How to keep hydrangea before planting. Hydrangea in Siberia, care, planting and care in open ground. Preparation for storage

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Hydrangea is one of those few garden plants, which are able to decorate shaded areas of the garden and safely overwinter in open ground. But why start getting to know her?

These unpretentious shrubs They delight with abundant colorful flowering from the second half of July until the first autumn frosts. However, in order for your plant to be strong and healthy, it is important to take care of this even when purchasing. Right choice seedling is very important.

Types and varieties of hydrangeas for the middle zone

Of the huge number of species (there are up to 80), the most suitable for growing in middle lane are:

• tree hydrangeas (varieties Annabelle(Annabelle) Incrediball(Incrediball) and Grandiflora(Grandiflora)),
• paniculate (Vanilla Frazee(Vanille Fraise) Phantom(Phantom) Weems Red(Wims Red)),
• large-leaved (Teller Blue(Teller Blue) Expression(Expression), Red Sensation(Red Sensation)).

If you want to choose a hydrangea with a certain flower color, then it is best to buy the plant during the flowering period.

How to choose the right hydrangea seedlings

In spring, hydrangeas are sold as bare-root seedlings and in pots. Healthy seedling has at least two shoots and a healthy root system without the slightest sign of mold. When putting up seedlings for sale, sellers can remove the whitish coating from the roots, so if you smell mold, you should avoid purchasing. Please also note that all roots must be moist and in no case overdried.

Buying seedlings in pots, remove the plant along with the earthen lump from the pot and check in the same way as specimens with an open root system.

Hydrangea seedlings, purchased and planted in the spring, take root and grow stronger throughout the summer, as a result of which they can easily survive the winter.

On sale from mid-June blooming hydrangeas in containers. A healthy specimen should have bright green and elastic leaves. If they are slightly wilted or have a brownish tint, this may indicate infection with bacteriosis. You cannot buy such a plant even if the inflorescences look healthy and bloom beautifully.

Rules for planting hydrangeas in the garden

The best time to plant hydrangea is early May. If you are planting several bushes, you should consider the size of the plant as an adult. Usually planting pits dig at a distance of 150 cm from each other, 50x50 cm in size and 50 cm deep. Each hole is filled with a mixture of turf soil, humus and peat in equal proportions.

Before boarding The roots of hydrangea seedlings are slightly shortened, and the shoots are pruned, leaving up to 5 buds. Plants are placed so that the root collar is located at soil level. After landing hydrangeas are watered abundantly and mulched with peat. In order for the hydrangea bush to grow and strengthen, the first inflorescences that appear are removed.

Plants, bought in the summer, during the flowering period, they are planted in open ground using the transshipment method, together with a clod of earth, making sure that the root system is not injured. The planted hydrangea bush is shaded, protecting the tender young leaves from the effects of direct sun rays and also watered regularly.

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Soil cultivation Yeast as fertilizer for flowers

With fertilizers, you can grow even the most exotic flowers in the garden, and even achieve lush flowering in those that are familiar...

Oksana, young rose seedlings can sit for a very long time and not grow. Now everything depends on the root system. For example, some bushes purchased in one place were received differently. Sometimes they sit without signs of life until mid-summer, and then you look, the buds are just starting to wake up. All you need here is patience.

If you added fertilizer to the hole when planting, then the first fertilizing can begin a month after planting. What fertilizers exactly? I prefer complex ones. I told Olga about them a little higher in the commentary. Sometimes I alternate liquid (for flowering) or the same diammophoska, azofoska, nitroammophoska: I dilute it in a watering can and water it. Feeding should be done every two weeks. Fertilizers can also be divided according to their main elements: at the beginning of summer, for the growth of shoots, fertilizers containing nitrogen, for example, ammonium nitrate, are needed. During the formation of buds and flowering - until the end of July and the beginning of August, you can use superphosphate or double superphosphate. In autumn, potassium fertilizers are needed, for example, potassium sulfate or potassium sulfate. You can use the most common ash.
I do the last fertilizing with complex fertilizer in early or mid-August, after which both fertilizing and watering stop. The only exception for watering is extreme heat. If there is no intense heat, then watering is not needed. At the end of August - September, roses bloom well.

