home · On a note · The onions in the garden began to turn yellow, what should I do? How can you water the onion so that the feather does not turn yellow? Simple rules for preventing yellowing of onion feathers

The onions in the garden began to turn yellow, what should I do? How can you water the onion so that the feather does not turn yellow? Simple rules for preventing yellowing of onion feathers

We have long been unable to imagine our life without such a crop as onions. Naturally, we often add green feathers to salads and main dishes, and it also has medicinal properties. Unfortunately, even experienced vegetable growers are faced with the problem of yellowing onion leaves. If we see this happening by early September, it doesn't seem to be a problem. This means the harvest is ripe. But it becomes a shame when the onions are not yet ripe, and the tips have already turned yellow.

Improper care

Caring for onions is very simple: you need to regularly loosen the soil, remove weeds and apply fertilizer. Loosening the beds is important, because if a soil crust appears, the roots will not receive the required amount of air. Plants begin to slow down their growth and yellowing of the leaves becomes inevitable.

As soon as the first bores appear, loosening should be carried out. Make sure that the plants are not covered with soil, otherwise the feather will grow greatly and the bulb will grow small.

Ideal conditions for onion ripening: it is necessary that only the roots are immersed in the ground, and the onion is exposed to light and air. In practice, this is difficult to achieve, especially in open ground conditions.

Yellowing of onions is also caused by non-compliance with the basic rules of watering, because this plant is very demanding on the frequency and quality of watering. The first two months of growth are fundamental; it is during this period that all important parts of the culture are actively formed. It is recommended to moisten the beds before and after weeding. You can build small furrows between the rows, this way you will not damage the roots. You cannot overwater the plants; it will be enough to water them five times a month, but generously, so that the soil gets wet to a depth of 20 cm. When the top layer dries, it is worth loosening the soil. In the last two months before harvesting, it is recommended to stop watering so that the onions can mature and be convenient for harvesting.

Deficiency of nitrogen-containing fertilizers

The tips of onions may turn yellow due to low nutrient content in the soil, especially nitrogen.

Nitrogen deficiency occurs during drought. Excessively wet weather also has a negative impact on yields, as prolonged rains wash away nitrogen. Onion leaves grow slowly, harden, become thick and soon turn yellow. If you notice this phenomenon in the garden, it is better to apply fertilizers that contain nitrogen.

Fits:

  • urea (carmabide);
  • ammonium sulfate;
  • ammonium nitrate;
  • mineral fertilizers;
  • organic fertilizers (chicken manure, slurry);

Pest infestation

An important part in growing onions is the control of various pests. Let's consider the main ones and methods of elimination:

  1. Onion fly. She lays eggs under dry onion scales, on the soil. The larvae penetrate the bulb and feed on the fleshy plates. Soon the leaves turn yellow, wither, and the bulbs rot. The smell of carrots repels flies, so it is wise to plant onions next to them. Another solution: water the infected area with table salt once or twice a month (solution: dilute 200 g of salt per 10 liters). You can also pollinate the area with products that repel this pest (a mixture of lime and tobacco dust).
  2. Onion thrips. It feeds on the juice of leaves and inflorescences. As a result, they become distorted and turn yellow. To prevent infection, it is necessary to alternate cultures, disinfect the bulbs in hot water (40-50 degrees) for 10 hours, then cool cold water. Soak the onions with a 2% sodium nitrate solution for 24 hours. After harvesting, dry the crop for 6-7 days at a temperature of 34-37 degrees.
  3. Onion moth. The pupae overwinter under plant debris and in the spring lay eggs on the neck of the bulb. The newly born caterpillars gnaw on the stalks and pulp of the leaves. To combat it, it is enough to weed the weeds, loosen the soil, and fertilize the plants.
  4. Onion mite. They overwinter in the bulbs, damaging them from the bottom. To avoid this, you need to warm the onions in hot water for 10 minutes before planting. Harvest in dry weather, dig up the soil in the fall and dry the onions for 7-10 days at a temperature of 31-35 degrees.
  5. Onion secretive proboscis. Having survived the winter, the beetles gnaw holes in the onion leaves, stick their proboscis in and eat the cavities, then lay eggs inside. Within 20 days, the larvae are born and eat the pulp without damaging the skin. As a result, the leaves turn yellow and dry out. Pruning affected leaves, loosening the soil when pupation occurs, and collecting plant debris will help cope with this scourge.
  6. Stem nematode. They are content with the juice of plants. At the same time, onions grow poorly, Bottom part bends and becomes thicker. If the area is infected, you can plant onions on it after 3-5 years. It is recommended to carefully select planting material. Heal the bulbs by soaking them for 2-3 days in water at a temperature of 15-18 degrees or heating them for 4-5 minutes in hot water (54-56 degrees).

Infection with diseases

Diseases can also harm onion yields.

