Cleaning of soot from a gas boiler thermobar 16kw. Gas heating boiler in a private house, cleaning the boiler from soot, useful tips. How to clean a solid fuel boiler. Cleaning methods

Often in country houses closed heating systems. When it is possible to connect the heating unit to the gas main, then solid fuel boilers are used.

It is necessary to periodically clean from tar, soot and tar. Proper Care for the product will extend its service life.

Fuel and combustion effects

Heating devices can operate on several types solid fuel depending on the design:

firewood;
peat.

When burning any type of solid fuel, residues appear - soot deposits, tar, tar. They need to be removed from the system regularly. Ash, ash and other combustion products accumulate on the surfaces of the combustion chamber. This may affect the stability of the instrument and cause malfunctions.

Causes of solid fuel combustion products:

The appearance of soot:

there is not enough oxygen in the system and the combustion process is unstable;
not high enough.

Resin appearance:

low quality fuel;
raw fuel;
the temperature in the boiler is not high enough;
too much fuel loaded.

The appearance of tar:

weak air flow entering the combustion chamber;
the unit is incorrectly designed;

Unwanted waste occurs as a result of improper operation. These factors also affect the increase in equipment wear.

The benefits of regular cleaning

Cleaning a solid fuel boiler with your own hands is quite simple, especially with the help of special tools and funds. There are only four methods for cleaning solid fuel boilers at home.

You can clean the boiler with:

pokers;
various special scrapers;
blades of various widths;
metal brushes;
ruff;
special means for cleaning boilers.

Cleaning Safety Rules:

Do-it-yourself cleaning with tools and products is done only after complete shutdown of the boiler.
In no case do not clean a running or hot boiler.
During maintenance of the boiler, the damper must be fully open.

Chemical cleaning

In order for the heating of the household to take place efficiently and uninterruptedly, an excellent working condition of all elements of the heating system is necessary.

The main heating device is. For it to work stably, you need to regularly carry it out. Maintenance. An important maintenance operation is cleaning the gas boiler from soot and soot. Let's talk in more detail about how to effectively clean the boiler.

Causes and consequences of soot

Soot in the boiler is a product of gas combustion. When exiting through the chimney, this mixture, which consists of organic compounds and carbon, sticks to the walls of the boiler and chimney.

Untimely cleaning of the boiler and chimney can lead to the following consequences:

traction decreases, and as a result, carbon monoxide may begin to enter the home, and this, in turn, can cause severe damage to the health of households;
the accumulation of soot in the chimney can provoke a fire, in other words, the level of fire safety is significantly reduced;
the occurrence of soot on the walls of the boiler significantly reduces the heat transfer to the heating elements;
accumulated soot significantly reduces the operation of the boiler, which leads to increased gas consumption.

These points once again confirm that regular cleaning of the boiler and chimney is a must. Before getting rid of soot, first of all, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for carrying out this type of work, and also have everything at hand. necessary tools and materials.

The appearance of soot can lead to the attenuation of the gas boiler:

Boiler cleaning tools

In order to qualitatively clean gas equipment from soot and soot, you must first of all acquire necessary set tool.

This kit should include:

Having necessary kit tools, you can go directly to cleaning the boiler and chimney.

Procedure

In order to carry out the correct and effective cleaning gas boiler from soot and soot, you must perform a number of the following steps:

Specialist's note: in order to properly reassemble the boiler, it is necessary to carefully remember the location of all dismantled components and parts during disassembly.

Thus, we talked in great detail about how to properly clean the gas boiler and chimney from soot. We will be glad if you use our tips!

Watch a video in which an experienced user clearly shows how to clean a gas boiler (AGV) from soot:

The information we offer will help you quickly, accurately and without the help of specialists to carry out regular preventive maintenance of single- or double-circuit gas boilers. The quality of cleaning the heat exchanger double-circuit boiler with your own hands will not be inferior to the work of the service department, for the price - spend no more than 100 rubles, for the time - a maximum of 2 hours. Interesting? Then read on.

A bit of theory

The principle of operation of any gas boiler is to heat the coolant during the combustion of gas. The design of the heat exchanger, through which the heated to certain temperature coolant, about the same. This is a curved pipe made of copper or stainless steel, which is called a coil. When converting gas to thermal energy it heats up and with it water or any other coolant that circulates through the heating system is heated.