In the fall, you can feed only pure potassium fertilizers to prepare roses for winter.
Now about aphids: they always appear in early June, when the buds appear on roses. A garden ants It is precisely these aphids that are spread among the branches. So you can spray both aphids on the branches and ants on the ground. For treatment, you can use any broad-spectrum insecticides. But I don't take too strong. I have enough actors on the street. You can use Actellik, but the ampoule is small, I only use it for indoor plants.
The rose is mature: if you feed it and water it, but the leaves are still oppressed, then there are either pests, not only those on the branches, but also “underground inhabitants,” or the bush is sick.

When I can’t immediately determine why the bush looks sick, I immediately treat it against pests, and I spray it on top and pour the same solution under the bush so that no one gnaws the roots. Sometimes I carry out these treatments 3-4 times every 7-10 days.
For diseases and rot I use foundationazole, Bordeaux mixture, and Maxim. Sometimes one treatment is enough, sometimes 2-3.
After such an “onslaught,” the roses continue to grow normally.
Oksana, maybe all this will seem a little complicated to you. You can do without all this. In nature, the strongest survive. But then the roses will bloom accordingly: in early June there will be several buds, and in September there will be several buds.
Only with constant feeding and processing will you see what all this was started for.

Hydrangea paniculata and roses Encyclopedia of roses

I'm growing 10 paniculata hydrangeas(9 varieties). so I have experience with them. According to varieties they can be completely different sizes- from giants (Finnish variety Mustila and old variety Grandiflora), wide “square” habit, medium-tall and spreading like Phantom, Silver Dollar, Vaniya Frez, Lime Light, and there are also quite limited in size - the very beautiful narrow Winky-Pinky, new variety the most maroon Weems Red and the shortest Bobo. The last three could be combined in mixes with perennials and some varieties of roses. Winky-Pinky and Bobo will go well together in mixborders.
As for their agricultural technology, in my climate all hydrangeas (except for Great Star - and the poorly late-blooming one!) grow in full sun, although partial shade is recommended everywhere. I don’t deoxidize them on purpose; they were planted without being buried in the wettest parts of the site on mounds of brought peat. I feed them twice - with mineral fertilizers for bushes and mulch with horse manure. Generally. meth Hydrangeas are very fond of organic matter, this is their similarity to roses. This is probably where all the similarities end. First of all, in my opinion, what would interfere with the joint growth of roses and hydrangeas is the attitude towards moisture! Almost all of my hydrangeas are planted in such a way that they are not only NOT watered, but, on the contrary, with the aim of draining the nearby area near the rose gardens. But such wet, stagnant places will be very harmful to roses. Secondly, trying to plan such complex plantings roses with perennials and bushes, you need to think about the design of shelters. I had an experience when in late autumn I had to be distracted by replanting a four-year-old Ottawa barberry, which interfered with the cover of the roses. As a result, due to the complexity of the work and lack of time, a barberry hole was left near the rose garden, water accumulated, and the nearby roses got wet.
So I can recommend meth. Plant hydrangeas only as a “background” at a sufficient distance from the rose planting line - 1.5 meters.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea in the garden: care and propagation

Author Ziborova E. Yu.
Hortesia, or hydrangea (literally translated from Latin as “water vessel”) when created necessary conditions- semi-shaded or light location, fertile well-drained soil, abundant watering and protection from frost - generously rewards with its beautiful flowers.

Hydrangea bushes look great in the garden both in groups and in solitaire plantings. Through targeted formative pruning of rooted cuttings in for four seasons, you can grow a standard hydrangea tree.
Hydrangea suffers greatly from drought; Most species of hydrangeas that love partial shade slow down their growth in the sun, and their inflorescences become smaller. Hydrangea does not tolerate trampling - to improve root aeration, it is recommended to loosen the soil surface around the bushes at least 3 times a season to a depth of 5 cm.

Planting of bushes is carried out in early spring or autumn; in regions with a cold climate, and obtained from cuttings, hydrangeas are best planted in the spring. You need to add peat to the planting hole, add minerals and organic fertilizers. Before planting, slightly shorten the roots, and when spring planting Annual shoots are also shortened, leaving 3-4 pairs of buds on each. The planted bush is watered abundantly and the soil around it is mulched with peat or rotted leaves.

