How to clean a gas heating boiler: chemical and mechanical cleaning. How to clean a gas boiler: several simple methods Chemical cleaning of boilers from soot

Often in country houses closed ones are used heating systems. When it is possible to connect a heating unit to a gas main, then solid fuel boilers are used.

It is necessary to periodically clean it from resins, soot and tar. Proper care the product will extend its service life.

Fuel and consequences of combustion

Heating devices can operate on several types solid fuel depending on design:

firewood;
peat.

When burning any type of solid fuel, residues appear - soot deposits, resin, tar. They need to be removed from the system regularly. Ash, ash and other combustion products accumulate on the surfaces of the combustion chamber. This may interfere with the stability of the device and cause malfunctions.

Causes of solid fuel combustion products:

Appearance of soot:

there is not enough oxygen in the system and the combustion process is unstable;
not high enough.

Appearance of resin:

low quality fuel;
crude fuel;
the temperature in the boiler is not high enough;
Too much fuel loaded.

Appearance of tar:

weak air flow entering the combustion chamber;
the unit is not designed correctly;

Unwanted waste occurs as a result of improper operation. These factors also increase equipment wear.

The benefits of regular brushing

Cleaning a solid fuel boiler with your own hands is quite simple, especially with the help of special tools and funds. There are only four methods for cleaning solid fuel boilers at home.

You can clean the boiler using:

pokers;
various special scrapers;
blades of different widths;
metal brushes;
ruffs;
special means for cleaning boilers.

Safety rules for cleaning:

Do-it-yourself cleaning using tools and products is carried out only after complete shutdown of the boiler.
In no case Do not clean a running or hot boiler.
When servicing the boiler, the damper must be fully open.

Dry cleaning

The writing of this publication was prompted by a chain of events that forced me to try my hand at self-service gas boiler. Let me note right away that this is not exactly an “exchange of best practices”, as it is usually presented, since some of the facts presented speak, on the contrary, about the initial complete inexperience of the user. But perhaps the information presented will help those who read it avoid such mistakes.

The fact is that with the seeming abundance of information on the Internet, I had to face the fact that it is not so easy to find clear step-by-step instructions - most often everything is limited to selective advice on forums. The factory instruction manual covers many problems rather dryly and does not provide much clarity, and some important aspects in general, it is practically omitted, which, in principle, led to the situation that will be discussed. So, what caused and how did you clean the gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3 with your own hands?

B purchased own house we moved in in September 2002. There was (and remains) a heating system, but then it was organized on the principle of natural circulation. The boiler room is in a separate extension, equipped in accordance with all existing rules. An old cast iron boiler with gas burners, some, as I remember now, incredible large sizes, also with “home-made” fireclay brickwork inside. It was complete ruin: every month in our not-so-cold winters (Moldova, Transnistria) the meter added 800 cubic meters!

In a word, it was decided to carry out a replacement. We chose the AOGV-11.6-3-U, both for reasons of low cost and taking into account the weight good reviews about this model from friends. At the same time, it was installed circulation pump. The results were not long in coming - the next winter the house was much more comfortable, and the heat was distributed evenly throughout all rooms. And monthly gas consumption has dropped by more than three times! – we usually fit in 220 – 270 cubic meters.

To the credit of the manufacturers, it must be said right away that over the past 13 years there have been absolutely no problems with the operation of these purchased devices. Even in cold winter 2008-2009, when the next “gas war” was going on, and the pressure in the gas supply pipes was reduced to a critical minimum, the boiler coped with the task quite well - the house was not hot, and we were not in danger of freezing. To be honest, it was even strange for me to read on the forums that many people at home have a gas valve button permanently connected to them - no problems with the automation have simply appeared during the entire period of operation.

Visits of gas inspectors in our city are carried out regularly. There have never been any particular complaints about the operation of the equipment. The only remark was the year before last - to replace the corrugated section of the chimney (before inserting into the main pipe) with one made of galvanized steel. The deficiency has been corrected.

This year the cold snap came a little early, and already at the beginning of October it was decided to start the boiler at the very minimum power. But a problem emerged - the igniter wick did not want to light up, and if it did, it was with such a tiny flame that it was barely visible. Naturally, such a torch did not provide heating for the thermocouple, and the automation did not work.

