Curtain ventilated facades: calculation of quantities and selection of materials. Holders for gutters: rules for selecting and installing brackets under the gutter Number of brackets for mounting bimetallic radiators

From universal mounting angles for 6 rubles to retro brackets with twisted patterns.

1.METAL BRACKETS FOR SHELVES (CONSOLES)

Prices from 20 rub./piece.

Corner brackets (consoles) are used for mounting shelving, wall and internal shelves of cabinets using self-tapping screws and dowels. But other uses are also possible - for example, in construction they often reinforce a window sill.

Palladium brackets are made of carbon steel, galvanized and painted with durable polymer paint. Thanks to the stiffening rib, they can withstand vertical loads of up to 40 kg/piece. For comparison: filled with books wooden shelf 1 m long weighs 20-25 kg.

Choose a bracket so that the shelf overhangs it by no more than 1/3 of its width. This rule applies to any other brackets. To select a model with the required load, use the table:

L-shaped bracket(USB model 08)

Prices from 50 rub./piece.

Bracket in modern style for those who prefer minimalism and functionality to ostentatious chic with its “expensive and rich” feel. Models 30x30 and 50x50 can be used in furniture production(for example, in arranging a cabinet niche), and the 100x100 bracket looks advantageous with a narrow glass or mirror shelf.

Material – steel. Dimensions: 30x30, 50x50, 75x75, 100x100. Colors: white, black.

Bracket with strut(USB 60 model)

Prices from 579 RUR/pcs.

It has a brace - an elegant diagonal strip, which also provides the product with greater strength. Brackets with a curved or twisted brace are also called arched and are used in any interior: from modern to Scandinavian style to Art Deco.

Material – steel. Dimensions: 150x200, 200x250, 300x300, 350x400. Color: white, black.

Openwork brackets(model “Ornament”)

Prices from 233 RUR/pcs.

If you are tired of Ikea and your heart demands luxury, pay attention to this bracket with a twisted ornament (and also a stiffener). It looks impressive with glass shelf– there will be a place to place your favorite souvenirs and ceramics. You can also hang a candle lantern or a flowerpot with fresh flowers on it.

Material – steel, maximum load – 25 kg/piece. Dimensions: 100x100, 150x150, 200x200, 250x250. Colors: white, black, bronze, gold.

3.METAL MOUNTING ANGLES (UTILITARY BRACKETS)

Metal corners are inexpensive and versatile fasteners that are used for a variety of purposes: from joining window frames before fastening the supporting beams in the house.

Although there are many types of such fasteners, Palladium produces mainly household corners for connecting wooden and other structures at an angle of 90°. They are used for the manufacture of window frames, in repair and finishing works, but most often - in the assembly of furniture: cabinets, tables, cabinets, etc.

All Palladium furniture corners are stamped from high-carbon sheet steel, galvanized (which eliminates corrosion) and have 4 or 6 holes for nails or screws.

Rectangular metal corners

Prices from 25 rub./piece.

The final stage of the roof installation is the installation of the drainage system. Among various systems you need to choose the one that suits your requirements - galvanized metal or plastic. Gutter manufacturers offer a full range of components. For information on how to perform the installation itself, read the article.

Calculation of components

Based on the size and shape of the roof, you can independently calculate how many pipes, gutters, brackets and other parts of the drainage system you will need.

Based on the size of the roof, we select the diameter of the gutters:

If the roof area is less than 50 m2, gutters 100 mm wide and pipes 75 mm in diameter are used.
Up to 100 m2, 125 mm gutters and 87 mm pipes are used.
More than 100 m2 - gutters 150 mm and pipes 100 mm (the use of gutters 190 mm and pipes 120 mm is allowed).

In the case of a complex roof structure, gutters and pipes are determined by largest size projections of part of the roof.

The roof area, consisting of parts, is 160 m2. Considering that one drain pipe is enough to service 100 m2 of roofing in projection, for the roof in the example you will need 2 drain pipes located at the corners of the house. The number of funnels corresponds to the number of pipes, i.e. - 2 pieces.

