Proper pruning of fruit trees in the garden. What types of wood cutters are there? How to trim trees

Planting a garden is only the first step towards reaping a harvest. In order for it to bear fruit well and not get sick, pruning is needed fruit trees. They do it in spring and autumn. Let's talk about spring.

ABOUT By cutting a plant, you injure it. Therefore, it is very important to choose the type and quality of the tool that you use. It depends on them whether the tree will recover quickly.

You will need:

• garden knife;
• hacksaw.

It is recommended to trim the branches with a knife. Secateurs are easier, but they cause more damage: they compress the wood strongly, and then the wound takes longer to heal. In order for the garden to recover faster, the cut must be even. This can only be achieved with a garden knife.

Amateur gardeners often have a question: when to prune fruit trees in the spring, is it possible after the sap begins to flow? It all depends on the condition of your garden. Did the trunk split, did the branches break under the weight of the snow? Of course, pruning is inevitable. When there is nothing like this, then there is no point in injuring the trees. After all, pruning is not an end in itself. If you form trees according to the rules, you will only need a minimal corrective operation, which you can do without.

Fruit tree pruning – important factor for a healthy and fruitful garden. And you need to do it skillfully. First of all, shoots should be removed:

• which extend from the trunk at an acute angle;
• directed to the center of the crown;
• which do not bear fruit (wolfberry).

There are several rules that professional gardeners always adhere to:

1. Pruning should begin as soon as the severe frosts have subsided (most often this is the end of January, beginning of March). This way, the wounds will not freeze, and when sap flow begins, they will heal quickly. The cuts should be even and smooth. They need to be lubricated with garden varnish.
2. You need to trim the shoots above the eyes, which grow outward from the crown. The cut is made from the inside out.
3. Branches that are a continuation of the trunk should be longer than the others.
4. On weak trees, short pruning is done. Trim above the second or third eyes.
5. With strong growth, medium pruning is done. The branches are cut above the fifth eye.
6. For vigorous trees, long pruning is carried out, leaving eight or more eyes.

Crown formation

Forming the crown of a young tree can begin in the second year of its life and continue for several years. Fruits on apple and pear trees appear on perennial shoots, and plums and cherries bear fruit the very next year after planting. Knowing this, spring pruning fruit trees can be produced without much damage to the future harvest. Non-tiered and sparsely-tiered crown formation systems are common. The latter is ideal for cherries, plums, and cherry plums. The basis of such a crown is a trunk and up to a dozen side branches that grow from the trunk in tiers at a distance of up to twenty centimeters from each other.

So, how to properly prune fruit trees in the spring and form a crown? Proceed as follows:

1. The conductor is the central shoot; cut it at approximately 80 cm from the base. The main thing: there should be up to a dozen buds left on the guide. New shoots and side branches will come out of them. This is the first tier.
2. Next year, remove branches damaged over the winter, select three or four strong ones. Delete the rest. This is the second tier.
3. Therefore, according to the same principle, form the third tier already in the fourth year.
4. The tree has reached a height of four meters (short fruit trees - maximum), remove the conductor above the upper branch. Thus, stop the growth and completely form the crown of the tree.

Trees need to be pruned regularly: once a year or in spring and autumn. At any time, as necessary, sanitary or corrective pruning is performed.

When pruning fruit trees in spring, the timing is late winter or early spring. This is especially important for apricots, cherries, peaches, and cherry plums. In the summer, pruning is done only to remove tops, branches that contribute to unnecessary density of the crown.

Description: a - shortening of shoots in the first year; b, c - formative pruning of crown shoots along a given contour; d - sanitary pruning (removal of dry branches); d - pruning and thinning in order to improve aeration (before and after); e - rejuvenation of old trees.

Pruning mature fruit trees

Your garden is already bearing fruit. But it, like young trees, requires care and removal of dried or diseased branches. How to properly prune fruit trees in spring?

The thickened crown of a fruit tree needs to be thinned out. After five years, the conductor is removed. This will limit upward growth. Remove the branch completely or partially. Partial removal promote the growth of the branch that is located nearby. It is also necessary to cut off diseased, dried branches - the illumination of the crown improves, the fruits are distributed evenly.

Pruning is best done when the tree is dormant, before sap flow begins.