A system of plates is responsible for heating the water in the heat exchanger, which is outwardly identical to a car radiator. With its help, you can increase the temperature of the water, reduce it or send it to one of the circuits, if we are talking about double-circuit boilers.

It is this, relatively speaking, "radiator" of a gas boiler that needs regular cleaning More specifically, flushing.

Why it is necessary to clean the heat exchanger of a gas boiler

The main material for the manufacture of the coil is copper or its alloys. And in pure form, and as a component, copper has good thermal conductivity, but at the same time, an oxide coating appears quite quickly, which cannot be removed by a non-mechanical method.

Gradually, the layer of copper oxide increases. Reducing the thermal conductivity and lowering the efficiency of the gas boiler. With the same gas consumption, the house will be 15-30% colder in winter time.

Gas nozzles also need to be cleaned, through which gas enters the plates and heats the coolant.

Experts recommend that such cleaning of the gas boiler heat exchanger be carried out annually, but in most cases these are preventive measures that justify the service work and the cost of the operation. In fact, it is enough to clean the heat exchanger once every 2-3 years before starting heating season to be completely sure of the correct operation of the boiler and the rational use of fuel.

It is worth paying attention to your kettle. If the plaque is significant and appears quickly after cleaning, hard water, and then the heat exchanger will have to be cleaned 1 in 2 years. If not, a 3-year break is enough.

Cleaning - the first stage

First of all, prepare the tools:

screwdriver on "+" and "-";
wrench;
vacuum cleaner;
brush;
gloves.

Depending on the model of the gas boiler, the procedure for accessing the combustion chamber may differ. In some it is enough to remove the cover from front side, unscrew the bolts from the combustion chamber and get to the heat exchanger, in others it is necessary to dismantle sections of the rubber seal and remove the refractory walls.

As soon as the covers are removed, you can immediately see a mountain of debris at the bottom of the boiler, which is usually sucked in from the street. This area can simply be vacuumed and dust and dirt accumulated during downtime can be wiped off.

Nozzle cleaning

The nozzles are located at the bottom of the chamber, and through them gas for combustion enters the boiler. Be very careful about cleaning, because the worse you do it, the more heat will go past your house. Ideally, all nozzles should become completely transparent. If cleaning is carried out regularly, it is enough to do soft cloth, if rarely or even for the first time, a hard brush or a new toothbrush lubricated with ordinary toilet soap will come in handy. It is lubricated so that the soapy solution does not flood the nozzles.

To clean this node, it must be unscrewed. Adapters are used as connectors, so there should not be any difficulties. Also carefully disconnect the temperature sensor.

First of all, you are engaged in flushing the heat exchanger of the gas boiler from the outside. Take a deep container, pour water and any descaler. If it is not at hand, you can get by with citric acid, but the water should be hot enough - 60-70 degrees. Soak for 40 minutes, then rinse under high pressure with water.

Do not rub the heat exchanger plates with rags, sponges or brushes. This is a soft material that is easy to wrinkle.

The best way to clean the boiler heat exchanger is a manual car wash, but you need to control the power of the jet so that the plates remain intact.

You can even prevent the upper part of the assembly from drying out and proceed directly to cleaning the “insides”, more precisely the coil through which the heat exchanger circulates. As a rule, if there is soft water in the room, a significant amount of scale does not have time to accumulate inside during the time between services, but in principle it can be, so the pipe should also be thoroughly cleaned. By the way, household filters do not affect the rate of appearance of scale and lime deposits.

How to wash the heat exchanger of a gas boiler

If with outer part easy to handle even household remedy from scale, then to clean the inside of the pipe you will need a more serious preparation, but also from a number of household ones.

Cilit has proven itself well for cleaning toilets, removing plaque. The agent must be liquid and thick to fill the entire pipe. Then it is necessary to flush the pipe with any decalcifying agent or the same citric acid at the rate of 30 grams per liter of water. Pour into the pipe and leave for a few minutes, take it out, shake it powerfully several times, and then thoroughly rinse it 10 times under a large stream of water to completely wash off all the remaining scale.

