When can you plant tree seedlings in the spring. Planting seedlings of fruit trees - how to do everything right? Fruit tree seedlings: clay talker or "Kornevin"

What month to plant on your personal plot bushes and trees, depends on a number of factors. It is necessary to take into account the climatic features of the region, the characteristics of the variety, the weather, the time of arrival of frosts. Planting trees in autumn is preferable for southern cities and middle lane, where winters are not very snowy, colds do not come until the end of October. However, planting new crops on the site is also permissible in the spring, which is most often practiced in the northern regions.

Decent choice of material. At the end of the fruiting phase (in summer), it is possible to evaluate not only the characteristics of the seedling, but also the volume and taste of the fruit in a particular variety.
If you do not miss the deadlines, the plants have time to get stronger before winter, take root and take root on the site. New roots appear on them, which are already actively growing with the onset of spring.
Rains in autumn are more frequent than in summer, which reduces the amount of watering required. Loose, breathable soil contributes to good rooting of the seedling, which allows you to prepare the plants for winter.

Planting shrubs in the fall has its drawbacks:

Planting material is immature seedlings of a bush or tree. With the onset of early frosts, sudden changes temperatures, too heavy rains, they may not take root and die in a cold snowy winter.
A variety of pests in the absence of food can eat the bark fruit trees and shrubs, which significantly reduces the chances of plant rooting.

It is necessary to take into account the amount of snow that falls in a particular region. If the nast is too large and heavy, thin stems and branches may break under its weight.

What fruit bushes and trees are planted in autumn

In autumn, you can plant the following fruit trees:

cherry;
peach;
almond;
apple trees;
cherries;
apricot;
plum.

Almost any fruit bushes, with the exception of sea buckthorn, are optimally planted in autumn period. Winter-hardy varieties are:

nut;
currant;
coniferous;
some types of pear;
honeysuckle;
gooseberry;
aronia.

After the autumn planting, seedlings brought from the southern regions do not take root. They are not able to endure sub-zero temperatures and a large number of snow.

Terms of landing works

Autumn planting of trees must be carried out at the following times:

in the cities of the middle zone - from the end of September to the end of October;
in the warm parts of the country - from the last decade of September to mid-November.

Plants can be planted later, depending on the weather. In southern latitudes, winter generally occurs in late November or early December. If the above-zero temperature is maintained until this period, there are no heavy rains, snow and night frosts, you can do planting work.

tree planting technology

Planting fruit trees in the fall has certain nuances. It is important to choose the side of the site where there is more light and low (at least 1.5 m) occurrence ground water.Some crops, for example, peach, cherry, raspberry, without proper lighting will not give good harvest.

Site and soil preparation

Before choosing a place, consider the size of the future plant, namely the roots and crown of the bush / tree. It is also necessary to make indents from the house, communications and outbuildings.

The distance is calculated based on the height of the tree:

tall ones, reaching 20–25 m, are placed at least 35 m from the building;
undersized species- from 4.5 m.

Some crops in the neighborhood give a poor harvest and interfere with each other, depriving them of light. The neighborhood of an apple tree with cherry plum, peach, apricot with cherry is not recommended, walnut with many fruit crops.

Pit preparation is as follows:

The size is determined based on the diameter of the roots. Stone fruits require a hole of at least 40 cm in diameter up to 60 seconds deep, for pome fruits the hole should be up to 80 cm in diameter and a similar depth.
Root cutting is not recommended. If the seedling does not fit in the hole, its diameter must be increased.
At the bottom of the pit they arrange drainage layer from crushed stone 20-40 mm, sand and gravel mixture or river pebbles.
The top layer is removed carefully; in the future, supplements of mineral or organic origin will be added to it.

Two years after planting, the seedling will fully feed on the substances that are in the soil of the planting pit. That is why the initial feeding is so important.

How to prepare seedlings

When choosing planting material, pay attention to appearance plants:

the roots should be straightened and not bent up;
on the root system there should be a clod of moist earth;
too many leaves on a seedling may indicate that there is not enough moisture in the tissues;
if unripened shoots are visible, then the seedling was dug up before the leaves fell;
there should be no visible cracks, rot or other damage on the bark.

A good seedling is even, with at least 5-6 shoots, without curved sections of the trunk and branches.

Landing scheme

Technique for planting seedlings of fruit trees in autumn:

Place seedlings on the south side of the site. Most fruit crops are thermophilic, need good lighting. On the north side, it is better to plant tall trees.
Prepare the seedling - remove the dried parts of the root system with secateurs, moisten with a wet piece of cloth or a spray bottle.
Place a wooden peg in the center of the dug hole, make a mound at the bottom.
Place a seedling in the center of this mound so that it is at least 5 cm from the peg. The inoculation should be located 3 cm above the ground.
Fill the hole with earth, gently pressing it with your hands. Do some mulching.

Pre-remove upper layer soil, place it in a large container. Here it is necessary to make top dressing and fill up the place around the seedling.

Subtleties of planting shrubs

It is better to plant shrubs on the site in the first decade of September, so that before the winter cold they have time to take root and not be damaged by frost. The planting technique depends on whether you want to get free-standing bushes or hedge.

