Indoor pomegranate. Pumpkin-apple juice with pulp

Dwarf indoor pomegranate

The common dwarf pomegranate is indoor flower, which belongs to the group of subtropical plants of the pomegranate family. The pomegranate arrived in Europe from western Asia and the Balkan Peninsula.

The variety of common dwarf pomegranate is best suited for growing at home.

You need to sow the seeds in a light, nutritious substrate. Choose dishes for sowing that are not deep. Root system Pomegranate has a superficial plant, so it grows well in small containers. The dishes should have a hole; it is important to ensure good drainage.

Squeeze the pomegranate seeds from the juice and immediately plant them in the soil. Sprinkle a small (about 1 cm) layer of earth on top. To create a microclimate for our plant, we need to cover the top of the pot with film or a piece of glass. Once a day, the greenhouse needs to be opened to allow the soil to breathe. Germination pomegranate seeds almost 100%, and if you did everything correctly, then after 2-3 weeks you will see white pomegranate sprouts. As soon as this happens, the film should be removed from the pot and the pot should be placed closer to the light. Pomegranate is a light-loving plant, but direct light will be destructive for a plant that has not yet matured. When 2-3 leaves appear, we plant them. And then care, as for an adult pomegranate.

The plant can have a height of no more than 1 meter, it has small leaves of bright green color. Blooms in the third year. During the flowering period, large, bright red flowers of extraordinary beauty appear, which is why pomegranate has become a favorite among home flowers.

If you care for the flower correctly, then after flowering it can bear fruit.

This is a polyecious plant: you can see three types of flowers on it - male, female and bisexual. Pomegranates (that's what the fruits are called), even if they are tied, room conditions ripen for a very long time.

Pomegranate needs a brightly lit place; in summer it is better to take it out open air. If conditions permit, dig it in the garden.

For overwintering, the flower is transported to a bright, cool room in which the temperature is maintained from 2 to 7 degrees Celsius. Winter Garden – perfect place for overwintering pomegranate. For the winter, the indoor flower sheds its foliage.

Care consists of very moderate watering and fertilizing. Even in summer, the flower is watered moderately, in winter rarely (once every 2 months). In the spring and during the growth period, fertilizing is carried out periodically with complex mineral fertilizer (every two weeks).

Reproduction
When propagated by cuttings, flowering and fruiting in dwarf indoor pomegranates may occur as early as the second year after planting. . If you decide to propagate pomegranate by cuttings, then this must be done in the spring, using root formation stimulants and bottom heating.

Cuttings 10–15 cm long are cut, their bases are dusted with “Kornevin”, then they are planted obliquely in a mixture of peat and sand (or simply in washed coarse river sand), leaving 1–3 buds on the surface, and cover with a jar. In a month or a month and a half they will take root, and in another month they can be planted.

If watered incorrectly (too much), spots may appear on pomegranate leaves. Common Pests – spider mites and scale insects.

It does not require frequent replanting: only young plants are replanted annually, and adults - once every three years or less (as needed). It is carried out in the spring, when the buds swell.
The garnet is formed very well. Pinch the top when the young pomegranate grows to 10-15 cm if you want to grow the plant as a tree. If you want to get a bush, pinch the pomegranate when it is about 5 cm high. Next, as it grows, you need to do the shaping.

Dwarf pomegranate grows very quickly. By the first autumn after planting, it may even bloom. True, the first buds should be plucked out. This way the plant will gain strength, and by next year it will grow more actively, and the flowering will be especially lush.

In nature, pomegranate grows on dry rocky slopes and salt marshes. It is logical that when home care he is unpretentious - tolerates low humidity air, does not require particularly fertile soil, but it must be light and breathable. Soil consistency: turf soil, leaf humus, peat and sand in a ratio of 2:1:0.5:0.5. Sand is definitely included in the consistency. Good small stones are important. The root system of lemongrass is superficial, so it grows well in small containers. It also does not require frequent replanting: only young plants are replanted once a year, and adults - every three years and less often (if necessary). It is carried out in the spring, when the buds swell. If possible, in the summer, move the pomegranate to the freshest air in the garden or on the balcony, finding a place where the leaves will be protected from the scorching rays of the midday sun. Water it as the soil dries out, thoroughly soaking the lump. Feed once every two weeks with watery all-encompassing fertilizers and spray from time to time. In August, watering and fertilizing are reduced. In September, the plant is returned to the house. By December, after the fruits have ripened, the pomegranate begins to shed its leaves, preparing for a dormant period that usually lasts two to three months. From what light and temperature conditions he will survive this time, the flowering and beauty of the leaves depend on next year. Best temperature during this period, 10-12 °C, which cannot be ensured in a modern city apartment. An adult pomegranate can be helped to go “on vacation” by drying out the earth ball a little and removing the remaining leaves, and then placing it on a cold window. Watering during the dormant period is small. It is not necessary to winterize a small plant. And even at a temperature of 12-16 °C with good lighting, the pomegranate will survive the winter well, stopping in growth and shedding a small part of the foliage. Overwintering at higher temperatures without illumination, the pomegranate stretches greatly, losing its decorative effect. In February, when the buds begin to bloom, the pomegranate is placed in a warm sunny place and watered more often. Soon it will be covered with thick, fresh foliage. Before saturated growth, it is necessary to cut out all dry and weak shoots - buds form at the ends of strong one-year shoots. Over time, the pomegranate grows into a beautiful fluffy plant. It can be shaped - grown in the form of a tree or bush. In the second case, the plant is rejuvenated, replacing one of the trunks with a strong young shoot as it ages. During spring pruning, which stimulates branching, young shoots are trimmed, leaving two to five pairs of leaves. Pruning is done on the bud looking outwards. If you make it over a bud that grows inward, a shoot will form from it, which will thicken the bush. What remains from pruning can be used for cuttings. Pomegranate is a wonderful plant for those who want to test themselves in the art of bonsai. With some skill, it can be used to form bonsai in virtually any style. By repeatedly cutting and pinching, bending young shoots with wire, and bending older shoots to the ground, the pomegranate is given the desired shape. The result will not be expected.

Spring is the time for nature to awaken. During this period, plant buds begin to swell, from which bud buds and leaves then appear, or both together, depending on the type of buds.

First on garden plot currants, gooseberries and honeysuckle begin their growing season. If for some reason you did not have time to prune these crops in March, then do it in early April - before the buds open. Trim the shoots of newly planted 1-2 year old currant and gooseberry seedlings, leaving only 2-4 buds on each.

The central shoot can be 2-3 buds longer, so that a pyramidal crown is then formed. For three-year-old bushes, leave 3-4 of the strongest basal shoots. Subsequently, create a bush with branches of different ages, annually leave 3-4 of the strongest basal shoots to form new skeletal branches of the bush, and remove the rest to the base. For better branching of basal shoots, shorten them: for varieties that branch poorly, by one third; for varieties that branch well, cut off only the immature tops with underdeveloped buds.

With the passage of time and the aging of the bushes, in addition to excess basal shoots, annually remove old branches lying on the ground, growing inside the bush and intertwining, dry, broken, damaged by pests and diseases. A formed fruit-bearing currant and gooseberry bush should have 3-4 branches each of different ages(from 1 year to 5 years), i.e. 15-20 branches of different ages.

Pruning fruit-bearing bushes of white and red currants is somewhat different from black currants. The tops of their branches are cut off, since this is where the main crop is formed. Their skeletal branches are more durable, so cut out old branches to the base of the bush only after they reach seven years of age.

Following currants and gooseberries, prune honeysuckle; it also begins its growing season early. Young 3-4 year old honeysuckle plants do not require pruning, but in fruit-bearing bushes, thin out the crown, which tends to become very thick. With age, cut out aging branches and clean up small overgrown branches that, due to shading in the crown, grow poorly and do not bear fruit. For older bushes, cut the oldest skeletal branches back to the base or cut them to a side branch. Start pruning cherries and plums last, when traces of freezing after overwintering are clearly visible.

In the second half of April, prune raspberries. If old shoots were not cut out in the fall, cut them down to the ground, leaving no stumps. Be sure to remove shoots with thickenings (galls) containing stem gall midge larvae. Cut off the dry tops of the shoots; they are either frozen or there is a larva in them raspberry fly. After pruning trees and shrubs, be sure to burn all branches and use the ash for fertilizer. As soon as the soil thaws and dries, use a fan rake to clear the strawberries of dry leaves, and also clear the entire area of ​​last year's leaves, debris and burn them.