On the video you can see clearly how to properly and how to clean the heat exchanger of a double-circuit gas boiler:

After that. once you have cleaned the heat exchanger from all sides, dry it and reassemble it in reverse order.

For those who have decided to do “cleaning” for the first time, we recommend filming the whole process or taking photos during the parsing process. It will be much easier to collect later and will not appear unnecessary details, as is often the case.

Connect the heat exchanger to the boiler and temperature sensor and turn it on full power. It should be checked how well it works and during which time the coolant has heated up.

This completes the process. Total spent - 62 rubles for citric acid and 2 hours of time. For comparison, in Moscow the cost of this front of work will cost an average of 1000 rubles, in Kirov - from 300 to 500, depending on the model of the boiler.

A chain of events prompted me to write this publication, forcing me to try my hand at self-maintenance of a gas boiler. I will note right away that this is not quite an “exchange of best practices”, as it is usually presented, since some of the facts stated, on the contrary, speak of the initial complete inexperience of the user. But, perhaps, the information presented will help those who read it to avoid such mistakes.

The fact is that with the seeming abundance of information on the network, I had to face the fact that intelligible step by step instructions it is not so easy to find - most often everything is limited to selective advice on the forums. The factory manual covers many problems quite dryly, and does not bring much clarity, and some important aspects in general, it is practically missed, which, in principle, led to the situation that will be discussed. So, what caused and how the AOGV-11.6-3 gas boiler was cleaned with their own hands.

In acquired own house we moved in September 2002. The heating system was (and still is), but then it was organized according to the principle of natural circulation. The boiler room is in a separate annex, equipped according to all existing rules. An old cast-iron boiler was used as a heat generator. gas burners, some, as I remember now, incredibly large sizes, also with "self-made" laying of fireclay bricks inside. It was a complete ruin with him: every month in our not the coldest winters (Moldova, Transnistria), the counter wound up 800 cubic meters!

In a word, it was decided to carry out a replacement. We opted for AOGV-11.6-3-U, both for reasons of low cost and taking into account the mass good reviews about this model from friends. A circulation pump was also installed at the same time. The results were not long in coming - already next winter the house was much more comfortable, and the heat was distributed evenly throughout all the rooms. And the monthly gas consumption fell by more than three times! - usually fit into 220 - 270 cubic meters.

To the credit of the manufacturers, it must be said right away that over the past 13 years there have been absolutely no problems with the operation of these purchased devices. Even in cold winter 2008-2009, when the next “gas war” was going on, and the pressure in the gas supply pipes was reduced to a critical minimum, the boiler coped with the task quite well - it was not hot at home, and we were not in danger of freezing. To be honest, it was even strange for me to read on the forums that in many houses such a gas valve button is constantly tied up - there were simply no problems with automation during the entire period of operation.

Visits of gas inspectors in our city are held regularly. There have never been any particular complaints about the operation of the equipment. The only remark was the year before last - to replace the corrugated section of the chimney (before inserting into the root pipe) with one made of galvanized steel. The shortcoming has been eliminated.

This year, the cold snap came a little early, and already in early October it was decided to start the boiler at the lowest power. But a problem was discovered - the igniter wick did not want to light up, and if it did, it was with such a tiny flame that it was barely visible. Naturally, such a torch did not provide heating of the thermocouple, and the automation did not work.

A similar situation (but on a smaller scale: the torch ignited immediately, but was weak) was also observed a year earlier. The igniter nozzle was clearly clogged, and last year it helped that I (at my own peril and risk) managed to spray a can of carburetor cleaning liquid on this “jet” through a long curved tube. After the liquid evaporated, I tried to light it - everything worked, and last winter there were no more problems during the entire heating season.

Last year, we managed to do without showdowns - the nozzle was cleared of such liquid for carburetors

But this year, such a measure turned out to be insufficient - the effect turned out to be even the opposite. The igniter didn't light up at all.

I really didn’t want to completely remove the entire gas unit with burners (and I didn’t even know how accessible it was then). I tried, by unscrewing the gas supply tube to the igniter from the magnetic valve block, to blow it through with a car pump. Useless. There is nothing to do - I had to think how to remove the entire block of burners in order to carry out mechanical cleaning igniter nozzles.

