Measuring the length of a metal curtain rod requires great accuracy, so a tape measure with a metal tape is used in the process of taking measurements.

When calculating required size the rods take into account the position of the cornice relative to the window, the method of fastening, the presence of finials at the ends of the pipe and the width of the curtain in the open state. The instructions and diagrams in this article will help you make the right measurement.

Determine the total length of the cornice, depending on the method of fastening

There are three main ways of attaching forged cornices: wall, ceiling and end.

We take into account decorative tips in overall length finished product

Each fleuron differs not only in design features, but also in a certain value of elongation of the cornice. This value must be taken into account in the calculations, because the size of the pipe and the amount of “parking” of the open curtains allotted by you depend on it.

In our catalog we give elongation values, however, they may vary from batch to batch. Therefore, when buying tips, you should measure the actual value directly in the store in order to be sure to fit into the intended dimensions.

Be sure to leave space around the edges so that the cornice does not rest against the wall with its tip. If this stock is not available, perhaps instead of an ornate product, either a fleuron with zero elongation should be used.

How many brackets to take?

The longer the cornice, the more weight it tends to carry; and this weight must be distributed evenly along the entire length with the help of additional points of support.

Cornices up to 2 m long are equipped with two brackets, over 2 m - add 1 more bracket. Maximum length rod in our range is 3 m, to get a longer cornice, the pipes are connected. The pipe connection must be supported by a bracket.

A little tip…

In curtain design, much is determined by artistic intent, and not just functional requirements. So, if the window is very tall and elongated, it can be deliberately divided by setting the cornice ¼ below the top edge and using a wall mount.

If it is difficult to think of how to decorate the walls on the sides of an ordinary window, then they are draped with beautiful curtains or decorative panels, increasing the side extensions of the eaves by the desired amount, or generally resort to end fastening. For any of your ideas you will find everything necessary accessories in our catalog at large assortment- create together with Antik!

The efficiency of its operation depends on where and how the heating battery is installed. If you do not follow the installation rules, then heat losses can reach from 5 to 20%, which will affect the microclimate in the room. To avoid this, you should know the main sources of heat loss and how to properly install a bimetallic heating radiator.

Basic requirements for room insulation

Few people think why most often heating radiators are installed under windows, and more more people would be surprised to know that a deviation of 2-3 centimeters can affect their efficiency. Sometimes heat losses are 20% only due to the fact that the heater installation parameters were not observed.

Bimetal radiators are by far not only the most expensive in the thermal technology market, but also the most durable, reliable and durable. Therefore, it will be doubly insulting, having invested a lot of money for their purchase and connection, to get as a result cold room which consumes a lot of energy to heat.

Since, in terms of their parameters, bimetallic batteries are ideal for a “not ideal” city heating network, they should be used positive traits to the maximum.

Before installation bimetallic radiators heating, heat losses should be minimized:

• Through uninsulated walls up to 50% heat is lost.
• Windows "eat" 20%.
• An unheated basement or attic adds 10% of heat loss.

If you do not carry out preliminary work on the insulation of the room, then even the highest quality radiators will not be able to withstand such losses, or the cost of heating it will be too high.

Not all consumers know that the elementary installation of a foil screen behind the battery will reduce heat loss by 30%. If it is not possible to fully insulate the outer walls, it is enough to make such a reflector to reduce damage.

After conducting a complete "revision" of heat losses and eliminating at least some of them, you can begin to calculate how many sections will be required for the room, and where bimetallic radiators will be installed.

Choosing a place for a radiator

When the battery is mounted under a window, the laws of physics about air circulation are taken into account. They claim that cold air sinks to the floor, as it is heavier than warm. So and air flow from the window it initially goes down, since it is cold, but when it warms up, it also rises. How more window, topics large quantity cold air comes from it, which means that efforts and an increase in energy consumption will be required to heat it.