A similar situation (but on a smaller scale: the torch lit up immediately, but was weak) was observed a year earlier. The igniter nozzle was clearly clogged, and last year it helped that I (at my own risk) managed to spray this “jet” with a can of carburetor cleaning fluid through a long curved tube. After the liquid had evaporated, I tried to light it - everything worked, and last winter, throughout the whole heating season There were no more problems.

Last year we managed to do without any disassembly - the nozzle was cleared of such carburetor fluid

But this year, such a measure turned out to be insufficient - the effect was even the opposite. The igniter stopped lighting altogether.

I really didn’t want to completely remove the entire gas assembly with burners (and at that time I didn’t even know how accessible it was). I tried unscrewing the gas supply tube to the igniter from the magnetic valve block and blowing it out using a car pump. Useless. There is nothing to do - I had to think about how to remove the entire burner block in order to carry out mechanical cleaning ignition nozzles.

The boiler is, of course, tied up, the system is full. Access from below is minimal, since the boiler is still standing in a special pit. All this was very scary at first - how to dismantle the gas unit? Sound advice I didn’t find it, but I came across a hint on one of the forums - this node rotates about the central axis - the input gas pipe.

Since operations of any significant scale were not expected, I did not take photos at that stage. The operations shown below were carried out later, when the boiler was disassembled again. But the essence remains the same.

So, if you try to look at the boiler from below (for the initial examination of the “situation” I initially used a mirror placed underneath), something like this appears:

The burner block itself is mounted on the bottom cover. Arrow pos. Figure 1 shows the entrance of the gas supply pipe to the main burner. Pos. 2 is the input of the igniter and thermocouple tubes. And this entire assembly, in addition to the rigidity of the gas pipe, is held on the flange of the cylindrical casing of the boiler by three hooks. They are located along the edge of the bottom plate at the vertices of a regular triangle. The blue arrow shows one of them, the one located slightly to the left of the ignition window.

The second hook is closer to the back of the boiler on the left (if you stand facing the ignition window).

The third is almost exactly under the automation unit, at the level of the vertical tubes going down to the pan.

After a thorough inspection of the entire bottom part, I did not find any other fastening or fixing elements. This means that there must be grooves through which these protrusions can be removed from engagement with the casing flange. As a result, it turned out that there is only one groove, and it is located in the area of the third hook (as shown). To get to it, the pallet must be turned slightly clockwise. In the illustration, the direction of rotation is shown with a green arrow. By the way, the opening unpainted section of the casing is also clearly visible - you can see how the pan moves.
I figured out the principle of fastening. But in order to rotate the pan and remove the burner block, naturally, it is necessary to disconnect the gas pipe, igniter tube and thermocouple contact tube from the automation unit.
First of all, I checked again whether the gas supply from the home wiring was shut off.

Then he carefully unscrewed the nuts on the fittings of the automation unit.

1 – gas supply tube to the igniter torch. Key for 12.

2 – tube with thermocouple contact. Key for 12.

3 – gas supply pipe to the main burner. The key is 27.

The paronite gasket on the main gas pipe was removed. Checked it - excellent condition. On the flare tube, the gasket remained on the tee fitting, but it is also clear that it is not worn out and will still serve quite well.

After disassembling this unit, the pan turned quite easily, and through the groove closest to the tubes, the holder came out of engagement with the casing. Now, supporting the pallet from below, we slightly push it towards ourselves - and the other two holders also come out of engagement. We lower the entire assembly to the floor, and then carefully pull it out between the legs of the boiler.

The photo shows the removed pan, but I’ll make a reservation once again - the photos were taken later, during the secondary disassembly of the boiler. The first time the picture was much “cleaner”. Further, in the text it will be clear why so much attention is paid to this.

I checked the condition of the main burner - it was completely clean, without signs of any deformation. There were no complaints about her work.
Then he moved on to the “culprit” of this whole undertaking - the ignition torch nozzle. I unscrewed the two screws holding this assembly (wick plus thermocouple) in the assembled position. The screws, however, resisted at first, but after treatment with WD-40 they still worked. I removed the box-shaped casing from the pilot burner and got to the nozzle.