If the crown is pyramidal (pear - branches grow upward), the growing branches need to be lowered down: those that are directed downward are left, and those that are directed upward are cut off. In other fruit trees, the branches are directed downwards - they need to be lifted: remove the ones pointing downwards.

To rejuvenate a tree, you will need to cut top part trunk and thin out the crown. To do this, you should remove the old branches going inside the crowns that are intertwined. A very dense crown should not be thinned out overnight, so as not to seriously injure the plant; spread out the operation over two to three years.

Schemes for pruning pear, cherry, apple trees

Pruning fruit trees in spring: scheme for pears:

1. In winter, the branches freeze and tops appear. They are completely removed or trimmed.
2. If you prune too much, it will weaken the tree and the fruit will appear much later than expected. It is better to do moderate pruning.
3. It is useful to slightly shorten annual branches. This will only strengthen them.

For cherries, sweet cherries:

1. Five to seven strong branches are left in young trees, “looking” in different directions. The distance between them is up to 10 centimeters.
2. All weak branches are removed.
3. The conductor should be 20 centimeters longer than the others.
4. Cherries are pruned only in the spring.

For apple trees:

1. Before you start pruning, you need to clear the trunk and main branches of shoots.
2. Removing a third of the branches and shoots will rejuvenate the old plant and increase productivity - the main thing is not to overdo it.
3. Pruning needs to be done over several years.

When working in your garden, consider the experience of other gardeners and do not forget:

1. When removing branches, do not leave stumps, cut close to the trunk.
2. A correctly made cut leaves a trace of a neatly overgrown “ring”.
3. When removing thick branches, first make a cut from the bottom and then from the top. This way, the bark will remain intact if the branch falls.
4. If the shoot was removed incorrectly, there is damage - clean it, treat the cut with varnish.
5. It is better to wait until next spring to trim frozen trees.
6. You cannot fill hollows or drill drainage holes.
7. If there is a danger of branches breaking under the weight of the fruit, do not place supports. It is better to partially pick off the fruits. Otherwise, the plant will get used to it and will not be able to hold the branches on its own.

You will learn how to properly prune a plant without damaging it by watching the video at the end of the article.

1. When pruning, the pruning shears should be held with the narrow part towards the branch.
2. If you want to form a lush crown of a young tree, shorten the conductor by ¼.
3. There should be only one conductor. If there are competitors, eliminate them.

A year after planting the plant, shorten its trunk by 20 centimeters and its branches to 7 centimeters. Please note: the branches at the bottom should be longer.

Spring pruning of fruit trees video

Purposes of tree pruning

This procedure is carried out with the aim of extending the life of plants, stimulating their growth and obtaining a large harvest. After all fruit trees on personal plot Planted specifically for the purpose of producing fruit. Besides, Garden pruning helps protect trees from pests and possible diseases.

In general, plants need comprehensive care, pruning alone will not be enough to obtain a bountiful harvest. It is necessary to fertilize, water and spray the garden. And then your fruit trees will be beautiful, healthy and, most importantly, fruitful.

The fact that pruning trees plays a big role in obtaining a harvest does not mean that this activity should be carried out whenever you want. Exist certain deadlines and methods for carrying out this procedure. Failure to follow these rules will have the opposite effect on the trees and you risk instead blooming garden get a bunch of stunted plants.

Types of pruning

By removing excess branches from the crown of a tree, you greatly slow down its growth. Experienced gardeners have long noticed this feature: the larger the tree, the smaller its fruits. Currently practiced the following types plant pruning:

Crown forming

This is done to obtain a bountiful harvest by forming the correct crown of the fruit tree. Typically, such pruning is carried out in the period from 2 to 4 years of life of the seedling on your site.

The branches are pruned in such a way that the stronger shoots form a reliable frame that protects the weaker and thinner branches. This must be done in such a way that the branches inside the frame receive a sufficient amount of sunlight. It has been noticed that trees with properly treated crowns begin to bear fruit earlier and produce more yield..

Regulating fruiting

The regularity of the resulting harvest depends on this procedure. The essence of this pruning is as follows: depending on the variety of seedling, the shoots are shortened by a certain number of buds. This number can vary from 3 to 12.

Restorative

It involves removing old, broken or diseased branches.

Rejuvenating

This type of pruning is only relevant for mature trees. Old branches are removed or shortened, leaving only young shoots. It is recommended to carry out this procedure approximately every four years.