Regular fertilizing with slurry and fertilizers, combined with abundant watering, promotes the development of large leaves and flowers, but with excessive fertilization, very heavy inflorescences can break hydrangea branches. In adult bushes, inflorescences are pruned in the fall. In young bushes, it is better to cut out inflorescences, as well as weak and frozen shoots in the spring before the buds awaken, and not in the fall. In the spring, annual shoots are also shortened to 3-4 buds - this contributes to better wintering and lushness of the bush. Aging hydrangea bushes are rejuvenated by pruning to a stump or perennial wood; they will bloom in the first year after pruning, since hydrangea flowers begin and develop in the year of flowering.

Hydrangeas are propagated by seeds, layering, suckers, dividing bushes, and garden forms - by cuttings and grafting.
In the spring, small hydrangea seeds are sown in cold greenhouses or in boxes under glass without covering them with soil. To water them, it is better to use a sprayer to avoid washing away the seeds. The seedlings are picked into a greenhouse; the seedlings are transplanted into the soil onto a growing bed the following spring.

Green cuttings for propagating hydrangea are harvested in July, using thin elastic branches that thicken the crown. The cuttings are cut as usual (the upper cut is straight, the lower cut is oblique) with 2 internodes, the leaves are shortened by half. The cuttings are planted in a fertile substrate with top layer coarse sand in pots, or in a greenhouse under a film. Rooted cuttings are planted on a growing bed in August, or left to overwinter in pots in the basement, periodically moistening the soil, and in the spring they are planted in the ground in a growing bed. It is advisable to keep young plants in a greenhouse or growing bed for 2 years, constantly shading them and moistening the soil.

Flowers appearing on rooted cuttings must be plucked off. In the first year after planting in the ground, young plants are well covered for the winter.
Cuttings garden forms hydrangeas grafted onto the roots of the main species develop much faster than when rooted with green cuttings.

Ziborova E. Yu.
Gardenia. ru

This is the second winter she has to suffer in her apartment.
But where to go if it can’t survive in the ground in winter in the Urals, there is no basement, but the room is warm...
So it blooms with all its might. This is what she looked like at the end of November.

There is not enough space in the pot, so the flowers are small.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea and gardenia bloom

Last winter I put it between the frames for the winter. It's cool there and she didn't grow - she rested.
Only in the spring did the buds begin to open.

Spring 2013

Then she put it on a warm windowsill - and she burst into growth.

I, as a caring mother, decided to feed this baby. And I almost lost it!
It turned out that the mineral food that everyone else eats with pleasure houseplants, for example, gardenia, she did not like.
Within an hour after watering, I noticed that the leaves seemed to be boiled. Only those at the top remained intact.

I urgently rushed to wash the lump.

I spilled 5 liters of settled water. I just watered and waited for the liquid to come out into the pan. And watered it again. Until the water came out completely clean.
It was not possible to replant into fresh acidic soil: the entire lump was tightly entwined with roots. Here you can only rinse from an overdose.
And who could have known that she was such a sissy! After all, the concentration was very small. I haven’t read anywhere that it needs to be fed very carefully in the spring. My friends already enlightened me after I did something stupid.

I had to tear off all the burnt leaves. The two large ones still had slightly “scalded” edges around the edges.

But still she forgave me and grew the first bud.

I searched the Internet for a long time for the name of my variety and this is what I found out.

It turns out that my hydrangea is a special case. From a botanical point of view, it refers to large-leaved hydrangeas that bloom on last year's shoots.
But mine belongs to the “Endless Summer” group: unlike other large-leaved varieties, it blooms well as if on shoots current year, and last year’s.

This is important news for me, because I have to store it in the winter in a window-sill refrigerator, where a large bush can hardly fit. But the circumcised one is fine.
So my white variety"The Bride" belongs to the same selection series. You can cut the branches, you don’t have to cut them - it’s your choice. In any case, it will bloom every year. Which made me very happy.

I'm waiting for something like this to happen :-)

And now the leaves are already twice as large.
I moved from a liter pot to a three liter one.

Summer 2014

Instead of three branches, it now has five main branches and several side ones.
Here in the photo below is the same - in a basin with a diameter of 50 cm.
You understand that this can no longer fit between the frames :-)

But at the end of summer, I washed the leaves from dust and put them in a 50 cm basin - this is how big the bush has become.
Next spring I will plant it in the flower garden.

August 2014

She is very hot in the apartment. In order not to wither away completely, you have to add additional lighting.

But in principle my experience proves that garden hydrangea can also be saved in warm room in winter.
And it will even bloom with additional lighting.