If the heater is mounted under the window, then the cold stream simply does not have time to spread around the room, as it meets the hot air emanating from it. At the same time, it is important that some rules are observed, which are especially important when installing bimetallic heating radiators with your own hands:

• If there are several windows in the room, then the batteries will have to be mounted under each of them. This will reduce heat loss and create proper air circulation.
• It is known that 2 radiators with a small number of sections have a greater heat transfer than one with numerous elements.
• The distance from the wall to the back of the radiator must be at least 3 cm.
• The fastening of bimetallic radiators to the wall under the window must maintain a distance of at least 10 cm from it to the floor and the window sill.
• There should be enough space on the sides of the radiator for easy access to it.

People would be surprised if they knew that deviations up or down affect the quality of the radiator and the amount of heat it produces.

When installing brackets for the battery under the windowsill, you should use a plumb line to ensure that the structure is horizontal. This will protect the system from the formation of air jams in the future.

Battery mounting

Do-it-yourself installation of a bimetallic radiator is not an easy task, as it requires not only attention and tools, but also elementary knowledge of the sequence of actions.

• If you intend to connect to the current system heating new batteries in place of the old ones, then you should first flush the pipes and clean them of rust, scale and debris.
• At the end of the supply pipe, you must either clean the existing thread, and if it is worn out, then cut a new one and screw bronze or brass tees onto it.
• It is necessary to screw ball valves into the straight part of the tee, and connect the rest with a pipe segment to each other so that a bypass is obtained.
• Adapters of the appropriate size are installed in the inlet and outlet holes of the battery.
• Prepare and install brackets on the wall, which should be included in the mounting kit for the radiator.
• Hang the heating battery on the mounts.
• Install a Mayevsky valve in one of the side holes to bleed air from the system in the future.
• If the type of connection allows, then install a thermostat to control the heating of the coolant.
• After the battery is connected to the pipes of the system, a test should be carried out. To do this, it is necessary to create increased pressure in it. This will allow you to see possible defects in operation and make sure that there is no leakage, and the integrity of the entire structure is not violated.

As can be seen from the above, there is nothing complicated in this work if you do everything sequentially.

Battery wall mount

Before fixing the bimetallic radiator to the wall, you should carefully check the correctness and reliability of mounting the brackets. This affects the efficiency of the entire system.

When installing fasteners, the weight of the assembled heating battery should be taken into account. Bimetallic radiators are the second heaviest after cast iron ones due to steel or copper collectors built into them.

The correct placement of the radiator is considered when the brackets are hung so that they provide:

• The distance from it to the wall is at least 5 cm.
• The radiator weighs with a slight tilt forward, which will protect it from the formation of air bubbles.
• The battery plugs must be flush with the heating pipes.

The number of brackets directly depends on the size of the radiator. So for a six-section design, you will need one fastener at the bottom and two at the top, while for 10 sections you will need 2 on each side.

A properly fixed bracket must support the weight of the radiator and not sag under its weight. To do this, all fasteners are checked manually. If they move at least a millimeter, then it is better to remove the dowels and carry out the installation again.

Only after the fasteners have been checked can radiators be hung on them and connected to the heating system.

As can be seen from the foregoing, there is nothing complicated in installing bimetallic radiators on your own. The main thing is not to rush anywhere and stick to the sequence of actions.

IN radiator system Heating devices are traditionally installed under window sills. In exceptional cases, the project may provide for a different arrangement of radiators. For fixing heating appliances in selected places, special brackets for heating radiators are used, produced by manufacturers in a large assortment. Fasteners suitable for aluminum or bimetal appliances are not suitable for cast iron batteries having significant weight and solid dimensions.

Different kinds wall and floor fasteners for heating appliances

Criteria for selecting fasteners

The choice of fasteners is made taking into account the main technical characteristics of the installed heating system, as well as the characteristics of the room in which the installation work is performed. An important role is played next row factors:

• battery material;
• dimensions heating appliances;
• construction material, which was used to build walls;
• the size of window openings, their number in the room and location features;
• room interior design.