  1. Downy mildew. The fungus that causes the disease spends the winter in the bulbs. Infected bulbs do not look different from healthy ones, but a few weeks after planting, their leaves quickly turn yellow and become lethargic, and traces of mycelium appear. This infection develops in humid weather. The disease is transmitted when onions are treated with air flow and raindrops. The methods of control are simple: you do not need to return the crop to the affected area for 2-4 years. Plant in early dates sparsely and in well-ventilated areas. Avoid fertilizing with manure and apply high doses of nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Warm up the planting material for 7-8 hours at a temperature of 35-40 degrees, carry out this procedure two months before planting in open ground.
  2. Cercospora blight. A fungal disease that overwinters in plant debris and seeds. Appears as grayish spots on the leaves. Spreads with raindrops and wind during the growing season. To avoid this, it is recommended to spray the plants with the preparation “Fito-plus” or “Fitosporin”. After two days after treatment, the bulbs can be consumed. Also popular solution copper sulfate, copper oxychloride. But in this case, eating bulbs is strictly prohibited for 2-3 weeks.
  3. Anthracnose. It appears on the leaves as black pads spreading in concentric circles; they turn yellow and become deformed. Sources of the disease are contaminated seeds and plant debris. Counteraction methods are similar to those for powdery mildew.
  4. Cervical rot. Bulbs are affected by this disease during storage. Mostly, manifestations are observed after a rainy summer; the crop begins to rot and does not last long. To avoid this disease, it is necessary to carry out pre-planting heat treatment of seeds or bulbs (warm up the planting material for 7-8 hours at a temperature of 35-40 degrees), and also during growth, avoid waterlogging of the soil and do not forget about loosening.
  5. Bottom rot. Often this fungal disease is provoked by the onion fly, which infects the onions. During storage they rot. To prevent the disease, you need to clean the bulbs from scales; if infected ones are found, you should treat them with “Fitosporin” and dry them before storing.
  6. Smut. The causative agent is a fungus, the manifestation occurs in the form of black stripes between the onion blades. It is recommended to remove scales from onions before storing, because the spores of this fungus are stored between them.

Unsuitable climatic conditions

Onion is a plant that is not too demanding of warm weather. Germination and development can begin even at 5 degrees below zero. When the bulbs are young, they can withstand light frosts (2-3 degrees), but adults will freeze at this temperature.

This plant has significant demands for moisture. With its deficiency, the bulbs grow small and the yield is reduced. Therefore, in arid climates, this crop can develop normally if it is watered abundantly.

If soil moisture is increased throughout the entire period of onion growth, the plants grow greatly and growth is delayed, so the crop may not ripen by the time of harvest.

If you want large onions, you should give the plant a place well lit by the sun; lack of light has a bad effect on the development of the bulbs, which in turn leads to yellowing of the feathers.

Failure to comply with agricultural practices and ignoring preventive measures becomes the main reason why onions may turn yellow. Either complete or partial yellowing of the leaves is observed. At the same time, they look lethargic and weakened. The situation may threaten a complete loss of the onion harvest.

A common reason why onions turn yellow is a lack of nitrogen in the soil. Its deficiency usually develops when the soil is depleted or in hot weather. Onion roots receive nitrogen only in dissolved form, and in dry weather it stops reaching the plants. On the contrary, excessive soil moisture or frequent rains can lead to leaching of nutrients from the soil.

With a lack of nitrogen in the soil, the plant slows down its growth, the feathers become short and thick. First, the color of the lower leaves becomes pale green, and then the young feathers turn completely yellow. A lack of nitrogen can also lead to bottom rot.

To avoid shortage nutrients in the ground, it is necessary to fertilize in a timely manner. A solution based on urea or ammonium nitrate and an infusion of manure is suitable. The components must be dissolved in water so as not to burn the roots. The procedure can be repeated after 5–6 days.

Influence of pests

Onions often turn yellow as a result of pest attack. They not only suck the juices from the plant and gnaw on the greens and roots, but also carry various infectious diseases.

Why are onion moths dangerous?

The onion moth is a small butterfly (body length about 8 mm) of a dark brown color with light gray wings. At the end of spring, females begin to lay eggs at night on the soil near the bulbs or between the leaves. After 7–8 days, yellow-green caterpillars emerge from the eggs, 1 cm long.

Great damage from insects is observed, especially in dry, hot weather. The leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out at the tips, and light spots may appear.

What to do if the onions in the beds turn yellow due to the activity of onion moths? The effect of drugs such as Iskra, Dachnik, Metaphos is effective. Treating the soil with wood ash and tobacco dust helps repel pests. Sevok should be sown as early as possible. It is recommended to remove all plant debris from the site in the fall and dig up the soil before the onset of frost.

Onion thrips

Onion thrips is a small yellowish insect, about 1 mm long. It sucks the juices out of the plant, causing the onion feathers to turn yellow and dry out. The female lays eggs in the leaves, from which gray-yellow-green larvae emerge after 5–6 days.

Thrips, like onion moths, overwinter in the soil, burrowing into the remains of vegetation or in bulbs that are intended for sowing. That's why preventative measure is the autumn digging of the site with the application of fertilizers and cleansing of the remaining tops. Before planting, the sets must be disinfected by placing, for example, in weak solution potassium permanganate or dip in hot water(water temperature about 45 degrees) for 10 minutes. If a pest is detected in the garden bed, it is treated with insecticides (Iskra, Konfidor).

Onion fly and how to destroy it

The most common pest of onions is the onion fly, which affects any of its varieties. It resembles an ordinary fly, the body length reaches 8 mm, the color is gray-yellow.

In mid-May, when dandelion and lilac begin to bloom, the female of this insect begins to lay eggs in the soil near the onion beds, less often between young leaves or between dry scales of the bulb. After just 6 days, the larvae that emerge from the eggs begin to eat the bulb from the bottom. Feathers start to cover yellow spots, and soon the entire plant dies.

The larvae develop within three weeks. They then burrow into the ground and pupate. After some time, new individuals appear, approximately at the end of July.

