How to trim a hedge. Trimming and trimming hedges. Why do bushes need to be trimmed?

The main event for caring for the above-ground part of the fence
- haircut (for molded hedges),
- pruning (for free-growing ones).

Trimming molded hedges

Trimming is done to enhance the growth of side shoots, increase the density of the crown, and to obtain the correct profile of the hedge.

Deciduous hedge It is necessary to start pruning in the first year after planting. If poorly formed plants with an open root system were planted, they are cut by ½ of the length, more formed container plants - by a third. At autumn planting such pruning is carried out in the spring; in the spring - in early spring next year. Thanks to this pruning, a denser base of the hedge is formed.

Next comes the shaping stage, the purpose of which is to increase the density of the branches and create the contours of the hedge. The first cutting is carried out in the second year after planting, then it should be carried out annually: for a young hedge - once a year in early spring or late autumn, then - up to 2-3 times (in spring, July and autumn). For fast-growing plants (plums, hawthorns), repeated cuttings are carried out during the summer from May to October - as the shoots grow, when the hedge lines lose clarity. Less often (twice per season - in July-August and in October) it is necessary to trim barberries, cotoneasters, and snowberries.

The cutting depth increases as the growth and age of the hedge increases: in young plants, no more than 1/3 of the annual growth is cut off. With age, when the growth of shoots weakens, they can be shortened to half. This pruning stimulates branching and enlargement of leaf blades. As the hedge approaches a given height, the cutting can be even deeper, up to leaving stumps 1-2 cm high from the annual growth. Vertically directed shoots are pruned until the side shoots formed after pruning form “floors” and reached the desired height. Then all that remains is to regularly trim the top and sides of the hedge.

Once the desired height is reached, constant top trimming is necessary to maintain the shape of the hedge. If its shape is rectangular or trapezoidal, even a small regrowth of shoots can spoil the profile of the hedge, so very frequent haircuts are required. In rounded or triangular hedges, the unevenness of growing shoots is less noticeable and cutting is not so labor-intensive.

A typical mistake is insufficient depth hedge trimming, when only the ends of the shoots are cut. In this case, after a few years the hedge loosens, sags and loses its decorative effect. To prevent this from happening, you need to maintain your form as close as possible to last year. It is necessary to cut deeper from the sides so that the height in the profile significantly exceeds the width, and does not gradually approach a square. As a result of improper pruning, lighting conditions deteriorate, the bottom of the hedge is unsightly exposed, many dry branches appear, and density decreases. To revive a neglected hedge, it is recommended to trim it to 1/4-1/2 of its height and width, or even cut it to a stump to cause intensive growth of new shoots.

Rejuvenating haircut is applied not only to neglected hedges, but also in case of loss of decorative and protective properties. It is preferable to carry out rejuvenation in two stages: in the first year, only one side is cut, cutting off the branches at a distance of 10 cm from the trunk, the second is cut as usual. On next year rejuvenate the other side. In emergency cases, rejuvenation is performed simultaneously on both sides.

The cut should be oblique over a well-developed healthy bud, aimed at the periphery of the bush, which is especially important when forming a young hedge.

After cutting, the plants need to create conditions for rapid recovery: water generously, fertilize, mulch the soil with bark, wood chips, peat, compost, or at least mown grass.

The cutting tool can be electric (brush trimmer, electric shears, chainsaw), although it is better, especially for young hedges, to use hand tool- pruning shears or garden shears, which damage leaves less and allow you to more carefully form a hedge. Haircuts can be done using stretched cords, but it is most convenient to use a wire frame painted in bright color. The cutting height is increased annually by 4-6 cm until the desired level is reached.

Trimming free-growing hedges

It is wrong to assume that free-growing hedges do not require shaping trimmings and maintenance. Of course, you don't need to trim often, but annual trimming is essential to create a lush, healthy hedge. Planted plants are heavily pruned, as in the case of molded hedges, in early spring of the following year.

Next, depending on the tasks, they carry out the following types trims:

Formative is aimed at creating a crown of a certain shape and density of saturation with both perennial (skeletal) and temporary overgrowing branches.

Held from mid-February to March (for conditions middle zone Russia).

