How to plant peonies in clay soil. Proper planting of herbaceous peonies. How to properly plant peonies in spring and autumn: soil preparation

Immediately after moving to new apartment, landscaping your open balcony, I was happy to spare no expense, so I paid a tidy sum for petunia seedlings. Then I realized: you don’t have to do this at all if you cut the flowers in time. Now there are even more bushes on my balcony, and the costs are only soil and fertilizing.

Firstly, the cutting will always convey all the charm of the variety of the mother bush. But the seeds (if you collect them at home) - no, because few people grow only one variety at once. Flowers blooming nearby become dusty, and it turns out that you had a lot of white, pink and purple flowers, and the next season they turned out “gray-brown-crimson”.

Secondly, it’s cheap - what’s more, it’s completely free.

Thirdly, such bushes will bloom almost the next week after successful rooting. And if you cut petunia in the fall, it will serve as a flowerpot in your house.

Well, and fourthly, cuttings are fast. Much faster than germinating seeds.

Winter storage of mother bushes (queen plants)

In our country, these flowers are grown for landscaping balconies or gardens. But since winters in our region are harsh, heat-loving petunia cannot survive them, turning into an annual plant. But in fact, she can live much longer.

In August (no later, so that they have time to take root well), select the bushes that you would like to preserve, dig them up and plant them in pots of sufficient volume (one bush needs 5-8 liters of soil). Yes, they will actively bloom at this time, but this is not scary. You can keep the pot in the garden or on the balcony for now.

Carry out transplantation using the transshipment method. When feeding, choose food with a minimum of nitrogen - your petunia should not “drive” foliage and shoots.

In the fall, move the pot indoors, trim the petunia (not radically - just trim off everything unnecessary in terms of the compactness of the flowerpot).

In winter, the bush needs the following conditions:

• moderate heat (from 15 to 11 degrees);
• moderate lighting (the colder the room, the further the pot can be placed from the window or lamp);
• rare watering (but so that the soil is not dry);
• 0.5 doses of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer (one feeding per month), and from the end of January - nutrition with nitrogen;
• at the end of winter you can highlight the plant using electrical appliances- this will help the flower wake up and grow shoots.

What is the difference between spring and autumn petunia cuttings?

• Spring. You have one of four: purchased flower seedlings, cuttings rooted over the winter, seedlings grown by yourself, or a mother bush that overwintered in the apartment. For good lushness of any bushes (especially seedlings), they need to be often pinched and trimmed. It’s such a shame to throw away juicy green shoots... So don’t do this, root the “guys” - the more petunias you’ll get as a result.
• Autumn. The last plants on your balcony or garden are fading. They probably look rather poor - a kind of half-withered lashes, from time to time blooming the bright petals of a late flower. But even such material (if done in time) can be used on the farm by selecting several strong cuttings, rooting them, growing them over the winter good soil and with fertilizing. By spring you will receive full-fledged planting material.

You will be explained in more detail about spring pinching in this video:

And about autumn pruning(it is carried out more often, I myself practice this type of cutting) I will tell you below.

All the subtleties of petunia cuttings

Cuttings bloom approximately 2 months after cutting. That is, having prepared them in September, already at the end of autumn you will admire the bush abounding in flowers. And by cutting the branches in March, by the end of May you will get a beauty that can already be properly planted in the ground.

When and from what bush are cuttings taken?

Don't wait for petunia to bloom: take cuttings from flowering bushes, choosing healthy, strong “individuals”.

This should be done in August - September.

The bushes you will be working with should be inspected in advance. If there is a suspicion of illness or presence harmful insects, carry out preventive spraying with special equipment. It’s better to buy this chemical once than to take the risk of bringing some nasty stuff into the house that will damage the flowerpots - and then you’ll have to get to know the chemicals very closely.

And a couple of days before pruning, water the bushes with energy drinks and other “vitamins” that will make the plant stronger.