The boiler, of course, is tied up, the system is filled. Access from below is minimal, since the boiler is still standing in a special pit. All this at first was very frightening - how to dismantle the gas unit? sensible advice I didn’t find it, but I came across a hint on one of the forums - this node rotates about the central axis - the input gas pipe.

Since there were no operations of any significant scale, I did not take a photo at that stage. The operations shown below were carried out later, when the boiler was re-dismantled. But the essence remains the same.

So, if you try to look at the boiler from below (for the initial examination of the "situation" at first I used a mirror placed underneath), something like this opens up:

The burner block itself is mounted on the bottom cover. Arrow pos. 1 shows the inlet of the gas supply pipe to the main burner. Pos. 2 is the input of the igniter and thermocouple tubes. And this entire assembly, in addition to the rigidity of the gas pipe, is held on the flanging of the cylindrical casing of the boiler by three hooks. They are located along the edge of the bottom plate at the vertices of a regular triangle. The blue arrow shows one of them, the one located somewhat to the left of the ignition window.

The second hook is closer to the back of the boiler on the left (if you are facing the ignition window).

The third one is almost exactly under the automation unit, at the level of vertical tubes descending to the pallet.

After a thorough inspection of the entire bottom part, I did not find any other fasteners or fixing elements. This means that there must be grooves through which these protrusions can be disengaged from the flanging of the casing. As a result, it turned out that there was only one groove, and it was located in the area of the third hook (in the course of the show). To get on it, the pallet must be turned slightly clockwise. In the illustration, the direction of rotation is indicated by a green arrow. By the way, the opening unpainted section of the casing is also clearly visible - you can see how the pallet is shifting.
Understood the principle of fastening. But in order to turn the pan and remove the burner block, of course, it is necessary to disconnect the gas pipe, the igniter tube and the thermocouple contact tube from the automation unit.
First of all, I checked once again whether the gas supply from the home wiring was turned off.

Then he carefully unscrewed the nuts on the fittings of the automation unit.

1 - gas supply pipe to the igniter torch. key for 12.

2 – tube with thermocouple contact. key for 12.

3 - gas supply pipe to the main burner. Key for 27.

The paronite gasket on the main gas pipe has been removed. Checked - excellent condition. On the flare tube - the gasket remained on the fitting of the tee, but also - it is clear that it is not worn out, and will still serve quite well.

After disassembling this assembly, the pallet turned quite easily, and through the groove, the holder closest to the tubes disengaged from the casing. Now, supporting the pallet from below, we slightly feed it towards ourselves - and the other two holders also come out of engagement. We lower the entire assembly to the floor, and then carefully pull it out between the legs of the boiler.

The photo shows the removed pallet, but I will make a reservation again - the photos were taken later, during the secondary disassembly of the boiler. The first time the picture was much "cleaner". Further, the text will make it clear why so much attention is paid to this.

I checked the condition of the main burner - it was completely clean, with no signs of any deformation. There were no complaints about her work.
Then he moved on to the "culprit" of this whole undertaking - to the nozzle of the ignition torch. I unscrewed the two screws holding this assembly (wick plus thermocouple) in the assembled position. The screws, however, at first resisted, but after processing with WD-40 they still went. He removed the box-shaped casing from the pilot burner, got to the nozzle.

The brass nozzle itself was covered on top with a light white coating (like scale), and this was removed very quickly, without effort, with fine sandpaper. The nozzle itself, yes, was overgrown, barely “drawn” even visually. It's okay too - he took a thin copper vein from a loose cable and cleared the hole. For a guarantee, I also blew under pressure with a pump from the side of connecting the tube to the tee of the automation unit. All task completed!

At the same time, while there is free access, I very carefully cleaned the bend of the thermocouple tube with sandpaper-“zero”: there was a very light layer of oxide - it accumulated during the period of summer downtime.
I carefully assembled all the nodes in reverse order. I suffered a little with the reverse installation of the pallet - but then I got used to it.

First, it is necessary to progressively, without skew, raise this entire block so that the burner goes inside the housing, and the igniter and thermocouple assembly does not cling to the flanging of the casing. Then, standing on the side of the pipes, slightly push this entire assembly towards you, give a slight downward slope so that the opposite edge of the pallet rises slightly (literally a couple of degrees!) Then, while feeding the pallet forward, you should simultaneously put on two distant hooks so that they go into the flanging of the casing. Direct the hook closest to you into the cut groove, and when it enters it, turn the entire pallet counterclockwise. The magnitude of this rotation will be visually indicated by the position of the pipes - the gas pipe will be directly under its branch pipe of the automation unit, as it was during disassembly.

