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DIY house roofs. How to install a roof yourself. Calculation of the rafter system taking into account the current loads

Before we talk about how to build the roof of a house with your own hands, let’s dwell a little on existing types roofs

Scheme of a gable roof design for a house

All roofs of private buildings are divided into two large groups: and pitched. The latter, in turn, are divided into single-, double- and four-slope, as well as broken and multi-gable. Let's look at each one separately.

Flat roof

Its undeniable advantages include the following:

  • It can be built quite simply and quickly;
  • Reliability and strength of the structure;
  • Long service life;
  • Original appearance (although many ordinary people try to argue with this statement made by experts);
  • Possibility of additional functional load on the roof (arrangement of an observation deck, a place for relaxation and sunbathing, a summer mini-garden, etc.).

However, despite all the advantages of flat roofs, there are also several significant disadvantages. Firstly, precipitation in the form of snow accumulates on such roofs, which requires regular cleaning.

Existing roof options for a private house

And, secondly, moisture from precipitation accumulated on the roof often finds cracks in the roof and forms leaks, so the covering of such roofs must be without flaws.

Shed roofs

This is the simplest option for arranging the roof of a private house. Although this type of roof is used extremely rarely for residential buildings, it is more often in demand for covering outbuildings.

A pitched roof has such advantages as simplicity of design, as well as cost-effectiveness during construction. But the appearance of the roof is not particularly attractive, and also the fact that the slope here is directed in one direction, which is required by the construction reliable system drainage, makes such roofs not in demand for residential buildings.


Design and installation of a pitched roof for a cottage

In addition, on such roofs it is almost impossible to do attic space.

Gable roofs

Very often used to cover private houses. It is especially relevant for small country houses. This is due to its advantages, which include the following:


Among the disadvantages of such roofs, one can highlight the need to install a ridge, as well as two drainage lines. Moreover, if you compare gable roofs with single-pitched ones, their weight will be greater, which requires adjustment. In addition, making such a roof with your own hands is much more difficult than a pitched roof.

Hip roofs

It is not found as often as the gable one, although it has a more attractive appearance. This is due to the fact that such a roof structure is very complex in execution and its weight is very large.
But such roofs make it possible to create a more spacious and bright attic space inside, which will always be warm due to the fact that it will be heated on four sides.


Rafter system of a hipped roof

broken roofs

Broken roofs are the most popular type of roofing in private construction. This is due to the fact that, if built correctly, such a roof is practically free of disadvantages. But it has a lot of advantages:

  • Possibility of expanding the living space of the room due to the attic, equipped with a sloping roof;
  • Reduced level of heat loss through the roof;
  • Gives originality to the appearance of the house;
  • Under the arch of such a roof you can...

Read also

Roof repair of a multi-storey building

There are also disadvantages that can be easily eliminated with proper roofing. These “disadvantages” include:


Multi-gable roofs

Houses with a multi-gable roof are original in their design and are suitable for private houses of any architectural form. But besides this, they also have the following advantages:

  • Reliability and durability, which is ensured by a special rafter structure;
  • Under the arch of such a roof it is possible to equip a spacious comfortable attic, which will significantly increase the living space in the house;
  • Atmospheric precipitation does not accumulate on the roof, but flows down from it complex system gutters due to the steep angle of the roof slopes.

However, such a roof also has disadvantages, which boil down to the complexity of construction. rafter system under a gable roof, an increased amount of building material, as well as the complexity of arranging drainage systems.


Ready project two-story house with multi-gable roof

You are unlikely to be able to build this type of roof on your own, and therefore in our article we will not dwell on it, as, in fact, on the rarely in demand - hipped roof.
Let us consider in detail the technology for constructing roofs such as single-pitched and gable roofs, since they are the most popular in private construction.

DIY pitched roof

Before you start building a pitched roof, you need to decide on several points.

Features of installation of pitched roofs

First, you need to understand where the only slope of the roof will be directed. Experts recommend that the non-windy side be considered a guideline for the direction of the roof slope. Secondly, you need to decide on the angle of the roof. Here it is worth adhering to the following pattern: the more precipitation falls in your area, the steeper the pitched roof needs to be made.


Installation of joists for a pitched roof frame

But you shouldn’t overdo it, because by increasing the angle of the roof, you increase the windage of the structure. Thirdly, depending on the chosen angle of inclination of the roof, it is necessary to decide on the type roofing material. Yes, for different angles roof slope, a variety of roofing materials are recommended:

Having decided on all the above parameters, you can begin building a pitched roof.

Materials and tools needed for construction

Construction of a pitched roof will require you to purchase the following building materials. First, you need to stock up on wooden beams for the rafter system, boards and nails for installing the structure.


Secondly, do not forget to purchase a wood preservative that protects it from insects, moisture, mold and mildew. Third, purchase required amount rolls of steam, hydro and thermal insulation, roofing material, as well as fasteners in order to install the roof.
As for tools, here you do not need any specialized tool, it is enough to have a hammer, a hacksaw, an ax, a stapler, measuring tape, as well as the building level. In addition, you will need a knife, a pencil and a brush for working with wood.

