Planting potatoes under straw in the garden without hassle. Growing Potatoes Under Straw: An Effective and Easy Planting Method. What is better to choose for covering beds?

Nowadays, modern potato harvests are not very pleasing to gardeners, and the reason for this is both bad weather and the invasion Colorado potato beetles, and infertile soil. Therefore, most enthusiasts are not lazy to experiment and look for more profitable technologies for growing the miracle root crop. Today, many are talking about the new “old” method planting potatoes under straw, which was known even before the abolition of serfdom.

Among the advantages of the method:

• facilitating labor associated with planting, caring for and harvesting crops. Digging up the site, hilling, loosening, watering, applying fertilizers - all this remains in the past;
• high productivity, because thanks to the decomposition of straw and the development beneficial organisms, soil fertility is increasing every year. In addition, under a thick layer of “fur coat” the temperature does not rise above +20 O C, and the ground remains moist long time even in the heat, which has a beneficial effect on tuber formation;
• protection of young plants from insidious spring frosts, especially when planting early;
• Potatoes under mulch feel great - they are not afraid of the Colorado potato beetle, late blight and are not bothered by weeds.

Of course, there are some disadvantages to the method of growing potatoes under straw. Firstly, mice like to live in straw, and planting them around the perimeter of the area will help repel them. Blackroot. Secondly, you will have to spend money on buying straw or cutting the hay yourself. One hundred square meters will require an average of 20-30 cubic meters of straw. Well, in order to stock up on hay, you will have to mow an area 10 times larger than the plot itself.

We create all the conditions

“Of course, growing potatoes in straw is not an innovative method at all; it is not suitable for very large plots. However, for amateur vegetable growers and summer residents who adhere to natural farming, this is an excellent alternative to any other ineffective technology.”

You need to understand that you can count on a good harvest only if the soil is sufficiently loose. If, on the contrary, the earth is like stone, you can’t hope for high returns. In addition, the soil should be relatively moist at the time of planting to encourage tuber growth. It is best to plant after rain, when the soil stops sticking to the shovel. In dry weather, you can water the area yourself so as not to be delayed in planting potatoes.

When using this method, it is necessary to monitor the density of the covering material. The fact is that after a certain time, straw or hay “sags” to almost half its original thickness. At the same time, under a too thick layer the soil will warm up for a long time, which will slow down the germination of tubers, and under a thin layer it will dry out quickly. Dense, compacted straw will not allow sprouts to come out, and those that do break through will be frail and thin.

We follow technology

Experienced vegetable growers recommend sowing the designated area for potatoes in the fall with green manure, for example, phacelia, mustard. Before frost, mow the overgrown green mass and incorporate it into the soil. Thanks to these actions, the soil will acquire the necessary lushness and looseness. The process of planting potatoes will not take much time:

1. In the spring we don’t dig the area, we only loosen it upper layer flat cutter Fokina;
2. Using the same tool, we make shallow grooves (about 5 cm) along a stretched rope with a distance of 70 cm between them. There are summer residents who skip this type of work and simply place the potatoes on clean ground, then sprinkling it with black soil;
3. We place the sprouted potato tubers in the furrows at intervals of 40 cm and sprinkle them with soil;
4. distribute the straw evenly over the entire area in a layer of 20 cm, trying not to leave “bald patches” and not to lay it too thickly over the planted tubers;
5. As soon as the tops rise well, lay out a fresh layer of straw 20 cm thick. This technique replaces labor-intensive hilling, only you need to place the straw in ridges closer to the bushes so that they are more stable and do not fall apart during growth;
6. We make a border of earth around the perimeter of the site so that a stray wind does not dishevel the “fur coat.” For the same purpose, the straw can be pressed down with long boards or branches.

Fans of experimentation advise covering the area with peat at least 10 cm before planting potatoes. Place the tubers in small depressions on the resulting bedding and then cover it with straw in two stages. According to experts, this method is more effective and productive.