  • early planting of onions;
  • it is recommended to plant carrots in the neighborhood;
  • During the summer, flies in the beds are treated with a mixture of wood ash, tobacco dust and ground pepper;
  • The drug Bazudin, which is mixed with sand and added to the soil, helps repel insects.

If the larvae have already begun their destructive activity, treatment with the preparations Kreotsid, Muhoed, Aktara, Karate Zeon will help. Onion processing is effective saline solution with a few drops of ammonia (200 g of salt should be dissolved in 10 liters of water).

Stem nematode

Stem nematodes, like onion flies, lead to yellowing of leaves and loss of yield. The nematode resembles a small worm (1.5 mm in length) that penetrates the bottom of the onion. Insects feed on the sap of the plant. The bulb begins to rot. White dots and stripes appear on the feathers, then the onion leaves turn yellow, curl and dry out.

It is difficult to fight the nematode, so the only thing that can be done is to follow some rules:

  • treat planting material with saline solution or hot water;
  • It is recommended to plant onions in the same area no earlier than after 4 years;
  • You can plant marigolds between the rows; an infusion of these flowers also helps;
  • Timely weeding should be carried out.

If the onions in the garden have turned yellow due to pests remaining in the soil, then the row spacing can be watered with a solution based on Fitoverm or Akarina powder. The drugs are toxic, so it is not recommended to use them too often.

The secretive weevil and the fight against it

The small-sized secretive beetle feeds on green onion leaves. His body gray, oval shape. In spring they begin to eat young shoots. After laying eggs, beetle larvae appear within 2 weeks and begin to eat the greens. The larvae are yellowish in color with a brown head, about 6 mm long. First, white spots appear on the leaves, and then the onion feather in the garden turns yellow and dries out.

Preventive measures are:

  • digging the soil in the fall after harvesting;
  • clearing the area of ​​plant debris and weeds in the fall;
  • It is recommended to plant onions annually in a new place.

If this insect appears in the beds, you need to loosen the rows with the addition of tobacco dust, wood ash or ground pepper. If there are not too many pests, you can collect them manually. Spraying with a solution based on the drug Karbofos helps destroy pests.

What is wrong with onions?

Onions turn yellow not only due to the invasion of insect pests. Very often, fungal, bacterial and viral infections can spoil the harvest.

Rust

Rust is a fungal disease of onions. It affects green leaves, resulting in insufficient nutrients reaching the bulb, and the yield is reduced.

First, yellow-brown stripes or spots appear on the leaves, which grow over time. The disease leads to complete yellowing and drying out of the green part of the onion.

Preventive measures mainly concern planting material, which needs to be heated and disinfected. If a problem is found onion beds sprayed with a solution based on copper oxychloride. The component is diluted in a bucket of water and 30 ml is added liquid soap. You can use the drug Hom or Metronidazole.

Bulb rot caused by bacteria

Bulb rot can only be noticed on the harvested crop. The affected heads soften and dark stripes can be found between the scales. Such bulbs cannot be stored. This onion disease is carried by insects.

Only healthy, dense bulbs are selected for planting. The soil is treated with Hom or Metronidazole. If you plant an affected seedling, the plant will grow weak. Young leaves immediately turn yellow and dry out.

Fusarium, bottom rot

All varieties of onions can suffer from a fungal disease such as fusarium. First, the onion feathers turn yellow, curl, and then dry out completely and the plant dies. On the bottom and in the axils of the leaves you can notice a white or light pink coating.

The following actions can be used to prevent damage to the bottom rot:

  • the area for planting onions should be on a hill and well lit;
  • You should not plant onions in the same area for several years in a row; grain crops are considered the best predecessors;
  • you need to plant vegetables and harvest on time;
  • seeds are selected and disinfected before planting.

When the first signs of the disease appear, treatment with Fitosporin and Quadris will help.

Alternaria blight

Another fungal disease that affects onions is Alternaria. Green feathers are affected first. They develop white spots that turn brown over time. Gradually, the disease spreads to the bulb, it becomes covered with black mold and rots.

Such preparations as Acrobat, Cabrio Duo, Polyram, Fitosporin will help save onions from yellowing of the feathers. In the fall, after harvesting, all tops and husks are removed from the garden.

Failure to follow the rules of onion care leads to yellowing of the feather

If you don't care for it correctly vegetable plantings, then they become weak, lethargic and the leaves change color. Watering and fertilizing must be carried out in a timely manner and in certain quantities.

Insufficient or improper watering

With proper watering, the onion head is formed dense, juicy and for a long time stored. In the first days, when the onion is just taking root, you need to water it generously every three days. Then watering is reduced to once a week. In July, when the head is forming, it is enough to water once every 1.5 weeks.

Water for irrigation should be warm (about 20 degrees) and it is better to pour it under the root. The best time for watering is considered early morning or evening hours. If the weather is cloudy, then it is possible at lunchtime.

Onions love moist soil, but excess moisture can lead to stunted growth due to leaching of micronutrients, rotting and the spread of infections. In addition, the onion head is small and tasteless.

Another reason why normal conditions caring for the plant, the leaves turn yellow, weather conditions change. Return of frost, drought or heavy rains can affect the quality and quantity of the harvest.

Lack of feeding

It is recommended to fertilize during watering. The first application of fertilizers is carried out two weeks after planting. You can make a solution from ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and potassium salt. The next application of fertilizing is carried out after another two weeks.