I installed all the tubes in place, after checking the presence and correct fit of the gaskets. I tightened the nuts on the gas supply pipe and on the igniter tube with a wrench. Before reinstalling the thermocouple tube, very carefully, literally barely touching, I cleaned the contact pads with a “zero”. This nut, in accordance with the recommendations read, was tightened not with a key, but by hand, only with the force of the fingers.
I checked the tightness of the connections - I brought a sponge from the kitchen with detergent, opened the gas supply, “washed” the joints of the gas pipes - everything is fine, there are no signs of a leak.
I tried to start the boiler. The wick caught fire perfectly - with an even flame, "washing" the thermocouple bend. Literally after 15-20 seconds - it worked gas valve. I waited a couple of minutes, then opened the gas supply to the main burner - it caught fire evenly, without cotton. I experimented - I closed and opened the supply to the main burner several times: everything is fine - the wick burns evenly, does not go out, the burner ignites as normal.

That's it, I set approximately the desired level of heating, closed the shield on the ignition window, and left, full of pride in the work successfully done.

I didn’t know then that my “adventures” were just beginning!

Find out by studying the main evaluation criteria in a special article on our portal.

An unexpected problem

For several days, the operation of the boiler did not cause any complaints - it did not fade, the heating system worked well. However, about a week passed, and it seemed to me that a previously unusual smell appeared in the boiler room - this is not the smell of gas in its pure form, but rather the “aroma” of burnt gas. In addition, it began to give the impression that, according to the feelings of the household, there was a lack of warmth.

A couple of times the boiler went out at night - for no apparent reason. Well, then - more. About a week later, when I entered the boiler room, I saw an eerie picture - the burner flame was trying to “get out” through the ignition window closed by the shield. Enough large plot the metal casing above the window was almost red-hot, the paint on it was completely burned to the “pure” metal.

Naturally, the boiler was immediately extinguished. After it cooled down, I tried, as an experiment, to ignite. The wick works fine, the automation also works well. But when the main burner is ignited, then, firstly, the flame has pronounced orange ends of the flames. And secondly, the “crown” of the flame is not directed completely upwards, but also tends to the gap between the heat exchanger and the outer casing of the boiler.

It is clear - this is a clear sign that inside the boiler the flow of hot gases meets some kind of resistance, in a word - the channels are overgrown with soot. Soot is everywhere, even on the contour of the ignition window - it has never happened before that I somehow get my hands dirty when igniting, and now black spots appear on my fingers, by the way, they are very difficult to wash off even with warm water and soap.

But the question remains unanswered - why? After all, in so many years, I have never had to deal with such a problem.

Useful again on the forums - to look for the cause. And on one of them I came across useful advice- such a picture is characteristic of incomplete combustion of gas, without supply additional air. He began to deal more closely with the design of his boiler, and revealed something that he had simply not paid attention to before. This is a collar-shaped damper at the inlet of the gas pipe to the boiler, from below, right at the pallet. There, on the pipe, there are two diametrically opposite holes, which are covered by this damper.

I ran to check: it is - the damper almost completely covers both holes. Poor knowledge of the "materiel" led to the fact that I did not pay attention to this nuance at all. And in the process of disassembling the block of burners, apparently, he accidentally moved this damper to a position in which air access was blocked.

I tried to open these windows and ignite the boiler - yes, the flame immediately changed color and became more even. But the "crown", of course, still tends to the space between the casing and the heat exchanger, that is, the reason found does not save me from cleaning the boiler.

Boiler cleaning

It is clear that in order to carry out cleaning, I need to disassemble again - also dismantle the burner block, and plus to this - remove top cover boiler.

I had to suffer a little with the removal of the umbrella, turning into metal part chimney. The fact is that in the boiler room itself - brick, root type, installed on the foundation, and two pipes are embedded in it - from the boiler and, above, from the gas column.

