home · Tool · Which self-leveling finishing floor to choose? Which self-leveling floor is better: choose a self-leveling floor with a durable coating. Tools and materials

Which self-leveling finishing floor to choose? Which self-leveling floor is better: choose a self-leveling floor with a durable coating. Tools and materials

Self-leveling floors appeared relatively recently and did not have time to acquire several decades of experience, like traditional concrete screed. But thanks to their operational characteristics are successfully gaining popularity, gradually pushing aside more “venerable” categories, both in the segment of rough bases and in the segment of finishing decorative coatings. Naturally, so interesting and universal material could not go unnoticed among users of the FORUMHOUSE portal.

Both base and finish

Self-leveling floor is a type of screed that forms a monolithic, seamless coating on the surface, the creation of which uses self-leveling (self-leveling) mixtures. According to its purpose, it is divided into two categories - leveling base and finishing decorative coating.

Leveler

Available in the form of dry mixtures mixed with water. The presence of fine-grained fillers (up to 250 microns), mineral binders and modifiers in the composition ensures plasticity and uniformity of the solution. Depending on the manufacturer and scope of application, sub-level self-leveling floors may have a cement or gypsum base.

After hardening, a strong, wear-resistant, smooth, even surface is formed, designed for subsequent cladding.

Unlike cement-sand screed The result is an elastic coating that is not subject to cracking and shrinkage. In addition, bulk leveling mixtures gain brand strength faster - on average, in 15 days. There are also special compositions that harden within a few hours.

The thickness of the poured layer depends on the parameters of the base, the lower limit is 5 mm. Some brands can be filled with a layer of up to 60 mm. Leveling mixtures are used as a rough coating for facing laminate, linoleum, tiles, parquet, decorative self-leveling flooring and others that require a perfectly flat base. The difference allowed according to SNiP is 2 mm/m², and levelers allow you to quickly and efficiently prepare the base.

The mixture is selected based not only on the data of the base for pouring and the required thickness, but also on the compressive strength of the screed, since different cladding requires different strengths. For example, for laminate will do almost any self-leveling floor, and for decorative self-leveling flooring based on epoxy - the most durable. For technical rooms where finishing is not always carried out, it is worth using industrial-grade “fillers” with a strength of 35 MPa or more, our forum members are aware of this.

Palych P34 FORUMHOUSE Member

For laminate flooring, a floor strength of 8-10 MPa is sufficient; almost any self-leveling material will do. And for epoxy you need a strength of 25 MPa. Here only high-strength bulk liquids can cope.

Finishing

Decorative self-leveling floors have all the advantages of levelers - they provide a strong, durable, wear-resistant and perfectly smooth coating. But at the same time, in addition to an impressive set of characteristics, they also have an attractive appearance - imitation marble, ornate patterns, combinations of contrasting tones, fancy multi-colored mixes, seabed, with a three-dimensional effect (3D) and many others.

Although polymer-cement floors, intended for leveling the base for finishing, are sometimes used as finishing coat, special decorative liquid mixtures are polymer, which greatly expands the possibilities of decoration. The composition of polymer floors is one-component or two-component, based on polyurethane or epoxy resin, with modifying additives. Both levelers and finishing self-leveling floors tolerate temperature changes and heating well, so they can be used in a heated floor system. But Maximum temperature The compositions are different; when choosing, you should pay attention to this indicator.

The thickness of the poured layer varies from 1 to 8 mm, so to create decor you can use not only flat, but also convex elements - coins, shells, pebbles.

“Nivaikas” are especially relevant in high-traffic areas, technical rooms, bathrooms and kitchens. However, a decorative coating with a three-dimensional effect can decorate a living room, a bedroom, or a children's room, whether it is branded or homemade. – multilayer coating, including:

  • base layer – prepared base;
  • the decorative coating itself - a three-dimensional photograph on special paper or fabric, homemade posters, pictures, drawings, fabric, small decorations and the like;
  • finishing layer– transparent polymer;
  • protective layer– varnish.

Self-leveling flooring with a three-dimensional effect is an expensive pleasure, even if self-installation, and if you hire professionals, the price doubles. Simpler polymer floors, plain, imitating marble or with colored “blots”, will cost less, but still not the most available material. However, the decorativeness of the coating and its durability, subject to compliance technological process, reimburse the costs.

Installation technology

Although the self-leveling floor does not create any particular difficulties in operation, it is necessary to strictly follow the manufacturer’s instructions; even minor violations may result in the need to dismantle the expensive cladding that has “reared up on its hind legs.” Installation is carried out in several stages.

Preparing the base

Depending on the brand, self-leveling mixtures can be used on wooden, concrete and slab bases after appropriate finishing.

Wooden floor – the boards are checked for strength, if necessary, weakened segments are cut out and replaced. The baseboard is dismantled, the previous coating is cleaned off, small cracks are sanded to open, the cracks are sealed repair mixture. Checking the moisture content of the base is mandatory. It should not exceed 10%, otherwise defects may appear in the future. All dirt and dust are removed, and if necessary, the wood is degreased. The last step is to treat the surface with a penetrating compound. deep penetration. The primer will not only ensure adhesion of the composition to the base, but also seal the canvas.

Concrete base – if we are talking about repair work, the previous coating is removed, the surface is cleaned of dust and debris. If work is carried out on a fresh screed, the level is measured, the protrusions are chipped off, cracks and potholes are repaired. At least 28 days must pass from the moment the screed is poured to the level or decorative coating is poured. As with wood floors, the moisture level of the substrate must be maintained, with most mixtures requiring a standard of 4%.

VadimXL7 FORUMHOUSE Member

Don't neglect humidity. If ahead of schedule Once you start pouring the polymer, problems cannot be avoided. Of course, pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations. There are materials with a humidity tolerance of 5-12%, and there are also vapor-permeable ones, where the humidity is not regulated (such floors are matte). It is better to control humidity with a moisture meter.

If you don't have it at hand special device, VadimXL7 suggests using a proven method - a piece of plastic film measuring 1x1 meter. It is glued to the floor with tape for a day. If, after tearing off, there is moisture on the film, or the concrete has darkened due to moisture, pouring is postponed until both the film and the concrete remain dry. At the end of the preparation, the surface, cleared of dust and contaminants, is thoroughly primed.

Tile – there is no need to dismantle the entire coating; it is enough to strengthen the peeling elements, clean the surface of dirt and prime it.

In addition to standard preparation, when it comes to pouring a polymer floor over a screed or self-leveling leveler, VadimXL7 recommends using a grinder or, at home, using an ordinary grinder with an attachment. This is done to remove the “milk” and open the pores, after which the surface is vacuumed and primed.

The choice of primer depends on the type of self-leveling floor that will be poured; for a polyurethane floor, polyurethane primer; for an epoxy floor, epoxy primer.

For highly porous substrates, several layers of soil are applied; the room must be ventilated so that the humidity does not increase. The primer is applied with a roller to the main surface and with a wide brush in corners and hard-to-reach places.

To increase sound insulation and prevent adhesion of the self-leveling floor to the walls, which can lead to deformation, a damper tape is used, as when performing a dry screed. Its width must be no less than the layer being poured; the remains are cut off after the composition has hardened.

Preparing the mixture

Manufacturers indicate exact instructions on containers with mixtures. Do not violate the proportions: if you exceed the specified amount of water, the characteristics of the floor are reduced - both strength and durability. The self-leveling floor does not tolerate dilution “by eye”; it is better to bother with a measuring cup than to spoil the expensive material and your mood. The compositions are mixed with a construction mixer. It is not recommended to prepare a large volume at once, since the solution has a short lifespan and you may not have time to use it up. A forum member encountered a similar situation IntroCom.

Bulk mixtures are divided into two large groups:

Rough, with the help of which the base is prepared for laying finishing floor coverings (linoleum, parquet, parquet board, laminate, vinyl tiles, carpet and others);

Ready self-leveling floor for laying finishing coatings.

Decorative, creating a thin surface polymer film with an image. They are also called floors with a 3D effect or liquid linoleum.

Decorative self-leveling floors with a 3D effect.

Both categories are often confused or tried to be combined. However, this is a big mistake, since they differ not only in purpose, but also in composition. The first are dry mineral mixtures based on a binder with various fillers and additives. The second ones are liquid ready-made compositions based on epoxy, polyurethane, methyl methacrylate and other polymer resins. In this review, we will consider compositions of the first type, as the most popular.

Self-leveling mixtures are multi-component compositions that are designed to level various types bases (concrete, wood, cement-sand, anhydrite, gypsum screed) for laying coatings. Perfect for repairing defects such as unevenness, differences, cracks. When mixed with water, plastic solutions with a short pot life are formed - no more than 1 hour. Because of this, you need to work with the material quickly and as carefully as possible.

Leveling base defects using a self-leveling floor.

Self-leveling floors are classified according to the following criteria:

By area of ​​application, are produced:

  • Compositions for interior works;
  • Compositions for external use;
  • Universal, used indoors and outdoors.

By composition exist:

  • High-strength cement. Can be used to form a full screed. Allowable thickness layers – from 2 to 10 cm;
  • Cement-gypsum, combining the strength of cement and the speed of setting of gypsum. As a rule, a layer of 4-6 cm is formed from them;
  • Thin-layer gypsum (up to 4 cm).

By application method. The degree of plasticity of the solution depends on this factor. There are:

Thus, before purchasing, you need to decide on three questions:

Where will the self-leveling mixture be used?

Preference should be given to a highly specialized product, since its composition is better suited to temperature and humidity conditions. For example, self-leveling compositions for exterior use contain special frost-resistant additives that prevent cracking of the finished coating.

What results are required from self-leveling floors?

If the goal is to hide defects, then it is enough to purchase budget thin-layer mixtures. To form a new durable layer, it is worth choosing more expensive compositions based on a cement binder.

How will the solution be applied?

It is more convenient to work with liquid compositions manually, whereas machine application requires fixed viscosity and spreadability.

Once you have decided on the answers, you will easily understand which product you should choose.

Best or worst: rating of self-leveling floors

Self-leveling compositions are available in the range of almost all manufacturers of ready-made dry mixes. We analyzed the characteristics declared by the factories, customer reviews, and compiled our top 5 materials for leveling bases.

Knauf Tribon

The first, but as practice shows, not the most best product. This is universal gypsum-cement mixture for interior work, the advantages of which are:

  • High level of adhesion to mineral and wooden substrates;
  • Technological passage – 6 hours after application;
  • Laying of coatings is possible after 7 days;
  • Improves the soundproofing properties of floors;
  • Can be used on heated screeds;
  • Layer thickness – 10-60 mm;
  • Price – on average 280 rubles. per bag 30 kg.

What exactly is the disadvantage that most buyers note? Low mobility. The bulk solution is extremely thick, so it is very difficult to work manually. After curing, a fairly smooth coating is obtained; it is better to choose it for minor leveling of floor defects. Suitable for laying such capricious coatings as laminate, linoleum, LVT and others.

Volma Level Express

Non-shrinking gypsum mixture universal type for indoor use. Works on all types mineral bases(concrete, cement, anhydrite and other types of screeds). The manufacturer declares the following characteristics of the self-leveling self-leveling floor:

  • High level of mobility of the solution, due to which it is better leveled;
  • Technological passage is allowed after 4-6 hours;
  • Laying of coatings - no earlier than after 7-10 days;
  • Allowed for use with the “warm floors” system;
  • Layer thickness – 10-100 mm;
  • Price – 250 rub. per bag 20 kg.

All gypsum mixtures They take longer to dry than cement ones, so it is advisable to give the base more time to gain strength - at least 14 days.

The self-leveling floor from the Russian Volma plant is suitable for almost all types of decorative coatings, from ceramics to parquet. It is not advisable to use in wet areas and places with high level mechanical loads (production workshops, garages, etc.).

Bergauf series "Boden"

German- Russian company offers a whole range of floor leveling products. These are cement, cement-gypsum and gypsum compositions for external and internal use.

To choose just one, you need to be a professional. Particularly interesting is the material that was developed specifically for inexperienced craftsmen - Bergauf Easy Boden. This is a universal self-leveling floor based on a complex binder to eliminate differences and other base defects. Basic parameters:

  • Non-shrinking crack-resistant composition;
  • Technological passage – after 4-8 hours;
  • Laying of coatings - no earlier than after 7 days;
  • Can be used for heated screeds;
  • Layer thickness – 6-50 mm;
  • Price – 370 rub. per bag 25 kg.

Suitable for use in rooms with normal humidity levels under any floor coverings: linoleum, carpet, parquet, laminate, vinyl tiles, etc. According to reviews from craftsmen, the mixture is very demanding on the amount of water. If the instructions are not followed, the finished solution may separate.

Ceresit series "CN"

Henkel Bautechnik also offers an impressive range of products for leveling substrates. At the same time, it cannot be said that any material is better or worse; the areas and methods of their use are different. For example, consider Ceresit CN175, declared by the manufacturer as a 2 in 1 – self-leveling floor and finishing leveler.

Ceresit 175 is a universal cement-gypsum composition that can be used both for leveling and for forming a “floating” type screed (that is, independent of the base). A particular advantage is the possibility of use on weak, crumbling concrete. Pros of the mixture:

  • Shrink-resistant, crack-resistant;
  • Technological passage – after 6-8 hours;
  • Laying decorative coverings – after 7-10 days;
  • Layer thickness – 3-60 mm;
  • Price – 400 rubles per 20 kg bag.

With such an impressive number of advantages potential buyers what many people think is inflated is the cost. In addition, the packaging is reduced compared to others, which accordingly increases the final cost of the material.

Bolars SV-210

The Russian company BOLARS® also offers a wide selection of materials for floor leveling. The assortment includes gypsum and cement mixtures. A separate segment presents compositions for screeds.

Beginners and professionals will undoubtedly be interested in self-leveling quick-hardening gypsum flooring SV-210. The product can be used for preliminary and final leveling. Another important plus is that the material is ideal for residential and public premises with a high level of mechanical loads (up to 200 kg/cm2). The manufacturer does not recommend using the material in damp basements or garages; there are special cement mixtures for this.

Main characteristics of self-leveling floor:

  • Non-shrinkage and crack resistance;
  • High mobility;
  • Technological passage – after 3 hours;
  • Can be used with the “warm floors” system;
  • Laying of finishing coatings – after 7 days;
  • Layer thickness – 2-100 mm;
  • Price – 470 rubles per 25 kg bag.

Compared to other products, the cost of SV-120 is much higher. But the material’s properties are noticeably superior. According to reviews from craftsmen, the solution has good spreadability and is easy to use. On the downside - mandatory use large quantity beacons.

To summarize, we note that if the instructions are strictly followed, any self-leveling floor will show remarkable results. The main thing is not to try to save on quality by purchasing cheap fakes or analogues.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for selecting them. Just submit in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and companies by email. You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

On modern market building materials self-leveling self-leveling floors are becoming increasingly widespread due to the fact that their installation is quite simple, and their use leads to saving time on renovation work and to the formation of ideal smooth surfaces. At the same time, to obtain smooth surface no additional smoothing is required.

The technology for pouring such floors is quite easy, but if you install the floor yourself, you need to carefully study the rules for preparing the mixture and pouring the floors.

Features of self-leveling floors

Floors made from self-leveling mixtures have many advantages compared to other mixtures used in construction and renovation:


The main disadvantage of this floor is considered to be its rather high price, but this is offset by its effectiveness.

Also considered disadvantages are the high requirements and complexity of dismantling the coating if the installation of the floor is carried out with errors.

Types of self-leveling floor

Floor mixtures are divided into two types:


 Cement mortar – its use is very popular. It can be used in any room, including those with high humidity levels. The thickness of the coating with the solution should not exceed five centimeters.

Anhydride mixture– this mixture dries much faster, since it contains gypsum. Due to the gypsum in the mixture, its thickness can be up to 10 centimeters.

But installing a floor using such a mixture is impossible in rooms with high humidity.

With the correct selection of the mixture composition, in accordance with the conditions in which the floor will be installed, and careful and leisurely completion of all stages of work, you can make a reliable coating with your own hands. Which will be absolutely smooth and provide a high-quality basis for finishing.

Self-leveling self-leveling floor technology

To create a flat floor surface, concrete mixtures are used for screeding.

In the 20th century, the concept of a self-leveling floor was invented, which was a cement floor, but in a more liquid state, with the addition of polyvinyl acetate emulsion.


Such a mixture, when poured onto the base, spread under its own weight along the plane. This greatly simplified the work on installing the screed and reduced the work time.

Gradually the composition of the mixture changed towards improvement. And now on the market there are self-leveling mixtures that are used for finishing the floor “for finishing”, which are easy to use and high efficiency during operation.

Do-it-yourself mixture pouring technology

When renovating a room, it is necessary to make a floor screed, and it does not matter what kind of finishing coating will be in the room, linoleum, parquet or tile. For execution high-quality coating All stages of work must be strictly followed.

Tools and materials

To lay a self-leveling floor, you must prepare everything in advance necessary tools and materials:


In the room where the floor will be installed, it is necessary to remove the old coating, screed and traces of paint, mastic and glue residues. After this, the base is cleaned of dust and dirt, and the joints in the concrete are cleaned. All irregularities, cracks and seams are puttied or sanded if they are small.

At high humidity the coating must be dried. This stage is one of the most important, since its quality execution determines how long the screed will last and whether it will develop cracks or distortions. At this stage, be sure to check the floor level.


When installing the screed according wooden floors it is also necessary to carefully prepare the base. The baseboards are removed and the remaining varnish and glue are cleaned from the floor using a spatula, scraper and metal brush.

Dust and dirt can be removed using construction vacuum cleaner, or use a broom.


All cracks in the floor must be repaired mortar. Can be aligned wooden base using a primary screed.

If a self-leveling floor is installed on top ceramic tiles, then you need to check in advance how well the tiles adhere. Those that do not pass the test are removed and the voids are filled with putty. The surface must be degreased before work.

Primer


After all the work on preparing the base, it is necessary to apply a primer in two layers, which will ensure adhesion of the screed to the base and provide greater tightness. If the base is porous and dry, the primer is applied in several layers. When applying it, it is necessary that the room has a constant air temperature, otherwise bubbles will form in the primer. Apply the primer using a roller or wide brush. The layers are applied one at a time, after the first layer has completely dried, a new one can be laid on top.


 Waterproofing

Before pouring the mixture onto the base, it is necessary to waterproof it.

It can be used as film, coating or roll.

Preparation of the solution


Self-leveling mixtures are sold ready-made in dry form. To prepare them, you need to pour the contents of the package into a container of water where the solution will be mixed. After this, you need to mix the mixture thoroughly until the lumps completely disappear. At the same time, you need to remember that first water is poured into the container, and only then the mixture is poured into it; if you do the opposite, lumps will form. The ratio of water and mixture should be indicated on the packaging.

You need to mix the solution with a construction mixer or a drill with a special attachment for 10 minutes. After this, it must be immediately poured into place, otherwise it will thicken and spoil. If the solution thickens before it is poured into place, it must be thrown away. Water cannot be added again.

Pouring the solution


The finished solution is poured onto the floor surface in small portions, placing them next to each other and leveling with a spatula. The thickness is adjusted using a squeegee.

After a portion of the mixture has been poured onto the floor and leveled, you need to go over it with a needle roller to remove air bubbles. Next, pour out a new portion, smooth it out and roll it with a roller. So pour the entire floor in small portions.

After this, the finished screed is covered plastic film to keep dust and dirt away from the coating.

It will be possible to walk on the coating within a day, but it will gain its strength only after 3-14 days, and further finishing can be continued.

Thus, self-leveling floors are the best material for installing a base under finishing floor. Their installation technology is so simple that absolutely anyone can handle it, with enough attention and patience.

What the self-leveling finishing floor is intended for is obvious from its name. But self-filling of such floors is far from so obvious and should be based on compliance with strict repair recommendations.

Features of self-leveling floors

Modern self-leveling floors have very diverse (and even diverse) advantages:

  • Strength and durability. At proper preparation and proper pouring, the finishing layer of the self-leveling floor will last for several decades without the need for major repairs;
  • Resistance - to humidity of any level (even bucketfuls), to sudden and significant temperature changes, to most chemically active substances and to all means household chemicals without exception;
  • Absolute fire safety. By definition, self-leveling floors are not capable of smoldering and, even more so, burning - and this is what makes up the safety of our homes, by the way;
  • No toxic emissions. This property have only certified and high-quality bulk mixtures - when buying cheap “analogs” in dubious retail outlets the absence of harmful fumes will be very doubtful;
  • Excellent and simply beautiful appearance. Thanks to seamless technology and characteristic smoothness, this floor looks like a mirror, but at the same time has the strength of rock. The finished self-leveling floor requires minimal and easy maintenance; it is hostile to microorganisms, fungi and mold;
  • The smartest thing to do is finishing fill liquid mixtures– then maximum heat transfer in the room is ensured.

Of course, self-leveling floors have characteristic repair and construction disadvantages. These include the need for serious pre-finish preparation, the difficult and “dirty” nature of the work itself. The floor must be poured in the entire room at once, and there will be no possibility of alteration (as is the case with laying floorboards, laminate or linoleum).

If you are not confident in your own abilities to fill floors, either try it this technology on small area, or contact repair specialists.

The cost of money and labor for preparation, pouring, chiseling and removal of the “remains” of poorly filled floors can be prohibitive - both for the budget and for health and peace of mind.

Types of self-leveling floors

Self-leveling floors sold as ready-made building mixtures, are divided into three large groups:


Of course, you can fill the floor in your own garage with polyurethane “epoxy”, and the area for water procedures car made from a standard waterproof epoxy mixture. But for rooms in an apartment and residential building, mineral mixtures are more relevant - and not only due to affordability.

They can withstand the weight of the heaviest furniture, pressure and vibration of the most powerful household appliances(the same washing machines). Self-leveling floors made from mineral mixtures can be poured in several stages - these compositions are capable of leveling differences in heights of up to 8 cm. That is, even quite bad concrete base can be made into a smooth and durable “mirror” using an identical coating. Of course, with proper preparation and high-quality filling of the floors.

Finish self-leveling floor – stages of base preparation

Quality indicators and aesthetics depend on the thoroughness of preparing the base for the pouring mixture. appearance new floor. The main stages of preparation are as follows:

  • The old covering and all “intermediate” floors are removed, be it floorboard joists, etc. The floor is cleared down to the concrete base;
  • Cracks, chips, potholes in concrete are filled cement-sand mortar, the protrusions are trimmed. You need to pay attention to compatibility repair mortar with self-leveling floors, this must be indicated in the instructions;
  • The leveled base is thoroughly cleaned of debris (preferably with a vacuum cleaner) and checked for horizontalness with an accurate level. The smaller the height difference, the lower the consumption of the mixture for self-leveling floors;
  • A special primer is applied to the base; it closes the pores in concrete and cement and ensures strong adhesion of the self-leveling floor to the base. Craftsmen advise priming the concrete base several times using a roller and brushes (in the corners);
  • Along the perimeter of the room being renovated, it is necessary to strengthen the damper tape - on the walls and on the door jambs. Under no circumstances should the self-leveling floor be adjacent to the walls; the technological gap will avoid cracks and other deformations;

After completing the preparation - and sticking the damper tape is its last stage - you can begin pouring the floors.

Finishing layer of self-leveling floor - instructions for self-filling

To install a finished self-leveling floor with your own hands, there should be no drafts in the room, the air temperature should be at least +15 ˚C and the base should be completely dry. Work in small room can be done alone; with a floor area of ​​20 m2 or more, it is advisable to have an assistant.