Site and soil preparation

The dimensions of the planting holes must correspond to the parameters of the root system. Lateral roots - to be able to receive nutrients and water from all layers of the soil due to growth to the sides.

Pits for bushes are prepared as follows:

To create a natural fence from the bushes, you need to dig a long trench. At the lowest point of the dug hole, drain the water. If there is no slope of the site, an artificial slope is created by removing the top layer of soil.
Some shrubs, such as thuja, are suitable for creating hedges. In this case, it is also possible to make a trench, the depth of which will be 50-60 cm.
Medium-sized plants require trenches up to 50 cm deep.
From the smallest shrubs, you can create low borders. In this case, the trench will not exceed 35 cm in depth.

The width of the pit also varies depending on the size of the seedlings:

single row landing - 50 cm;
medium shrubs - up to 40 cm;
small seedlings - the width of a shovel.

As in the case of planting trees, the top layer of soil about 12 cm thick is removed and deposited in a separate container for top dressing.

Planting material processing

When seedlings are purchased in advance, they must be protected from drying out by wrapping the root system with a wet cloth and transfer the plants to a cool place. If the seedling is bought too late, it is better to bury it before the next planting period. Preparatory stages:

the roots are pruned until healthy tissues appear, dried roots are removed with pruners;
1.5 hours before transfer to the pits root system abundantly watered;
the plant is transferred to a pit with an adhering earthen clod;
some cultures require pruning of shoots before planting.

It is necessary to remove all dried shoots and roots, as well as broken, with signs of disease, cracks. Use a sharp tool so as not to hurt the healthy tissue of the plant.

Landing technology

Bush planting scheme:

It is necessary to drive a pointed wooden peg into the dug hole to a depth of about 20 cm. The height of the peg should be about 1-1.5 m. It is necessary for further tying plants (standard varieties) and strengthening on the ground.
Before planting, about 15 minutes, the roots of the seedlings should be on outdoors. To do this, remove the packaging or damp cloth, lay out planting material around the dug holes.
Pour into the bottom of the hole vegetable land and form a mound in the form of a cone at least half the depth high. Consider the nature of the branching and the shape of the root system.
Place the seedling and straighten the roots along the cone with your hands. It should be strictly vertical and at a distance of 5 cm from the peg.
Please note that with subsequent watering the soil will settle. Therefore, the seedling should be 5 cm above the usual surface of the garden plot, the root collar does not go deep into the pit.
Pour the soil in layers, compact with your feet to outside wells. This will help to avoid the appearance of voids and too much shrinkage when watering.
Completely cover the entire root system, gently tamp. Center the position of the seedling and tie it with a soft rope to a peg at a height of about 1.5 mots of soil.

For not standard forms shrubs, as a fortification, you can use not a peg, but a rounded hole, which is organized according to the diameter of the landing pit.

Immediately after planting shrubs and fruit trees seedlings need to be watered. Mulching is carried out with peat chips, the layer thickness should be about 2 cm. This will reduce the evaporation of moisture. In addition to peat, you can use a mixture of earth and sand, crushed tree bark and others. natural materials.

As a top dressing, a ready-made or self-made growth stimulator is used. It is added to the water used for irrigation. This will promote the rapid rooting of plants.

When working with shrubs or trees, consider the climatic conditions. The low temperatures of the Urals or Siberia are suitable for growing acclimatized or zoned varieties that can withstand early frosts and snowy windy winters. Early digging of seedlings, if it is carried out before the foliage has flown, can cause bushes with unripened shoots to freeze and die. Choose planting material without leaves, not overdried, without broken or dry roots.

Regardless of whether the summer resident has acquired empty land or has long been the owner chic plot, planting fruit trees will not blow anyone. Some will create the garden of their dreams, others will rejuvenate it. All work must be carried out according to the rules and within a certain time frame.

About the rules and terms of planting fruit trees

To Orchard developed well, its bookmark is carried out taking into account rationalism, acting in the following sequence:

first determine the optimal place for each seedling;
carry out preplant preparation of the site;
mark places for each tree;
dig holes and plant plants in them;
watered and pruned.

When choosing a landing site, you should consider the location of the neighboring site. Tall trees cannot be planted near adjacent fences - they will obscure someone else's territory. You should not place them near buildings either - in the future, the branches will lie on the roof and can damage the roof.

Fruit trees

It will also be inconvenient to prune such trees and harvest from them. In addition, there is additional (labor-intensive) work to collect fallen leaves. If it is not removed from the roof in time, then this leaf fall will begin to rot there.

Dwarf trees, like shrubs, can be safely placed under vigorous crops (apple and pear trees). They will not interfere with each other in development.

Nice neighborhood

When choosing crops for their garden, stone and pome breeds are located separately from each other at a considerable distance (as far as the garden plot allows). This will facilitate the fight against diseases of fruit trees and pests.

When choosing a neighborhood, consider the compatibility of plants:

the apple tree gets along well with pears, plums, quince, cherries; next to some shrubs (currant, barberry, viburnum, mock orange, lilac), the culture feels uncomfortable;
it is better to plant a pear with their own kind and apple trees, trying to avoid proximity to the already mentioned shrubs - they oppress culture in the same way as plums;
cherry trees are best planted separately from other fruit trees, this will provide a better harvest.

On a note! The binding to the "wind rose" is important. Peaches, apricots and cherries are best planted in southern, southwestern directions. For the rest, the northern side of the site is most comfortable. Although in this case it is worth considering also the region.

So, in the Moscow region and other regions of central Russia, most often the western and northwestern patches of the site are assigned to the garden. Southerners prefer exclusively the north - this way you can protect the trees from overheating.

In the northern zone, of course, the most suitable place is the southern corner of the cottage. Not a single specialist allocates the eastern allotment for a garden plantation, leaving it for building a house.

Note! When choosing a place, you need to take into account the relief. You should not plant a slope with a garden if it is too steep - the fertile layer will constantly be washed out from under the roots. It is also worth ignoring the lowlands, where melt water accumulates in spring, and the wood is damaged by fragments of sliding ice.

Tree transplant

You can grow a garden in one place for decades. But sometimes there comes a time when it is necessary to transplant fruit trees to another site. Only viable plants suitable for fruiting are selected.

To plant mature tree to a new place, it is prepared for the “move” in advance. 1-2 years before that, a groove is dug around the plant, located along the circumference of the crown. The width of the recess is 0.3-0.4 m, the depth is 0.8-1 m. This work is done in early spring.

In the process, the roots are exposed, which are cut off from the general system. Sections are treated with clay-earth talker, to which a growth stimulator should also be added.

The ditch is sprinkled with earth mixed with humus, and watered abundantly. WITH this moment and before digging, many fibrous processes form on the roots around the trunk. With their help, the plant will take root in a new place.

During such transplants, the main difficulty lies in extracting a tree from old pit. To do everything neatly, you will have to use the leverage system. The removed plant is immediately transferred to a new place, where a spacious pit has already been prepared for it.

fruit tree transplant

It is best to transplant trees no older than 5 years. But this option is not suitable for all cultivated plants. To preserve the variety of cherries, plums, pears, apple trees, it is better to graft them onto a younger tree. There are 3 main methods of grafting: budding, cuttings, ablactation, allowing you to save (or improve) the variety.

Timing

Each summer resident determines the landing time for himself. April is suitable for some - the first decade of May, others are more satisfied with October. IN Lately such enthusiasts have also appeared that they plant fruit trees in the summer.

Note! The laws of fruit growing recommend planting stone fruits in spring, and pome fruits in autumn.

But experienced gardeners say that one should not adhere so strictly given condition. The main thing in landing garden trees- observe the rules of agricultural technology and maintain the crop placement pattern.

Best time to plant: spring or fall

Beginning summer residents often wonder when it is better to plant fruit trees: in spring or autumn. To choose the best time for garden work First of all, you should take into account the climatic region:

Having chosen a suitable month for planting work, it is recommended to look into Moon calendar, which is published annually in periodicals to help "junior horticulture". The astrological document contains best days when planting fruit crops is recommended.

Do not ignore this information, because they have been using this method since ancient times (and not only in Russia). The moon influences everything biological processes occurring on Earth, this fact is proven by science.

Planting fruit trees in summer

Among modern summer residents there are those who do not like the investigator to stereotypes. They also practice planting garden trees in the summer. In addition, at the present time it is really possible to do this without damaging the trees.

Previously, the argument against the summer period was hot weather, which prevented normal rooting. But then the seedlings were sold exclusively with an open root system, which, indeed, is more comfortable to take root at a low temperature in well-moistened soil.

Now nurseries sell trees in containers with soil mixture, and the plant is no longer so important at what temperature it is sent to the pit. The roots are quite well protected and do not dry out.

soil mixture

If an automated rationed irrigation system has been laid on the site, then summer is even more preferable for planting. June is considered a suitable month. You need to choose days based on the phases of the moon. You should wait for the second or third quarter of the activity of the night star in order to plant seedlings of fruit trees.

The soil temperature is also taken into account. If it is above 25 degrees Celsius, landing work in summer it should be carried out either early in the morning (at 6-8 o'clock), or late in the evening, but before sunset. This will keep the root system from burning and enable the plant to better adapt.

Experienced gardeners highlight the following advantages of summer tree planting:

you can choose the appropriate planting material without haste - in the summer there is no such influx of farmers in the nurseries;
during the growing season it is easier to evaluate all the advantages of the purchased trees;
summer planting seedlings have time to take root before the cold weather and are more resistant to winter than those planted in autumn.

Important! So that young trees endure winter frosts, during the summer planting, all ovaries that have appeared on the plant should be removed. Otherwise, they will take the extra juices from the seedling onto themselves and weaken it.

Conditions for planting seedlings

The rules for planting fruit trees are common for all seasons. Therefore, the gardener just needs to follow these instructions:

pits are prepared in advance - 2 weeks before planting seedlings; this is necessary so that the excavated earth has time to ventilate;
the size of the excavation is determined by the type of soil and the type of fruit trees;
the walls are drawn up vertically, and the bottom is loosened on the bayonet of a shovel;
when forming a pit, the top layer of earth is laid separately from the bottom - it will need to be mixed with organic fertilizers (peat, manure, compost, humus) and laid on the bottom;
before the seedling is lowered into the pit, the roots are dipped in a mash (clay mortar with the addition of earth);
in the center of the pit, it is desirable to drive a one and a half meter pointed stake, straight and smooth;
when planting a tree, it should be on the north side of the stake;
the roots are straightened and sprinkled with earth;
then the seedling is shaken, and the soil is slightly crushed; so repeat until the pit is filled with earth;
when subsidence, the condition is observed - the root collar should rise 3-4 centimeters above the ground;
tying soft cloth a tree to a stake, several holes are made along the edge of the pit, through which the plant is watered abundantly.