The number of vertical pipes is determined depending on the distance from the cornice to the blind area. Subtract 30 cm from this distance - the height of the drain elbow above ground level.

For example, the height to the cornice is 7.5 m. Then 7.5 m -0.3 m = 7.2 m.

We will need 3 pipes of 3 m each on each side, which means 6 pipes on both sides.

The number of clamps will be 5 for each side (between the elbow and the pipe, between the pipe and the ebb, and between the pipes) and, accordingly, 10 pieces for the entire roof.

Calculation of the number of gutters

The most commonly used gutter size is 3 meters. The length of cornice A and cornice B is 10.3 m. This means we need:

There are 4 gutters on cornice A (3m + 3m + 3m + 1.3m). This will leave us with another 1.7 m of unused gutter.
On cornice B there are 3 gutters and the remainder (1.7 m) from cornice A.
For eaves C and D we use 2 gutters each, that is 4 pieces on both sides.
In total, 11 gutters of 3 m each for the entire roof.

The number of gutter corners corresponds to the number of roof corners, in our example there are 4.

Calculation of the number of brackets and gutter locks

The brackets are installed at the rate of 1 piece per approximately 50-60 cm. We take 50 cm and carry out the calculations.

Having summed up the numbers in the last column, we find out that in order to attach the gutters, we will need 58 brackets.

The number of locks between the gutters is equal to the number of joints. In our case, this is 16 pcs.

The number of ebbs (marks) is equal to the number of funnels. In this case, you need 2 times more knees for each funnel. Then for 2 funnels you need:

4 knees;
Low tide 2.

If the facade is not level, but has protrusions, you need to purchase elbows to go around it. The figure below will help you determine their number.

List of required items

In total for this drainage system you will need:

Gutter (3 m) – 8 pcs.
Gutter (2.5 m) – 2 pcs.
Gutter (1.3 m) – 2 pcs.
Gutter lock – 16 pcs.
Gutter angle – 4 pcs.
Bracket – 58 pcs.
Knee – 4 pcs.
Drain elbow (mark) – 2 pcs.
Pipe (3m) – 6 pcs.
Funnel – 2 pcs.
Clamp (with pin) – 10 pcs.

Pro tip:

Installation of brackets and gutters

Fastening the drainage system begins with marking the installation locations of the brackets using a marking thread.

The center of the gutter should be located below the bottom edge of the roof. The gap between the line (shown in dotted lines in the diagram) of the continuation of the roof and the top of the gutter holder must be at least 25 mm.

The funnel is installed above the storm drain. The funnel must be secured to two brackets or at two points. The location of the funnel can be in the center or at the edge (set in the project). A hole is cut in the gutter using a hacksaw to the size of the funnel.

The brackets are fixed to the gutter line (the slope of the gutter line towards the funnel is from 2 to 5%). The installation pitch of the brackets is from 0.5 to 0.75 m (for selection, use the manufacturer’s “Installation Instructions for the Drainage System”). The extreme bracket is attached at a distance of 25-30 cm from the plug at the end of the gutter. Distance from corner element no more than 15 cm to the bracket.

The gutters are inserted into the brackets, starting from the rear, and plugs are installed at the ends. The joints of the gutters are fixed with special locks or connecting elements. The ends of the gutters should be located 50-100 mm behind the side edge of the roof. If the roof span is more than 8 m, an expansion element must be installed between the gutters.

Types of fastening and material of brackets

The brackets are installed on the rafter leg. Metal brackets are used.
When using a frontal (gable) board, plastic brackets are used.
The brackets are attached to the deck using metal extensions. Use plastic or metal brackets.

Possible errors and consequences

An increased pitch between the brackets leads to sagging of the gutters.
The mismatch between the edge of the roof and the middle of the gutter leads to overflow.
Increasing the gap between the gutter line and the edge of the roof - splashing and overflow.

Pro tip:

When cutting gutters and pipes, the use of angle grinders is not allowed, as the coating is damaged and burrs remain. Cutting is done with a hacksaw for metal. It is recommended to clean the cut ends with a file.

Installation of the figured part and drainage pipes

Laying a drain involves installing pipes from top to bottom, with the elbow, coupling and drain installed with the socket towards the top.

Installation is done as follows:

A piece of straight pipe of at least 60 mm is inserted into the knee-knee joint (depending on the distance between the front board and the wall).
Next, the necessary shaped part is assembled into which the upper end of the pipe is inserted.
The system is attached to the wall using clamps, the distance between which is up to 1.8 m. Only one clamp is fixing, the second is a guide. In some systems, the manufacturer recommends the use of clamps - thermal expansion compensators. The clamp is attached under the connector.
The pipe is positioned strictly vertically using a plumb line.
A drain elbow ( bottom edge at a distance of 25-30 cm from the blind area).
If there drainage system or a storm drain, then the lower end of the pipe goes there. The pipes are connected using a coupling (connector).
Each subsequent pipe is inserted into the connector installed on the previous one.
A clamp is attached under each connection.

Depending on the design features installation location, an elbow is attached to the funnel the desired shape or coupling. If the roof protrudes beyond the facade, two elbows and a piece of pipe are used. If the roof does not have a protrusion, then use a coupling.

Installation of roof drains is carried out taking into account compensation for thermal expansion. For this function, manufacturers use expansion gaps. Thus, pipe connectors in some systems have installation lines. The edge of the pipe is set along these lines depending on the air temperature at the time of installation. Silicone-treated seals allow elements to slide smoothly during expansion. When using a pipe connector, leave an air gap of at least 0.6-2 cm.

Pro tip:

It is not recommended to assemble the drainage system at temperatures below -5.

This completes the installation of the drainage system. It is necessary to audit all installed elements. If the configuration of the drainage system fully complies with the design, is calculated and installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations, then all the water falling on the roof will exit only through the pipes, without splashing or overflowing over the edges of the gutters.

At the end of each season, it is advisable to inspect and flush the system (using a hose with water). When clearing any obstructions (leaves, debris), do not use sharp metal objects.

Holders are the basic parts of an external drain that ensure the fixation of its drainage part. With the help of these hook-shaped brackets, gutters are installed and the configuration of the horizontal water intake circuit is formed. Craftsmen who want to correctly assemble and install a drainage system with their own hands should familiarize themselves with the specifics of these elements.

For an impeccable result of your work, you need to know how to correctly select holders for gutters, where and how they should be attached. In this article we will understand all these nuances.

Mounting holders drainage systems are produced in a wide range, which makes it possible to equip a roof of any structure and configuration with water intake devices.

They are produced for the installation of plastic and metal gutters, with a round or rectangular cross-section, with or without a protective and decorative coating.

In the manufacture of holders, a polymer compound or a steel alloy is used. Color plastic products usually exactly matches the color of the gutter, if the home owners did not have a craving for contrasts in the exterior picture. Metal hooks for gutters are available in galvanized versions with or without a polymer protective and decorative coating.

There are no special design differences in brackets produced for traditional types there are no roofs. These include three main varieties:

Long. They are elements in the form of hooks with a long mounting strip. Installed before laying the covering. Attached to the rafter legs, continuous lathing or its sparse analogue, reinforced along the fixation line with a cornice board.
Short. Hook-shaped parts with a mounting base combined with their back side. They are installed mainly after laying the coating, but can be installed before this stage. They are attached to the front board nailed to the ends of the rafter legs. In rare cases, just to the ends of the rafters.
Universal. They are a collapsible design consisting of a short holder and a removable mounting strip. Can be used as long or short brackets depending on the stage of work.

When installing before the roof laying stage, universal brackets are used together with a mounting strip and are installed in accordance with the rules for installing long holders. If fixing is done after laying the covering, they are attached like regular short hooks.

Except traditional types The market offers short brackets with a device for adjusting the slope of the mounting base and holders for roofs made of polymer polycarbonate. The first type is designed for fixation on the upper crown log house or on an inclined wind board. An example of such a base is the inward sloping frontal cladding of the roof of a veranda or terrace.