Trimming methods

Novice amateur gardeners are concerned with the question of how to properly prune trees? We have already told you about the types of this procedure. Now it’s worth talking about the methods. Currently, two such methods are known. Let's talk about each of them in more detail.

Shortening

The idea is to prune young shoots. This is done to prevent the growth of shoots outside the crown..

This is done like this: choose a shoot that grows outward and has more than one bud. For example, if there are three buds on a shoot, it is recommended to cut off one. Next year, the pruned branch should produce three young shoots. One of them will definitely grow in the direction the gardener needs, that is, not outward from the crown, but parallel to the ground. This shoot is left, the other two are cut off.

Thinning

This type of pruning of fruit trees is considered the safest for the health of the plant. In this case, the branches are not pruned, but completely removed.

It is necessary to remove the branch at its very base. Usually there is a subtle fold of bark in this place. This fold should remain intact. Then the cut site will quickly be covered with bark, which will significantly reduce the risk of disease.

Selecting Tools

The choice of tools for pruning fruit trees plays a big role. Tools should not only be comfortable, but also well sharpened. This will not only allow you to quickly necessary work, but will also cause less discomfort to the seedling.

Here is a list of tools that should be present in any gardener’s arsenal:

Secateurs

This is probably the most popular and frequently used tool in gardening. When purchasing such garden shears, you need to pay attention to the following points: weight, sharpening and operation of the mechanism.

If you purchase a tool that does not fit your hand or is difficult to operate, the work of pruning fruit trees will take a lot of time and effort.

Hacksaw

Inexperienced gardeners often use ordinary carpenter's tools to work in the garden. This is a fundamentally wrong approach. Although a construction saw will provide a faster work process, it will cause irreparable damage to the tree. Therefore, it is best to purchase a special garden hacksaw.

Air pruner

This tool's operating principle is no different from ordinary garden shears. The only difference is the telescopic design of the device. Thanks to it, without using a ladder, you can cut branches located at a decent height from the ground.

Gasoline saw

This tool is used to trim thick branches from old trees.

How to prune correctly to increase tree productivity

Many novice gardeners do not pay due attention to this procedure. Why bother with pruning if the tree already bears fruit beautifully, they say. But the yield will be high only in the first three years, then it will decline sharply.

The crown plays a major role in the fruitfulness of a tree. It is recommended to trim and shape it from the beginning of planting the seedling in the ground. The crown should not be very thick and high. Otherwise, the abundance of branches will not pass through Sun rays, which will impede the development of fruits. In addition, processing and spraying heavily dense trees is very problematic. Accordingly, the plant will often get sick.

Pruning the garden is also necessary to ensure that the branches grow in the same direction. A chaotic accumulation of branches not only reduces the yield, but also makes harvesting difficult. Therefore, it is recommended to completely remove all shoots that grow strictly upward or downward.

Horizontal branches should not be removed; it is on them that most fruits are formed. IN as a last resort You can trim them slightly so that the branch does not break due to the abundance of fruits.

Do not leave dried, broken or frozen branches. They affect not only the yield, but also the lifespan of your garden.

IN winter time, especially with the onset of severe cold, it is recommended to trim the crown. This will allow the plant to recover faster from frost and, accordingly, produce more harvest.

When to prune

Why you need to prune fruit trees and how to do it correctly, we figured it out. Now we should talk about what time of year is best to do this.

Pruning of garden trees is carried out at any time of the year. But it is worth considering some factors. For example, the region of the country where your garden is located. Considering the vast expanses of our Motherland, each region has its own climatic conditions.

For example, in the south it is recommended to do this because there are no severe frosts there. IN middle lane In Russia, and in the north of the country, fruit trees should not be pruned. Otherwise, during severe frosts, the tree may get sick and die.

Taking these features into account, we can conclude that optimal time for cutting branches, this is early. Until the buds begin to swell. Therefore, first of all, attention is paid to old trees. Buds form on them much earlier than in young plants.

It also has its own characteristics. In general, experienced gardeners and biologists advise choosing for pruning the period when the garden is resting.

" Trees

Tree pruning is the key to success and mandatory procedure, which every experienced gardener knows about. Any fruit tree requires constant and careful care. Only in this case will it produce a rich harvest.