Let's start cleaning

The so-called “digging” of potatoes is best done on a fine, clear day. Using a rake, carefully remove the straw to the side: next year it can be used again. Further steps involve collecting clean, large potatoes in buckets or bags. Most of The tubers are in a half-buried position, but they are easy to reach with your hands or pry with a pitchfork.

A few tubers lie right on the surface of the soil, so harvesting is a real pleasure. On average, each bush will yield about 12-17 potatoes weighing from 50 to 300 g. Potatoes under straw are smooth, tasty and environmentally friendly. By the way, if the remaining tubers in the ground are not dug up and covered again with a straw “coat,” they will be perfectly preserved until spring. But in the spring, potatoes must be dug up so that they do not rot.

In small areas there is no need to dig beds for potatoes. You can do without land at all. There are alternative planting methods that have been tested by time and by summer residents - under hay, straw or cardboard.

Pros and cons of growing potatoes under hay and straw

Exists alternative way growing potatoes - under mulch, without digging up the area. Compared to the traditional one, it has advantages:

• saving time;
• simplified planting and harvesting process;
• slow weed growth;
• plantings are protected from the Colorado potato beetle;
• retains moisture well;
• environmental friendliness of the shelter.

There are also disadvantages:

• costs for covering material;
• accessibility of tubers to pests (rodents, slugs).

The yield from tubers planted under mulch is no less than with the traditional planting method

To protect the site, gardeners install repellers and use chemicals(Slug Eater, Thunderstorm, Ferramol).

From traditional methods fight against slugs - sprinkle crushed eggshells between rows. It is recommended to plant potatoes as far as possible from cabbage.

What is better to choose for covering beds?

You can mulch potatoes with different materials, the costs for them will be approximately the same. A covering layer of hay/straw protects the planting from exposure external environment all season.

Comparative characteristics of hay and straw - table

To obtain the same layer of cover, you need more straw than hay.

You can grow forbs for mowing yourself:

1. Divide the area into two parts.
2. In the first year, plant a mixture of oats, vetch and peas on one half, and potatoes in the other in the usual way.
3. Dig up the tubers and leave the crops until winter. There is no need to dig up the soil.
4. In the spring, plant potatoes in an area with fallen straw without digging: make shallow holes, lay the tubers and sprinkle with a 4-5 cm layer of soil.
5. Where the crop was harvested last year, plant a mixture of vetch, peas and oats to make straw for next year.

Thanks to this crop rotation, the yield increases noticeably - with less time spent cultivating the plot.

Plantings of vetch, oats and peas left before winter will become an excellent fertilizer for potatoes next year.

Tuber preparation

Before planting potatoes, fertilizers are added to the soil for digging. For those who prefer organic matter, you can prepare humus in the fall: turn the layer of grass over so that the roots are on the surface. Over the winter it will rot and fertilize the soil.

The potatoes are taken out of storage, sorted, diseased and damaged tubers are removed, heated for 3 days at a temperature of +22°C and laid out in the light, turning over periodically. You can plant it when strong shoots have formed.

Before planting, potatoes need to be germinated and greened in the sun.

How to plant potatoes under mulch

Traditionally, planting dates depend on the climate of the region: when the soil warms up to +10°C. Under the hay/straw, a 10 cm reserve is not needed - the tubers are placed on moist, slightly loosened soil.

Planting under hay or straw

Tubers on the surface of the soil are more illuminated by the sun, so you need a shelter of at least 50 cm of hay, otherwise they will turn green.

Video: harvesting potatoes grown under hay

Planting in the ground followed by mulching

How to plant potatoes in the ground under hay/straw:

The remaining straw can be used next year.

Cardboard as a replacement for mulch

When growing potatoes, enterprising gardeners learned to use cardboard:

Harvesting is not labor-intensive: you just need to rake the cardboard and collect the tubers. You can even do without a fork and shovel. Depending on weather conditions, about 15 tubers weighing from 50 to 300 g are formed on each bush.

The advantage of this method of growing potatoes is that the soil becomes loose and fertilized. The disadvantage is the time and effort required to work with cardboard.