The second non-traditional type is gutter hooks for polycarbonate roofs. They are produced with a mounting device in the form of a kind of “clothespin” - a bracket. When arranging roofs with cellular polycarbonate one part of the staple is inserted between the outer and inside hollow plastic sheet. They are attached in two planes: to the front board and to the edge of the covering.

The same variety is used when arranging roofing structures with single-layer plastic slate. Such a bracket solves three important problems at once: it provides reliable fastening to rafter system, strengthening the roof edge and leveling in two dimensions. Moreover, the position can be adjusted after fixing the bracket.

Proper selection of the holder will eliminate unnecessary costs and actions during the installation period. For example, purchasing long hooks is impractical when carrying out repair work without replacing the roof. If they have already been purchased, then the row of tiles or slate lying on the eaves will have to be removed and put back after installation is completed. Profiled roofing steel will also require much more effort.

Things are much simpler with short hooks, which can be installed at any stage of repair or construction. However, it is not without reason that their long counterparts are recognized as the most reliable type of brackets, providing impeccable fixation to gutters for many years.

Installing Gutter Brackets

Let's look at the technology for attaching the most popular brackets to specific examples. First, let's list general rules Location of hooks for drainage systems:

A group of holders for one slope should form a slope of the gutter towards the drainage funnel with a riser attached to it. The slope value is indicated by the manufacturer of the gutter system, usually from 2 to 5 mm per 1 linear meter of gutter.
The brackets are installed with equal spacing. For steel and aluminum gutters every 600 - 900 mm. For copper gutters, the distance between the hooks varies in the range of 300 - 500 mm, for plastic systems pitch no more than 600 mm.
The extreme hooks of the linear gutter are installed 10 - 15 cm from the edge of the front board.
Holders of closed drainage circuits are mounted on both sides of the corner element.
Additional holders are mounted 5 - 10 cm from the water inlet funnel. When using expansion funnels and connecting elements plastic gutters must be installed next to them.

Based on the listed rules, the location of the brackets is designed and the quantity required for installation is calculated.

In addition to the listed features, it is necessary to observe the specific location of the hooks in cross-section, or in profile, so to speak. The gutter installed in the holders must be covered by the overhang of the cornice by at least a third, maximum by half of its own diameter.

Depending on the type of coating and the steepness of the structure, the size of this overhang ranges from 3 to 7 cm. The steeper the slopes, the greater eaves overhang, extending beyond the cornice board.

The gutters should be located below the line that conventionally continues the overhang, by about 2 cm. This is so that the snow mass sliding along the roof does not put pressure on the horizontal part of the drain and does not tear them off together with the holders. Please note that if for some technical reason the specified location of the hooks is not possible, a snow retention system must be installed on the eaves in front of the drain.

Rules for installing long holders

To install brackets with long mounting strips, it is necessary to determine the installation spacing, which should not be greater than the limit recommended by the system manufacturer. It is more often irrational to fasten them: extra costs without special need to strengthen the position of the drain gutter.

Having decided on the step, you should calculate the number of fasteners and mark the sheathing for installation of hooks. If they are fixed to the heels of the rafter legs, installed at a suitable distance from each other, then there is no need to mark anything.

After marking, fitting of the bracket is carried out, installed at the highest point, for the upcoming bending of its mounting strip. The element must be applied to the installation site and a bend point that meets the technological requirements must be determined. If necessary, the hook position should be adjusted taking into account the maximum deviations specified by the system manufacturer.

Search and definition empirically The first bend point gives us the opportunity to mark and bend the holders for the entire slope:

We lay the number of brackets required for arranging the slope in a row so that their conditional bottom and the top points of the planks are on the same line.
We calculate the angle of inclination required for the free flow of precipitation into the water intake riser. Let's assume that the length of the slope is 10 m, and the recommended slope is 3 mm/linear meter. This means that the bend point of the hook located on the opposite edge should be 3 cm lower.
We draw a fold line on the hooks laid in a row and number them.
We bend the holders one by one using a strip bender. We act carefully so as not to damage the protective coating when bending.