The brass nozzle itself was covered on top with a light white coating (like scale), and this was removed very quickly, without effort, with fine sandpaper. The nozzle itself, yes, was overgrown, barely “drawn” even visually. It’s also okay - I took a thin copper strand from the loose cable and cleaned the hole. To guarantee, I also blew it under pressure with a pump from the side connecting the tube to the tee of the automation unit. All task completed!

At the same time, while there is free access, I very carefully cleaned the bend of the thermocouple tube with “zero” sandpaper: there was a very light layer of oxide there - it had accumulated during the summer period of inactivity.
I carefully reassembled all the components in the reverse order. I struggled a bit with reinstalling the pallet, but then I got the hang of it.

You must first progressively, without distortion, lift this entire block so that the burner goes inside the housing, and the igniter and thermocouple assembly does not cling to the casing flange. Then, standing on the side of the pipes, slightly push this entire assembly towards you, give a slight downward tilt so that the opposite edge of the pan rises slightly (literally a couple of degrees!). Then, when moving the pallet forward, you should simultaneously put on two distant hooks so that they fit onto the casing flange. Direct the hook closest to you into the cut-out groove, and when it fits into it, turn the entire pallet counterclockwise. The magnitude of this rotation will be visually indicated by the position of the pipes - the gas pipe will be directly under its branch pipe of the automation unit, as it was during disassembly.

I installed all the tubes in place, having first checked the presence and correct fit of the gaskets. Tightened the nuts on the gas supply pipe and on the igniter tube with a wrench. Before reinstalling the thermocouple tube, I very carefully, literally barely touching it, cleaned the contact pads with a “null” pad. This nut, in accordance with the recommendations I read, was tightened not with a wrench, but by hand, using only finger force.
I checked the tightness of the connections - I brought a sponge from the kitchen with detergent, opened the gas supply, “washed” the joints of the gas pipes - everything is fine, there are no signs of leakage.
I tried to start the boiler. The wick lit up perfectly - with an even flame, “washing” the bend of the thermocouple. Literally after 15-20 seconds - it worked gas valve. I waited a couple of minutes, then turned on the gas supply to the main burner - it burned smoothly, without a pop. I experimented - I closed and opened the supply to the main burner several times: everything is fine - the wick burns evenly, does not go out, the burner ignites just as normally.

That's it, I set approximately the desired heating level, closed the flap on the ignition window, and left, full of pride for the job successfully done.

Little did I know then that my “adventures” were just beginning!

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Unexpected problem

For several days the operation of the boiler did not cause any complaints - it did not go out, the heating system worked well. However, about a week passed, and it seemed to me that a previously unusual smell had appeared in the boiler room - this was not the smell of gas in pure form, but rather the “aroma” of burnt gas. In addition, the impression began to emerge that, according to the feelings of those at home, there was a lack of warmth.

A couple of times the boiler went out at night - for no apparent reason. Well, then - more. About a week later, when I entered the boiler room, I saw an eerie picture - the burner flame was trying to “get out” through the ignition window covered with a shield. Enough large plot The metal casing above the window was almost red-hot, the paint on it was completely scorched, down to the “pure” metal.

Naturally, the boiler was immediately extinguished. After it cooled down, I tried, as an experiment, to ignite it. The wick works fine, the automation also works well. But when the main burner is ignited, then, firstly, the flame has pronounced orange ends of the flames. And secondly, the “crown” of the flame is not directed completely upward, but also tends into the gap between the heat exchanger and the outer casing of the boiler.

It’s clear - this is a clear sign that the flow of hot gases inside the boiler encounters some kind of resistance, in a word - the channels are overgrown with soot. There is soot everywhere, even on the edge of the ignition window - I have never before gotten my hands dirty when igniting, but now black spots appear on my fingers, which, by the way, are very difficult to wash off even with warm water and soap.

But the question remains unclear - why? After all, in so many years we have never encountered such a problem.

I went back to the forums to look for the reason. And on one of them I came across useful advice– this picture is characteristic of incomplete combustion of gas, without supply extra air. I began to understand more closely the design of my boiler, and discovered something that I simply had not paid attention to before. This is a clamp-shaped valve at the entrance of the gas pipe to the boiler, from below, right at the pan. There on the pipe there are two diametrically opposite holes, which are covered by this damper.

I ran to check: it’s true – the damper almost completely covers both holes. Poor knowledge of the “material parts” led to the fact that I completely did not pay attention to this nuance. And in the process of disassembling the burner block, apparently, he accidentally moved this damper to a position in which the air supply was blocked.

I tried to open these windows and ignite the boiler - yes, the flame immediately changed color and became more even. But the “crown”, naturally, still tends to the space between the casing and the heat exchanger, that is, the reason found does not save me from cleaning the boiler.

Cleaning the boiler

It is clear that in order to carry out cleaning I need to disassemble again - also dismantle the burner block, and in addition to this - remove top cover boiler

I had to struggle a bit with removing the umbrella, which turns into metal part chimney. The fact is that the boiler room itself is made of brick, of the original type, installed on a foundation, and two pipes are built into it - from the boiler and, higher up, from the gas water heater.

I embedded the boiler pipe myself, did it in good time, and it “fits” very tightly. I had to make an effort to achieve a slight backlash. But in the end it worked - we managed to lift it enough to have enough clearance to remove the umbrella from the pipe. The picture that emerged was very colorful.

Deposits of soot are visible under the umbrella itself. And if you look at the umbrella from below, then on the hemispherical divider-condensate collector there is a soft, loose layer of soot about 10 millimeters thick.

To remove the top cover of the boiler, you must first disconnect and dismantle the draft sensor. It is held on the lid by plates, which are screwed with two self-tapping screws (shown by blue arrows in the illustration above). But no matter how much I twisted these screws, they turned in place without moving upward even a millimeter. In the end, I gave up on the matter and decided to remove the cover along with the sensor. To do this, first use a 14mm wrench to unscrew the nut connecting the tube to the tee of the automation unit.

I immediately checked the paronite gasket - it was “alive”, remained in place, and therefore decided not to disturb it.

Then, it would seem, everything is simple - the lid is fixed to the boiler casing with three self-tapping screws.

The self-tapping screw, which is located on the front side of the boiler, came out quite easily.

But the other two showed “fierce resistance.” They simply did not want to budge. Neither powerful screwdrivers, nor WD-40 treatment, nor tapping helped - they stood motionless.

In the end, the slots for the screwdriver began to “lick” - but still with the same zero result. There was only one way out - to cut off the heads of the screws with a grinder, fortunately, they were not made “under countersunk”.

No problem - I cut it very carefully. Looking ahead, I will say that I subsequently replaced these mounts with roofing screws with a hexagon head - in case of future boiler cleaning. It holds even better, and unscrewing it won’t be a problem.

The lid fit tightly, and I even had to tap it a little from below - resting a wooden block against the lower edge. After that, she took off smoothly.

On back side The lids clearly show traces that remain due to improper passage of combustion products. They found their way between the heat exchanger and the boiler casing, then converging towards the central opening of the chimney.

Naturally, there is no need to talk about any efficiency of the boiler in such a situation - it rather heated the boiler room rather than giving off heat to the system. It is better to remain silent about the safety of such functioning.

The water heat exchanger of the boiler is covered with a lid on top. It is fixed and pressed tightly to it using special fasteners - metal wedges (they are shown in the illustration above with yellow arrows). These fasteners are very easy to remove.

I thought they were spring - nothing like that. These wedges are made of ordinary mild steel, and their antennae are bent in the same way as ordinary cotter pins. They are easily brought to the center, and then the wedge is removed from the slot.

In the same way, removed all the stoppers and then removed the cover. And I was horrified...

This small gap between the heat exchanger and the lid, in which gas flows from three channels must be combined into one central one to exit into the chimney, is tightly clogged with soot.

Now it is necessary to remove the gas flow turbulator inserts from the heat exchanger channels. They gave way up without much resistance when I picked them up with pliers.

The picture turned out even worse than I could have imagined - the layer of soot on the turbulator blades is impressively thick!

At the same time, I immediately look at the condition of these vertical cylindrical channels. The picture matches...

Naturally, even if we “bracket out” the draft problems, there is no question of any efficiency of the boiler operation with the heat exchanger so overgrown on the outside.

Next, I removed the boiler pan with the burner block - I have already described how this operation is performed above.

That's it, you can proceed directly to cleaning all nodes. For this operation, an ordinary plastic brush for bottles was purchased from a hardware store - it will be suitable for vertical channels. Tied it with duct tape wooden slats to go through the channels along their entire height.