Fruit trees such as apple, pear and stone fruit trees need pruning. They are very picky about pruning. Why prune fruit trees?

By pruning, gardeners solve several problems at once:

1. Growth and fruiting.
2. Reducing crown dimensions.
3. The phytosanitary task is to create conditions unfavorable for pests and diseases.

The procedure of pruning trees prolongs their life and leads to a rich harvest.

If little light enters the crown, then the branches located inside the crown do not bear fruit and die over time. Fruits are formed only on those branches of the tree that receive light.

AND if tree pruning was done rarely or not at all, then the fruits will be on hard-to-reach branches, located, as a rule, high.

Thanks to the cutting procedure the tree crown is formed correctly. Which leads to the growth of side branches and allows you to get more fruits on the available branches.

When and which trees in the garden can be pruned?

Pruning fruit trees in a particular season depends on the following factors:

• what goal the gardener wants to achieve with this procedure;
• in what climatic conditions there is a garden;
• depending on the type of tree.

What time of year is it best to prune: spring, summer, winter or autumn?

In the central and northern regions of Russia It is not recommended to do autumn pruning, because due to severe frosts the wounds on the trees will not have time to heal.

This also happens because the movement of sap in the tree slows down as it goes into a dormant state. As a result, the tree may become sick and die.

Therefore, in these regions it is best to do pruning in early spring, not in the fall. It is important to consider that the procedure can be carried out as soon as the air temperature rises above 0℃.

Besides It is important to start pruning from old trees Since the buds on them swell faster than on young ones, it is recommended to prune strictly before the buds swell.

Pruning fruit trees in spring:

In the southern regions of the country, pruning can be done in winter.. This is due to the fact that in the south the frosts are not as severe as in the north.

Winter pruning is primarily carried out in order to rejuvenate old trees and create the correct crown for young seedlings.

Also winter pruning is often carried out to reduce fruiting of young trees. It is believed that a tree that produces rich harvests for 2-3 years in a row should be allowed to rest.

In addition, from high yield thin branches of a young tree may break. Therefore, it is important to trim off unnecessary branches in winter. In winter, gardeners prune first the pome-bearing species, and then the stone fruits.

The ideal dimensions of a fruit tree are 3 m in height and 3 m in width. They will allow you to collect most harvest without the help of stepladders or ladders.

Some gardeners believe that summer is the best time for pruning.. But in this case we are talking about trees 3 years old and older. They claim that pruning during the summer months results in vigorous growth of new shoots.

In addition, if you prune while the fruit is filling, the quality of the fruit will noticeably improve.

Another advantage of summer pruning is the sap released by the tree. It covers the wound, which leads to rapid healing, and also acts as protection against pests.

Majority experienced gardeners They believe that pruning is best done when the tree is resting. Therefore, preference is given to early spring.

At what age should fruit trees be pruned?

You can start doing this procedure annual shoots for crown formation.

If the tree has already reached 10-15 years of age, it is considered old. Such a tree has a reduced number of growths and productivity. It needs anti-aging pruning.

To do this, branches are cut into 3-7 year old wood. Thus, the crown is reduced. But already by next year young shoots will thicken it. It is important to ensure that the number of cuts on one side of the branch does not exceed three.

Which plants to do and which ones not to

Almost all fruit trees require pruning. Since it is precisely this that leads to an increase in yield, allows the tree to grow faster, and also protects its numerous pests and diseases.

Trim, apricot, cherry plum It is possible only when leaves appear on the trees. If this is done while the tree is dormant, pruning can lead to damage to the trees by fungi and diseases.

In summer, you can remove dried branches, also shorten new shoots and remove branches that interfere with the crown.

Features of the procedure

It is important to do tree pruning carefully and follow the basic rules so as not to cause harm.

Timing

First of all, you need to decide on the appropriate pruning season. This will depend on the type and age of the fruit trees, as well as the location of the garden and the climate.

Preparing garden tools

The availability of all the tools necessary to carry out this procedure will play a big role in the result of pruning.

In order to avoid increasing the diameter of the damaged area on the tree Only sharp tools should be used for cutting.

• garden hacksaw;
• pruner;
• air pruner - a pruner on a long rod, for cutting branches at the top;
• ladder;
• glasses;
• garden varnish or drying oil paint are the means necessary to treat the cut area.

