Scheme of a device for wood burning. How to make a homemade burner? The simplest homemade burner

The device has two operating modes. In the first position of the switch " norm"(I), it operates at half power: approximately 30-35W. In the second " turbo"(II) - 65-70W. The yellow LED shines in both modes, red only in the second. Indication LEDs are any, not bright ( AL307).

In order to make an electric burner you will need a cheap ($2-2.5) switching power supply (UPS) made in China, at 50-60 W, for halogen lamps. You can find them in stores around furniture fittings or in hardware stores.

Burner circuit

Schematic diagram of an electric burner based on ET

On the Internet, I came across a modification for making a pulse soldering iron. In the case of a burner, minimal modifications to the UPS will be required.

First, remove the board from the case and solder the output transformer. A lot has been written about these schemes, so I won’t go into details. It copes well as an electric burner. Let me just say that bipolar transistors MJE13003 (TUVE13007) can be replaced with more powerful current ones - MJE13005, MJE13007 (last digit means operating current). When choosing a UPS, you need to take into account the fact that it should not be protected from short circuit!

So, having removed the transformer from the board, it must be disassembled. A lot has also been written about disassembling ferromagnetic transformers. But, I will share my experience. First of all, remove the film and use a knife to remove the glue on the core connection. Afterwards, heat in small capacity water to a boil. But we don’t immediately throw it into boiling water, but heat it first with warm water. Due to the fact that the quality of these trances is very low, they can break. Therefore, after warming it up a little, we put it in boiling water and leave it there for a few seconds. The procedure can be repeated and try to loosen the winding body, and also run a knife along the seams of the ferrite halves. In the end, you will be able to disassemble it, but do not rush, do everything with caution. In my case, even after breaking such a trance, I did not despair, and connected the four pieces of the core with tape. Some glue the cracked slices, but even without that it works just fine, tightly compressed with adhesive tape.

Having disassembled the transformer, remove the secondary winding, and in its place we wind 3-4 turns stranded wire, cross section 2.5-4mm2. Suitable for this electrical cable(network). The insulation is first removed, and in its place a heat-shrinkable casing of suitable size is put on. Why heat-shrink tubing? Because she takes less space, regarding cable insulation. Now, we wind four turns, with a branch from the third. The voltage on the last turn will be approximately 9.0-10.5V. All that remains is to put the transformer back together and remove the leads, as can be seen in the photographs.

It's time to work on the body of the electric burner. For this we need an aluminum furniture leg. Yes, yes, furniture again! It is very cheap (less than a dollar), but most importantly it is made of 1 mm thick aluminum. Thus, the case will serve as a heat sink for transistors, which get very hot. Square leg height =100mm. The issue is also being resolved front panel. To do this, we disassemble the leg and leave a plastic plug with which we cut off a part - so that all the components of the product fit. Further, the radiator for transistor switches is also aluminum.

I used a 5mm thick plate radiator. It already had threaded holes, which I later used. But if you find a copper plate, it will definitely serve as a better heat sink. Also, you can use any other radiator suitable size. In addition to this radiator, I connected an aluminum U-shaped profile– you guessed it, it’s also furniture, which fits snugly into the square profile of the body.

The radiator must be in close contact with the body! This way, the heat will be distributed evenly, with greater efficiency, throughout the entire body, without requiring bulky radiators. The U-shaped profile is connected to the radiator plate with a small gap (2-3 mm) through small washers and then we screw this “sandwich” to the plate included in the impulse generator kit. Transistors and the board must be attached through an insulator, also from the UPS. It is preferable to ground the burner body.

Don’t forget, the device is connected to a mains voltage of 220V, so we take all safety measures during assembly and commissioning!

Now, we drill holes in the plastic front panel for the electric burner operating mode switch - for wires and for LEDs red And yellow glow. We connect the LEDs with limiting resistors with hot glue, as can be seen in the photo.

Next, twist the switch and solder all the wires together (see figure). Switch – P2T-21(Soviet production, maximum switching power up to 660 W with active load). It is necessary to use the most powerful toggle switch possible, otherwise the contacts will overheat! Maximum power electric burner reaches 70 watts.

To the body, as legs (anti-slip), we glue self-adhesive cork or silicone (available from glaziers and furniture makers). As a handle, I used a ready-made handle from a burner industrial production. And if you make it yourself, then a handle from a burnt soldering iron will do. Or we cut it out of textolite, wood with a fluoroplastic tip of suitable thickness. Fastening for nichrome - the terminals of electrical blocks are just suitable for these purposes.

I found nichrome for tips with a diameter of 0.8-1.5 mm on the radio market. Suitable for different heating devices. It must be bent as in the photographs and the tip flattened with a hammer. I made two types of tips: one from millimeter nichrome - for burning and cutting, the other from one and a half millimeter, for rougher work. Accordingly, the second one will effectively heat in a more powerful operating mode of the device (turbo).

The wire for the electric burner must be selected with a large cross-section and the most flexible. Otherwise it will get warm. Naturally, the electric burner will work intermittently, approximately 15-30 minutes.

Firstly, the efficiency is very low, which leads to large heat losses. And secondly, the handle will heat up, which forces you to work with it cyclically. For more convenient use, I advise you to adapt a push-button pedal (from sewing machine or from some machine) or push button switch food, etc. I did not make additional holes in the case or radiator for heat removal. This is at your discretion, depending on the radiator used.

The device is very easy to manufacture, thanks to ready-made solutions to assemble it. It can be made by any beginner with minimal electronics skills. The main thing is to follow safety rules when working with it. After all, the tip temperature reaches 500-600 degrees.

If you make an electric burner for a child, then the presence of an adult when working with it is mandatory. I hope it brings joy and creative success! ).

Discuss the article ELECTRIC BURNER

I decided to somehow make a homemade burner based on the model of the Soviet burner “Vyaz”. Back in the 90s they gave me wood burner "ELM" for a birthday . As I remember now, the orange body is exactly like in the photo below (photo from the Internet). But at that time I was not interested in myself scorcher, but rather to how it is structured. In short, over time, I destroyed it to the point of “kantsur” in childhood, now not understanding why. As they say, all that remains of the goat are the horns and legs - only the transformer has survived to this day. And so, after eleven years, I decided to correct what I had done and put together a remake of this wonderful burner. I wanted to make a burner with my own hands practically from scratch. Only here is the power regulator - it was not possible to get a wirewound potentiometer, and in its place I used a lighting brightness regulator - a simple Chinese dimmer on a triac.

Wood burner diagram.

Cautery on wood assembled according to a simple dimmer circuit, the load of which includes a step-down transformer 220/4 volts.

In principle, you can buy a regular dimmer - a regulator for incandescent lamps for indoor lighting. Its diagram is identical to the one shown here.

The transformer is taken from the original old one burner ELM— 220/4 volts. However, you can use a similar transformer or wind it yourself, using secondary winding the wire is about 1.5 mm in diameter. Select the number of turns experimentally so that the output is 4 volts.

Installation is carried out using a hinged method, without the use of any board. On the front panel homemade burner a power switch and a variable resistor for adjusting power (in our case, the temperature of the burner tip) are attached. The installation is actually done at the switch and variable resistor terminals.

The triac is installed on a minimal radiator.

Burner handle.

Sting handle burner made from a marker body into which a rectangular piece of foil PCB with two tracks is tightly inserted. You can use double-sided PCB. Brass pins with bolts from a regular one are soldered to these two tracks on one side. plug 220V, to the bolts of which a tip made of nichrome wire is screwed. On the other hand, the ends of the wire going to the secondary winding of the transformer are soldered to the PCB tracks. And this entire structure is located inside the marker body. The pins from the marker body should protrude a certain distance in order to distance the nichrome tip and the marker body to prevent it from melting. That is, the tip should not be located directly close to the plastic of the marker body.

Burner body.

Frame burner made of 10 mm plywood. The necessary parts of the body were cut out with a jigsaw, the ends were sanded with a belt grinder to the size required for assembly, coated with PVA glue and fastened with self-tapping screws countersunk heads. Drying for about a day. After drying the body, the parting plane of the two halves – the cover and the body – was polished with a surface grinder. The body and lid are mounted on miniature canopies. This entire assembly is also processed by a belt sander to a single form - factor with the removal of a certain certain amount of chips. As a result, we have an excellent homemade casing for burner with a well-fitted parting plane and smooth sides.

Burner housing open with stain several times until the desired shade is obtained.

Dry the body. As the stain dries, the wood fibers rise to form a velvety surface. Such a surface cannot be opened with varnish. Expanded wood fibers will look terrible. The body needs to be polished. To do this we take a small wooden block, convenient for holding in the hand, as if pressing its corner against another piece of wood and then rubbing it on the wooden body. That is, we rub the body rounded corner whetstone - as if we are crushing the swollen fibers raised by the stain. Polishing should be carried out along the direction of the wood grain using uniform moderate force over the entire surface of the body. The process is long and painstaking, but the result is worth it. It is also recommended to first practice on a sample to prevent damage to the case. burner in the absence of experience.

After finishing polishing, we coat the body with varnish. I recommend semi-matte parquet varnish. He gives great view and scratches will not be so noticeable in the future.

Me and Diode. © site.

Today, many people, both adults and children, want to burn wood. This type of hobby even has a name - pyrography. Since ancient times there has been this type art, its essence lies in depicting drawings on wood on a hard surface so as to capture the picture on long time. To do this, use a very hot object that will melt the surface, thereby leaving marks.

What materials should be used? Wood is chosen as the basis for the future image, since it is one of the most pliable, cheapest and most available materials for burning.

Undoubtedly, every person at least once saw the fruits of pyrography live. Translated, this word means image using fire. It looks really fascinating.

Surely every person has been surprised more than once by the beauty of drawings and patterns on wood. Wood burning, like drawing, is painstaking and great work. Those who create with the “help of fire,” like sculptors and artists, are very receptive to the world around them, because this is the main condition for creating masterpieces. A masterpiece, in this case, is not just to depict someone’s face or an element of nature, but to convey every feature, even the smallest detail, to display the mood, the expression of the eyes (if it is a person). And all this on one small board.

There are several types of burning

Using a store-bought device (meaning purchased in a store developed by a company).
- Using homemade wood burners (that is, the element that you make from your own materials).
- Using the sun and a lens. This method is used by many children who have nothing to do in the sun, but it was used by ancient people to get a fire or transmit any information to other tribes using a drawing on the bark.

Today, the most relevant thing is a homemade wood burner, since the sun is not always there, and we are not ancient people in a hopeless situation. And when buying a new device you will have to spend a considerable amount of money.

To make it yourself, you need to have an understanding of the structure of any store-bought analogue. With the right approach, you can develop more functional and high-quality wood burners.

What does the store element consist of?

We can only consider it externally. A inner part can be seen in the drawing. The wood burner diagram is shown in the photo below.

By the way, stores most often sell power tools. Therefore, it is worth looking at the main parts, including the transformer for the wood burner. Also, for an expanded understanding of these elements, you should pay attention to the operating instructions. The main parts and the material from which they are made will definitely be specified there.

How to make a wood burner with your own hands?

To implement this idea, you need to use a lot of ingenuity and perseverance, since this is not the easiest task, and the scheme is very confusing. During manufacturing, you will have to use a variety of equipment that is not commercially available.

What will you need for this?

It all depends on what kind of wood burners you decide to make. The only thing that will be useful in any case is nichrome wire. The next required spare parts are a battery and a wire. The battery is preferably a rechargeable type, since constant use of the device will use up a lot of regular batteries, which can significantly hit your pocket.

There are also requirements for the wire. Good wire is a guarantee of your safety, so you should approach this issue very responsibly.

Where can I find a diagram for development?

You can develop the scheme yourself. In our article you can find a lot various types schemes - from the most elementary to quite complex. All these inventions were designed to suit the nature of the developer, naturally. You can easily choose any of the schemes and work according to it.

It is worth recalling that each person is an individual, which means that each has his own character and his own requirements for life. In this case, it’s worth remembering this, looking through the large number of proposed scheme options and creating your own, even if it is a little more complicated and more demanding than the others.

Naturally, it will be easier to implement your idea for people who are closely familiar with physical laws, and especially with electrical circuits. If you don’t understand this, no problem, you can find information about graphical representations of circuits, understand the images and find out what is what in reality.

Where should I start?

You need to start by modeling the burner first in your head and then on paper. When you have clearly defined ideas, you can start looking for parts for the device. This will not take much time, since everyone has the basic spare parts in the house. Of course, it will be more difficult if you choose a pyrograph with the ability to change attachments and change the temperature.

How to make the simplest burner?

Surely many don't large quantity time to do difficult option burner. Therefore, let's consider the hiking option.
To make the device we will need:

Needle from a medical syringe;
- one sewing needle;
- 9 Volt rechargeable battery;
- double wire.

The needle should be given more attention, since the quality of your masterpieces in the future will depend on its quality. It is desirable that it be sharp and thin. During operation, it is the needle from under the syringe that will heat up red-hot. The second one will barely touch it. This will cause resistance and will cause the needle to warm up.

A cap from syringe needle, as well as a sewing needle (with thread). It is necessary to pierce the cap with a needle and stretch the thread to the end - so that the needle fits tightly to the cap. To secure it, wrap it with the rest of the thread. In this case, the needle should extend beyond the cap and be positioned strictly parallel to it.

Next, let's return to the syringe part. The cone-shaped cap is of no use, so it must be eliminated. We wind this needle to the opposite side of the cap with another thread, parallel to the sewing needle. Now you need to slightly bend the tip of the needle so that its tip touches sewing needle. As was said above - than smaller area contact between games - the better it is for the speed of warming up.

Next step

Next, you need to take a high-quality double wire. It must be cleaned on both sides and two holes made in the cap to bring the wire out. Having done this, you need to connect each wire to the corresponding needle. It is advisable to screw the wires very tightly, since the quality of the current flow depends on this.

For safety and quality, it is necessary to finally secure the wire (including threads) with insulating tape.

At the end of the work, you need to use an unnecessary button (preferably from an old tape recorder) and a rechargeable battery. The main thing is not to confuse the polarity, otherwise homemade apparatus will not heat up (or rather, its tip).

All is ready! All that remains is to try out the made device in operation.

Summarizing

It is worth noting that now burning is not only a way of spending time, but also a way of earning money. The demand for burning portraits and landscapes is increasing every day. Now this activity competes with wood carving. Wood carving was originally created to diversify the interior of ancient houses of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. After all, when there were no stores beautiful furniture, they created it themselves. Recently we started trying to use burning on furniture instead of wood carving. This solution will make the interior not only beautiful, but also unique.

The price depends on the number of strokes required and the quality requirements of the work.

In fact, you can make any wood burners in a short time. A drawn sketch or drawing will greatly simplify the assembly or even the creation of your own model of the device.

It doesn’t matter how complex the model is; the most important thing in this device is the correctness of the tip. This is what can affect the quality of your future paintings. The wood burner performs patterns very accurately, so the image can be of any degree of complexity. By the way, as shown in the previous photographs, the shape of the tip for this electrical appliance can be changed depending on the complexity of the work.

So, we found out how to make an electric wood burner with your own hands.

Not only many teenagers, but also adults enjoy wood burning. Wood makes beautiful souvenirs that can be given as gifts. New Year, birthday or just any memorable date. Are in particular demand wooden boards with a drawing that you make yourself.

We suggest watching a video that will help you make a wood burner at home.

For a wood burner we will need:
- car battery 12 volts, but if there is electricity in the room, then the battery can simply be replaced with a cord with a plug that will connect to the network;
- electrical tape;
- small boards for pens;
- fastenings from an old 220 volt relay;
- 2 aluminum wires with insulation, approximately 2 mm in diameter;
- a thick wire connected to the output;
- spiral for burning, 0.7 mm thick.

I would like to immediately note that at 12 volts the tip burns out very quickly and in order to prevent it from burning out, we simply lower the temperature. The easiest way is to make a rheostat from the same spiral.

We wrap the rheostat around a screwdriver like a spring and simply connect it to the battery. Be sure to make a reliable connection.

We connect one end of the cable that comes from the burner to the battery, and the other end to the rheostat.

To turn on the burning device, we connect a rheostat to the second terminal of the battery. Be sure to attach the rheostat with a clothespin.

We attach wires to the relay that will run along the wooden handle. We wrap the entire structure with electrical tape. We attach a two-core cable to the wiring, one end of which will go to the battery, and the other to the rheostat.

If you do not have a battery on hand, you can replace it with any other voltage source that is found in your apartment.

The home burner is ready. A fully charged battery will have enough power to operate the device all day.

Why a homemade burner? There are many domestic and imported models of electric wood burners on sale: Orbit, Pattern, Elm (ours), Stayer, Qiddycome (Chinese) and others. But lovers artistic painting hardened wood needles are not always happy with this available choice.

Domestic devices usually have only one needle, imported ones have from 4 to 21 nozzles with different needles, but suffer from fragility. Yes, and you won’t always buy it the required device V in the right place V right time. Here we will talk about the experience of one Siberian enthusiast, an amateur, making a high-quality homemade electric wood burner with 39 (!) needles (see photo). Let's conduct, so to speak, a master class on his behalf.
First of all, we set three basic design requirements:
1. Sufficiently high power of the power supply unit, allowing the use of needles of large cross-sections.
2. The possibility of stepwise voltage adjustment for working with needles of different sections and smooth adjustment to change the temperature of the needles in a wide range.
3. Convenient change of working needles.
Simple electrical diagram device is shown in the figure.

Now let's move on to the process of its manufacture.

We take any transformer with a power of at least 200 W (other characteristics are unimportant), for example, OSM 380/36V (250 kW). At lower power, the transformer will overheat when operating with needles of large cross-sections. Completely remove the secondary (upper) winding. The primary (network) remains in place.

We rewind the secondary winding: one or two layers of flexible insulated wire with a cross section of 6 mm 2 (for example, PV-3). You should first calculate the number of turns per 1 V of output voltage (by selection: wind several turns, connect the transformer to the network and measure the output voltage).

Let, for example, there be 4 turns per 1 V. Having determined the value of 2 V for the lower limit of the output voltage, we first wind 8 turns, and then make taps after every two turns. This will give a discreteness of 0.5 V for stepwise adjustment. To ensure a discreteness of 0.25 V, we will add another turn (in the diagram - the upper tap of 0.25 V).

In addition to stepwise, we also use continuous adjustment of the output voltage by inserting into the circuit primary winding variable wirewound resistor PPB-25 100 Ω (in the diagram - R1).

Due to the high power of the device, we will abandon the male-female connector, and securely connect the working handle with the needle to the body with galvanized M6 bolts. We will equip the taps and ends of the secondary winding with 6/6 tinned copper tips.

Working with needles of large cross-sections requires a current of at least 30 A. Therefore, the cross-section of the wires of the working handle must be at least 4 mm². You can take two wires from rubber insulation from cable KG 4x4 (vinyl insulation of a wire of the same cross-section does not provide it with the required flexibility).

We grind the handle to lathe made of ebonite. We tightly insert a fluoroplastic plug with two brass rods into the front end of the handle for attaching the working needle (see photo). These rods fit tightly into the holes drilled in the plug. At the ends of the rods, 8-10 mm recesses are drilled. Tinned contacts are pressed into the recesses located inside the handle. A needle is attached to the outer recesses. M4 screws are suitable for clamping the needle.

You can use anything as a housing, you just need to remember safety. For example, the case from a megaohmmeter of the last century is very good: it is fantastically strong and durable.