TO planting work start as soon as the soil allows. Carefully inspect the seedlings that were buried, especially their roots. Trim broken, dried, rotten roots to a healthy place. Place the dried roots in water for a day. When preparing the soil, dress it required quantity fertilizers, ensure proper planting. If the seedlings fruit trees When planting in autumn, the root collar was buried in the soil, then be sure to correct this mistake, otherwise the plants will lag in growth, slow down and bear little fruit. If there are close to each other on your site groundwater, plant fruit seedlings into mounds up to 0.4-0.5 m high with an initial width of at least 1.3-1.5 m. As the roots grow, the mounds will increase.

In order to propagate the crops you need during the sap flow period, graft with cuttings, prepare and plant shoots of your own plum and cherry trees. These crops can also be propagated by root cuttings. As soon as the soil thaws, expose the horizontal roots 0.5-1.5 cm thick in mother-rooted plants, cut root cuttings 15-20 cm long and plant them on previously prepared beds or in a greenhouse with a film cover. Plant the cuttings in the grooves vertically or obliquely, deepening the upper end of the cutting by 1-2 cm. Water the soil generously and mulch, monitor its moisture until the cuttings germinate, otherwise they will dry out.

Propagate currants, gooseberries, and sea buckthorn in April using woody cuttings prepared in late autumn or in early spring. Plant them obliquely at an angle of 45 degrees in moist, fertile soil, leaving two to three buds on the surface. For better retention of moisture in the soil, plant the cuttings in ridges covered with plastic film, make holes in it into which to plant the cuttings. Such planting will help speed up the rooting of cuttings and increase their survival rate. Spring planting Plant raspberries as early as possible, since their root buds sprout very early.

As soon as the soil is ready, begin planting strawberries that were planted in the fall for growing in special seedling beds. To speed up the ripening of future strawberries, immediately after the snow melts and remove dry and diseased leaves, feed the plants and cover some of the fruiting plantings with film frames. At the end of the month, when the soil dries out, dig it in tree trunk circles fruit trees and berry fields, after applying fertilizers. Mineral fertilizers add under digging, and leave organic (humus or peat) on the surface as mulch.

In April, before the buds open, spend preventive measures pest and disease control. Treat the plants and soil in tree trunk circles to destroy pests that have overwintered in them. Use the preparations phytoverm and phytosporin, ammonium nitrate or urea (500-700 g per 10 liters of water). Replacing drugs makes it possible to more successfully suppress the number of various pathogens or pests. If you did not treat the garden with the above-mentioned preparations in time, then during the swelling phase of the flower buds, spray with Bordeaux mixture.

Galina Alexandrova, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences

In nature, pomegranate grows on dry rocky slopes and salt marshes. It is not surprising that even when kept at home, it is unpretentious - it tolerates low air humidity, does not require particularly fertile soil, but it must be light and breathable.

Composition of the soil mixture: turf soil, leaf humus, peat and sand in a ratio of 4:2:1:1. Sand must be included in the mixture. Good drainage is important. The pomegranate has a superficial root system, so it grows well in small containers. It does not require frequent replanting: only young plants are replanted annually, and adults - once every three years or less (as needed). It is carried out in the spring, when the buds swell.

Caring for pomegranate in summer

If possible, in the summer, move the pomegranate to Fresh air into the garden or onto the balcony, finding a place where the leaves will be protected from the scorching rays of the midday sun. Water it as the soil dries out, thoroughly soaking the lump. Feed with liquid once every two weeks complex fertilizers, sometimes sprayed. In August, watering and fertilizing are reduced. In September, the plant is returned to the house.

Wintering pomegranate

By December, after the fruits ripen, the pomegranate begins to shed its leaves, preparing for a dormant period that usually lasts 2-3 months. The flowering and beauty of the leaves next year depend on the light and temperature conditions under which it survives this time. Optimal temperature during this period, 10–12°C, which cannot be ensured in a modern city apartment.