Supportive or regulating is aimed at maintaining crown parameters, optimal illumination of all its areas, the most favorable relationship between growth, flowering and fruiting.

Rejuvenating is aimed at stimulating the formation of new shoots in aging and old plants.

Restorative is aimed at restoring the ability to grow, flower, and bear fruit in plants that have been neglected or suffered from unfavorable conditions.

The last two types of pruning can be carried out from mid-February to mid-April or in August - September, after shoot growth has completed.

Sanitary is aimed at removing faded inflorescences, dead, diseased, damaged and intersecting branches to maintain a neat and balanced plant shape. Can be carried out throughout the year, with the exception of the winter months (due to the danger of drying out and negative impact for cuts low temperatures) and the period of sap flow (when abundant release of sap from the surface of cuts can lead to weakening and even death of the plant).

Timely removal of dry, old, weak branches that thicken the crown is especially important for beautiful flowering and fruit-bearing plants. Pruning is carried out taking into account their biological characteristics:

Blooming on shoots current year , usually in summer or autumn (roses, some spirea, derens, scumpia, five-leaved flowers, elderberry, fieldfare) are pruned before flowering, in early spring or autumn. Some plants can be pruned very much (tree hydrangea, amorpha, willow spirea), they will still bloom, but, for example, rose hips should not be pruned so much.

Blooming on last year's shoots As a rule, in the spring (chaenomeles, hawthorn, cherry, apple tree, forsythia, barberries, some spirea, lilac, viburnum, mock orange, weigels) are pruned after flowering. Faded inflorescences are cut off with part of the shoot, after which the young shoots have time to grow and lay flower buds for flowering next year.

Decorative foliage plants(variegated, purple-leaved, yellow-leaved) are pruned in order to increase the density of the crown and maintain its shape. After partial pruning of the shoots, the timing of which is not so important, an additional number of shoots develops, the leaves become larger, juicier and decorative.

Cut branches and leaves can be a source of disease and pests, so they should not be composted, but must be carefully collected and burned.

20 minutes after pruning, thick sections should be treated with garden putty, varnish, Rannet paste, Bordeaux ointment (prepared from Bordeaux mixture - copper sulfate and quicklime 1:1, mixed with sunflower oil to the consistency of a dry paste) or at least thick oil paint, diluted in sunflower oil (except zinc white and cinnabar).

Based on books:
Uleyskaya L.I., Komar-Temnaya L.D., “Hedges”, M., 2002
Sapelin A.Yu. , “Hedges” - M., 2007

- decoration of any area. However, such decoration requires regular maintenance of its appearance, that is, trimming a hedge is a systematic and obligatory operation for every gardener. It is necessary not only to maintain the shape of the bush crown, but also for better growth and plant health. Therefore, every amateur gardener, and even more so a professional, should be able to do it with their own hands.

Hedge trimming depends on the age and type of plant, season and many other factors.

Let's focus on the fundamental ones: you can cut only then and only in such a way as not to interfere with flowering, not to expose the lower part of the structure and not to spoil the shape of the leaves. These are the main criteria that apply to absolutely all structures and should not be violated, otherwise the health of the plants may be at risk.

Living fencing can be clipped or unformed (free-growing). In addition, fences are distinguished by height:

• low (so-called curbs, up to 0.5 m high);
• medium (0.5-1 m);
• high (1-2 m);
• walls (over 2 m).

A free-growing fence preserves the natural features of plants in their natural form. A formed fence is devoid of individuality individual element, all the plants in it are cut in a certain, not natural and natural, but geometric or other shape. A living fence can consist of both deciduous and coniferous trees. In each case, the haircut has its own characteristics. The tools for cutting, depending on the length, height, age and composition of the hedge, can be:

Scheme for trimming hedge bushes: a, b, c – correct; d, d – incorrect.

• pruner;
• special scissors;
• brush cutter;
• chainsaw.

Pruning shears and pruning shears are best for young, small hedges as they cause less damage to the plants and ensure careful trimming. More mature or longer fences are trimmed with electric shears, hedge trimmers, or a chainsaw. In this case, it is important that the blades are sharpened evenly and well, otherwise the ends of the branches can be injured and split. To make it even, the haircut is carried out along a stretched cord or a special frame made of bright-colored wire.