What does an ideal cutting look like?

• About 7 cm in length (twigs that are too long take root poorly).
• With 2-4 pairs of leaves.
• Cut at an oblique angle, and not at the node, but under it (the node is the junction of the leaf with the stem or the place where there is a bud on the stem). By the way, a stem cutting can have two cuts - in this case, make the top cut straight, passing it above the node.

Cuttings of some house flowers (especially relatives of milkweed) need to be kept on the table for a certain time, allowing them to dry. But with petunia it’s different: as soon as you cut the branches, use them right away! If the guys wither, they are unlikely to move away in the future. So the maximum that a cutting cut from the stem will live is 2 hours.

What should I root in: soil or water?

Water is suitable for all petunias, except double varieties.

This rooting method has a number of features:

• form cuttings up to 12 cm;
• cut off the lower leaves - once in the water, they will rot, ruining the whole process for you;
• also, to protect the cuttings from rot, crushed activated charcoal or charcoal can be added to the water;
• use only settled water (during the day in an open container);
• It is better to germinate cuttings in an opaque cup;
• if you put a greenhouse bag on top of the cup, the process will go faster;
• keep the cutting in partial shade.

You will be able to see the roots within a week. And after 10-15 days you can plant the petunia in your own personal pot.

As for the soil, it can mean either a well-soaked peat tablet, sand or a mixture of humus and turf soil.

Your actions:

1. Moisten the soil.
2. Dip the tip of the cutting into Kornevin.
3. Plant the branch in the ground, but no deeper than a third of its length. But if you use Kornevin (or other similar chemistry), deepen the branch by a maximum of 1.5 cm.
4. Shade the pot with the cutting for 2 weeks, water it, keep it warm. If you want, you can create a greenhouse above the pot.

Despite the fact that petunia takes root well in water, it is impossible to make solid water from the soil in the pot, that is, water the cutting too often - rot will creep inside.

The roots will appear in 15-20 days. How to guess about their appearance? According to the new leaves that will grow on the petunia.

By the way, if you rooted a branch in late spring - early summer, then when you see young leaves, know: the bushes can already be planted in open ground.

Can speed up the rooting process modern goods for flower growers. For example, special phytolamps. You can hear feedback on the use of such products here:

About cuttings in a few words: results

• For propagation, you should choose healthy flowering bushes.
• Cuttings can be taken both in spring and autumn.
• The resulting material can be rooted in water and soil (peat, sand or humus + turf soil).
• Depending on the rooting method, the cutting takes 7-20 days to take root.

Propagation of petunia by cuttings is not the only, but the most popular and widespread way of growing flowers. Because of climatic conditions in our country, petunias cannot overwinter open spaces, and therefore their flowering ends with the arrival of cold weather. With the onset of the new season, experienced petunia lovers grow fresh bushes that will delight with their flowering until late autumn.

There are three ways to grow petunias:

1. Seedling. Having purchased ready seedlings, the gardener can simply plant it in suitable soil and wait for shoots. This is the easiest way to propagate petunia, but also the most expensive. Since not many amateur gardeners can afford to purchase a sufficient number of seedlings, this method of growing petunias is not very popular in our country.
2. Seeds. It is very difficult even for an experienced gardener, not to mention novice owners of front gardens. The expensive cost of seeds is just one of their disadvantages, which is complemented by the fact that half of the planted petunia seeds may simply die without ever germinating.
3. Cuttings. Among gardeners, propagating petunia by cuttings is the most popular and easiest way to obtain a viable shrub that will bloom for a long time. It is economical, quite simple and at the same time accessible even to the most inexperienced, just beginning gardener. Cutting is the growing of petunia using a cutting, that is, a shoot from an already flowering bush. With the correct cut of the cutting and proper care of the shoot, even the most inexperienced gardeners have a high chance of growing petunia.

To grow a viable petunia from a cutting, which can be transplanted into the ground in the yard when the weather gets warmer, you don’t need any special knowledge or effort. Enough to stick simple rules and observe the basic conditions for caring for seedlings.

Proper cuttings of petunias provide the grower with such advantages as:

• the opportunity to get an exact copy of the flower you like. If you take a cutting from your favorite shrub, there is a high probability that the new petunia will be an almost exact copy of the mother plant, including color;
• saving on seeds and seedlings. Financial savings are one of the reasons why petunia cuttings are the most common method of propagation among gardeners;
• accelerating the process of growing petunia. Plant cuttings allow you to get flowering petunias much earlier than when growing them from seeds or seedlings;
• obtaining a stronger and more stable plant, since cuttings help strengthen the root system of petunia.

In order to grow viable flowering petunias from cuttings, you need to choose the right time for cuttings and create all the conditions for comfortable growth of seedlings.

In order for a petunia cutting to grow into a beautiful and lush bush, you need to cut off the shoots from the already flowering plants. The optimal time for selecting cuttings is August or early autumn. If the gardener plans to plant the plant in the ground immediately after the start of flowering, then it should be remembered that the cuttings bloom approximately two months after cutting. Thus, to plant a flowering seedling in the ground in May, cuttings should be taken no later than March. One of the main advantages that petunia cuttings have is the ability to use this method of propagation year-round: when proper care the sprout will even bloom cold winter and will perfectly wait until the room warms up.

The mother bush from which cuttings will be taken must be healthy and flowering, for which it is recommended to regularly treat it with special agents against diseases and pests. All insecticides should be used only in full accordance with the instructions to avoid undesirable consequences. Immediately a few days before cutting the cuttings, it would be a good idea to feed the mother petunia bush with complex strengthening additives and vitamins, which will have a good effect on its strengthening and the appearance of new shoots.

Small shoots of petunias are cut into cuttings, and for their good rooting and survival, the following rules should be followed:

1. The length of the shoot from the mother bush should not exceed 6-8 cm, since longer cuttings take root worse.
2. It is better to choose cuttings with two or four pairs of leaves, as they will take root better during cultivation.
3. The lower cut of the cutting should be oblique and located under the node. The upper cut, on the contrary, should be straight and located approximately 1-1.5 cm above the node.
4. If you plan to use apical shoots, then it is better to cut them off immediately after the shoots have stopped growing. This will allow them to take root more securely in the ground.

Cut shoots should be planted in a prepared container with soil as quickly as possible. If the cuttings have not been planted within two hours, their ability to root is sharply reduced, which leads to the risk that the plant will not bloom.

Cuttings of petunias are carried out in two ways: in the ground or in a glass of water. Both methods of growing cuttings have their own characteristics that must be taken into account when propagating flowers.

Cuttings in water are suitable for almost all varieties of petunias except double varieties. With this method of propagation, the shoot should be slightly longer than when cutting in the ground and can have a length of up to 10-12 cm. The lower leaves of the shoots are completely removed, after which the cuttings are placed in opaque containers with water. It is very important that the water for growing petunias through cuttings is properly settled at room temperature, and therefore it is advisable to prepare a container with water about a day before cutting off the shoot.

Flower growers who do not know how to cut petunia in water usually imagine this process to be more complicated than the usual cultivation in the ground. In fact, this method of reproduction is quite simple and includes the following steps:

1. Preparing a container of water for cuttings. The container should be opaque and made of plastic or metal. It is not recommended to use glass glasses or other containers for cutting petunias in water.
2. Place the petunia cutting in a container of water. Since they do not take root well if there is not enough space, it is recommended to place several shoots in different containers. This will provide enough space for each cutting.
3. Creation greenhouse effect to speed up the process of root emergence. To do this, just cover the container with the petunia cuttings with an impermeable film or part plastic bottle.
4. Place containers with cuttings in partial shade.

The first roots appear about a week after placing the shoot in water, and after ten days it can be transplanted into open ground or into a pot.