I have had experience growing hydrangeas in the past. Below in the picture is a pink hydrangea that I grew from a tiny cutting.

Hydrangea cuttings

Within a year it had grown to a decent size - the main growth was in the summer.

Pink hydrangea summer 2008 G.

But in winter it dropped all its leaves.
And since I didn’t have additional lamps at that time, it began to wither, and I threw it away.
Or it could have been saved by placing it under lamps.

And I could grow a bush like Galina’s - she grows 15 liters in a pot. Moscow region.

Gardeners often ask the question: “What ornamental shrubs do they bloom all summer?” Without hesitation, I can name three of my favorites - the queen rose, the charming cinquefoil and the beautiful hydrangea. Today we are talking about hydrangea. Its luxurious caps of flowers cover the entire bush from June to late autumn, depending on the variety.Species such as tree-like, paniculata and new varieties of large-leaved hydrangea grow and winter well in our climate. Large-leaved hydrangea of ​​the “Endless summer” and “Forever and ever” series are remontant. If the flower buds that these hydrangeas lay in the fall even freeze, you will only lose the first early flowering. The bush will bloom on the shoots of the current year, only a little later. The shrub amazes with its durability and endurance. Hydrangea is undemanding in care and is rarely affected by pests and diseases. Use in landscape design It has limitless possibilities. But it’s just a miracle how good she is!
The choice of hydrangea varieties is now huge. We invite you to winter time place an order for the ones you like. Now you can purchase hydrangea seedlings with a closed root system, which you can safely plant in open ground until mid-autumn.
So, the variety has been selected and the seedling has been purchased. We are faced with the question: where and how to plant it so that our beauty becomes the favorite of the garden and pleases for a long time lush flowering. Despite its unpretentiousness, the plant will still require care and attention.
- For planting, choose a sufficiently lit place, but without scorching sun rays, a weakly sunny area. The most shade-tolerant of hydrangeas is tree-like. An “openwork” shade is suitable, which can be provided by hydrangea’s faithful companions - conifers or other shrubs. The distance from them to the seedling is at least 1.5 meters. Otherwise, the hydrangea root system will always need moisture and nutrition, which will be taken away by the powerful roots of the trees. The place should be quiet, windless, where there will be a lot of snow in winter.
- I prepare a planting hole of 50*50 cm. The distance between the bushes is 1.5-2 m. Even though the bush in your pot is not very large, take the trouble to dig a “decent” hole and fill it well. We plant the plant for years!
- When buying a seedling, pay attention to the presence of buds. If they are not there, good! It will take root better and grow the root system faster. Sapling with buds. You can’t raise your hand to trim them. I would like to see flowering in the first year of planting! Then do not suddenly change the growing conditions of the plant. In order for such hydrangeas to bloom magnificently in the future and grow their root system, when planting, the soil in the area of ​​20-25 cm must be ideally close to the substrate in which the seedling grew in the pot. Avoid sudden changes in soil structure. Water strictly once every 10 days with “Gumistar” fertilizer - an aqueous extract from vermicompost. Effective when used in evening time, as it contains not only vitamins and amino acids, but also living soil microorganisms (sunlight kills them).
- Soil mixture. Hydrangea amateur acidic soil, pH within 5.5 units. If the indicator is 6,7,8 units or more, the plant will always have problems with absorption nutrients. As a result, chlorosis of the leaves will begin and the bush will stop developing. I mix in equal parts garden soil, high-moor peat, rotted pine litter, I add compost or, better yet, vermicompost. For loosening we use sand, agroperlite, and coconut peat. I prefer finely chopped sphagnum moss or rotted pine bark, which will create an ideal structure for the soil. The soil must be loose, air- and water-permeable, and must not contain alkaline compounds. You cannot add ash, chalk, or lime.
- Translated from Latin hydrangea – hydrangia – a vessel with water. She really likes to drink. In order not to constantly stand over it with a watering can, and this is especially important for those who do not live in the country permanently, I use hydrogel. This is a polymer in granules that can absorb and retain in a swollen state a huge amount of moisture with nutrients dissolved in it (for example, I use “Gumistar” or the drug “Dachnik”). Moisture does not drain into the underlying soil layers and does not evaporate. This allows you to water plants, especially moisture-loving ones, much less frequently. Reduces the loss of nutrients and prevents their leaching from the soil. The gel envelops the roots of the plant and food is always nearby.
- Before planting, I soak the seedling in a solution of the growth stimulator HB-101, 15-20 drops per 10 liters of soft water (for hydrangea we do not use hard water from the tap, we settle it, preferably rain water) until the lump becomes heavy and no longer stands out air bubbles from it. I take out the plants and lightly shake the root system with my hands so that the spores of symbiont fungi from the soil in which the seedling grows quickly settle in the new habitat of the bush.
- To the bottom landing pit I fill the drainage with a layer of 7-10 cm. I put the seedling in the hole and fill it halfway with prepared soil. We water it generously with the solution in which the plant was soaked. This way we will avoid voids. The water has been absorbed, I add soil mixture and compact the soil. I deepen the root collar by 1-2 cm, no more.
- I make a circle near the trunk, where I then pour water until the hydrangea takes root. I spill soil within a radius of 1.5 meters around the seedling. The root system of the shrub is superficial and branched.
- On the soil in tree trunk circle I lay out HB-101 granules, which will work until the fall, providing the plant with excellent immunity.
- Immediately mulch with a layer of up to 10 cm. Mulch - best friend gardener Protects from drying out, serves as additional nutrition, prevents fungal and viral diseases. Yes and earthworms love to live under it. The best mulch for hydrangea is high-moor peat mixed with pine litter in a 1:1 ratio, rotted pine bark. If these materials are not available, mulch not with freshly cut grass, but with “withered” grass so that it does not touch the root collar of the plant. I water the mulch once every 10 days with a solution of the Vostok EM-1 preparation, 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of non-chlorinated water.