Having objectively assessed all of the above factors, you can choose the right fasteners, as well as calculate their number.

Wall Mounting of Radiators

This method is the most widely used in the practice of installation heating systems. For direct fastening heating appliances To bearing wall premises for sale there are corner and anchor fasteners.

Important! When choosing a bracket, adhere to next rule: the heavier the radiator, the greater should be the thickness of the fastener. In addition, the materials for the manufacture of fasteners and batteries must match each other.

Fasteners for cast iron batteries

For massive cast iron radiators, which differ from other heating devices in their large weight, use several types of fasteners:

• cast iron holders;
• steel adjustable fasteners that allow you to adjust the distance between the battery and the wall while aligning the device in height and strictly horizontal position;
• steel pin brackets;
• holders on a steel strip, etc.

For strong fastening of cast-iron batteries to concrete and brick walls Fits all standard fasteners. Wall mounting of these heaters on wooden or plasterboard walls must be accompanied by reinforced floor anchoring. In this case, they additionally purchase a floor bracket for the radiator, which is designed to take on the bulk of the load.

Fasteners for aluminum and bimetallic devices

Quite different will need brackets for bimetallic heating radiators and their aluminum counterparts. These heaters are much lighter than their cast-iron counterparts, so they are suitable for mounting:

• steel corner fasteners (simple or reinforced model);
• steel round or molded pin bracket with dowel, the length of which varies between 120-170 mm;
• universal wall fasteners with a plastic overlay, etc.

Important! Manufacturers of heaters, as a rule, supply special fasteners in the kit, which are ideal for a particular radiator model.

Round pin brackets with dowels for aluminum radiators heating

Floor mounting method

This mounting option is used much less frequently than wall mounting. This method of installation is chosen either for the sake of reliability and safety (in the case of "fragile" walls), or at the request of designers. Floor fasteners are presented in the form:

• fixed brackets, sometimes they are equipped with a plastic lining;
• adjustable devices, also sometimes bundled with a plastic trim;
• combined fasteners for the floor;
• special floor brackets, the width of which is 80 or 100 mm.

Important! For some heating batteries, manufacturers offer small legs.

With two floor brackets, the radiator is firmly attached to the base

How is the number of fasteners calculated?

You can find out how many brackets you need for a radiator from technical documentation regulating the construction and installation work. When installing cast iron batteries, they are guided by the rule that: for a device that includes more than two, but less than nine sections, you will need three wall brackets. Two fasteners support the heater from above, and one from below. For aluminum and bimetallic radiators, universal kits are sold, including three pin saber brackets that come with the same number of dowels.

Mounting the pin molded bracket to a predetermined location

When installing batteries on floor stands the latter are calculated as follows:

• two floor holders for the battery with the number of sections not exceeding 10;
• three holders for devices, the number of sections in which exceeds 10.

Important! For heaters supplied by manufacturers complete with fasteners, the number of the latter is determined by the manufacturer in accordance with applicable standards.

Choose a bracket for a heating battery and independently install it under the power of each person. Those who are used to trusting the work to professionals will not have to take care of the installation of fasteners, since the entire installation of the heating system will be taken over by a team of specialists.

Video: how to fix heating radiators

Holders are the basic parts of the external drain, which ensure the fixation of its catchment area. With the help of these hook-shaped brackets, the gutters are installed, the configuration of the horizontal water intake circuit is formed. Masters who want to competently assemble and install a gutter system with their own hands should familiarize themselves with the specifics of these elements.

For an impeccable result of work, you need to know how to correctly select holders for gutters, where and how they should be fixed. In this article, we will just understand all these nuances.

Holders for the installation of drainage systems are available in a wide range, which makes it possible to equip the roof with water inlets of any structure and configuration.

They are produced for the installation of plastic and metal gutters, with a rounded or rectangular section, with and without a protective and decorative coating.

