home · Networks · Transplanting ornamental shrubs in August. How to properly transplant a fruit bush to a new location? New from users

Transplanting ornamental shrubs in August. How to properly transplant a fruit bush to a new location? New from users

There is no clear answer to the question of when to replant a berry crop. Some gardeners argue that there is only one option - replanting currants in the fall, when there are no leaves, the movement of juice slows down, and the plant is ready for wintering.

The need to transplant currants arises in the following cases:

In each listed case, the transplantation rules and work procedure are similar.

Before answering the question of when you can replant currants, you should first choose a new place for the bush. This berry culture loves sunlight and heat, so shaded areas cannot be used. If there is little heat and light, the number of berries will decrease, and the bush will be susceptible to various diseases. It is not recommended to immerse the roots of the plant in strong wet soil– it will not grow. It is better to choose moderately moist black soil containing some loam and, if possible, make drainage in the hole.


This berry crop loves sunlight and warmth, so shaded areas cannot be used.

It is not advisable for the bush to be on the second tier. Its leaves are susceptible to diseases, and the fungus found in most berry and fruit crops can harm the crop. Transplantation can be done on partially sandy soil - the bush grows and develops better in it. Carefully dig up the place where currants will grow in the future, remove all debris, weeds and roots of old plants.

Rules for transplanting currants

If you decide to replant a berry crop, carefully prepare for this process. The yield of the bush depends on the correctness of your actions.

In the selected area, you should dig holes, placing them at a distance of one to one and a half meters from each other. Pour fertile soil, humus, potash, phosphate fertilizers or wood ash inside. The prepared soil should be nutritious and sufficiently loose. To transplant red currants, it is advisable to add sand to the soil and arrange drainage in the form of a small layer of crushed stone at the bottom of the hole. The size of the holes should be at least fifty centimeters wide and thirty centimeters deep, but it is better to focus on the size of the roots.


The size of the holes should be at least fifty centimeters wide and thirty centimeters deep, but it is better to focus on the size of the roots.

The berry crop needs to be prepared for replanting: young shoots are cut in half and old branches are cut to the ground. The bush is carefully dug up and taken out of the ground. There is no need to pull the shoots - this can damage the roots or branches. If it was not possible to remove the plant the first time, it is dug up again with one and a half to two bayonets of a shovel.


The berry crop needs to be prepared for transplanting

If the bush is healthy, it can be removed along with a lump of earth and replanted immediately. But if it is sick, carefully examine the roots, remove damaged and dry ones, and remove the larvae of pests and insects living in the root system of the plant. After this, treat the roots with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Pour into the hole a large number of water so that the soil mixture looks like a liquid substance. Immerse the bush in the slurry and, holding it suspended, sprinkle it with dry soil five to eight centimeters above the root collar. Water again to compact the soil around the roots. The distance between the bushes should be at least one hundred and fifty centimeters so that they do not shade each other. The transplanted plant needs routine care: regular watering, spraying and nutritional feeding.


Pour a large amount of water into the hole so that the soil mixture looks like a liquid substance.

How to replant currants in the fall

For all gardeners, the question is when is it better to replant currants in order to quickly get good harvest. In the northern regions, replanting is advisable in the spring, when the snow melts and the temperature outside is above zero. But if the bushes have already begun to grow, it is better to postpone replanting until autumn.

The procedure requires a certain patience, since the bush must shed its leaves and the sap flow in the shoots must stop. For middle zone The optimal period is mid-to-late October. In the north - two to three weeks later. If you move the bushes early, the currants may confuse the seasons and begin to grow and throw out buds. In winter they will freeze and weaken the plant. During dry and warm autumn, transplanted shrubs require constant watering.

Winter shelter is mandatory. You can pour three buckets of old humus mixed with leaves into the base of the bush ornamental trees. By spring, a fertile and loose layer of soil will form around the plant, in which you can arrange a watering bowl. Shrubs planted in the fall become accustomed to the new location over the winter and take root in order to produce a harvest in the summer. If currant bushes are transplanted in the spring, they take a long time to take root and produce berries only after a year.