Do not cut with a rusty tool.. Otherwise, the tree may get sick and die as a result.

Circuit and technology

Before you start cutting, it is necessary to determine why it is needed and draw up an action plan.

Below are the main goals that gardeners achieve using this procedure:

• form the correct tree crown;
• strengthen thin young shoots;
• remove crossing branches, defuse the crown to allow sunlight to penetrate into it;
• remove diseased branches, allowing them to grow healthy;
• increasing the number of fruiting branches;
• prepare the tree for winter.

If it is necessary to achieve the fastest possible growth from a fruit tree, during the pruning period it is necessary to reduce the main number of fruiting buds.

Once the goal is determined, it is important to learn pruning techniques. Several techniques are known, among which the most popular are three:

1. Bud cut. This technique helps set the correct direction for branch growth. You should find a branch with good growth. The cutting blade of the pruning shears should be turned towards the remaining part of the branch. The cut is made at a slight angle of 5 mm. in front of the kidney. New thread will grow in the direction the bud is facing.
2. Cut to ring. This technique is used when it is necessary to remove a full-fledged branch that grows inside the crown, interferes with other branches and creates density. The scheme is as follows: in the place where the branches connect, it is necessary to make a cut exactly along the outer ring.
3. Side branch cut. This technique allows you to change the direction of growth from one shoot to another. Ineffective branches are cut off, and the lateral ones take on the function of the main branches.

Good aftercare

If the cut diameter is more than 1 cm, the wound should be treated without fail. To do this, you need to buy or prepare your own garden varnish and treat the wound on the tree with it.

If for some reason the garden varnish does not apply to the wound, you can use drying oil paint.

Young fruit trees should only be pruned to form a proper crown. Otherwise, pruning may lead to a deterioration in fruit-bearing properties.

People who take care of their trees and prune them correctly and on time, always receive gratitude in the form of a good harvest.

If a person decides to do this procedure for the first time, it is very important to follow the recommendations of knowledgeable gardeners, since this process Only at first glance it seems simple.

But in fact, carelessness and ignorance can lead to the death of the plant.

Correctly done pruning can keep the plant strong, strong and beautiful. In fruit trees, the quality and quantity of the harvest is significantly improved. The most appropriate time for circumcision is the end winter period and the beginning of spring. At this time, the plant is dormant, all growth processes are still very slow, and the wood is no longer frozen. We will tell you in the article when and how fruit trees are pruned, and what rules gardeners need to follow.

Why is pruning used?

Thanks to the procedure, their favorable condition is maintained and productivity is greatly increased. The movement of air and the sun's rays entering the middle of the crown are stimulated, and this entails a decrease in the development of diseases.

In the process of light cutting, the future crown of young seedlings is laid. It can be one of three types:

• tiered with a central conductor (leader conductor);
• changed - lettered;
• cup-shaped.

Every year, “tops” are removed - young shoots growing in bunches upward around the places where the cuts were made earlier. These are unproductive branches that steal energy from the tree, create shade for ripening fruits, and do not let the sun's rays into the crown.

To prevent the appearance of lacerations, through which microorganisms harmful to plants usually penetrate, only sharp, well-sharpened tools should be used. At the end of pruning, the working surfaces of the tools in contact with the wood are carefully cleaned and wiped with an oiled cloth.

Tip #3. Along with the listed tools, get a garden pitcher. This product is used to cover cuts formed on the surface of the branches or trunk, with a diameter of 1-2 cm.

To ensure that the work done is not so traumatic for the plants, I advise you to use the following recommendation. Always use a quality tool. Buy special tool for gardening and do not allow yourself to be pruned with construction equipment. In the absence of garden varnish, it is permissible to use clay (yellow) mixed with cow manure.

How to replace pruning of fruit trees

It is not always necessary to prune a fruit tree. There are a number of ways to replace it, for example, blinding the buds, picking, ringing, pinching, changing the orientation of the branches in space. If a branch is not required in a certain area, and in its place there is already a clearly visible bud from which a branch will definitely grow, then you should blind it without waiting for growth to begin. Additional buds nearby should also be removed.

In the process of forming the crown of young plants, this method is effective. In old trees, pruning is usually replaced by breaking off shoots, and it is better to do this in the first days of summer, because the shoots are still short and not woody.

Serious mistakes made by gardeners

• The main mistake is not using varnish to treat the resulting wounds. Instead, paint (oil paint) and other putty products are mistakenly used, which is absolutely unacceptable.
• Also, you cannot clean wormholes “to sound wood” mechanically - this will radically aggravate the existing problem. To prolong the life of a tree, do not fill “wounds” (with sealant or cement) or drill holes.
• Another misconception is the attempt to tighten cracked branches and trunks with improvised means to avoid breaking the tree.
• Many people think that if large quantity fruits, there is a threat of branches breaking, then you can install supports or guy wires. It is advisable not to do this. It would be better to cut off excess fruits, which will help lighten the branches.

Some clarifications for beginners

Question No. 1. How does circumcision affect fruit growth and formation?

When shortening, the number of awakened buds is regulated, and it also gives more power in the growth of young shoots. By using mild pruning, more fruit buds can be preserved. If annual branches are greatly shortened, the length of annual growth increases, but their total length decreases on the branch. This delays the growth of shoots and there is a threat of them not ripening and freezing. Therefore, it is used very rarely - if necessary, change the shape of the crown.

Question No. 2. The most favorable time for work?

Pinching shoots that are supposed to bear fruit and do not require strong growth should be carried out in summer time. At the same time, the tops are removed; they usually grow in places where large cuts are made, when the central conductor is cut off and the height of the plant is reduced.

Question No. 3. How does the plant react to pruning?

Subsequently, pruning radically changes the growth of shoots. Any work carried out correctly will not affect the growth of nearby branches. When all the branches of the above-ground part of the tree are shortened, this provokes a decrease in volume, but on the contrary, well-developed roots improve the growth process of all branches, as they provide them with enough useful substances.

Question No. 4. How to remove it correctly?

Thick branches are worked with a garden hacksaw, and thin branches are worked with pruning shears. Remember about proper care for inventory and its high quality. The cut of an annual shoot onto a bud is made so that at the top it passes over the bud, and at the bottom – at the level of its beginning.

During the process of shortening, their condition should be studied in detail: the weakest and most unproductive ones are cut off. If voluminous branches on the trunk are cut out, you should also adhere to the rule: a bead is placed at the base of the branch, removal is carried out along it.

To summarize, it should be emphasized that garden pruning of trees plays an important role in the efficient and productive cultivation of healthy and strong plants. Also, work done correctly increases productivity significantly. The main condition is to follow simple recommendations and rules in the process of pruning trees, use high-quality equipment and do the work annually. Then your garden will delight you high yield, and the trees will always be healthy and beautiful.

Necessary event. Its goal is to improve its health, direct its growth in the right direction and achieve abundant fruiting. Pruning in no way contradicts, but quite the opposite - it keeps pace with the laws of nature, relying on them. In essence, this is an imitation of natural processes, which is one of the measures for caring for cultural garden trees and not allowing them to go wild.

Thanks to proper pruning, each tree branch receives required amount light and your own space without disturbing others. Pruning is also used as a therapeutic measure for various fractures due to natural processes.

Finally, by trimming old dead branches, you free the tree from excess weight and allow it to direct its efforts to growth and development, and you save yourself from the danger of breaking off dry branches that can fall at the most inopportune time and place.

In this article we will look at the types of pruning of fruit trees, find out when it is better to prune them - in spring or autumn, summer or winter, and also study a video for beginners.

Garden pruning is a procedure that has great importance for the condition of the plants and the quality of the harvest. It regulates metabolic processes within the tree, redistributing vital resources and directing them to the required parts of the tree.

Together with other agrotechnical methods pruning brings balance to all parts of the tree:

• roots;
• wood;
• leaves;
• fruit.

During its existence, the fruit tree constantly changes, grows with at different speeds V different time, directing forces:

• to strengthen the root system;
• to increase green mass;
• for intensive growth;
• for flowering and fruiting;
• for protection against diseases;
• to prepare for a period of calm, and so on.

Based on the intended goals, they divide six types of pruning:

1. - delays aging and prolongs life.
2. Formative- models appearance crowns
3. Regulatory- regulates fruiting.
4. Restorative- tones up parts of the plant.
5. Sanitary- heals the tree and removes excess load.
6. Supportive- refreshes and rewards with new strength.

Rejuvenating

After the tree begins to bear fruit, after 2-3 years it is necessary shorten too long branches, which will “awaken” the accessory buds, limit the growth of branches, form a crown, rid the plant of dead fragments and give it the opportunity to improve its health. This measure is also applied if flowering activity has decreased.

In addition, such an event will significantly improve the aesthetics of the appearance of the tree. Rejuvenating pruning involves the removal of thickening and hanging branches and excess top shoots; skeletal and semi-skeletal branches are made from those located in a good location. This procedure can be carried out both in the fall and at the end of winter and at the beginning of spring approximately every three years.

Formative

With the help of formative pruning, it simulates the appearance of the tree, the load on its skeletal part, and allows the plant to develop evenly.

Did you know? It is curious that if the procedure is carried out in February, the branches will begin to grow intensively, while in Marchpruning will slow down this process.

Purposes of shaping pruning:

• acceleration of flowering;
• increasing productivity;
• well-groomed appearance;
• ensuring uniform access of the sun to the crown;
• increasing endurance;
• ease of access to branches for harvesting and care.

Formative pruning is not a one-time event; using this technique will last for several years. The crown of the tree is gradually formed by uniformly placing well-lit branches in it throughout the entire skeletal part of the tree. An adult tree that has lost a skeletal branch due to breakage, aging or death, or that has acquired one, may also need it.

Regulatory

With adjustable trim the already formed crown is preserved in the desired form, branches are provided uniform lighting, excess young shoots are removed. With its help, the gardener maintains a balance of fruit growth and yield and creates conditions for wood renewal and growth rate.

It is carried out from the end of February to April, as well as from August to September, and is actively used in industrial gardens.

Restorative

If the plant is damaged for some reason, restorative pruning will help restore it to the possibility of further development. With her help form a crown of acceptable size, achieve a balance of its constituent parts, control the number of growing shoots and improve illumination. After such an intervention, the crown returns to its full potential, it becomes able to grow and bear fruit.

During the event, diseased and broken branches are removed. It is also used:

• to damaged trees mechanically or frostbite;
• if a tree for a long time was not trimmed and now has a rather neglected appearance;
• when excessive growth of the crown has occurred, interfering with neighboring plants and making harvesting and necessary care difficult;
• if it has become difficult for light to break through the dense branches of the crown and the lower branches are experiencing a lack of sunlight.

Sanitary

Sanitary pruning is carried out as planned treatment and as an emergency aid. Like most therapeutic measures, it should be carried out as needed, when the plant is sick, has acquired dried or broken branches, or has frostbite.

This can be done at any time of the year, the only obstacle is frost, and best time It is considered the beginning of summer when the tree wakes up. Regular and annual sanitary pruning will improve the health of the tree, give it a decent appearance, thin out the crown, and prevent infectious and fungal infections.

It should be remembered that an overly radical procedure will entail consequences in the form of an overly thickened crown. You should also take into account the age of the tree and its size.

Supportive

• do not let growing branches go beyond the boundaries of the formed crown;
• keep the crown in a state of permeability to the sun;
• avoid exposing large branches;
• rid skeletal branches of young shoots that bother them;
• maintain the health and tone of the tree for active growth and stable fruiting.

Determining factors and timing of pruning

The main burden on the gardener falls at a time when the frosts have already passed and have not yet begun, that is, from the end of February and throughout almost the entire spring. During this period, there is no longer any need to be afraid that frost will damage the freshly pruned plant, and at the same time it will not be lost along with the cut parts. nutrients.

In some cases, pruning is possible up to the flowering period.

Did you know? An unusual double tree grows in the city of Piedmont, Italy. It came from a tree on the top of which a cherry pit, who knows how, had sprouted. While developing, the cherry pierced through the mulberry trunk, and now they are a single whole, each remaining themselves.

Early spring is the time when fruit trees begin to be pruned. The first “swallows” in this matter are pomegranates, and pome fruits in general. Stone fruits are started a little later.

The determining factors for a particular type of pruning are:

• tree species;
• condition of fruit plantings.

Apple trees- the most resistant crops, which are less affected by unfavorable conditions than others. The work of healing, rejuvenation and correction begins with them, and ends with them.

The branches of apple trees are susceptible to freezing at the ends even in frosty conditions; it is better to remove this kind of damage closer to mid-May.