Growing potatoes in a bucket - is it a worthy alternative?

An experiment once carried out on growing potatoes in a bucket under hay was successful - the harvest was harvested, although very small, for one time. But such plantings are also practiced.

How to do:

The yield of potatoes grown in a bucket will be slightly higher, but not in straw, but in soil. For those who save space on their site or don’t have it at all - this convenient way landings.

Comparison of potato yield under mulch and grown in the ground - video

The experience of many gardeners shows that high yield you can achieve a little potato in a non-standard way, growing tubers under hay/straw. It's simple and effective solution for those who don’t want to spend the whole summer in the garden, pulling out weeds and hilling the beds.

Planting potatoes under hay or straw - a long time ago forgotten technology cultivation, which is being revived today. There are many conflicting reviews about this method, but most of them are positive. Vegetable growers, who have been receiving good harvests for several years without much hassle, generously share their experience.

The method fits well with the concept of “ natural farming” and corresponds to one of his principles - not to dig the soil. When planting under hay and straw, you do not need to: dig, fertilize, weed, or water. And the hilling process is fundamentally different from the traditional one.

Potato harvest grown under straw

The essence of the method is that potatoes are laid out on the surface of the ground and covered with straw or hay on top. Many have already become convinced of the benefits of mulch, and here it can be seen in full. With a layer of 15–20 cm, weeds do not break through the mulch, moisture is retained in the soil, temperature fluctuations are minimized, and the bottom layer is recycled earthworms, potatoes receive valuable nutrition - humus. Moreover, when planted even on virgin soil, turf and dense soil turn, according to gardeners, into fluff.

Video: potatoes grown on virgin soil

Eat different ways plantings under straw, they are being improved and supplemented useful nuances. If you are afraid of disastrous results, then arrange an experimental bed under straw and plant the rest of the potatoes traditional way: into the ground, with hilling, watering and fertilizing. In the fall, compare the results and labor costs, draw conclusions for yourself.

How to plant potatoes under straw

First of all, you need to find a lot of straw or hay. Experienced farmers offer several options:

Dry grass (hay) can be borrowed from nature

Landing dates and location selection

IN middle lane Potato planting begins in mid-May. There is an opinion that hay can be planted 1–2 weeks earlier, but at the beginning of May the ground is still cold. It turns out that the potatoes are laid out on cold soil and covered with a thick layer of straw. The tubers end up in a refrigerator and take a long time to germinate. Therefore, it is better to plant at normal times. The sprouts will take a long time to emerge, their path through the dry stems will be tortuous, but then they will overtake the potatoes that are planted in the ground.

Choose a place the same as for a regular potato field - well lit and warmed by the sun. If you plant it under a fence or among trees, and then compare it with a harvest collected in a sunny area, then, of course, the experiment will be a failure.

Video: how not to plant potatoes - detailed instructions

Preparation of planting material and step-by-step process

Within a week in the dark and humid environment, the sprouts will turn white and grow roots.

For the first planting under straw, the worst tubers are often taken, which are a pity to throw away. In most cases in the fall, surprised good harvest, vegetable growers regret that they did not plant the seeds of the best varieties using this technology.

Suitable for growing under straw:

In any case, the layer under the tubers should be moist. The harvest will be richer if you make a substrate of humus, peat, litter from a chicken coop, half-rotted leaves, compost, add ash, deoxidize the soil dolomite flour. Follow the planting pattern the same as for traditional cultivation: between rows - 70–100 cm, in a row - 30–40 cm. If you are planting only two rows, for example in a garden bed, the row spacing can be reduced to 50 cm and the tubers can be arranged in a checkerboard pattern. Cover with a layer of straw or hay on top. To begin with, its thickness can be small - 5–10 cm, so that seedlings appear faster, but the optimal layer that does not allow weeds to germinate is 20 cm.

Video: one of the options for planting under straw is humus on top of tubers

If you place the tubers sprouts down, you will create a hilling effect. The sprouts, going around the seed potatoes, will grow longer and produce more yield.

Growing and care

Growing under straw also has disadvantages. Care mainly consists of their elimination. So, a large accumulation of hay attracts slugs, mice and rats. To combat rodents, install ultrasonic repellers around the perimeter of the straw field. Use the same products against slugs as in any area:

Do not plant potatoes next to cabbage, which is very attractive to slugs.

The love of beer does not bring pests any good

Throughout cultivation, especially at the beginning of germination, monitor the moisture in the lower layer. In regions with damp summers, the straw must be gently shaken (beaten) so that it does not rot from high humidity and was ventilated. In hot climates, on the contrary, you will have to water, otherwise earthworms will not want to make their way through the dry soil to the mulch and process it. The potatoes will dry out.

Emerging sprouts need to be helped, but only when you clearly see bumps in the straw - potatoes sticking out from under the dry grass. If you rake the straw at random, the seedlings can be broken.

Video: first shoots under straw

The only labor-intensive technique that needs to be performed when growing using this technology is hilling, that is, adding straw, hay or cut grass as the tops grow. The mulch level can be increased to 50 cm. Fan hilling significantly increases the yield. When the shoots rise 10–15 cm above the straw, spread the stems in different directions and place mulch between them.

Video: correct fan hilling

You will also have to fight wireworms, Colorado potato beetles and diseases. According to gardeners, there are fewer Colorado potato beetles on straw than on a regular field. Diseases also do not have time to accumulate, because potatoes are grown under one straw for no more than two years. Interestingly, the harvest in the second year is greater than in the first. Apparently, this is explained by the fact that part of the mulch has already turned into humus, the soil structure has improved, and gardeners have taken into account the mistakes of the first year of cultivation.

Planting in a bucket under straw

The method is good only as an experiment or in the case when there is no plot of land, but you want to grow potatoes, for example, on a balcony. Another plus is very early young potatoes, because a bucket can be kept in a greenhouse or at home and taken outside only on warm days. However, the yield with this method is several times lower than when grown on the site in the traditional way.

It is assumed: the higher the bucket, the more potatoes will grow

First, prepare the container. Drill drainage holes in the bottom of the bucket and add a layer of expanded clay (3–4 cm) to the bottom. These measures will prevent stagnation of water, otherwise the roots and potatoes will rot. Place a fertile cushion on top of the drainage - 5–7 cm of damp soil, humus or compost. Now put 1-2 sprouted tubers and cover with a 5-10 cm layer of straw. As the stems grow, add straw until the bucket is filled to the brim. Periodically check the moisture content under the mulch and water if necessary. With this method, it is not clear how the straw will be processed into food available for potatoes. All hope is for the beneficial bacteria that got into the bucket and will survive in it. Therefore, the harvest grows very modest.

Instead of a bucket, you can use a box.

Video: potatoes in anything

Which is better: hay or straw?

Hay is meadow grass, mowed green before ripening and dried. Straw is what remains after threshing cereals and legumes, that is, part of the plants that have completed their cycle, without leaves, inflorescences, or seeds. The latter is an advantage over hay when considering these materials as mulch. Hay can contain weed seeds, which is a problem for gardeners. Although weeds that grow through mulch are easily pulled out, their roots are shallow. In addition, this is additional organic matter that can be placed under potatoes.

There's more in the hay nutrients, it is looser, lighter, and worms and bacteria will process it faster and more readily into humus. Straw is heavier and denser, less ventilated. Therefore, in dry weather, the soil under the straw will remain moist longer, and the potatoes under the hay will have to be watered. To create a layer of equal thickness, you need more straw than hay.

Video: comparison of potato yields without mulch and under mulch from different materials

During the summer, mulch is added, so most often a layer of a mixture of fallen leaves, straw, hay, weeds, and tops is formed on the potatoes. And this is good, because potatoes receive comprehensive protection (from cold, drought, dampness), as well as a varied diet. It is not recommended to put cabbage leaves, they begin to rot and infect all the mulch and potatoes with rot spores. Dry any other greens, especially weeds, first or lay them on top in a thin layer with their roots in the sun.

You don't need a pitchfork or shovel to harvest the crop; you just need to rake the mulch with your hands. If, when planting, you sprinkled the tubers with earth or humus, you will have to dig up. The big advantage of this method is that it allows you to harvest young potatoes during the summer. You can carefully rake the straw, pick the largest tubers without damaging the bush, and cover it again. The plant will continue to grow and develop.

Video: potato harvest grown under hay

Method requires large quantity mulch, which needs to be added all summer, so it’s difficult to call him lazy. In addition, you will have to fight rodents and pests, and water if necessary. But the method is justified by a richer and healthier harvest with much less labor. The difference between growing under hay and straw is noticeable only at the first stage. It is more difficult for sprouts to break through heavier and denser straw. Subsequently, a mixture of different materials(hay, straw, leaves, weeds). Each has its own advantages and compensates for the disadvantages of others.

There are many ways to grow potatoes on a plot. But, characteristically, traditional methods require significant effort from summer residents: before planting, the plot must be dug up and fed, the planted potatoes must be constantly watered and weeded, moreover, the Colorado potato beetle will not be long in coming - it will soon begin to eat the foliage of the plants. In short, you have to constantly work, and it’s not a fact that it will bring really good results.

But there is an easier way to significantly simplify the care process - you can grow potatoes in straw. It is this technology that will be discussed in today’s article.

Modern folk craftsmen grow potatoes in all kinds of ways - in pots, in bags and piles, in the form of ridges, etc. But it is straw and hay (in other words, mulch) that gain last years increasingly popular because they have significant advantages over the traditional method of growing crops.

Straw is an excellent material for growing potatoes

1. Straw is environmentally friendly natural material, which, subject to a certain proportion - 5:1 - can replace manure.
2. Thanks to the use of straw, planting, caring for and harvesting potatoes is greatly simplified. This is explained by the fact that the tubers do not need to be cleared of soil, and collecting them is much easier than with regular digging.
3. Straw will play the role of a mulch layer that will protect the crop from pests (in particular, the Colorado potato beetle) and weeds.
4. When growing, digging as such is not required at all, nor is any other work with a shovel.
5. With the onset of autumn, you will receive not only a clean, but also a well-fertilized area (rotten straw will serve as top dressing).
6. Harvesting can be done with bare hands, special effort it won't require it.
7. There is no need to loosen or hill up the area - instead, just sprinkle required quantity straw.
8. Finally, from one planted bucket of potatoes in the fall you can get ten buckets of fruit.

As you can see, this growing technology is definitely worth learning, because it is simpler than other known methods.

Classic way

In this case, work begins immediately after the autumn harvest. We are talking about preparatory activities.

Stage one. Preparing the soil for winter

Selected area for planting potatoes

IN classical way the selected area does not need to be dug up and cleaned, even if it is “virgin land” covered with wheatgrass and turf. Simply turn the grass over with a shovel so that the roots end up on top and the grass itself is closer to the ground. Behind winter period the green mass will rot and fertilize the soil for subsequent planting.

Note! It is recommended to plant the selected area with green manure plants in the fall. They not only displace weeds, but also enrich the soil with phosphorus, nitrogen and useful microelements.

The best potato predecessors include:

• mustard;
• alfalfa;
• phacelia;
• oats;
• rye.

White mustard - green manure

You can choose two crops at once (for example, phacelia and oats) and sow them in August in the area where potatoes will be planted.

Phacelia is one of the best green manures

In the spring there will be no weeds there, and the area itself will be well fertilized. Be sure to remove weeds before sowing green manure plants, and don’t forget about digging up the soil.

Stage two. Preparing planting material

Use potatoes the size of egg. As for planting dates, they depend on the specific region, although the average for the country is the second half of May. To harvest earlier, you can germinate seed tubers in April.

Step 1. Take wooden box with low walls.

Step 2. Place the potatoes in the box so that they touch each other.

Step 3. Place them in a well-lit room with natural ventilation. It is important that the temperature there is within 10-15°C.

Step 4. After some time, when strong sprouts form on the tubers, the potatoes will be ready to be transplanted into open soil.

Note! If desired, you can shift the harvest time by planting some of the tubers without germination in another area.

Stage three. Preparing the straw

Very often, fresh or dried grass is used instead of straw. The results of such experiments are not bad, but it is still better to give preference to hay/straw, since grass fertilizes the soil less and does not provide adequate protection.

It is not at all necessary to use fresh, high-quality straw - it may well be old. Moreover, the used straw can be used for the next planting. To this end, after harvesting the potatoes, dry what is left of it (not rotten) and place it in a dry place until next year.

Stage four. Planting potatoes

The landing procedure should look something like this.

Table. Planting potatoes

Steps, no.	Description	Photo
Step 1	First, moisten an undug, level piece of soil.
Step 2	Place the tubers in rows on the surface, following the same step as with traditional growing technology (about 30 centimeters). The distance between rows should be 70 centimeters.
Step 3	Scatter 1 tbsp around each potato. spoon wood ash- this way the plants will not experience a lack of potassium.
Step 4	Cover the tubers with mulch (hay or straw) with a layer 25-30 centimeters thick. It is important that where the tubers are located, the layer is thicker than between them.

Actually, that's all. Weeds will not break through such a layer of straw, moisture evaporation will be excluded, and fruit formation will begin in ideal conditions for potatoes.

Stage five. Further care

When the shoots grow to 15-20 centimeters, create a small straw mound around them. This simple action will replace the hilling procedure, because the tubers will form in the straw above the ground. Try not to expose the tubers to direct sunlight, otherwise they will simply turn green.

Also, do not forget about soil moisture - it should be permanent and uniform. Only then will the tubers turn out beautiful and correct form. Continue adding straw as it develops.

Potatoes may crack if for a long time there will be no rain. If so, this is a clear indication of moisture deficiency. When watering, try not to get on the stems and foliage - direct the stream exclusively to the roots. If everything is done correctly, you will be able to taste new potatoes 12 weeks after planting. This time is often enough for the tubers to develop to a decent size.

As for harvesting, the optimal time for this comes when the tops begin to fade.

Disadvantages of the method

Of course, there are some shortcomings here, so for the sake of fairness, let’s consider them too.

1. If the potato plot is large, it may be difficult to find enough straw.
2. Where the mulch layer is thin, the potatoes may turn green.
3. Straw can harbor rodents that will chew on tubers, while hay can harbor slugs.

However, the advantages are so obvious that they more than offset all these disadvantages.

Alternative method: a combination of natural and traditional agricultural technology

Here it is also advisable to germinate the potatoes so that harvesting can begin earlier. The area chosen for planting does not need to be dug up first.

Step 1. Using a hoe, mark potato furrows in the area previously leveled with a rake.

Step 2. Using a shovel or the same hoe, make holes six to seven centimeters deep with the same step as in the previous method.

Step 3. Lay out the potatoes. Cover the holes with a thin layer of soil.

Cover the holes with soil

Step 4. Cover the entire area with a 25- or 30-centimeter layer of straw. This completes the landing procedure.

Note! Plant sprouted tubers very carefully so as not to damage the sprouts. In addition, the sprouts should be directed upward after planting.

As many summer residents note, under such conditions, potatoes are not susceptible to attacks by the Colorado potato beetle. There is either very little of the latter or none at all. If there are few larvae and beetles, you can collect it by hand without resorting to the use of fungicides.

Using minimal straw

If there is really very little straw, then when digging holes you can parallelly form a ridge 20 centimeters wide and 10 centimeters high.

Potatoes in straw - photo

Thanks to this ridge, the tubers:

• will not remain on the surface even after heavy rain;
• will not start to turn green if there is not enough straw.

Moreover, in this case you will need much less mulch.

Next, after filling the holes, pour dry straw between the ridges. Typically, the layer of mulch can be minimal - it will suppress weeds and retain moisture. Yes, the most powerful weeds will still be able to break through, but there will be few of them, so you can easily get rid of them. Subsequently add straw, gradually thickening the layer. In principle, there is nothing more to do here until the fall.

Cardboard and straw

Another interesting way of growing.

First prepare:

• thick cardboard (it is advisable to use boxes from household appliances);
• straw;
• Actually, potatoes.

The essence of the method is as follows: the cardboard is laid on the selected area of ​​​​the ground with an overlap (there should be no gaps through which a weed can break through). Using a knife, X-shaped cuts are made on the cardboard, the distance between which should be 25-30 centimeters in all directions. The tubers are placed in the cuts, after which the entire area is still covered with a layer of straw.

Features of harvesting

Harvesting potatoes grown using one of the methods described above is a pleasure. Even dense clay soil, which has been under mulch for a whole season, becomes loose and pliable.

First, carefully remove the straw with a rake, then proceed directly to collecting the potatoes in buckets/bags. Many of the tubers will be half-buried, but you can easily get them out with your hands, which means you won’t need a shovel or pitchfork. As practice shows, each bush brings from 12 to 17 potatoes, the weight of which ranges from 50-300 grams. The fruits themselves are tasty, smooth and, most importantly, environmentally friendly, so you can sell them profitably, because city residents especially value large and unsprayed potatoes.

As a result, we note that the tubers remaining in the soil do not need to be dug up, but covered back with mulch - this way they will be preserved until next spring. However, dig them up in the spring to prevent them from rotting.

Potatoes under straw - the best result

Video - Potatoes in straw

Preface

Planting potatoes under straw and hay has already been used by gardeners more than a century. Despite this, many are wary of this growing method and prefer traditional planting in open ground. Believe me, if you try this method at least once, your doubts will completely dissipate.

Preparatory work for the next planting begins not in the spring, but in the fall with the selection of a suitable site. Suitable beds where rye, oats, alfalfa, mustard, and phacelia were previously grown. Next, the ground is cleared of weeds and carefully dug up. Now it's time to cover it with a thick layer of hay. Laying mulch in the fall helps prevent the formation of weeds, which grow with renewed vigor in the spring. Hay (straw) retains moisture and heat, creating a favorable environment for the life of earthworms.

Potatoes under the hay

The presence of earthworms in the area is a sign of good soil. Thanks to numerous moves and constant digging of the soil, these worms maintain the necessary balance of moisture, fresh air and nutrients, and make the soil light and porous. Earthworm excrement (coprolites) is an important basis for the formation of humus. According to experts, coprolites are considered more valuable than manure and humus of livestock.

in spring old layer We remove last year's hay. There is no need to dig up the ground again; carefully level it with a garden rake and lay a new layer of hay. Many people place potatoes directly under the straw (hay). However, if you decide to plant a root crop under hay that has been mowed in advance, then this option will not be the most successful, since the crop will begin to rot, just like the weeds. Therefore, first make furrows, placing them at a comfortable distance from each other, in the row spacing - 60-70 cm, and in the row itself - 40-50 cm. These numbers may be higher, but not smaller. A cramped growing space is guaranteed to result in unsatisfactory size and number of tubers per plant.

Planting potato tubers

Potatoes for sprouting should have eyes 0.5-1 cm. We place such tubers in furrows, lightly sprinkle them with soil and cover them with straw on top. Many experts advise not to sprinkle the root crop with soil, but to immediately cover it with straw. Both options have the right to life; here you should be guided by the situation. If the soil is moist and heavy, cover the top of the tubers only with mulch, and if it is dry with admixtures of sand and clay, lightly sprinkle the potatoes with soil for germination. The total thickness of the mulch layer should be 20-25 cm. As the seedlings grow, the layer will settle and will need to be added.

You shouldn’t constantly look under the hay and check the condition of the potatoes, this is unnecessary. The shoots will break through on their own. If the mulch layer is too high, you can push some hay aside to give the seedlings a boost. It is difficult for weeds to get through such a “coat”; moisture is retained in the soil for a long time, while the earth has time to warm up and also accumulates heat, and constant looseness ensures air flow directly to the root system. Thus, when growing potatoes under hay, you free yourself from weeding and constant watering beds.

After deciding on hay, many people have a question about where to get it. If you own large crops, then this problem should not bother you. Just mow the dry stalks of cereals - you get straw, cut the grass, dry it in the sun, and you will have hay. However, if you own small areas, mulch can be purchased in bulk, and alternative option highlight small area for sowing green manures (green manures).

Potato tubers under straw

When purchasing, it is not necessary to purchase straw and hay highest quality. For such purposes, old stocks are quite suitable, which after harvesting can not be thrown away, but used for planting next year. The main thing is that the mulch must be dry, like the soil itself on which you will lay it. If there has been heavy or even drizzling rain, the procedure should be postponed until the soil is completely dry and warm. The mulch layer retains even a small amount of moisture, which does not evaporate for a long time, creating a favorable environment for the development of fungus, which leads to slow rotting of the straw and root system of nightshades.

You won't need much mulch for growing. However, you should not save money; cover the potatoes well; if the layer is thin, the tubers may begin to turn green. It is also better not to experiment with high embankments. The earth will dry out quickly and will not warm up well sun rays and allow a small amount of air to reach the roots. Because of this, the sprouts grow slower and break out. To prevent the mulch layer from being blown away by strong gusts of wind, we recommend sprinkling it with a small amount of soil.

In any case, the hay dissipates and decomposes over time, but if you add it on time and take all the necessary measures, the percentage of loss will be minimal. By autumn, the mulch layer will settle, making the process of harvesting the potato crop easier.

When growing potatoes in the ground, there is a high probability of tuber damage dangerous pest- Colorado potato beetle. According to the observations of gardeners, when using hay and straw, the presence of this beetle on the site is reduced to almost zero, and there are explanations for this. The mulch layer with which you cover the soil in the fall prevents beetles from penetrating and overwintering in the soil.

Marigolds for pest control

When the sun warms up, these pests will also not be able to break through such thick layer mulch. In addition, the smell, which is often planted along potato beds, covers the smell of rotting straw, repelling Colorado potato beetles. But what you really need to watch out for are mice and rats. These pests love straw, can dig numerous holes in the ground and cause great damage to the crop. To fight rodents, install mousetraps in advance and make special repellers.

In the fall, when the potato tops begin to turn yellow and dry, you can begin harvesting. We rake the mulch layer with our hands. Most of the potatoes will be on the surface, collect them. To get to the other half, use a pitchfork and carefully pry up the bush with its roots embedded in the ground. We turn the bush on its side and collect the tubers. If all the points have been taken into account and everything has been done correctly, the quality and quantity of potatoes should please you pleasantly.

Due to the close location of the tubers to the top layer of soil, there are no accumulations of earthen lumps on the harvested potatoes, as often happens with classic soil cultivation. It should also be noted that the land where potatoes are grown using this method is not depleted due to the annual replenishment of the soil with mulching compost, which remains in it after each harvest.

Potato harvest

If you missed a few potato tubers during the fall harvest or deliberately left them under the straw, don't worry, they will keep great until next spring. The main thing is to make the mulch layer thicker, and with the onset of the first warm days, do not forget to dig up the root crop, otherwise it may rot. Potatoes planted under straw or hay require virtually no intervention from you. The only thing you have to watch is the thickness of the mulch layer; it must be added as the bushes grow.

During spring frosts, you don’t have to worry about the tubers freezing or becoming moldy, because the straw reliably protects them from this. And when it gets warmer, the mulch can be slightly opened to allow fresh air to penetrate to the roots. Support optimal microclimate The difference between day and night temperatures helps, which creates additional condensation under the “cushion”.

If the soil temperature exceeds 22 °C, this causes tuber growth to stop. When using mulch to grow this crop, the problem can be completely avoided. As for additional fertilizing and fertilizers, they are not necessary. Organic matter from green manure, straw and hay will become the best fertilizer for your potatoes.