An adult pomegranate can be helped to go “on vacation” by slightly drying the earthen ball and removing the remaining leaves, and then placing it on a cool window. Watering during the dormant period is minimal. For a small plant Wintering is not necessary. But also at a temperature of 12–16°C at good lighting The pomegranate will survive the winter well, stopping in growth and shedding a small part of its foliage. Wintering at more high temperature Without lighting, the pomegranate becomes very stretched, losing its decorative effect.

In February, as soon as the buds begin to bloom, the pomegranate is placed in a warm sunny place and watered more often. Soon it will be covered with thick, fresh foliage. Before intensive growth begins, you need to cut out all dry and weak shoots - buds form at the ends of strong annual shoots.

Pomegranate trimming

The pomegranate eventually grows into a beautiful fluffy plant. It can be shaped - grown in the form of a tree or bush. In the second case, the plant is rejuvenated, replacing one of the trunks with a strong young shoot as it ages. When pruning in spring, which stimulates branching, young shoots are trimmed, leaving 2-5 pairs of leaves. Pruning is done on the bud looking outwards. If you make it over a bud growing inward, a shoot will form from it, which will thicken the bush. What remains from pruning can be used for cuttings.

Pomegranate - amazing plant for those who want to try themselves in the art of bonsai. With some skills, it can be used to form bonsai in almost any style. By repeatedly cutting and pinching, bending young shoots with wire, and bending older ones to the ground, the pomegranate is given the desired shape. The result will not be long in coming.

In December, pomegranate begins a dormant period that lasts two to three months. The flowering and beauty of the leaves next year depend on the light and temperature conditions under which it survives.

Conditions and care
In nature, pomegranate grows on dry rocky slopes and salt marshes. It is not surprising that even when kept at home, it is unpretentious - it tolerates low air humidity, does not require particularly fertile soil, but it must be light and breathable.
Composition of the soil mixture: turf soil, leaf humus, peat and sand in a ratio of 4:2:1:1. Sand must be included in the mixture. Good drainage is important. The pomegranate has a superficial root system, so it grows well in small containers. It does not require frequent replanting: only young plants are replanted annually, and adults - once every three years or less (as needed). It is carried out in the spring, when the buds swell.

Caring for pomegranate in summer
If possible, in the summer, move the pomegranate to fresh air in the garden or on the balcony, finding a place where the leaves will be protected from the scorching rays of the midday sun. Water it as the soil dries out, thoroughly soaking the lump. Once every two weeks they are fed with liquid complex fertilizers, sometimes sprayed. In August, watering and fertilizing are reduced. In September, the plant is returned to the house.

Wintering pomegranate
By December, after the fruits ripen, the pomegranate begins to shed its leaves, preparing for a dormant period that usually lasts 2-3 months. The flowering and beauty of the leaves next year depend on the light and temperature conditions under which it survives this time. The optimal temperature during this period is 10–12°C, which cannot be ensured in a modern city apartment.
An adult pomegranate can be helped to go “on vacation” by slightly drying the earthen ball and removing the remaining leaves, and then placing it on a cool window. Watering during the dormant period is minimal. It is not necessary for a small plant to overwinter. But even at a temperature of 12–16°C with good lighting, the pomegranate will survive the winter well, stopping in growth and shedding a small part of the foliage. Overwintering at higher temperatures without lighting, the pomegranate becomes very stretched, losing its decorative effect.
In February, as soon as the buds begin to bloom, the pomegranate is placed in a warm sunny place and watered more often. Soon it will be covered with thick, fresh foliage. Before intensive growth begins, you need to cut out all dry and weak shoots - buds form at the ends of strong annual shoots.

Pomegranate trimming
The pomegranate eventually grows into a beautiful fluffy plant. It can be shaped - grown in the form of a tree or bush. In the second case, the plant is rejuvenated, replacing one of the trunks with a strong young shoot as it ages. When pruning in spring, which stimulates branching, young shoots are trimmed, leaving 2-5 pairs of leaves. Pruning is done on the bud looking outwards. If you make it over a bud growing inward, a shoot will form from it, which will thicken the bush. What remains from pruning can be used for cuttings.
Pomegranate is an amazing plant for those who want to try their hand at the art of bonsai. With some skills, it can be used to form bonsai in almost any style. By repeatedly cutting and pinching, bending young shoots with wire, and bending older ones to the ground, the pomegranate is given the desired shape. The result will not be long in coming.