Having completed bending the brackets, we proceed to install them. We fasten with galvanized self-tapping screws with a regular head. Fixation is carried out at three points on the mounting plate. There are no significant differences in the process of attaching hooks of any length except that they are carried out at different stages of construction or repair.

The installation of the holders begins with the installation of the outer hooks, between which a lace or fishing line is stretched, indicating the line of the conditional bottom of the gutter. The ordinary elements located between them are installed according to the numbering carried out before bending. If deviations from the direction specified by the fishing line are detected, the bend is corrected.

Procedure for installing short hooks

Short holders are used primarily if routine roof repairs are carried out without replacement roofing or if during the construction of the roof the installation of the drainage system was simply forgotten.

Moreover, this perfect option for installation, due to the specifics of which, installation of long brackets can only be carried out on rafters under the sheathing.

True, owners of buildings with bitumen tile roofs, for example, have a way to use long holders and install them on the sheathing. To do this, elongated grooves are selected under the mounting strips on top of the sheathing before installation. Note that this option is possible if the recesses are not able to affect bearing capacity sheathing in the eaves area.

Designing the location and calculating the required number of short holders is carried out according to the rules common to all gutters. The installation process is different in that there is no stage preliminary preparation hooks for installation.

Briefly, the installation algorithm looks like this:

Calculation of the number of brackets, based on the material used in the manufacture of the gutter.
Marking the front board according to the steps recommended by the manufacturer.
Calculation of gutter slope. For example, the gutter length is 10 m, the slope recommended by the manufacturer is 2.5 mm. This means that the hook located on the side of the water intake funnel should be installed exactly 2.5 cm lower than the one located on the opposite side of the slope.
Attaching the outer brackets to the front board.
Connecting fixed holders with fishing line or string to mark the line of the bottom of the gutter. The string can be pulled in two or three rows to mark several key lines for increased accuracy of installation.
Installation of ordinary holders in accordance with the markings on the front board and with the “indications” of the laces.

IN installed holders The gutter is laid in a slightly bent state. First, its far side is inserted into the peculiar grooves of the hooks, then the near side snaps into place.

Installation of holders on plastic slate

To install drainage systems on roofs with plastic slate, a special type of holder is produced, which we have already discussed. This type of fastener is more complex than previous types in structural and technological terms. However, element manufacturers have tried to make the installation process and possible repairs as easy as possible later.

The procedure for installing holders on plastic slate is as follows:

We install plastic spacers that follow the shape of a convex wave of corrugated material. They are needed to attach the sheet to the outer lathing and to ensure rigidity of the roof along the eaves. If there is no sheathing, we place them on the rafters.
We mark the frontal board for installing hooks.
Install the outer holders without tightening the fasteners.
We adjust the position of the brackets relative to the vertical.
We move bottom part holder installed at the lowest point of the drainage branch relative to the upper part so that the conditional “bottom” of the hook is lower than the similar element on the opposite side by exactly the amount of the slope.
We fix both brackets to the front board and to the roof.
We stretch one or two rows of laces, connecting the outer hooks. These are guide lines for the installation of row holders.
We install ordinary brackets according to the markings and the line indicated by the lace.

Finally, we fix the gutter in the holders and, having installed a building level on it, check it again geometric parameters installations. The slope towards the water collection point must be observed, otherwise water will stagnate in the gutter. If significant deviations are detected, the height of the lower part of the hook can be adjusted.

Video demonstrating manual installation of long holders:

An interesting device for bending the legs of long hooks:

Attaching short plastic gutter holders:

We have analyzed the options and installation methods for the most popular types of holders. The basic requirements for their installation and fastening have been given, which must be adhered to when installing drains on all types of roofs. Compliance technological rules- guarantee of success in work and long service installed on durable drainage system holders.

Radiator heaters are usually placed under windows. Only sometimes the project provides for a different location. To fix the heaters, wall or floor mounts for heating radiator batteries are used. On this moment there are many types of them.