Return to contents

Stages of cutting branches

Newly planted hedges from young plants should be trimmed every year. Typically, haircuts are carried out in early spring or late autumn. In the future, depending on actual needs, the number of haircuts will be increased to 2-3 times a year. The first pruning usually occurs the next season after planting. But if the plants were planted in the spring, they can be cut at the end of autumn. Haircut stages:

• plant pruning;
• formation of a hedge.

A poorly formed crown of plants is cut to half its length. If the branches of mature plants are well formed, then a third of their length is cut off. The incision is made obliquely, preferably above a formed bud in mature plants. It is inappropriate to feel sorry for the plants in this case, since insufficient pruning of branches is fraught with the possibility of thinning the thickets, exposing certain sections of the fence, and sloppy growth. Only pruning the stump and years of waiting will help correct such mistakes. Therefore, you need to cut the hedge boldly, confidently, without fear, but also without fanaticism. Proper pruning will provide dense growth of vegetation and larger foliage that will reliably protect your personal plot from the wind, prying eyes, dogs and strangers. It is almost impossible to overcome a well-formed hedge without special tools.

Return to contents

Formation of a living fence

When the branches are shortened, it’s time to start shaping - giving the fence the desired profile and increasing the density of the branches. Most often this is correct rectangular shape with flat tops and sides. The fact is that this form is the simplest; even a novice gardener can form it. It is easy to maintain and maintain and is optimal for high wall thickets. The only caveat for a rectangular shape is the recommendation that the height of the fence be significantly greater than the width. This is necessary so that the lower shoots do not lack sunlight and die off. Also, the branches on the sides need to be cut deeper than the branches at the top.

Other popular haircut shapes are trapezoidal or rounded, when the base of the bush is much wider than the top. This allows plants at all levels of the fence to receive sunlight and actively develop, keeping beautiful and well-groomed for a long time appearance. For mature plants, timely pruning is needed not only for decorative and preventive purposes, but also for sanitary purposes. Trimming old, weak, dry or pest-infested branches helps maintain the health of the entire fence.

Trimming is also useful as a rejuvenating agent if the hedge has lost its decorative effect. In this case, pruning is carried out in two stages: in the first year, deep cutting is done only on one side of the hedge at a distance of 10 cm from the trunk, the other side should be cut the next year. After any haircut, sanitary, rejuvenating or annual, it is recommended to water the hedge abundantly, fertilize and cover the soil under it with peat, mown grass or tree bark. This will contribute to faster recovery of plants, their good nutrition and growth. When the hedge is fully formed in height and shape, it has to be trimmed much more often, since even slight regrowth of branches spoils the profile of the hedge.

Hedges can be trimmed using stretched wire cords to maintain their shape as much as possible. However, special frames are much more convenient. For a formed hedge, proper adherence to the form is extremely important. Typically, the cutting height is increased annually by 4-6 cm until the specified height level is reached. All of the above recommendations are general, but individual breeds have their own haircut nuances.

In order for a hedge to please the eye with its fresh green and neat appearance, it is necessary to trim it regularly. Trimming not only makes your hedge look neat decorative look, but also contributes to the formation of a denser crown, increased growth of lateral branches and leaves of plants.

Newly planted hedges from young plants require a single annual pruning in the first two years, which is carried out in early spring or late autumn. In the future, the number of haircuts per season can be increased as needed up to 2 – 3 times a year.

Tools

For trimming young hedges Not large sizes It is preferable to use a hand tool - pruning shears or garden shears - they injure the plant less, after such cutting there are more whole living leaves left, and the cutting itself will be done more carefully. For more mature plants and larger hedges, use electric tools: brush cutter, chainsaw, electric scissors. Important nuance when preparing the tool, make sure that the blades are sharpened very well and evenly, otherwise the cut ends of the branches will be injured and become split.

In order to give the fence the intended shape with straight lines, cutting is carried out along a stretched cord or using a special frame for a fence made of brightly colored wire.

The first stage is pruning the plants

Plants with a poorly formed crown are cut to half their length. The branches of well-formed mature plants are cut back by a third. This pruning is done the next season after planting. So, if the plants were planted in the spring, then the first pruning is carried out in the fall.

The second stage is the formation of a hedge

The purpose of shaping is to give the hedge desired profile and increase the density of branches. Often, when cutting a hedge, they try to give it a regular rectangular cut shape with flat tops and sides. In this case, it is desirable that the height of the fence be significantly greater than the width, otherwise the lower shoots lack light, become bare and die. The most natural forms of cutting are round or trapezoidal profiles with a wider base at the bottom, then all shoots of the plant develop in good light conditions and the hedge retains a beautiful, well-groomed appearance for a long time.

The first formative pruning of a deciduous hedge is carried out in the second year after planting. In young plants, no more than a third of the annual growth of shoots is cut off; in mature plants, the growth rate of shoots is lower, so the branches are cut off to half the growth. Unnecessary length is removed by making an oblique cut over a well-developed bud. Correct haircut stimulates the growth of new branches with larger leaves.

When forming rectangular shapes, the branches on the sides of the hedge need to be cut deeper than at the top. It is very important to carry out sanitary pruning in a timely manner - trim dry old weak branches, as well as shoots affected by pests.

If the hedge has lost its decorative effect, measures are taken to rejuvenate it. In this case, a rejuvenating haircut is carried out, which includes two stages: in the first year, a deep haircut is carried out only on one side, retreating 10 cm from the trunk; in the second year, a deep haircut is carried out on the opposite side.

Each type of plant from which a hedge is formed has its own peculiarities in cutting. Let's list some of them.

Coniferous hedge

Spruce hedges are quite shade-tolerant, but regular trimming should be carefully observed. Neglected coniferous hedges cannot be corrected, as the branches become too powerful and cannot be pruned. In the first year after planting, the plants are given the opportunity to adapt and are not pruned. The following year, pruning is carried out in May or June, shortening the apical shoots by about a third of the length, and the lateral shoots by two-thirds. In this case, it is necessary to strive to give the fence the desired profile. The most optimal profile is a trapezoidal shape, but a rectangular shape is also acceptable. In subsequent years, the shape of the hedge is maintained by pruning, which is carried out at the end of June in the period before the formation of new buds.

Juniper and thuja hedges must be trimmed annually, giving them a trapezoidal shape. Trimming such hedges is much easier, but it is very important to maintain regular trimming, carrying it out at the end of each June.

Barberry hedge

Of all the shrubs, barberry retains its spectacular shape for the longest time after pruning; in addition, it can be used to successfully create quite complex curly profiles. The advantage of this plant is also that it has a huge number of varieties with the most various options coloring of leaves, which makes it possible to create very beautiful multi-colored hedges. You can trim a barberry hedge, even a very overgrown one, at any time of the year. Barberry tolerates pruning of 1-2 year old branches very well.

Hawthorn hedge

With timely trimming and care, a hawthorn hedge grows very thick, almost impenetrable. To create such a hedge, seedlings of the second year are cut at a height of 15 cm from the soil, and then one or two of the growing shoots are left, cutting off all the rest. Until the hedge grows to the desired height, the newly emerging shoots intertwine with each other. Hedge trimming is done every year in summer and spring.

Privet hedge

A very good feature of privet is its high ability to shoot. Thanks to this, a hedge made from this shrub is resistant to irregular haircuts and is easily restored even after pruning to a stump. Privet trimming begins as early as possible, at the moment when the planted plants begin to grow. First, only the tops of the shoots are lightly trimmed; after the branches grow 15 cm, the procedure is repeated. This stage of preparing the crown for formation lasts two years. Then you can begin to form the profile of the fence. The most optimal profile shape is trapezoidal. It is necessary to maintain the shape of the hedge by frequent regular haircuts 3-6 times a season from May to September.

Development summer cottage usually begins with the designation of its boundaries. Many people surround their estates with high, blank fences, but there is another way to isolate yourself from the street - a hedge of trimmed or free-growing shrubs!

Hedges improve the microclimate of the site. A wall made of bushes will quite effectively protect the estate from the winds, but, being permeable to air movement, will not create pressure drops and air funnels that are harmful to plants, which usually form near solid fences. Plant roots, unlike fence foundations, do not prevent outflow groundwater. Dense high hedges provide good protection from noise, serve as a reliable barrier to dust and exhaust gases close to busy highways. A dense wall of thorny plants is an almost insurmountable obstacle for unauthorized persons trying to enter the fenced area.

There are two types of hedges - molded and unshaped. In the first case, the plants are regularly pruned to give them a certain shape, in the second, they are done without cutting, allowing the seedlings to develop freely. The second option is less labor-intensive. A dense, untrimmed hedge 2 m high can be grown in 2-4 years, while a molded hedge of the same height will take at least 4-6 years to create. Alas, an unshaped hedge takes up a lot of space (the width can reach 4 m) and is contraindicated for small areas. The molded fence is compact (no more than 1 m wide) and is suitable for any area. Both types of hedges require pruning in the first years after planting.

On a note

Planting a hedge will cost much less than building a solid fence. Especially if you choose plants that you can propagate yourself rather than buying from garden center.

When to plant?

hedge from deciduous plants, grown in containers, can be planted throughout the season - from spring to autumn.

Bare-root plants, that is, those that were grown in the ground at the nursery and then dug up for sale, are planted only when they have no leaves - either in October, when the leaves have already fallen, or in early spring, before they begin to grow. buds swell. On heavy and wet soils best time for planting - spring.

Conifers and evergreens deciduous shrubs are sensitive to drying out, so these plants should be purchased with a closed root system and planted with an undisturbed clod of soil. It is best to do this in September or spring - from the moment the buds begin to swell until the end of May.

How to plant correctly?

For unshaped hedges, as well as for light-loving and coniferous plants(spruce, thuja, juniper) planting seedlings in one row is suitable. But such a fence does not always form a dense curtain. For hedges that will be intensively pruned, as well as for those that must form a continuous screen, planting in two rows is recommended.

If you intend to plant plants densely, it will be more convenient to immediately dig one or two ditches along the cord. In a single-row hedge, plants are planted keeping equal distances between seedlings (about 20-50 cm), in a double-row hedge - in a checkerboard pattern. Some of the barren soil removed from the hole is removed. The rest is mixed with compost or quicklime peat and returned back, poured along the entire ditch.

If the gaps between plants should be large - 60-70 cm - it is better to plant them in separate holes rather than dig a ditch. In this case, the holes should be so large that the roots lie freely in them and are not bent up or to the sides.

Why do you need pruning after planting?

The first pruning is done regardless of whether the fence is to be molded or not.

This procedure has very great importance, since it depends on it whether the plants will take root or not, and what the hedge will look like in the future. The first haircut stimulates the growth of new shoots and promotes the development of the root system of plants. Plants planted in the spring and shedding their leaves for the winter are pruned immediately after planting; and those planted in the fall are left unpruned for the winter, postponing this procedure until the spring of next year. In spring, to stimulate branching, the tops of the shoots are pruned first. In general, the depth of pruning depends on the type of plant and its condition, usually shrubs and hardwoods cut 30-40 cm from

On a note

Trimming your hedges regularly is not only necessary to make it look beautiful. Thanks to this procedure, the plants will be healthy and the hedge will be evenly thick and lush.

To keep your hedge healthy, thick and looking good, it needs to be trimmed regularly. The hedge, which consists of deciduous plants that shed their leaves for the winter, is trimmed at least twice a year. The first time is at the turn of June and July: at this time the shoots are cut to half their length. The second pruning is carried out at the end of August - beginning of autumn, shortening all fresh shoots to a length of 10 cm.

An unshaped hedge does not require regular pruning: it is enough to trim it only once a year - in early spring. At this time, the hedge is thinned out, cutting out all the old branches near the ground, and the young ones are shortened by 2/3 of their length. This will not change the shape of the hedge, but it will become thicker.

It is not necessary to trim a hedge of coniferous plants as it grows. But if the plants grow weakly, then once a year (in July - early August) they can be carefully trimmed, cutting off the tops of the plants by 10 cm (the side shoots are shortened a little more).

How to trim a mature hedge?

A molded hedge of deciduous plants that has reached the expected dimensions is trimmed regularly, and if the growth is strong, even once a month. This will allow the hedge to maintain its correct geometric shape and look well-groomed.

A molded coniferous hedge is usually trimmed at least twice a year - preferably in July and early August. The exception is spruce hedges, which can only be trimmed once a year, preferably in late spring, when the plants send out young shoots.

An unshaped hedge does not need regular trimming. Columnar-shaped plants are not pruned at all. The exception is when they begin to thin out from below. Then you should trim all the top shoots and some of the side shoots.

In deciduous hedges, it is useful to thin out the crowns of plants every few years (in the spring before buds appear). Most of the old and thick shoots are removed, and the young ones are cut to 2/3 of their length.

How to get a haircut?

First, set the level of the upper plane. This can be easily done using a cord stretched between stakes driven into the ground. Another option is to attach a long horizontal strip to vertical pegs. The upper part of the hedge is trimmed horizontally, moving along the cord or strip. Moreover, for beginners, a plank is preferable, since it can be used as a guide without the risk of cutting it with a sharp tool. Then they cut the side walls one by one, removing all the branches that have grown beyond the established line.

Our advice

Hedges that are subject to intensive trimming should be systematically fertilized with compost or multicomponent mineral fertilizers.

The best plants

Spirea

A fast-growing hedge 1-1.2 m high can be obtained from spirea. The shrub is easy to propagate with your own hands. The hedge is winter-hardy and drought-resistant, the bush does not suffer from anything, and looks beautiful both in summer and autumn. However, it is growing very strongly. To keep the shrub looking neat, it needs regular trimming, the frequency of which depends on the variety. For irregular haircuts Bottom part the bush is exposed and looks sloppy.

cotoneaster

Very profitable option green hedge, since the plant tolerates cutting well and “keeps its shape” for a long time. The shrub is resistant to unfavorable growing conditions, well adapted to harsh climatic conditions. It bushes reluctantly, so it is better not to count on quick results. Cotoneaster can be used in regular style gardens.

Thuja

At proper care Thuja hedges retain an attractive appearance all year round. Thujas can be used to create a tall and extremely dense green wall. The tree is shade-tolerant, frost-resistant and not very demanding on moisture and soil. For hedges, it is better to choose pyramidal-shaped varieties of thuja, for example, the columnar varieties of western thuja "Brabant", "Smaragd" and "Fastigiata".

Bladderwort

A powerful shrub that forms a dense hedge. It is easy to take cuttings and grows quickly (40 cm in width and height per year). It is unpretentious - frost-resistant, drought-resistant, can grow in shaded places, does not get sick. There are several spectacular varieties with leaves of different colors - from golden to purple. The shrub takes up a lot of space, so you should not plant it on small area.

Snowberry

Perhaps the most unpretentious shrub for hedges in our climate. Suitable for creating low hedges (up to 1 m). It will feel good even in areas with high ground. It is practically not damaged by diseases and pests. It tolerates pruning and shaping haircuts well. Increased stability to gas and smoke allows you to use a snowberry to separate the parking lot from the front areas and recreation areas.

Barberry

Perfect for creating an impenetrable and invisible hedge, you just need to choose tall varieties (for example, Ottawa barberry ‘Superba’ grows up to 3.5 m tall). Many unpretentious varieties with beautiful foliage different shades. One of the species, Thunberg barberry, blooms and bears fruit when clipped. Barberries absolutely cannot tolerate waterlogging and stagnation of water.

Video: How to grow a hedge in your country house?

- not only the functional part of the land plot. This is, first of all, vegetation that requires some care. Sanitary cuttings and giving a certain shape will not only maintain the healthy condition of the green fence, but also make it more decorative. Also, after machining, most plant varieties grow better, bloom more luxuriantly, and bear more fruit.

Not all vegetation requires regular trimming. There are free-growing varieties that do not lose their decorative characteristics, healthy condition without any haircut. But most green spaces must be systematically maintained in a healthy, decorative state through pruning, which also makes it possible to control the growth of seedlings and regulate the height of the protective structure. This procedure may be carried out regardless of the time of year.

Mechanical processing is carried out only at the time that is most appropriate, consistent with the type of pruning or cutting.

There are mainly three groups of green hedges based on the method of their processing:

1. Green fencing of strict form . Designed to increase the level of protection of the allotment from the intrusion of prying eyes, to restrain gusts of wind. The branches are cut from bottom to top, creating required type. Many hardwoods allow you to create real works of art in a territorial space due to their flexibility in processing and excellent support for the given look.
2. Free growing . Retains its functionality and external qualities in the absence of haircut or pruning. These include: privet, blackthorn, snowberry and so on.
3. A heavily trimmed fence. This includes those plant varieties that need to be systematically heavily pruned. First, a third of the length of the branch, and as it grows, up to half. The following types of plants are subjected to this treatment: beech, hornbeam, hazel, forsythia, red currants and similar plantings.

Shearing and pruning differ from each other in that they cut off vegetation in order to give a specific look, to create a more than simple shape. Branches are pruned only for sanitary purposes, compliance with which will help maintain optimal performance landing Such as the splendor of the crown and flowering, the abundance of fruiting, and the level of health.

If the owner of the territory wants to make some artistic figures from vegetation, templates should be used. It is not recommended to do the chosen haircut abruptly. It is better to prune trees or grass gradually so that the desired appearance is acquired as the seedlings grow. When birds have built nests on the crown of a living fence, it is better to wait until they move on their own.

A protective structure of green spaces of the required shape has been cultivated for years. You will need patience, fertilizers and quality tools to grow a high-quality, beautiful, healthy green fence.

What type of pruning to give preference directly depends on the breed and variety of greenery chosen for the protective structure. Deciduous varieties need to be trimmed regularly. Processing coniferous shrubs and trees cannot be made after the third ten days of August, which is due to the fact that the cut parts of the branches will not have time to become sufficiently strong before the onset of frost. Immediately after pruning, the planting needs to be watered abundantly and fed thoroughly.

Tools for cutting plants must be chosen only high-quality, well-sharpened ones. An important quality of cutting elements is their ease of placement in the hands, their heaviness, and their intended purpose.

This or that trimming of a green hedge is selected according to its intended purpose:

1. Formation. Giving a certain shape to the crown of the plant, which will become the determining factor in the saturation of the foliage and its compaction.
2. Regulation. When some specific type the foliage has already been given, it is necessary to maintain a new state, distributed lighting.
3. Regeneration. Helps restore plantings, maintain their health, flowering, and fruiting.
4. Rejuvenation. It is performed almost at the root, leaving about 5-20 centimeters of the trunk from ground level.
5. Sanitation. Aimed at excision of diseased, dried, withering branches.

It must be remembered that rejuvenating mechanical treatment is carried out on evergreen plantings from the beginning of spring, and deciduous trees are pruned at the end of winter.

The very first pruning can greatly affect the survival rate of plantings and their future appearance. On trimmed bushes and trees, young shoots grow more intensively, and root system strengthens.

Primary pruning of deciduous varieties planted in autumn begins in spring; if they were immersed in the soil in spring or summer, they are tidied up after planting. Heavily branching plantings are cut at a height of 0.3-0.4 meters, and if there are many side shoots, the tree or bush is cut at a level of 15 centimeters.

Subspecies are cut off starting in July or early August, but after 1 year of establishment in a new place. The shoots of such plants are cut 10-20 centimeters from the top, the side shoots - a little less.

The grown-up one is kept in the same shape regularly, cutting off the growth increase almost every month. Thinning the crown will have a positive effect on the development of foliage. The tonsure is done in one go, which means removing dry flowers, branches, and diseased parts in one go.

The molding trim of the green fence is carried out at a slight angle from top to bottom. It can also be trapezoidal in shape.

On average, a neat, decorative, full-fledged hedge grows after 4-5 years.

What tools can be used to trim a hedge?

Carrying out mechanical processing of a protective green fence must be accompanied by a high-quality tool, the type of which is selected for each specific living fence:

1. Secateurs are used to work with vegetation with thin branches.
2. Scissors with a serrated blade are used to cut out large branches and woody parts. They have the least traumatic effect on a bush or tree, provide an even cutting angle, and allow you to remove unnecessary branches very accurately.
3. The hedge trimmer is excellent at removing very thick parts of a bush or tree that have become very hardened. Rotating models have a significantly lower load on the surface of the branches.
4. Electric scissors are designed to create decorative forms, fancy curves and lines. Helps make smooth, straight green fences. Despite the inconvenience of use due to the presence of wires, they are distinguished by high engine power and lighter weight.