What to do?

There are many ways to deal with onions that turn yellow, dry out and die. The main thing is to recognize the cause in time.

Folk remedies for yellowing feathers

If pests are the cause of yellowing onions, then help folk remedies:

  • One ampoule of ammonia, 200 g of ordinary table salt and 200 g of wood ash are dissolved in 10 liters of water. It is recommended to water the beds with the resulting solution after 10 days, until the leaves turn green again.
  • Dissolve 1 kg of soda, 10 ml of iodine and 4 bags of potassium permanganate in a bucket of water. The finished concentrate is diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio and the beds are watered. The solution is enough for a large planting area.
  • Plant infusions are prepared from dandelions, wormwood, calendula, and hot pepper.

As a preventative measure, you can water the rows with salt water or sprinkle them with a dry mixture of tobacco dust, wood ash and ground pepper.

Chemical plant protection products

In the event of a mass attack of pests, due to which the onions have turned yellow, chemical spraying is carried out. Among the popular and effective: Mostilan, Iskra, Aktara, Karbofos, Leptotsid, Kreotsid.

To prevent onions from turning yellow, you can prevent a lack of nitrogen in the soil by adding urea or ammonium nitrate. Between the rows of onions, grooves are dug and 6 grams of ammonium nitrate per 1 square meter is poured. m.

How to water the beds to effectively combat yellowing of leaves? Most vegetable growers use salted water. A mixture of wood ash and carrot seed powder gives a good effect. You can treat the beds with wood ash or chamomile pollination. If the onion turns yellow, you can feed it with complex fertilizer.

Many gardeners different regions They are faced with one problem: with proper care, onion feathers, instead of growing and turning green, begin to turn yellow, wither, and dry out.

Gardeners are worried about how to treat onions when the feather turns yellow, in order to stop the process and prevent crop loss.

It is necessary to identify the cause of yellowing and eliminate the problem in a timely manner so that the valuable crop is not completely spoiled. The problem is especially acute when selling.

Why do onion feathers turn yellow?

It turns out that onions have many diseases and pests, causing yellowing pen:


By eliminating or preventing the cause, you can ensure that the onion grows healthy and wait for a good harvest.

Folk remedies for treating onions from yellowing feathers

Simple, safe folk methods to help maintain health garden plants, are available to every gardener.

If the yellowing of the feather occurs due to an attack by onion fly pests, the following solutions are prepared to treat the plantings:


Watering the onions when the feathers turn yellow is done so that the solution gets only on the bulbs and not on the feathers. For preventive purposes, onion rows are watered with salted water with the addition of several manganese crystals.

Nematodes will be perfectly repelled from the garden when planted between rows or along the perimeter. The onion fly does not like the smell; planting vegetables can be combined, thus protecting the onion from the pest.

Chemical plant protection products against bulbous pests

When beds are massively populated by pests folk ways fighting them is not enough, then you have to resort to help chemicals: yellowing of the feather is usually observed at the end of May; when it is detected, the following drugs are used:


The solution is prepared according to the instructions and used on plantings, trying to process the onions when the feathers turn yellow, in the morning or evening in calm weather.

What to do if the cause of yellowing feathers is onion disease?

To reduce the likelihood of onion disease, they try to purchase healthy planting material for sowing and carry out preventive treatments on seeds or bulbs:


The bed prepared for planting onions is pre-treated with a solution of copper-containing preparations or biological preparations Alirin-B, Fitosporin-M, Trichodermin. Prevents vegetable diseases by maintaining crop rotation, old place Onions can be returned after planting after 4-5 years.

How to eliminate yellowing of onion feathers due to lack of nitrogen?

This is a fairly common reason that leads to lodging and yellowing of feathers; it can be eliminated by fertilizing the bed with nitrogen-containing preparations:


You should not get too carried away with adding nitrates, so as not to cause active growth of green mass and not to inhibit the formation of bulbs. To treat onions when the feathers turn yellow with organic matter, you can prepare your own liquid fertilizer containing not only nitrogen, but also other nutritional elements important for plants:

  1. Pour into a container (basin, bucket, barrel, etc.) rainwater, exposed to the sun.
  2. Pawned green grass(preferably without seeds), hay, food waste of plant origin.
  3. Sugar and old jam are added to speed up the fermentation process.
  4. The mass is periodically stirred until it ripens (the appearance of a characteristic odor).

A liter of the resulting mixture is added to a bucket of water, and the beds are watered on moist soil at intervals of 7-10 days.

Experienced gardeners share the simplest tips on what to do when onion feathers turn yellow:

Kira Stoletova

How to water onions so they don't turn yellow? The answer to this question must be sought in the conditions of planting and caring for the plant, in the root cause of the green arrow disease.

  • No garden is complete without bulbs and juicy green onions. Caring for the plant is simple, and even a novice gardener knows how to water the crop. Onions are rarely susceptible to disease and do not require constant watering, but sometimes even with an unpretentious culture disaster happens.

    The onion is turning yellow, what should I do?

    In demand and healthy vegetable- an integral “resident” of any garden. In the bed of a skillful housewife, several varieties grow at once, which do not need to be watered every day. Easy care and a stable harvest are the two main reasons why onions are planted in large and small areas. The root crop and succulent feather are valuable. Watering is carried out together with neighboring crops. You can feed the onion with the simplest homemade fertilizer. Good nutrition will protect the crop from various pests and diseases. Fertilizer is prepared from humus and peat (sometimes fertile soil is added). It is best to water fertilized soil out of turn to useful material penetrated faster into the root crop. Proper care and homemade folk remedies will ensure a healthy harvest for every gardener.

    After planting in open ground, it is better to water the bulbs once a week, but up to five times a month. The crop does not need abundant watering, and excessive amounts of moisture can harm both stems and root crops. If the bulbous stem did not turn yellow immediately, but gradually, problems arose in the root system. Problems in external environment lead to rapid drying of arrows.

    Watering the onion so that its green growth does not turn yellow should be done according to a plan created in advance. The plants themselves are unpretentious and can withstand even low temperatures. The crop is being planted in early spring in open ground or in winter in a greenhouse. Onions are a source of nutrients and vitamins, as well as a natural antioxidant. People say: “If the onion turns yellow immediately after planting, there is no need to expect a harvest.” Watering such bulbs is simply pointless.

    Folk remedies are still used to this day to treat herbs against pests. In cases where only the bulbous stem turned yellow, and the rest seasonal vegetables and the fruits remained healthy, the cause was sought in pests.

    You can make special trenches in the garden bed if there are heavy torrential rains, because rot is the second most common reason for onions turning sharply yellow. There is no need to water these plants additionally. Reasons why the disease spreads to sets, bulbs and feathers:

    • onion fly;
    • excessive watering;
    • small pests;
    • lack of nutrients and nitrogen;
    • rotting of the root crop, which depletes the feather;
    • constant bad weather in summer.

    It is not enough to water the plants; they should be taken care of properly. Watering that is not organized will more likely harm the onion than help. Succulent feathers and bulbs will grow in the garden bed only in cases where the gardener has shown skill and perseverance in caring for all the crops.

    Onion fly

    If your onion arrows have begun to slowly wilt, you can check the green feathers for onion fly larvae. In a garden bed where green and tasty crops are densely planted, breeding pests are quite common. The yellowing effect appears due to a large accumulation of larvae. Timely prevention helps prevent the proliferation of pests that lead to the death of the plant.

    The leaves are an ideal environment for fly larvae; the nutritious stems allow the eggs to be kept alive while they grow. You can plant bulbs of any kind next to carrots, then no flies will become a problem. The smell of carrot tops in the garden drives away all onion pests.

    Actions to save from eggs that cover all onion leaves are as follows:

    • do not plant a crop twice in the same place;
    • do not isolate the bed from other plants;
    • solution helps against yellowing of hydrochloric acid(metronidazole or spraying with ammonia from water);
    • To prevent yellowing, you can wipe the leaves with ordinary concentrated saline solution, if other substances are not at hand.

    Other pest species include onion nematodes, flies and secretive proboscis. The leaves and stems are the first to be affected by insects. Green onion becomes infected from just one larva or healthy individual. Flies are brought from environment or they remain overwintering in the place where the onions were previously planted. From such pests, a yellow tint appears on the central part of the feather, and not on the tip. Sevok is not infected with fly larvae at all.

    Green arrow suffers from yellowing in the first weeks after planting. At this time, sleeping insects appear. Pests begin to actively reproduce from the first days of awakening. Water with salt makes plants unsuitable for onion flies. Get the right solution It will work if you keep the proportion: two parts water and one part salt.

    The secretive proboscis - a pest of greenery

    The pest that causes yellowing, the secretive proboscis, appears on green shoots in early summer. Adults or larvae damage roots and feathers. Insects eat the bulbs and arrows piece by piece. Over time, damaged plants begin to fade, acquiring a characteristic yellowish tint. The color, which indicates a pest attack, is an alarm signal for the gardener. Constant loosening of the soil will help the crop. It is especially important to fluff up the soil after heavy rains. Fertilization of the land occurs once a month, using ash or peat. Dilute the fertilizer with mustard, salt and pepper. From the yellowing of the leaves to the complete destruction of the root crop, no more than 2-3 weeks pass. Delay on the part of humans leads to the destruction of the entire crop.

    Using folk remedies you can get rid of pests in a matter of days. So how to water the onions so that they don’t turn yellow if you don’t want to use chemicals?

    A solution of mustard and ammonia

    To treat plants, tinctures of tobacco, mustard and garlic are used. A small amount of ammonia is added to the prepared mixture. Such solutions are infused for 4 days. If the arrows have already turned yellow and dry (a process that could not be prevented), every day of delay can cost the gardener his harvest. The prepared mixture is brought to a boil and then cooled. This solution is used to treat feathers against nematodes or other pests.

    Lack of nitrogenous substances

    Lack of nitrogenous substances in the soil (in an area with many groundwater) leads to rapid drying of the stems. Different crops suffer from the disease, all nearby greenery also slowly dries out and loses color. Pale white veins appear on succulent leaves, the appearance of which becomes the first alarm signal for the gardener. The edges of the loose leaves dry out and the fruits change shape. The last stage of the disease from a lack of nitrogen is the appearance of spots on the leaves and stems, more like lichen. These symptoms are caused by heavy rains that wash away beneficial substances from the soil.

    It is difficult to get rid of yellowing onions on your own. To do this, you need to fertilize the soil with nitrogenous substances. There is no need to water the crop additionally.

    You also can’t overdo it in this matter. It will not be possible to remove the amount of nitrogen back from the soil. As soon as the onion shoots have turned yellow, the soil around all affected plants is treated with a mixture prepared from:

    • greens (any lush grass);
    • straw or any dried hay;
    • weed seeds;
    • waste from vegetables and fruits.