I walled the boiler pipe myself, did it in due time with high quality, and it “sits” very tightly. I had to make an effort to achieve a small backlash. But in the end it turned out - it was possible to raise it so that there was enough clearance to remove the umbrella from the pipe. The picture turned out to be very colorful.

Soot deposits are already visible under the umbrella itself. And if you look at the umbrella from below, then on the hemispherical divider-collector of condensate there is a soft loose layer of soot with a thickness of under 10 millimeters.

To remove the top cover of the boiler, you must first disconnect and dismantle the draft sensor. It is held on the cover with plates that are screwed with two self-tapping screws (in the illustration above - shown by blue arrows). But no matter how much I twisted these self-tapping screws, they turned in place, without moving up a millimeter. In the end, he spat on this matter - he decided to remove the cover along with the sensor. To do this, first, using a 14 key, unscrewed the nut connecting the tube to the tee of the automation unit.

I immediately checked the paronite gasket - “live”, remained in place, and therefore decided not to disturb it.

Further, it would seem, everything is simple - the lid is fixed on the boiler casing with three self-tapping screws.

The self-tapping screw, which is located on the front side of the boiler, came out quite easily.

But the other two - had a "violent resistance." They simply didn't want to budge. Neither powerful screwdrivers, nor WD-40 processing, nor tapping helped - they stand motionless.

In the end, the slots for the screwdriver began to “lick” - but all with the same zero result. There was only one way out - to cut off the heads of the screws with a grinder, fortunately, they were not made “under the sweat”.

It's okay - cut very neatly. Looking ahead, I will say that I subsequently replaced these mounts with roofing screws with a hexagon head - in case of future cleaning of the boiler. It holds even better, and unscrewing it will not be any problem.

The lid sat tight, and I even had to tap it a little from the bottom - resting a wooden block on the bottom edge. After that, she took off smoothly.

On back side the covers are clearly visible traces that remain due to improper passage of combustion products. They found their way between the heat exchanger and the boiler shell, then converged to the central opening of the chimney.

Naturally, there is no need to talk about any efficiency of the boiler in such a situation - it rather warmed the boiler room than gave off heat to the system. It is better to keep silent about the safety of such functioning.

The water heat exchanger of the boiler is covered from above with its cover. It is fixed and tightly pressed against it with the help of special fasteners - metal wedges (in the illustration above they are shown by yellow arrows). These fasteners come off very easily.

I thought they were springs - nothing like that. These wedges are made from normal mild steel and their ribs are bent in the same way as conventional cotter pins. They are easily reduced to the center, and then the wedge is removed from the slot.

In the same way, I removed all the stoppers, and then removed the cover. And horrified...

This small gap between the heat exchanger and the cover, in which the gas flows from the three channels must be combined into one central one to exit the chimney, is tightly clogged with soot.

Now it is necessary to get inserts-turbulators of the gas flow from the channels of the heat exchanger. They succumbed without much resistance when he picked them up with pliers.

The picture turned out even worse than I could have imagined - the layer of soot deposits on the blades of the turbulators is impressive in its thickness!

At the same time, I immediately see what condition these vertical cylindrical channels are in. Picture matching...

Naturally, even if we “bracket” the problems of traction, there is no question of any efficiency of the boiler with a heat exchanger so overgrown on the outside.

Next, I removed the boiler tray with the burner block - how this operation is performed, I have already told above.

Everything, you can go directly to cleaning all the nodes. For this operation, an ordinary plastic bottle brush was purchased at a hardware store - it will go for vertical channels. Tie it up with duct tape wooden lath to traverse the channels over their entire height.

I know that the “classic” for home creativity is blue electrical tape, but I only had white 🙂

And for cleaning other parts and surfaces, I purchased a flat brush with soft brass bristles.

I start cleaning from the upper plane of the heat exchanger - I clean and sweep down all the soot deposits. It turned out as shown in the illustration above.
Then I move on to cleaning the channels. Soot moves away from the walls quite easily - it has not yet had time to “zadubet”. Characteristically, it is very oily.

After cleaning the boiler itself, I turn to the removed parts and assemblies. In order not to breed excess dirt in the boiler room, I transfer all this action to the yard.

The burner itself is clean this time, except for the soot that attacked from above - it was easily brushed off with a brush. At the same time, I immediately slightly clean the thermocouple tube with a “zero” - this will not hurt.