Stages of construction of a pitched roof

The construction of a pitched roof comes down to several stages.

Stage 1 - Attaching the Mauerlat

Mauerlat is a timber that is the most bottom roof structures. It is mounted on the wall of the house and serves as a support for the rafters.


An example of fastening the Mauerlat of a pitched roof

It can be made from 10 x 15 cm timber, which is attached to the wall with one of following methods: using wire, using construction pins or anchors. The sequence of installation of the Mauerlat is as follows. First of all, to ensure the durability of the roof, the Mauerlat must be waterproofed from the wall of the house using a sheet of roofing material or polyethylene, which is laid between them.

Further steps will vary depending on the fastening method you choose. If you decide to use anchors or studs, then you need to make holes in the wall and in the Mauerlat, matching each other in step.

To facilitate this process, use a board with marks for the holes. Alternatively, the studs can be fixed into the wall during laying last row brick (block).
You need to insert bolts into the holes in the wall, and then simply place the Mauerlat on them.


Name of structural elements of a pitched roof

All that remains is to tighten it using nuts and washers for fastening the Mauerlat.
If the Mauerlat is planned to be mounted using wire, prudently installed in the top row of the wall masonry, then the process is significantly simplified. Then in the Mauerlat at a distance of at least 25 mm from the edge it is necessary to drill through hole, parallel to the edge of the beam. The ends of the wire are passed through it and tightened tightly.

Stage 2 - Installation of the rafter system

The pitched roof has a fairly simple rafter system in design.


Rafter system of a pitched roof

As rafters, either a beam of a smaller cross-section (up to 50 mm) or a board (5 x 15 cm) is used. It is necessary to take into account the nuance that the rafters must protrude beyond the wall level by at least 30 cm. This is necessary in order to protect the walls of a private house from rain and other precipitation.
To ensure a tight fit of the rafter legs to the mauerlat, it is necessary to make cutouts in the rafters for the base beam. The pitch for placing the rafters is selected based on the width of the insulation roll. The rafters are secured with nails (10 cm).

Stage 3 - Installation of sheathing

Now you need to fill the sheathing boards across the rafters. As a rule, small cross-section beams (up to 5 cm) are used for it. The sheathing pitch depends on. For example, when using rolled roofing materials, it is recommended to make the sheathing continuous. Installation of the sheathing is also carried out using nails (10 cm).

Stage 4 - Creating a roofing pie

At this stage, the main thing is to correctly follow the sequence of laying hydro, steam and heat-insulating materials. So, a waterproofing layer is laid on the sheathing, and steam and heat insulators are mounted with inside roof (thermal insulation is adjacent to the sheathing, which is covered with waterproofing material on top). It turns out that the thermal insulation is closed between layers of vapor and water insulators.

Scheme of waterproofing and insulation of a pitched roof

The sequence of work performed is recommended as follows. First of all, insulation is laid, which is most often used mineral wool. The insulation is laid between the rafters. Sometimes it is advisable to use a two-layer insulation layer, creating a heat-insulating layer about 10 cm thick. This will make the degree of heat and sound insulation of the attic space greater. At the second stage, the vapor barrier film is installed.

Place it from the side interior space and, pulling, fasten with construction staples to the rafters using a stapler.

Such a layer will prevent steam from penetrating the thermal insulation layer, while keeping it always dry. This will help extend the life of the insulation and will not change it thermal insulation characteristics. Further, all roofing work will be carried out with outside private house.

Installation of corrugated sheeting on a pitched roof

Let's start laying the waterproofing membrane. The peculiarities of its structure are such that it will not allow moisture from the outside to get onto the insulation layer, but at the same time, vapors from the heat-insulating layer will escape outside. The waterproofing is attached in the same way as a vapor barrier film. Finally, a pitched roof requires installation finishing coating and drainage.

Many owners country houses prefer to do some construction works on one's own. This way you can save a significant amount of money. It is better to entrust the construction of the foundation and walls to professionals, but you can do the installation of the roof yourself. But first you need to decide what type of roof is best to build for your home. After all, they exist different types, shapes and configurations. Do-it-yourself roof construction should be done step by step in accordance with all requirements and recommendations. In this case, it will reliably protect the interior space from cold, moisture, rain and wind.

In this article

Type of roofs

Some people believe that there are two types of roofs: pitched and flat. This statement is true, but experts distinguish between 5 types of roofs. Let's take a brief look at their features and advantages.

  • Single-pitch. In this case, the roof is supported on the walls of the house. This design is rarely used for the construction of residential buildings. They are often used in areas exposed to strong gusts of wind. In our area, such a design can be seen on utility buildings, garages, and sheds. It does not require the construction of a rafter system and an attic. This type of construction is budget-friendly, because the consumption of roofing material and lumber is minimal.
  • Gable roof visually consists of two rectangles connected at the top by edges. They form two fronts - two triangles. In this case, triangles can acquire irregular shape, and the length of the slopes increases. Such a house often has a large attic space, which allows you to store many unnecessary things. Many owners convert this room into a living space. Building a roof is easy. You need to know some installation features.
  • Hip (Danish). Visually it consists of triangles and trapezoidal planes. Triangles are often located at the top of the fronts. A prerequisite is the presence attic room. This part must be insulated using penoplex. Building a Danish roof with your own hands is much more difficult than installing a gable roof.
  • Four-slope. This type is also common in our country. It looks like four triangles (often different sizes), which are connected by vertices at one point.
  • A gable or multi-pitched roof is the most labor-intensive type to install. It consists of many complex structural elements and connections. The construction of a roof of this type requires careful arrangement of the rafter system and roofing.