    All components are thoroughly mixed into a homogeneous mixture. The entire soil is fertilized with a margin of several meters. The mixture is diluted with water. Even rainwater collected during heavy rains is suitable for these purposes. You should not dilute the prepared mixtures with salt; it is better to add more waste from vegetables, fruits or grains to them.

    Rot and heavy rains

    The worm, which eats root crops, appears during periods of heavy rainfall. Watering is temporarily stopped, and the soil is constantly loosened. The top layers of soil serve as drainage. Get rid of it through loosened soil excess moisture much easier. After rainfalls, the soil around the onions is fertilized, restoring the amount of nitrogen in the soil. Otherwise, the bulbs will stop growing, and the growth of feathers will slow down significantly. Rooting of root crops occurs within a few days, and after that the crop can no longer be saved. It is important for the gardener not to miscalculate the timing of the fertilizer, otherwise all the time spent will go down the drain.

    Plants rot from the rhizomes, especially if you water too much and too often. The stems turn yellow when the root crop is completely spoiled. Dry stems indicate damage to the future harvest. There is no point in saving such bulbs, so it is better to immediately dig up all the damaged material.

    Unfavorable environmental conditions

    It is difficult to guess the weather, because dry summer days are replaced by heavy rains. Depending on the region, moisture levels may rise sharply. Even an experienced gardener is unable to predict changes in the external environment.

    Fertilizers, timely watering and leaf treatment protect the bulbs. The stems of the crop are washed at the beginning and end of the season. Before planting seedlings in the spring, the soil is pre-fertilized and saturated with moisture, nutrients and minerals.

    Prevention in the garden

    Preventive measures will help to predict the danger and eliminate it before the entire crop is damaged. Fertilizing the soil should be done before planting nigella or other varieties of onions. As it grows, the upper layers of the soil are fertilized with humus, dry hay and nitrogenous substances.

    The leaching of the nitrogenous layer occurs quite often, and it is in the interests of the gardener to worry about the problem with the soil in advance. Prepared fertilizers will help strengthen the root crops and allow you to harvest good harvest at the end of summer. Onion crops are useful and easy to care for, and planting them should not cause difficulties for humans. Any possible problems can be resolved without any special financial costs.

    Finding a gardener in our latitudes who does not grow onions on his plot is not an easy task. But it’s even more difficult to find that lucky person who has never in his entire career as a homestead farmer asked himself the question why, despite all the weeding, fertilizing and watering, this censored onion turns yellow in the garden, without any twinge of his onion conscience? Agree, this is really very offensive. Especially if this is not the first time something like this has happened. And then gardeners wonder what to water the onions so as not to turn yellow. For those who prefer to see freshly harvested green onions in a delicious summer salad, we have prepared this useful material.

    Onions are perhaps one of the oldest cultivated plants known to our civilization. The first mention of onion cultivation dates back to the 4th millennium BC. It is known for certain that in Ancient Egypt the bow was considered a gift from the gods. In the ancient world, since the time of Hippocrates, onions were valued not only as a vegetable, but also as a medicinal product. In ancient Rome, red onions were part of the mandatory diet of legionnaires, and Emperor Nero ate leeks with olive oil to strengthen his voice (he was a lover of singing). Today, more than 400 varieties of “cultivated” onions are known.

    Healthy onions in the beds should look something like this

    Why onions turn yellow in the garden: five reasons and methods of control

    Before you try it on light clothes onion gurus, we must immediately make a reservation - onions in the garden turn yellow not only because of diseases and other negative impacts, which will be discussed below. In August-September, onion stems begin to wither, for a completely natural reason - the crop is ripe and ready for harvest. In this case, you have nothing to worry about - you did everything right. A fair question is “What to do?” if an onion feather turns yellow at a time when, according to all the laws of the genre, it is supposed to continue to grow and grow. Then the source of the “onion grief” should be sought in five possible directions:

    • insect pests;
    • illness;
    • soil condition;
    • improper care for plants;
    • unfavorable weather conditions.

    Now let's look at these misfortunes in more detail and get acquainted with ways to eliminate them.

    Reason one: pests

    Significant damage to onion plantings can be caused by:

    Onion fly (Delia antiqua)

    These harmful insects, or rather their larvae, are equally dangerous as traditional onions, as well as more “noble” varieties - chives, shallots, leeks, etc. During the flowering of dandelion and lilac (approximately in the second half of May), the female onion fly lays eggs in the soil next to the plant or under the first dry scales and between green onion leaves. After 5-8 days, the larvae burrow into the bulb (mainly from the bottom) and begin to feed intensively. The onions in the garden turn yellow and then die completely. How to save onions from onion flies? To permanently ruin this pest's appetite, we recommend using the following methods.

    In this photo there is an onion fly - malicious pest Luke

    • Plant onions in the soil as early as possible. Then he will have time to gain strength before the flies appear.
    • Sow onions along with carrots. The fly cannot stand the smell of carrots.
    • Use deterrents during summer and egg laying, for example, mix 200 g of wood ash with 1 tsp. tobacco dust and 1 tsp. ground pepper, dust 1 sq.m. with this mixture. planting onions. After the procedure, loosen the soil.
    • Against larvae in the soil for 15 sq.m. you can add 30 g of Bazudin granules mixed with 0.5 liters of sand.
    • Do not plant onions in the same place every year. The onion bed can be used once every four years.
    • At the beginning of summer, flies (if Bazudin was not added to the soil) onion plantings can be treated with Confidor, Leptotsid, Mospilan, Nurell-D.
    • If the larvae have already penetrated the bulb (the feathers wilt, the tips of the leaves turn yellow), then spraying with Creocide PRO will help save the plantings.