Transplantation in spring

During this period, the rooted cuttings are transplanted - they are transferred to permanent place from the nursery trench. If the cuttings were planted in the fall, in the spring they will be twigs with two or three leaves.

If the plant was cut from spring, by the time of transplantation well-developed bushes with two or three shoots should form. They are very easy to replant, but the plant must be dug up along with a lump of earth to minimize the risk of damage to the roots. Bushes transplanted in spring require proper care and good watering throughout the summer. Mature shrubs are replanted as early as possible - in mid or late March.

In summer, replanting currants is not advisable, but possible. Mature bushes need to be dug up with a ball of earth - it should be as large as possible. To carry it to a new place, use basins, buckets and boxes. They need to be selected taking into account the size of the roots. After planting the shrub in a prepared hole, water it thoroughly for several days.


To carry it to a new place, use basins, buckets and boxes.

Seedlings from containers can be transplanted at any time of the year. It is important to provide them good watering, fertilizing and fertilizers using ammonium nitrate. Immediately after planting, the area should be mulched using peat, compost, humus or sand - they will help retain moisture. If the planting holes are prepared well, fertilizing will be needed only after a year.

Regardless of the time of the procedure, it is necessary to cut off as much of the vegetative mass as possible from the transplanted bushes, and leave two or three buds for propagation.


If the planting holes are prepared well, fertilizing will be needed only after a year.

Otherwise, the plant will slow down and take a long time to gain momentum.

Abundant watering is required. For the first two weeks, you can safely create a swamp, that is, keep the roots in water. The longer this process takes place, the higher the likelihood of getting a rich harvest. But you cannot keep the roots in water for more than three weeks, as they may rot.

In the first year, the crown should be formed correctly so that there is a minimum of growth and all branches stretch upward. Further care is carried out in the fall: all old branches are cut out, the bush is directed in the right direction.

Transplanting black currants is possible in autumn, spring and even summer. He optimal time for such work – mid-October. Therefore, if you want to collect a lot of berries, follow the above recommendations.

Sooner or later, almost every summer resident thinks about whether it is possible to transplant a bush to a new place without harming the plant. Let's talk about how to transplant big bush and help the plant survive this stress.

The need to replant an adult plant may arise when it is necessary to rejuvenate an old shrub or if the plot of land on which the plant grows has become depleted and the yield has decreased significantly.

How to replant a currant bush

First you need to decide on the timing of transplanting currants. For northern regions, the optimal time for this procedure is spring, immediately after the snow melts, before the plant begins to grow. This is usually from mid to late March. If you did not have time to replant the bush while it is still in hibernation, it is better to postpone the work until the fall, approximately until mid-November.

IN as a last resort, you can replant a currant bush in the summer. In this case, the plant is watered daily for several days.

In the middle zone, mature currant bushes are usually replanted in the fall, from mid to late October. When choosing a new location for an adult currant bush, remember that this plant does not like to be in the shade, so it is best to plant the bush away from walls, fences and trees with a wide crown.

2-3 weeks before the start of transplantation, the area where the currants will be moved needs to be dug up, removing weeds and old roots. If there are several bushes, then the holes (50-60 cm in diameter and 30-40 cm in depth) are located at a distance of at least 1-1.5 m from each other. Place in each hole drainage layer(for example, broken bricks or small stones), then add a mixture of fertile soil and fertilizers (1 bucket of compost, humus or peat, 40-50 g of potassium sulfate, 150-200 g of superphosphate).

When transplanting red currants, add a little sand to the nutrient mixture or fill the drainage layer with it.

The bush must be prepared for a stressful procedure for it. To do this, old dried branches are cut off completely, and young shoots are cut in half. The currant bush must be dug over a radius of 30 cm to a depth of 1.5-2 shovels, then the plant must be carefully removed from the hole, trying not to pull the branches. If there is a suspicion that the bush is affected by a disease, the root system is carefully examined, damaged roots are removed, insect larvae are removed and the roots are treated with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate. A healthy bush is dug up along with a lump of earth and transplanted to a new place.