Love your beauty, take care of her and she will respond to you with colorful, lush blooms.
The seedling is planted. How to care for it? We will talk about this in the next article: “Menu for the “Beautiful Lady” of the garden”

Zoya Maksimenko,

FERTILITY, Chelyabinsk

To perennial ornamental plants pleased the owners of the site abundant flowering, they need to provide good conditions and in Russian frosts. Overwintering large-leaved hydrangea in the basement allows you to protect the buds on last year's shoots from freezing. Thanks to this, the gardener can enjoy the flowering of the shrub almost the entire season.

Basement preparation

Before transferring the hydrangea for storage, the basement must be prepared in the same way as for planting a root crop harvest:

If the basement in which the hydrangea will winter is intended for storing vegetables and pickles, then it is best to give the plant a place where the temperature does not rise above +2...+3°C. You should not place a container with large-leaved hydrangea where there is air flow from the incoming ventilation hole. Due to the constant draft and changing conditions outside, fluctuations in the temperature of the earthen coma will be too sharp. This can lead to freezing of the root system or early awakening of the buds.

When wintering in a cellar, you should pay attention to the humidity in the room. Large-leaved hydrangeas that are sensitive to dampness are easily subject to rot if stored in too damp a place. If the temperature in the basement or other room where the plant overwinters is higher than indicated, then shoot growth will begin in mid-winter. Large-leaved hydrangea will not die if forced early, but it will need lighting and watering, which will cause unnecessary trouble for the owner.

You can reduce humidity by ventilating the basement (through a window or open ventilation). To adjust its level, it is also suitable quicklime, containers with which must be placed in the basement. Ventilation helps regulate temperature.

The container in which young large-leaved hydrangea will overwinter must have good drainage holes so that water stagnation does not occur during winter watering. If there is a suitable container for big bush I don’t have it on the farm; it can be replaced very well by spandbond or lutrasil, wrapped several times around a ball of earth. Cannot be used for this purpose plastic film: airtight material will lead to insufficient ventilation of the root system and its heating.

Preparation for storage

The key to a good winter is the maturity of the wood of the shoots. To achieve this, you need to start preparing large-leaved hydrangeas for the dormant period in September. At this time, the gardener removes some of the leaves from below. They need to be removed to about ½ the height of the bush. Many varieties large leaf hydrangea At this time they are still blooming, but removing the foliage does not affect the decorativeness of the plant.

After the first frost or in case of a persistent drop in temperature to +5... 0°C in deciduous heat-loving plants vegetation stops. This can be easily recognized by changes in color or falling leaves. Large-leaved hydrangea stops flowering, but cannot shed its foliage on its own.

At this time (for central Russia - early October) the next stage of preparation for winter begins:

• you need to remove the remains of hydrangea inflorescences from the shoots;
• cut off the remaining leaves from the stems;
• feed the plant with a fertilizer solution with phosphorus and potassium.

When removing foliage, you need to trim the petiole, leaving a small part of it on the stem. After 7-10 days, these residues will fall off on their own. Before transferring them to storage, you need to make sure that they do not remain on the branches, as their presence will lead to the appearance of mold.

Do not cut or break the ends of the shoots. Varieties of large-leaved hydrangea belonging to the Endless Summer or Forever and Ever series begin their first flowering in May-June, on last year’s branches. To prevent the buds from freezing during preparation for storage, leaves should be left at the ends of the shoots. At proper wintering buds with embedded buds are well preserved.

How to dig up a hydrangea bush?

Large-leaved hydrangea should be stored with a lump of earth, the volume of which may be large. To give the plant time to go into dormancy, dig it up in the fall after the air temperature drops to 0°C. Before digging, you need to remove some of the old shoots.

Hydrangea should be dug in a circle at a distance of about 40 cm from the center of an adult bush up to 1 m high. If the bush is small, the earthen lump can be the size of the projection of the crown of a large-leaved hydrangea.

Deepen the ditch by 40-50 cm and begin digging up the root system from below. This should be done with an assistant who will support the large-leaved hydrangea in a comfortable position and help remove the heavy bush from the hole.

Gardeners often leave hydrangeas directly in containers, taking them out into the garden in the summer. In this case, digging up the bushes will not be required. It will only be needed for transshipment into a larger container. This procedure is performed as needed.

Methods for storing large-leaved hydrangea

If there is no basement or cellar, then the large-leaved hydrangea bush can be preserved until spring in other ways:

1. On an insulated veranda or loggia, where temperature fluctuations are insignificant, hydrangeas will winter no worse than in the basement. During cold wintering, light and watering are not required (or you can cover the soil surface with snow once every 2 weeks). With warming and early awakening of the buds, you should not try to transfer large-leaved hydrangea to even more warm room or increase watering. The bush is still dormant, and leaf development will not occur at temperatures up to +10°C.
2. Small bushes or seedlings with flowers and leaves purchased in winter can even be kept in a room. It is better to place them on the windowsill and provide additional lighting. It can be predicted with a high degree of confidence that they will have to be hardened for a long time before planting in the ground. This method of caring for flowers involves taking the pot of large-leaved hydrangea out into the fresh air, first for 30-40 minutes a day. The time the flower stays outside is gradually increased.
3. It is difficult to place a large plant when wintering in the basement or on the veranda without pruning. But don’t worry: large-leaved hydrangeas also bloom on the current year’s shoots. Therefore, for the winter, the bush can be pruned at a height of 20-30 cm from the soil level. IN such a case flowering will begin in the second half of summer (August-October).

Preparing for planting in spring

Large-leaved hydrangea is planted only after the return frosts, which also occur in April. Vegetative seedlings are planted in late spring, after preliminary hardening and acclimation to open sunlight.

You can get large-leaved hydrangeas out of the basement no earlier than March. Raise the temperature gradually. Large-leaved hydrangea needs to be watered room temperature. The next watering should be done in 7-10 days. When watering, dissolve in water complex fertilizer(Kemira, Fertik, etc.).

How to care for planted hydrangea?

Before planting in the ground, you can prune and shape the bush. It is advisable to remove branches that are broken, weathered or have not survived the winter as soon as the buds begin to swell.

Among the gardener's current problems are late frosts after a relatively warm period. Until mid-May, you should monitor the weather reports, and in case of cold weather, cover the planted bushes with spudbond. This can be done in the same way as coniferous shelter is made:

• install a frame made of wire or wooden slats near the bush;
• pull covering material over it;
• when severe frost(below -5°C) additionally cover the large-leaved hydrangea with burlap or cardboard.

If a successfully overwintered hydrangea can be protected from spring freezing, it will begin to bloom at the end of May.

Conclusion

How to preserve hydrangea in winter can only be understood from personal experience. With careful care of the plant in winter, it is easy to notice under what conditions the buds begin to awaken on large-leaved hydrangea, after which winter the flowering is most abundant, and how you can lose all the buds due to spring frost. Subject to simple rules In preparation for wintering and planting in central Russia, the most capricious varieties of large-leaved hydrangea will be able to grow.