After the cleaning operation is completed, I proceed to the reassembly of the boiler. First, I installed the block of burners in place - this has already been discussed above. I immediately connected all the tubes, checked the gaskets and tightened the nuts.

And here I immediately focused my attention on the position of the air channel valve. When cleaning, I removed this clamp from the pipe (I really don’t know why), but when reverse installation it turned out that it was made of mild steel, and did not possess any springy qualities. After installation, it began to hang out and just slide down. I had to make a small improvement - to drill holes in the "ears", and after putting on the damper, slightly tighten it with a long M5 screw. It turned out fine - now the clamp is securely held in a predetermined position, but moving it is not difficult.

The illustration shows that the air inlets are half open.

The next step is to put the turbulators in place.

The installation of turbulators is very simple, and it is simply impossible to make a mistake here - they are inserted into the channels and held in them due to the broadening of the central metal plate. I insert them so that this plate is oriented along the radius of the cylindrical heat exchanger, that is, the blades will be located approximately tangentially to the circle.

The next step is to replace the heat exchanger cover. The eyelets for the clamps entered the slots in the cover.

I insert metal cotter pins-wedges into the slots of the eyes, and lightly knock them out from the back - so that the cover fits as tightly as possible to the heat exchanger. After that, I spread the antennae with pliers - that's it, the lid is securely fixed.

Next, I reinstall the top cover of the boiler. Navigate with her right position Holes from a single self-tapping screw that came out normally help. In my case, the thrust sensor was not removed - it is already in place, and all that remains is to connect its tube to the tee and tighten the nut.

I complete the assembly by installing the cap. I slip it under the pipe, put it on its socket (it fits very tightly), and then carefully put it in place. Three protrusions on the cap should fit into the corresponding holes in the boiler cover, and in this case, the cut-out semicircular window will be located above the passing tube of the temperature sensor.

Naturally, after that all connections were checked for tightness.
I turn to the long-awaited moment - to start the boiler. The wick caught fire immediately, and after 15 seconds the magnetic valve worked. So far so good.

I open the gas supply - the burner ignites easily, the fire burns with an even crown, with the same height of the flames, and they do not look to the sides, but are directed pronouncedly upwards, which was to be proved!

I tried to "play" with the air damper. As a result, I had to open it a little more - I achieved an even blue flame, practically without impurities of red or orange hues. The experimental shutdown and gas supply (simulation of boiler shutdowns and starts) was successful - the igniter flame is stable, and the burner ignites immediately and almost silently.

Two weeks have passed since then - there were no complaints about the operation of the boiler! Winter is ahead, and I hope that the heating system will not present us with any unpleasant surprises.

And for myself I decided the following:

Be more attentive to the little things of any design - everything has its purpose, and ill-conceived actions can lead to emergency situations.
The cleaning process has been mastered, it is not so complicated, so I will carry it out regularly - before the start of each heating season, at least for prevention.

Find out how to produce by studying the requirements that must be met in a special article on our portal.

The author acknowledges that similar works, in general, should be carried out by appropriate specialists. Therefore, this article should be regarded not as a guide to action, but only as a story about what happened - about how one very small mistake, inattention, led to serious problems and demanded their urgent removal. I hope that the information received will be useful to someone.

Heat Exchanger Flushing Methods

When choosing a washing method, they usually focus on their own capabilities and knowledge. Let's take a look at three commonly used methods.

Method #1 - manual cleaning

To perform it, it is necessary to carefully remove the heat exchanger from the boiler, otherwise there will be no free access to contaminated surfaces. Next, choose or mechanical cleaning, or washing with solutions. For mechanical removal deposits will require a scraper, brush and vacuum cleaner. For flushing, which is good for double-circuit boilers, a salt-dissolving liquid.

At manual way cleaning all actions must be neat and careful. When mounting the heat exchanger in place, carefully check the tightness of the connections.

After removing the heat exchanger from the boiler body, you will understand that the inner surface of its main part, the curved pipe, needs to be cleaned, and it will be extremely problematic to manually perform a full cleaning

Method # 2 - chemical solution through a booster

It involves the use of special equipment - a booster, with the help of which an acid flushing solution is pumped into the heat exchanger. For a long time, it is run through the pipes several times, as a result, the plaque dissolves and is removed along with the flushing fluid. As a result, indicators bandwidth and thermal conductivity increases. Even the most persistent contaminants, such as salt deposits of carbonate and deposits of ferric iron, lend themselves to an acidic solution. Acid residues in pipes are neutralized special solution, which is finally launched into the heat exchanger.

