primer is often used. It is sold in all specialty auto stores. Used as a preparation before painting, as well as for local repairs body parts.

Only epoxy primer will remove only small scratches.

If you have a large dent on your car, then use putty. Unlike other types of primer, epoxy dries faster and can easily withstand any temperature changes.

How is the primer applied? First, the surface is prepared. It must be clean, free of dust, free of moisture.

It is important to remember that epoxy is not applied to rust. It must first be cleaned using grinder or sandpaper. Apply the primer in one layer, this is how you can protect the car from rust, and also keep the paintwork intact.

The machine has been indispensable and practical for several decades. vehicle. It can cope with the effects of various weather conditions thanks to protective properties body But, like all things in this world, over time it needs diagnostics and various types of repairs.