Slope

A lot depends on the slope of the roof. You need to take his choice seriously. If the area where you live experiences frequent precipitation, it is better to give preference to a roof with a slope of 45 degrees. If there are frequent winds, then the roof should be flat.

The slope also depends on the chosen roofing material. Some materials (slate, tiles) must be laid on rafters with an inclination angle of more than 22 degrees. Otherwise, water will enter and be retained at the joints.

Experts say that pitched roofs should have an angle of inclination from 20 to 30 degrees, and gable ones - from 25 to 45.

The angle of inclination also affects the cost of the structure. The greater the angle of inclination, the more expensive it will cost to build such a roof. After all, it will take more roofing material and penoplex.

All these features must be indicated in the building design. It is not recommended to compile it yourself; it is better to contact specialists.

Roof construction

The type of roof and the angle of inclination have been determined; now you need to choose a high-quality and reliable roofing material, taking into account which you can determine the parameters of the rafter system. The weight of the material puts pressure and load on the rafters, so the issue of high-quality fastening of the material to the base should be resolved.

To facilitate calculations of the construction of the rafter system and the quantity required material, it is better to first prepare a design drawing of the roof. All fastening points should be indicated here. You can compose it yourself, but it is better to turn to specialists.

The heaviest weight (and therefore the load) comes from roofing material such as ceramic tiles. All components of the building (foundation, walls, rafter system) must take into account the weight of the roofing material.

The construction of the rafter system is made of coniferous wood. The moisture content of the timber should be about 22%. The presence of various knots and blue stains on the wood is not allowed.

To build a house roof you need to prepare:

Remember when using quality materials, you guarantee long-term operation of the roof. In addition, after installation is completed, such a roof will not require repairs for many years.

Rafter system

The rafter system consists of rafters, sheathing, struts and mauerlat.

There are such rafter systems:

  • Layered;
  • Hanging.

The triangle is the main figure in the roof. The ends of the layered rafters rest on load-bearing walls buildings, and in the middle - to the intermediate supports. And the support for hanging rafters is only the mauerlat or walls.

The mauerlat is the top crown of a frame in wooden houses or a special beam in brick buildings. The rafters are connected to each other into a purlin located at the top of the rafter system. At the last stage of installation, the roof ridge is installed on it.

Design roofing pie- these are hydro, vapor barrier materials, a layer of penoplex, lathing and roofing material. Sometimes it consists of more layers. It depends on the climatic conditions the area in which the building is being constructed.

Installation

The mauerlat is laid on the load-bearing walls. Fastening occurs with anchors. They first spread it under it waterproofing layer- roofing felt or roofing felt. Afterwards the rafters are laid.

The rafter system is ready; it is necessary to install the sheathing. It can be either continuous or in steps. The choice directly depends on the roofing material. For example, for soft tiles logical application continuous sheathing from plywood.

If, for example, metal tiles are used as a roofing material, then the sheathing should have a certain pitch - 40-50 cm. When constructing the sheathing, you need to ensure that it has a slight overhang, which forms a cornice.

Does your project involve an attic as a living space? In this case, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier material under the roofing material. Many types of this material are used in construction. Isospan or Yutafan are often used. If the slope is broken, you must carefully lay all the layers. Remember that the insulating material must be overlapped at the joints.

Afterwards, a thermal insulation layer is laid, which will help retain heat in the house in the future. Many developers today build only warm roofs using penoplex. Mineral wool, isover or ursu are often used. When embossed insulation, it is necessary to use a material that is resistant to frost and moisture. Of course he shouldn't highlight bad smell and harmful substances.

Remember, there must be a space of at least 50 mm between the sheathing and the insulation. Thus, condensation will not damage the surface of the penoplex. To construct the space, use a counter-lattice installed from bars along the rafters.

Roofing material

Now you can begin installing the roofing material. Often this process starts from the bottom up. The material is collected on the roof, like a construction set. If there are no special fasteners, then the sheets are laid out on the rafters, leveled and secured with special nails or self-tapping screws, which are often included. They must have rubber seals. The color of such nails should match the shade of the roofing.

Particular attention should be paid to the valley if the house under construction has complex roof. These places are often exposed to moisture, which accumulates and negatively affects the roofing pie.

Upon completion of the roof installation, they proceed to installing overhangs and snow guards. Without them, the roof will have an unattractive appearance, and operation will be problematic. Their installation is simple, but requires care and precision.

Ventilation

In the under-roof space it is necessary to build ventilation system. It affects the life of the roof in the future, protects it from dampness and circulates air. It can be built using various methods: natural draft, special devices.