With cherries, sweet cherries and plums, the principle approach is as follows:

• Strong cherries should be pruned after the harvest;
• if the cherry is weak, pruning in winter will help - this will stimulate the growth of new shoots in the spring;
• It is recommended to prune the plum during the harvesting process, or in mid or late June.

Pinch shoots in the summer to save the plant strength for more important matters. Autumn pruning of fruit trees is sanitary.

Important! In the case when branches withbroke down under the weight of snow, ortrunk split during a snowstorm, pruning should be done as soon as possible.

in spring

You can start pruning fruit trees in the spring after the main frosts have subsided, but it would be right if the gardener waits until the time when the sap flow is about to start.

This time is considered the most suitable, since the plant tissues during this period are already prepared for the processes that are about to begin to occur in them. A cut under such conditions will heal as quickly as possible - of course, if it is made correctly and processed properly. If a formative procedure is required, this can be waited, or even managed another year.

So, the basic rules that every gardener should follow:

• the earliest time you can start pruning is the time when the main frosts have gone, but it is better to wait until the juices are ready for the movement to begin;
• the cut is made above the eye growing from the crown in the outer direction, making it smooth and even from the inside out.
• the skeletal branches with which the trunk continues remain longer;
• weak trees are pruned short, leaving two or three buds; strong trees are left with eight buds or more.

In summer

The concept of “summer pruning” includes several techniques carried out with green shoots that have not yet acquired bark, in order to thin the crown to allow access to sunlight:

• pinching- so that shoots grow from the awakened buds, which will have time to prepare for wintering;
• tweezing- for the development of full-fledged wood formation in the uterine branch, which will help speed up and improve fruiting;
• breakage- to remove young shoots that have no value for the crown, is easily tolerated and does not require treatment;
• fracture- a rarely used technique to give growing branches the required direction;
• pruning- to obtain a flower bud near the beginning of the shoot already in the year when it began to grow.

Did you know? Designers have learned to shape living, growing trees into various objects, such as furniture, using various agricultural techniques, including pruning.

in autumn

Autumn pruning is carried out mainly for sanitary purposes; or, if the tree is planned to be rejuvenated in the spring, protective links are left. Also good this technique It is at this time of year that it is very special. Trees begin to be pruned in the fall when when leaves fall.

If you cut off an annual shoot, frost can damage not only the place where the cut is located, but also a decent area around it, and this certainly cannot be called successful healing. It will be difficult for such a tree during wintering, which will have a bad effect on the buds in the spring. The further north the garden is located, the higher the risk.

However, if there is a need for sanitary pruning, the above considerations lose their relevance; vital signs matter here, as they say in medicine. The affected plant must be treated so that the infection does not spread further, much less spread to neighboring plants. In such cases, the amputated affected parts must be burned.

Fruit trees don't take kindly to autumn pruning, and some may die or become very ill after it - for example, plum, cherry or pear. It will also not have the best effect on young seedlings.

in winter

Winter pruning is more appropriate in southern regions, where frosts are rare and winters are mild. It's good because:

• plants experience less stress because they are dormant;
• the cuts made are more accurate and of higher quality;
• It helps that there are no leaves at all, and all the branches are very clearly visible.

When a tree is damaged due to strong wind, icing of branches or excessive weight of snow, and, moreover, threatens with further splitting or breaking, the gardener does not face the question of whether it can be pruned. You need to prune, you just have to wait for the first opportunity, namely, the decrease or absence of frost.

What to do after pruning

Any circumcision leaves a wound surface from which moisture evaporates. It is also, in fact, an open gate for all kinds of infections. Small sections can heal on their own, but large areas, from 2.5 cm in diameter, need to be treated.

Important! In young peach and apricot trees, when planting and pruning, even the tiniest wounds need to be lubricated until the tree gets stronger and grows. In mature apricots and peach, small sections can no longer be processed.

No matter how sharp the saw or hacksaw used to make the cut, in any case the surface after it will not be smooth, so it needs to be cleaned with a sharp garden knife. Then - handle special means, intended for wound healing; for example, or oil-based paint.

You cannot use any other paints other than oil paints - the solvents included in their composition will have a detrimental effect on the wood, penetrating into its tissues through a fresh cut. To apply the product, use a spatula, brush or cut knot.

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