Selection and installation of fasteners

When choosing fixing elements, you should focus on the following points:

material from which radiators are made;
battery sizes;
wall material;
window dimensions, their number and location features;
room design project.

Important!
The instructions note that what heating device the heavier, the thicker the holder should be.
The materials of the radiator and fasteners must match each other.

Having assessed the above aspects, you will be able to choose the right type of holders and determine the required number.

Calculation of fasteners

When installing under windows, the following distances are maintained:

from the floors should be at least 8-12 cm;
about 3-5 cm to the walls;
to the window sills at least 6-10 cm.

About how many fasteners are needed for a heating radiator.

Their number depends on the length of the heating device.

When there are few sections - up to 10 pieces, 2 holders are placed at the top, and another one is mounted at the bottom.
If the battery consists of 10-14 elements, 3 fasteners are installed at the top and 2 at the bottom.
For each subsequent 4-7 sections of cast iron batteries and 10 analogues of aluminum and tubular batteries, add one support at the top and bottom with your own hands.

Marking for mounting holders

A very important question is how to mark the mounts for radiators.

The best option is when the heater is located exactly in the middle of the window. Based on this, find the center of the opening on the wall and draw a vertical line.
Then there are 2 options. If the wiring is bottom, draw a horizontal line marking the top edge of the battery. When installing radiators with side connections, it is important: In this case, set aside the horizontal line coming from the supply (upper) pipe.
Measure the spaces between the holders on the battery. Set them aside relative to the drawn lines.

Types of holders

The procedure and rules for installing batteries are independent of their type, only the type of holders changes.

Supports for radiators made of cast iron

Mounts for cast iron radiators heating systems are the thickest and heaviest, because must bear a lot of weight for years. These curved pins or flat hooks are produced separately or mounted on a steel strip in 2-3 pieces.

The products are not painted or a white (standard) coating is applied to them. You can choose a different color upon request.

This type of mounting is most common for cast iron radiators.

The photo shows a steel pin holder.

Pin holders made of cast iron.
Adjustable steel supports. They make it possible to change the gap between the wall and the radiator, while simultaneously aligning the battery horizontally and vertically.
Steel pin brackets.
Holders grouped on a metal strip.

Note!
Before purchasing, consider the dimensions of the supports.
They are produced for fastening sections of different depths.
In any case, the holder must provide a gap to the walls of at least 30-50 mm.

In addition to pin brackets for batteries, hooks are produced from cast iron. They are equipped with dowels. The product is mounted as follows: a hole is drilled into which a plastic dowel is driven. A holder with a thread on one side is screwed into it.

In addition to wall fixation, there is also floor installation of cast iron using legs. Their price depends on whether their height can be adjusted or not.

The upper arcs that secure the sections to the support also differ. They are made from steel wire or have the form of a chain of interconnected movable links. In any case, the radiators are fixed to the stop with bolts and arcs.

Fasteners for bimetallic and aluminum batteries

Mount for aluminum radiators and bimetal are similar to analogues for cast iron, but are made of thin metal.

The most popular corner universal holders are for both types of devices. They are equipped at the top and bottom with recesses for the collector. Thanks to this, they can be mounted on both the left and right.

Legs for bimetal and aluminum are not produced. But they produce racks that allow for floor installation of batteries. First, such a support is attached to the floor, then the radiator is placed and attached to it.

The use of floor stands is optimal when the walls cannot support the additional weight. For example, it is difficult to attach radiators to sandwich panels, glass, and plasterboard.

Steel instrument supports

There are two types of such devices: panel and tubular analogues.

They need different types fasteners

TO back walls special brackets are welded onto panel batteries. With their help, devices are hung on brackets. This mount is for steel radiators heating system has a special shape designed to fit the brackets.

Note!
When installing panel devices, you should carefully monitor the vertical placement of the brackets, because 4-6 staples should fit exactly on the hooks.
It is necessary that the wall is absolutely smooth and even.

Since the weight of the radiator is small, it will be enough to fix it on the brackets from above. You can put supports from below, they will give it a horizontal direction. They cling to the brackets with hooks and only rest against the wall.
For greater reliability, the part of the mount for steel radiators facing the wall is expanded.