By following all stages of roof installation, you will avoid the possibility of making mistakes during roof construction. Remember, nothing can be missed here. Every element is important! And under no circumstances should you skimp on it. Remember that labor protection and safety are something you should worry about in advance. After completing the work, your work will be appreciated. After all, you built your house with your own strength, and quality roof will last a long time.

And your continued comfortable stay in the room depends on how correctly the technology is followed. So, let's build a roof.

Selection of roofs: roof types

The choice of type of construction is influenced by factors such as the location of the house and climatic conditions. If the climate you live in is windy, then best choice there will be a flat roof option. If it often rains in your area of ​​residence, then you need to think about construction. Naturally, construction technologies various coatings will be different.

Based on the type of construction, a distinction is made between combined and attic roofing. - this is with insulation laid on top of it. To build such a project, it is necessary to provide. An attic roof is a frame covered with durable material. This type of building can be a gable or single-pitch structure. Also, structures can be built in the form of a tent or attic.

The choice has been made - we begin construction!

Any construction begins with a project. The design of the future roof is a crucial moment. You need to calculate the correct slope. It should not exceed 20°, minimum slope should be 3-4°. You should consider how the frame and supports will be constructed, what kind of structure will be laid waterproofing material. When designing, it is necessary to take into account the issues of design and coating design.

Roof construction: materials

Types of roofing materials: tiles, ondulin, metal tiles, bitumen roofing, wooden, slate roofing.

Depending on what type of roofing you choose for your home, you need to choose the material. Pay attention to its quality, and then to the price. You should not save on building a protective structure for your home, as repairs may cost several times more in the future. A reliable roof means reliable protection for your home.

For flat roof Roofing materials made of tar or bitumen are suitable. They need to be covered with cladding on top. Sheet materials should not be used as a waterproofing material. roof covering, since folds will form in it, preventing the flow of water.

Pitched structures

Materials for the construction of pitched structures must have high load-bearing capacity. To do this, you can use corrugated sheets, metal tiles and various roll bases. Today on modern construction market the choice is very extensive.

The thermal insulation material must be optimal thickness and width. It is recommended to use insulation: rolled glass wool or mineral wool. Moreover, mineral wool slabs have proven themselves to be the best. They do not slip, do not deform and do not compact. The density of the slab is 75-125 kg/m3.

The load-bearing elements of the future coating can be metal, wood, reinforced concrete or stone.

Technology for constructing house roofs

As a rule, when building a private house, construction technology is used pitched design. Work on the construction of the roof should begin immediately after the walls of the house are erected.

General diagram of the roof structure.

On concrete slab, after placing a layer of roofing material on its top, you need to lay the Mauerlat (a thick beam made of wooden beam in cross section 15x15 cm). Lay the Mauerlat along the axis of the wall parallel to the ridge. The function of the Mauerlat is to distribute the load from the rafters, from the total weight of the structure, from snow and wind. The Mauerlat should be laid no closer than 5 cm from outer wall. The beams must be securely fastened to the wall of the house, otherwise the roof may be blown away by the wind. The Mauerlat can be secured with studs to concrete or using wire rod - thick wire laid in the wall in advance. The Mauerlats must be connected to each other using the carpenter's fastening method - by cutting one into the other by 50 cm in width. For reliability, you can secure it with bolts or nails.

Assembly of the rafter system is the next stage of construction. The rafters are fixed to the mauerlat on both gables. Then they make support below and at the eaves. You should also install rafters on the top of the structure. The rafters are connected to each other using the carpenter's cutting method and fastened with nails. should be 7x15 cm. Install the bars at a distance of 60 cm to 1 meter from each other.

Construction technology has many options. You can strengthen the beam to the transverse ridge. But this method is only suitable for light roofs. The most durable way is to attach it to the Mauerlat. With this mounting option, you need to make sure that the rafters are placed with the cutout directly on the Mauerlat, otherwise they will slide off. For correct installation you need to drive two nails on both sides of the rafters crosswise. The nails will keep the timber from moving.

We strengthen the rafters on the “ridge”

  1. Butt joint - cut the upper edge of the rafters at an angle so that it is equal to the angle of the roof slope, and rest it against the corresponding rafter on the opposite side.
  2. On the ridge beam. To do this, you need to lay a ridge beam between the rafters cut at an angle. Next, attach end-to-end as described above.
  3. In “overlap” - the rafters touch not with their ends, but with their side planes. The bars are fastened together with nails or bolts.

Purlins are installed to support the rafters. The purlins are laid parallel to the ridge and the mauerlat. Need to set vertical supports on the mauerlat and then lay a beam on them - a purlin on which the rafters will rest. These racks must be fastened very securely, because they will bear the main vertical load.

Screed and waterproofing

Next comes the stage of installing horizontal ties. Their main function is to protect the structure from “folding” inward. Boards are used for this. Moreover, the thickness of the boards for screeds should correspond to the thickness of the rafters. When laying screeds, they must be positioned so that they “expand” the purlins. The beams are secured with nails or bolts. Using nails, you need to fasten those boards that will create the overhang of the cornice (“fillies”).

The next stage is applying a waterproofing film. You need to roll out the film over the rafters from one edge of the surface to the other, starting from the bottom of the structure. Having cut the required length from the roll, we continue to move higher in the same way until we cover the entire surface. The film is attached with a construction stapler. If you plan to build, you need to lay insulation under the film - glass wool or mineral wool. The insulation must be laid between the rafter beams.

Lathing and control lathing

The control sheathing process involves applying slats over a waterproofing film. The slats are attached to the rafters with nails. The function of the grille is to provide ventilation between the hydrofilm and the main sheathing. When working, you should follow safety precautions, since if you are careless, you can fall between the rafters.

The lathing can be made in two ways: solid and sparse. For continuous sheathing, building materials OSB, FSF or boards are used. This lathing option is well suited for soft roof: metal tiles, light slate. For more heavy material: clay, - you need to make a sparse crate. The dimensions of the bars for sparse sheathing should be 50x50 cm or 60x60 cm. Also, 30-40 mm boards are suitable for sparse sheathing. Building materials are nailed to the rafters from top to bottom.

Roof treatment

The last and final stage of construction will be the front finishing. The finishing technology depends on the choice of building material. You should always start installation work from the end of the roof. You must first calculate the material consumption, taking into account all the cornices and overlaps.

The roof of a house, erected according to all the rules, will serve reliable protection long years. The stages must be followed and performed efficiently.

The fundamental structures of the house will be subject to destructive effects external factors without durable reliable roof. In order to save money, homeowners often do all the roofing work themselves. It should be borne in mind that this stage of construction is as important as laying the foundation or erecting walls. Moreover, before starting work, you should determine what type of flooring is suitable for the house under construction?

Difficulties in choosing a roof structure: food for thought

Usually on initial stage design attracts attention to several types of “roofing”, differing in the complexity of the work, quantity and type of material. The roof of a house built with your own hands should not retain precipitation on the surface, withstand gusts of wind, and please with its appearance.

If we briefly characterize the variety of designs available for independent execution, we get the following highlights:

  • The method of constructing a frame with one gentle slope is the most economical and easiest to implement.
  • A roof with two slopes is traditionally most in demand among owners of houses and cottages; it is enough to correctly position and strengthen two simple slopes. The work is completed quickly and easily.
  • The hipped design looks elegant and can vary from half-hip to half-hip. It is more complex, but also provides maximum opportunities for creating a unique exterior of the building.
  • The hip version is a frame that is flat on 4 sides, two opposite surfaces of which form regular triangles, and the other two are trapezoids.
  • The half-hip variety is a kind of constructive symbiosis, combining the features of a gable and hip design, characterized by broken roof lines and complex design. Strict proportions of four triangular slopes under one peak and harmonious execution are distinguished by a roofing “tent” in the form of a pyramid.
  • Looks original attic structure with characteristic breaks in the middle of the slopes or bevels on the vertical sides. As a rule, compatriots want to receive additional square meters living space, using the attic for these purposes.

Attention! Before you make the roof of the house, you should take into account that the increased load on the ceiling and the increase in the area of ​​the house is directly proportional to the increase in additional fasteners. Big number slopes leads to an increase in labor costs for its construction. A novice builder should not take on the construction of complex structures, because... this requires serious calculations and a complex rafter design.

Dependence of roof performance characteristics on roof type

Future view decorative covering influences the choice of cross-section of wooden elements. For example, when covering with ceramic tiles, the strongest frame should be made, because piece material has much more weight than even slate or metal sheet. Complexity truss structure, its area, and type of coating affect the consumption of materials. In turn, the slope is carried out based on the area of ​​the roof and the type of roofing material: metal, ceramic, ; slate; soft roll materials, metal sheets, etc.

Multi-layer roofing “garment”

Having decided on the choice of roof shape, a drawing is made, which indicates the main elements: rafter system, supports, joint connections, thermal insulation, roofing.

In the simplest case ( flat version roof) the layering of the pie is as follows:

  • ceiling;
  • vapor barrier layer;
  • insulation;
  • reinforcing screed;
  • waterproofing layer.

At pitched roof The main element is the rafter frame, which holds the entire load and consists of:

  • Mauerlat;
  • rafters;
  • lathing;
  • crossbars;
  • puffs.
  • waterproofing;
  • insulation;
  • vapor barrier coating;
  • counter-lattice;
  • roof.

To hold the weight, they use material from coniferous trees with a certain moisture content (20%), without defects in the form of knots. For the work you will still need fasteners (staples, screws, nails, screws), necessary tool, equipment.

The order must not be disturbed: technology for constructing a pitched roof

Stage # 1 Formation of a reinforced base for the rafters

Along the upper crown of the masonry walls of the house, a layer of reinforced concrete is formed, increasing load-bearing capacity structures and leveling them horizontally. There is no need to reinforce walls if they are made of logs or timber. In the liquid filled solution of the belt, studs are attached - fasteners to the base of the reinforcing screed for the Mauerlat, timber with a section of 150x150. In this case, the ends of the studs should protrude 30 mm from the support beam - the frame for the rafter frame. The larger the cross-section of the supporting structure, the more powerful the rafter design and the weight of the roof. Before laying the Mauerlat, the reinforced edging must be waterproofed, for example, with roofing felt. At the same time, in order to reduce the risk of rotting, it must be maintained minimum distance the support beam is at least 10 cm from the wall. The support beam is fixed to the protruding studs using nuts with a non-corrosive coating. The Mauerlat beams are laid strictly parallel to the ridge.

Attention! All stages of roof construction work are carried out with constant monitoring of horizontal compliance. A building level is used for this.

Stage # 2 Selection of wooden elements

The installation stage of compass-like structures is preceded by a preliminary wooden blank (150x50), possibly timber, small fragments of boards different sizes and sections that will be used as crossbars, spacers, ties, struts, strengthening the rafter legs and enhancing the strength of the entire structure.

The frame, which carries the main load, consists of rafters connected to the mauerlat. If the hip option is chosen, then shortened “legs” are also needed that support the diagonal rafter laying on both sides (springs) standing on the mauerlat. They should have a cross-section of 5x15cm and fasten the rafter supports.

Stage #3 Installation of the rafter frame

  • In any case, when decorating the frame with rafters, one end is placed in a special recess against the mauerlat, and the other rests against the ridge or rests on the opposite supporting element. In the lower part, the rafters are additionally nailed to the mauerlat with nails with a working rod length of 20 cm. Between themselves wooden supports are also fixed with bolts. To do this, sockets of the required diameter are drilled into the tree.

Important! Before building a roof with two slopes, pine or larch wood is pre-treated with fire-resistant antiseptic compounds. The first two triangular frames are assembled near the house, on the ground, in finished form they rise to the mauerlat, where they are immediately temporarily secured with spacers and joined to the ridge structure. Only after this the remaining rafters are installed.

  • The “legs” are located at a certain distance from each other, based on the load. Samaya is nothing more than triangles lined up in a row, the tops of which are attached to a longitudinal beam.
  • The pitch between the frame elements must be such as to support the weight of the sheathing, finishing coating, the load from steam and waterproofing, and insulation.
  • The angle of inclination is an important detail during construction. It is selected specifically for each region. In cold conditions with a lot of precipitation, the best option is 40-45°. In regions characterized by windy weather, a slope of 20° should be maintained. Hot, dry areas allow the use of a minimum angle of 3°.

Stage # 4 Lathing installation

The filling of the sheathing is carried out after the installation of all rafters has been completed. It maintains the necessary gap between the heat insulator and the waterproof coating, which removes the formed condensate. A waterproofing material is placed on it, preventing moisture from penetrating into the room and allowing vapor emissions from the warm room to pass into the insulation.

The sheathing is mounted on the rafters to hold the roof in place. Useful for this big size complete boards (about 2 m) 25 cm thick. Based on the type of coating, they are filled with solid boards (for tiles, roll covering) or lattice sheathing (slate, metal sheet), attached perpendicular to the rafters. Joints between boards that do not exceed a gap of 5 mm must be fixed on supports.

Stage # 5 Heat, steam, waterproofing

  • You can insulate the roof using mineral wool, carefully placing it in the space between the rafters. “dampen” noise.
  • The mineral wool is stretched over the top vapor barrier membrane (reinforced film), preventing the insulation from getting wet. It should cover the frame with some margin, designed to accommodate changes in parameters in the event of thermal expansion. Be sure to ensure tight contact of the film with external walls and pipes. If it is necessary to glue the canvases together, this must be done carefully, obtaining a complete connection.
  • Ventilation ducts also help maintain a special microclimate. To do this, small gaps should be left in the sheathing: 2 or even 3 channels on each side.

Stage # 6 Installation of roofing

The final stage is to correctly lay it directly on the sheathing. roofing elements so that they can withstand loads and create an airtight coating. Laying direction is “right to left” and “bottom to top”. The easiest (and cheaper) way, which does not affect reliability at all, is to use slate. It is also unpretentious in installation. This is the option that is suitable when arranging a roof with your own hands for the first time. Don't forget about drainage system. It must be used along the entire perimeter of the roof, and effectively remove precipitation in the required direction and required quantity.

Arranging the roof does not take a critically long time, provided that the preparatory stage is carefully completed and the technology for performing the work is followed. There is no need to rush and buy cheap materials. You should also carefully study the theoretical material and watch a video on how to properly build a roof. At a sufficient level, master the “basics” of working with metalworking and woodworking tools.

How to build the roof of a house with your own hands? Answer to this question will be discussed in this article. You will learn how the frame is installed, how to cover the roof, and what coating options exist.

To construct the roof frame, it is advisable to use larch or pine wood. It is believed that these are the most durable materials.

Boards and beams must be free of defects: cracks and chips, with a moisture content of no more than 15%. It is advisable to pre-treat the material with antifungal and fire-resistant substances. Particular attention should be paid to the processing of cornice elements, since the parts there are practically not protected.


There are several roof options:

  • Single-pitched - used to cover utility rooms, outbuildings and baths.
  • Gable - consists of two slopes converging at one point. The most common option found on private homes.
  • Four-slope hip - consists of four slopes, two of which are triangular in shape, and the other two are trapezoidal.
  • Half-hip – hybrid hipped roof in the lower part, and gable in the upper part.
  • Tent - four identical slopes, in the form of isosceles triangles.
  • Multi-gable pitched – is a combination of a gable and hip roof.

Despite the variety of options, if you grasp the essence of roof construction itself simple type, you can raise almost any option yourself.

In general, the roof of a house is built with your own hands in several stages.

The base on which the main part of the load of the structure rests is called the Mauerlat. Simply put, this is the foundation on which the roof will be built. Beams with a cross-section of 15×15 cm should be used. They should be installed parallel to the roof ridge.

In order for the roof of the house to successfully resist winds and weather disasters, it is necessary to securely fasten the Mauerlat beams. It is advisable to take care of this at the stage of laying the walls. To do this, it is necessary, starting from the top 4th row of masonry, to lay thick wire between the bricks (blocks). They call it wire rod, it should be at a distance of a meter from each other.

The wire is fixed in the middle in brickwork, and the freely hanging ends should be left of such length that they can subsequently be tied to the timber. If it is assumed that the house will not be plastered, then outer edge the wires should be mounted in the solution, so it will not be noticeable.

Please note that the minimum deviation of the Mauerlat from the edge of the wall is 10 cm. To protect the beams from rotting, several layers of roofing felt are placed under them.

Frame installation

When a roof is being built, it is absolutely certain that it cannot be done without a strong frame.

The rafters attached to the mauerlat are the frame. Remember that if the beams exceed 4.5m, you will need additional installation runs.

Optimal for construction brick house, beams with a cross section of 7×15 cm are considered.

The rafters are attached to the mauerlat with a special cutout, which is fixed with 20 cm nails. The nails should be driven in as follows:

  • one is nailed diagonally through the rafter into the mauerlat;
  • another one is hammered in the same way, but on the other side;
  • the third is from above, perpendicular.

Thanks to this technology, the rafter does not move to the sides.

The upper ends of the beams overlap each other. The end of one beam must overlap the end of a parallel beam. They can also be fastened with either nails or a bolt.

How to make a roof more durable?


For structural strength and so that the expansion force has less impact on the Mauerlat, the rafter legs should be fastened together with beams with a cross-section of 5×15 cm. This structural element is called a crossbar. Thus, the length of the crossbar corresponds to the distance between the rafter beams that need to be connected. Fastening is done with nails.

Construction of the roof also involves attaching a filly to each of the rafter legs. Essentially, this is a board with a cross-section of 50×100 cm, which must be secured with screws and metal brackets on one side of the rafter leg. Its length should be calculated as follows: overhang length + 50 cm.

In order to build the roof of the house with your own hands without unnecessary difficulties, it is recommended to make blanks for the filly in advance. To do this, on a board 15 cm wide, you need to make a cutout with which it will be attached to the Mauerlat. You need to make sure that all the boards and rafters fit together exactly. Typically, this work is carried out before the construction of the rafters begins, so that later the entire structure can be simply assembled.

At the stage of installing the frame, the question also often arises: how to build a roof at the right angle?

This moment should not be missed. The slope of the roof is selected taking into account the standards for the area. So, for cold regions with big amount precipitation, a slope of 40-45° is considered optimal. Thus, snow will not be able to accumulate, which will avoid pressure on the floors. In this case, it is advisable to install the rafter legs at a distance of 1 m from each other.

In dry, hot areas, the smallest inclination angle may be 3°. In areas with strong winds, it is preferable to build a roof with a slope of 20°.

If we discuss in more detail: how to make a roof with correct slope, then you need to refer to the rules that professional builders apply.

So. The roof angle can be measured using special tool, which is called an “inclinometer”. But before starting measurements, it is necessary to calculate the required angle. Builders use a special formula. Thus, the slope angle will be equal to the height of the ridge divided by the value obtained by dividing the length of the roof by two.

Lathing

In order to cover the roof, it is necessary to make a sheathing. For tiles, the sheathing is made continuous.

You will need boards about 25 cm thick, with maximum integrity, without chips or cracks. The length of each is about 2 m, that is, equal to two spans between the rafter legs.

Thus, the joints can only be on supports, and the distance between them should not exceed 5 mm. The boards from which the ridge is formed should be located as close to each other as possible. Fastening is done with 20 cm nails.

For each roofing material, its own version of the sheathing is selected. For soft, rolled roofs, the sheathing must be continuous. For slate, metal roofing– a discharged sheathing will do.

If necessary, you can make double flooring. In this case, the first layer is laid as standard - parallel to the ridge. The second layer, accordingly, is perpendicular, that is, along the descent.

Ventilation

In order to cover the roof, only sheathing is not enough. It is necessary to take care of its integrity during operation.

To ventilate the tiles, gaps should be left in the sheathing. On each side two or three ventilation duct. The beginning of the channels should be at the bottom of the overhang, and the end should be as high as possible. Width - about 5 cm. At the top, to remove air, install an outlet for the hood.

Installation of droppers and lining layer

To ensure that the roof covering does not suffer from condensation, it is necessary to lay a lining layer on the sheathing. As a rule, it is installed only at the edges where water can seep in, that is, on the internal valleys, to the ridge, near the pipes.

The lining layer should be about 40 cm wide. The entire carpet is nailed down with nails or screws, at a distance of 25-30 cm. If it is necessary to lay a second layer, then it is placed on top of the first nailed one. The overlap can be glued with bitumen glue.

The next step before covering the roof is installing drip lines. This metal plates, serving as protection against moisture getting on the cornice. The planks should be nailed at a distance of 10 cm, with an overlap of 5 cm. The drip edges should be secured to the ridge in the same way.

Mounted on plates flexible tiles, which contributes not only to the improvement of the functions of the drip, but also to its improvement appearance. The plates are self-adhesive. Must be removed first protective layer, and then glue it to the cornice. For reliability, you can nail it.

Installation of tiles

As you know, there are several roofing options. Building a house roof with your own hands involves independent choice tiles by the developer. But each option has its own installation conditions and principles. Let's look at the main ones.

Bituminous flexible tiles


To make it easy to cover the roof, you should start laying it from the middle of the eaves so that it can be evenly distributed. The shingles should be removed protective film and glue to the base. Next, nail along the edges. It is advisable to use galvanized nails with wide heads. The lip should cover the joints of the shingles.

If the architectural design involves the presence of pipes, then special passage elements should be attached along the perimeter of the shingle cutout.

In place of the ridge, the tiles are glued with an overlap.

If the pipe is brick and heats up, then it would be correct to place a triangular block on the corner of the roof and pipe. Underlay carpet is laid at a distance of 20 cm from the pipe onto which a special connector is placed. The cracks are sealed with sealant.

Metal tiles

A discharged sheathing is laid under the metal tiles.

The total amount of material required is calculated by adding the length of the slope from the eaves to the ridge, the overhang of the eaves and the vertical overlap of the sheets.

The first sheet is laid and aligned along the cornice and end. The second one is placed on top. The third one is on the side. Above the second is the fourth sheet. The entire structure is leveled and fastened with self-tapping screws to the sheathing. According to this scheme, the entire roof is assembled.

Ridge strips and external corners mounted with an overlap of 10 cm and secured with self-tapping screws. The ends of the ridge should be closed with plugs.

We also recommend installing snow guards. They are mounted parallel to the eaves, using self-tapping screws, directly on the roof covering. There are several options: plank, mesh, tubular. In regions with a lot of snow, it is advisable to install tubular snow retainers.

Ceramic tiles

Roofing metal tiles you need to start from the bottom, moving up, and from left to right. The tiles should be laid out in advance into small stacks of five pieces, which will be placed on the slopes. Thus, the load on the rafters will be distributed evenly. All shingles must be attached to the rafters with galvanized screws. Each sheet has special holes, that is, holes with which the sheets are attached to each other.

Cornice filing

When answering the question of how to build a roof for a house, you cannot miss the moment of lining the roof.

Filing is carried out at the last stage. It is necessary that the walls are already insulated, since the filing box is closely adjacent to them. Otherwise, you will have to either break the filing or leave a section of the wall uninsulated.

It is advisable to make the lining from wood, this way it is possible to avoid additional ventilation. The filing itself is a kind of box that is attached to the filly and the continuation of the rafters. The frame of the box consists of two boards. One goes from the edge of the overhang to the wall, and the second goes down from the rafters. It turns out that the boards are connected at right angles. The joints are secured with screws or self-tapping screws; metal plates can also be used. Small gaps must be left between the boards. The corners of the box are cut at an angle and secured with metal brackets and self-tapping screws.

Next, the bottom of the frame, along its entire length, is covered with boards. Since they are susceptible to weather conditions, they should be secured firmly, especially around the edges. Also keep in mind that the joints of rows of adjacent beams should not coincide. The corners are filed at 45°.

Internal roof insulation


How to build a roof correctly without taking care of insulation? This is quite an important process.

There are several options: on top of the sheathing and from the inside.

If the attic space is not intended to be used as a living area, then insulation can be done from the inside. In addition, in this way you can hide the space between the rafter legs.

First of all, it is necessary to cover the roof of the house with a waterproofing film around the entire perimeter. Since the rafters protrude over the sheathing, it will not be possible to stretch the film with a cloth. It is necessary that it tightly covers all structural elements. Thus, in the corners between the sheathing and rafters, wooden slats are nailed on top of the film.

Next layer - vapor barrier film, bottom edge which must be attached to the rafters. The joints of vapor barrier and waterproofing films must overlap each other and be secured with construction tape.

How to make the roof of a house warmer if you plan to use the attic?

In this case, the insulation and film are laid on top of the sheathing and rafter structures.

It is undesirable to use polyurethane foam boards, since this material is not able to fit tightly together.

It is more reliable to use mineral wool as one of the layers and be sure to use waterproofing film. Essentially, the principle insulation works not too different.

As you can see, roofing a house with your own hands is not a very long process, but a painstaking one. There are many nuances that must be observed for long-term operation of the entire building.

We advise you not to save on building materials. Choose perhaps more expensive, but reliable design options. Take the choice of boards and covering seriously. Pay attention to their integrity and quality. Study materials on how to properly build the roof of a house.