I know that the “classic” for home crafts is blue electrical tape, but I only had white :)

And to clean other parts and surfaces, I purchased a flat brush with soft brass bristles.

I start cleaning from the top plane of the heat exchanger - I clean and sweep down all the soot deposits. It turned out as shown in the illustration above.
Then I move on to cleaning the channels. The soot comes off the walls quite easily - it has not yet had time to “harden”. Characteristically, it is very oily.

After cleaning the boiler itself, I move on to the removed parts and assemblies. In order not to spread excess dirt in the boiler room, I move all this action to the yard.

The burner itself was clean this time too, except for the soot that attacked from above - it was easily brushed off. At the same time, I immediately lightly clean the thermocouple tube with a “zero” - it won’t hurt.

After completing the cleaning operation, I proceed to reassembling the boiler. First, I installed the burner block in place - this has already been described above. I immediately connected all the tubes, checked the gaskets and tightened the nuts.

And here I immediately focused my attention on the position of the air channel valve. When cleaning, I removed this clamp from the pipe (I don’t know why, though), but when reverse installation It turned out that it was made of mild steel and did not have any springing properties. After installation, it began to dangle and simply slide down. I had to make a small improvement - drill holes in the “ears”, and after putting the flap on, tighten it slightly with a long M5 screw. It turned out fine - now the clamp is securely held in the given position, but moving it is not difficult.

The illustration shows that the air holes are half open.

The next step is to put the turbulators in place.

The installation of turbulators is very simple, and it is simply impossible to make a mistake here - they are inserted into the channels and held in them due to the widening of the central metal plate. I insert them so that this plate is oriented along the radius of the cylindrical heat exchanger, that is, the blades will be located approximately tangential to the circle.

The next step is to replace the heat exchanger cover. The lugs for the clamps fit into the slots in the cover.

I insert metal cotter pins into the eyelet slots and lightly tap them from the back so that the lid fits as tightly as possible to the heat exchanger. After that, I spread the antennae with pliers - that’s it, the lid is securely fastened.

Next, I replace the top cover of the boiler. Get your bearings with her correct position The holes from the only self-tapping screw that came out normally help. In my case, the traction sensor was not removed - it is already in place, and all that remains is to connect its tube to the tee and tighten the nut.

I complete the assembly by installing the cap. I slide it under the pipe, put it on its socket (it fits very tightly), and then carefully put it in place. The three protrusions on the cap should fit into the corresponding holes in the boiler lid, and the cut out semicircular window will be placed above the passing temperature sensor tube.

Naturally, after this all connections were checked for leaks.
I move on to the long-awaited moment - starting the boiler. The wick caught fire immediately, and within 15 seconds the magnetic valve activated. So far so good.

I open the gas supply - the burner ignites easily, the fire burns with an even crown, with the same height of the flames, and they do not look to the sides, but are directed clearly upward, which is what needed to be proven!

I tried to “play” with the air damper. As a result, I had to open it a little more - I achieved an even blue flame, practically without any admixtures of red or orange tints. The experimental shutdown and gas supply (simulation of boiler shutdowns and starts) was successful - the pilot flame is stable, and the burner lights up immediately and almost silently.

Two weeks have passed since then - there have been no complaints about the operation of the boiler! Winter is ahead, and I hope that the heating system will not give us any unpleasant surprises.

And for myself I decided the following:

Be more attentive to the details of any design - everything has its purpose, and ill-considered actions can lead to emergency situations.
The cleaning process has been mastered, it is not so complicated, so I will carry it out regularly - before the start of each heating season, at least for prevention.

Find out how to produce by studying the mandatory requirements in a special article on our portal.

The author is aware that similar works, in general, should be carried out by appropriate specialists. Therefore, this article should not be regarded as a guide to action, but only as a narrative about what happened - about how one very small mistake, inattention, led to serious problems and demanded their urgent removal. I hope that the information received will be useful to someone.

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How to clean a gas boiler from soot: step-by-step instruction And detailed video

In order for home heating to occur efficiently and uninterruptedly, all elements of the heating system must be in excellent working condition.

The main heating device is a gas boiler. For it to work stably, you need to carry it out regularly. Maintenance. An important maintenance operation is cleaning the boiler from carbon deposits and soot. Let's talk in more detail about how to effectively clean the boiler.

In contact with

Causes and consequences of soot

Clogged chimney Carbon deposits in the boiler are a product of gas combustion. When exiting through the chimney, this mixture, which consists of organic compounds and carbon, sticks to the walls of the boiler and chimney.

Untimely cleaning of the boiler and chimney can lead to the following consequences:

craving decreases, and as a result, carbon monoxide may begin to enter the home, and this, in turn, can cause severe damage to the health of household members;
the accumulation of soot in the chimney can cause a fire, in other words, the level of fire safety is significantly reduced;
the appearance of carbon deposits on the walls of the boiler significantly reduces the heat transfer to the heating elements;
accumulated soot significantly reduces boiler performance, which leads to increased gas consumption.

These points once again confirm that regular cleaning boiler and chimney are simply necessary. Before cleaning a gas boiler from carbon deposits, first of all, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for carrying out this type of work, and also have everything at hand necessary tools and materials.

Boiler cleaning tools

To ensure proper cleaning gas equipment from soot and soot, you need, first of all, to acquire necessary set tool.

This kit should include:

Having required kit tools, you can proceed directly to cleaning the boiler and chimney.

Procedure

In order to carry out the correct and effective cleaning gas boiler from soot and soot, you must perform the following steps:

Specialist's note: In order to correctly reassemble the boiler, during disassembly it is necessary to carefully remember the location of all dismantled components and parts.

Thus, we have talked in great detail about how to properly clean a gas boiler and chimney from soot. We will be glad if you use our advice!

Watch the video in which an experienced user clearly shows how to clean a gas boiler (AOGV) from soot:

In order for home heating to occur efficiently and uninterruptedly, all elements of the heating system must be in excellent working condition.

The main heating device is. In order for it to work stably, it must be regularly maintained. An important maintenance operation is cleaning the gas boiler from carbon deposits and soot. Let's talk in more detail about how to effectively clean the boiler.

Causes and consequences of soot

Carbon deposits in the boiler are a product of gas combustion. When exiting through the chimney, this mixture, which consists of organic compounds and carbon, adheres to the walls of the boiler and chimney.

Untimely cleaning of the boiler and chimney can lead to the following consequences:

draft decreases, and as a result, carbon monoxide may begin to enter the home, and this, in turn, can cause severe damage to the health of household members;
the accumulation of soot in the chimney can cause a fire, in other words, the level of fire safety is significantly reduced;
the appearance of carbon deposits on the walls of the boiler significantly reduces the heat transfer to the heating elements;
accumulated soot significantly reduces boiler performance, which leads to increased gas consumption.

These points once again confirm that regular cleaning of the boiler and chimney is simply necessary. Before removing carbon deposits, first of all, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for carrying out this type of work, and also have all the necessary tools and materials at hand.

The appearance of soot can lead to the extinguishing of a gas boiler:

Boiler cleaning tools

In order to efficiently clean gas equipment from soot and deposits, you must first of all acquire the necessary set of tools.

This kit should include:

Having the necessary set of tools, you can proceed directly to cleaning the boiler and chimney.

Procedure

In order to properly and effectively clean a gas boiler from soot and carbon deposits, it is necessary to perform the following steps:

Specialist's note: In order to correctly reassemble the boiler, during disassembly it is necessary to carefully remember the location of all dismantled components and parts.

Thus, we have talked in great detail about how to properly clean a gas boiler and chimney from soot. We will be glad if you use our advice!

Watch the video in which an experienced user clearly shows how to clean a gas boiler (AOGV) from soot:

Many exploit heating devices without caring for them properly. Do you carry out breakdown prevention? This must be done regularly, then the equipment will not break down, and your home will be comfortable. How to clean a gas boiler? You can call a specialist who will do all the work. Or you can clean it yourself. Forget about spending on service maintenance- we will tell you how to remove soot and scale.

Why do you need to clean a gas boiler?

Most often, heating units and combustion products removal systems become clogged. Scale may form on elements that come into contact with water. Gas exhaust pipes accumulate soot and soot.

Heating occurs due to the heat exchanger. IN double-circuit boilers" ", " ", " " two radiators are installed. One is a curved tube through which water circulates for the heating system. The second consists of plates and is used to provide hot water supply (DHW).

The harder the water in the region, the faster scale will form. During heating above 60 degrees, active deposition of salts occurs on the walls of the heat exchangers.

How can you understand that it is time to clean the device:

The coolant heats up slowly;
Low heat transfer with high fuel consumption;
Noise and hum during equipment operation;
Reduced pressure when opening the mixer.

Scale narrows the passages in the pipes, so the pressure drops. Because of this, there is an additional load on the circulation pump. The radiator does not transfer heat well, which can cause it to overheat and fail.

The chimney, fireplace, and smoke exhaust pipes are susceptible to soot accumulation. During combustion, fuel impurities - carbon, organics - settle on the walls. What does this lead to:

The draft disappears, which is why carbon monoxide can enter the room;
The level of fire safety is reduced. Large accumulations of soot may ignite;
The flame in the burner becomes unstable or disappears;
Efficiency decreases due to plaque on the walls;
Gas consumption increases.

How often and what parts need to be cleaned

The equipment needs external and internal cleaning. How often should a heat exchanger be descaled? Experts recommend doing this once a year. What other floor and wall-mounted boiler need to clear:

burner;
igniter;
filters;
nozzles;
coaxial chimney, conventional shaft;
pipes;
firebox

Let's look at how to properly clean components in boilers "", "", "" and others with your own hands.

Heat exchanger

The operation of all double-circuit boilers is controlled by a three-way valve. It switches heat from one radiator to another, so you need to monitor its functionality.

The principle of cleaning it, the choice of suitable remedy. Radiators are distinguished:

Bithermal. The design consists of two tubes, heating is carried out simultaneously for DHW and heating. Such products are difficult to clean;
Lamellar. Consist of layers of plates;
Fire tubes. Liquid circulates through the coil tube. More often found in floor-standing units "", "", "".

What kind of washing happens:

Chemical;
Mechanical;
Hydrodynamic;
Electric discharge.

To work you will need:

wrench;
brush-brush;
metal brush, made of lint;
screwdriver.

First you need to get to the node.

Close the gas valve;
Remove the cover. This may require unscrewing the bolts;
Disconnect the sensors connected to the heat exchanger.

For proper cleaning, the unit must be dismantled. Using a brush and brush, clean the surface and internal parts from soot, dust, soot. If descaling of internal parts is required, chemical reagents can be used.

The reagent is pumped into the booster. The pump hoses are connected to the radiator, and flushing starts. Upon completion, all parts are washed clean water. Users recommend using regular household products- they are much cheaper than specialized ones. The main thing is that they are thick.

You can use home remedies. Prepare a solution of citric acid in a ratio of 200 grams per 5 liters and pour it into the heat exchanger. Place the knot in a metal basin of water and place it on the stove to heat for half an hour. Then rinse in the shower.

Plates and parts should not be subjected to strong mechanical stress, otherwise they will deteriorate or become deformed.

Hydrodynamic cleaning consists of pumping pressure. So, the flow is under high pressure is driven through the system, removing dirt and deposits.

The electric discharge procedure requires special Streamer equipment, so it is carried out in service center or workshop. At home, contamination can only be eliminated mechanically or chemically.

Igniter

How do you know when it's time to clean the system? Watch the flame. If everything is ok, it's smooth blue color. If the flame is yellow and burns unevenly, it means that the burner and igniter are clogged with dust and soot.

To remove contaminants, do this:

Shut off the fuel supply;
Remove the igniter;
Clean the element with a brush;
Reinstall the part.

Burner

The degree of contamination can be determined by the signs indicated above.

After shutting off the gas, remove the burner and nozzles;
Clean the injectors with a small brush;
The burner is cleaned with a brush, inner part purged with a pump;
Reassemble the parts and install them back.

Filters

Water filter meshes are removed and washed with running water. Rusty plaque deleted citric acid- just soak the part in the solution. Don't forget to clean gas filters.

Firebox, chimney

The accumulation of soot narrows the shaft passage, which leads to poor traction. In this case, the boiler cannot be operated - it is life-threatening. You can remove the soot from your side, and contact the utility company for cleaning from the street. Make sure that top part the chimney was not covered with ice. To avoid this, it is better to insulate the pipe.

The firebox is cleaned with brushes. Carefully monitor the amount of soot. Under unfavorable conditions it may catch fire.