You should carefully monitor the water level in the container during cuttings, and if there is not enough water, add more. To prevent rotting of the cuttings, you can dissolve one tablet of activated carbon in water.

Planting cuttings in a container with soil is the most common method of propagating petunias, which is simple and accessible. Effective propagation of petunia by cuttings in the ground is the result of the correct choice of shoots and selection of containers the right size and suitable soil composition.

Cuttings can be planted in the ground

Or peat tablets

It is best for petunia shoots to root in a mixture of turf soil and humus or in coarse sand. Small cuttings can also be planted in a peat tablet, which can give the shoots everything necessary substances for rooting, growth and flowering.

It is better to plant the cuttings immediately after cutting. Before placing the sprout in the ground, you need to thoroughly moisten the soil, and the roots of the cutting can be treated special means to strengthen them. This will contribute to faster and more reliable rooting and flowering of the shoot. It is not recommended to deepen the cutting into the soil by more than one third, and when treating the roots with a growth stimulator, by more than 1.5 cm, since in this case rooting will be more difficult.

To understand how to propagate petunia by cuttings, a gardener only needs to practice the following steps of cuttings in the ground:

1. Cutting off the process required length.
2. Soil preparation.
3. Planting the cuttings in a container with soil, without deepening the sprout into the soil by more than a third.
4. Place containers with petunia cuttings in partial shade for two weeks.

Take cuttings

Prepare the soil

Root the cuttings

Place in partial shade

During the entire period of growing plant sprouts, it is necessary to carefully monitor the level of soil moisture and the temperature in the room. If necessary, it is recommended to thoroughly moisten the soil, however, it must be remembered that excess moisture can lead to rotting of the plant roots.

Complete rooting of cuttings in the ground occurs approximately two to three weeks after planting.

In such a spectacular plant as petunia, reproduction occurs quite quickly. And almost immediately after rooting the cuttings, the seedlings can be placed in open ground.

When cutting petunia in the ground, you need to choose the right containers to accommodate the shoots. It is not recommended to take pots that are too cramped or place several seedlings in them at once. Cuttings of this shrub are very demanding free space, and therefore the larger the container in which the sprout is grown, the more magnificent and wider the shrub will be after planting the cuttings in open ground.

Basic rules for propagating petunias by cuttings

In order for cuttings from your favorite bush to be effective and bring desired result, any gardener must comply with the rules and conditions for growing seedlings. This includes not only right choice the cutting method or the time of cutting the shoot, but also a whole range of other conditions, under which the cuttings will not only take root well, but will also turn into flowering and lush bushes that can decorate any area.

These terms and conditions include:

• careful care of the uterine bush;
• correct choice of cuttings;
• careful cutting of the process;
• selection of containers for cuttings, taking into account the characteristics of the petunia root system;
• compliance optimal composition soil for cuttings;
• planting a petunia sprout in a container with soil as quickly as possible;
• proper transplantation of seedlings into open ground;
• careful monitoring of soil moisture in a container with petunia shoots, as well as control over the air temperature in the room. Ideal temperature conditions for sprouts, conditions can be called when the temperature does not fall below 16C° and does not exceed 24C°.

Transplant cuttings into open ground can be done immediately after rooting or flowering. Before planting, you need to carefully prepare the soil, moisten it with enough water and feed it with special additives.

Petunia can be seen everywhere: in flower beds, flowerbeds, flowerpots, balconies, just in hanging flowerpots under windows and even on lampposts. This popularity is not accidental, because it begins to bloom in the spring and does not stop doing so until frost. Perhaps the only drawback of this plant is that the seeds are too small and the same seedlings that you have to tinker with. Petunia cuttings make it possible to propagate your favorite flower without seeds.

How to propagate petunia from cuttings correctly

Many flower crops are poorly adapted to rooting shoots, so their seedlings are obtained only from seeds. The undeniable advantage of petunias is that they perfectly tolerate such a favorite and accessible method. Advantages of cuttings:

• there is no need to spend money on seeds;
• a plant grows from a cutting much faster than from a seed;
• propagation by cuttings is much easier;
• the resulting new plant is stronger than a tiny seedling.

Cuttings are the reproduction of an exact copy of the mother plant, while seeds can produce a cross-pollinated hybrid of unknown quality. Moreover, with hybrid varieties The seeds are not collected, so cuttings are the only way for them. This way the varietal properties will not be lost.

Petunia cuttings

You can take cuttings from any variety of petunias, but there are some that can only be propagated by cuttings. They are called vegetative. Vegetative petunia - what is it? This variety is characterized by the following:

• plants are distinguished by a small root system, they are able to grow abundantly, forming something like a ball;
• The color of vegetative petunias is rich, the flowers are varied in shape and color;
• do not produce seeds, or they are not suitable for obtaining a variety;
• when propagated by cuttings, they retain and transmit all the qualities of the original plant;
• have early date flowering;
• do not need pinching;
• It is possible to keep the bushes in winter at home.

The most popular varieties are:

• With flowers of bright crimson and darker centers and veins, cardinal flowers bloom profusely and for a long time.
• Papaya has flowers of a rare bright orange color, the head of flowers is so thick that the leaves are not visible;
• Cascadis Rome is undemanding in care, the flowers are dark lilac with a snow-white border, the bush has the shape of a ball;
• Frillitunia is a large-flowered variety with pink flowers, shaped like a ballerina’s tutu;
• Surfinia is resistant to diseases and does not lose its attractiveness after a rainstorm.

These bright varieties They are not demanding of light and grow normally in the shade. They bloom at 19°C and above. But the crop is demanding regarding soil moisture, so drying out and waterlogging is not allowed. The plant also responds well to regular fertilizing with complex mineral fertilizers.

Basic rules for propagating petunia by cuttings

Cuttings are a fairly simple propagation method, but there are some rules that need to be followed to ensure success.

When and how to prepare petunia cuttings

If you take bushes sown in February to cut shoots, then by the end of April you can already take cuttings from them, combining this process with the first pinching. For overwintered bushes this can be done all year round, but best time- end of summer and beginning of September.

To overwinter, the plant needs to create favorable conditions, provide artificial lighting, maintain optimal temperature and air humidity.

Important! The most unsuitable time for cutting petunia shoots is autumn. At this time, all processes slow down, and root formation may stop altogether.

What to do if you need to propagate a plant in the spring? After cutting, cuttings cannot be kept for a long time; storing them in the fall is pointless. For spring breeding It is recommended to transplant the bushes into pots in the fall, after removing old shoots and cutting young stems to 5 cm.

For winter growth of petunia at home, a temperature of no more than 10-15°C is required. If this mode cannot be supported, then backlighting is needed. Also carry out regular but infrequent watering when the leaves of the plant droop slightly. In February, the bushes will begin to grow and produce new shoots.

The most suitable time and conditions for cuttings

It is advisable to cut shoots from already flowering plants. If you care for them properly, petunia can delight the eye with flowers even in winter. The bushes from which cuttings will be taken are treated against pests and diseases. Before cutting, plants are fed with macro- and microelements. A cut shoot produces an ovary already after 2 months, so in order to plant a seedling in a flowerbed in May, the cuttings are cut in March.

To keep the mother plant at rest until spring, it is placed in the cellar and watered occasionally. Until February, petunia may be without leaves and have a lifeless appearance, but by spring it should come to life. Then the plant is transferred to a warmer place, they begin to care for it and prepare it for cuttings.

It is advisable to cut shoots from already flowering plants.

How to propagate petunia from cuttings in summer? The procedure is carried out in July - early August. This is done to preserve the variety, so as not to bring old bushes into the house. Cuttings are taken from them, and the resulting bushes are stored until spring as mother plants.

Propagation technique by cuttings

How to cut petunia, step-by-step instructions:

1. Shoots with a length of 7 to 10 cm are considered suitable for rooting. Therefore, you need to take the choice of cuttings seriously, carefully examine the shoots and choose healthy and strong ones. Priority should be given to those located on the southern side of the bush.
2. The cut is made under the lower bud. It should be oblique.
3. There should be 2 - 3 internodes on the cuttings. The top of the cutting must be pinched so that the seedling does not stretch out in the future.
4. The lower leaves of the shoot should be removed, leaving 1-2 pairs of upper leaves.
5. It is advisable to immediately place the cut cuttings for rooting or to minimize the time between cutting and planting.

Cut shoots are rooted in two ways:

In water

How to cut petunia at home? The method of rooting in water is most suitable for this. The cuttings should have a length slightly longer than for rooting in the soil - at least 10 cm. A length of 14 cm is allowed, no more, since elongated shoots will take too long to take root. After removing the lower leaves, the cuttings are placed in glasses with cooled boiled water, 3 to 4 pieces each.

Important! It is better to use dark containers; transparent glasses can be wrapped in paper or cloth so that they let in less light.

If the air in the room is dry, then the cups need to be covered on top plastic bags or cut bottles. This is necessary, especially in the first days after installation, when the rudiments of the roots have not yet formed. There is no need to change the water, just add it during the process. When rooted in winter time sprouts need lighting. Drafts are also undesirable for seedlings.

Important! Terry petunia is not suitable for rooting in water, as it does not produce long shoots.

In the ground

The method is also simple and accessible, provided that the growing and cutting of cuttings was carried out correctly.

Cutting shoots stimulates new growth

Soil for planting can be purchased at the store or made independently by mixing garden soil, humus and sand. A freshly cut cutting is planted in a pot with well-moistened soil. It is most convenient to stick each cutting into a separate container so that the sprouts are not intertwined with roots and can then be easily planted on permanent place. When planting in common large containers, you need to leave a distance of 2.5 - 3 cm between plants.

Important! Cuttings are planted at an angle of 45°. It is not recommended to deepen the cutting by more than one third of its length, and if the sprout has been treated with a growth stimulant, then no more than 1.5 cm.

Containers with planted sprouts are placed in partial shade for 15 days. For the first time, a mini-greenhouse made from a cut-off plastic bottle will be very useful.

Important! The soil in containers should neither dry out nor contain excess moisture. If the soil is over-moistened, the roots may rot, but they do not form in dry soil.

Petunia takes root well at a temperature of 24−26°C. When the daylight hours are short, it is illuminated fluorescent lamps so that daylight hours are 16 - 17 hours.

It is better to take cuttings of terry petunia in the summer, since before this time shoots of the required length will not yet grow on it. Ampelous varieties immediately begin to grow long stems, so they are suitable for the procedure all year round and in any way. Cutting shoots stimulates the growth of new ones, so it not only does not harm the plant, but even benefits it.

Ampelous varieties can be propagated by layering. To do this, dig the stem, retreating 5 - 6 pairs of leaves, into the internode. A little later, roots will form at the digging site. After rooting, the sprout is cut off and then proceed in the same way as with a rooted cutting. After about 7 days, roots should appear on the stems, and after 10 days it is ready for replanting. First, it is better to transfer the sprout into a container bigger size and keep it in greenhouse conditions for another 2 - 3 weeks, and then plant it in open ground.

Growing a plant from a cutting

When the sprouts have taken root and they have 2-3 pairs of leaves, the bush needs to be pinched. 15 days after planting in a new place, pinching is carried out again.

It is recommended to transplant rooted cuttings into open ground at 15°C

It is recommended to transplant rooted cuttings into open ground when the air temperature reaches 15°C. After planting, the bushes are fed. This procedure is carried out approximately once every 2 weeks throughout the growing season.

Important! Petunia is susceptible to fungal diseases such as blackleg, powdery mildew, but if you strengthen her immunity with feeding in time, she is able to resist illnesses.

Advantages and disadvantages of cuttings

Propagating petunia by cuttings in summer, spring or autumn is much simpler and more reliable than growing it from seeds. The advantage of this method is that it starts flowering much earlier. In addition, there are many varieties, the most valuable and beautiful, that can only be grown using this method.

Important! When planting seedlings in a permanent place, several plants can be left in pots and used for cuttings as mother bushes for the next year.

The only downside can be the fact that many more plants are obtained from seeds than from cuttings. But this matters when growing seedlings on a mass scale, and for home breeding A couple of bushes are enough.

Having learned how petunia reproduces, any gardener will definitely want to try this simple method. If you do everything correctly, then throughout the summer you can enjoy the beauty and aroma of these wonderful flowers!

Petunia is one of the most favorite plants of many gardeners. Petunia flowers are large and bright, which is perfect for both gardening and outdoor use. home grown. But there is one problem that can cause inconvenience: petunia produces very few seeds and most of them do not germinate in the future, so propagating the plant with seeds will not bring success, but will only take up precious time.

The advantage of cuttings over other types of propagation

The best method of propagating petunia is cuttings.

Cuttings are one of the vegetative methods. Thanks to it, it is possible to grow any type of plant in a short time without high costs.

Some species can still be grown using seeds that go on sale. But you need to very carefully monitor the technology and properly care for the entire period, from sowing to transplanting seedlings to a permanent place.

Each flower is propagated by cuttings at a certain time:

• As for petunia, the same favorable time- This winter period.
• It won’t be any worse if cuttings are carried out until May, but it’s better not to wait until it gets hot.
• Terry varieties tolerate warm weather better. For example, calibrachoa can be taken from cuttings all year round, the most important thing is to provide access to light and maintain favorable conditions.

To choose the most optimal time for propagation, you need to find out more about a specific variety. Vegetative propagation It is used both for young plants and for more mature ones; they take both individuals and last year’s bushes.

For petunia cuttings, it is better to choose the largest and healthiest plants.

For example, for growing double varieties, individuals with the largest and brightest flowers are selected.

By the end of August, petunias are removed for storage; for this you will need:

• Dig up the plant along with a lump of earth; the plant is transplanted into separate pots, the diameter of which must be at least 15 cm
• The plant will survive the winter easier if you trim off old shoots.
• The temperature of the room in which the queen cells will be stored should be constant and be around 10 degrees.
• If the room temperature exceeds 15 degrees, then the petunias will need to be illuminated for up to 12 hours every day. That is, the lower the temperature of the room in which the queen cells overwinter, the less light they will need.
• It is important to ensure favorable moisture and thermal conditions.
• The air should not be dry, and the soil should not be too moist.
• need to be provided only when the leaves begin to fall.
• The plant does not need fertilizing; only occasionally you can apply force and potassium fertilizers.
• In winter, petunia does not look very attractive, but this does not mean that it has begun to fade; by spring the plant will again acquire its former bright appearance.

As for hanging varieties, it is better to plant them in separate pots in the spring and transfer them to a cool room when the first cool days arrive. For these plants it will be much easier without summer replanting.

Before moving petunia into the house, the plant must be treated with pesticides.

When autumn and winter have passed, you need to start thinking about propagating the plant.

To get started you need:

• Cut from the mother specimen apical cuttings, each approximately 10 cm long.
• All leaves can be removed from the cuttings, except for the top two, which are only cut in half.

You can't call it petunia unpretentious plant, therefore, each operation with it must be carried out strictly according to the instructions.

• In order for the root system of the plant to be well formed, the cuttings need to be dipped for some time in a solution with phytohormones.
• Because root system Since petunia is very powerful and dense, you should not neglect caring for it, since it is the roots that will influence the further development of the flower.
• After this, the cuttings are planted in boxes with wet sand or loose soil, planting depth is 4 cm. The cuttings need to be planted close to each other, literally 2-3 cm from each other.
• Then you can press the soil with your hands and water it.
• The box should be placed in a bright place, first covered with film or glass.

Key points to follow when propagating petunia:

• You cannot use the same soil when re-propagating a plant.
• Daylight hours should last at least 10 hours; a fluorescent lamp will help with this.
• Cuttings need to be sprayed 2 times a day
• During hot weather the plant, in moderate weather once, the soil should be constantly moist
• Cut cuttings should not be kept on outdoors, they need to be transplanted into the ground immediately
• The temperature of the room in which young plants will grow should be within 20-25 degrees.

Within a week the plant will produce its first fibrous roots. Petunias should be replanted into separate pots after the first leaves appear. Care is provided in the same way as for seedlings. If the plant begins to mold, then watering should be stopped for a while, the box should be moved to a well-ventilated room, and the dead leaves should be cut off.

Modern hybrid forms are considered especially demanding among petunias. At low temperatures they do not germinate, and at high temperatures they grow too quickly, but often get sick.

To ensure petunia grows healthy and bright, it is recommended to add potassium permanganate to the spraying water.

Within a week the plant will produce its first leaves. At this point, it is worth removing the glass or film. The material must be removed gradually, since the plant is still too weak and not accustomed to the environment.

To start:

• The cover is removed for 10 minutes a day, gradually increasing the time until full leaves are formed.
• It will be much more convenient for the plant to develop in an individual container, it will be healthier, and it will be much easier for the owner to transplant it into open ground.
• To strengthen the root system and protect the flower from the “black leg”, when picking, the seedling goes deep down to the leaves themselves.
• The younger the plant, the more carefully it needs to be watered; this should be done carefully right under the root.
• The young plant needs to be hardened off; to do this, 2 weeks after the first leaves appear, you need to open the window for 10 minutes, gradually increasing the time.

However, we are not talking about drafts or direct flows of cold air; on the contrary, this can destroy the plant. That is, the temperature of the surrounding air should decrease, but not the seedlings.

Key points for caring for petunia:

• It is necessary to provide the plant with light as often as possible, even at night it is recommended to turn on dim lights
• It is necessary to ensure that a crust does not form on the soil, otherwise the access to oxygen will be blocked and the plant will suffocate.
• If the root system develops quickly and fills the entire plant lump, then you need a large container; it should not be crowded
• When growing rare, expensive varieties, it is additionally worth using peat tablets

The secrets of abundant growth and flowering of petunias

It is better to choose or prepare it yourself based on peat; such soil will provide high-quality drainage and provide good recharge. The soil must contain elements such as potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen. To prevent blackleg, it is recommended to water the substrate with a previcur-fungicide. If such a drug and its analogues are not available, then it is replaced with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Most best option from what the market provides is a universal substrate. It contains natural pure peat and a large number of organic substances.

For the first two weeks, seedlings and seedlings are not fertilized, but only. It is important to prevent the soil from drying out; the “wet-dry” cycle must be observed.

You can apply fertilizer after transplanting the plants into a large container; this is done when several leaves appear.

When, you can add a small amount of yellow crystallon or any other universal fertilizer(1 tablespoon per bucket of water). At the pharmacy you can buy vitamins B1, B12 and microelements uniflor micro for spraying.

The older the plant becomes, the more fertilizer can be applied, up to 3 times a week.

You cannot apply fertilizer and spray the leaves on the same day; these procedures must be alternated.

Water for irrigation should be as pure and soft as possible, the most the best option– rain or snow, the water temperature should be several degrees higher than the soil temperature.

When using dirty, hard water, there may be changes in the structure of the substrate, death of roots and leaves due to salt, accumulation of toxic ions, failure to absorb fertilizers, poor growth, etc.

More information can be found in the video.