In the manufacture of holders, a polymer compound or a steel alloy is used. Color plastic products usually exactly matches the color of the gutter, if the owners of the house did not have a craving for contrasts in the exterior picture. Metal hooks for gutters are available in galvanized versions with or without a polymeric protective and decorative coating.

There are no special structural differences for brackets produced for traditional types of roofs. These include three main varieties:

• Long. They are elements in the form of hooks with a long mounting plate. Installed before laying the coating. Attached to rafter legs solid crate or its sparse counterpart, reinforced along the fixation line with a cornice board.
• Short. Hook parts with mounting base aligned with their back side. They are installed mainly after laying the coating, but can be mounted before the indicated stage. They are attached to the frontal board, nailed to the ends of the rafter legs. In rare cases, just to the ends of the rafters.
• Universal. They are a collapsible design of a short holder and a removable mounting plate. Can be used as long or short brackets depending on the stage of work.

When carrying out installation before the stage of laying the roof, universal brackets are used in a complete set with a mounting plate, installed in accordance with the rules for mounting long holders. If fixation is made after laying the coating, they are attached like ordinary short hooks.

Except traditional types presented on the market short brackets with a device for adjusting the slope of the mounting base and holders for roofs made of polymeric polycarbonate. The first variety is designed to be fixed on the upper crown log cabin or on an inclined wind board. An example of such a base is the inwardly beveled frontal skin of the roof of a veranda or terrace.

The second non-traditional type is gutter hooks for polycarbonate roofs. They are produced with a mounting device in the form of a kind of "clothespin" - staples. When arranging roofs with cellular polycarbonate one part of the bracket is inserted between the outer and inside gently plastic sheet. They are attached in two planes: to the frontal board and to the edge of the coating.

The same variety is used in the arrangement of roof structures with a single-layer plastic slate. Such a bracket solves three important tasks at once: it provides reliable fastening to rafter system, reinforcing the edge of the roof and leveling in two dimensions. Moreover, the position can be adjusted after fixing the bracket.

Proper selection of the holder will eliminate unnecessary costs and actions during the installation period. For example, the purchase of long hooks is impractical when carrying out repair work no roof replacement. If they have already been purchased, then the row of tiles or slate lying on the cornice will have to be removed, and after installation is completed, laid back. Profiled roofing steel will also require much more effort.

Things are much easier with short hooks, the installation of which can be carried out at any stage of repair or construction. However, it is not without reason that their long counterparts are recognized as the most reliable type of brackets that provide gutters with impeccable fixation for many years.

Installing Gutter Brackets

Let's analyze the technology of fastening the most popular brackets on concrete examples. To begin with, let's list general rules location of hooks of drainage systems:

• A group of holders for one slope should form the slope of the gutter towards the catchment funnel with the riser attached to it. The slope value is specified by the manufacturer drainage system, usually it is from 2 to 5 mm per 1 running meter of the gutter.
• Brackets are installed with equal spacing. Under steel and aluminum gutters through 600 - 900 mm. For copper gutters, the distance between the hooks varies in the range of 300 - 500 mm, for plastic systems step no more than 600 mm.
• The end hooks of the linear gutter are installed 10 - 15 cm from the edge of the frontal board.
• Holders of closed drain circuits are mounted on both sides of the corner element.
• Additional holders are mounted 5 - 10 cm from the water intake funnel. When using expansion funnels and connecting elements plastic gutters installed next to them without fail.

Based on the above rules, the design of the location of the brackets and the calculation of the quantity required for installation is carried out.

In addition to the listed features, it is necessary to observe the specifics of the location of the hooks in the section, or in profile, so to speak. The gutter installed in the holders must be covered by the overhang of the eaves by at least a third, maximum by half of its own diameter.

Depending on the type of coating and the steepness of the structure, the size of this overhang ranges from 3 to 7 cm. The steeper the slopes, the more eaves overhang, extending beyond the cornice board.

The gutters should be below the line that conditionally continues the overhang by about 2 cm. So it is necessary that the snow mass sliding along the roof does not press on the horizontal part of the drain and does not tear them off together with the holders. Note that if, for some technical reason, the indicated location of the hooks is not possible, a snow retention system must be installed on the eaves in front of the drain.

Rules for mounting long holders

To install brackets with long mounting bars, you must determine the installation pitch, which should not exceed the limit recommended by the system manufacturer. Fastening them is often irrational: extra costs without a special need to strengthen the position of the gutter.

Having decided on the step, you should calculate the number of fasteners and mark the crate for the installation of hooks. If they are fixed to the heels of the rafter legs, installed at a suitable distance from each other, then nothing needs to be marked.

After marking, the fitting of the bracket, which is installed at the highest point, is carried out for the upcoming bending of its mounting plate. The element must be attached to the installation site and the fold point corresponding to technological requirements. If necessary, the position of the hook must be adjusted to the maximum deviations specified by the system manufacturer.

Search and definition empirically The first bend point gives us the opportunity to mark and bend the holders for the entire slope:

• We lay the number of brackets required for arranging the ramp in a row so that their conditional bottom and the upper points of the slats are on the same line.
• We calculate the angle of inclination required for the free flow of precipitation into the intake riser. Let's assume that the length of the slope is 10 m, and the recommended slope is 3 mm / linear meter. This means that the bend point of the hook located on the opposite edge should be 3 cm lower.
• We draw a fold line on the hooks laid in a row and number them.
• We bend the holders alternately with a strip bender. We act carefully so as not to damage the protective coating when bending.

Having completed the bending of the brackets, we proceed to install them. We fasten with galvanized self-tapping screws with a regular cap. Fixation is made at three points on the mounting plate. There are no significant differences in the process of fastening hooks of any length, except for those that they are performed at various stages of construction or repair.

The installation of the holders begins with the installation of the extreme hooks, between which a cord or fishing line is pulled, indicating the line of the conditional bottom of the gutter. The ordinary elements located between them are installed according to the numbering carried out before bending. In case of detection of deviations from the direction given by the fishing line, the fold is corrected.

How to install short hooks

Short holders are mainly used if Maintenance roofs without replacement roofing or if, during the construction of the roof, the installation of the drainage system was simply forgotten.

In addition, this perfect option for laying, due to the specifics of which the installation of long brackets can only be carried out on rafters under the crate.

True, the owners of buildings with a bituminous tile roof, for example, have a way to use long holders with their installation on the crate. To do this, elongated grooves are selected under the mounting strips from above in the crate before installation. Note that the option is possible if the recesses are not able to affect bearing capacity battens in the cornice area.

Designing the location and calculating the required number of short holders is carried out according to the rules common to all gutters. The installation process is different in that there is no stage pre-training hooks for installation.

Briefly, the installation algorithm looks like this:

• Calculation of the number of brackets, based on the material used in the manufacture of the gutter.
• Marking the frontal board according to the step recommended by the manufacturer.
• Gutter slope calculation. For example, the length of the gutter is 10 m, the slope recommended by the manufacturer is 2.5 mm. This means that the hook located on the side of the water intake funnel must be installed below the one located on the opposite side of the slope by exactly 2.5 cm.
• Fastening of extreme brackets to the frontal board.
• Connecting fixed holders with fishing line or string to mark the line of the bottom of the gutter. The lace can be stretched in two or three rows to mark several key lines to increase the accuracy of the installation.
• Installation of ordinary holders in accordance with the markings on the frontal board and with the "indications" of the laces.

IN mounted holders the gutter is laid in a slightly bent state. First, its far side is inserted into the peculiar grooves of the hooks, then the near side snaps into place.

Mounting holders on plastic slate

To install drainage systems on roofs with plastic slate, a special type of holders is produced, which we have already discussed. This type of fastener is more complicated than the previous types in terms of design and technology. However, element manufacturers have tried to make the installation process and possible repairs as easy as possible afterwards.