The table below shows the dimensions of the described fasteners.

There are also special strips for simplified installation. These are metal strips with plastic fasteners at the bottom and top. With this method of fixation, brackets on the radiator are not needed. The strips are screwed to the wall, a battery is inserted into them, held by plastic hooks.

The mounting bracket for the tubular heating radiator is similar to the product for the sectional analogue.

It also consists of hooks, only of a different size, which are equipped with plastic linings.

Manufacturers also produce a special SMB holder that has grips for tubes.
This steel strip with plastic clamps and a support-shelf for the battery at the bottom.
Such fasteners can be used when the weight of a radiator filled with coolant is no more than 100 kg.
Installing the battery here is extremely simple. Install the device on the support, bring its top to the clamps. Those, grasping the nearest tube, snap into place.

There is also a second model for simplified installation - the SVD holder. It consists of two nodes. The first is fixed on the wall, the second on the battery. When installing the device, they are mated and connected with a steel loop.

Floor fixation of such batteries can occur using tubular stops, welded at the factory, or racks with hooks. The device is hung on them, and the stand itself for attaching the radiator is fixed to the floor.

Conclusion

There are quite a lot of types of fastenings. They can be either wall-mounted or floor-mounted. Standard models are reliable, however, they are more difficult to install. Devices and strips for simplified installation save labor and time, but their cost is higher.

The video in this article contains visual information.

Mounted is a design that significantly transforms front part buildings. In addition, the NVF promotes ventilation of the building, insulates it and prevents the formation of moisture. Facade design consists of facing materials, air gap, insulation and metal frame, or subsystems.

Among the advantages of illegal armed groups it is worth noting:

noise and sound insulation;
hiding wall defects;
high payback and efficiency (due to insulation it reduces the energy consumption of the building);
prevents the formation of mold, dampness and fungal formations on the wall surface;
stylish design.

Initially, curtain facades were used mainly in the construction of office buildings and shopping centers, but in Lately The construction of residential complexes using this is gaining popularity. The leading place among the materials used for cladding is porcelain stoneware.

In order to curtain façade served for a long time, had an aesthetic appearance, was functional and economical, you need to be able to correctly select and calculate materials for its installation.

How to choose materials for suspended ventilated facades?

In order to select materials for hanging ventilated structures and tools, you need to understand the design of the NVF.

The load-bearing structure is the wall of the building. The facade consists of the following elements:

insulation;
air gap;
facing materials;
vertical guide;
supporting bracket;
spherical washer;
thermal insulating gasket under the bracket;
anchor dowel;
rivets;
dowel for attaching insulation;
clamp;
waterproof membrane.

Anchor

Attaching the brackets load-bearing structure carried out using anchors. The anchor is a nylon dowel with a side and a steel expansion screw with a press washer. In order to choose the right element, you need to determine the load-bearing capacity of the wall by testing the anchors. Based on the results of the technical assessment by the FGU FCS, a technical certificate is issued - anchors that do not have it cannot be used in construction.

The use of anchors whose screws have an electrozinc coating is prohibited in Russia, because the zinc layer wears off due to long-term use.

Thermal insulation elements

Can only be used as insulation non-flammable materials. In addition, the insulation must be resistant to moisture penetration and have high density and don't sag. Just like the anchor, the insulation must have a technical certificate. The thickness is determined individually by the characteristics of the building. The thermal insulation element is attached to the wall through installed brackets using disc dowels. The disc dowel should be made of a plastic or nylon dowel with a steel shank nail.

When installing insulation, an air gap must be left, the width of which usually does not exceed 40 mm. The higher the thermal conductivity coefficient, the wider the thickness of the insulation layer must be to achieve the required level of resistance to thermal transfer. Other important coefficients are the coefficients of vapor permeability and air permeability.

Facing

The cladding must have maintenance. The facing material depends on the type of supporting structure.

The following is used as cladding:

porcelain stoneware;
aluminum and composite materials;
siding;
marble and stone tiles;
polyalpan.

Each facing material has its own unique properties and advantages, an optimal price category, as well as the ability to implement bold architectural projects.

Fasteners

Installation of the brackets to the wall is carried out using anchor dowels with a side and an expansion screw, which is coated with a thermal diffusion solution. This coating protects the anchor from corrosion, because aluminum and steel react upon contact, which provokes corrosion. This is especially important when using aluminum alloy trim.

Depending on the mounting of guide profiles and brackets, different materials are used:

for aluminum cladding these are aluminum and stainless steel. The core is made of stainless steel and the sleeve is made of aluminum. Also choose the side of the blind rivet, which does not exceed 11-14 mm;
If facade system made of zinc or stainless steel, the blind rivets and sleeve are also made of stainless steel.

Substructure elements:

brackets;
extension cords;
guide profiles;
clasps.

Profiles can be produced:

made of aluminum;
galvanized steel;
of stainless steel.

The material and type of profile is selected depending on the cladding:

substructure with a horizontal profile is suitable for installation of linear panels and corrugated sheets;
a substructure with a vertical profile is mounted to linear panels, siding, facade cassettes, porcelain tiles and corrugated sheets;
The cross type of profiles is suitable for porcelain stoneware and façade cassettes.

Material calculation

Before selecting and calculating ventilated hanging structures it is necessary to conduct a study of the object. The anchor dowel is tested and the building is photographed to identify its actual size and type of load-bearing wall.

As a result of the study, the following results should be obtained:

type, thickness, as well as a plan for location and fastening of thermal insulation;
junction nodes;
structure of the supporting structure;
Thermal analysis of the object and façade bracket.

As a result of thermal engineering analysis, the size of thermal energy savings resulting from the installation of the facade and the thickness of the insulation are calculated.

The size of the disc dowels for fastening the panels is recommended by the manufacturer, but the length can be determined by the formula, where the thickness of the thermal insulation must be added to the minimum depth to which the disc dowel is attached to the structure. The length of the bracket depends on the thickness of the thermal insulation or the outer edge of the lined facade.

Number of brackets per 1 square meter façade is calculated depending on:

cladding mass in kN/m2;
wind load in kN/m2;
ultimate load of brackets in kN;
critically permissible load anchor dowel at the base of the system in kN.

It is a mistake to calculate the amount of materials based on the area of the front part of the building facade and the quantity facing material, as well as the prices of substructures designed for 1 sq. m, excluding architectural details, configurations of window openings and doors.

The choice of the width of the façade guide is determined by the height of the floors, the number of windows and doorways, transitions between them, as well as the type of their configuration.

It is recommended to leave gaps between the two supporting guides, the width of which does not exceed 8-10 mm. This is due to the temperature difference in thermal expansion of the cladding materials and the supporting structure, as well as the impact external environment. The length between the horizontal facade guides must be a multiple of the width of the cladding.

Curtain facade made of natural stone (video)

How to select adjacent nodes?

The design of the junction points depends on the type of cladding and insulation. It is better to use standard nodes.

Nodes must be selected depending on the purpose and place of application:

Facade dowel.
Lightning rods.
Upper connection to the window opening.
Bottom connection to the window opening.
Adjacency external corner façade design.
Facade profile.
Adjacent to the window opening from the side.
Adjacent to the ground floor.
Adjacent to the parapet space.
Vertical section of the structure.
Horizontal section of façade parts.
Horizontal section of adjacent parts of the facade.
Connection to remote elements: lamps, video cameras, lamps.

Calculation of materials for the subsystem

The calculation of attachments is made depending on the material from which the subsystem is made. Painted galvanized steel, for example, has more high price than unpainted. The cheapest is unpainted, next on the list is painted, and the most quality material is stainless steel.

Conclusion

In order to correctly calculate and select materials, you need to understand their types and compatibility with each other. It is also necessary to carry out calculations adjusted for architectural features buildings, openings and corners existing in it, types of fastenings and insulation, humidity, wind strength and average temperature of the area. The manufacturer and the cost of the product play an important role.