    The emergence of onion fly larvae from eggs

    There is another one folk method fight against onion fly– treatment with saline solution (200 grams of salt per 10-liter bucket of water). The effect is enhanced by adding a small amount of ammonia. The first watering is carried out when the length of the feather reaches 8 cm. In this case, you need to try not to get it on the leaves. During the season, 2-3 such procedures may be required, before the summer of the new generation of flies. This method has been tested for years, but it leads to soil salinity, and excess chlorine and sodium inhibit plants. Therefore, it must be used very carefully.

    The development of the larvae lasts about 3 weeks, then they go into the soil to pupate. After a certain time, a new generation appears, and everything starts all over again. The second generation is harmful in mid-to-late July. In the southern regions, the onion fly can produce a third generation. Pupae overwinter at a depth of 4 to 10 cm.

    Onion snail (Ceuthorrhynchus jakovlevi)

    This beetle feeds on onion leaves. Its larvae (yellowish, with a brown head, legless, about 0.7 cm) eat away longitudinal passages in the pulp of the leaves, which are visible through the skin. Of course, onion plantings turn yellow in the beds. To get rid of a secretive proboscis you need to do the following:

    The onion secretive beetle lives throughout Russia

    • thorough cleaning beds after harvest. Unharvested onion remains - perfect place for beetle wintering;
    • deep digging of the soil before the onset of cold weather. The beetle does not tolerate frost;
    • if the pest is small in number, it can be collected. By the way, beetles are very shy; at the slightest touch they fall to the ground;
    • loosening the rows with the addition of repellents (wood ash, ground red and black pepper, mustard powder)
    • during mass dispersal during the growing season, onions can be sprayed with “Karbofos” at the rate of 60 g (1 package) per 10 liters of water. 1 liter of the resulting solution is treated with 10 sq.m. landing After treatment, the feather should not be eaten for some time.

    Larva of a secretive beetle at a crime scene

    Stem (onion) nematode (Ditylenchus dipsaci Kuhn)

    An innocent-looking, barely noticeable thread-like “worm”. Adults and larvae feed on plant sap, as a result of which the onion feathers turn yellow and dry out. The bottom is destroyed, the rudiments begin to grow through the cracks, it seems that the bulb is turning outward. The main danger of these microscopic (1-1.5 mm) pests is that they occupy the soil for decades. Determining the presence of nematodes in non-onion beds is very difficult. However, over the centuries-old history of fighting this pest, very effective methods have been invented and tested. fighting techniques:

    Stem nematode (visible only under a microscope)

    • Do not plant onions in one place; return to their original bed no earlier than after 4 years.
    • Plant only healthy planting material.
    • Before planting, treat onions with hot water (45 degrees) for 6 minutes or with a salt solution (3 tablespoons of salt per 3 liters of water) for 20 minutes.
    • Sow calendula or tagetis (marigolds) between the rows of onions. You can water the onions with marigold tincture.

    Onion (tobacco) thrips (Thrips tabaci Lind)

    A yellowish or brownish insect whose body length is not more than 1 mm. The larvae are wingless, gray-white or greenish-yellow. Thrips damage not only onions, but also garlic, cucumbers, flower crops. They feed on plant sap by sucking it out. The leaves fade, turn yellow, and dry out. Winter in top layer soil, on the remains of vegetation, under onion scales. Females lay brownish small eggs singly in leaf tissue. The larvae hatch after 5 days.

    Onion (tobacco) thrips

    • Crop rotation;
    • Pre-planting 10-minute disinfection of the seeds with hot water (45 ° C) with further immersion in cold water;
    • Spraying the plantings with a solution of “Confidor” (1 ml per 10 liters of water) or “Iskra” (1 tablet per 10 liters of water). Per 100 sq.m. use 10 liters of insecticidal solution.

    Onion moth (Acrolepiopsis assectella)

    Causes enormous damage to onion plantings in dry, warm weather. The leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out from the tops, and longitudinal asymmetrical spots called mines appear on them.

    Onion moth

    The first generation of caterpillars damage in late May - June. Butterflies are small (no more than 0.8 cm, with a wingspan of up to 1.4 cm). Their summers occur in July, exclusively at night. Females lay yellowish eggs, 0.5 mm in size, singly on the soil near plants or at the base of leaves. The emerging caterpillars (yellowish-green in color with brownish warts, about 1 cm long) penetrate the leaves and feed there. In October, butterflies hatch from pupae and overwinter in shelters. In the spring they begin to fly.

    Onion moth caterpillar

    • Crop rotation;
    • Cleaning of plant residues;
    • Digging the soil before frost;
    • Spraying onion moths with Iskra solution (1 tablet per 10 liters of water) during the summer. 1 liter of insecticidal solution is enough for 10 sq.m. planting onions.

    Notes in the margins

    Most effective method fight against harmful insects– this is “war on all fronts.” The fact is that the onion fly, the nematode, and the secretive beetle can calmly dine, so to speak, at the same table. Therefore, we recommend using the above measures in combination. For example, combine non-chemical methods of combating nematodes with measures aimed against onion flies (mulching with ash, pollination with tobacco dust, etc.).