Method # 3 - hydrodynamic flushing

Does not require disassembly of equipment. It consists in pumping water (in some cases with an abrasive filler) and subsequent pressure build-up. The movement of the liquid at an increased speed causes the destruction of deposits, which as a result are brought to the outside. There is a danger of exceeding critical pressure values, which may result in pipe rupture.

Self-cleaning of the heat exchanger is not recommended. The best decision- contact professionals who have access to work with gas equipment. Knowing the methods and sequence of cleaning, you will be able to control the work of specialists.

Prevention and repair of gas equipment by specialists ensures that high-quality equipment, proven materials, safe technologies will be used - and all this in compliance with the norms

Cleaning the boiler from soot

Along with cleaning the chimney, the channels of the gas boiler itself are also cleaned. If the chimney becomes dirty and there are problems with draft, the equipment is automatically switched off. With the accumulation of soot inside the boiler, the shutdown does not occur, and the residents of the house can be poisoned by combustion products. In addition, contaminated equipment does not function properly, so it is recommended to perform the cleaning procedure annually, especially for boilers operating year-round.

Disassembly and removal of soot

To remove the parts of the boiler and clean them, you will need a simple set of tools:

screwdriver;
brushes (soft and metal);
brush;
open-end wrenches (No. 8-17);
rag.

By following the steps described in sequence, you can completely clean internal details geyser and prevent an accident or smoke in the room.

Useful any tools with which you can remove limescale With metal surface, and also not to do without wrenches

So, the first thing to do is turn off the gas. Then we remove the boiler door and disconnect the wire leading to the piezoelectric element. Then, one by one, unscrew the thermocouple, the ignition electrode and the pilot burner tube. It is better to mark the position of the nozzle in the burner so as not to disturb the setting. The gasket under the pilot burner must be replaced with a new one. We carefully take out the nozzle, the copper tube, and after it the burner, unscrewing the set of clamps.

For unscrewing the nut fixing the copper tube, a key No. 17 is suitable, for removing the ignition electrode - No. 10, unscrewing the screws for fixing the pilot burner - a flat screwdriver

Having taken out the thermometer sleeve, remove the boiler cover together with the insulating sheet. Then we take out the gas duct, having previously disconnected the terminals from the traction sensor. The swirlers removed from the heat exchanger are cleaned with a brush. Similarly, we clean the base and the outer part of the heat exchanger. We blow out the internal channels with a vacuum cleaner.

To clean the burner, we use brushes and a brush. The flue must be wiped from all sides. special attention requires cleaning the nozzle: it is enough to clean the outer surface with a brush, and for the hole you need a thin needle, the diameter of which is smaller than the diameter of the hole. If you accidentally increase the width of the hole, the combustion mode will be disturbed.

All elements of the heat exchanger, internal and external, must be cleaned with a hard metal brush. Settled dust and lime residue can be easily removed with a vacuum cleaner and a damp cloth.

The brush is ideal for removing plaque internal surfaces any form - heat exchanger elements, copper tube. The longer the handle. the easier it is to reach hard-to-reach places

Assembly in reverse order

We return the main burner, copper tube and nozzle to their place. Then we install a pilot burner on a new gasket, having previously cleaned it with a metal brush. When connecting the ignition electrode, it is better not to use a key, but to act manually so as not to damage the ceramic base. The rest of the details are also fixed in place. As a control check, we use soaping of the joints. Tightness of fixation copper tubes and burners can only be checked at the time of switching on.

When assembling a pilot burner, one rule to remember is that the tip of the thermocouple must be opposite the place where the flame appears.

Preventive and cleaning work it is better to spend on the eve of the heating season. In any case, the parts will be covered with soot, which accumulates over time, so the procedure for cleaning gas boiler elements is very importance- both for the efficient functioning of the boiler itself, and for the safety of the inhabitants of the house. And once again we remind you that it is better to entrust any work with gas equipment to specialists!