Note! If the site has a close occurrence of groundwater, then a layer of fertilized earth is not simply poured into the pit, but a ridge mound is formed from it, a seedling is lowered onto it.

On this spring and summer planting can be considered complete. At autumn work final stage is the mulching of the near-stem circle with non-acidic peat or compost, 10 cm thick.

Soil acidity

An important role in the laying of the garden is played by mechanical and chemical composition soil. The roots of fruit trees need a suitable nutrient medium and comfortable conditions.

The most important parameter for agrarians is the ratio of cations and anions in the soil solution (pH reaction). These elements determine the acidity of the soil, which is indicated by the pH value.

Soil reaction is divided into 3 types: acidic, neutral and alkaline. The most promising land with a neutral pH of 6-7. But slightly acidic soil (pH 5-6) and slightly alkaline (pH 7-8) are quite suitable for a number of horticultural crops.

Increased acidity can be observed in regions with excessive precipitation (for example, the Leningrad and Moscow districts). A high alkaline level is more characteristic of hot dry areas.

Fruit trees

If the summer resident is not sure about the acidity of the soil in his area, he can take measurements with a potentiometer or use litmus paper. It will tell you the condition of the soil and the composition of the weeds growing there:

for a neutral reaction, a garden thistle, field bindweed, creeping wheatgrass, chamomile are typical;
white-bearded, mountaineer, chickweed, mullein, pikulnik, plantain, horsetail, sorrel indicate increased acidity.

Ameliorants will help improve the property of the land. Acidity can be lowered with lime, and increased with gypsum.

Planting in clay soil

Alone horticultural crops preference is given to sandy soils, others take root well on clay soils, others are not particularly demanding of this factor. Many fruit trees do not tolerate heavy clay and depleted sandy soils. Sandstones and loams are optimal for them.

The features of planting trees and the frequency of irrigation depend on the mechanical composition. The hardest thing is for farmers with clay soil. In such soil, it is difficult for plant roots to breathe. The density of the soil contributes to the long-term retention of moisture, which in the rainy season provokes the development of fungal diseases.

clay soil

An indicator of a heavy mechanical composition are dandelions, bluegrass, goose cinquefoil, creeping ranunculus. Having found such a “community” of weeds on your site, it is necessary to carry out sanding before planting the seedlings: during the preliminary digging of the site, river sand is added to the soil.

Clay soil is called structureless - it has an almost uniform composition. This interferes with water permeability. Therefore, such soil requires careful digging and regular loosening. To make this soil structural will allow the introduction of organic fertilizers during the preparation of the site for planting seedlings.

On a note! The introduction (along with fertilizers) of chopped straw or sawdust into a pit for planting fruit trees will help bring the soil composition closer to loams.

A novice summer resident, in order to grow a chic garden on clay, should take into account the advice of experienced farmers:

digging a clay area before planting seedlings is carried out twice: six months before digging holes and again 10 days before the main work;
the depth of the hole under the tree is less than in fertile soil;
clay talker for the roots in this case is not used;
it is better to cover a seedling lowered into a pit with imported soil mixed with fertilizers;
after planting the tree, the earth is not pressed hard so that it does not compact.

Growing fruit trees will be the more successful, the more attentively the summer resident treats the conditions of agricultural technology. Important right choice places, taking into account the composition of the soil, the definition optimal time and compliance with planting habits. This is the only way to get a good harvest.

" Trees

A transplant for a plant is a traumatic operation, which is best done during a period of natural dormancy, then it takes place practically “under anesthesia”. This is especially true for seedlings with bare roots.

Most fruit trees are best planted in a permanent place after the completion of the growing season - in the fall. Tentatively, this is a month before the freezing of the topsoil. Some trees are best planted in the spring. Let's talk in more detail about the timing of planting seedlings of fruit trees, how to fertilize and properly care for them.

Determining that a tree is ready for transplanting is very simple. The main criterion is that the tree dropped half of the leaves. They are guided when planting apple trees, as well as all berry bushes.

The roots of bushes and trees do not have a dormant period; they continue to grow in winter. Optimum temperature for rooting +4 o C and above. Given that the ground does not freeze so soon, root growth continues almost without a winter break.

Varieties of apple and pear trees with insufficient frost resistance, as well as all stone fruits(cherries, sweet cherries, plums, apricots and peaches), best planted in spring. Moreover, it is necessary to do this as early as possible - until the moisture has left and the buds have not blossomed.

Anyway, landing pits prepared in advance - for spring planting, for example, from autumn (August - September). The deadline for preparing the pits is 2 weeks.