3-4 buckets of water are poured into the prepared pit so that the nutrient mixture becomes liquid. The bush is placed in the center of the planting hole and, holding it, is covered with earth so that the root collar is buried 6-8 cm into the ground. The final stage– abundant watering of the bush and compaction of the soil around the plant.

Regarding how to replant gooseberry bushes, there are no fundamental differences from replanting currant bushes, so to perform this procedure, you can safely follow the advice above.

How to replant a grape bush

The most suitable time to transplant a grape bush to a new place is autumn. When the leaves fall from the bush, you can start “moving”. It is important to do everything before frost arrives, so as not to harm the roots of the grapes. If time is lost, you can replant the grapes in the spring, before sap flow begins.

Transplanting grapes begins with pruning: 2 sleeves with young vines (1-2 years old) on them are left on the bush, the upper shoots are cut into 2-3 eyes, the cuts are covered with varnish. After this, the bush is dug in a circle (radius - 50 cm) and the plant is removed from the hole. Then the rhizome is freed from the ground, the cuts are renewed, the old roots are removed, and the young and strong ones (2-3 years old) are left.

A layer of gravel and sand is poured into the dug hole, and a heap of fertile soil is placed on top. Before planting, pour 1-2 buckets of water into it. The roots of the plant are dipped in clay mash and lay the bush at an angle in landing hole along with the sleeves.

Young grape bushes (1-3 years) are transplanted to a new location using the transshipment method, that is, the plant is moved into a hole bigger size along with a lump of earth. 2-3 days before transshipment, stop watering the bush so that the lump does not crumble. In this case, there is no need to trim the roots.

Annual vines are brought up slightly above ground level and continue to fill the hole, also adding water. Then the soil is compacted and watered again. In order for the grape bush to recover faster after transplanting to another place, in the first year you need to remove all the inflorescences, and in the second year - a third of the inflorescences.

How to replant a raspberry bush

Due to the fact that the soil is depleted over time, many gardeners prefer to replant raspberry bushes to a new location every 5-6 years. Like other shrubs, raspberries best tolerate autumn replanting (optimal for the middle zone), but replanting in the spring is also allowed. To ensure that the productivity of the raspberry plant does not decrease after the “move”, it is necessary to carry out the procedure carefully and correctly.

Raspberries are a light-loving plant, so they need to be planted in well-lit areas. Good predecessors for raspberries: cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes.

First, prepare the place where the raspberry bushes will grow. Dig up the soil and loosen it, remove weeds. The diameter of the hole for the bush should be 40-50 cm, the depth - 30-40 cm, the distance between the rows of bushes - at least 50-60 cm. Add 4-5 kg ​​of rotted manure into the hole, then a mixture of fertile soil with fertilizers: 40 g potassium sulfate and 70 g of superphosphate.

For replanting, select the most powerful and healthy bushes with stems with a diameter of at least 1 cm and cut the shoots to a height of 1 m from the ground. Dig up the plant along with the root system and transfer it to the “new” hole. Place the bush in the center of the hole and fill with the remaining soil to ground level. Compact the soil and water the plant generously. After this, tie the raspberry shoots to a support (for example, a wooden peg), and mulch the soil with humus or compost.

Popular spring bushes in the garden - decorative and fruit. Read: When to replant shrubs in spring?

Shrubs are replanted in the garden during redevelopment, if it is necessary to update and treat the plant or if the planting site was chosen poorly. When to replant shrubs in the spring?

Planting of fruit bushes is carried out in the fall, if winter period allows young, immature plants to withstand cold weather. Woody flowering shrubs are planted in the spring, flowering, more delicate species - in late spring. It is better to replant shrubs in the spring how the earth warms up and settles comfortable temperature air. During the same period, grown in containers basics for planting. Remember that shrubs vary by flowering period. Early – viburnum, wolf berries, rowan, Further– serviceberry, forsythia, quince, almond, and finally- spirea, lilac. In summer, barberry, scumpia, hibiscus, deutzia, etc. already bloom. Accordingly, the earlier the shrub blooms, the earlier it is replanted.

When to replant shrubs in spring:

  • In early spring before sap flow begins;
  • On warm soil;

Before transplanting shrubs, the gardener should have time to prepare the ground, form a planting site, renew fertilizers, and move the shrubs.

Preparing a site for transplanting shrubs in spring

Before digging a hole for replanting shrubs in the spring, the soil is fertilized and loosened. When planting plants from containers - suddenly the shrubs are just starting to live in your garden - you need to take into account their history: did they spend their whole lives like this, waiting for the bright hour of planting, or were they moved for a while for transportation? In peat mixtures– convenient for transportation – root system Many shrubs dry out quickly. Taking into account the available indicators, land preparation is carried out.

Shrubs growing in the garden are removed with a shovel, wrapped in polyethylene or a bag, and transferred to a new planting hole, which the gardener has to make.

Land for replanting shrubs in spring:

  • Loose, well-drained soil;
  • 40% sand – steamed;
  • Pour fertilizer into the hole according to the size of the roots: 70 grams of lime, 30 grams mineral fertilizers per m2;

Step-by-step replanting of shrubs in spring

Landing location fertilized and cleared of weeds. After a week, a hole is dug to the size of the bush. On the day of transplantation, the shrub is removed from the old hole using a garden shovel, trimmed and processed as necessary.

Pack the root system You can wrap it in burlap or film: transfer it to a pre-spread place, wrap the roots. Drag or move the bush to a new hole in which fertilizer has already been placed. If the bush needs to be given a stimulus, then the planting hole is dug one and a half times larger than the previous one - in width and depth.

Before as replant shrubs in spring, fluff the material at the bottom. If you forget to fertilize, use ingredients that you often have on hand - compost, for example. Fill the bottom of the hole, pour a small layer of soil from the site on top.

The transplant is carried out, both small and mature shrubs, so do not forget to take care of the base - drive a stake or build a lattice along which the bush is supposed to branch.

Place the plant vertically, exposing the roots, tying the base to the support, if necessary, and fix the root hole with a mound of earth for stability. The entire hole for replanting shrubs must be filled with earth.

Shed after transplanting the shrub in the spring with water, covering +15 cm around the hole.

↓ Write in the comments about your replanting of shrubs in the spring.

Transplanting currants in spring - important event for culture. Since after 5 - 7 years of its growth in the area, the berries become smaller, young shoots grow less intensively, the foliage changes its usual color to yellow and falls from the bushes already in August. Our article will tell summer residents what the goals of spring replanting are, the features of the process, and how to properly prepare a place for the crop. But we will also consider FAQ and mistakes of gardeners.

Why should currant bushes be transplanted to a new location in spring? There are good reasons for this. Among them are the desire to propagate the variety of currants you like, the presence of signs of disease in the bushes (if treatment has not yielded results), when the crops have grown excessively and interfere with the normal development of each other.

The need for transplantation arises due to changes in the level groundwater(when the depth of their location becomes smaller), if the crown of the tree growing near the currant has grown very much and provides shade. Or a new facility has been built, when the condition of the bush is being updated due to its advanced age. It is also possible to transplant the plant from depleted soil filled with toxins to more fertile soil. So that the currants can continue to grow normally and fully develop.

Features of spring transplantation

Many gardeners are interested in whether we are doing the right thing when we replant shrubs in the fall or spring? It should be noted that the procedure is permissible in both periods of the year. It is important to focus on the condition of the plant. In autumn, it is customary to replant it after all the foliage has fallen. In the spring, this is done until the buds appear and the currants begin to grow.

Many experienced summer residents They call replanting in the spring rather a forced measure. This is supported by the fact that plants do not experience such severe stress. How to properly replant currants in spring? To do this, you should wait until the earth warms up well. The temperature of its layer should be at least 5 degrees Celsius. If it was not possible to carry out work in the spring, it should be postponed until the fall or spring of next year.

In order for the bushes to survive the procedure normally, it is recommended to move their roots along with the soil. After replanting, mulching with potash fertilizers, humus, loose peat, wood ash, sawdust and dry grass is mandatory. To establish, the bushes require watering with sun-warmed water or water at room temperature.

Preparing a new place

For planting, it is important to choose a normally sunny and fairly spacious place. The hole should be dug deep enough to allow room for the root system. Remember that it is easier to root in loose soil. Organic fertilizers or compost must be poured into the bottom of the pit. After digging, water should be poured into the hole. When it is absorbed a little, it is permissible to plant the bush. If the soil absorbs the liquid quickly, you need to water it again.

Soil preparation should be carried out a couple of weeks before the planned replanting. After digging, it is cleared of grass and weed rhizomes. The holes should measure 40 by 40 cm (relevant for young plants). For adults, size calculation is based on overgrown roots. Considering the age of the bush, the depth of its placement in the ground is usually 30–50 cm. A trench is made for several plants, where they are planted at a distance of up to 1.5 meters.

If there is heavy soil, care should be taken to ensure good drainage. To do this, add sand, crushed stone or cuttings in small quantities to the hole. Two thirds of the holes must be filled with soil, to which humus and compost are added.

Currants respond gratefully to fertilizers such as nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. If the transplant is carried out to a place with high acidity soil, adding chalk, dolomite, slaked lime, and ash will help correct the situation. To dig up a bush from its usual place, you should carefully dig around it in a circle, maintaining a depth of up to 50 cm. Do not pull the plants by the top part. It is transferred to a new hole together with a lump of earth on the roots. For disinfection purposes, it is recommended to pre-treat them with potassium permanganate.

FAQ

There are a number of questions that many gardeners often ask:

  • Question No. 1. Is it possible to replant bushes that are 3 to 5 years old? Or is it preferable to take them from cuttings?
    This is allowed. It would be correct to dig up the bushes and carefully drag them to a new place without damaging the roots along with the lump of earth. Upper part crops are advised to be trimmed and properly deepened. After the procedure, sufficient watering is important for normal establishment.
  • Question No. 2. Is it permissible to replant young seedlings in the place where old bushes grew and where they were uprooted?
    Practice shows that it is better to allocate a new place for them. Since it is possible that the land will become infected with diseases, as well as its depletion.
  • Question No. 3. What crops can normally exist next to currants?
    It is recommended to plan planting garlic and onions near the bushes. They will become reliable protection currants from possible pest attacks and infections. It is best not to replant the bush under fruit trees. It is not recommended to place them near raspberries and gooseberries.
  • Question No. 4. Do bushes that were planted in the fall require an earthing procedure?
    Yes, it would be useful to carry it out for the purpose of normal insulation. But in the spring the embankment will have to be leveled. Since the plants will begin to produce side shoots. Over the course of the summer, the soil in the place where the hilling was carried out will dry out. As a result, the superficial root system of currants risks dying or being damaged by frost in the future.
  • Question No. 5. Is it necessary to trim the ground part of the transplanted bush?
    It is possible to do this. But remember that in this case the take-up will not be too fast.

Mistakes gardeners make

Sometimes when transplanting currants experienced gardeners make the same type of mistakes. For example, they replant the crop to the same depth as in the old place. It would be correct to place the plant in the ground to a depth that exceeds the previous one by 5 - 7 cm.

Also, watering shrubs is often insufficient. After replanting, the plants should be watered abundantly. Then you can count on their normal restoration and increased productivity.

But at the same time, it is important to avoid over-flooding the selected location. Some summer residents, in pursuit of intensive growth of currants and a large number of berries, are able to overdo it with fertilizing. Even high-quality fertilizers in quantities that exceed those allowed and indicated on the packaging can harm crops rather than benefit them.

Video “Transplanting and rejuvenation of currants”

From this video you will learn how to properly replant and rejuvenate currants.

This procedure is sometimes carried out by gardeners on their plots. There are many reasons to transplant already formed plants to a new location: for example, soil conditions (often together with climate conditions). It happens that the place where the bush has grown for several years begins to be flooded with melt or rainwater, or the bush suddenly begins to freeze every year. Or the conditions are purely domestic, when, for example, a neighbor built a fence, and now your bush is in the shade, or the bird cherry tree has grown so large that the currant bush growing nearby no longer has enough space.


One way or another, we are faced with the task of transplanting the bush to a new location. And at the same time, you need to do this so that after transplantation the bush does not take root for too long and quickly bears fruit again.

At first glance, everything seems banal and simple: the bush needs to be dug up and replanted, but in reality, everything is far from being so. Often, after such a transplant, shrubs simply die or get sick and take a very long time to take root.

In order for everything to go smoothly, we present in this article general recommendations for transplantation, we'll give you a few important advice, and then we will analyze the transplantation scheme for each group of shrubs.

Choosing a location. You need to pick it up before you start transplanting. This time, try to choose the most suitable place, not flooded with melt or rain water, not in dense shade, with nutritious and loose soil. Be sure to choose a place based on cultural characteristics. Let's say blueberries love acidic and moist soil, and currants love neutral and moderately moist soil, and so on.

Prepare the planting hole. Of course, it is difficult to calculate what it should be when the roots of the bush are still in the soil, but you can dig a larger hole, say one meter wide and deep. Such a hole will fit the root system of most shrubs. And if the roots are still cramped, then the hole can be quickly expanded; this will still be faster than digging a hole when the roots of the bush have already been removed from the soil.

When digging up a shrub, do not start digging out the roots directly from the trunk(s), but first dig in the perimeter(carefully, trying not to damage the roots). Decide on the area where they are located and, digging up the side roots, slowly move closer to the center of the bush. After this, you can simply pry the bush with a shovel and remove it from the soil.

Digging up and replanting any shrub, try to keep as many roots intact as possible and leave it as long as possible more soil on them. There is no need to shake off the soil, much less wash the roots with water. It can even be dangerous, especially if it's hot outside.

After digging up and planting any shrub in a new place, it needs to be provided with constant watering so that the soil does not dry out. At the same time, you should not turn the soil into a swamp; it is enough to just keep the soil moist. Watering can be combined with fertilizing, adding a tablespoon of nitroammophoska in the spring, a teaspoon of potassium sulfate and superphosphate in the middle of summer, and in the autumn it is useful to mulch the soil surface in the bush area with wood ash (200-250 g per plant). Ash can be applied to any shrubs except blueberries, because ash can deoxidize the soil.

Transfer time. For these purposes, it is better to choose late autumn or early spring, but if you are replanting very large shrubs, then this can be done in winter. In summer, replanting plants even with a lump of earth is very risky, especially if you do not have the opportunity to provide the shrub with sufficient moisture and nutrition after planting. By the way, about nutrition: the fertilizers that we gave in the example (with the exception of ash) are best applied dissolved in water.

Try to replant shrubs as quickly as possible. Remember: the faster the bush is back in the soil, the greater the chance of its rapid establishment in a new place. Usually, most of the time is spent on digging up shrubs, but planting is usually done in a matter of minutes. This must be taken into account and time allocated correctly.

We take out the bush with a lump of earth. We move the bush with a lump of earth to a new place. We plant the transplanted bush into the planting hole.

How to replant bushes of currants, gooseberries, honeysuckle, serviceberry, viburnum, blueberries and other similar crops

So, you need to replant the shrub with one of the specified species. Start with a choice optimal time for transplantation. We have already indicated the deadlines, but they may depend on your climate region. For example, in the northern regions, the optimal time to transplant shrubs is spring. Under no circumstances should you delay replanting: as soon as the snow melts, go to the site and replant so that the bush opens its buds when it wakes up in a new place. This increases the chances of success of your business many times over. It is advisable to complete the transplantation before the end of March, because during this period active sap flow in the plants begins. If you feel that you do not have time, then do not take risks; it is better to postpone the transplant until late autumn, that is, until mid-November.

As we have already indicated, shrubs can be replanted in the summer. This is risky, but if you can keep as many roots intact as possible, do not destroy the clod of earth, and can provide the shrub with moisture and nutrition in the future, then you can take the risk.

It will be easiest to dig up honeysuckle, blueberries and currants; gooseberries are more difficult (because of their thorns), but the hardest ones to dig up are shadberry and viburnum. If the viburnum bush is already more than five years old, and the serviceberry bush is more than seven years old, then it will be very difficult for you, since the root system of these plants is quite strong and penetrates to great depths. Here you can dig holes a meter wide, but it’s better to make them a meter and a half deep.

All these plants love open, well-lit areas and moderately moist soil. Blueberries prefer moist and acidic soil, this must be kept in mind; viburnum is tolerant of acid in the soil, but loves areas where there is more moisture.

Prepare the soil for planting in advance, dig up the soil with a shovel full, and remove the weeds. It is advisable to fertilize the soil, add 4-5 kg ​​of well-rotted manure and 250-300 g wood ash(just not for blueberries), you can also add a tablespoon of nitroammophoska per square meter. For blueberries, the soil should be mixed with sour peat in equal parts, or even better, dig a hole and line it from the inside plastic film, fill with sour peat and plant a blueberry bush in it.

When replanting several bushes of these plants, try to place them so that the distance between them is two meters, and if the bushes are very spreading, then three (in the case of shadberry, 3.5 meters is the norm).

Before digging, prepare a planting hole: pour expanded clay or broken brick into its base in a layer of a couple of centimeters, put a couple of shovels of a nutrient mixture on top, which can be prepared by mixing 5-6 kg of fertile soil, 2-3 kg of humus, 15-20 g of potassium sulfate and 90-100 g of superphosphate. Next, water the hole well and it will be ready to plant shrubs in it. By the way, when preparing a hole for planting red currants, you can add a couple of kilograms of river sand to the mixture.


The hole is ready, you can now begin moving the bush to a new location. By the way, about transferring: if the desired and final places are far from each other, then it is advisable to stock up on a tarpaulin so that the bush can be conveniently transferred, and not drag it by the shoots, risking breaking them (especially red currants).

Before digging, inspect the above-ground part: remove, by cutting into a ring, all the old shoots that no longer bear fruit, if any, dried out, and shorten the young growths by half.

Next, as we already advised, dig around the bush. For currants and gooseberries, you can retreat 30 centimeters from the base, for honeysuckle and blueberries, 20 cm is enough, for serviceberry and viburnum, you can retreat a little more - 35-40 cm. Having retreated the required distance, you need to carefully and gradually deepen the bayonet of the shovel by one and a half - two, then dig up the plant from all sides and slowly, moving towards the center, try to remove it from the soil. If you come across several powerful and long lateral roots along the way, then it is quite possible to cut them off.

Remember that all the described crops have very fragile shoots that are easily torn from the roots, so when digging a plant from the soil, do not pull the shoots, try to pry up the roots with a shovel and pull them.

As soon as the bush is removed from the soil, you need to act without delay, otherwise the roots may dry out. You should moisten the soil in the planting hole by pouring three or four buckets of water and install the roots on this nutrient liquid. When planting, we strongly recommend placing the bushes relative to the cardinal directions, as they grew before. This is easy to understand: shoots from the south side are usually darker, as if tanned, and shoots from the north are lighter (paler).

You need to place the bush in the hole so that it is in the center, so that the roots are evenly distributed over the hole, do not ride up or break, and so that the root collar is immersed in the soil a couple of centimeters. After planting, all that remains is to compact the soil, water it with a couple of buckets of water and mulch it with a layer of humus a couple of centimeters deep.

How to replant a bush of grapes, actinidia, lemongrass and other vines

It is better to replant grapes and vines in the autumn. The signal to start replanting is usually the complete fall of the foliage. This means that the plant has entered the dormant stage. The main thing here is to have time to transplant the plant to a new place at least a week before the onset of serious frosts, and of course, to prevent damage to the root system. If the winter turned out to be early and you did not have time to replant the grapes and vines, then it is quite possible to wait until spring. The main thing here is to have time to complete the transplant ten days before the buds begin to open.

Transplanting both grapes and vines, as well as currant bushes, usually begins with preparing a hole for planting, similar to the hole for currants and similar crops. When the planting hole is ready, you can begin preparing the plants for digging. To do this, stop watering the vines and grapes three days before transplanting, then you will need to leave a couple of sleeves with young vines, a year or two old, near the grapes. In this case, the topmost shoots need to be cut into two or three eyes, and all cuts should be covered with garden varnish. Only after this can the grape bush be dug up, 45-55 cm away from the center, and removed from the soil in the same way as digging up a currant bush.

As for vines, you can leave two or three of the youngest shoots, located as well as possible, while the rest can be removed. When digging, you can move away from the center, in the case of vines, by 35-40 cm, the rest of the steps are exactly the same.

In the future, after planting grapes and vines, after compacting the soil, watering it and mulching, it is necessary to remove all flowers during the first flowering in order to allow the plants to fully develop in the new place. The next season it is necessary to remove part of the inflorescences: about half for grapes, and about a third for vines. Do not forget to provide the plants with sufficient moisture and nutrition during this period.


How to replant a bush of raspberries, blackberries, raspberries and similar crops

Raspberry, blackberry and raspberry bushes tolerate replanting best if done in the autumn. Autumn transplantation is especially favorable for southern regions and central Russia, in colder regions it is better to replant these plants in the spring.

Both raspberries, blackberries, and raspberries are light-loving plants, so a new place for them must be open and well-lit. Excellent predecessors For raspberries, blackberries and raspberries, tomatoes, cucumbers and cabbage are considered. It is not advisable to plant crops in the same place where crops from the same family grew: they may have common diseases that have accumulated over the years of their cultivation.

The soil for raspberries and blackberries needs to be well prepared, dug up with a shovel full, add a bucket of humus or well-rotted manure, as well as a tablespoon of nitroammophoska and 300 g of wood ash per square meter. Ezhemalina also requires thorough disposal of weeds, especially from wheatgrass on the site.

The diameter of the planting hole for raspberries should be 55-60 cm wide and 45-50 cm deep, for blackberries - 40-50 cm wide and 30-40 cm deep, for blackberries - 35-40 cm wide and 45-50 cm deep. Distance between the holes, when transplanting several raspberry plants, should be 45-55 cm, blackberries - 50-60 cm, raspberries - 55-65 cm.

If you have a choice, then for replanting use the most powerful, well-developed plants with stem diameters of at least a centimeter. It is advisable to cut the shoots to about a meter from the soil surface, but for raspberries it is possible to cut them to 50 cm.

When digging up plants, you need to step back 35-40 cm from the base of raspberries, 30-35 cm of blackberries, 40-45 cm of raspberries. Next, dig according to the same scheme, but with one caveat: if the roots are exposed during digging, then they must be dipped before planting into a clay mash. When planting, try not to bury the plants, especially for blackberries; if you deepen the root collar too much, a large amount of root shoots will form, so it is better to place the seedling in such a way that the root collar is exactly at soil level. After planting, you need to water the soil by pouring out 2-3 buckets of water, then mulch it with humus, a layer of a couple of centimeters.

These are some simple techniques for transplanting shrubs to a new place, using which you will get a good result in the form of a plant that has come to life in a new area, gaining strength and actively bearing fruit over time.

In conclusion, literally I would like to say a few words about strawberries. I very often hear the question: is it possible to replant garden strawberries during flowering? We answer, this can be done, but first it is advisable to cut off all the flowers, so that after replanting the plant devotes its energy to restoring the lost parts of the root system and does not waste energy on forming a crop.