The procedure for installing holders on plastic slate is as follows:

• We mount plastic spacers that repeat the shape of a convex wave of corrugated material. They are needed to fasten the sheet to the extreme lath and to ensure the rigidity of the roof along the eaves. If there is no crate, put them on the rafters.
• We carry out the marking of the frontal board for the installation of hooks.
• We install the extreme holders without tightening the fasteners.
• We adjust the position of the brackets relative to the vertical.
• We shift lower part a holder installed at the lowest point of the drain branch relative to the upper part so that the conditional “bottom” of the hook is lower than a similar element on the opposite side exactly by the amount of the slope.
• We fix both brackets to the frontal board and to the roof.
• We stretch one or two rows of laces, connecting the extreme hooks. These are reference lines for mounting row holders.
• We install ordinary brackets according to the markings and the line indicated by the lace.

At the end, we fix the gutter in the holders and, having installed the building level on it, we check again geometric parameters installation. The slope towards the water collection point must be observed without fail, otherwise water will stagnate in the gutter. If significant deviations are found, the height of the lower part of the hook can be corrected.

A video demonstrating the installation of long holders with your own hands:

An interesting device for bending the legs of long hooks:

Fixing short plastic gutter holders:

We have analyzed the options and methods for installing the most popular types of holders. They gave the basic requirements for their installation and fastening, which must be followed when arranging a drain for all types of roofs. Compliance technological rules- a guarantee of success in work and long service installed on durable holders of the drainage system.

How to choose a wall bracket for your TV?

Take advantage of our handy bracket selection modules:

• by brand/model of your TV

. click on the link "Select bracket for TV model"
. in the pop-up window, specify the brand of your TV, then its model
. if you wish, you can choose Extra options bracket:

Distance from wall

The module will automatically select everything for you possible options. When choosing a bracket, pay attention to the fact that it must fit the diagonal of your TV and support its weight.

• according to the VESA standard of your TV

How to use it correctly?
. go to the section "for LCD and LED"
. click on the link "Choose a bracket for VESA"
. in the pop-up window, specify VESA parameters your TV. You can find it in the instructions or measure it yourself. To do this, look at the back of the TV: it has 4 threaded holes arranged in a rectangle or square. Measure the distance between them, the resulting numbers are the VESA standard! For example, you got 400 mm in width and 200 mm in height - this means that the VESA standard of your TV is 400x200.
. You can select additional bracket options if you wish.

Bracket function set: swivel, tilt or fixed

Bracket Color: Black or White

Distance from wall

If you were unable to select suitable model, feel free to call us on the free line 8 800 250 50 51. We answer all your questions from Monday to Friday from 8:30 to 17:30 (MSK)

What is VESA?

VESA is the distance between the bracket mounting holes on the back of the TV, arranged in a rectangle or square. You can measure these distances yourself with a tape measure or ruler. For example, you got 400 mm in width and 200 mm in height - this means that the VESA standard of your TV is 400x200.

With what functionality to choose a TV bracket?

When choosing a bracket, it is important to consider that the mount models differ from each other in terms of functions. And depending on the layout of the room and the location of the TV, you should choose a bracket with one or another set of functions.

What's happened minimum distance from the wall and why should it be taken into account?

The minimum distance from the wall is the distance between the wall and the TV mounted on the bracket. When choosing a bracket, pay attention to this parameter. It is recommended to measure the length of the plugs and choose a bracket with a slightly greater distance from the wall to avoid bending the wires.

Why is it impossible to hang a TV on a bracket more than the maximum allowed diagonal, if the weight and VESA parameters of the TV allow it?

If you hang a TV with a diagonal larger than recommended on the bracket, then limit the ability to rotate and tilt the bracket to the angle that is stated in its technical specifications. It will also be inconvenient for you to hang the TV on the bracket and connect the wires to it.