How to choose a seedling for planting in the suburbs and other regions

In order not to throw money away and grow a really fruitful fruit tree, the choice of a seedling should be approached with understanding and responsibly.

Choosing a seedling with an open root system

First of all, variety must be zoned.
To increase the likelihood of buying the desired variety, buy them in a specialized nursery, and not "from the hands" by the road.
Roots must be no shorter than 25 centimeters fresh and undamaged. The more branched thin roots, the higher the likelihood of success.
On the roots there shouldn't be any bumps is a symptom of root cancer. The cut of the root should be white.
Attentively inspect the trunk for cortical damage.

When buying a seedling with leaves, carefully cut them off - the seedling will not lose moisture.

Wrap the roots with wet burlap or newspaper in several layers. If the seedling is still dry, immerse it in water for a day or two, until the bark returns to its fresh appearance.

You can treat the roots with stimulants before planting(Kornevin or Heteroauxin) according to the instructions.

Especially make sure that the roots are not soaked. These areas will probably rot - they must be carefully removed to a healthy part.

Choosing a seedling in a container

Such planting material is more expensive. If you choose it correctly, you can land at any time convenient for you. Survival guaranteed...

How not to make a mistake

The easiest way to check how long a tree has been growing in a pot is to gently lift the plant by the root part. If the earth ball is removed along with the roots, you need to buy - the seedling "lives" in the container for a long time.

Additionally, it will help you make sure you make the right choice. a root that has grown through a hole in the bottom of a container.

When choosing a container seedling, of the two - take the younger one in age. Its roots are most certainly not pruned before planting in a pot for sale.

The tree is installed in a prepared planting hole, without violating the integrity of the earth coma. Watered and covered with prepared soil mixture without deepening the seedling.

Rules for planting a seedling in a garden plot at different times of the year?

The choice of a place for planting a fruit tree - it is produced once and for all, success or disappointment depends on this choice. If the place turns out to be unsuitable for a fruit tree, after a few years it will be impossible to correct the mistake.

Choose a sunny spot to plant, sheltered from the wind.. The close location of groundwater is unacceptable - a tree can successfully develop for 5-7 years, and when its roots reach the aquifer, it will die from decay. At this age, replanting a tree is already incredibly difficult.

Preparatory activities

Even the choice of soil is not so critical for planting a fruit tree. By improving the soil structure and correct dressings almost any area is suitable for gardening.

Landing hole preparation

Even in the case of fertile black soil, it is necessary to start planting a tree by preparing a landing pit. It must be dug at least a month before planting a seedling. During this time, the dug up earth will have time to compact. This is a factor of extraordinary importance - there will be no problems with the correct deepening of the root neck of the seedling.

Root neck - where is it?

It would be useful to clarify what this “root neck” is. Often, inexperienced gardeners take the grafting site for the root collar, and as a result, they deepen the seedling by an extra 10 centimeters. In fact, this is the area where the trunk meets the root. At this point, the dark color of the root turns into a lighter bark of the bole.

The most common mistake is landing in a fresh hole. Strictly speaking, it's not in the pit itself. Until the earth sags, it is very difficult to properly deepen the root neck of the seedling. It is known that it can neither be deepened nor exposed - the tree will not be able to develop normally in both cases.

After planting, the seedling should not lack nutrients at least until it settles down. At this stage, very often, out of good intentions, gardeners “overfeed” seedlings with fertilizers.

It is especially dangerous for young plants to add fresh organic matter and too much mineral fertilizer to the pit. These two extremes act equally depressingly on soil microorganisms, namely, they help the roots of the seedling to absorb nutrients from the soil and air.

For a conditioned seedling of 1-2 years of age, it is necessary dig a hole about 80x80 centimeters in size and the same depth. In the process of digging a hole, fold the upper, more fertile layer separately from the lower one. Remove all stones and roots of perennial weeds. The bottom of the pit must be dug up with a shovel bayonet.
To the bottom of the pit for improvement water balance desirable pour last year's leaves, house garbage, wood ash . This will not only be good drainage, but also an excellent additional top dressing for the tree.
into the pit add 2 buckets of compost or humus, and proceed as follows.
One bucket is mixed with the more fertile soil of the upper layer and poured into the bottom of the pit. You install a seedling on this mound, straighten its roots and pour the second part of the compost directly onto the roots. At the same time, shake the seedling so that there are no air voids that are not filled with soil.
I water well t (minimum 2 buckets of water).
The pit is filled to the top. For this, only the upper fertile layer is used.
From the bottom layer of the earth form a root hole around the trunk circle.
Water again into the formed hole and cover it with mulch(peat, rotten sawdust, foliage, wood chips), this will not only retain water, but also prevent a dense crust from forming.

When planting, it is better to deepen the root neck insufficiently. This option is easy to fix by pouring earth into the trunk circle.

Planting scheme for fruit trees and shrubs

The density of planting trees depends not only on the species, but also on:

type of root stock of a seedling,
way of further formation,
site planning features.

The most common mistake novice gardeners make is planting too tightly.. It is very difficult to see trees at least 2.5 meters high in twigs of one-year-old seedlings in 10 years. The recommended scheme for planting shrubs and trees is given below.

and pears on vigorous rootstocks are located at a distance of 5 meters, medium-sized - 3.5-4 meters, dwarf - 2.5-3 meters. Columnar forms can be planted even after 0.5 meters in a row.

No less distance should be laid when planting seedlings near the house, this especially applies to tall fruit forms, and especially pay close attention to the location- over time, it will be a 10-meter sprawling tree.

To rationally use the area between the seedlings, plant currant bushes between the rows for the time being (in 10 years it will still have to be uprooted - the bush will grow old) or garden strawberries.

Caring for a newly planted tree in spring and autumn

After planting a young tree, in addition to feeding the seedling, there must be proper aftercare for it. The first time after planting, most seedlings need watering. Among experienced gardeners old school there is an opinion that seedlings need watering for 2 years, even if they have taken root successfully. Even trees planted in autumn need to be watered until frost.. Only then will the tree grow strong and healthy.

No matter how great the desire to taste the harvest with young tree, the first flowers must be removed. This is especially true for the first year after planting, otherwise the tree will give all its strength to the first few fruits, and it will not be able to grow the root system and a developed crown.

In addition to watering, a young tree requires preventive measures to protect against pests and fungal diseases. Do not bypass them during each garden treatment. The loss of branches and leaves from pests or disease can be critical for a young tree.

Preparing young trees for winter includes:

mulching trunk circle,
whitewashing the trunk for the prevention of solar and frosty winter burns,
rodent protection and hares.

The mulching layer must necessarily cover the near-trunk circle, not only in the summer to preserve moisture in the root zone. Mulch is especially necessary in the autumn-winter period. Even in the conditions of the Middle Strip and the Moscow Region, the roots of a tree or shrub seedling may suffer from freezing, especially if the snow cover is negligible.

Fertilizers and top dressing for a fruit tree

A well-filled planting hole provides nutrition for a planted tree for 2 years. In practice, it only needs watering.

Fertilizing the garden is carried out according to the established rule:

spring- nitrogen and organic fertilizers,
autumn- potassium and phosphorus.

Fertilization is usually carried out in the near-stem circles in early spring (1) or autumn (2).

Fertilizers are applied to the root zone at the rate of 1 hectare of the garden:

organic 300-500 kg (every 2-3 years),
inorganic N:P:K in proportions 1.5:1:0.6 (in terms of kg of chemically pure substance).

In addition to root dressings, gardeners often practice foliar dressings. In this case, the so-called “tank mixtures” are used - joint solutions of chemicals, for example, against pests and a complex of foliar dressings.

Foliar dressings, unlike root dressings, have an effect almost instantly. Through the surface of the leaves they are absorbed garden plant already 4 hours later. This process is especially active in bottom side sheet.

Another "plus" of such processing- fertilizer consumption is minimal. For example, for nitrogen fertilizing, a solution of 1 tablespoon of saltpeter is prepared for 1 bucket of water.

The only inconvenience is that it cannot be processed immediately before the rain.

Another important point, it is better to “underfeed” the garden with any fertilizer ...

Conclusion

The optimal time for planting fruit trees depends on many factors:

From climatic conditions your region.
From the winter hardiness of the seedling.
From the type of seedling - container or with a "bare root".

In order not to get confused, Ukrainian gardeners have an old rule, which is all the more necessary for colder regions- all stone fruits are planted in spring, pome fruits - in autumn.

In this article, we will talk about planting trees. After all, a seemingly simple matter, like dug a hole, buried it, watered it and forgot it, does not always end with a positive result. The material of the article will help you prepare for planting a tree, tell you where and by what technology to plant a fruit tree (apple, pear, plum) so that the seedling has good chances take root, develop and fully bear fruit, delighting you. At the same time, the trees on the garden plot always raise its importance not only for the owner, but also the market value of the garden plot, in case of sale.

Where is the best place to buy a tree for planting

Buy a seedling from a specialized nursery or garden center. Currently, you can buy a seedling by mail, while organizations selling seedlings assure the reliability of the shipment, that the seedling will have a high percentage of survival. I want to say right away that such a plant has an order of magnitude less chances to take root, so try to find an alternative in your region by buying it close to the planting site

What to look for when buying a tree for planting on the site

Choose seedlings with a closed root system, that is, when the soil envelops the roots, while it is held by the roots. Be careful, as when shaken, the earth can spill out of the roots. The survival rate of such plants proper fit- almost one hundred percent.
Do not buy a seedling with bare roots, it may not take root, although of course if there is no alternative, then you can take a chance. When choosing a seedling with bare roots, pay attention to the condition of the roots, they should not be chopped, dried, they should be elastic.
Plants grown in containers can theoretically be planted at any time of the year.

When is the best time to plant trees (apple, plum, pear)

It is better to plant seedlings of fruit trees in the spring, so it is preferable, although of course it is possible in the fall. We will still consider the spring period for planting. It is necessary to choose a period when the weather for your climatic region is not extreme, no strong wind, frosts, strong sun, rain. The survival rate of the seedling is very dependent on the weather this season, so in a hot or cold season that differs from the average, the survival rate will be lower. If in the hot season it is still possible to somehow compensate for the lack of moisture by watering, and covering the seedling from the sun, then in the cold it is much more difficult. Therefore, planting a seedling is partly connected with the case, with a certain luck.

Place for planting apple, pear, plum fruit trees.

It is best to plant a seedling on a sunny, preferably windless tree. It is necessary to provide for the further development of the tree, do not plant a seedling closer than 4 meters to another tree.
Better fruit trees grow in the black earth, clay soil, worse in sandy.

How to plant a tree seedling

At the moment, there are many ways to land. Here we consider the classic way, the one that is described in most textbooks and manuals. Pits for planting in the spring are recommended to be dug in the fall. In the fall, the walls of the pit will loosen, become more porous, which will later allow the roots to grow more easily. If you did not have time or opportunity to dig a hole in the fall, then dig it no later than 1-2 weeks before the planting date.
Pits are dug with a depth of 1 meter and a diameter of 1.2 m, this is for trees with human height. If you have a smaller seedling, then the depth will be proportionally smaller. Organic fertilizers (humus, sawdust, manure) must be applied to the pits, you can not do this, but then the plant will lack nutrients and will look weak. Fertilizers must be allowed to rot so that they do not sag later. As a result, the depth of the pit should decrease to 60-80 cm.

Rice. 1 The structure of the placement of the earth, the roots in the planting hole. Dimensions are for a seedling of 1.2 meters.

When planting fruit trees, they recommend soil from the bottom and upper parts to swap. Why do it? The upper layers of the soil play the greatest role in plant nutrition, it is from it that mineral fertilizers, nutrients for tree roots. By mixing the soil, the supply of nutrients to the roots will be faster and more efficient.
Bury tree roots with loose earth. When planting a plant with an open root system at the bottom of the hole, first form a mound, spread the roots along its cone, then dig in.

Fig. 2 Scheme of installing a tree on a cone of earth in a pit for planting. The sequence of application of soil for backfilling the pit.

After you have buried the roots, make a roller around the seedling. Since the root system in loosened soil does not securely hold the tree, install a post and tie the tree to it. In order not to damage the roots, you can install 2-3 columns around the perimeter of the roller and tie the tree on stretch marks to them. Water the seedling with water - 1-1.5 buckets. It is desirable that the water room temperature- 20-25 degrees, for this in the spring it can be heated. If it doesn't rain for a long time, keep the soil moist and water it when it dries out. At first, it is necessary in every possible way to help the seedling take root
Recommendations to whitewash fruit trees after planting in order to protect them from spring sunburns are not always the best option, since the bark of a young tree is elastic and whitewashing will smear the pores in it, disrupt air exchange, and this will undoubtedly affect the growth and further development and fruiting of the tree. To protect against sunburn, you can simply knock down two boards at a right angle and attach them to the tree at the butt as a screen from the sunny side.

When to expect a harvest from a planted fruit tree.

So in case of successful engraftment and depending on the variety of trees, the harvest can already be expected for the 8th season. (for an apple tree)

Planting fruit trees and shrubs in spring is recommended in most regions of our country. This slightly delays their entry into the fruiting period, but allows the seedlings to take root well and leave for the winter prepared for the cold. However, spring planting requires the gardener to follow certain rules.

Why is it better to plant in the spring

Planting seedlings of fruit trees and shrubs in the spring avoids freezing, but this is associated with a certain risk. All work must be completed before the start of the growing season, while the plant is in a dormant state. In addition, seedlings planted in the spring, as a rule, suffer from heat, lack of moisture and pests, so they need enhanced care.

The positive aspect of spring planting is that any crops can be planted at this time, even the most heat-loving ones. During spring, summer and autumn, the root system of seedlings has time to develop well and prepare for winter conditions. Therefore, the risk of losing seedlings in the first winter is much less.

Spring planting, in addition to limited time, has one more significant disadvantage. At this time, it is quite difficult to find quality planting material. In autumn, this is much easier to do, and there are usually no problems with the presence of seedlings.

When to plant fruit trees

Best time to drop off fruit bushes- autumn. This is due to the fact that these plants enter the growing season very early in the spring, even before the ground thaws completely. In most cases, planting shrubs in the spring ends in failure. If the situation is hopeless, you need to try to make a spring landing as early as possible, immediately after the snow melts. To increase the survival rate, planted seedlings are heavily watered, maintaining a constant soil moisture.

When to plant fruit tree seedlings

Autumn is the time when most fruit trees are planted. This period is recommended by many agricultural experts. However, these recommendations are applicable only to the southern regions of the country. In these regions, autumn is quite long and warm, and winter does not occur. severe frosts. Under such conditions, the root system of trees planted in autumn has time to acclimatize in a new place before the onset of cold weather, and in spring the plants quickly and unanimously enter the growing season.

In more northern regions, autumn planting can lead to the death of seedlings only because they simply do not have time to take root in a new place before the onset of cold weather. Therefore, fruit trees in areas with a cold climate are more often planted in the spring. This avoids severe frosts, and the trees will get a longer time to adapt to a new place.

Spring planting has its own characteristics. The time when you can plant seedlings of fruit trees is very limited. As a rule, this is 1-2 weeks after the soil thaws, but so far the buds on the trees have not yet begun to swell. The seedling should enter the growing season already in a new place. If this happens earlier, then he will not take root at all or will be sick for a long time.

Cherry planting

Cherry seedlings are planted in the spring only when the air temperature during the day ceases to fall below + 5 ° С. In this case, the seedling should not have swollen buds or other signs of the beginning of the growing season. Too early spring planting can lead to freezing of the plant in the event of a return of frost, and the delay will increase the duration of the growing season.

The advantage of spring planting sweet cherries is that the plant has enough time for the development of the root system, it will take root well and prepare for winter. At this time, the gardener has the opportunity to observe the process and respond quickly in case of any problems.

cherry planting

Planting cherries in spring open ground can be immediately after the night and day air temperature is above 0 °C. In most regions, such weather is already established in April. Planting cherries in the spring has many advantages, but it has one significant drawback. In spring, the plant will spend energy not only on the growth and strengthening of its underground part, but also on building up green mass, as well as the formation of shoots. Therefore, at this time he will need more nutrients, and his care should be more thorough.

plum tree

The optimal time for planting plum seedlings is last decade April. At this time, plants have the maximum survival rate. For spring planting, it is necessary to choose only high-quality planting material. The seedling should not have external defects, and its root system should be branched and consist of several roots at least 25 cm long.

Planting an apple tree

Apple tree seedlings can be planted when the ambient temperature is above 0 ° C. In this case, the seedling should not have signs of vegetation. IN different regions planting dates may vary, so it is best to focus on the condition of the soil. It is not worth waiting for it to completely thaw, it will be enough for a shovel to freely enter the ground.

The delay threatens that the spring supply of moisture will leave the soil. Therefore, the planted tree will take root in a new place for a long time and will require constant artificial soil moistening.

Planting pears

Like most seedlings of other fruit trees, pear can be planted in spring in open ground, when the ambient temperature does not fall below + 5 ° C. In this case, the seedling must be at rest. In the northern regions such temperature regime set in the second half of April, and sometimes in early May. Once planted, the seedling will have plenty of time to take root, grow new shoots, and prepare for winter.

apricot tree

Contrary to popular belief, apricot has not been a purely southern crop for a long time. Modern varieties bred specifically for climatic zones with adverse weather conditions, grow well even in far from ideal conditions central Russia. In such areas, spring planting is used. The main condition for its implementation is the absence of signs of the beginning of vegetation in the seedling. The soil at the site of the planned planting should be completely thawed, and the air temperature, even at night, should not fall below 0 ° C.

How to plant fruit trees in spring

Spring planting of fruit trees is no different from autumn. Planting of seedlings is carried out pointwise or in groups. This must be done at intervals so that neighboring trees do not compete with each other. And you should also take into account the composition of the soil, the level of groundwater, the proximity of buildings, structures, structures.

Site selection

For planting fruit trees, as a rule, well-lit areas protected from the cold wind are chosen. Often they are planted on the south side of houses or fences. For large gardens, it is advisable to use the southern slopes of the hills. Fruit trees do not tolerate stagnant water in the roots, so they are not planted on swampy or flooded lands, as well as in areas where groundwater comes close to the surface.

Planting hole preparation

The size of the planting hole is determined by the size of the root system of the seedling. Usually, a depth of 0.6–0.8 m and a diameter of 0.5 m is sufficient. Preparation of planting pits for spring planting of fruit trees is carried out in autumn. This allows you to saturate the soil inside the pit with air. The earth taken out of the pit is mixed in a ratio of 1 to 1 with humus, adding the following fertilizers there:

urea - 1 tbsp. l.;
superphosphate - 1 tbsp. l.;
wood ash - 1 tbsp.

The ingredients are thoroughly mixed together. This nutrient soil will then be used for planting seedlings.

If there is a risk of raising the groundwater level, a layer of expanded clay, broken brick or crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the landing pit for drainage. A mound of nutrient soil about 1/3 deep. In this state, the landing pits are left until spring. Before planting, near the center of the pit, a peg is driven into the bottom, to which the tree will be tied after landing.

At what distance to plant fruit trees and shrubs

It is important that the trees, as they grow, do not compete and do not obscure each other. Therefore, the distance between adjacent tree seedlings should be at least 2.5-3 m, shrubs - at least 1.5 m. They should be planted at the same distance from the walls of houses or buildings, otherwise in the future an adult tree can damage the foundation with its roots.

Seedling care

After planting, seedlings of fruit trees need good care. It is important to ensure that the soil under them does not dry out. This requires regular watering, as well as mulching the soil with a layer of peat or humus. The bright sun negatively affects newly planted plants, so at first they are shaded. To prevent wind damage in the first years of life, young trees are tied to a support.

Immediately after planting, the seedling of the fruit tree is pruned, thus starting to form its future crown. Depending on the selected type, the cutting height may vary. For example, when forming a sparse-tiered crown, a seedling is cut at a height of about 0.8 m from the level of the graft, for laying a cup-shaped or bush crown - 0.5–0.7 m.

Conclusion

Planting fruit trees and shrubs in spring is often the only possible option in the northern regions of the country. Planting seedlings during this period helps them adapt to new growing conditions and leaves a fairly long period of time for the development of their own root system and preparation for winter. In addition, at this time, the gardener can keep the situation under full control taking timely action in case of emergencies.