    Reason two: plant diseases

    This name hides several fungal diseases of onions with similar external signs– spot yellowing of onion feathers with the formation of convex pads in May-June, followed by their blackening and complete falling of the leaves.

    Control measures:

    • crop rotation;
    • warming up the planting material before storing it;
    • warming up the onion sets before planting for 12 hours at a temperature of 30-40 degrees;
    • for preventive purposes, planting onions during the period of mass growth can be sprayed with a solution of copper oxychloride (1 tablespoon of the drug per 10 liters of water with the addition of 1 tablespoon of liquid soap). The second spraying is carried out a week after the first with a solution of the drug “Hom”, prepared according to the instructions.

    Bacterial rot of onions

    It is discovered when the bulbs are cut. Between healthy scales a dark layer of softened tissue is clearly visible. When stored, such bulbs rot. The infection is carried by insects (thrips, onion flies, mites, etc.). When planting diseased bulbs, the plants look depressed, the leaves turn yellow, and the flower stalks dry out.

    Manifestations of bacteriosis in an onion bed

    • Pre-plant culling of contaminated material. The neck of the bulbs is cut off by 0.5-1 cm so that all scales are visible.
    • Before planting onion sets or turnips, the soil is treated with the preparation “Hom” (40 g per 10 liters of water). consumption 500 ml of solution per 1 sq.m.

    Almost all varieties and types of onions are susceptible to this fungal disease. Fungi from the genus Fusarium live in the soil and infect the bulb during the growing season at temperatures from + 13° to + 30° Celsius. In diseased plants, the feathers very quickly turn yellow and die.

    This is how unappetizing an onion looks when it gets bottom rot

    Agrotechnical measures to combat bottom rot:

    • Right choice places for onion beds. The site should not be in a low-lying area to avoid flooding during floods and rainstorms.
    • Maintaining crop rotation. The best predecessors for planting onions are cereal grains. If symptoms of the disease are observed on the ridges, the next onion planting in this place should be done no earlier than after 5 years.
    • Planting material(seeds or sets) must be healthy and disinfected. Planting (sowing) onions must be carried out in optimal agrotechnical terms.
    • Use for cultivation only resistant varieties and hybrids of onions.
    • Harvest must be stored in the right conditions air temperature and humidity.

    Notes in the margins

    If you have already started your crusade against onion pests and carried out a set of measures to combat onion fly - we hasten to please you, these measures are an excellent preventive measure against bottom rot. Now your onions have double protection, which means your chances of getting a healthy, full harvest are doubled.

    Reason three: lack of nitrogen in the soil

    Your onions will definitely turn yellow if the soil feeding them is low in nitrogen. In fact, nitrogen deficiency in the soil is the most common and most insidious cause of yellow onion feathers. There is only one method of control here - fertilizing the onion beds with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Organic or organo-mineral fertilizers are perfect for this.

    Not only onions turn yellow from a lack of nitrogen in the soil

    If you prefer organics when choosing fertilizers, then you can use only rotted manure in preparing the beds, and make a fermented infusion for fertilizing. From depositing fresh manure There is a high probability of fungal diseases spreading into the soil.

    Reason four: mistakes when caring for onions

    The most common mistake that can cause onions to turn yellow in the beds is wrong mode glaze. Of course, water care for each of the many varieties of onions has its own subtleties. Therefore we will only touch upon general recommendations– equally suitable for the entire onion family.

    Onion plantation in Valencia. At proper watering the harvest is 8000(!) centners per hectare

    • During the period of rooting and beginning of growth, onions should be watered at least once every three days. Moreover, watering should be plentiful. If the soil on the ridges is mulched, you can water it less often - mulch retains moisture remarkably well.
    • It is advisable to water the onion at the root.
    • The water temperature for irrigation should vary from +18 to +25 degrees Celsius.
    • Optimal time watering - until noon.
    • If the water for irrigation is hard, it should be artificially softened with special additives.

    Notes in the margins

    It is convenient to combine watering onions with fertilizing. To do this, fertilizers are dissolved in water and thus a nutrient solution is obtained. Composition of the solution: for 10 liters of water we take 50-70 grams of ammonium nitrate and 20 grams of superphosphate and the same amount of potassium salt. The first feeding of onions should be done when the feather has grown 3 centimeters from the ground level. The second feeding is done approximately a week after the first. For 1 m² of onion bed, 6 liters of solution are needed. When organizing watering of onions, you should remember the golden rule of the “onion grower”: 4-5 days before harvesting, watering must be stopped, otherwise the bulbs will be tasteless. The last watering of “green” onions is carried out 2 days before harvest.

    Drip irrigation is one of the successful methods of organizing watering

    Reason five: unfavorable weather conditions

    All the skills and tricks of gardeners can be nullified by the whims of Mother Nature. In very dry summers, as well as in excessively whiny weather, the onions will turn yellow in the beds even without the participation of the above factors. There is only one way out of this situation - to act like Michurin. That is, “do not expect favors from Nature.” Natural disasters will avoid your onion beds if they, the beds, are protected by a reliable greenhouse.

    Green onions in a greenhouse are not afraid of heat or rain

    That's all for today. We sincerely hope that our recommendations will help you obtain abundant harvests. Go for it!

    Properly grown healthy green onions will wonderful decoration your table