It is necessary to regularly sharpen the device used for cutting vegetation, otherwise dull areas of the blade can cause significant damage to the branches. Immediately after pruning, the cutting parts are cleaned of remaining vegetation, juices, and wiped with oil.

When the owner wants to cut his hair or do a certain form decorative deciduous plantings, you can start this after a year of establishment. Their very first pruning is carried out in the spring and leaves about 0.3-0.4 meters from the soil surface. Next, you will only need to maintain the created state of the plant through treatment 2 times a year: in autumn and spring. Additional tonsure is allowed in the summer.

Young animals are shortened by about a third total length seedling, and grown green fence cut almost in half.

Once trimmed, living fencing will require more careful maintenance. To do this, you need to moderately water the fence and feed the soil. Fertilizers are applied inside the soil every spring, at its beginning. To increase the fertility of the land you can use:

• compost, which is laid around the plantings in a thick layer of 3 to 5 centimeters;
• universal mineral fertilizers applicable for all types of vegetation;
• Specialized mineral supplements are purchased for feeding certain species of bushes or trees.

The green protective structure is best restored under conditions of regular loosening of the soil, application of mulch, and systematic weeding. Lack of proper care or improper care after mechanical treatment, it will have a negative impact on the plantings: the plants will weaken, begin to get sick often, or even die.

Typical mistakes gardeners make when trimming hedges

To green protection of the deciduous plantings looked the most well-groomed upon reaching required size, maintained the given appearance, you need to trim it regularly, sometimes every month.

Coniferous trees are trimmed at least 2 times every 12 months. It is recommended to do this in April and July.

Columnar species are usually not touched, but thinning the lower part of a bush or tree becomes an objective reason for carrying out the tonsure procedure.

The crowns of any plant variety should be thinned out at least once every few years, and before buds form.

There's no point in cutting the shape young plant wider than 30-60 centimeters. The wider the protective structure, the more difficult it will be to carry out the mowing process, the more territory there is plot of land will be busy for them.

Giving the crown of vegetation a strict appearance will require a wide base. When creating a narrow bottom with a wide top, winter time can severely fray the branches: the load will fall directly on the top of the bush or tree, up to 1.5 meters high. Due to such exposure, the hedge may not withstand snowfall or strong gusts of wind.

Plants should not be left untouched for several years. Prolonged absence of mechanical treatment can have a negative impact on the surrounding vegetation. If the owner leaves protective plantings without proper care, the risk of excessive growth of seedlings increases, which will lead to increased density of the tops of the plantings and their bareness below. Also, the procedure of excision of branches will allow the cropped plantings to develop a large number of basal shoots.

It may be easier to maintain a certain level of greenery if you build a level from rope or slats. This will also allow you to withstand perfectly flat surface, without differences in height or width.

In no case should you forget to feed, water, and, if necessary, cover the trimmed plantings. The process itself is a significant stress for the greenery and can lead to disease, drying, wilting or death of the living fence.

When the owner has planted flowering subspecies on his land, he carries out mechanical processing immediately after the flowering period ends.

The pruning depth is initially small, but gradually increases in proportion to the growth and development of the seedling. This is due to the fact that after mechanical treatment, plants begin to grow more in width than in length. And when the required height level is reached, top part The bush is kept at the same level during further processing. That is, in the future, the green fence is cut not only superficially, but as close as possible to the state in which the tree or shrub was in the previous year of life. If this is not done, then over time the hedge will grow greatly, the branches will begin to fall in different directions, and general form protective structure will lose all decorative qualities.

You should not prune only young shoots. As the crown grows, the branches will begin to sag greatly, which means that the living protection will lose its performance characteristics.

If the planted deciduous fence has not been put in order for so long that it has become neglected, then cutting or pruning from 25 to 50% of the height and width of the crown is allowed. Cutting to the stump is allowed, which will only increase the intensity of the development of new shoots. Coniferous plantings can be reduced by no more than an amount not exceeding the total annual growth of the plant over the last three years.

Video material on cutting and trimming a living fence: