Finish coating for self-leveling floors. Finish self-leveling floor – smooth strength of an ideal surface. Advantages and disadvantages of self-leveling floors

When choosing and installing flooring experienced craftsmen Special attention pay attention to uniform distribution of the material. Even if we are talking about durable and deformation-resistant flooring, when used on an uneven base, even high-strength laminate loses its qualities. The idea of ​​self-leveling mixtures practically eliminates problems with the formation of a smooth floor with a reliable base. A traditional screed works on this principle, but it decorative qualities are not so high, so the creation of an aesthetic outer layer is required. A decorative self-leveling floor will perform both functions. The finishing self-leveling composition is easily distributed over the target surface, after which it forms a floor covering that is pleasing to the eye. To choose the optimal mixture for specific needs, it is worth taking a closer look at their types.

Methyl methacrylate compounds

After all, the technology is based on industrial means of creating smooth and high-strength coatings. The decorative function appeared later, and the use of methyl methacrylic resins allowed technologists to create a self-leveling floor, the universal composition of which is optimally suited for industrial, commercial and public facilities. Such coatings are used not only indoors, but also in open air conditions.

The combination of methyl methacrylic resins and special additives allows the base of the future coating to be endowed with special qualities. In particular, modified compositions of this group are offered on the market, designed for operation in freezers and at high temperatures. Such properties expand the areas in which methyl methacrylic self-leveling flooring can be used. A universal set of components does not provide the aesthetic surface properties required for modern residential buildings.

Epoxy coatings

We can say that this is a new generation of self-leveling floors, which also has fairly high technical and operational characteristics. For example, epoxy flooring can be poured in rooms that involve chemical exposure to acidic compounds, salts, alkalis and active oils. What is especially important is that such coatings have no restrictions in terms of the choice of rough base. The self-leveling mass can also be used on metal surface, and on wood and concrete. Again, self-leveling epoxy-based finishing floors are mainly used in industrial facilities, garages, laboratories, technical rooms etc. But, unlike methyl methacrylic coatings, such screeds are also allowed for installation in residential premises due to their environmental safety. Another thing is that their design qualities leave much to be desired. However, families are increasingly appearing decorative compositions this group.

Cement-acrylic floors

Pouring compounds of this type contain cement, polyacrylate copolymers, and modified fillers. This coating has also been developed for use in aggressive conditions with abrasive and chemical influences. Unlike previous coatings, this type of self-leveling finishing floor is oriented towards meeting the requirements for mechanical loads. Therefore, the composition can be used in warehouses and auto repair shops, where the movement of heavy equipment is expected. In addition, thanks to the matte surface, coatings based on a cement-acrylic base provide an anti-slip effect, increasing the safety of people.

Polyurethane compounds

Today, perhaps, this is the most popular variety because it represents floor coverings intended for private construction. Once installed, the user can count on the physical durability of the floor and, most importantly, the decorative effect. Polyurethane is a rare component that unites practical properties, and at the same time allows you to form beautiful externally surfaces. There are practically no restrictions for use in a private home. If desired, a polyurethane-based self-leveling finishing floor can be installed in the bathroom, kitchen or utility room. The coating will also cope with mechanical shocks and will withstand direct contact with detergents.

Pouring technique

The previous coating should be dismantled and the future base should be cleaned. If there are obvious defects in the rough surface, then it is better to first arrange the base in the form of a traditional concrete screed. After this, you can begin pouring the main composition. Typically, several components are involved in its preparation. The standard set in the package includes a hardener and an active mass - they should be mixed until the consistency of regular oil paint is obtained. The resulting mixture is distributed over the entire area so that a self-leveling finishing floor is formed without pronounced deviations in height. You can stimulate uniform distribution of the mass using a squeegee - a special bristle brush. After this, the floor structure must undergo a polymerization stage within 24 hours. Full operation of the coating is possible in 4-5 days.

Self-leveling floor brands

The construction market is oversaturated with dry mixtures for self-leveling coatings. In particular, experts recommend using products from Glims, Vetonit, Ceresit and other manufacturers. Actually, the compositions of these brands differ little from each other in terms of performance properties - almost all of them form durable, wear-resistant and aesthetically pleasing surfaces. But it is important to take into account the modification. For example, self-leveling floor finishing Vetonit 3000 will allow you to decorate the room with a spectacular layer up to 5 mm high. This composition is suitable just for a living space. If you need to obtain a high-strength coating for harsh operating conditions, then the choice should be made in favor of the Glims SS3X modification, which allows you to form layers up to 100 mm high.

Conclusion

Self-leveling coatings demonstrate an example of successful competition between flooring materials in opposite segments. On the one hand, such mixtures are similar in characteristics to those used in industry and production facilities. On the other hand, they are optimally suited for a private homeowner. True, in each case it is necessary to use finishing materials that are optimal in composition; they show that self-leveling coatings are advantageous not only because they are easy to fill, but because they are easy to maintain. Manufacturers, for example, produce compounds that do not collect dust, are easy to clean and practically do not show minor defects. As for the disadvantages, the main one is the difficulty of dismantling. If you have plans to change this coating, you should prepare to work with a hammer and hammer to remove the base.

There are dozens of manufacturers of mixtures and compositions for self-leveling floors in the Russian Federation alone. And how to choose among all this variety? suitable option? Which self-leveling floor will really be better than the rest? We have taken the liberty of introducing you to the most popular formulations. It is obvious that materials in demand simply must meet the best expectations! Here and below, all prices are given for comparison purposes only.

What to consider when choosing?

In order for you to 100% understand the variety of mixtures for self-leveling floors, we have combined all the available data into one huge table - not every reader will find the strength to familiarize themselves with it in full. But you're a persistent person, aren't you?

* By by and large we will be interested only in cement, gypsum, polyurethane and epoxy compounds. Everything else is of limited use.

TOP 10 compositions for finishing under coating

Starting to dive into the topic of self-leveling floors, you will be faced with a situation where there will be a lot more materials for simply leveling for subsequent finishing than just decorative coatings. Those. Essentially, we are talking about giving up using a classic screed, pouring out the solution, quickly leveling it, and that’s it. And this is a very convenient solution!

1. Prospectors Tolstoy – from 230 rubles. (25 kg)

Self-leveling cement-based self-leveling floor is used for leveling concrete bases, cement screed, etc. with large level imbalances. Already from the name it is clear that the solution works best when creating thick-layer coatings. The use of this material is justified in any premises, subject to subsequent finishing. The material is characterized by increased consumption, the layer turns out to be quite heavy, but this is compensated by the durability and low hygroscopicity of the mixture. We recommend using this composition in the bathroom and garage, as well as outdoors under a canopy.

2. Prospectors Quick-hardening - from 270 rubles. (25 kg)

For living quarters, in the kitchen or in the hallway, it is more convenient to use a gypsum-based mixture, such as. The solution turns out to be quite mobile, and within 40 minutes it can be rolled out over a large area, obtaining an even plane. A special feature of all gypsum mixtures is that the coating can be walked on after just a few hours, and for working on large areas it becomes possible to use mechanized pouring. In this case, according to the manufacturers, 4 hours is enough. This is a fairly popular mixture used by professional finishers.

Would you like to learn more about the capabilities of this material and see the results obtained with its help? Then be sure to watch the next video.

3. Found Skorline FK45R - from 280 rubles. (20 kg)

The mixture is made on the basis of a mineral binder with polymer additives and is intended for indoor use with normal humidity. Allows you to correct serious defects in the base - the maximum layer thickness, determined by the manufacturer, is 100 mm. The mixture is designed for concrete and cement-sand surfaces, including for pouring “warm floor” systems. The main advantage is the speed with which the coating hardens - after 2 hours you can walk on it. Tiles can be laid after 3 days, other finishing – after 7 days, the use of a base with a heated floor is recommended only after 28 days.

A short video from the manufacturer, which contains not only advertising, but also useful information about the characteristics and technology of using the Osnovit Skorline FK45R mixture.

4. Unis Horizon Universal Fast-hardening - from 270 rub. (20 kg)

Cement is used as a binder for the Eunice Horizon Universal Quick-Hardening mixture, which means that the material is suitable for use in any room, even wet ones. A successful combination of components determines high speed hardening – regardless of the type of binder, you can walk on the floor after 3 hours. Suitable for pouring onto any base that is not subject to bending: concrete slab, cement screed, gypsum coating. Can be used for any finishing materials, as well as for installation of heated floors. Like any cement mixtures, it has significant consumption, but this is largely compensated for affordable price and technical characteristics.

IN short video from the manufacturing company it is proposed to familiarize yourself not only with the capabilities of the Eunice self-leveling floor, but also with the entire cycle of work.

5. Volma-Nivelir express – from 240 rubles. (20 kg)

Using the Volma-Nivelir Express mixture, you can obtain a solution with excellent mobility and a fairly long viability. Despite the consistency of the solution, the layer formed by it hardens quite quickly - you can walk on it after 6 hours, and after a week you can start finishing. Well, one of the most important advantages: this mixture can be used in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen and other rooms.

We invite you to watch a short video advertisement from the manufacturer. Obviously, you shouldn’t expect any negativity from a branded video.

And now directly to the practice of using the mixture + there is a small comparison with the Prospector mixture.

6. Bergauf Easy Boden – from 340 rubles. (25 kg)

If you have an inexplicable desire to use a material with a “German” name, then you may well consider a floor mixture. Cement is used as a binder, which means that the self-leveling floor can be poured not only in the living room, but also in the bathroom. Like many similar compositions, it can be applied manually or mechanically, to a concrete or other rigid base, as well as a “warm floor”. For any finish, from tiles to parquet.

This type of self-leveling floor is poured a little slower. Manufacturers focus on the ease of use of the solution and the ability to save money by refusing the services of hired workers.

7. Knauf-Tribon – from 320 rubles. (30 kg)

This material was included in our list not by chance. The fact is that the manufacturer claims that the mixture can be used when pouring not only concrete, but also wooden bases, because has high bending strength. A mixture of Portland cement and gypsum is used as a binder; the coating is suitable for dry and wet rooms, subject to additional finishing. The solution has a high viability, which allows you to cover large areas at a time. You can walk on the flooded surface after 6 hours, and after a day you can even load it. For all types of premises!

What the solution does in action, including when pouring over wooden substrates - in a short video from the manufacturer.

8. Perfekta Light layer – from 270 rub. (20 kg)

The peculiarity of the mixture is the combination of low consumption, fiber reinforcement and versatility. With all this, the material hardens within 2 hours to a state in which you can walk on the floor. But more importantly, you have the opportunity to create a layer whose thickness ranges from 1 to 100 mm, i.e. its properties are somewhat reminiscent of the finishing composition. Designed for application on all types of bases with a strength of more than 10 MPa (concrete, gypsum) followed by finishing with any floor coverings.

9. BOLARS Finish SV-1010 – from 340 rubles. (20 kg)

A cement-based mixture Bolars Finish SV-1010 is used as a finishing layer for final leveling. Despite the fact that it is thin-layered, it provides high compressive strength, and after just 6 hours the surface can be walked on. But the most remarkable thing is that the composition can be used for any type of premises, as well as for outdoor work. A properly prepared solution spreads well over the surface, but its viability is low - skill is required to create a perfectly even coating.

10. Weber.Vetonit 3000 – from 580 rub. (20 kg)

More economical in consumption Weber. Vetonit 3000 (but not at a price) than its predecessor Vetonit 3000 allows you to apply the solution literally to the strip. The finished coating is not afraid of moisture, which means that the material is ideal for any interior work. It dries quite quickly - the result of the work can be assessed in a matter of hours. Great option for large premises, where the deviation from geometry is immediately noticeable. From technological features It is necessary to note the narrow temperature range of application of the solution.

In the video below you can evaluate how the prepared Vetonit 3000 solution behaves.

Editor's Choice

We analyzed the most interesting parameters of the presented mixtures and summarized everything in a small table.

For ordinary rooms, we recommend using the inexpensive mixture Osnovit Skorline FK45R. It is distinguished by a wide range of coating thicknesses and durability, allowing even a beginner to cope with the solution. For all other cases, you can choose between Volma-Nivelir Express and Perfekta Lightlayer - affordable materials with low consumption. Perfect for bathrooms, toilets, kitchens and other rooms.

TOP 6 mixtures without the need for finishing - pour it in and forget it!

Using self-leveling floors, you can create a truly durable coating that is resistant to abrasion, impact loads, and aggressive chemicals. Such floors are relevant in industry, warehouses, etc. objects. They are expensive, but the results are simply phenomenal!

11. PolyTek (PU-2340) – from 10,650 rubles. (30 kg)

The PolyTek System plant has been producing mixtures for polymer self-leveling floors since 2005. Production facilities are located in the city of Kosterevo (Vladimir region), product storage is in Moscow. Delivery is carried out throughout Russia. Resins and hardeners from certified suppliers from Germany and Korea are used in production.

To obtain a super-durable self-leveling floor, PolyTek System offers a two-component composition based on polyurethane - PolyTek PU-2340. The material allows you to create a seamless thin-layer coating within 24 hours with high levels of plasticity, resistance to abrasion, and the effects of aggressive substances.

It is especially important to quickly achieve maximum strength. At an air temperature of 20 °C, 12 hours after application the layer can withstand pedestrian traffic, after 3 days - light load, after a week - full load.

12. GLIMS HEAVY DUTY HD drymix – from 1500 rub. (25 kg) + HD disp – from 1000 rub. (4.5 kg)

An expensive, but very reliable industrial floor can be filled using a two-component mixture GLIMS HEAVY DUTY. This coating has great compressive and bending strength, so it is ideal for workshops, warehouses, parking lots, garages, etc. objects where there are heavy loads on the floor and serious demands are placed on the coating. The solution can be tinted at your discretion, so it can be not only a strong, but at the same time a decorative coating.

13. Weber.Vetonit 4655 Industry Flow Rapid – from 2000 rub. (25 kg)

On any industrial facility with heavy traffic, where there is a need for a durable thin-layer coating, the mixture can help out. Such a coating can withstand full load just a week after pouring! But this imposes some restrictions on the time of use of the solution - its viability does not tolerate errors and is about 15 minutes. But you can walk on such a floor after 2-4 hours, and the cost of the material looks more advantageous compared to the previous position.

14. ilmax 6650 – from 550 rub. (25 kg)

If we are not talking about catastrophically large loads, then you can save a lot of money by using the capabilities of the mixture for self-leveling industrial floors. Perfect, for example, for covering the floor in a garage, because... The composition is adapted exclusively for interior work. Firstly, such a solution can be applied in a fairly thick layer, hiding even serious unevenness base coat. Secondly, it is much cheaper than the above predecessors! Another thing is that such material is not on sale everywhere.

15. Monopol 5 – from 9500 (30.6 kg)

If all previous materials contained a cement binder and, accordingly, the coating turned out uniformly matte, then Monopol 5 is a polymer material with a semi-matte surface. To prepare it, you need three components: epoxy resin, dye and hardener - which are mixed immediately before pouring the floor. And its nature does not make the coating any less hard, judge for yourself: after just a week, the compressive strength reaches 64 MPa!

16. Teping Floor 205 PU – from 5600 rub. (12 kg)

Polyurethane self-leveling flooring is a two-component composition that allows you to create a durable plastic coating that can normally withstand shock and vibration loads under conditions of sudden temperature changes. The material is intended for interior work in public places and industrial facilities. Great option for unheated warehouse or garage. By default it forms a glossy finish, but the technology allows for mixing quartz sand in order to obtain a visible texture and save the main mixture.

What did we choose?

We compared essentially different products, so we have three leaders at once. And to make it clearer, everything interesting characteristics tabulated.

TOP 6 mixtures for decorative finishing - not only durable, but also beautiful!

Self-leveling floors can be not only perfectly smooth, strong and durable. They also often become one of the main elements of interior design - the space they occupy obliges them to be a dominant feature!

17. EpoxyTek (EP-2331) – from 11,100 rubles. (30 kg)

Another interesting composition from PolyTek Systems is a self-leveling floor based on EpoxyTek epoxy (EP-2331). This two-component composition can be used indoors in any premises where increased demands are placed on the strength and appearance of the floor covering. The material is tinted in mass according to the map RAL colors, used to create 3D floors.

The EP-2331 layer hardens quickly. It will take 5 to 10 days to reach maximum strength.

18. Krasko Polymerstone-2 – from 7800 rub. (20 kg)

For applying thin durable coating with a glossy surface, or, as it is also called “liquid linoleum,” you can use a two-component polyurethane solution Krasko Polymerstone-2. With all its excellent mechanical qualities, it is perfectly tinted and can become part of any modern interior in an apartment or house. It is often used to obtain perfectly smooth surfaces in public places with high traffic. It gains strength quite quickly for such a composition and can compete in cost with similar foreign-made products.

What does it look like according to the manufacturer? Watch a short video!

19. Arturo EP2500 – from 24,400 rubles. (25 kg)

- far from the cheapest material from Holland, which allows you to get a seamless glossy coating of almost any color. It can be used for any objects, from kitchens and bathrooms to kindergartens and industrial premises. To increase the thickness of the layer, it is possible to add quartz sand. This measure will also create a non-slip surface. Complete drying at normal conditions- a week.

20. Remmers Epoxy OS Color – from RUB 30,700. (25 kg)

Despite their high cost, polymer compositions are very popular in the construction of modern industrial and warehouse facilities. After all, the use of such materials allows you to forget about the need for repairs for several years, provide the surface with the necessary properties of abrasion resistance and at the same time create a perfectly flat base. The solution can also be used when installing a high-quality floor in a garage or gym - not to mention ordinary rooms in an apartment or house.

21. Tikkurila Novopox LP – from 7700 (10 l)

If you are looking for something suitable for floors in unheated rooms (for example, you need a high-quality self-leveling floor on a balcony or in a basement), then the Finnish composition Tikkurila Novopox LP can help. This epoxy coating designed specifically for concrete bases and allows you not only to protect concrete from the external environment, but also to create a beautiful glossy surface in one of dozens of colors.

22. Elakor-ED – from 11,900 rubles. (35 kg)

The transparent tinted composition, like many other materials based on epoxy resin, allows you to create a wear-resistant coating. Its relatively affordable price allows it to be used for finishing apartments. For example, they are often used to seal decorative elements(glitters, chips) or canvases to create a 3D effect. Great alternative foreign analogues!

Our choice

In fact, everything simply depends on the cost of the material. All polymer floors that are commercially available are produced using the same technologies. Difference in technical specifications There is, but it is not as noticeable as the difference in price. Our choice - EpoxyTek (EP-2331) and for glossy wear-resistant coatings and 3D floors, Krasko Polymerstone-2 for covering "liquid linoleum".

Cost of work

Everything we evaluated above is just material. We must not forget that finishers highly value their work, often no less than the solutions they use. Actually, this is what you need to start from: filling 1 sq. m of surface with a 1 mm layer costs from 70 to 100% of the cost of the material required to create such a coating. Add to this the need for milling the base, impregnation, dust removal, grinding, and the turnkey price will triple the cost of the material.

Tools and materials

The list of tools includes equipment for mixing the solution (not considered by us due to its versatility), distributing it over the surface, leveling the coating, and much more. What do you need for a self-leveling floor in your particular case?

Raklya

A squeegee (squeegee) is a special toothed spatula with a blade made of steel (for mineral coatings) or rubber (for polymer coatings). You can do without such a tool, but when you need to distribute a layer of solution over a large area, it couldn’t be more convenient. This is due to the fact that the size of the teeth allows you to achieve the desired layer thickness in a short period of time. This is especially true for solutions with low viability and mobility, as well as in the case of thin-layer coatings.

The cost of a squeegee depends on the material used, the width of the tool, and the presence of regulators for changing the thickness of the self-leveling floor layer. Thus, a wooden squeegee 56 cm wide with a replaceable steel blade will cost approximately 3-4.5 thousand rubles. A steel product with two regulators will cost more - around 4-6 thousand rubles. Well, if there is a need to vary the layer over a wide range, then a professional instrument with six regulators can cost 8-11 thousand rubles. Prices for squeegees for working with polymer compounds are usually 2-3 thousand rubles higher, due to the significant cost of a replaceable rubber sheet.

Needle roller

A needle roller is an indispensable item. Because When mixing the mixture with water and subsequent stirring, the solution is saturated with air, then this air remains there even after the floor is poured, subsequently forming pores. All this negatively affects the technical characteristics of the material. Using a roller, you can quite simply and quickly remove air by simply rolling it over the already poured mass. By the way, this tool also ensures uniform distribution of the material over the entire area.

The price depends on the width of the roller, the length of the handle and other options. One of the most affordable models with a width of 24 cm will cost you only 200-280 rubles, a width of 35 cm - around 300-400 rubles, a size of 60 cm - somewhere around 450-600 rubles.

Paintshoes

Despite its name, self-leveling flooring cannot simply be poured in and left to dry. After all, at least in order to walk over it with a needle roller, you need to trample on the mixture. Despite the fact that in many videos “professionals” wear ordinary boots, according to technology it is necessary to use special sandals - paint shoes. This is a device in the form of attached soles with spikes. Thanks to the latter, it is possible to avoid the formation of irregularities.

The cost of shoes is low, and their use for large areas of filling is quite justified - 600-800 rubles.

The damper edge tape is necessary to compensate for the expansion of the hardening mixture layer. The tape is made of foamed polyethylene and is attached around the perimeter of the room, thereby creating the necessary reserve to increase the volume of the floor and prevent the formation of cracks.

Sold in rolls of 20, 25, 50 m. The cost depends on the width, thickness, length, presence or absence of an adhesive layer. For example, prices for a roll of tape 20 m long, 50 mm wide and 8 mm thick start at around 70-100 rubles. The same edge tape, but with an adhesive layer, will cost 160-300 rubles. In practice, the savings are not worth giving up the convenience of using a material that does not require additional manipulations to attach to the wall.

Benchmarks for installing beacons by level

The benchmark is a movable steel structure, which is used in conjunction with the same device and allows you to set the beacons according to the level. The solution is quite unpopular - the cost of such devices ranges from 700 to 1000 rubles. In addition, it is difficult to find them - it is easier to do something similar yourself.

Another thing is that professionals have long abandoned benchmarks in favor of using a laser level. It's much more convenient and accurate. The asking price is from 3 thousand rubles.

About other materials that may be useful

• Chips (flocks). They are dried pieces of multi-colored paint that look impressive in a transparent layer of epoxy or polyurethane self-leveling floor. The cost varies between 1000-1500 rubles. per kg. Consumption depends on the technology and varies from 20-80 g to 700 g per square meter. m. Or in rubles it’s about 20-200 rubles. up to 700-1000 rub. per sq. m. The solution, frankly speaking, is not for everyone.
• Varnishes and paints. Usually nothing additional is applied to polymer compositions, unless this is due to some unusual design project. You can apply paint designed for concrete floors on mineral self-leveling floors - there is a huge choice here.

Just a few words about 3D floors

When looking for information about self-leveling floors in general, you will repeatedly come across proposals for the production of so-called 3D coatings. The point is to perfectly level the base, print out a canvas with a pattern, smooth it out and glue it, and apply a layer of transparent epoxy on top. The result looks impressive, the cost of work is high - from 4000-6000 rubles/m². Just as photo wallpapers were popular in their time, so today are 3D floors. We recommend refraining from such experiments in favor of single-color solutions, because as practice shows, if the pattern is too complex and does not fit perfectly into the design, it will dominate the interior, and its very presence will lead to increased fatigue.

Self-leveling floors (they are also called liquid and self-leveling) allow you to achieve an extremely flat and smooth floor surface for installation finishing coating– laminate, tiles, linoleum, etc.

Liquid floors are a unique innovative floor covering, which is made using special self-leveling mixtures. The filling procedure is not complicated at all, and therefore even an inexperienced person, having instructions in hand and everything necessary materials, will be able to properly prepare the base and pour the liquid floor.

Important! The time that passes from completion of pouring to installation of the finishing coating depends on the thickness of the filling layer. There is even special rule: A 3 mm fill must be cured for a minimum of 24 hours, and, for example, a 6 mm layer must be cured for a minimum of 48 hours.

1. Modern mixtures do not require preliminary installation of guides - the solution is leveled by the force of attraction.
2. If you use a quick-hardening mixture (classification will be discussed in more detail a little later), then the finishing coating can be laid in just 4-5 hours.
3. Even an ordinary self-leveling floor hardens several times faster than traditional ones. cement screeds, which significantly reduces the time spent on repair work.
4. If there are small potholes or cracks on the concrete base, the mixture fills them completely and thereby evens out the terrain.

Important! Most self-leveling mixtures are made on a cement basis, although there are also those that are made on a gypsum basis.

Classification of mixtures

1. Rough levelers are intended for primary screed. They are also called thick-layer because they are used for rough leveling.

   Rough floor leveler (screed) 25 kg Volma

2. Finishing levelers are a complete floor covering that does not require any other finishing. Such a coating can be painted, and you can also create various artistic compositions on it. These levelers are applied at the final stage of work thin layer.
3. Wooden floor levelers are used to restore the floor covering or create a screed. They contain special fibers that improve adhesion to wood.

   Floor leveler "NEU AUF ALT" 20 kg. Trademark: Lugato

4. Quick-hardening mixtures set almost instantly. They are applied in both thick and thin layers, and sometimes even reinforcement of the base is required.

Now - directly to the process of arranging the self-leveling floor.

Important points

First, and most importantly, the technology described below is intended for pouring floors under finishing. A regular, non-decorative self-leveling floor is not designed to be painted or used without a finishing coat, and the finishing levelers mentioned above, used for decorative surfaces, as well as the increasingly popular 3D floors - this is the topic of a separate article.

In addition, you need to work with a partner who has an understanding of the basics of the construction business. After all, if the next portion of the mixture is not mixed by the time of pouring (and this is calculated in minutes), then the coating as a result will not be smooth, but stepped.

If you do not have sufficient experience in pouring floors, then it is extremely undesirable to take on a room whose length exceeds 8 m and area is 40 m². In this case, expansion and thermal seams cannot be avoided. Making such seams is quite simple, but only an experienced builder will be able to calculate exactly where to install them.

Stage one. Audit

First, remove all the furniture and dismantle the baseboards.

Remove the old floor covering if it will not be poured onto it.

Then, using a hard-bristled brush, sweep the room several times, first wetting the surface. When the floor is dry, vacuum it. If you use household vacuum cleaner, then equip it with a “factory” or homemade (as shown in the image) dust collector to avoid damage from stone dust.

Despite the fact that self-leveling mixtures are very tolerant of the condition of the base, it (the base) should still be checked according to some parameters.

Parameter No. 1. Strength

There are many tools (both pressure and impact) that can be used to determine the strength of the base:

• ri-ri (this instrument is also called a “scratcher”);
• Schmidt hammer (it is electronic and equipped with a digital indicator);
• Kashkarov's hammer, etc.

In all cases, the testing technology is as follows: a metal tip of a specific shape and size is pressed into the surface with a certain force. And the size of the mark from the tip or the degree of deepening will become evidence of strength.

Important! At home, such precision is not required. The only thing you need to know is whether the base is suitable for pouring.

To determine this, use a roller glass cutter.

If you have not previously dealt with cutting glass, then swipe the shard several times and remember the force required to create a scratch. Then run the tool across the surface with the same force. If the resulting scratch is no wider than the roller, then no hardening is required. And if the roller fails, then surface repairs or the application of a solid primer mixture will be required.

Parameter No. 2. Humidity

To check the humidity level, take a piece of plastic film approximately 1 m². The weather should be clear, the heating should be turned off, and the room temperature should be about 20-25ᵒC. The algorithm of actions is as follows.

Step 1. Open all windows and ventilate the room for an hour.

Step 2. Close the windows, lay the film in the center of the room, pressing down the edges with slats.

Step 3. Pull the center of the film upward slightly.

Step 4. Wait 24 hours. If after this time the film remains dry, then you can safely proceed to pouring. If perspiration appears, you will have to apply the primer two or three times. And if the moisture has collected in drops, then, in addition to priming, you will have to lay a layer of waterproofing material or, as an option, start repairing the base.

Parameter No. 3. Humidity level in the room

Important for self-leveling floors absolute humidity, not physiological. If you plan to use a gypsum mixture and the floor is made of wood, then the absolute humidity should not exceed 2%. As for the hallway, bathroom or kitchen, everything is quite simple with them - the floor must be moisture-resistant, always cement-based.

Parameter No. 4. Flatness

To determine the depth of surface defects you can use:

• straight slats;
• rule with a mechanic's ruler.

Determine the proportion of defects in the total area “by eye”. But with shrinkage defects, everything is somewhat more complicated - often they are simply invisible, and appear after the calculated solution is suddenly not enough. As a result, the work was done down the drain.

For self-determination unevenness, apply a meter bubble level to different places rooms. It is typical that in most rooms there is a hole 5-7 mm deep in the center.

Parameter No. 5. Load bearing capacity

Due to the fact that the liquid floor is often poured onto a weaker base, both the load per 1 m² and wear resistance are important, as well as load bearing capacity. From this point of view, the wood is very durable, but it is still undesirable to pour the solution directly onto it - you need to lay a fiberglass mesh.

Important! Fix the mesh with silicone in increments of 20-25 cm, otherwise it will float.

If the material is porous, then under the filling you will have to install a mesh of reinforcement with rods 6 mm thick. To reduce costs somewhat, immerse the mesh in a “cushion” of sand to ½ the thickness of the reinforcement.

Parameter No. 6. Dusty

Check the dustiness of the base two to three days after the inspection, since dust removal work was previously carried out. If the room was closed during this time, and the base still began to gather dust, then clean it again and apply a layer of deep penetration liquid primer mixture.

Use a fiber roller to apply, avoid creating puddles. It is advisable to use a mixture that forms a film. After drying, try to separate the film from the surface and if it (the film) comes off, remove everything and apply the primer again. If after the second or third time the film still does not stick, then again you will have to repair the base.

Stage two. Selecting an alignment method

The maximum thickness of the self-leveling layer recommended by manufacturers is approximately 1.2-1.5 cm, although it is better to limit it to 0.5 cm due to the high cost of the material.

Usually a coarser mixture is placed under the leveling layer. Of course, such a mixture is thick and will have to be further leveled, but the thickness of the finishing layer can be reduced to several millimeters. Based on this information and the previous revision, select the alignment method (1 or 2 layers).

1. If the total unevenness of the surface does not exceed 3 mm, and the base is strong, then apply 1 layer of leveling.
2. If the room is damp, then pour a cement-based mixture, and only onto the reinforcing mesh.
3. If the room is dry and the filling will be carried out over insulating material, then pour a gypsum-based mixture, having previously installed the reinforcing mesh.
4. If the base is strong, but has significant defects, then fill in the coarse mixture first, then the level itself. It is characteristic that the depth in this case is calculated from the top of the largest convexity.
5. If the base is wooden, then first pour a 3 cm thick coarse gypsum mixture, then a gypsum-based level. Gypsum mixtures preferable because their specific gravity is approximately 20% lower than cement.

Important! You cannot apply the rough mixture only to defective areas - be sure to do this over the entire pouring area.

Video - Leveling the floor. Floor pouring technology

Stage three. Calculations and mixture selection

The consumption of the dry mixture, which is indicated by the manufacturer in kg/m², is not accurate, so it is better to play it safe and buy materials with a small margin. When purchasing, pay attention to what the manufacturer advises. You should be interested in the following parameters:

• viability, i.e. the time during which the pouring must be completed;
• maximum layer thickness;
• a period of strength gain, after which it will be possible to walk on the floor freely and lay the finishing coating.

Based on these parameters, as well as the chosen filling method, purchase the required amount of mixture.

Video - Self-leveling floor. Secrets of mastery

Stage four. Equipment and materials

In addition to the mixture itself, the work will require:

• primer;
• putty knife;
• moisture meter;
• squeegee;
• building level;
• needle roller;
• containers for preparing the solution;
• regular roller;
• electric drill, mixer attachment for it.

Stage five. Preparing the base

In fact, self-leveling floors are not afraid of anything except high humidity. Therefore, before pouring, carry out preparatory measures.

Concrete base

Fill small cracks with a primer, and check those whose width exceeds 2 mm for damage to the ceiling. If it collapses, then there can be no talk of any leveling. And if not, then make cuts, placing them perpendicular to each crack in increments of 20-25 cm. The width of such cuts should be 0.3 cm, length - 15-20 cm, and depth - about 5 cm. When filling cracks with repair solution, fill and cuts.

Next, take care of waterproofing. It is almost always needed, since zero surface humidity is extremely rare. Regular film cannot be used here, because the base must “breathe”, so best option– waterproofing

But first, cover the corners using foam tape. This material is good because it additionally forms expansion joint. Special tape for the corners you will recognize by color (it is not white) and thickness (maximum 0.5 cm). There is a groove running through the center of the tape, along which it must be bent during installation. For fastening, use only silicone, drip it in increments of 15-25 cm.

All that remains is to reinforce the base, but this has already been discussed earlier.

Wooden base

If the base is made of wood, then check the levelness, for which you can use the same bubble level. If the deviation does not exceed 1.2 mm per linear m, and the strength according to the inspection results is normal, then fill all the cracks with a special solution - mix liquid nails with sawdust to a thick consistency. Although you can use ready-made putty on wood, the main thing is that it is not water-based.

If gaps larger than 2 mm are found, drive small wedges into them and plan them flush with the base and seal with mortar. Cover the corners with foam tape. Otherwise, the procedure is no different from that described above.

Stage six. Preparing the mixture

This stage is the most critical, since most mistakes are made during the kneading process. Therefore, let's consider this procedure in more detail.

Temperature

The temperature should be within 15-30ᵒС. If it is lower, then the floor simply will not acquire the required strength, and if it is higher, then the moisture will quickly evaporate, and the mixture will not yet have time to spread.

Shelf life

This parameter is indicated on the packaging, but is usually 6-12 months. If there is no date on the bag, but only a tick next to the month, then feel free to subtract the month, since it is unclear what exact date the mixture was made.

Amount of water

Manufacturers indicate water consumption with a small gap - about 300 ml/kg of mixture. This is necessary due to the fact that the air temperature is often higher/lower than the required level. Consequently, moisture may evaporate faster/slower than at normal temperatures.

Sand

If the manufacturer does not say anything about sand, then be guided by the fact that it (sand) should be river, with fraction sizes of 0.5-0.8 mm (for a coarse mixture) and 0.3-0.35 mm (for a level ).

Capacities

The process will require four containers at once: two 30-liter ones for kneading, two 10-liter buckets for rinsing tools. It is desirable that the kneading containers have a rounded bottom.

Nozzle

As for the mixer attachment, it must be double-entry, spiral-shaped, with a round bumper at the bottom. If you use a different type of nozzle, you risk not achieving the required uniformity.

Kneading

Mix the solution in small portions - ½ bag at a time. First, fill the container with water according to the manufacturer's instructions, then add the dry mixture. When kneading, the electric drill should operate at low speeds - no more than 300 per minute. Make circular movements with the nozzle, lowering and raising the tool, but do not touch the walls. Continue mixing for about four minutes, then allow the solution to mature.

Important! Maturation should also last four minutes, after which the solution can be poured.

Stage seven. Fill

For the last step you will need an assistant. The algorithm of actions should be as follows.

Stage eight. Deaeration

Use a needle roller to remove air bubbles. As you can see from the picture, it has a special visor.

This visor is intended to protect not so much clothing as the solution. Moisture evaporates from the spray flying in the air as the roller moves, especially if the temperature is elevated. And if these splashes fall back onto the fill, then inhomogeneities will appear that cannot be corrected. And so they settle on the visor.

If the area is small, then the expensive roller can be replaced with a “pierce” - a small board with nails mounted on the handle. The “pierce” can be either pulled out or slapped on the surface.

As a result, we note that it is quite possible to cope with the creation of a self-leveling floor on your own. And if 1 m² of such a floor to order will cost about 800 rubles, then ½ of this money can be saved if you do everything yourself.

Self-leveling levelers: comparison table

Video - DIY self-leveling floors

Flawless smooth canvas without a single flaw, glossy shine, pleasant to the touch surface - all these are arguments in favor of the decision to buy finishing self-leveling floor.

Having appeared on the market relatively recently, mixtures for creating these coatings have become a real find for both builders and interior designers.

Finish floors are made on the basis of polymer or mineral components. The first type includes epoxy and epoxy-urethane compositions. Mixtures of the second type include modifiers and cement.

Polymer floors are most often used as a finishing coating. There is every reason for this:

• The material is resistant to high humidity in the building.
• Polymers are not subject to fire.
• Certified mixtures are tested for environmental safety. Therefore, they can be used even in children's rooms.
• Thanks to antibacterial components, there is no risk of mold or mildew forming. The structure consists of small pores, where dirt particles hardly penetrate.
• The coating is easy to clean using regular household chemicals. The exception is products with abrasive particles that can scratch the surface.

The final self-leveling floor is your “canvas” for limitless creativity

Among the key advantages of fine coatings, experts and buyers note good heat transfer. This great option for installation of heated floors.

But the main advantage of the finished floor is rightfully considered decorative possibilities. The monolithic seamless fabric already looks luxurious, visually increasing the space. If desired, between the base and transparent layers, you can place sea pebbles and shells, photographs and drawings, sand and gravel - whatever your imagination dictates. The interior will be unique!

We offer buy finishing self-leveling floors from leading enterprises. The affordable price will be another argument in favor of your choice.

Day by day, more and more completely new building materials are appearing. Of course, promotion of such products to the market does not happen at lightning speed. Repair is a thorough process, resulting in a stable effect on long years. Therefore, not everyone is ready to decide on an experiment and use unfamiliar material. But if the material has proven itself well, then its popularity grows like an avalanche. Such a building material as self-leveling flooring was no exception. Its popularity among consumers is constantly increasing. And an important role in this is played by the very simple and accessible technology installation of self-leveling floor. There is no need to seek help from professional builders. Provided that the instructions are strictly followed, anyone can successfully fill the final self-leveling floor with their own hands.

Features of self-leveling floor

Self-leveling flooring has a number of advantages:

• Durability. A properly poured floor will last for decades.
• Strength.

• Reacts well to sudden temperature changes.
• Not afraid of moisture.
• Resistant to all kinds of chemicals.
• Has increased fire safety.
• When heated, it does not poison the air with toxic substances.
• Excellent appearance for many years. You can verify this with the finishing self-leveling floor, the photo of which is presented below.

• The floor turns out perfectly flat. It is easy to care for. To maintain a flawless appearance, it is enough wet cleaning a couple of times a week.
• Mold and microorganisms do not multiply on the self-leveling floor, and dust does not linger.
• An undeniable advantage is the possibility of pouring a self-leveling floor over a warm floor.

Types of self-leveling floors

There are two main types of self-leveling floors:

• Polymer. Divided into:
  • Epoxy. Made from epoxy resins. They have increased mechanical strength, resistance to moisture and chemical substances. This type of self-leveling flooring is used mainly in production premises and in rooms with high humidity levels.
  • Epoxy urethane. The main places of application are areas with increased mechanical load. These are parking lots and platforms. The peculiarity of this self-leveling floor is its high strength and durability.
• Mineral. The mixture contains the following components:
  • Mineral fillers. It is on them that the characteristics of the self-leveling floor, such as plasticity, strength, and the time during which the material hardens, depend.
  • Modifiers.
  • Cement.

These mixtures have properties such as self-flowing and self-leveling. However, you still cannot do without their initial distribution over the floor surface.

Most often, mineral mixtures are used to level the floor and then cover it with other finishing materials.

There are three groups of mineral mixtures:

• Basic. Purpose - leveling unevenness and differences in concrete screed. Layer thickness up to 8 cm. Drying time about 12 hours.
• Average. Purpose - leveling cement-sand or concrete bases with a small difference in height. Layer thickness up to 3 cm. Drying time about 4 hours.
• Finish. Purpose - final alignment. It is applied provided that the height differences do not exceed 1 cm.

It is mineral mixtures that are used to fill floors in residential premises.

Manufacturers offer very wide choose mixtures for pouring self-leveling floors. Mixtures from the Economy series have a good reputation.

Self-leveling floor Econ finishing

When choosing a floor covering, pay attention to the finishing self-leveling floor Econ. Its main purpose is to level any horizontal bases and then lay floor coverings on it. Linoleum, laminate, carpet and even tile cladding can be used as flooring. The final self-leveling floor, which is installed using the Econ mixture, does not tolerate very well high humidity and high mechanical loads. Therefore it is used this type self-leveling floors mainly in residential premises.

Among the main advantages I would like to highlight:

• This type of self-leveling floor is very easy to level.
• Possibility of technological passage within 8 hours.
• Environmental Safety.

The possible layer thickness when using this mixture is 3-15 mm.

It is used at temperatures from +5 to +30°C. Although it is best to carry out work at +18 - +20°C.

The hardening time of the finished mixture is about 30 minutes.

Hardening time of coating thickness:

• from 3 to 5 mm - 24 hours;
• from 5 to 15 mm - 72 hours.

The consumption of dry mixture for filling a floor with a layer of 1 mm is 1.8 kg/m2.

Preparing the base for the final self-leveling floor

The key to correct pouring of a self-leveling floor is careful preparation of the base for pouring. A floor poured onto an unprepared base loses most of its beneficial properties.

• Clean the subfloor thoroughly. If there was any covering on the floor, remove it. It is necessary to leave only clean concrete screed.
• Vacuum the cleaned surface thoroughly. Wash her.
• Examine the concrete screed for cracks, chips, oil and grease stains. Remove any defects found from the base. Remove areas where the concrete is crumbling, areas with oil and grease stains, clean cracks from concrete chips.
• Prime all cracks and uneven areas. Cover them with any available building material: cement, concrete mortar, mastic, grout. The main thing is to achieve flat surface for filling the floor.
• Using a level, check that the base underneath the floor is horizontal. If the height differences are too large, it is advisable to perform preliminary leveling. The fact is that the smoother and more horizontal the surface, the less you will need a mixture of finishing self-leveling floor, the price of which significantly exceeds the cost of ordinary cement.
• Apply a primer to the previously leveled, cleaned and dried floor. The primer will not only close all remaining pores of the base, but will also provide more reliable adhesion of the screed to the self-leveling floor. The pores in the base must be closed. Otherwise, they will become a source of air entering the filling composition. The result is significant defects in the floor surface. Use a roller to apply the primer. Use a brush in hard-to-reach places. Don't skimp on primer. If there are a significant number of pores, it is advisable to repeat the procedure again.
• Along the entire perimeter of the prepared room and in locations doorways glue the foam deformation tape. Its purpose is a deformation or temperature-shrinkage seam. After pouring, the floor should under no circumstances be tightly adjacent to the walls. Otherwise, deformation of the building walls or an increase in temperature can lead to disruption of the integrity and appearance of the self-leveling floor. The deformation tape is removed only after the self-leveling floor has completely dried. The gap formed after its removal must be filled with sealant.

Pouring a self-leveling floor requires certain conditions:

• The air temperature should not fall below +15°C. Temperatures above +25°C are undesirable.
• Drafts are not allowed. Sudden changes temperatures lead to a deterioration in the quality of the finished mixture. An increase in temperature leads to faster hardening, and the time required to work with the solution is reduced. As the temperature drops, the solution becomes thicker, it is inconvenient to work with, and its consumption increases. In addition, temperature differences significantly affect the final characteristics of the floor: its strength, color, appearance.
• Substrate humidity of more than 4% is unacceptable. If this is not possible, treat the base with a waterproofing compound. At least two treatments will be required.

If the base is ceramic tiles, it is necessary to check the strength of its fastening, degrease it using a solvent and coat it with a primer designed for working with smooth surfaces.

But under no circumstances should you use a wooden floor as a base. Even very careful preparation does not guarantee the achievement of an acceptable result.

Pouring the final self-leveling floor, instructions

Instructions for pouring a self-leveling floor include the following steps:

• Prepare the filling mixture. In doing so, strictly follow the manufacturers' recommendations. The quality of the self-leveling floor largely depends on the correct preparation of the mixture. Resin-based mixtures are mixed with a hardener, and cement-acrylic and polyurethane mixtures are mixed with water. The mixture has a normal, easy-to-work consistency that resembles a fairly thick, but free-flowing cream. The consistency is adjusted by changing the amount of water. Don't overdo it. Too much a large number of water can cause the floor to crack. If the room is large and it is impossible to dilute the mixture for its entire coating at one time, be sure to ensure that the consistency of the mixture of different batches is identical.

Advice. The mixture must be prepared immediately before use. Already 30 minutes after dilution, most mixtures begin to thicken. By this time, it is advisable to have time to apply it to the base and level it.

• Pour the diluted mixture onto the prepared base.
• Spread the mixture over the floor surface using a squeegee or spatula, achieving the required floor thickness. Typically the thickness is about 5mm. Increasing the thickness will improve the strength of the floor. But also the consumption of materials, and accordingly final cost work will increase significantly.

• When pouring a large area, it becomes necessary to move along the freshly poured floor. This can only be done in special shoes equipped with spikes on the soles. In this case, the mixture is poured in parts. These can be stripes or squares arranged in a checkerboard pattern.
• The next step is to remove air from the mixture poured onto the base. For work, a special roller equipped with spikes is used. The length of the spikes depends on the thickness of the fill layer.

If the self-leveling floor is used exclusively for leveling and as a base for linoleum, carpet and other materials, then the work on pouring it at this stage can be considered completed. All you have to do is wait for it to dry completely.

Advice. It is believed that according to self-leveling floor You can walk within 2-3 hours after pouring. Do not do that. Let the floor dry for at least a day, and ideally 3-4 days.

If additional coating is not expected, then after complete drying, proceed to pour the finishing layer:

• Dilute the mixture.
• Pour the mixture onto the completely dry self-leveling floor.
• Spread the mixture over the entire floor surface in a very thin layer.
• Remove the air.
• Let it dry. If necessary, after complete drying, coat the finishing layer with varnish. This will not only preserve the excellent appearance of the floor for a long time, but will also significantly extend its service life.

Advice. After finishing pouring the finishing layer, try to maintain a stable temperature in the room for at least two more days. At first, the finished self-leveling floor must be protected from moisture.

The video below will help you better understand the technology of pouring the final self-leveling floor: